Great video. At 10:37 you illustrate many screws to hold the flashing down. I know from firsthand experience that that snow and ice can lift that flashing up and cause leaks because I only had six screws holding it down. I am going to drill it the same as you did to repair it.
Thank you so much for making these videos. You answered all of my questions for installation of a metal roof over shingles but more importantly we are getting an estimate for installation so I know what questions I need to ask. If we end up doing this ourselves I'll watch the videos several more times.
Thank you for posting and explaining the metal pipe flashing. I did not think of capillary water movement. And i definatley would have added more screws to the exact spots you said not to
I had a boot vent like this leaking and just adding more screws fixed it. Also they used the full length screws which were excessive. I see you used only need 1inch screws for this purpose and achieves the goal. Key word you stated "this should be mostly a mechanical seal".
Wow thanks for that video, I was about to return my metal flashing and get the rubber boot for my chimney (insulated). A big question tho is that I am wondering if it would be possible to do this WITHOUT taking the 'upper' sheet off. My roof is already tinned so I would punch a hole into the center of the flue (with appropriate gaps), lengthen the cut downwards all the way to the bottom edge of the roof (only like 5ft - the chimney exits near the bottom of the roof pane). This would looks like a long U shaped cut. Then I would frame from accordingly to be able to screw the flashing down at the end. I would then slide the flashing under this top sheet along the u shaped opening (with caulk between the bottom of the flashing and on top of it), then slide another piece of tin from the bottom of the cut up to the flashing (under it) - also with a u shaped slot but inverted. I think it's possible but I would like to hear from you. Thanks a lot - you're clearly the best in the bizz :)
Hi there, I just saw your video now and liked it. Please can you tell me what's the best type of sealant for the flashings per retrofit boots/Whirly bird flashing on metal roofs. Thx much
@@RoofingIntelligenceThx much. Looking to purchase a great (Furnace) Heat Stack Boot kit for my metal roof. Metal will be installed on perlings over roof shingles. Can you direct me to a great kit please? Thx so much.
I have a power mast pole that runs through my roof decking. If I were to reroof with exposed fastener roofing like this video shows, would I be best off to do the second method with two sheets of metal? And use the last boot you showed in the video?
What to do if the vent pipe happens to penetrate right at the edge ridges of two joining sheets? Put a third sheet over the middle, from ridge line down to a bit past the vent?
Just what I was looking for! Metal roof flashing where there is a ridge in the way. Very well explained. What would you do if you need to install screw eyes into the metal roof, will metal roofing caulk be enough around the screw eye that will be used for down guy? Thanks!
I heard that you should put square flashings over pipes diamond-like, with the point facing up. That way there's less xhance for water to in trude, because it will run off instead of sitting on the flat bit. Does it make that mich of a difference, or is it a waste of time?
No, that is wrong. He should have used a high temph rubber boot, it's called a "heat rated" pipe boot and they go over any heater pipes that may have heat moving through them, they get screwed all the way around the boot and sealed with np1 or jst1 caulking
where do u get these things ? can't find em. how about some one showing how to put on ahard one instead of an easy one anyone can do!!!!! I got one that fits ontop of two ribs and one of those ribs is where the two pieces of tin join. explain that one!
I want to metal roof over my existing 3 tab. I have watched every video on flashing. But I can’t find any to deal with ceiling fan vents. I’ve seen videos that they just remove them and let the air vent under the metal panels. I don’t like that idea. Plus I would prefer not to damage my existing roof as it’s only 4 years old.
I was told from the company I bought my roof from, that those silicone heat resistant boots aren't actually approved. I have to use a metal boot for my fire place vent stack.
Great video. At 10:37 you illustrate many screws to hold the flashing down. I know from firsthand experience that that snow and ice can lift that flashing up and cause leaks because I only had six screws holding it down. I am going to drill it the same as you did to repair it.
Best video I’ve seen on metal roofing problem areas so far.
Man this guy is a good roofer,a comment from a roofer too.
Thanks for putting these videos out.
Glad you like them!
@@RoofingIntelligenceis there any way to flash around a led booted vent on a metal roof?
Thank you so much for making these videos. You answered all of my questions for installation of a metal roof over shingles but more importantly we are getting an estimate for installation so I know what questions I need to ask. If we end up doing this ourselves I'll watch the videos several more times.
Thank you for posting and explaining the metal pipe flashing. I did not think of capillary water movement. And i definatley would have added more screws to the exact spots you said not to
11:40 I came here to see how this one was installed. Some people say install it diamond-style (45 degrees off axis) so water runs off better.
I had a boot vent like this leaking and just adding more screws fixed it. Also they used the full length screws which were excessive. I see you used only need 1inch screws for this purpose and achieves the goal. Key word you stated "this should be mostly a mechanical seal".
Very thorough instructions. Thank you
You always have good videos. I learn some good information. Much of it I know already but still enojoy videos. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Thank you. Very good instructions.
Wow thanks for that video, I was about to return my metal flashing and get the rubber boot for my chimney (insulated).
A big question tho is that I am wondering if it would be possible to do this WITHOUT taking the 'upper' sheet off.
My roof is already tinned so I would punch a hole into the center of the flue (with appropriate gaps), lengthen the cut downwards all the way to the bottom edge of the roof (only like 5ft - the chimney exits near the bottom of the roof pane). This would looks like a long U shaped cut.
Then I would frame from accordingly to be able to screw the flashing down at the end.
I would then slide the flashing under this top sheet along the u shaped opening (with caulk between the bottom of the flashing and on top of it), then slide another piece of tin from the bottom of the cut up to the flashing (under it) - also with a u shaped slot but inverted.
I think it's possible but I would like to hear from you.
Thanks a lot - you're clearly the best in the bizz :)
Hi there, I just saw your video now and liked it. Please can you tell me what's the best type of sealant for the flashings per retrofit boots/Whirly bird flashing on metal roofs. Thx much
I'm a big fan of Solar Seal brand.
@@RoofingIntelligenceThx much. Looking to purchase a great (Furnace) Heat Stack Boot kit for my metal roof. Metal will be installed on perlings over roof shingles. Can you direct me to a great kit please? Thx so much.
Thanks, I’ve always wondered if they made a heat resistant boot as those steep metal flashings are a pain for me as a plumber.
They sure do
I have a power mast pole that runs through my roof decking. If I were to reroof with exposed fastener roofing like this video shows, would I be best off to do the second method with two sheets of metal? And use the last boot you showed in the video?
You're 100% correct! You'll need to pieces of metal and the split pipe boot.
What to do if the vent pipe happens to penetrate right at the edge ridges of two joining sheets? Put a third sheet over the middle, from ridge line down to a bit past the vent?
13:22 should help
13:56, you have blocking right against the single wall flu pipe, don't you need air gap?
Thank you,I now know how to install hardware on my pro panel roof, high five,
Just what I was looking for! Metal roof flashing where there is a ridge in the way. Very well explained. What would you do if you need to install screw eyes into the metal roof, will metal roofing caulk be enough around the screw eye that will be used for down guy? Thanks!
Who makes the rubber boots with the soft aluminum edge?
I heard that you should put square flashings over pipes diamond-like, with the point facing up. That way there's less xhance for water to in trude, because it will run off instead of sitting on the flat bit. Does it make that mich of a difference, or is it a waste of time?
I don't think it would be a waste of time because it doesn't take any more time than installing it the other way.
You explain things well.
So the flashing for the hot stove pipe only has one screw and no sealant? Just the tin overtop tp hold it down?
16:30 he discusses sealant for this installation
No, that is wrong. He should have used a high temph rubber boot, it's called a "heat rated" pipe boot and they go over any heater pipes that may have heat moving through them, they get screwed all the way around the boot and sealed with np1 or jst1 caulking
where do u get these things ? can't find em. how about some one showing how to put on ahard one instead of an easy one anyone can do!!!!! I got one that fits ontop of two ribs and one of those ribs is where the two pieces of tin join. explain that one!
Muchas gracias por dar este video se aprende mucho gracias y sigo viviendo sus clases
¡Ningún problema! Me alegro de que hayas disfrutado el vídeo.
I want to metal roof over my existing 3 tab. I have watched every video on flashing. But I can’t find any to deal with ceiling fan vents. I’ve seen videos that they just remove them and let the air vent under the metal panels. I don’t like that idea. Plus I would prefer not to damage my existing roof as it’s only 4 years old.
What if my pipe flashing falls just on a seam for the next panel?
Why didn't you notch out the flashing so it sits flush on the panel?
I was told from the company I bought my roof from, that those silicone heat resistant boots aren't actually approved. I have to use a metal boot for my fire place vent stack.
Brother those are approved for vent pipe that may experience hotter air. NOT for a damn chimney pipe. That's why they told you that!
top class,
Whew, makin me nervous seeing you way up high like that without a harness 😅
If you ever have a problem you have to take out 25 screws and have holes all over your roof.
The 25 screws go into the framing around the pipe, not the original roof.
That flange shouldn't be used on a metal roof, a heat rated or high temp rubber boot should be used, metal flanges are for Shingle roofs only!
In short, if you need to have pipe opening in the tin roof you're screwed 😊
Why is the strapping2x4 and not strapping? Lmao
Just what he had..
No one likes some stupid guitar music in the backgroumd
More screws more holes create more chances for leaking water.