My input: I am over 70 yrs old and have been shooting since I was 5. Raised in a family of veterans, they taught me how to shoot, firearm safety and how to care for a firearm. Every time I finish range time, I use a small fine brush to clean the action, pull a patch of solvent down the bore followed by dry patches until clean then a lightly oiled patch down the bore and call it good. Once a year I dismount the action for a thorough cleaning, lightly oil where needed and put firearm back in storage. This has worked for me for decades. Reliable action, clean bore and no rust. Thank you for sharing this video.
The USMC taught us that when you use it, you clean it. You take care of your rifle and it will take care of you. I could give you some bathroom analogies, but I'll keep it clean.
I’m one of those weirdos that actually really enjoys cleaning my guns. It’s sort of cathartic for me. Very stress purging. I’ll grab a good strong cup of coffee. Put on some music that I like and clean and lube away. I like to make absolute sure that my EDC especially is always clean, lubed and in top operational condition at all times. Even if I haven’t fired my EDC in a month, I’ll field strip it, wipe it down clean and dry, run the snake through the barrel a few times, inspect everything including the optic then re-lube the gun. Why do I do that? Because I’m a weirdo. 🤷🏼♂️
between the fudd''s, the range "experts" and those who say I'm a gun guy...thank you for this...just straight to the point and when I need a major cleaning i'll take it to Viktor's
Great information presented well, thank you! The only caution I would add is when using gun scrubber type sprays is that like you said, it removes all oil and other lubricants leaving a very clean and dry surface that is very prone to rusting if not promptly re-oiled. Using a brake or carburetor cleaner will do the same thing. This of course applies to the steel parts only. Again, use with caution! Follow the owner's manual when it comes to cleaning and lubricating. One experience - A friend cleaned his Remington 1100 Skeet gun with a gun scrubber spray because someone told him the carbon and plastic wad build-up would just wash away. They were correct, but he neglected to re-oil it. When he opened his gun case a few days later, his M1100 was all orange with flash rust inside and out. Fortunately, we were able to clean it up enough to be functional, but it never looked the same. Thanks again for posting. Cheers!
I forgot to mention in my previous comment. Clenzoil for the win! I love that stuff. My grandfather used that in all his rifles, shotguns and his pistol. I remember seeing it in on his shelf in the garage where he did his cleaning. It came in a glass jar back then. When I started shooting a lot I used Hoppes. Used it for years and it worked of course. There are lots of good lives out there. But I saw a video from a guys channel called Project Farm where he tested lots of different CLP’s. (Very cool channel) And Clenzoil was the absolute best for lubricity. I’m in Florida so I don’t worry about extreme cold weather performance. Lubricity is what I want and Clenzoil is slicker than snot on a doorknob. Really treats the metal over a short time.
My ruger 1022 is 40 years old and honestly i havent cleaned it in at least 35 years lol. She still runs like a champ. On the flip my competition pistols and my edc get cleaned every time they’re used.
More oils better than none, I can't keep track of how many bone-dry guns I've run into over the years, but like the man says no need to overdo it. Thanks Kim you and your husbands' videos are always very informative.
You don't want enough oil where it can get past the primer seat through the firing pin hole.. Had a pistol that got a bit over lubed and it contaminated the chambered round that was in there for months muzzle down.. Good thing it was just a shot at a groundhog that went click-click-click before I worked the slide and put a fresher round in that went bang.. So shiny wiped with an oiled cloth but not dripping except for an AR that is hot and in use as the extra oil helps move carbon in the bolt off the surfaces..
@@geaugafirearmsacademyDude......please. You're taking the time to post that much of a reply. Go on a little farther and speak to the boobs you brought to the party. You owe that to the people. You could have just created a video about guns, but you got cold feet and feared that it wouldn't get views, so you brought out the tits. Speak to that, please. I want to hear you say something to the matter at hand. A gun video should sell itself.
I work in a gun store and I tell all first time owners to read the manual!! it will tell you if you need to clean it before you first shoot it and how to field strip and where the oil needs to go, also look up some videos on how to field strip and clean it. we recommend the Slip 2000 brand of oil and cleaners. the oil is a really good cleaner and lubricant, a little bit of it will go a long way. the 725 is a good degreaser, and the carbon killer is really good at breaking up built up carbon and both of them are water soluble so you can just run the parts under tap water to rinse them off, dry them, and apply the oil. the carbon killer is not good to get onto polymer parts though. I've also used the 725 on some long guns with surface rust to clean them back up, usually I'll use a green scotch brite pad as well. it will remove the rust but it can also remove the finish, I'm not sure if its the 725, the scotch brite, or a combo of both but it does leave a nice patina and the barrel can always be reblued. I have one customer that actually soaks his firearms in some kind of synthetic oil for like 24 hours. DONT DO THIS!!!!!!! his guns are always greasy and you can smell the oil on them. he did this with a brand new FN FiveseveN and brought it back up because it wouldn't fire, the striker go fouled up and wouldn't work right because of the oil in there.
I couldn't agree more. Not only do I clean a new firearm before I shoot it, I'll rack it 1000 times then clean it. You'll see where the cerakote is coming off. It'll help you really see where the oil needs to go. Never had any issues with new firearms having failures when doing this.
Retired professional gunsmith. 75% of "repairs" in my shop were due to poor maintenance or none at all. I have zero respect for the individual who shoots his weapons until they quit. That is flat out foolish. Good call on Clenzoil! Been using it for decades and highly recommend it over all other products!👍
@El_Peto Will need alot more info. Is it frozen in place? Moves, but does not disengage the cylinder? Is the ejector rod loose (i.e. unscrewed?) Forward cylinder locking latch stuck or movable? There are many different things that cause issues that you mentioned. If you are unsure about it, by all means take it to a good gunsmith to analyze and effect the repairs need. I've had customers in the past that frankly didn't know what they were doing and caused more damage than good.
@El_Peto I don't recommend working on a loaded weapon. However, you might be able to slip a small thin bladed flat screwdriver between the tip of the stud of the front ejector rod stud. Gently try to press in stud in between the frame mounted stud and the ejector rod's tip. Don't force it, but if you can get the ejector rod's tip to clear the springed stud, you have a chance to push the cylinder from the top near the upper frame to open the action. Pressing from the lower part of the cylinder will be fighting the bolt (cylinder stop) in the frame. DO NOT FORCE IT. If this fails to press the spring mounted stud enough to free the cylinder, STOP RIGHT THERE! The object is to allow the spring mounted stud to receed enough to allow the ejector rod's end to slip past the stud. If not, stop and find a gunsmith to resolve this. Never, under any circumstance force any parts. The procedures to resolve this is beyond the average gun owner's skills and tools.
@El_Peto Good luck with this issue. I suspect that the ejector rod has loosened by the description of you weapon. This is a common occurrence. However, not physically being able to inspect your weapon, I'm speculating from your description alone. There are other factors that can be found by complete inspection. Situations vary.😏
@El_Peto That’s what I suspected. Most will freeze up with gummed up old oil and crud. Use a strong solvent dripped into the lug. Run several drops about every half hour. The idea is to desolve as much gummed material as possible. If compressed air is available, blast into the lug after solvent has broken up the crud. Chances are the coil spring in the lug is rusted. You've got a 50/50 chance of it working with a good oil, but replacement would be the first option. Good luck, and glad I was of help.
I usually just try to keep the barrels (specifically the chamber) and extractor clean on my pistols. I really don't care if the frame is dirty, but if I take a gun apart for other reasons then I'll go ahead and wipe it down. Great video!
New gun owner here researching self-education on firearm maintenance. Much thanks for such great information - this really helps, but in hindsight after watching this video I think I don't need to clean my firearm at all & may just be fine with a 2x3 vinyl sticker of "Viktor" applied to my front door!
I have a Rugar 10/22 that's about 35 years old. I've shot. I don't know many rounds through it. 5000 maybe. 1000's anyway. Note that only CCI ammo has been used. I cleaned it for the first time a couple of years ago. Honestly, I could have not bothered. The gun was still amazingly clean. I attribute that to the CCI ammo. Just my experience.
Excellent video. Although common sense already told me all of that. That’s why when I first got my firearms I was reading the book that came with it and watching tutorial videos. I clean after almost every usage because I want to make sure it’s always in proper working order because we are always behind the 8 ball in a situation where it would have to get used. Why? Because the bad guy sets the time and place and you will most likely know only at the last second.
When I buy a new gun the first thing I do is get out the owners manual and field strip it. I'll use some Hoppe's 9 solvent to clean it, then a little bit of Lucas gun oil on the moving parts. I clean my guns after every use. I'll field strip it, concentrating on the barrel. I'll pull a bore snake through it and just some light cleaning of any powder residue. I never had any issues using that method.
Good info for new gun owners. Had to give a neighbor a quick class on cleaners and lubes in the Walmart recently, as he hasn't been doing any cleaning.
Great info ! Keep it up! I have had work done on my guns Darrell has been awesome on stipple work and adding his special paint ideas to my Sig 365🍻‼️
3 หลายเดือนก่อน +2
For 40 years of owning a black powder replica I have used Murphy's oil soap and hot water to clean with then a wipe down and swabbing with a gun oil or automatic transmission fluid.. I have also used gum-out carb cleaner, #9 and ATF on all metal components of smokeless powder cartridge guns.. For long term storage the wax based spray in a can does a great job at pickling a gun without turning it into a gummy mess like grandpas cosmoline.. I have always gone with the quick field strip and wipe down with a lightly oiled cloth and a quick bore brushing either dry or the wet patch then dry patch depending on the ammo used.. Very rarely should you need to do a deeper cleaning except with wax lubed .22 ammo because that stuff gums up extractors, ejectors, slides, and even trigger mechanisms as bad as cosmoline..
Interesting...my uncle who was an avid black powder enthusiast gave me this recipe when I was young: 1 part 70% rubbing alcohol 1 part Murphy's Wood oil 1 part household ammonia 1 part 5% hydrogen peroxide This mix works great on all firearms. The ammonia neutralizes any chloride residues from corrosive primers, the peroxide really helps get into hard to access areas and bubbles the funk out.
I field strip and clean after every range trip. I usually shoot 200-300 rounds a trip. I enjoy keeping it clean since it is my EDC. Just this week I removed the striker fire pin and cleaned it after having the pistol for about 4-5 years.
That's a lot of maintenance for a low round count. I usually clean my glocks every 1000 rounds. I just wipe and lube. You don't need to field strip everything.
Because carbon buildup/fouling doesn't affect the reliability of most modern handguns. There are some exceptions with finicky 2011s and such, but if you're just carrying/using a striker fired pistol, you do not need to clean it. That being said, I still clean/oil my carry gun somewhat regularly. I do not clean my training guns anymore though as it's generally a waste of time and their reliability has not been affected.
many years ago, 15 maybe, I used a shotgun scrubber spray to clean my new SA SD 9mm and it took the finish off the slide. SA warranty let me send it in and they recoated it for free. I don’t know if it was flawed manufacturing or what, but I stopped using gun scrubber.
Growing up 22 rifles were clean once a year as they were used for squirrels, woodchucks etc. My carry gun is another story…..after a range session, strip down and cleaned. Every two weeks a wipe down using CLP to get what ever holster crud is on it off.
Noted nothing was mentioned about corrosive ammo, yes besides corrosive binary primers, some propellants like Pyrodex and Triple 7 contain perchlorate which burns to potassium chloride on ignition. These residues, especially when its humid, the corrosion can be quite fast and severe. All steel surfaces exposed to propellant gases must be neutralized with a water ammonia base solvent. Being as lots of shooters and reloaders are contending with supply shortages, corrosive ammo is making a re-surgence as it is usually cheaper..so thought this should be mentioned. Pay particular attention with gas operated weapons to the gas tube, port and block interior surfaces.
Routine I used for about 15 years of competition shooting and never had a problem; Remove the wood grips, put the weapon in a bucket of coal oil let it set a while then blow it out with the air hose.
I clean after I shoot. If you want consistency than all the factors that you can control need to be consistent. That’s how I look at it. Only exception is 22lr that shoots better with some fouling.
I usually clean my gun after getting home from shooting but no later than the next day after shooting. I normally use Lucas CLP because it’s easy to find in large quantities but was there a particular product you’d recommend?
I am a Veteran from Ice Cold and dark Norway. A Hammer is the best I have hear for a long time. To much Oil is not to good in the Cold we have here now.
The military had us clean our weapons after every use I’ve held true to that this day My M-16 was the cleanest in the armory and my weapons at home are just as clean and ready.
My rule of thumb when it comes to gun cleaning is to do it literally every time I shoot (maybe 1-2 days later if I can't do right away) - never had a malfunction gun. Also, to me, the cleaning process is therapeutical. Once you get the hang of it, it's not that complicated at all.
You forgot to say; "Don't use WD-40 unless you drowned your gun to get water out". WD-40 dries out, and washes ALL the oil/grease out of the gun. It's not a lubricant, it's "Wster Dispersant 40". While formula has changed since the original, it still dries up and there's little or no lubricant left. Washing your gun out with metal guns is okay, but plastic and other parts might not like it. Go with a gun oil for the final lubrication after the cleaning is done.
Also...ultrasonic cleaners are your friend. Just make sure not to use too harsh of a cleaner in them. And don't make the mistake of leaving water, cleaning fluid, or dirt residue, inside the ultrasonic cleaner tank for extended periods of time. It WILL eat through the tank, creating various pinhole leaks and basically destroy the ultrasonic cleaner. Make sure to drain and clean the tank in between uses.
not to mention that plastic friendly non-chlorinated brake cleaner works awesome to rinse out the crud and prep for fresh lube. and cheaper than most gun sprays
When there IS a manual that is. I don't have big collection, but I've only purchased 2 of them new, so they are the ones that came with manuals. The rest were inherited and purchased used without manuals. I do wish they would have given a general reference about where and how much to lube for those without manuals. But I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so I have a pretty good idea what parts move against each other and where to lube, and the references in the manuals that I do have also apply to my other similar guns.
I kept hearing once a year but no one's said that in quite a while. Since I'm only making one trip to a range per year (time constraints and distance are a factor) it's fair to quickly shove a Hoppes 9 coated cotton down a few barrels for ten seconds and do it again the next year. 1911 pistols are the worst. I can do my Desert Eagle blindfolded and upside down but not a 1911. They're finnicky. Even my local gunsmiths are hesitant to strip them down and reassemble. It's not hard, but it's just whenever the pieces are together they just don't want to snap in place as they were designed to. It's always something. >_
Same thing if you ask me. I’d only use either on an AR bolt, and no where near plastic or wood that you don’t want destroyed. There’s too many superior gun cleaners out there, Weaponshield, Slip 2000, Hoppe’s, CLP, etc. I’ll also never use anything that sprays on again as I want the cleaner on the patch or gun part, not oversprayed everywhere.
I haven't found that cleaning improves reliability in modern handguns, and I think most competitive shooters going through high round counts would agree with me. That being said, I do keep my carry gun clean(ish) and oiled just for emotional reassurance. AR platforms do benefit from having the bolt wiped off with an oiled rag every session, though.
I was told by armorers that (after cleaning) I should be careful not to get MUCH oil on the firing pin/magazine/barrel. As this could cause Ammo (not mil spec) to not fire due to contamination. True??
The original formula of Gun Scrubber back in the 1980’s and ‘90’s was much harsher than the stuff they’re selling now, and had a substance that was later banned. I think I’ll equate the effect of that Gun Scrubber to brake cleaner. I used to use it all the time, and in addition to overspray ruining a set of Pachmayer presentation grips, I made the mistake of spraying some into the action of a Remington 870 Wingmaster with some beautiful old wood. The overspray settled on the poly finished stock and destroyed the finish, making it look like acid had been used. Sorry, I don’t know of anyone who completely removes their stock and forend to clean a shotgun, but that’s what you had to do with any gun you used it on, whether synthetic or wood stock. Yeah, your guns were “clean” but the stuff was incredibly caustic. I heard they “upgraded” it years later, but I threw out what I had and never went back. I don’t use anything but CLP or equivalent cleaners now.
A lot of times I'll do a mag dump walking from the garage to the house at night. I always keep metal targets set up around the yard, but even one mag shot through gun I clean it next day. Only takes a few min. to clean a pistol is you do it often.
I only have rifles as I'm in Chinada right now. Will change that if we get our planned change of government. I clean my rifles after each use. I don't go nuts. The barrel gets the most attention. Don't worry about copper fouling unless it's bad. We need some of that in budget barrels. The rest of a semi auto gets wiped down, lubed, wiped dry and reassembled. Bolt rifles are wiped down and are easy to clean. G96 cleaner is the easiest for inside the bolt that you don't want to disassemble since we are not gunsmiths. That is unless you have and SKS and the full tear down is easy! :)
My input: I am over 70 yrs old and have been shooting since I was 5. Raised in a family of veterans, they taught me how to shoot, firearm safety and how to care for a firearm. Every time I finish range time, I use a small fine brush to clean the action, pull a patch of solvent down the bore followed by dry patches until clean then a lightly oiled patch down the bore and call it good. Once a year I dismount the action for a thorough cleaning, lightly oil where needed and put firearm back in storage. This has worked for me for decades. Reliable action, clean bore and no rust. Thank you for sharing this video.
I want to thank Kim for keeping us abreast of proper gun maintenance. I’ve never paid as close attention to a gun maintenance video as I did this one.
Yeah, I caught that.
100% in agreement.
@@francislemon7 yes
Yep!
Nice set of Guns !!
You are funny 😁
The look like twin 44 s DD.
Chesticles to beat the sensors.
Should be cleaned after each use.
The USMC taught us that when you use it, you clean it. You take care of your rifle and it will take care of you. I could give you some bathroom analogies, but I'll keep it clean.
Yup, and still use CLP.
Seabee here learned from Usmc as well
This is my rifle. There are many like it but this one is mine!
In the navy we just swapped rifle for swab or mop!😅
I’m one of those weirdos that actually really enjoys cleaning my guns. It’s sort of cathartic for me. Very stress purging. I’ll grab a good strong cup of coffee. Put on some music that I like and clean and lube away. I like to make absolute sure that my EDC especially is always clean, lubed and in top operational condition at all times. Even if I haven’t fired my EDC in a month, I’ll field strip it, wipe it down clean and dry, run the snake through the barrel a few times, inspect everything including the optic then re-lube the gun. Why do I do that? Because I’m a weirdo. 🤷🏼♂️
Same.
I love cleaning my pistol- full detail strip, pile of parts, enjoy the hell of it.
That's a good habit! Thanks for watching
Your not alone...
How it should be
On a side note…Victor, it’s ok to blink.
😂 thanks for watching
@@geaugafirearmsacademy Not only do your firearms need lubrication, but your eyes too! 😂
I wouldn't blink either. With her sitting that close
Self lubricating there 😮😮😮
You mean Darrell? Who's victor? The shops called Victor's Legacy
Darrell and the team at Viktor's Legacy ROCK!!!
between the fudd''s, the range "experts" and those who say I'm a gun guy...thank you for this...just straight to the point and when I need a major cleaning i'll take it to Viktor's
Thank you! 😊
Great information presented well, thank you! The only caution I would add is when using gun scrubber type sprays is that like you said, it removes all oil and other lubricants leaving a very clean and dry surface that is very prone to rusting if not promptly re-oiled. Using a brake or carburetor cleaner will do the same thing. This of course applies to the steel parts only. Again, use with caution! Follow the owner's manual when it comes to cleaning and lubricating.
One experience - A friend cleaned his Remington 1100 Skeet gun with a gun scrubber spray because someone told him the carbon and plastic wad build-up would just wash away. They were correct, but he neglected to re-oil it. When he opened his gun case a few days later, his M1100 was all orange with flash rust inside and out. Fortunately, we were able to clean it up enough to be functional, but it never looked the same.
Thanks again for posting. Cheers!
Great point! Thanks for watching and commenting
2:14 as soon as as I saw her I knew where all the oil belongs and where to put it 😅
Trying to watch a gun maintenence video but can't stop thinking about motorboating
Grow up. I thought about that first! Lol
Thanks for watching
It’s for the views haha. The tame OF
Bwahahaha
2:13 where do i put da oil? 😏
Excellent info! Well done as always, Kim. Cheers!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it
I forgot to mention in my previous comment. Clenzoil for the win! I love that stuff. My grandfather used that in all his rifles, shotguns and his pistol. I remember seeing it in on his shelf in the garage where he did his cleaning. It came in a glass jar back then. When I started shooting a lot I used Hoppes. Used it for years and it worked of course. There are lots of good lives out there. But I saw a video from a guys channel called Project Farm where he tested lots of different CLP’s. (Very cool channel) And Clenzoil was the absolute best for lubricity. I’m in Florida so I don’t worry about extreme cold weather performance. Lubricity is what I want and Clenzoil is slicker than snot on a doorknob. Really treats the metal over a short time.
My ruger 1022 is 40 years old and honestly i havent cleaned it in at least 35 years lol. She still runs like a champ. On the flip my competition pistols and my edc get cleaned every time they’re used.
More oils better than none, I can't keep track of how many bone-dry guns I've run into over the years, but like the man says no need to overdo it. Thanks Kim you and your husbands' videos are always very informative.
Thank you! We appreciate you watching them
You don't want enough oil where it can get past the primer seat through the firing pin hole.. Had a pistol that got a bit over lubed and it contaminated the chambered round that was in there for months muzzle down.. Good thing it was just a shot at a groundhog that went click-click-click before I worked the slide and put a fresher round in that went bang.. So shiny wiped with an oiled cloth but not dripping except for an AR that is hot and in use as the extra oil helps move carbon in the bolt off the surfaces..
He did an amazing job staying on topic and not focusing on those cream puffs.
Those were nice plump ones, so what was he talking about??
Thanks for watching
There was a guy in this video?!
If your gun didn't need cleaning before watching this video, it will now. Also, the helmet might need polishing or the bayonet sharpening.
@@geaugafirearmsacademyDude......please.
You're taking the time to post that much of a reply. Go on a little farther and speak to the boobs you brought to the party. You owe that to the people.
You could have just created a video about guns, but you got cold feet and feared that it wouldn't get views, so you brought out the tits.
Speak to that, please.
I want to hear you say something to the matter at hand.
A gun video should sell itself.
Beautiful pair on near the table. Lovely
Kim is always easy on the eyes.
Thank you!
Yeah she is, but she probably has a husband, a boyfriend, a few spinning plates and 3-5 orbiters.
Stop being creepy
Well…. I’d rather be a truthful creep, then a simping white knight betta any day.
@@TheShanedolan That was a nice comment. She said THANK YOU. Sounds like your a woke individual.
I work in a gun store and I tell all first time owners to read the manual!! it will tell you if you need to clean it before you first shoot it and how to field strip and where the oil needs to go, also look up some videos on how to field strip and clean it.
we recommend the Slip 2000 brand of oil and cleaners. the oil is a really good cleaner and lubricant, a little bit of it will go a long way. the 725 is a good degreaser, and the carbon killer is really good at breaking up built up carbon and both of them are water soluble so you can just run the parts under tap water to rinse them off, dry them, and apply the oil. the carbon killer is not good to get onto polymer parts though. I've also used the 725 on some long guns with surface rust to clean them back up, usually I'll use a green scotch brite pad as well. it will remove the rust but it can also remove the finish, I'm not sure if its the 725, the scotch brite, or a combo of both but it does leave a nice patina and the barrel can always be reblued.
I have one customer that actually soaks his firearms in some kind of synthetic oil for like 24 hours. DONT DO THIS!!!!!!! his guns are always greasy and you can smell the oil on them. he did this with a brand new FN FiveseveN and brought it back up because it wouldn't fire, the striker go fouled up and wouldn't work right because of the oil in there.
I couldn't agree more. Not only do I clean a new firearm before I shoot it, I'll rack it 1000 times then clean it. You'll see where the cerakote is coming off. It'll help you really see where the oil needs to go. Never had any issues with new firearms having failures when doing this.
Retired professional gunsmith. 75% of "repairs" in my shop were due to poor maintenance or none at all. I have zero respect for the individual who shoots his weapons until they quit. That is flat out foolish.
Good call on Clenzoil! Been using it for decades and highly recommend it over all other products!👍
I agree! Thanks for watching and commenting
@El_Peto Will need alot more info. Is it frozen in place? Moves, but does not disengage the cylinder? Is the ejector rod loose (i.e. unscrewed?) Forward cylinder locking latch stuck or movable?
There are many different things that cause issues that you mentioned.
If you are unsure about it, by all means take it to a good gunsmith to analyze and effect the repairs need. I've had customers in the past that frankly didn't know what they were doing and caused more damage than good.
@El_Peto I don't recommend working on a loaded weapon. However, you might be able to slip a small thin bladed flat screwdriver between the tip of the stud of the front ejector rod stud. Gently try to press in stud in between the frame mounted stud and the ejector rod's tip. Don't force it, but if you can get the ejector rod's tip to clear the springed stud, you have a chance to push the cylinder from the top near the upper frame to open the action. Pressing from the lower part of the cylinder will be fighting the bolt (cylinder stop) in the frame. DO NOT FORCE IT. If this fails to press the spring mounted stud enough to free the cylinder, STOP RIGHT THERE! The object is to allow the spring mounted stud to receed enough to allow the ejector rod's end to slip past the stud. If not, stop and find a gunsmith to resolve this. Never, under any circumstance force any parts.
The procedures to resolve this is beyond the average gun owner's skills and tools.
@El_Peto Good luck with this issue. I suspect that the ejector rod has loosened by the description of you weapon. This is a common occurrence. However, not physically being able to inspect your weapon, I'm speculating from your description alone. There are other factors that can be found by complete inspection. Situations vary.😏
@El_Peto That’s what I suspected. Most will freeze up with gummed up old oil and crud. Use a strong solvent dripped into the lug. Run several drops about every half hour. The idea is to desolve as much gummed material as possible. If compressed air is available, blast into the lug after solvent has broken up the crud. Chances are the coil spring in the lug is rusted. You've got a 50/50 chance of it working with a good oil, but replacement would be the first option. Good luck, and glad I was of help.
This place has been on my travel list for a while gonna have to pop in soon
I usually just try to keep the barrels (specifically the chamber) and extractor clean on my pistols. I really don't care if the frame is dirty, but if I take a gun apart for other reasons then I'll go ahead and wipe it down. Great video!
New gun owner here researching self-education on firearm maintenance. Much thanks for such great information - this really helps, but in hindsight after watching this video I think I don't need to clean my firearm at all & may just be fine with a 2x3 vinyl sticker of "Viktor" applied to my front door!
Thanks for your video.
I found that Lucas Gun-Oil ( red in color ) works great for my weapons.
Kim is a gem‼️
Double gem honestly
“How much oil and where to put it”… lawd have mercy, I need a cold shower 😂
Thanks for watching
You are funny 😁
My man gun gonna need cleaning after this video. 😂
Great video! I have found in the last 26 years that Glocks seem to run with minimal cleaning like 1x per year.
Appreciate the info, albeit I had difficulty maintaining concentration for some reason.
I have a Rugar 10/22 that's about 35 years old. I've shot. I don't know many rounds through it. 5000 maybe. 1000's anyway. Note that only CCI ammo has been used. I cleaned it for the first time a couple of years ago. Honestly, I could have not bothered. The gun was still amazingly clean. I attribute that to the CCI ammo. Just my experience.
Excellent video. Although common sense already told me all of that. That’s why when I first got my firearms I was reading the book that came with it and watching tutorial videos. I clean after almost every usage because I want to make sure it’s always in proper working order because we are always behind the 8 ball in a situation where it would have to get used. Why? Because the bad guy sets the time and place and you will most likely know only at the last second.
When I buy a new gun the first thing I do is get out the owners manual and field strip it. I'll use some Hoppe's 9 solvent to clean it, then a little bit of Lucas gun oil on the moving parts. I clean my guns after every use. I'll field strip it, concentrating on the barrel. I'll pull a bore snake through it and just some light cleaning of any powder residue. I never had any issues using that method.
Carbon absorbs moisture so clean ur gun !
Good info for new gun owners. Had to give a neighbor a quick class on cleaners and lubes in the Walmart recently, as he hasn't been doing any cleaning.
Glad you were able to help them out. thanks for watching and commenting
Great info ! Keep it up! I have had work done on my guns Darrell has been awesome on stipple work and adding his special paint ideas to my Sig 365🍻‼️
For 40 years of owning a black powder replica I have used Murphy's oil soap and hot water to clean with then a wipe down and swabbing with a gun oil or automatic transmission fluid.. I have also used gum-out carb cleaner, #9 and ATF on all metal components of smokeless powder cartridge guns.. For long term storage the wax based spray in a can does a great job at pickling a gun without turning it into a gummy mess like grandpas cosmoline.. I have always gone with the quick field strip and wipe down with a lightly oiled cloth and a quick bore brushing either dry or the wet patch then dry patch depending on the ammo used.. Very rarely should you need to do a deeper cleaning except with wax lubed .22 ammo because that stuff gums up extractors, ejectors, slides, and even trigger mechanisms as bad as cosmoline..
Thanks for sharing and watching
Interesting...my uncle who was an avid black powder enthusiast gave me this recipe when I was young:
1 part 70% rubbing alcohol
1 part Murphy's Wood oil
1 part household ammonia
1 part 5% hydrogen peroxide
This mix works great on all firearms. The ammonia neutralizes any chloride residues from corrosive primers, the peroxide really helps get into hard to access areas and bubbles the funk out.
I field strip and clean after every range trip. I usually shoot 200-300 rounds a trip. I enjoy keeping it clean since it is my EDC. Just this week I removed the striker fire pin and cleaned it after having the pistol for about 4-5 years.
That's a good plan! Thanks for watching and commenting.
That's a lot of maintenance for a low round count. I usually clean my glocks every 1000 rounds. I just wipe and lube. You don't need to field strip everything.
There's something special about Kim
Great video, good PSA style content.
Thank you!
Nice guns ❤
Dude has incredible eye control.
Yea .... he has to and im sure it was torture
What was this video about?
I got distracted
Them thangs sitting nice lol
So did i (-) (-)
Shirt was fighting for it's life
wait.....why am I here?
Thanks for watching
Thanks, very informative video 👍👍👍👍
🌲 Field strip would be nice ; )
I think TH-cam might remove the vid and put a strike on the account for that.
Im sure theres a link for that
@@October19x haha
Excellent video, right to the point. And, Fairport Harbor is one of my favorite little towns.
It is a nice place to visit! Thanks for watching
Sounds like a "how often should I tune my guitar" type question. When it needs tuning, tune it. When it needs cleaning, clean it.
I clean with gun scrubber and oil with G96
Hey dude keep looking straight ahead LOL!
Thanks for settling this common debate.
Good info some people just don't know 👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you!
Nice eye control from bro
Just clean your gun after your range day. Why not keep your firearms that you use for preserving life clean and ready to go
Thanks for watching and commenting
Because carbon buildup/fouling doesn't affect the reliability of most modern handguns. There are some exceptions with finicky 2011s and such, but if you're just carrying/using a striker fired pistol, you do not need to clean it. That being said, I still clean/oil my carry gun somewhat regularly. I do not clean my training guns anymore though as it's generally a waste of time and their reliability has not been affected.
same, i let my shotgun sit unfired for a year and i just cleaned it the other day because it was covered in dust (inside and out)
Interesting! 😊
Where to put the oil…. 🤔
Great info, thanks.
She knows EXACTLY what she's doing.... For the views!
Very well said, thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Thanks for another great video Kim. I really should go to Viktors sometime. I only live 40 minutes away
They are really good people there! Thanks for watching and commenting
Kim brought in the big guns.
many years ago, 15 maybe, I used a shotgun scrubber spray to clean my new SA SD 9mm and it took the finish off the slide. SA warranty let me send it in and they recoated it for free. I don’t know if it was flawed manufacturing or what, but I stopped using gun scrubber.
Growing up 22 rifles were clean once a year as they were used for squirrels, woodchucks etc. My carry gun is another story…..after a range session, strip down and cleaned. Every two weeks a wipe down using CLP to get what ever holster crud is on it off.
I am also a motorboater. 24’ well craft
Great advise, thanks !!!
Noted nothing was mentioned about corrosive ammo, yes besides corrosive binary primers, some propellants like Pyrodex and Triple 7 contain perchlorate which burns to potassium chloride on ignition. These residues, especially when its humid, the corrosion can be quite fast and severe. All steel surfaces exposed to propellant gases must be neutralized with a water ammonia base solvent. Being as lots of shooters and reloaders are contending with supply shortages, corrosive ammo is making a re-surgence as it is usually cheaper..so thought this should be mentioned. Pay particular attention with gas operated weapons to the gas tube, port and block interior surfaces.
Great advice. Thanks.
Thanks, great video!
Routine I used for about 15 years of competition shooting and never had a problem; Remove the wood grips, put the weapon in a bucket of coal oil let it set a while then blow it out with the air hose.
Would love to see the same video for a full size revolver (.357, maybe)
I run a bore snake thru my long guns after shooting wipe down hand gun lightly deep clean both once a year . 😊
Those are great! So easy to use. Thanks for watching
I clean after I shoot. If you want consistency than all the factors that you can control need to be consistent. That’s how I look at it. Only exception is 22lr that shoots better with some fouling.
I'm still waiting on the options alternatives to a handgun. You stated 9 months ago that you would put up a video on that. Thank you
I usually clean my gun after getting home from shooting but no later than the next day after shooting. I normally use Lucas CLP because it’s easy to find in large quantities but was there a particular product you’d recommend?
Victor will hurt to use a air compressor to blow out a pistol and a rifle please respond thank you
You do it in early Winter before you put it away. Apply a thin oil coat in the barrel and action to prevent rust.
Great job guys Awesome video 🙂☕👍
Thank you!
Pro Tip: Gun Scrubber is 100% effective killing roaches, wasps, etc…if you are out of bug spray 🤠
Good to know! Haha
It’s better than bug spray. Drops them right out of the air.
Those are two nice guns.
I do like cleanzoil
Thanks
I am a Veteran from Ice Cold and dark Norway. A Hammer is the best I have hear for a long time. To much Oil is not to good in the Cold we have here now.
The military had us clean our weapons after every use
I’ve held true to that this day
My M-16 was the cleanest in the armory and my weapons at home are just as clean and ready.
My rule of thumb when it comes to gun cleaning is to do it literally every time I shoot (maybe 1-2 days later if I can't do right away) - never had a malfunction gun. Also, to me, the cleaning process is therapeutical. Once you get the hang of it, it's not that complicated at all.
You forgot to say; "Don't use WD-40 unless you drowned your gun to get water out".
WD-40 dries out, and washes ALL the oil/grease out of the gun. It's not a lubricant, it's "Wster Dispersant 40".
While formula has changed since the original, it still dries up and there's little or no lubricant left.
Washing your gun out with metal guns is okay, but plastic and other parts might not like it.
Go with a gun oil for the final lubrication after the cleaning is done.
Also...ultrasonic cleaners are your friend. Just make sure not to use too harsh of a cleaner in them. And don't make the mistake of leaving water, cleaning fluid, or dirt residue, inside the ultrasonic cleaner tank for extended periods of time. It WILL eat through the tank, creating various pinhole leaks and basically destroy the ultrasonic cleaner. Make sure to drain and clean the tank in between uses.
She can clean my gun ANYTIME...great video
not to mention that plastic friendly non-chlorinated brake cleaner works awesome to rinse out the crud and prep for fresh lube. and cheaper than most gun sprays
Bro has the restraint of a saint, I would not be able to focus 😂
Imagine that! Reading the manual. 👍
😂 a lot of people don't
Peeps buy a $ 50,000 vehicle and NEVER crack the Owner's Manual, we certainly can't expect them to be any different for a 4 to $500 firearm!🙃
When there IS a manual that is. I don't have big collection, but I've only purchased 2 of them new, so they are the ones that came with manuals. The rest were inherited and purchased used without manuals. I do wish they would have given a general reference about where and how much to lube for those without manuals. But I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so I have a pretty good idea what parts move against each other and where to lube, and the references in the manuals that I do have also apply to my other similar guns.
I kept hearing once a year but no one's said that in quite a while. Since I'm only making one trip to a range per year (time constraints and distance are a factor) it's fair to quickly shove a Hoppes 9 coated cotton down a few barrels for ten seconds and do it again the next year.
1911 pistols are the worst. I can do my Desert Eagle blindfolded and upside down but not a 1911. They're finnicky. Even my local gunsmiths are hesitant to strip them down and reassemble. It's not hard, but it's just whenever the pieces are together they just don't want to snap in place as they were designed to. It's always something. >_
Very informative video 😝
Depending on your firearm, you should clean out the extractor channel and firing pin channel once in a while.
Those are nice. The guns, of course
I was looking at my carb cleaner. Maybe not the best option. I guess I'll try gun scrubber instead.
Same thing if you ask me. I’d only use either on an AR bolt, and no where near plastic or wood that you don’t want destroyed. There’s too many superior gun cleaners out there, Weaponshield, Slip 2000, Hoppe’s, CLP, etc. I’ll also never use anything that sprays on again as I want the cleaner on the patch or gun part, not oversprayed everywhere.
Is it true that it’s more important to clean revolvers?
I haven't found that cleaning improves reliability in modern handguns, and I think most competitive shooters going through high round counts would agree with me. That being said, I do keep my carry gun clean(ish) and oiled just for emotional reassurance. AR platforms do benefit from having the bolt wiped off with an oiled rag every session, though.
I agree! Thanks for watching and commenting
I was told by armorers that (after cleaning) I should be careful not to get MUCH oil on the firing pin/magazine/barrel. As this could cause Ammo (not mil spec) to not fire due to contamination. True??
I use Gun Scrubber and have had no problems. I run a snake through the barrel with some Remington oil on it. I use Tetris grease on the slide rails.
The original formula of Gun Scrubber back in the 1980’s and ‘90’s was much harsher than the stuff they’re selling now, and had a substance that was later banned. I think I’ll equate the effect of that Gun Scrubber to brake cleaner. I used to use it all the time, and in addition to overspray ruining a set of Pachmayer presentation grips, I made the mistake of spraying some into the action of a Remington 870 Wingmaster with some beautiful old wood. The overspray settled on the poly finished stock and destroyed the finish, making it look like acid had been used.
Sorry, I don’t know of anyone who completely removes their stock and forend to clean a shotgun, but that’s what you had to do with any gun you used it on, whether synthetic or wood stock. Yeah, your guns were “clean” but the stuff was incredibly caustic. I heard they “upgraded” it years later, but I threw out what I had and never went back. I don’t use anything but CLP or equivalent cleaners now.
Oh the humanity!
A lot of times I'll do a mag dump walking from the garage to the house at night. I always keep metal targets set up around the yard, but even one mag shot through gun I clean it next day. Only takes a few min. to clean a pistol is you do it often.
That's expensive with self defense ammo...
@@vettle1 No, no, always throw in a mag of FMJ. Always have FMJ within reach.
I only have rifles as I'm in Chinada right now. Will change that if we get our planned change of government. I clean my rifles after each use. I don't go nuts. The barrel gets the most attention. Don't worry about copper fouling unless it's bad. We need some of that in budget barrels. The rest of a semi auto gets wiped down, lubed, wiped dry and reassembled. Bolt rifles are wiped down and are easy to clean. G96 cleaner is the easiest for inside the bolt that you don't want to disassemble since we are not gunsmiths. That is unless you have and SKS and the full tear down is easy! :)