Mahlkonig EK43 Restored: 1 Teardown & Diagnosis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2023
- Deep inside a used Mahlkönig EK43, a heavy-duty coffee grinder in need of repair. Watch while I tear it down and inspect and test every last bit. I'd say it's held up nicely for its age and should be easy to restore, which I will document in the next video.
This video covers the teardown, inspection, testing, fault diagnosis, and to-do list. There's also a follow-up where I repair what's broken, re-assemble it, lubricate it, and then measure, calibrate, and tweak. The complete restoration video is here: • Mahlkonig EK43 Restore...
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#Mahlkonig #coffeegrinder #espresso
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Looking for Part 2, the Restoration? Here you go: th-cam.com/video/jQO-YFeA6eI/w-d-xo.html
The video is amazingly fun and useful!
Great video, can't wait for the next part. The standard of your teardown videos on coffee related machines is just unmatched at the moment
Have worked with these beasts for years (and even owned one), so I’m loving this tear-down series!
Fantastic work. Loving it. Looking forward to seeing more.
I've always hated slotted screws... until I got smarter. Only about 30 years! A boat builder taught me to drive slotted screws properly with the correct fitted blade and with an occasional pause to let the blade fall back into the slot. If you use both hands and concentrate, results are excellent. In the hands of a craftsman or technician, slotted screws are good. Other fasteners were designed for 1-handed operation on assembly lines, where people had less time, caring, and skill. If the design is good, a slot is the simplest and often the best. For example, my dog's collar has a battery that has a push-and-twist type installation. The battery is designed to use a flat part of the collar's closure to twist it. The reason it works is that the slot is wide enough to spread out the force. Interesting video.
This video is amazing. Thank you so much!
such a nice source of knowledge ! i really apreciate this as a machinist :) thanks mate ! excellent job !
Such an informative video, multiple viewing material ✌️
Such a flex of a video! So much attention to detail.
Your channel is like a miracle
Stellar job. I'm very impressed by the attention to detail in your videos. :O
Thank You so much.
Two of my hobbies in one, machining and coffee
That was fun!
RESPECT!
Love it 🍿 👍
Would you ever consider doing tear downs of those really high-end grinders (stuff from Kafatek, Lagom, Weber Workshops, etc.)? Many reviews say they're well-built, precisely machined, etc. I'm now inclined to take that all with a large grain of salt since most probably have not thoroughly examined and considered these machines like you have with the EK43.
I'd LOVE to. I have asked a few for loaners, but no one has taken me up on that. They're really expensive, and on a little channel like this, there really isn't a budget for me to buy them, sadly.
Yes I think you're right that the bleed resistor fooled your multimeter. Multimeters tend to use a timing-based method for measuring capacitance: time how long the capacitor takes to charge to a known voltage. The bleed resistor lets DC current bypass the capacitor entirely, slowing the charge time. An LCR meter (which applies a known frequency AC voltage and measures the phase angle of the AC current) will not be fooled so easily
Great video, I have a couple EKs I picked up and am looking to fix up so this is a great reference. Though I am surprised you can find your parts for so cheap, from looking online it seems each Mahlkonig part I find is $5-20, plus $60 per bearing which would put this far above your estimated $175 Euros, guessing pricing is a bit better in Europe for these.
The bearings are standard, generic parts, should cost between 8 & 12 bucks each. Don't pay Mahkl's prices. Stock EK43 ones are HCH 6004-Z, shielded. I'm going with SKF 6004-RSL, sealed, for the same price. I will explain a lot about bearings & lubricants in part 2. (Don't buy Kluber paste from them either; it's 25-30 per tube normally.)
Hey there, love your serie. Quick question : My ek43s is starting but shutsdown 2 sec after. The motor doesnt really have the time to catchup (like a vehicule not holding it's rpm) Do you thing it's a starting capacitor problem ? thanks =)
Hey, sorry for the comment not related to this video, but i think you could help me. I just bought a Eureka Mignon Perfetto and i'm annoyed with the lack of fine adjustment (i know it's because of the 1 spin espresso to french). Do you think there's something i could do to increase the range? Like some mod to make it able to spin twice or something like that. Thank you for the videos!
IIRC, there is a limiter on the adjustment mechanism just under the top cover. You can unscrew the adjustment knob to get at it. But it has been a while...
Mazzer Robur or SJ Restored please!
Looks like a solid buy for 500 tbh. A bit neglected maybe but that's expected for 500
Do anybody know the motor type and wiring diagram?
Is it possible to connect it frequency inverter?
Hiiii I love this video, waiting for part 2 :D
I wanted to ask you since I'm a baby engineer (software not appliances though 😭) if you can show the mechanism that decides stepsize for the grind adjustment?
I have a vintage model of these (1980s probably, seller wasn't sure) and with it the grind quality is super nice but the steps are huge. I was wondering if I could mod it to save like 4000€ for a new one 😅
I imagine they didn't change much? Mine looks exactly the same only in brass and silver not in black
If your vid is already in production I'd also appreciate any input by text 😭 I'm on a really low budget and this grinder is saving my life currently
Oh and just a small detail for historic facts, the unit I have has the grind adjustment on the backside not front.
I haven't seen one with stepped adjustment.
@@wiredgourmet yeah it's oooold. They have a small rounded piston thats driven by a spring and sort of jumps to the next available hole on the backside of the grind adjustment. I commented on part 2 that I was able to mod it by shielding the hole area
Thanks anyway for the reply and your time and this series :D
Nice video but that winding looks to be perfect ( I wound electric motors for 10 years and work on CNC machines daily)
Running the motor longer than it’s duty cycle will not make it rust that’s just silly.. If the winding was overheated the tie straps burn off first and then the insulation will discolor. No signs of any of that.
It is not necessary to have phase insulation on the start winding, the voltage difference between the running and starting on a single phase motor is simply not enough to warrant it.
Secondly the start capacitor cannot be checked with the bleed resistor, you should remove it and check it.
Thanks for dropping by. Do please email me.
This guy reads Nietzsche.
I'm guessing the discoloration on that motor coil is heat damage - if a roaster was running this thing hard as a bag grinder, that'd do it.
Its insane that junk sold for 500