Diagnose a Worn Front Hub or Bad CV 2000-2006 Suburban, Tahoe, Silverado *READ DESCRIPTION *DANGER*
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OK, there are many comments that it is dangerous to drive with the axle nut removed. THIS MAY BE TRUE. I am just stating what has worked for me in the past when you have a 'hard to diagnose' hub bearing. Now if your hub bearing is completely wiped out, it should be easy to find without having to remove the axle nut or driving without it. For me, most of the time, I was able to diagnose the bad hub bearing simply by jacking up the front end and attempting to 'lift' the wheel either up and down or in and out. Doing so usually will reveal the 'play' in the bad bearing. However, on 3 occasions, I had a bad bearing that had no play using the standard method. The first revealed itself after removal of the axle nut and using the procedure I just described. The second and third did not have any play and my only option was to give it a quick drive, nothing more than a half mile or so, and nothing high speed. I did this method without incident and was able to diagnose the bad bearing. I understand that ,many feel this is unsafe, therefore I am not telling anyone to do it, just letting you know what my experience has been. Proceed at you own risk using the method you feel most comfortable with. After reading the comments, I will try to exhaust all options before trying this method again. It is my opinion, the reason why I was able to do this without any unwanted failure, was that the bearing was still 'tight' and in good enough condition other than making the rotational groan. In both instances there was little to no play in the bad bearing.
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OK, there are many comments that it is dangerous to drive with the axle nut removed. THIS MAY BE TRUE. I am just stating what has worked for me in the past when you have a 'hard to diagnose' hub bearing. Now if your hub bearing is completely wiped out, it should be easy to find without having to remove the axle nut or driving without it. For me, most of the time, I was able to diagnose the bad hub bearing simply by jacking up the front end and attempting to 'lift' the wheel either up and down or in and out. Doing so usually will reveal the 'play' in the bad bearing. However, on 3 occasions, I had a bad bearing that had no play using the standard method. The first revealed itself after removal of the axle nut and using the procedure I just described. The second and third did not have any play and my only option was to give it a quick drive, nothing more than a half mile or so, and nothing high speed. I did this method without incident and was able to diagnose the bad bearing. I understand that ,many feel this is unsafe, therefore I am not telling anyone to do it, just letting you know what my experience has been. Proceed at you own risk using the method you feel most comfortable with. After reading the comments, I will try to exhaust all options before trying this method again. It is my opinion, the reason why I was able to do this without any unwanted failure, was that the bearing was still 'tight' and in good enough condition other than making the rotational groan. In both instances there was little to no play in the bad bearing.
Please read edited description.
Can you tell me what size socket is for the axle. (the part inside the wheel) thx
I once had a half shaft fail, and I didn't give any serious thought to the axle nut, it was just easier to leave the outside end attached for my emergency removal to get it home. It was a year or so later before I actually got around to replacing the shaft to pull down a tree with 4WD.
But could you explain to me why running the axle nut off even matters with the whole shaft out?? The axle nut holds the shaft. Shaft not there.... Hub attaches to knuckle, tire attached to hub...😒
Try just loosening the nut a turn or 2. At least the wheel would stay on
Had the same exact problem. Constant moaning was driving me nuts! Got a good divorce attorney and bingo!...no more moaning or whining while driving.
That is priceless
😂😂😂
There's always gotta be a clown
@@willsummers1245 Laughter is the best medicine.
Yup, nothing worse than an overbearing wife...
That is what a mechanic said to me I had a new bearing for him to replace. "I do not think this bearing is bad" there is no play in it. Now what you found out should be the way the mechanic shows you it is bad. Great video thanks! My right front has been making that noise it start around 40 mph now it is like a knocking sound around 20 mph.
Thanks for watching.
Oh man, after 4 years of your video it helps me out to fix the same problem that I got in my 97 ford expedition....it's the same set up as your suburban
Thanks for watching
Best part was when you explained about freeing up the CV shaft so you can feel the play in the wheel. I am trying this tomorrow afternoon! I have a bearing noise that sounds like the drivers side front and my wheel does not to seem to have any play so this may explain why. Thanks for taking the time to post this very helpful video.
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you Sir!My daughter's Chevy Trail Blazer is having the same symptoms.I'm sure by using your steps I'll be able to find the problem and correct it!!
Thanks for watching.
Best diagnosis I have seen. Absolutely same issue on 2013 Sierra 4x4 and I have replaced struts, rotors, tires (all needed replacement) but still have same noise. That is exactly what I havent done. Thanks brother
Shane
PLEASE read the warning in the description. I never had an issue, but some commentors claim they have.
@@AxlesGarage no worries brother, great video for diagnosis. Not gonna drive it but removing axle nut to check before full blown replacement without knowing the exact problem. Thanks
Glad to help
Great tip for loosening the axle nut. Makes complete sense but never heard anyone mention it before!
Glad to help
Great video. Thank you. My dad's Suburban Needs a Wheel Bearing Replaced. Next week, I'm tackling it.
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
You we’re a lucky man. I pulled both axel shafts as I was waiting for a replacement front diff due to excessive hum. Did a very short test drive a few blocks and heard noise from front end . Pulled over and to my surprise both hub assemblies were pulling out of the hub, only thing stopping it was the break rotors. Thank god I was not on the road at Highway speed. Could have been very bad accident for me or other people. Ended up putting in large bolts and washers to hold the hub assembly’s in place. Lesson learned how not to do things. I was very lucky indeed.
I usually drive it just a few blocks for diagnosis, never had an issue. That's why there is a warning in the description and pinned comment. Usually if what you describe happens, the hub bearing where loose and shot pretty bad and you should be able to diagnose it without driving.
Thank you for the video .... my 2012 Chevy truck is having the exact same problem as you described. Thank you for doing the leg work ,,, or wheel work as it were ... Thanks again!
Glad it helped
What an excellent video; learned a few things here,you covered everything (even the first error...).
1: loosen the big nut, five or 6 turns,back off the shaft, and *then* shake the wheel to see if it is loose, no need to remove the axle shaft at first.
2: i am quite sure that the axle shaft can never make the rumble noise a bad bearing makes; CV joint noises are totally different ones;
3: if you don't do the nr. 1, it is still a great idea to remove the axle shaft, then spin the wheel , it could be the bearing inside the diff. making the noise.
...and #4, in these era vehicles, it's almost always the hub bearing.
Just purchased a 2003 Yukon w/150K miles, pristine condition, but noted exactly what your video here was about.
Soooo, needless to say I am woefully late to viewing this video from when you posted it, but that you very much for your post.
I am now subscribed, bell icon, and a big thumbs up...
Great video, thank you sir.
Had a 2004 Yukon XL, bought with 130K,
Excellent condition, while traveling at 70mph a deer committed suicide into the front of the rig, totaled it out...
These rigs are great, inexpensive (for the most part), and are great traveling vehicles
Thanks for the sub, we have lots of Tahoe/Suburban and Yukon videos and just bought another Yukon, so many more to come. As for this video, please see the danger notice in the description and pinned comment.
@@AxlesGarage
Hahaha..! Re:disclaimer “pinned”...
Message received...
That kinda looked like inner/outer tie rod play, but it looks like more play than that. Definitely looks like the hub. Thanks for the video.
God bless you and your family.
Thanks for watching!
Sir, you just saved me a couple of bucks and time with my truck on the shop, thanks a lot.
Glad to help
I want to thank this guy he was very helpful to me to figure out what really could be he explained everything pretty good to me
Glad I could help!
Thanks alot ! My 2002 yukon xl makes the very same sound on the drivers side . Only this time I will check they wheel play with that axle shaft nut removed ! I replaced both front wheel hubs last year with Moog hubs and still had the sound right away but only on the drivers side. Thanks again for the good info.
Glad we could help, thanks for watching
Thank you brother from deep in the Montana Rocky Mountains I truly thank you
Glad we could help, Thanks for watching.
Excellent job. Love the extra explanation. Have same issue just need to find time to replace. Keep up the great work. Helped me a lot.
S St does yours make I popping noise when you hit a bump on the drivers side ?
Glad we could help
Hub bearing are normally stacked angular contact bearings with joined outter races but seperate inner races. Angular contact bearing are designed for side lodes, unlike ball bearings which are not. The reason why you can feel the play with the axle nut removed is that the inner races are no longer under tension.
OK, a bit over my head, but, why then is there No play when a new bearing is installed before axle nut is put back on?
Radio silence on that eh? @@AxlesGarage
Man I have this EXACT same issue in my 04 suburban. Same noise, same symptom I turn right and the noise goes away and I’ve always been told that means it’s the wheel bearings that’s being unloaded so I replaced the passenger one like you did. No change. Luckily I decided to just do both anyway and ordered a driver side so hopefully that fixes my issue.
Best of luck, 'they' say that the hub should be replaced in pairs.
thanks, no nonsense video, no stupid music the whole time, explained great!
Be sure to see the warning in the description and pinned comment. Can be dangerous.
Hey man you are a super cool cat. That's probably the best, most explanatory video I have ever seen. And I needed that because my 01 gmc 2500HD is doing the same thing and I'm trying to figure it out. Thanks
Glad you liked it! Just make sure to read the warning in pinned comment and description.
man. great video. had the same prob. thought the bearing was good. checked it the way you said and it was bad. thank you!!!!!!!
Glad it helped, Thanks for Watching.
Your video was very accommodating and very educational ! Great job!
Glad it was helpful!, Please see the pinned comment and description for warnings.
Wow, you provided an excellent video of how to diagnose the problem. Very well down sir!!.
Glad I could help, Thanks for watching.
Only just saw this vid. My comment's late :) Nice to see the thought process, assembly description & the comments. Being lazy myself, I'd use a cheapy, hand held, contactless thermometer, to check hub bearing temps? Can also be used to check eng oil sump, g/box, diffs, cats before & after, radiator top & bottom, alternator bearings, aircon comp bearings.... ;)
Good idea. I too, am lazy but never thought of shooting the wheel hubs (or any other rotating part/s for that mater) with a thermal sensor after warm-up.
Great Idea
Genius!
Excellent video. Exactly what I needed to fix my truck. Thanks.
Glad it helped
this is the easiest test I've seen yet 👍👍
Glad you think so! Please read the info in description for a warning.
Wheel bearing... if it is a steady wine, wheel bearing. It normally gets louder the faster you go...
Good tip, thanks for watching.
I've got the same groan or roar thought it was the hub bearing..now I'm sure as I only have 2wd. Nice video
Thanks for watching.
Same with my avalanche! Great video!
I can’t comment on GM trucks, but doing this on a FWD or AWD Volvo car (former ASE certified master mechanic)is going to result in a lot of play that would be there in a new bearing… not to mention it could come apart (not that you could do this on a FWD car… but you get my point)….. also 𝒖𝒔𝒖𝒂𝒍𝒍𝒚 on the GM trucks of this era, youd get either erratic ABS function (like it going off when your not skidding, and stopping normally), or would have a ABS light on and a code for the side with the bad bearing. Another good help for diagnosing front wheel bearings is the groan/noise will get louder for the opposite side when turning at a decent speed (like >25 mph). Hope that helps.
Thank you for the tips
Good video. I like my bow tie trucks . I just bought one the the fwd is out of order. The full time fwd looks easy.
Just read the warning in description.
going through this with my 99 burb plus I just purchased a 24 foot camper that's when I noticed it at 64mph I went after both u joints (The good quality) ..but after watching this video I'm pretty positive that's the culprit. very informative post you put up also And thanks👍
Glad to help
Working on my 02 chevy thanks, was getting worried nothing looked bad or felt bad, but sounded horrible.
Glad to help
Such a thorough video! Great guy!! Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Please read the warning in the description.
I'm having the same issue I've replaced both cv axles and both wheels bearings and have diagnosed it to be the diff itself. (i believe) I say the because I put my Tahoe in auto 4wd and it became much louder. when I put it in 2wd it became softer but still noticeable
Nice video. I was waiting for him to take his glasses off to see if the nose comes off with it🤣👌
LOL, the nose is attached to the face.
Have to admit this is the best video and better then Scotty's.
Thanks so much for the kind words.
@@AxlesGarage your very welcomed. 😁
Great idea. Brilliant ! Hope this will solve the noise.
Not a good idea
Description has been updated along with pinned comment. We appreciate the input.
I learned more from this video then any other! Thanks
Thanks for watching
Great job on the diagnosis & good tips..!
Just please be careful to read the danger in description and pinned comment
Awesome! Different car but same symptoms. Thank you!
Glad to help
Thanks man great information you gonna save me a lot of time and money with this one😊
Glad I could help, please read the warnings in description and pinned comment.
Thanks buddy for your time..my front driver side is roaring sound think my hub might be bad
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Mine makes a grinding sound driver side when i turn left also.
Yeah, my hub is starting to click. I noticed a little bit of grease out of a boot too
great job.great video. Finding my problem will be easier Thank You
Thanks for watching
Very clever thought process when you eliminated one possible cause of the noise.
Thanks, just be careful. Some commenters have stated that this may be a dangerous way to troubleshoot.
@@AxlesGarage I'm not buying the don't run with scissors you may fall and stab yourself in the heart crowds warning. I suppose if pulled the axles off and went cross country I MIGHT have an issue but having taken the hub assembly off and seeing how it is attached a trip around the block would not be a problem. If you listen to the old ladies that say don't climb that tree you could fall and break your neck you will never see the view from the top of the tree. You were quite clever when you diagnosed the cause of the sound.
Personally, I agree.
It usually it a wheel bearing. I do know though that inside each end of your CV axle. There are ball bearings that rotate. If the boots get cut and dry up of grease. You can hear a rubbing sound cause those bearings are running dry too. In fact even with a wheel hub those bearings are sealed too. They eventually do run out of grease and once they do you start hearing noises.
Easy on the periods, man.
From UAE thank for this useful video 🙏
Thanks for watching.
Wow Should’ve watched his video first before I bought my front differential great job great video
Thanks for Watching.
I know this is an older video. But, my buddy left his 2014 Chevy Silverado 4x4 in AUTO 4wd for about a year+ (in Oklahoma). His front wheel bearings both had to be replaced. Not sure of the mileage on the truck, but would leaving the truck in AUTO 4wd cause the front wheel bearings to fail?
It should not, the bearing spin in 2wd and 4wd just the same.
Thanks for your service sir
Much appreciated
Good video !!!! I have a 02 Avalanche, when i turn to the right i was hereing a grinding noise. Turns out the outter CV shaft boot was ripped
Thanks for watching.
They have what's called half boots, clean and regrease with CV grease, install boot.
Does not need to come out.
My steering didn't start wobbling when accelerating until I hit a big Ol Pothole about 10 inches deep and the whole front end bottomed out, like a big bang. I've got new tires less than a year old, been balanced twice at walmart. I just can't figure it out.
Update
It was a bad cv axle. But I replaced everything but the struts.
First I would start by rotating the tires and see if anything changes, that would rule out a bent wheel or out of balance tire. If nothing changes after that, have a 'good' alignment shop check the front end and align to factory spec, then see where you stand from there. Thanks for watching.
@@AxlesGarageThanks, I did the front to back rotation already, and it helped, but would still do it when accelerating some. I'm thinking I might have messed up the belts one or both tires, cause I hit pretty hard. Plus, when I did have the tires rotated a few months ago, there was one tire that had a nail in the shoulder of the tire, and the tire guy at walmart wouldn't fix it, because it was to close to the side, so I told him I would fix it, and I plugged it, and I'm thinking that I may have messed the tire's belts up, doing it so close to the side, and then hitting that pothole might have done her in. I'm gonna put the front of the car on jack stands, start the engine and let the tires roll and get under and see if I can see anything bent out of shape, or loose. Thanks again!
My son hit a curb with his car. although visually could not see but had replaced the tires and all perfect once again. Expensive lesson.
Good shit brother! Very descriptive!
Thanks, see warning in Pinned Post and Description.
I'm goin through this right now with my '03 1500HD. I think it's a CV joint. I replaced wheel bearing once and it had a lot of play. No play this time. But your axle in bearing test has me thinking. I already ordered hub, cv shaft and sway bar link so i guess i'll see actual culprit when i replace whole shooting match Lol.
Please read the warning in description and pinned comment
That's a creative idea, makes one think about what actually holds a wheel on. Even loosening the axle nut then rechecking for movement while on the stands is likely all one needs. I'll have to try that to get a feel for what is normal. The bearing is still bolted into the knuckle and the wheel, but as you know the wheel bearing can come apart with the extra forces of a moving vehicle, similar to how it may explode with a slide hammer. In the past I've rarely had difficulty diagnosing a bad axle, usually those are obvious at slow speed. But even deciding which wheel bearing is involved can be a challenge.
Yes, can be dangerous to drive without the Axle nut. I've done it several times, but never realized the risk. However, removing the Axle nut to feel for play in the bearing has proved to be very useful.
2006 Silverado 2500HD. 130k miles. After some rough dirt road 4x4 driving, I noticed a higher frequency rotational noise coming from front right side between 50-60mph. Noise stops if I put it into a left turn, but does not stop if I do a right turn. Any ideas? Thank you so much for your video.😊
I would focus on the hub or the cv half shaft.
Did removing the axle shaft throw any codes? I have an '03 Escalade EXT and don't need the AWD feature but I don't want to deal with the warning lights and sounds so just curious. Thanks!
No codes. Just be aware that another commentator stated that if you dive much without the axle installed, the hub bearing may go bad. I don't know how true this is.
Good video man, i have a similar problem on a 2000 z71. The noise is worse when I am turning right though.
Sometimes worse when turning could be CV joints, so check those half-shafts. Thanks for watching
@@AxlesGarage ...how do I check those? Thanks for the tip
Don't know the correct way, and my backyard method is apparently dangerous. I take out the half shaft and go for a slow and very short ride to see if the noise stops. Not recommended.
I have a 1988 K5. Manual locking hubs with ball bearing rings in the hubs. I feel and hear the consistant pulsing/ slight grinding noise/ vibrations between 55 and 65 the most. I know your son has one that you work on often. (Thank you by the way for filming when you do. Very helpful) the noise and vibration seems to be coming from the center of my front end any idea What's causing it?
I would check the differential first. Make sure the fluid is good, or change it and inspect the internals. We are going to do this when the weather breaks. Thanks for watching.
I have the same problem. No play on the wheel but I have that grouwning noise exactly how you made when described it. I'll loosen the nut to see if play is present.Thanks
Thanks for watching.
i don:t care what anybody says, once you loosen that hub nut! you will get play on a brand new car, the nut is there to adjust the bearings.
Thank you for the video. Did u change the hubs?? Did the sound go away.?
Replaced with USA made bearing. Thanks for watching. made a video on it as well.
I replaced both wheel bearing hubs in both of my 2000 - 2006 Suburbans. They sounded worse in high speed turns so I could tell which side was bad.
Best to replace both hub bearings at the same time.
I agree. However laziness sometimes gets in the way
Thank you. You just made me smarter 😀
Glad I could help!
Awesome video amigo
Thank you for the info
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Good video. I think I have a bad CV axle. That's my guess . . . now to diagnose for sure. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
good diagnosis. great video
Thanks, be sure to read warnings in description and pinned comment.
Thank you brother you give me very good idea
Thanks and welcome, please see warning in description.
Good video helps a lot thanks
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Thank you going to test mine
Glad to help, please read description and pinned post.
Good looking out man thanks alott
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
My 02 Escalade AWD makes the same kind of noise but only under a load. Once I let off the gas it stops. Or if I'm cruising at 75MPH its not as noticeable. I think it's the front Differential. When I changed the fluid it had a lot of metal in it. Any other Ideas?
Metal in diff fluid may be normal wear if it has not been changed, however a sound like that under load only would direct my curiosity more to diff, trans, or even as simple as U-joints on a driveshaft. Thanks for watching.
Diff. had metal ?
Spin the wheels ,look at the teeth gears, worn?
But look inside wheels, for grease spinning out of hubs, check booths on CV's ,ripes.
If front axle is bad, trade it or look for another pumpkin (same gears).
Last, if you have a 4×4, all tires the same size?
This alone can throw off the speed of turning the front and back axles, causing improper gear wear.
Well thought out.good stuff
Thanks for watching.
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the kind words
Great information
Thank you, please read warning in top post and description.
Great video!
Thanks for watching.
Ok I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer 4 wheel drive the problem I am having is once I get up to about 60 mph I have a really bad knocking that sounds like it is coming from the right front tire area if I get down to 55 mph or if I go around a corner to the left it stops but I get back up to 60 mph it starts back can anyone please help me on what it might be
I would take it to a shop, hubs and cv's usually make noise a much lower speeds
Thanks for help!
Glad it helped. Thanks for Watching.
Do you have any idea why my driver side wheel won’t move on my 2004 Cadillac Escalade jacked up the other side moves fine just the driver side won’t
You might have a stuck brake caliper
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL DOING THIS! The CV spline part steadies the wheel bearings from lateral side to side movement, by pulling it out and driving without a CV spline and backing "plate" and the wheel nut you risk premature failure of you wheel bearings and could do much more damage
Good point, just do it for diagnostic purpose. Thanks for Watching.
That's not true. Even the two wheel drive hub bearings are splined for CV axles when you buy them new. So driving with no CV axle in the wheel hub won't hurt a thing!
@@Foxstang34 EXACTLY! THANK YOU . Nothing wrong with what he did.
Do not do this. I just tried, and it destroyed my front end. The CV does assist the bearing, as my bearing proceeded to self-destruct and let my wheel try to fold out two minutes into driving. Now, instead of just replacing my CV or my bearing, I have to do bearing, rotor, caliper, and brake line.
So true my tire fell off doing this,
I hit a curb right after I smelled burning rubber. when I stopped to take a look the vehicle is uneven
what did I damage?
Could be a whole lot of different things. Need more info.
Very smart and systematic trouble-shooting.
Thanks for watching.
I have a pretty bad whining sound from the front, sounds like on the driver side. Only when in 4wd. Gets louder when deceleration and low speeds.
Only in 4wd?? I would look at the front diff
can someone tell me what would make my truck do that vibration only when i accelerate , when i am coasting its smooth as silk .
CV Joints or U-Joints possibly
Thanks that really helped.
Thanks for watching
I had a bad hub I kept driving now I need a CV axle and a wheel bearing... Sorry pops, this would cause him to throw a wratchet at me for sure.... When installing should I do the wheel bearing first then the CV axle
If you are replacing both, remove hub, then axle, then replace axle, replace hub.
I’m havin probably on a z71 bu the axle has play in it I change it an still doin it when u hit a bump u can feel it in the steerin do y’all tha this would fixs my truck u think a wheel bearin will fixs it plz if any body can help me plz let me now do appreciate it
It has been my experience that if you can feel it in the steering wheel, it is more likely to be a suspension part or steering shaft issue. Loosen Axle nut to check for play in wheel bearing, if no play. replace axle nut and start checking suspension parts. Z71 are notorious for Idler and Pittman arm issues.
Great Video!! You remind me of my Uncle Speedy. He lived in Holbrook. Thank you for the info. Haters will hate and you are Great!
Glad I could help, Thanks for Watching.
1993 K1500 I may have to replace the CV on it, but the replacement has a ABS pulse ring on it, my truck doent have 4 wheel abs. Could I remove the ring from the replacement and it not cause any problems?
As far as I know yes you can remove, also I don't think you even have to remove it. Won't case an issue.
Also I will say too that if one wheel bearing goes out. The one on the other side is not far from failure. I know it cost money, but with a lot of miles. If you got to replace one you probably better replace both. Another way to tell is your ABS light will also be on cause newer vehicles anymore have sensors in the wheel hubs.
Yes true on the ABS light, but Ive had to replace good hubs because the ABS sensor went bad and Ive also had bad hubs with working ABS sensors. Thanks for watching.
great explanation. So generally the culprit is the side opposite the turn?
Sometimes, best is to physically check. Thanks for watching.
Sure enough. My left front bearing was shot ( made growling noise turning right). I changed my CV axle while I was in there.
Same shit happen to my car watched your video fixed my 01 Tahoe thank you 💯
Glad to help
I'm having a clicking while driving. The click is constant depending on the speed. Also A few weeks ago it started out as a pop when turning, the. I couldn't turn my wheel left any more when stopped. When driving I can turn fine, but turning left still pops at low speeds.
With the car jacked up, if I turn the driver wheel left, and spin it backwards, the tire locks up and won't spin anymore. If I spin it straight it spins fine. Any ideas?
04 suburban 4x4. 200k miles. All stock but shocks and a motor
Sounds like a CV Joint, but at 200k, it may be time for hubs as well. Thanks for watching.
@@AxlesGarage thank you. I'm gonna do the joint/axle tomorrow. Was your truck 4x4?
yes 4x4.
You should be able to jack up the front end and just turn the wheel if the bearings are bad you should be able to hear that same noise even just by spinning the wheel by hand
I agree, however that method was not working in this specific situation.
My front wheel drive accord vibrates slightly around 20mph and it goes away after 5 seconds
Probably not a bearing/hub. Thanks for watching.
Awesome vid brother. God bless
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
My 2004 Suburban has a popping sound coming from the left side when turning(left). Would this mean a cv joint issue? It has 193k miles all original front end parts so I am wondering what needs to be replaced at this point. Have done the shocks up front but that’s about it. Any idea on cost for a new CV axle?
A popping sound while turning USUALLY would indicate a CV axle. They are fairly cheap and easy to do.
Standard Replacement about $60: amzn.to/3I0yPzC
and for a few bucks more you can get the HD version: amzn.to/3I9otO3
I'm having the same issue but my bmw is AWD so I dont think removing the shaft would be a good idea. What are your thoughts
No it would not, read the description for warning. But you could remove the axle nut to better able to check for play in the hub.