As an MMI student, I hear of this modification way t0o often. This have nothing to do with emissions, after-burn (always mistakenly called backfire), noise reduction noise, mid range . The exhaust control system (EXCS) is designed to give perfect back pressure at all RPM's but it mostly noticeable and at low RPM range. Disabling this makes you LOSE YOUR LOW END TORQUE. I found that my used bike had it disabled, enabled it and got my torque gains back. Disabling is not recommended unless you are putting in a full exhaust system, AND If you choose to add any modifications to your vehicle, you would need to purchase a good after market ECU like a Power Commander and have it tuned professionally; Taking it to a Dyno ..one time.. after your mods are completed, gives you useless numbers and you might as well just stick the results on your refrigerator. To anyone that STILL wants to do this, just unplug Pin #30 and it will stay open. No need to remove. Have fun and be safe everyone.
I have also heard that putting a servo buddy which mine has on it and it fixes the C46 code it throws! All i did was carefully take out my #30 wire and code went away
Bro I took my bike to r n d motorsports in crystal lake il and the dude was supposed to wash my engine bay and put on my new fairings. I get my bike back and dude did soooo much damage everywhere. He took all the check valve apart a ND took a grinder to it. (Never asked for him to touch this.) Then he tells me my power commander wires were installed backwards and that he "fixed" it. I get my bike back and the bolt kit I bought for it isn't on it completely only some ( and done very poorly, bent or stripped or scratched to shit ND ugly as fuck). He didn't even put all the fucking heat shields back on and ive been callin him to come and get all my extra parts and my heat shield and he won't answer. I'm about to go to a suzuki dealership and get it fixed 100% and the. Mailing his ass the bill. And or go to court. Smh. What ever happened to a service well done
Thanks for posting this vid. Just did this on my K7. Removed a M4 and installed a Yoshi TRC this past week. The FI light stayed on after installing the Yoshi and it got on my nerves! This solved everything!!!
Nick Memphis thanks for the positive feedback. Since this video I've sold the bike but I don't recommend this modification. Suzuki manufactures the motorcycle with that particular flat for a reason . for back pressure or some sort. I don't think that you guys should try to modify your bike for free because you'll get what you pay for. I am the host of this video. Spend a little money on something a little better like headers or really good tires. You'll thank me later I promise.
I just unplugged the wire for the C46 SET Valve code at the ECU plug and I believe it had more power with it hooked up and with a broken actuator motor clicking away between adjustment mode and open mode. I would never unhook and pull out all the cables and the actuator. I would want the keep the option of installing a new actuator motor if broke or put back on if when I go to sell it someone says they would rather have it on so I could make it work again. DONT CUT THE # 30 Wire! Grab a pair of NEEDLE NOSE Pliers and pull the #30 wire out. Easier to be able to push the wire back in the hole then have to splice it if you ever want to use the actuator and SET valve again.
Unless you are drag racing, you want to keep it. it increases back pressure at low range to increase tourqe. opens up at top end to increase flow for more top end horse power. Drag bikes running wide open you want out, but you wouldnt be running stock exhaust anyway.
If you want the flap completely removed then stick a drill inside the exhaust and drill the bar plate to cut it in half. That's what I did to my 03 gsxr. (Same thing).
Good video bro...helped out alot....guys be sure to cut the correct wire to get rid of the F1 check light...if not its gonna annoy the shit outta ya'll. I'm in Jamaica.....gonna show this video to all ma boys! Respect Man! Good Vid
So i tried disabling the valves today. I think it only sounds better while its idling and if im correct the "popping" backifring sounds just disappeared. I thought the backfiring would be louder but its quite the opposite. How come?
Good video. I don't care if you don't know the names of all the parts…neither do I. Ignore the trolls! I'm doing the same thing to my bike, and this was helpful. Cheers!
Thinking of doing this to my bike, having the F1 light come on and noticeable lack of power between 3-5000RPM in first gear makes me believe it is all connected. Also I am hearing a noise coming from the right side fairing where that servo motor (?) the Gyro is when I turn the ignition on. So All in all im thinking of removing the whole thing before taking it in to the dealership. Anyone else with advice ?
hey there i have the same bike and i just turned my idle up. its takes 1 min to do. its a screw on the left top side of motor. it shows you how on your manual. hope that helps.
2 thumbs up on the video. I am having the same problem with the F1 code and I know its that valve. I can move it with my hand to make it go away but after burning my hand once its time to come off. Taking this shit off is better than 250+ bucks. Nice to know the 750 works the same as the 600. ??? does it pass emissions with that valve removed.
Amazing VIdeo, thanks man.. i do have the light i shall try what you have done. Will do this first gixxer website / forums/ showthread.php ?t=174828 and then yours.
It's called the SET valve, (Suzuki Exhaust Tuning) not a check valve. A check valve lets your engine crankcase breathe. There is also the PAIR valve mod, which is different.
So, I actually pulled number 30 out. FI code is gone, but now the bike jitters at low RPM up to 3K ish. At full throttle, it all good tho. Anyone else had this?
Cosmin Filip Otherwise it's simply lacking backpressure and not fueled for the pressure it has. You'll need a ECU flash or powercommander5 and a fuelmap, an older powercommander will need a dyno tune and it just gets more expensive from here. Newer bikes can fix their fueling to a degree after 15minutes idle with all the sensors they have.
Never did plugs. Bike has 5k miles. It started when I pulled the wire. So, I assume it's because of that. But, I'll put it back in to see but I'm almost positive it's because of the back pressure caused by removing the wire.
You have nothing to gain really unless you want to spend $1000 or more for 5-10 more HP that you'll be getting from the tune itself that will be required to fix the problem. Maybe abit of sound if you've done a de-cat. But Aprilla RSV4's are the only bike I know of, not saying the only, but only one i know of that benefits from having it's valve removed.
Total screw up your bike the part is there for a reason don’t cut the wire un pin it so somebody can put it back to factory typical after market exhaust trash 🗑
As an MMI student, I hear of this modification way t0o often. This have nothing to do with emissions, after-burn (always mistakenly called backfire), noise reduction noise, mid range . The exhaust control system (EXCS) is designed to give perfect back pressure at all RPM's but it mostly noticeable and at low RPM range. Disabling this makes you LOSE YOUR LOW END TORQUE. I found that my used bike had it disabled, enabled it and got my torque gains back. Disabling is not recommended unless you are putting in a full exhaust system, AND If you choose to add any modifications to your vehicle, you would need to purchase a good after market ECU like a Power Commander and have it tuned professionally; Taking it to a Dyno ..one time.. after your mods are completed, gives you useless numbers and you might as well just stick the results on your refrigerator. To anyone that STILL wants to do this, just unplug Pin #30 and it will stay open. No need to remove. Have fun and be safe everyone.
I have also heard that putting a servo buddy which mine has on it and it fixes the C46 code it throws! All i did was carefully take out my #30 wire and code went away
Bro I took my bike to r n d motorsports in crystal lake il and the dude was supposed to wash my engine bay and put on my new fairings. I get my bike back and dude did soooo much damage everywhere. He took all the check valve apart a ND took a grinder to it. (Never asked for him to touch this.) Then he tells me my power commander wires were installed backwards and that he "fixed" it. I get my bike back and the bolt kit I bought for it isn't on it completely only some ( and done very poorly, bent or stripped or scratched to shit ND ugly as fuck). He didn't even put all the fucking heat shields back on and ive been callin him to come and get all my extra parts and my heat shield and he won't answer. I'm about to go to a suzuki dealership and get it fixed 100% and the. Mailing his ass the bill. And or go to court. Smh. What ever happened to a service well done
All dyno tests say otherwise
Thanks for posting this vid. Just did this on my K7. Removed a M4 and installed a Yoshi TRC this past week. The FI light stayed on after installing the Yoshi and it got on my nerves! This solved everything!!!
Nick Memphis thanks for the positive feedback. Since this video I've sold the bike but I don't recommend this modification. Suzuki manufactures the motorcycle with that particular flat for a reason . for back pressure or some sort. I don't think that you guys should try to modify your bike for free because you'll get what you pay for. I am the host of this video. Spend a little money on something a little better like headers or really good tires. You'll thank me later I promise.
I just unplugged the wire for the C46 SET Valve code at the ECU plug and I believe it had more power with it hooked up and with a broken actuator motor clicking away between adjustment mode and open mode.
I would never unhook and pull out all the cables and the actuator. I would want the keep the option of installing a new actuator motor if broke or put back on if when I go to sell it someone says they would rather have it on so I could make it work again.
DONT CUT THE # 30 Wire! Grab a pair of NEEDLE NOSE Pliers and pull the #30 wire out. Easier to be able to push the wire back in the hole then have to splice it if you ever want to use the actuator and SET valve again.
thnx for your effort on explaining and sharing something to do on my bike.........thnx for your time...ED
Unless you are drag racing, you want to keep it. it increases back pressure at low range to increase tourqe. opens up at top end to increase flow for more top end horse power. Drag bikes running wide open you want out, but you wouldnt be running stock exhaust anyway.
nice vid....im using this as a reference for my boys 07 gsxr 600.
If you want the flap completely removed then stick a drill inside the exhaust and drill the bar plate to cut it in half. That's what I did to my 03 gsxr. (Same thing).
Nice vid very helpful
great video
great vid!
nice video bro.
Good video bro...helped out alot....guys be sure to cut the correct wire to get rid of the F1 check light...if not its gonna annoy the shit outta ya'll. I'm in Jamaica.....gonna show this video to all ma boys! Respect Man! Good Vid
So i tried disabling the valves today. I think it only sounds better while its idling and if im correct the "popping" backifring sounds just disappeared. I thought the backfiring would be louder but its quite the opposite. How come?
Good video
hi,do i have to put 2 stell cables which connect to exhaust at 6:04.or removed them
if put them back why donot we just cut off #30
please help
Good video. I don't care if you don't know the names of all the parts…neither do I. Ignore the trolls! I'm doing the same thing to my bike, and this was helpful. Cheers!
OMG. This is where people who know absolutely nothing, get their stupid ideas from.
I have finally seen it for myself.....
AWESOME
set valve....cool vid
great video!! but i crashed my gixxer to so this is a waste for me right now but im gona get another gixxer ur model :)
thx!
Great video and you will piss your neighbors off lol
anyone notice any other change in performance besides increased noise levels after doing this mod?
cameron
After removing the check valve, how to extinguish the check????
got a 2006 gsxr 600 and got the same exhaust..and my light has been on ever since i got my exhaust .......has yours everycame back on?
should i do this to my gsxr 1000? its got dual exhaust
Tô com uma suzuki 750 no modo check vc pode me dá uma luz já passei o computador nela coloquei jump e tudo mas não sai
The uh the uh the uh god bro kick back
We do give a shit. We'll done. On mine, I'd bought a plug-in thing to turn off the light. No cutting for me.
после снятия обратного клапана как потушить чек ?
Thinking of doing this to my bike, having the F1 light come on and noticeable lack of power between 3-5000RPM in first gear makes me believe it is all connected. Also I am hearing a noise coming from the right side fairing where that servo motor (?) the Gyro is when I turn the ignition on. So All in all im thinking of removing the whole thing before taking it in to the dealership. Anyone else with advice ?
what make cowl is that?
After removing the check valve, how to extinguish the check
does your red light still comes up
no prob
Hey my friend, do you have benefit removing that?
You don't have remove the entire check valve ! Just snip the 30 wire and make sure the valve is in the open position !
Thinking about trying this. Any other tips if I do? Do I get that valve open by using the fuel switch like he did in the video?
9:45/////Stay off the stuff man! :)
hello guys tell me the name of this exhaust?
thanks
Looks like a Jardine GP-1
learn the names of the parts, it will make it sound like you almost know what you are doing. Over all a decent video.
hey there i have the same bike and i just turned my idle up. its takes 1 min to do. its a screw on the left top side of motor. it shows you how on your manual. hope that helps.
Wait what does this do? And is it bad..
2 thumbs up on the video. I am having the same problem with the F1 code and I know its that valve. I can move it with my hand to make it go away but after burning my hand once its time to come off. Taking this shit off is better than 250+ bucks. Nice to know the 750 works the same as the 600. ??? does it pass emissions with that valve removed.
Amazing VIdeo, thanks man.. i do have the light i shall try what you have done.
Will do this first gixxer website
/ forums/ showthread.php ?t=174828
and then yours.
Mine doesn’t move at all. Hmmm
It's called the SET valve, (Suzuki Exhaust Tuning) not a check valve. A check valve lets your engine crankcase breathe. There is also the PAIR valve mod, which is different.
So, I actually pulled number 30 out. FI code is gone, but now the bike jitters at low RPM up to 3K ish. At full throttle, it all good tho. Anyone else had this?
Cosmin Filip When's the last time you checked or replaced your spark plugs?
Cosmin Filip Otherwise it's simply lacking backpressure and not fueled for the pressure it has. You'll need a ECU flash or powercommander5 and a fuelmap, an older powercommander will need a dyno tune and it just gets more expensive from here. Newer bikes can fix their fueling to a degree after 15minutes idle with all the sensors they have.
Never did plugs. Bike has 5k miles. It started when I pulled the wire. So, I assume it's because of that. But, I'll put it back in to see but I'm almost positive it's because of the back pressure caused by removing the wire.
You have nothing to gain really unless you want to spend $1000 or more for 5-10 more HP that you'll be getting from the tune itself that will be required to fix the problem. Maybe abit of sound if you've done a de-cat. But Aprilla RSV4's are the only bike I know of, not saying the only, but only one i know of that benefits from having it's valve removed.
+Cosmin Filip It's normal for all motorcycles at low RPM when you do that.
No light, check 8:30
S
other crazy shit you say?
This is why I’ll never buy a used bike ! o.O
Total screw up your bike the part is there for a reason don’t cut the wire un pin it so somebody can put it back to factory typical after market exhaust trash 🗑
you dont have to smog bikes 07 and down