Most of us old timers were aware of cleaning rust from pitted finishes with brass. However, this is a great video for those who were unaware. Youi've probably been responsible for saving the finish on many firearms by sharing this. Thanks.
Mark Novak, the Anvil gunsmith, had a video showing how to restore a lightly rusted blued gun surface. He put the rusted part in boiling water for a time, then removed it, and the water evaporated immediately. A very fine buffing wire wheel gently applied to the surface removed the discoloration to reveal that the bluing had been restored. It didn't repair pitting or loose scale rust, but the brown rust patina surface was restored to blued, not the base metal silver color of raw steel.
Just a small correction, a CARDING wheel should be used. Mark Novak does not recommend using a wire wheel as it WILL remove any finish/bluing. A carding wheel is much softer and will preserve the finish.
@@shanedaugherty4927 I remember seeing that video, or one of his videos where he used the carding wheel. I'd love to find it again so I can see that process that Mr. Novak used.
Anyone who's served in the military should recognize that brush. It comes in every standard issue cleaning kit for the M16/M4 series rifles. They're outstanding brushes.
I have used CLP and a penny to remove rust without damaging the finish. A drop of CLP on the area, coat the entire area by using your finger. Next I take a penny , hold it between my thump and index finger at a 45* angle using the edge/side lip and get to rubbing with the penny. Being that copper cladding is softer than the steel it won’t damage the finish and the edge of the penny will do a more efficient job of removing larger pieces/areas of rust. Then when I’m done I wipe down the surface with an alcohol prep, gauze and alcohol (denatured works best) or a mild degreaser. Finally, I will wipe down the entire surface with a silicon clothe or rag with CLP.
Be sure it's a pre-1982 copper penny. The pre-1982 pennies are 95% copper, the modern pennies after the year 1982 are 97.5% zinc and only 2.5% copper and will damage your rifle's finish.
Brass brush followed up with bore solvent works even easier. The solvent is designed for copper fouling and removes the brass stain easily. Just wipe with oil and you’re done!
I dont know why people say that they can remove the rust but preserve the finish. To me the finish is the protective coating over the bare metal. If there is rust the finish is already compromised. The metal needs to have a protective coating put back on after removing the rust
You provided a response to your original statement. In using the brass brush rust was removed. Since the brass left the bluing the finished was preserved. Where there was rust there was no finish left to preserve. "To me the finish is the ..." Not only to you but in fact the finish, blued, browned or otherwise is the protection of the bare steel. Maybe the poster will make a video on how to repair patches with no finish using cold bluing.
@@americanpie123break apart the pencil, take out the graphite rod, break it into small shards/dust, grab a rag or something you dont care about, and rub it in hard for a few minutes. if you leave the graphite dust on it, itll help protect from rust spots too.
I always used a pre-82' real copper penny and gun oil, lubing the rusted area and rubbing the penny on the barrel till the rust comes off, works perfectly.
I have "Chore Boy" brand scrubbing pads that I use to get lead fouling out barrels. They are 100% copper. I imagine that would work as well, and you could cover a larger area with each swipe. I think I will try that, and the brass brush idea on a "new", 80 year old Savage Model 5 that I just bought. I will see which works better. Thanks for the tips
For those wondering why the wool removed the red oxide but not the black oxide it's because black iron oxide is very hard while the red isn't. In fact black iron oxide is used to coat drill bits to extend their lifespan.
There is also the theory to never use a nonferrous brush, as the brush leave particles of a dissimilar metal on the steel. Moisture could cause galvanic corrosion to occur between the two metal particles. Of course, moisture would eventually cause oxidation anyway, so whatever. One actual tip though. With a wire brush (or any stiff material) the natural springing back and forth of the bristle tips create the cleaning action. Once bent the tips aren't aligned and are less effective. If you are bearing down and bend the bristles, you are pressing to hard.
Great tip. I live on the Pacific Northwest coast where rust is a big problem with blued gun metal. They also sell copper wool that works very well. The biggest concern with that much rust pitting is what the inside of the bore looks like, hopefully the rifling is not to bad.
I live near the ocean. Going back to the late 1970's, I invested in silicone treated gun wiping/cleaning cloth(s) and silicone treated gun socks - both are inexpensive. After cleaning or periodic wiping down, place silica gel packets - they're also inexpensive - in every case, safe, or drawer in which you've got a firearm stored. I rotate the silica packets about every other year. 30ea., 20 gram, food grade packets, I put two - 1 top, 1 bottom - in every soft rifle case and pistol case. The packets will set cha back a whopping $1.50 each and are - trust me - worth every penny.
I do electrical work and almost every light fixture comes with multiple silica packs. I save every single one and put them in my gun safes, ammo cans, tool box drawers, etc.
Boat propeller paint, airplane propeller paint, and Tremclad or Rustoleum black metal paint in either gloss or matte. They all can be used to paint a firearm “instead of” bluing. ~Another thing is when you’re handling gun oil or toxic solvents then wear disposable “nitrile gloves” (they come in boxes of 50 or 100. I use XL size). Do not do it with your bare hands because toxic poisons can be absorbed through the skin.
From my experience, even cloth or a brush made from something softer than the steel still picks up oxidized particles that have the potential to scratch the finish. I use the pre-82 copper penny trick with a liberal amount of oil to float the particles away.
Cloth made from plant fibre (cotton and Linen) contains a small amount of Silicon" based crystals. Paper seems to contain more, which is why you can also use paper for some polishing operations. Boiling the part in distilled water will "convert" the red rust ro "black" rust, which is what "Blueing" is. And "blueing' like phosphating is fundamentally intended to be a coating that holds oil, thus preventing / slowing corrosion.
Use a 50/50 mix of plain old white vinegar and water. Let the rusted object sit submerged for 2 to 3 days. The rust will just fall off. You can also place the object in a container or zip lock bag with b b,s or gravel, shaking the bag several times daily to clean off the heavy rust. This works great also to remove rusted motorcycle gunk out of gas tanks, using gravel, shaking daily. After several days, metal will be completely free of rust at the microscopic level without any abrasive action, aside from shaking the bag. Simply wash with soapy water, then rinse clean with just water, then a cloth dipped in linseed oil. Any painted surface will not be damaged by the mild white vinegar. If worried about damaging vintage paint, don’t use the b.b/gravel part. Just remember, after the rust has been removed, the metal will rust again without some sort of protectant applied. This is the best on things like old antique rusty painted metal you don’t want damaged. Cheap, effective and completely non abrasive if skipping the b.b/gravel part. Works like magic.
First, degrease thoroughly. Use a fine steel brush instead to remove all the flaky rust (gently), do not use any oils at that stage. With something like a barrel, boil a pot of water and then run the part over the steam. That will convert the rust to black iron oxide (bluing). Once cooled, gently rub the blackened part with a fine wire brush or steel wool again to remove the loose black oxide.The process may have to be repeated with heavily rusted parts, you want to remove the rust to close to the surface as it will not penetrate heavy rust flakes but the point is you do NOT want to remove the rust completely, you want to convert it. Smaller parts may be boiled in a pot of water for 5 minutes or so. After you are done soak the part(s) in kerosene for a day. They can then be dried and oiled. That is the way to properly preserve a rusted firearm. Simply brushing the rust off and then applying oil does not remove the rust, though it may look black after oiling, the rust is still there.
@@korkser This is one of those 'jobs' where you need to sit down on your patio or back porch and take the time to do what is needed to stop any further damage to a gun which has meaning for you or at least to stop any further damage to it. It's either worth it or not, and if not then give it to someone who is willing to put in the time to save it from decaying any further.
Hardly a secret. Been doing similar for 40 years, using any brass tool - brushes, commercially available brass pick and scrapers, and my favorites, either pure brass wool or a .308 brass case cut in half and smashed flat. Works like a charm. Just make sure your brushes are not brass coated steel - many are and that will ruin you day. If you insist on a brush I highly recommend the 24 pack of wood handled brushes available from the same source, for just over 50 cents each.
@@BigSamMosinMuseum I have been doing this for a long time and what I find that works even better is an old pure copper penny or at the very least a piece of copper tubing but an old copper penny made in the US before whatever date it was before they put everything in it will take off all the rust and it will not hurt the Finish whatsoever I have been doing this for a long time and it works like a charm pure copper better than brass trust me it does work
Feel free to share this is vice but it's getting harder and harder to find wheat back pennies but I think copper tubing might work as well but wheat back pennies is what I've always used and it's really good especially when they're very badly pitted but you don't want to take off the finished you cannot ruin the finish with that
@@mikewolfdog3083 excellent use of a penny with a lubricant for discovered rust. a friend stored his 92F in a sheepskin pistol case for a season. an old gunsmithing book had subject material on this as stated before. fortunately the rust eas only surface and not deep. this addition of a brass brush was neato. THANKS Big Sam!!!
Found some light rust on my rilfe. Took a brass tooth brush and some hoppe's nitro solvent and went to work. Put some gun oil on it as done in the video above. When I was finished the rusted spot was unnoticeable, almost undetectable. The blue finish was still there, as in the video.
PB blaster is really good for removing rust in tight places, also with the brush. I’m almost finished restoring a Revelation 350 shotgun, nothing worked in the trigger assembly. Could not open the barrel. Thanks to PB blaster.
I have restored and repaired multiple guns and while the video actually shows one of the possible ways to get rid of the rust, that's by no mean the less invasive and it DOES NOT guarantee that the finish will not come over - especially with rust pits like those. And it may also leave scratch marks on the weapon, although very light ones. Methods to get rid of the rust of a firearm (From the least aggressive to the most aggressive) 1)Boiling the part. It's really time consuming but relatively simple. Just boil the part for enought time to remove the rust. 2) Rub it with soda. Soda is lightly abrasive and can slowly remove the rust. 3)Electolysis. Immerge the part in a water container filled with salt and water and trigger the reaction by connecting a car battery to the system (+ terminal to the part, - terminal to a metal rod that hangs on the container) 4) Hydrochloric acid. That's kinda aggressive. Just put the part into a container full of acid. This will remove all the rust. Beware: It may leave the a mate like finish on the part if you keep it too long in the solution. 5) Brushing and grinding. I would advice you not to use this one. The probability to leave marks is extremely high.
I've been wondering about the electrolysis method for gun parts, but I'm concerned that the process may be damaging to the integrity of the steel. I've used electrolysis for cleaning lots of rusted tools, and while it removes any rust (and finish), it leaves the metal a different color than it would be if it were just the bare metal. I believe the process does harm the metal somewhat. On a side note, instead of using salt, washing soda (not baking soda), sodium carbonate, works much better I've found.
If i use the steel wool pads i go for the very fine 0000 ones with mild pressure applied by hand with oil, they seem not to damage finish, but still think the brass would be my best choice.
Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner does the same thing, but little pieces can be pulled off and used to run through the bore to remove lead fouling very well. I like brass brushes also.
This method can have fine results. Something to watch for is that the tiny particles from off the rusted surface can embed in the brush tips and make scratches in steel. I like the pre-82' penny idea. I'll try that later.
I’ve always used baking soda mixed with water to make a slurry then scrub with a plain old tooth brush it’s worked pretty well for me on surface rust I’ll try this on deep pits.
Also, for relly deep rust, you can use a thin slurry ade from Baking Soda and White vinegar! It will really eat the rust away down to the bare metal which is what you want, otherwise, you haven't removed ALL the rust!
I’ve been shooting my entire Life ….. this is all news to me !!! I love to learn new techniques to treat my firearms. Thank You for Your content. GOD Bless You and Your’s ….. Happy 😊 Thanksgiving !!! ❤️🇺🇸🌞
You can remove all the rust using many different types of cleaning solutions. There are solutions in many categories, everything from household, firearm , automotive and even Tool/ hardware solvents that will completely remove rust. They will also do so with nothing more than a cotton rag while not leaving behind non ferrous metal behind in the puts of the steel.
There is a chemical that will literally boil the rust off of the metal, but you will need to go over the barrel with cold blue afterwards. I have used it on old shotguns before and it works really well.
@@Pineapple-co6fe it depends on how much rust it has. Oil the rusted area and scrub with the 0000 pad then wipe off with a rag. Repeat this until it's to your satisfactory. 👍
I have learned to never grab the gun by the barrel . The salt in your sweat will start the rust and if put away like that . Wipe with light oil before storage . Your advice is good .
The best way to deal with a situation that this gentleman is showing is I use stainless steel brushes to get all the rust off and yes there are going to be pit holes left in the metal then what you do is you fill the pit holes with J-B Weld is nice and black sanded all down to a smooth finish and then I use a nice cold bluing process to reblue the metal and in the end you have a smooth surface the pit holes are filled and the Finish is still preserved and by the way when you fill the pit holes with metal it cuts off the air so that the compromised metal will not oxidize any further that is the best way to treat a situation like what this gentleman is showing and when looking at the gun that looks a lot better than rough pit hold just left in the bare metal not to mention after you blew it the J-B Weld and the bluing are darn near the same color so what you end up with is a perfect repair then after it is all done if you really want to keep the gun from ever resting again wipe all the barrel down with dailies been matte finish and let it Harden for a couple of days then you will never ever have Rust ever again on your firearms and they will look like a brand-new hot bluing has been done
That sounds more like proses an old gun restorer I knew used along with the draw filing. He would also rub the fine file with a piece of blackboard chalk
I would have wrapped the oxidized area with a shop towel soaked with Evaporust. Then, after about 24 hours, as EVR leaves a slightly grayish finish, bring it back with a muslin buff and black emery compound. This does not remove the original finish. I restore and refurbish vintage machinery. Light industrial. This happens on a daily basis. Good luck.
Evaporust! Always have a jug of it in the shop,! Great stuff. Since I’m working on firearms- usually smaller parts - I dunk them and reuse the evaporust. Will have to keep your wet rag technique in mind for larger projects. Thanks
clean your weapon, polish the parts and apply the molybdenum disulphide spray grease with a cotton cloth over the entire weapon without using oil, you will have a weapon that is dry to the touch but perfectly hydrated, remember that the oil from the skin with sweat makes rust so use the patch with the grease you used without adding more to remove your oil from the surface, I have a patch that I use to clean the slide of my glock with the same grease I put on 4 years ago!! I use this grease on my Browning Gold, on my American Ruger and on my Glock and I assure you that after understanding how to use the grease, the oil will disgust you!!
No, the answer is to clean the metal with acetone, boil the piece in distilled water for 30-45 minutes, and then use a carding wheel. If you're not going to convert the rust, you might as well sandblast it.
use gun oil and 0000 steel wool and lightly rub. The 0000 steel wool is fine enough to really not scratch and the oil makes it easier to remove the rust.
Been doing that for years back when I had an FFL, and was buying milsurp firearms. Would always disassemble and do any necessary repairs, then go over the metal with what you posted.
@@alanbud5181 yeah that for surface rust and not wanting to remove the bluing or scratch it pitted rust is another story really can't remove the pitting but can improve the finish and polish making it less noticeable
This is fine for common guns I suppose, but "Converting" by boiling the rusted parts in water for hard to reach rust will completely preserve the remaining original blueing and is how anything worth preserving should be handled. It will get to the bottom of pits that you can't get to with a brush. I can't imagine that a brush won't take off some original blueing. See: Mark Novak / Anvil ..It's only original once.
It's important to note that using a brass brush can result in the unfinished (bare) metal being exposed. This is not because the brush removed the finish but because the rust had already eaten away at the finish and the brush is merely exposing that.
That's what I have been wondering. It seems that the rust would have to eat through the finish to get to the metal, so when you remove the rust, you are left with bare metal. Would you recommend re-blueing that part?
On my rifle barrel, I just used a kitchen scouring pad to get the worst of the rust off then washed the area over with a lick of rust convertor. It has never rusted since.
A another method I did not read here and have not seen in a few gun videos I have seen, is using a rouge jewelers rouge, ,they come in a various grades, but red or white will work and a buffing wheel or possibly just a pad or gauze on a sander or gauze on a palm sander? rub, the rouge on the rust into a thick layer, buff slowly and keep repeating until the rust and the pits are gone, I have not used this on guns per se a lot ,but worked daily final finishing auto glass like this and used it for yrs doing high end ornamental brass hand rails etc. never had any issues with this and & removes pitting, scratches in everything from LG. glass to jewelry. Another oddball flashback ,as a kid had a neighbor who always cleaned our guns and would soak a nylon stocking in what I suppose was hoppes red oil and after cleaning would slip the gun in the stocking and let it sit while he cleaned something else:)used a diaper to wiper it after he removed the stocking ,it would also seem obvious to me now a days if I were storing guns in a gun cabinet it would have some sort of dehumidifier in it? Thanks Peace. Rick
Exellant! I was thinking you had a new way. This is what I've done in the past. I'm open to different ways of caring for my guns and some think a brass bore brush will harm a bore. But, it won't! Light rust can be removed with white vinegar also.
I have a Remington model 12a bought at a farm auction. The barrel was not pitted, rusty but not severe. I applied gun oil and let it soak for a while, then, wiped with gun patches. That removed the surface rust sufficiently leaving a nice somewhat blue patina.
@@hstetser5376 Well thats good to know but bluing is a form of rust and evapo will work good at removing it. I have used it to give one of my Italian copies of a Remington 1858 a distressed antique look. Looks legitimately like a vintage gun until you see the markings up close.
This does not stop active rust. It temporarily delays further decay, but more rust will begin again in time. The only way to stop it is to covert iron oxide to ferro ferric oxide through heat
I restored My friends grandfathers winchester 30-30 lever ..I used fine sandpaper and sreel wool ..dont worry about the finish ..i then used BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUN BLUE ..use water wet steel ..put on gun blue then wipe off ...buff and repeat ..untill blue is unifom ..it came out beatifull ..I also REBLUED my Dads old ORGTIES .25 pistol which had lost most of its bluing came out fantastic
Wipe your firearms down every time you use them. Coat them lightly with oil or even gun grease when they are to be stored for any length of time, will avoid this. If you buy a used firearm that has a spot on it clean it to bare metal then reblue it.
There is a product called "Cosmoline" which the military has used for years to preserve weapons in storage. It contains a penetrating oil and rust removers/inhibitors and leaves a waxy coating witch must be removed before using the weapon. Comes in a spray can, and is available directly from the manufacturer by mail. It has a strong odor of spearmint and has many other uses
I bought a pretty rough model 94. Sent it to a gun smith and it looked brand new. He Cleaned it, fixed the trigger, replaced the barrel and he re blued the new barrel. With the right gunsmith they can bring anything back to life.
I havent had any pitting on my firearms, but I found spraying the gun down with WD-40 and scrubbing it with paper towels aggressively took all the surface rust off after my gun bag got wet in the woods.
step 1 . boil the barrel in distilled water. step 2. 0000 steel wool lightly rub soaked in gun oil . your done . gets rid of active rust and neutralizes it while creating black oxide rust which is inactive preserving the finish
Trying to remove rust by abrasion may not be the best way to go. There are many videos using a conversion process that changes the oxydation state back to blue from red rust. Bluing is a rust process. The example shown in this video is a fine candidate for conversion. Look for videos by ANVIL, Mark Novak.
Use steam for about 45 minutes, then brush off the byproducts afterwards, this is a much more efficient way to ensure that the whole gun is totally free from corrosion. It’s basically just the last half of the rust bluing process that most of these guns were originally finished with. Red rust is a byproduct of an oxidation process, but if you get red rust to oxidize, you’re left with black oxide, which is all bluing is. Natural rust *usually* doesn’t convert into finish, because the grain size of natural rust is typically too large. Look up Mark Novak to see it actually done.
Big frontier 45 metal cleaner is magical. It does not remove the finish. And it can be used to clean the inside of the barrel as well. I love it. Brass works too but big frontier 45 is far better.
Copper Penny's 1981 or older. Work vary well on surface rust, lube affected area first with gun oil. The brush is needed for pits. Rust can scratch blueing if wiped on to non affected area. It is best to lubricant rust area first before brushing,or wiping after brushing. Gun oil first/ any lube first.
Bronze wool works as well. Just fully disassembled and fully reassembled an old Higgins 1 shot break barrel 12 gauge that was a complete rust bucket throughout
Im onto this very quickly. When I get in from shooting I’ll rub it with an old copper penny. But it is nowhere near as bad as the rust on your guns. And then I use gun oil to cover the barrel. Constantly doing this seems to keep them in good condition.
I use an empty brass shell to "Erase" the rust and also the brass brush. Nitro solvent to clean off the brass and some cold bluing to make it look nice. Something every gun owner should know.
I always keep my guns along with a bunch of desiccant containers I change out every few months. No moisture, NO RUST. Great maintenance post. That big pit on that first barrel gives me great concern. I would be reluctant to use it anymore. Thanks again.
Not sure why I haven't seen more of it or why it isn't more common to use a pencil. The graphite of a pencil will remove the rust, apply a protective coating to the steel, and not hurt the finish of the firearm in any way. In my experience, a mechanical pencil with a 0.7mm point works best. This has worked on polished, blued, parkerized, stainless steel, and other coatings and metals.
@@justnoted2995 it removes the rust. The tip of the pencil "lead"is hard enough to remove rust and the bit that is ground down can be rubbed into the metal to apply the graphite as a protective layer.
Turpentine and pumice dust will remove rust and where the finish is gone it will leave the metal dull gray, it fades from blue to dull gray. It will not remove the blue. Also use furniture paste wax instead of oil to protect the finish from moisture and grease instead of oil to lucubrate moving parts. They will stop most rust before it starts.
Keep telling my friend this and this is what I always used since I was 15 am 44 now he says yous steel wool I said ok I'll use it on your firearms but not mine , Mr know it alls right 😂 lol
For any old gun restoration, 0000 steel wool will not harm any remaining bluing, and Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner rust and dirt remover is a must for cleaning a bore!!!!!!! Look it up! I have restored several old guns. Save your old gun cleaning brushes and use them with the later! Amazing results! Lots of time on the internet to come across that! ;)
Anybody Who has neglected Their rifle to that extent, or buys one that turns out to be in this condition should be ready to do some refinishing, that being said a powered wire wheel of a finer wire size will reach down into the rust fissures, taking away more oxidation, and should be followed up with Brownells Oxpho Blue, which converts the finest oxidation to bluing, followed up with washing away with very hot water, to dry, and oiling with a good gun oil.....I have 30 years of experience with this method, with no re-occurance of the rust....I am Canadian, I do not work for Brownells....
Had a roommate invited him to live with me cause he didn't have anywhere to go and we grew up together. Sold me his Mossberg pump for rent wasn't worried about it, let him keep it in this room under his bed. Had a guy offered a trade for a Browning buckmark 22 when to get the shotgun rested so bad you couldn't even rack the action. Turned out,my buddy was an adult bed-wetter rusted the hell out of that shotgun. 😡 Needless to say I was pissed.
Great vid , TY ! Gotta say seeing pitting and rust gave me anxiety because I’m OCD about cleaning and caring for my weapons. I use my firearms and nothing is made to stay in the safe that I have .
I like the Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner and foaming gun cleaner (bore) with a nylon brush. There's an Elite kit with more. Anyone used any Metalloid products like Green Gun Oil, Metcor57, Bore Shield, etc? I just did some guns with them, they look good. The gun oil did clean very well. Supposedly 4 years protection with BS and Duck Hunters Delight.
Take the gun apart, steam or boil for 20-30 min. Then card it. Boiling turns the rust to iron oxide, card it once the biggest loose rust is gone. Then soak it in kerosene overnight, it will blend in with a little time
I found a 16 gauge 870 Wingmaster at a local shop with a badly pitted receiver. But the barrel was good and almost no wear on the action. Seemed like it had been barely used since it was made in 1970. It had nice wood and I took it home for $180. I bead blasted the receiver at work and then cold blued it. Could have had it hot blued and maybe I will someday. Always wondered how it was stored that allowed the receiver to rust while the test of the gun was untouched.
We had a gun in a closet that had a small ankle level vent... (level with the receiver, but the barrels were taller in the closet when we set it down on the stock in a corner - if you can picture it). It stood there for ~20 years w/o much wear... then boom, all at once in a few years the receiver rusted. We theorized it was the slight passage of air from the vent? (But we don't really know either?)
Hot blue draw files hot reblue draw file 500 times till you don't see the pits and use blackboard chalk rubbed across the file. Helps to keep the lines down. It's like chroming then scraping the chrome off but leaving it in the pits. Takes a while but you will be remarkably satisfied. I live on the cold north wet coast seen this more than I want to admit. Had to give up hockey to keep my guns up. Then there are the friend's guns. Next, you have a whole group of friends in your shop draw filing and hot bluing. But none of us know a dam thing about hockey
Good Post. Brass is a. Alloy of ZINC and COPPER. Have you ever tried an Aluminum brush ? Aluminum and Rust ( Iron Oxide ) undergo an electrochemical reaction that converts the Rust back to Iron as it converts the Aliminum to Aluminum Oxide. There are lots of Pists that show how to use a car vattery charger and TRUSODIUM PHOSPHATE as an electrolyte. I am still experimenting with different kinds of electrically conducting brushes soaked in TSP, and a car battery charger. But, am looking for a MIRACLE. Once I remove the rust, how do I fill in the pits to return the parts to like-new condition ----》 NO PITS !
I once left a couple blued magazines out in the snow once and then they rusted pretty bad. I hated the way they looked and thought the only way to restore them would be to take them to a gunsmith and have them re-blued. Shortly after that I learned this trick and felt like an idiot. That gunsmith was nice and charged me a fair price but it was still a lot more money than a $1 bronze brush.
The Mosin-Nagant dates back to the late 1800s and has been used in pretty much every war since it was first produced, including the one in Russia-Ukraine. Some of these were hidden in walls, lost in trenches, or sat forgotten in grandpas basement for years; so it figures there would be a lot of rust. Its usually less neglect and more "I forgot".
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Most of us old timers were aware of cleaning rust from pitted finishes with brass. However, this is a great video for those who were unaware. Youi've probably been responsible for saving the finish on many firearms by sharing this. Thanks.
Nothing like hearing a self proclaimed “old timer” say he already knew something
@@toxico1152 😆 You can't watch one gun video without seeing a comment along those lines.
Been using brass brushes in my dremel for years.
@@toxico1152 You didn't know you could get rid of rust with a wire brush? Glad you learned something.
Or removing it. It all depends on the finish conditions and type.
Mark Novak, the Anvil gunsmith, had a video showing how to restore a lightly rusted blued gun surface. He put the rusted part in boiling water for a time, then removed it, and the water evaporated immediately. A very fine buffing wire wheel gently applied to the surface removed the discoloration to reveal that the bluing had been restored. It didn't repair pitting or loose scale rust, but the brown rust patina surface was restored to blued, not the base metal silver color of raw steel.
Just a small correction, a CARDING wheel should be used. Mark Novak does not recommend using a wire wheel as it WILL remove any finish/bluing. A carding wheel is much softer and will preserve the finish.
He's a master of conserving old guns.
@@shanedaugherty4927 I remember seeing that video, or one of his videos where he used the carding wheel. I'd love to find it again so I can see that process that Mr. Novak used.
Anyone who's served in the military should recognize that brush. It comes in every standard issue cleaning kit for the M16/M4 series rifles. They're outstanding brushes.
Additionally, CLP was referenced and the best for those Mint New M16 A-2s.
They are m16 brushes. Lol
I have used CLP and a penny to remove rust without damaging the finish. A drop of CLP on the area, coat the entire area by using your finger. Next I take a penny , hold it between my thump and index finger at a 45* angle using the edge/side lip and get to rubbing with the penny. Being that copper cladding is softer than the steel it won’t damage the finish and the edge of the penny will do a more efficient job of removing larger pieces/areas of rust. Then when I’m done I wipe down the surface with an alcohol prep, gauze and alcohol (denatured works best) or a mild degreaser. Finally, I will wipe down the entire surface with a silicon clothe or rag with CLP.
I make sure I have an older all copper penny.
Be sure it's a pre-1982 copper penny. The pre-1982 pennies are 95% copper, the modern pennies after the year 1982 are 97.5% zinc and only 2.5% copper and will damage your rifle's finish.
...just make sure to use a wheat penny to be sure. They were made with 100% copper. ..who even knows what modern pennys are made of
BRILLIANT! Thanks :)
A pre-1983 penny will be even better since it's not only copper-clad, but copper.
Brass brush followed up with bore solvent works even easier. The solvent is designed for copper fouling and removes the brass stain easily. Just wipe with oil and you’re done!
I dont know why people say that they can remove the rust but preserve the finish.
To me the finish is the protective coating over the bare metal.
If there is rust the finish is already compromised. The metal needs to have a protective coating put back on after removing the rust
Excellent point.
Roger that.
I was afraid this was way too easy.
Yes I agree , but after you remove the rust you also have pits left behind
You provided a response to your original statement. In using the brass brush rust was removed. Since the brass left the bluing the finished was preserved. Where there was rust there was no finish left to preserve. "To me the finish is the ..." Not only to you but in fact the finish, blued, browned or otherwise is the protection of the bare steel. Maybe the poster will make a video on how to repair patches with no finish using cold bluing.
In the Army, we used a #2 pencil. The graphite does an incredible job of removing rust with no damage to the finish.
How do you use it?
@@americanpie123break apart the pencil, take out the graphite rod, break it into small shards/dust, grab a rag or something you dont care about, and rub it in hard for a few minutes. if you leave the graphite dust on it, itll help protect from rust spots too.
@@TH_unspecificVery interesting, I'm going to try it... Thanks 👍🇺🇲
@@TH_unspecific Not much of a graphite rod. #2 means it's 20% graphite, the other 80% is clay.
@@GoodisBest4u ⬆
I always used a pre-82' real copper penny and gun oil, lubing the rusted area and rubbing the penny on the barrel till the rust comes off, works perfectly.
I have "Chore Boy" brand scrubbing pads that I use to get lead fouling out barrels. They are 100% copper. I imagine that would work as well, and you could cover a larger area with each swipe. I think I will try that, and the brass brush idea on a "new", 80 year old Savage Model 5 that I just bought. I will see which works better. Thanks for the tips
Nice, dude!! Thanks man
I literally did the exact same thing to a mossberg 500 today.60 yo original shotgun looked rough but the penny worked..
Using the penny has always worked the best for me too.
I literally sand tf outta pits on the barrel
For those wondering why the wool removed the red oxide but not the black oxide it's because black iron oxide is very hard while the red isn't. In fact black iron oxide is used to coat drill bits to extend their lifespan.
what the heck I didn’t expect to see a podawful fan here lol
H2BH
@@AssMcBlast H2BH
Black oxide is what bluing is.
There is also brass wool & graphite (pencil "lead") works very well too for surface rust & minor pitting.
There is also the theory to never use a nonferrous brush, as the brush leave particles of a dissimilar metal on the steel. Moisture could cause galvanic corrosion to occur between the two metal particles. Of course, moisture would eventually cause oxidation anyway, so whatever.
One actual tip though. With a wire brush (or any stiff material) the natural springing back and forth of the bristle tips create the cleaning action. Once bent the tips aren't aligned and are less effective. If you are bearing down and bend the bristles, you are pressing to hard.
well, you know.........
That's why you remove the metal particles, something like a bore cleaner will react with Copper/Bronze/Brass and dissolve it down to inert levels.
Great tip. I live on the Pacific Northwest coast where rust is a big problem with blued gun metal. They also sell copper wool that works very well. The biggest concern with that much rust pitting is what the inside of the bore looks like, hopefully the rifling is not to bad.
go hawks
I live near the ocean. Going back to the late 1970's, I invested in silicone treated gun wiping/cleaning cloth(s) and silicone treated gun socks - both are inexpensive.
After cleaning or periodic wiping down, place silica gel packets - they're also inexpensive - in every case, safe, or drawer in which you've got a firearm stored. I rotate the silica packets about every other year.
30ea., 20 gram, food grade packets, I put two - 1 top, 1 bottom - in every soft rifle case and pistol case. The packets will set cha back a whopping $1.50 each and are - trust me - worth every penny.
I do electrical work and almost every light fixture comes with multiple silica packs. I save every single one and put them in my gun safes, ammo cans, tool box drawers, etc.
.. a great idea, but also, it's a good idea to inspect and oil firearms annually even if they are unused to check for signs of rust, and prevent it
Boat propeller paint, airplane propeller paint, and Tremclad or Rustoleum black metal paint in either gloss or matte. They all can be used to paint a firearm “instead of” bluing.
~Another thing is when you’re handling gun oil or toxic solvents then wear disposable “nitrile gloves” (they come in boxes of 50 or 100. I use XL size). Do not do it with your bare hands because toxic poisons can be absorbed through the skin.
From my experience, even cloth or a brush made from something softer than the steel still picks up oxidized particles that have the potential to scratch the finish. I use the pre-82 copper penny trick with a liberal amount of oil to float the particles away.
Cloth made from plant fibre (cotton and Linen) contains a small amount of Silicon" based crystals.
Paper seems to contain more, which is why you can also use paper for some polishing operations.
Boiling the part in distilled water will "convert" the red rust ro "black" rust, which is what "Blueing" is.
And "blueing' like phosphating is fundamentally intended to be a coating that holds oil, thus preventing / slowing corrosion.
Use a 50/50 mix of plain old white vinegar and water. Let the rusted object sit submerged for 2 to 3 days. The rust will just fall off. You can also place the object in a container or zip lock bag with b b,s or gravel, shaking the bag several times daily to clean off the heavy rust. This works great also to remove rusted motorcycle gunk out of gas tanks, using gravel, shaking daily. After several days, metal will be completely free of rust at the microscopic level without any abrasive action, aside from shaking the bag. Simply wash with soapy water, then rinse clean with just water, then a cloth dipped in linseed oil. Any painted surface will not be damaged by the mild white vinegar. If worried about damaging vintage paint, don’t use the b.b/gravel part. Just remember, after the rust has been removed, the metal will rust again without some sort of protectant applied. This is the best on things like old antique rusty painted metal you don’t want damaged. Cheap, effective and completely non abrasive if skipping the b.b/gravel part. Works like magic.
First, degrease thoroughly.
Use a fine steel brush instead to remove all the flaky rust (gently), do not use any oils at that stage.
With something like a barrel, boil a pot of water and then run the part over the steam. That will convert the rust to black iron oxide (bluing). Once cooled, gently rub the blackened part with a fine wire brush or steel wool again to remove the loose black oxide.The process may have to be repeated with heavily rusted parts, you want to remove the rust to close to the surface as it will not penetrate heavy rust flakes but the point is you do NOT want to remove the rust completely, you want to convert it. Smaller parts may be boiled in a pot of water for 5 minutes or so. After you are done soak the part(s) in kerosene for a day. They can then be dried and oiled.
That is the way to properly preserve a rusted firearm. Simply brushing the rust off and then applying oil does not remove the rust, though it may look black after oiling, the rust is still there.
What is the purpose of the boiling?
@David Wang toothbrush would take too damn long
Underrated comment.
@@korkser Are you in THAT much of a hurry to NOT preserve the barrel?
@@korkser This is one of those 'jobs' where you need to sit down on your patio or back porch and take the time to do what is needed to stop any further damage to a gun which has meaning for you or at least to stop any further damage to it.
It's either worth it or not, and if not then give it to someone who is willing to put in the time to save it from decaying any further.
Hardly a secret. Been doing similar for 40 years, using any brass tool - brushes, commercially available brass pick and scrapers, and my favorites, either pure brass wool or a .308 brass case cut in half and smashed flat. Works like a charm. Just make sure your brushes are not brass coated steel - many are and that will ruin you day. If you insist on a brush I highly recommend the 24 pack of wood handled brushes available from the same source, for just over 50 cents each.
Awesome, thanks for watching!
@@BigSamMosinMuseum I have been doing this for a long time and what I find that works even better is an old pure copper penny or at the very least a piece of copper tubing but an old copper penny made in the US before whatever date it was before they put everything in it will take off all the rust and it will not hurt the Finish whatsoever I have been doing this for a long time and it works like a charm pure copper better than brass trust me it does work
Feel free to share this is vice but it's getting harder and harder to find wheat back pennies but I think copper tubing might work as well but wheat back pennies is what I've always used and it's really good especially when they're very badly pitted but you don't want to take off the finished you cannot ruin the finish with that
@@mikewolfdog3083
excellent use of a penny with a lubricant for discovered rust. a friend stored his 92F in a sheepskin pistol case for a season. an old gunsmithing book had subject material on this as stated before. fortunately the rust eas only surface and not deep. this addition of a brass brush was neato. THANKS Big Sam!!!
@@mikewolfdog3083 US pennies prior to 1982 are made of 97% copper. 1982 to current are Zinc with a copper layer.
Found some light rust on my rilfe. Took a brass tooth brush and some hoppe's nitro solvent and went to work. Put some gun oil on it as done in the video above. When I was finished the rusted spot was unnoticeable, almost undetectable. The blue finish was still there, as in the video.
PB blaster is really good for removing rust in tight places, also with the brush. I’m almost finished restoring a Revelation 350 shotgun, nothing worked in the trigger assembly. Could not open the barrel. Thanks to PB blaster.
I have restored and repaired multiple guns and while the video actually shows one of the possible ways to get rid of the rust, that's by no mean the less invasive and it DOES NOT guarantee that the finish will not come over - especially with rust pits like those. And it may also leave scratch marks on the weapon, although very light ones.
Methods to get rid of the rust of a firearm (From the least aggressive to the most aggressive)
1)Boiling the part. It's really time consuming but relatively simple. Just boil the part for enought time to remove the rust.
2) Rub it with soda. Soda is lightly abrasive and can slowly remove the rust.
3)Electolysis. Immerge the part in a water container filled with salt and water and trigger the reaction by connecting a car battery to the system (+ terminal to the part, - terminal to a metal rod that hangs on the container)
4) Hydrochloric acid. That's kinda aggressive. Just put the part into a container full of acid. This will remove all the rust. Beware: It may leave the a mate like finish on the part if you keep it too long in the solution.
5) Brushing and grinding. I would advice you not to use this one. The probability to leave marks is extremely high.
I've been wondering about the electrolysis method for gun parts, but I'm concerned that the process may be damaging to the integrity of the steel. I've used electrolysis for cleaning lots of rusted tools, and while it removes any rust (and finish), it leaves the metal a different color than it would be if it were just the bare metal. I believe the process does harm the metal somewhat. On a side note, instead of using salt, washing soda (not baking soda), sodium carbonate, works much better I've found.
Use a STAINLESS STEEL WOOL pad and your favorite gun oil. It will remove the rust without damaging the bluing. Been doing that for over 40 years.
If i use the steel wool pads i go for the very fine 0000 ones with mild pressure applied by hand with oil, they seem not to damage finish, but still think the brass would be my best choice.
Thank you both for the tips
4/0steel wool and 30 weight oil.or gear lube even,works great and even seems to restore bluing.
@@bruceweaver9514 I used 4/O steel wool with Rem Oil on surface rust on a Marlin Model 60 and worked great.
If you use a bronze wool pad you can give it a nice hard scrubbing without worrying about damage
Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner does the same thing, but little pieces can be pulled off and used to run through the bore to remove lead fouling very well. I like brass brushes also.
That Frontier pad is wonderful stuff.
This method can have fine results. Something to watch for is that the tiny particles from off the rusted surface can embed in the brush tips and make scratches in steel. I like the pre-82' penny idea. I'll try that later.
How did it go
@@benedettogee Yeah how did it go? we want answers! lol
for flat metal? Pennys are free and unbeatable. Use an oil. For pitted surfaces? The brush is best.
I’ve always used baking soda mixed with water to make a slurry then scrub with a plain old tooth brush it’s worked pretty well for me on surface rust I’ll try this on deep pits.
Also, for relly deep rust, you can use a thin slurry ade from Baking Soda and White vinegar! It will really eat the rust away down to the bare metal which is what you want, otherwise, you haven't removed ALL the rust!
Will it also remove the black finish on an Ak?
I’ve been shooting my entire Life ….. this is all news to me !!! I love to learn new techniques to treat my firearms. Thank You for Your content.
GOD Bless You and Your’s ….. Happy 😊 Thanksgiving !!!
❤️🇺🇸🌞
You can remove all the rust using many different types of cleaning solutions. There are solutions in many categories, everything from household, firearm , automotive and even Tool/ hardware solvents that will completely remove rust. They will also do so with nothing more than a cotton rag while not leaving behind non ferrous metal behind in the puts of the steel.
There is a chemical that will literally boil the rust off of the metal, but you will need to go over the barrel with cold blue afterwards. I have used it on old shotguns before and it works really well.
Can you recall the name of that chemical?
@@Lee-fi4vo I can't remember the name of it but I purchased it at Ace hardware. I want to say it was made by loctite but I'm not sure.
Motor oil and triple O steel wool worked on a used lever gun I bought.
You can also use oil and a 0000 steel wool pad and it will remove rust. This is how I clean them and it works.
How long does it take you? I've been working for hours.
Yes. This would be a MUCH MORE safer option than this much brass scratching. Electrolysis is even better.
2 months later of using the steel wool method. Not even a dent in the rust. Doesn't work.
@@Pineapple-co6fe it depends on how much rust it has. Oil the rusted area and scrub with the 0000 pad then wipe off with a rag. Repeat this until it's to your satisfactory. 👍
@@AXNJXN1 it always works for me. 👍
I have learned to never grab the gun by the barrel . The salt in your sweat will start the rust and if put away like that . Wipe with light oil before storage . Your advice is good .
The best way to deal with a situation that this gentleman is showing is I use stainless steel brushes to get all the rust off and yes there are going to be pit holes left in the metal then what you do is you fill the pit holes with J-B Weld is nice and black sanded all down to a smooth finish and then I use a nice cold bluing process to reblue the metal and in the end you have a smooth surface the pit holes are filled and the Finish is still preserved and by the way when you fill the pit holes with metal it cuts off the air so that the compromised metal will not oxidize any further that is the best way to treat a situation like what this gentleman is showing and when looking at the gun that looks a lot better than rough pit hold just left in the bare metal not to mention after you blew it the J-B Weld and the bluing are darn near the same color so what you end up with is a perfect repair then after it is all done if you really want to keep the gun from ever resting again wipe all the barrel down with dailies been matte finish and let it Harden for a couple of days then you will never ever have Rust ever again on your firearms and they will look like a brand-new hot bluing has been done
That sounds more like proses an old gun restorer I knew used along with the draw filing. He would also rub the fine file with a piece of blackboard chalk
I would have wrapped the oxidized area with a shop towel soaked with Evaporust. Then, after about 24 hours, as EVR leaves a slightly grayish finish, bring it back with a muslin buff and black emery compound. This does not remove the original finish. I restore and refurbish vintage machinery. Light industrial. This happens on a daily basis. Good luck.
Evaporust! Always have a jug of it in the shop,! Great stuff. Since I’m working on firearms- usually smaller parts - I dunk them and reuse the evaporust. Will have to keep your wet rag technique in mind for larger projects. Thanks
clean your weapon, polish the parts and apply the molybdenum disulphide spray grease with a cotton cloth over the entire weapon without using oil, you will have a weapon that is dry to the touch but perfectly hydrated, remember that the oil from the skin with sweat makes rust so use the patch with the grease you used without adding more to remove your oil from the surface, I have a patch that I use to clean the slide of my glock with the same grease I put on 4 years ago!! I use this grease on my Browning Gold, on my American Ruger and on my Glock and I assure you that after understanding how to use the grease, the oil will disgust you!!
No, the answer is to clean the metal with acetone, boil the piece in distilled water for 30-45 minutes, and then use a carding wheel. If you're not going to convert the rust, you might as well sandblast it.
use gun oil and 0000 steel wool and lightly rub. The 0000 steel wool is fine enough to really not scratch and the oil makes it easier to remove the rust.
Been doing that for years back when I had an FFL, and was buying milsurp firearms. Would always disassemble and do any necessary repairs, then go over the metal with what you posted.
It would be an amazing thing if you were the John Halpin I knew years ago in USAFSS. But somebody told me he died🤷♂️
@@alanbud5181 yeah that for surface rust and not wanting to remove the bluing or scratch it pitted rust is another story really can't remove the pitting but can improve the finish and polish making it less noticeable
I find soaking the rust spot in penetrating oil for 30 minutes or so helps soften the rust also.
This is fine for common guns I suppose, but "Converting" by boiling the rusted parts in water for hard to reach rust will completely preserve the remaining original blueing and is how anything worth preserving should be handled. It will get to the bottom of pits that you can't get to with a brush. I can't imagine that a brush won't take off some original blueing. See: Mark Novak / Anvil ..It's only original once.
This here!
Use gun oil and the brush at the same time. Works much better than brushing dry steel.
Great tip for cleaning rusted barrels I have used a brass brush for years and it has always worked for me. Thanks and I subscribed to your channel.
Gunner Newman
great job ! I took this a step further . For the pitting a fine grit oscillating sander - All pitting was eventually gone !
It's important to note that using a brass brush can result in the unfinished (bare) metal being exposed. This is not because the brush removed the finish but because the rust had already eaten away at the finish and the brush is merely exposing that.
So are you saying to apply oil regularly on the exposed metal?
Ballistol regularly will displace the Hyrdoscopic substances on the metal and will not harm leatherm wood, or other non metal parts of your firearm.
@@NgJackal1990 use furniture paste wax to protect the metal. works better lasts longer and won't gum up the action by attracting dust and dirt.
That's what I have been wondering. It seems that the rust would have to eat through the finish to get to the metal, so when you remove the rust, you are left with bare metal. Would you recommend re-blueing that part?
On my rifle barrel, I just used a kitchen scouring pad to get the worst of the rust off then washed the area over with a lick of rust convertor. It has never rusted since.
A another method I did not read here and have not seen in a few gun videos I have seen, is using a rouge jewelers rouge, ,they come in a various grades, but red or white will work and a buffing wheel or possibly just a pad or gauze on a sander or gauze on a palm sander? rub, the rouge on the rust into a thick layer, buff slowly and keep repeating until the rust and the pits are gone, I have not used this on guns per se a lot ,but worked daily final finishing auto glass like this and used it for yrs doing high end ornamental brass hand rails etc. never had any issues with this and & removes pitting, scratches in everything from LG. glass to jewelry.
Another oddball flashback ,as a kid had a neighbor who always cleaned our guns and would soak a nylon stocking in what I suppose was hoppes red oil and after cleaning would slip the gun in the stocking and let it sit while he cleaned something else:)used a diaper to wiper it after he removed the stocking ,it would also seem obvious to me now a days if I were storing guns in a gun cabinet it would have some sort of dehumidifier in it? Thanks Peace. Rick
With rust pitting that deep who caresabout the finish It needs to be reblued any way.
Exellant! I was thinking you had a new way. This is what I've done in the past. I'm open to different ways of caring for my guns and some think a brass bore brush will harm a bore. But, it won't!
Light rust can be removed with white vinegar also.
Very useful video. My son inherited a couple of long guns from a grandparent, and they may need a bit of this treatment.
I have a Remington model 12a bought at a farm auction. The barrel was not pitted, rusty but not severe. I applied gun oil and let it soak for a while, then, wiped with gun patches. That removed the surface rust sufficiently leaving a nice somewhat blue patina.
Evap o rust works amazing and leaves a protective coating. No abrasives neccessary
It also removes bluing as bluing is a form of rust.
@@Backin_Theday it doesn't remove the phosphate coatings on AR barrels..
@@hstetser5376 Well thats good to know but bluing is a form of rust and evapo will work good at removing it. I have used it to give one of my Italian copies of a Remington 1858 a distressed antique look. Looks legitimately like a vintage gun until you see the markings up close.
This does not stop active rust. It temporarily delays further decay, but more rust will begin again in time. The only way to stop it is to covert iron oxide to ferro ferric oxide through heat
I might suggest using vinegar to convert the rust to an oxide after scraping. Then apply your CLIP
Rub an old Copper penny along the rusted area. The copper in the penny will safely remove the rust and leave the metal alone.
Holsters, particularly leather ones but also the black fabric kind can rust your handgun. I leave my handguns out of their holsters most of the time.
Yep most holsters chrome tanned leather cause the rust, $$$ you get vegetable tanned. No rust issues.
Leather retains moisture/doesnt breath.
I restored My friends grandfathers winchester 30-30 lever ..I used fine sandpaper and sreel wool ..dont worry about the finish ..i then used BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUN BLUE ..use water wet steel ..put on gun blue then wipe off ...buff and repeat ..untill blue is unifom ..it came out beatifull ..I also REBLUED my Dads old ORGTIES .25 pistol which had lost most of its bluing came out fantastic
Wipe your firearms down every time you use them. Coat them lightly with oil or even gun grease when they are to be stored for any length of time, will avoid this. If you buy a used firearm that has a spot on it clean it to bare metal then reblue it.
There is a product called "Cosmoline" which the military has used for years to preserve weapons in storage. It contains a penetrating oil and rust removers/inhibitors and leaves a waxy coating witch must be removed before using the weapon. Comes in a spray can, and is available directly from the manufacturer by mail. It has a strong odor of spearmint and has many other uses
I bought a pretty rough model 94. Sent it to a gun smith and it looked brand new. He Cleaned it, fixed the trigger, replaced the barrel and he re blued the new barrel. With the right gunsmith they can bring anything back to life.
😅@@barneylinet6602
I havent had any pitting on my firearms, but I found spraying the gun down with WD-40 and scrubbing it with paper towels aggressively took all the surface rust off after my gun bag got wet in the woods.
step 1 . boil the barrel in distilled water. step 2. 0000 steel wool lightly rub soaked in gun oil . your done . gets rid of active rust and neutralizes it while creating black oxide rust which is inactive preserving the finish
Any reason I shouldn't do this to a hand gun slide?
Trying to remove rust by abrasion may not be the best way to go. There are many videos using a conversion process that changes the oxydation state back to blue from red rust. Bluing is a rust process. The example shown in this video is a fine candidate for conversion. Look for videos by ANVIL, Mark Novak.
"Do The Maintenance" - Mark Novak
Great video Big Sam! Being in the swampy part of Texas I tend to see a lot more rust than I'd like to.
Just a suggestion" I use this on the stock and outer barrel of my rifle avocado oil ,I like the results
A few drops of CLP and a brass brush. Give it time. Chemical reactions caused the rust, let chemical reactions dissolve the rust.
Also. Polishing the pitted area with some compound and a soft pad will help smooth the surface which will help prevent rust in the future.
That has to be completely finished to bare metal and reblued preferably hot blued. To be protected correctly.
Use steam for about 45 minutes, then brush off the byproducts afterwards, this is a much more efficient way to ensure that the whole gun is totally free from corrosion. It’s basically just the last half of the rust bluing process that most of these guns were originally finished with. Red rust is a byproduct of an oxidation process, but if you get red rust to oxidize, you’re left with black oxide, which is all bluing is. Natural rust *usually* doesn’t convert into finish, because the grain size of natural rust is typically too large. Look up Mark Novak to see it actually done.
If Mr. Rogers had a TH-cam gun channel. Great stuff Big Sam. Thanks for the tip!
Big frontier 45 metal cleaner is magical. It does not remove the finish. And it can be used to clean the inside of the barrel as well. I love it. Brass works too but big frontier 45 is far better.
The led in a #2 pencil works very well cold blueing and polish with flitz polishing compound
Copper Penny's 1981 or older.
Work vary well on surface rust, lube affected area first with gun oil. The brush is needed for pits. Rust can scratch blueing if wiped on to non affected area. It is best to lubricant rust area first before brushing,or wiping after brushing.
Gun oil first/ any lube first.
Bronze wool works as well. Just fully disassembled and fully reassembled an old Higgins 1 shot break barrel 12 gauge that was a complete rust bucket throughout
Im onto this very quickly. When I get in from shooting I’ll rub it with an old copper penny. But it is nowhere near as bad as the rust on your guns. And then I use gun oil to cover the barrel. Constantly doing this seems to keep them in good condition.
Glad I live in Arizona, about 95% of the used guns at my local shops never have rust on them thanks to living in the desert.
Right on!!!
I use an empty brass shell to "Erase" the rust and also the brass brush. Nitro solvent to clean off the brass and some cold bluing to make it look nice. Something every gun owner should know.
I always keep my guns along with a bunch of desiccant containers I change out every few months. No moisture, NO RUST. Great maintenance post. That big pit on that first barrel gives me great concern. I would be reluctant to use it anymore. Thanks again.
Not sure why I haven't seen more of it or why it isn't more common to use a pencil. The graphite of a pencil will remove the rust, apply a protective coating to the steel, and not hurt the finish of the firearm in any way. In my experience, a mechanical pencil with a 0.7mm point works best. This has worked on polished, blued, parkerized, stainless steel, and other coatings and metals.
B2 soft graphite pencil lead? Do you remove the rust by covering it, or does it come off?
@@justnoted2995 it removes the rust. The tip of the pencil "lead"is hard enough to remove rust and the bit that is ground down can be rubbed into the metal to apply the graphite as a protective layer.
Turpentine and pumice dust will remove rust and where the finish is gone it will leave the metal dull gray, it fades from blue to dull gray. It will not remove the blue.
Also use furniture paste wax instead of oil to protect the finish from moisture and grease instead of oil to lucubrate moving parts. They will stop most rust before it starts.
Keep telling my friend this and this is what I always used since I was 15 am 44 now he says yous steel wool I said ok I'll use it on your firearms but not mine , Mr know it alls right 😂 lol
For any old gun restoration, 0000 steel wool will not harm any remaining bluing, and Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner rust and dirt remover is a must for cleaning a bore!!!!!!! Look it up! I have restored several old guns. Save your old gun cleaning brushes and use them with the later! Amazing results! Lots of time on the internet to come across that! ;)
Anybody Who has neglected Their rifle to that extent, or buys one that turns out to be in this condition should be ready to do some refinishing, that being said a powered wire wheel of a finer wire size will reach down into the rust fissures, taking away more oxidation, and should be followed up with Brownells Oxpho Blue, which converts the finest oxidation to bluing, followed up with washing away with very hot water, to dry, and oiling with a good gun oil.....I have 30 years of experience with this method, with no re-occurance of the rust....I am Canadian, I do not work for Brownells....
Had a roommate invited him to live with me cause he didn't have anywhere to go and we grew up together. Sold me his Mossberg pump for rent wasn't worried about it, let him keep it in this room under his bed. Had a guy offered a trade for a Browning buckmark 22 when to get the shotgun rested so bad you couldn't even rack the action. Turned out,my buddy was an adult bed-wetter rusted the hell out of that shotgun. 😡 Needless to say I was pissed.
So was the gun
Frontier 45 steel brush works well. Will not hurt the bluing.
I was expecting something that literally everyone didn't already know. Thanks!
Thanks for the info my flintlock barrel is all rusty after using it for the late season this year. Definitely will be trying this on it thank you!!!!
Great vid , TY ! Gotta say seeing pitting and rust gave me anxiety because I’m OCD about cleaning and caring for my weapons. I use my firearms and nothing is made to stay in the safe that I have .
I like the Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner and foaming gun cleaner (bore) with a nylon brush. There's an Elite kit with more.
Anyone used any Metalloid products like Green Gun Oil, Metcor57, Bore Shield, etc? I just did some guns with them, they look good. The gun oil did clean very well. Supposedly 4 years protection with BS and Duck Hunters Delight.
This is the exact approach to take with old firearms, like mil surp Mosins and Mausers as you show.
You can use Blaster PB Penetrating Oil which will eat the rust then use Dupont Rust Inhibitor which will kill the rust and turn it black.
Take the gun apart, steam or boil for 20-30 min. Then card it. Boiling turns the rust to iron oxide, card it once the biggest loose rust is gone. Then soak it in kerosene overnight, it will blend in with a little time
Thank you so much for sharing. I found your video informative as you just save me from making that exact mistake. Sincerely, thank you again.
Depending on the severity ( light rust ) can be removed with a strip of denim cloth. Just work the cloth over the effected area like shining a shoe.
Currently getting the rust off of my great grandpa’s model 1896 12 gauge Winchester. Thanks for the tips
I’m constantly learning.
Thanks for sharing.
I found a 16 gauge 870 Wingmaster at a local shop with a badly pitted receiver. But the barrel was good and almost no wear on the action. Seemed like it had been barely used since it was made in 1970. It had nice wood and I took it home for $180.
I bead blasted the receiver at work and then cold blued it. Could have had it hot blued and maybe I will someday. Always wondered how it was stored that allowed the receiver to rust while the test of the gun was untouched.
We had a gun in a closet that had a small ankle level vent... (level with the receiver, but the barrels were taller in the closet when we set it down on the stock in a corner - if you can picture it). It stood there for ~20 years w/o much wear... then boom, all at once in a few years the receiver rusted. We theorized it was the slight passage of air from the vent? (But we don't really know either?)
Hot blue draw files hot reblue draw file 500 times till you don't see the pits and use blackboard chalk rubbed across the file. Helps to keep the lines down. It's like chroming then scraping the chrome off but leaving it in the pits. Takes a while but you will be remarkably satisfied. I live on the cold north wet coast seen this more than I want to admit. Had to give up hockey to keep my guns up. Then there are the friend's guns. Next, you have a whole group of friends in your shop draw filing and hot bluing. But none of us know a dam thing about hockey
Will a bronze brush work for this also
Apply good gun oil , at and near rusted area , two to three hours before brushing.
Good Post. Brass is a. Alloy of ZINC and COPPER. Have you ever tried an Aluminum brush ? Aluminum and Rust ( Iron Oxide ) undergo an electrochemical reaction that converts the Rust back to Iron as it converts the Aliminum to Aluminum Oxide. There are lots of Pists that show how to use a car vattery charger and TRUSODIUM PHOSPHATE as an electrolyte. I am still experimenting with different kinds of electrically conducting brushes soaked in TSP, and a car battery charger. But, am looking for a MIRACLE. Once I remove the rust, how do I fill in the pits to return the parts to like-new condition ----》 NO PITS !
ah nostalgia... armory punishment. the hours I've spent brushing barrels of old crew-served weapons to remove the rust.
Steel wool completely saturated with automatic transmission fluid is a very good method too.
I once left a couple blued magazines out in the snow once and then they rusted pretty bad. I hated the way they looked and thought the only way to restore them would be to take them to a gunsmith and have them re-blued. Shortly after that I learned this trick and felt like an idiot. That gunsmith was nice and charged me a fair price but it was still a lot more money than a $1 bronze brush.
I haven't seen rust like that on my firearm, or even my shovel. Holy crap that's a lot of neglect.
The Mosin-Nagant dates back to the late 1800s and has been used in pretty much every war since it was first produced, including the one in Russia-Ukraine. Some of these were hidden in walls, lost in trenches, or sat forgotten in grandpas basement for years; so it figures there would be a lot of rust. Its usually less neglect and more "I forgot".
A copper brush (any non ferrous material) is part of the job but the cleaning afterward is important. I like to use a gun oil list Palistol
A carpenters pencil those wide flat ones .
Is just enough grit to do smaller areas and with time an patience larger ones .