This guy is a genius in my eyes. Great job with the folding. It really helped me with my shed although not as clean as your folds and cuts, it was the solution i. Needed. Thanks
Well , at first I saw how long your presentation was going to be ,and I was going to skip it . But my dad told me to always go with my gut instinct. I'm very happy I watched it till the end . It was very Informative and you didn't cut corners. Thanks
Do you have a video on how to install a flashing at the top fo the sheets when they meet a wall? And how to install apron/Ridge flashing at a 45 degree angle when the sheets meet at external corners of a roof?
In these how to metal roof videos the ribs always magically line up for gable trim and sidewall trim. What happens when this stuff doesn’t line up in the real world. Say screw mounting point lands right on a rib or your building is old and not square. Those are the tricks I’d like to see
You can either add a 3/4” (or whatever your rib height is) wood shim down the entire rake, or rip the first panel to make sure you end up with ribs on both ends.
I usually order my trim after the roof panels are up. You can custom size to ensure it does not lay on a rib. Add or reduce whatever dimension you need.
@@chazevans2663 This is what I did. I had scrap 3/4" treated plywood. Ripped a couple strips on my table saw and that did the trick. The Excellent Laborer channel also shows using a square and marking the fascia where the trim should be. Technically you don't need anything to support it underneath as long as it's screwed down in the right spot. But I felt better using the 3/4 strips.
Very informative, though I would have liked to see close-up shots of the ends to understand more on how the corners should look after installing. It was shown just not close enough for a novice as myself.
Good video explanation. I wasn't distracted by the gauges in the ears or the full sleeve tattoos on a grown man although it did take my attention off of the "big boy" pants. For real?
Do you have a video for a scenario where you need to cut a standing seam roof panel to fill in a few inches on the edge? My gable trim doesn’t quite overlap at the edge so I have to cut a small piece at the edge?
Thanks for the video Mike. How do you trim a rake that angles up to the ridge? Meaning the ridge is longer than the eaves below, so when the trim is applied the butyl tape can not be applied because the peaks and valleys of the metal roofing panels are leaving 3/4" gaps between the rake trim and the valley of the roofing panel itself.
Sure would be nice if you could show where these pieces are relative to an actual roof application. You understand what your talking about because you have a picture in your head. But I certainly have no idea what the peak cap is relative to the end cap cuts? To match these two? Pictures of finished product so we have an idea of rekavance
What is this sealing tape for? I live in an area that receives over 12ft of rain per year. Sometimes it's torrential (we've had 2ft in 12 hrs) and never ever use this tape, and never ever have a leak. If it's flashed properly, you don't need to waste your time doing this. On the ridge, turn up the pans 60 + degrees and the ridge cap should have ave the break into the pan like his barge/facia flashing. Scribe this to the profile and it weather proof. If you have gutters, 3 inch over hang is 1 inch too much. You'll understand if you want to clean your gutters.
The caulking on closures seem messy on a job outside in the real world. Those things blow all over the pace. I would recommend getting them with the glue already on them. Just peel the tape off and stick it to the metal. Nice assembly tho
Can you give me the dimensions of the gable trims installed? Trying to get both of these pieces fabricated by my metal supplier and they need the measurements.
Why do the videos I find always show the end of the roof the has the side of the panel with the extra "foot" tab along the edge that can be screwed down, but none show the end of the roof that has the shorter overlap edge and how to fasten it or trim it if there is too much overhang over the end of the roof?
Thanks for taking the time to put this on the tube and share knowledge! Sharp looking trim detail my dude! Be sure to go check out Kyle over at RR Buildings. He’s got some more great trim work details!
I always trace the facia line as well and fold and close them then rivet them shut as well looks like shit just leaving it square at the bottom like that and it seals up any spots for pests. And just looks more professional.
About to attempt a small first metal roof and absorbing information and have a question! Always remove the burrs from drilling, they will cause rust stains I hear this over and over but never in any video have I heard anyone paint the ends of flashing or trim? wont the exposed metal caused by trimming rust and do the same thing????
Galvalume is sort of self healing when cut correctly such as the shear of a roll forming machine. As long as you use the correct tools to cut the trim you should be fine. If you would like to put touch up paint on the exposed ends of the trim, it would not be a bad idea. Just buy the same touch up paint as the paint system of the trim. Whomever sold you the material will be able to supply touch up paint.
I guess I really don’t understand the reason behind the tape and the foam for leaks. After all you’re putting it on top of the metal roof that already shouldn’t leak right? I’m definitely not saying anybody’s wrong here I just don’t understand it
Foam goes under the ridge cap. It's a real dense foam so driving rain does not get under and inside the ridge. Also keeps bugs and spiders out. That's what it's for
Every time insee something like this it pisses me off on how badly my roofer fucked me. No foam enclosures whatsoever, no butyle tape at all, even the trim peices are just 90 angles that are screwed on. I gotta redo all this
Not necessary. This is his design spec, its not a standard. Foam enclosures are a waste. I would prefer Z clips and reciever on the cap to hold against the Z. You will never blow out Z but that neoprene will. SMACNA has better solutions.
Neoprene in waterblock caulk? Oh, boy, no thanks. What happens when wind-driven rain stretches the waterblock? Your butt ain't going up there to chase the leak.
Very much appreciate the slower speed of your instructions. Clear and precise detailed instructions. You are worth your weight in gold. Many Thanks
This guy is a genius in my eyes. Great job with the folding. It really helped me with my shed although not as clean as your folds and cuts, it was the solution i. Needed. Thanks
He's no genius but he knows what's up
genius? what
Great video! As a roofer I’m impressed on how much knowledge you and your team have!
Great videos
Well , at first I saw how long your presentation was going to be ,and I was going to skip it . But my dad told me to always go with my gut instinct. I'm very happy I watched it till the end . It was very Informative and you didn't cut corners. Thanks
Do you have a video on how to install a flashing at the top fo the sheets when they meet a wall?
And how to install apron/Ridge flashing at a 45 degree angle when the sheets meet at external corners of a roof?
In these how to metal roof videos the ribs always magically line up for gable trim and sidewall trim. What happens when this stuff doesn’t line up in the real world. Say screw mounting point lands right on a rib or your building is old and not square. Those are the tricks I’d like to see
You can either add a 3/4” (or whatever your rib height is) wood shim down the entire rake, or rip the first panel to make sure you end up with ribs on both ends.
I usually order my trim after the roof panels are up. You can custom size to ensure it does not lay on a rib. Add or reduce whatever dimension you need.
He didn’t think about that
@@chazevans2663 This is what I did. I had scrap 3/4" treated plywood. Ripped a couple strips on my table saw and that did the trick. The Excellent Laborer channel also shows using a square and marking the fascia where the trim should be. Technically you don't need anything to support it underneath as long as it's screwed down in the right spot. But I felt better using the 3/4 strips.
You can get wider rake trim. I like to lay out 3' for standarf panels to see where I should start to end well.
Salute, to you Mike, great work with the snips. I learned from watching what you can do.
Sharp and Smooth presentation. TY
Very informative, though I would have liked to see close-up shots of the ends to understand more on how the corners should look after installing. It was shown just not close enough for a novice as myself.
This answered every single question I had.
Same here
Real nice keep more videos coming 👍
this was the best explanation for this I have seen. Thank you
Great work. I thought you'd leave room for air circulation therefore no end foam?
Reminds me of some roofing I did a couple years ago. Lol nice work.
Wow, this was super helpful. I wish I had found this when I was building my shed.
Good video explanation. I wasn't distracted by the gauges in the ears or the full sleeve tattoos on a grown man although it did take my attention off of the "big boy" pants. For real?
Do you have a video for a scenario where you need to cut a standing seam roof panel to fill in a few inches on the edge? My gable trim doesn’t quite overlap at the edge so I have to cut a small piece at the edge?
Thanks for the video Mike. How do you trim a rake that angles up to the ridge? Meaning the ridge is longer than the eaves below, so when the trim is applied the butyl tape can not be applied because the peaks and valleys of the metal roofing panels are leaving 3/4" gaps between the rake trim and the valley of the roofing panel itself.
excellent presentation. Well done.
Sure would be nice if you could show where these pieces are relative to an actual roof application. You understand what your talking about because you have a picture in your head. But I certainly have no idea what the peak cap is relative to the end cap cuts? To match these two? Pictures of finished product so we have an idea of rekavance
What is this sealing tape for? I live in an area that receives over 12ft of rain per year. Sometimes it's torrential (we've had 2ft in 12 hrs) and never ever use this tape, and never ever have a leak. If it's flashed properly, you don't need to waste your time doing this.
On the ridge, turn up the pans 60 + degrees and the ridge cap should have ave the break into the pan like his barge/facia flashing. Scribe this to the profile and it weather proof.
If you have gutters, 3 inch over hang is 1 inch too much. You'll understand if you want to clean your gutters.
Awesome video.
The caulking on closures seem messy on a job outside in the real world. Those things blow all over the pace. I would recommend getting them with the glue already on them. Just peel the tape off and stick it to the metal. Nice assembly tho
One question I have is can you use caulk instead of Butyl tape?
Acrylic chaulk would work. But, spend the money for a good product with at least 30-40 year expectation.
At 4:55, he says the panels overhang the eave 3" and then at 8:50, he says 4 1/2". Am I missing something??
Excellent job sir
How do you do it with a gable roof transition??
Good job bro.
Can you give me the dimensions of the gable trims installed? Trying to get both of these pieces fabricated by my metal supplier and they need the measurements.
What can you do to bring rake trim and drip edge to meet in a valley?
Why do the videos I find always show the end of the roof the has the side of the panel with the extra "foot" tab along the edge that can be screwed down, but none show the end of the roof that has the shorter overlap edge and how to fasten it or trim it if there is too much overhang over the end of the roof?
It's strange that in the U.S. you screw into the pan, in Australia we screw through the ribs.
On these panels you would also screw through the ribs using longer screws, but only on the overlap between each adjoining panel.
Thanks for taking the time to put this on the tube and share knowledge! Sharp looking trim detail my dude! Be sure to go check out Kyle over at RR Buildings. He’s got some more great trim work details!
what sealant are you using?
We use Nova-Flex. You can see it here on our website: www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/novaflex-metal-roof-sealant
Nice
I always trace the facia line as well and fold and close them then rivet them shut as well looks like shit just leaving it square at the bottom like that and it seals up any spots for pests. And just looks more professional.
About to attempt a small first metal roof and absorbing information and have a question! Always remove the burrs from drilling, they will cause rust stains I hear this over and over but never in any video have I heard anyone paint the ends of flashing or trim? wont the exposed metal caused by trimming rust and do the same thing????
Galvalume is sort of self healing when cut correctly such as the shear of a roll forming machine. As long as you use the correct tools to cut the trim you should be fine. If you would like to put touch up paint on the exposed ends of the trim, it would not be a bad idea. Just buy the same touch up paint as the paint system of the trim. Whomever sold you the material will be able to supply touch up paint.
Your waterstaining comes from using incompatible fastener types. Ionic transfer between unlike metals.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
So easy to do…from the ground…this is done on a roof in the real world 😂 and it is super slippery…easy installation 😂
Yeah and I've never seen ridge cap like that, that is not normal ridge cap.
Show us hero
You're saying that is Ridge Cap? I've never seen Ridge Cap that looks like that.
I think he slipped up there. Think he meant peak gable/cap. Like a shed cap with a tongue
@@Malcador-TWOM Well I've never heard of that. Ridge Cap looks nothing like the second piece he put on.
@@Malcador-TWOM I know what gable trim is, the second piece wasn't gable trim or ridge cap. Oh well.
@@jonathan3982 Its a common term for cap on the peak in the midwestern states. Ridge is usually up a hip.
I guess I really don’t understand the reason behind the tape and the foam for leaks. After all you’re putting it on top of the metal roof that already shouldn’t leak right?
I’m definitely not saying anybody’s wrong here I just don’t understand it
Foam goes under the ridge cap. It's a real dense foam so driving rain does not get under and inside the ridge. Also keeps bugs and spiders out. That's what it's for
Dude, hide your fasteners. Cleat your rake. Leave the drip edge open hem and clip it to a cleat.
Every time insee something like this it pisses me off on how badly my roofer fucked me. No foam enclosures whatsoever, no butyle tape at all, even the trim peices are just 90 angles that are screwed on. I gotta redo all this
Not necessary. This is his design spec, its not a standard. Foam enclosures are a waste. I would prefer Z clips and reciever on the cap to hold against the Z. You will never blow out Z but that neoprene will. SMACNA has better solutions.
Holy confusing for anybody who doesn't already semi know what they're doing and watching this for a quick review.
I had to leave the video due to the heavy breathing.
its position of the mic, i get the same thing on that spot and I am 6'3 - 280
Does it remind you of your own breathing when you’re straining a dingleberry? 😉
that foam wont last- at least not as long as the metal---- get wet and straining out dirt... no?
TAb
I cant breathe
Neoprene in waterblock caulk? Oh, boy, no thanks. What happens when wind-driven rain stretches the waterblock? Your butt ain't going up there to chase the leak.
eat more fruit Mike, nice video.
This is totally wrong the screws don’t go on the water run it goes on the high ribs . His way will leak in a few years.
That is just wrong advice. Your suggestion is looking for wind uplift. Find a new hobby, dippy.
What in the HELL i in your ears BYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE I will go elsewhere
Drink a diet water please 🙏 🤣😂😂😆😅🤣🤣
jerk