Five Minute Fix 55 - Brake Booster Check Valve Testing and Replacement 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Welcome! In this Five Minute Fix video I show how to remove, test and replace the check valve of a power brake booster on my 1997 Ford E-150 Econoline Van named Engima. I know that I have a leak in my power brake booster system somewhere, so this is the fast and cheap first step to finding out where the problem is. Ultimately the valve is good, the booster itself is bad.
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WARNING! This video is for entertainment purposes only. Do the actions outlined in this video at home at your own risk.
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4:28 There is a lot of videos on yt about that check valve (non-return valve). A lot of talking but noone explained how to check it in that simple way - using the own mouth.
My valve was faulty - airflow in both directions. So thank you, and greetings from Poland.
This has surprisingly turned out to be one of my most popular videos. Glad that it helped you out.
Your enthusiasm is amazing. Haha
I must sound more excited than I feel. Depending on how tough to battle is to get something done the enthus-o-meter will definitely be all over the place.
Thank you for the video you really helped
Glad this was able to help you out.
Thanks for this video, I have the same problem with my 07 Ranger sport. I am going to check the valve. Thank you so much.
One nice thing about this video is that it's pretty universal for any vehicle that uses vacuum assisted brakes. Glad that it helped you out.
My boyfriend has changed his MC, booster, looked for leaks for months and then we come across this video..... and that's what the issue was... FFS lol 08 ford ranger
Thanks!!
MC and booster? Dang. I'm glad I was able to help solve the problem. I first fought this issue on a '94 Ranger, first truck on this channel.
Thanks for the video!
This video is doing surprisingly well. Who knew that the Internet wanted to see me blow into a check valve? I have also released the companion video to this where I replace the power brake booster.
The check valve should stop flow back towards the brake booster and only flow towards the manifold? Is this correct?
The check valve should allow the booster to fill with vacuum. Should be flow coming from the manifold but not able to go back out to it.
Can this cause the brakes to not "release"? Something caused my brake pedal to be sucked all the way to floor and hold it there. Until i turned truck off, then it released. I was moving very slowly, and barely hit the brakes to gently stop, i get out, get back in amd the pedals all the way down and brakes were locked. Nothing released until i cut truck off. Its weird!
Could be a few different things, depending on your brake setup and age of vehicle. Might be a hydroboost issue, if your truck uses that. Could be an ABS pump going out, if your truck is new enough to have ABS. I would need more information to make a better guess.
Clean and treat the grommet with wd-40.
It works great on rubber. If you are changing an old tire for a used one, treat around and clean the tire that touches metal. You will see the difference. It may not a permanent solution but a good quick fix. Try it on some rubber product
I'll keep that in mind. In this case the booster was definitely bad. I don't have the video up yet, but I've changed it out and it is now performing how I would expect.
I will try this on my e 150. i have no brake pressure, After 3 to 4 fast Pumps i have for a Short time brake pressure when the Motor is of
@@flxrix6913 You mean actual hydraulic braking pressure? The pedal does not stay firm and sinks to the floor with the engine off? If that is happening you probably have a leak in your braking system somewhere and air has gotten into the line. You'll need to find and address your leak before worrying about the brake booster.
Treat your needle nose pliers with WD40.
@@harryholiday5356 I hit them with some Kroil in a later video and it loosened up... for now.
One question: On a 22 year old tundra. Should we change check valve and grommet just as a preventive measure or leave it if it's ok.
If it's not broke don't fix it. I would worry more about the big vacuum line turning into a brittle rock and breaking from time and heat cycles of the engine
@ thanks!
So if you are able to blow towards the brake booster can that cause or become a vacuum leak?
The brake booster valve is a check valve, or one way valve. It should be able to pull vacuum from the vacuum source, but not let it back out. If you blow on the valve from the brake booster side and you feel air going through, the check valve is bad and needs to be replaced.
Will this cause your car to shut off and or not start?
No. This mainly affects how long you have power braking after your engine is turned off. However if your booster is leaking to the outside and this valve fails, your car could start running rough and misfiring as you would have a pretty large vacuum leak.
@MazdaB3K my camaro turns off when at a light. When the booster was changed it turned off some of the codes but some still remain. One of them is a misfire code. Thank you for responding and the video.
@@siddeeqahporter If it's stalling out at a light, check into the chevy version of an idle air control valve. If it's not working right it can cause a stall condition when no throttle is being applied. In that vein, check your Throttle Position Sensor as well. IF you see a check engine light and you are new enough to have OBD2, swing by your local parts store to get the codes read. That will give you a starting point.
@MazdaB3K thank you I will definitely check those two things. Since the booster was changed. It's having a hard time starting. Once driving It's still losing power. I was thinking a vacuum leak.
@@siddeeqahporter Quick thing you can do to test that is disconnect the vacuum line from the booster and check valve and plug it with something then attempt to crank and see what happens.
Damn them chicharraz are out there must be in south Texas
Nope. Swampy north Florida for me. What's a Chicharraz?
I swear those clamps are designed to be just bigger than most plier jaws!
They can be quite irritating. Often it's not the clamp itself, it the access to the clamp. The angle of the dangle you might say.
why not use soapy water spray to detect leak?
When working vacuum leaks, vacuum isn't leaking out, air is leaking in. So you can use soapy bubbles but then you risk soap getting pulled into whatever line is leaking vacuum. In the case of the check valve, you are looking for an internal failure so soapy bubbles wouldn't really be relevant.
Super thankful
Glad this video helped you out.
You’re using circlip pliers. 😂
Is that what 90 degree pliers are called? Never knew their actual name.
Oil your pliers😅
I do, then they rust up again. The perils of not having a closed in shop.