That was me that had warping from fiberglass resin. It was a slight warping that threw the alignment of the font and back off in my predator shin guards. I probably went a little to thick like you mentioned. I switched to xtc3d because it doesn't smell very much and doesn't heat up much. It is pricey tho and takes a day to cure. Great video I love learning about new chemicals and talking shop.😊
Question, I am designing aero parts for cars. Front and rear deck spoilers, side skirts, and grills. Would it be possible to print the parts in PLA+ and then coat them from the outside in fiberglass or your resin you are using? Would the PLA+ warp? I'm looking to use the PLA parts as a sort of core. It's much easier to print it and then coat it than to make it from scratch in all fiberglass. Thanks!
It should work fine. I'm actually planning on doing the same thing to make a hardtop for my car. Once its glassed, shouldn't warp. I'd print with no infill. You could always print the negative, wax the surface and use it as a mold to create fully fiberglass parts.
sorry did you mention Epoxy resin is good for 3d prints? I am ordering some right now from Amazon Brand called KISREL, and its Epoxy resin crystal clear... any thoughts? I should of course wear my respirator when doing it, but should I apply it thing or thing on the back or inside of my armor?
I’m very interested in giving this a try- but I have questions! Do you modify your files so that they are a single thin wall? I’m printing armor parts which all have a certain thickness to them requiring infill between the walls. If I fibreglassed these only the inner wall would be strengthened surely?
@@gordontarpley Ah I see. That’s going to be the tricky part as I didn’t design my files so only have stls. It’s challenging to edit these in fusion which is all I have at the mo!
I like watching these videos. Reminds me of a mad scientist in his lab. Might be useful - Styrene in polyester dissolves the emulsion bound mat. Powder bound mat breaks up a bit easier with epoxy. Still won't comply like polyester though.
this is awesome! any recommendations to reinforce a mandalorian helmet? i need it to handle a fair bit of abuse! (getting dropped, punched, and shot with airsoft toys)
When it's resin, probably not. Definitely not the dust when sanding.. Once it's cured, probably not an issue. All kinds of helmets are made from fiberglass
I usually use fiberglass with either polyester or epoxy resin. Sometimes I use SmoothCast 300 or 65d resin. Same as the rest of the parts. Just about any helmet or mask you see in films or actual helmets like motorcycle, space suit, pilot, skydiver and many, many others are made from fiberglass.
And those are safe to use for inside the helmet?don't want take off the helmet and see bad reaction to my skin 😅 Do you recommend Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit
@@d-mart3733 bondo brand is fine but there are lots of better brands out there. I like Composite Resources laminating resin more. It's lower viscosity and saturates the fiberglass mat or cloth more easily than bondo brand. You can add a little acetone to thin it if needed but I've read that too much can make the resin more brittle.
Thank you for taking the time on this. Very informative and you answered questions that I didnt know I would have yet. Thank you again.
That was me that had warping from fiberglass resin. It was a slight warping that threw the alignment of the font and back off in my predator shin guards. I probably went a little to thick like you mentioned. I switched to xtc3d because it doesn't smell very much and doesn't heat up much. It is pricey tho and takes a day to cure. Great video I love learning about new chemicals and talking shop.😊
Question, I am designing aero parts for cars. Front and rear deck spoilers, side skirts, and grills. Would it be possible to print the parts in PLA+ and then coat them from the outside in fiberglass or your resin you are using? Would the PLA+ warp? I'm looking to use the PLA parts as a sort of core. It's much easier to print it and then coat it than to make it from scratch in all fiberglass. Thanks!
It should work fine. I'm actually planning on doing the same thing to make a hardtop for my car. Once its glassed, shouldn't warp. I'd print with no infill. You could always print the negative, wax the surface and use it as a mold to create fully fiberglass parts.
sorry did you mention Epoxy resin is good for 3d prints? I am ordering some right now from Amazon Brand called KISREL, and its Epoxy resin crystal clear... any thoughts? I should of course wear my respirator when doing it, but should I apply it thing or thing on the back or inside of my armor?
I’m very interested in giving this a try- but I have questions! Do you modify your files so that they are a single thin wall? I’m printing armor parts which all have a certain thickness to them requiring infill between the walls. If I fibreglassed these only the inner wall would be strengthened surely?
Yeah, I completely close up the parts then use the slicing software to control the wall thickness
@@gordontarpley Ah I see. That’s going to be the tricky part as I didn’t design my files so only have stls. It’s challenging to edit these in fusion which is all I have at the mo!
@@reelclones download Blender. It's free and should be able to do what you need
I like watching these videos. Reminds me of a mad scientist in his lab. Might be useful - Styrene in polyester dissolves the emulsion bound mat. Powder bound mat breaks up a bit easier with epoxy. Still won't comply like polyester though.
Nice video, Gordon! So, can I use chopped strands with the epoxy, or are they also coated with the starch?
Yep
You need to mix or shake the resin container before use so the cobalt is distributed evenly so it will harden when you add the catalyst .
Thanks thts really gret very informative video.Have a nice work 🤙
hey Gordon!! great into video on fiberglass stuff
ive used Fillite Filler Powder mixed with polyester resin before
to strengthen it
this is awesome!
any recommendations to reinforce a mandalorian helmet? i need it to handle a fair bit of abuse! (getting dropped, punched, and shot with airsoft toys)
Fiberglass the inside!
thank you!
You could use aqua resin , it won't have the odor as polyester does.
Solid tips G!
That was awesome. Thanks!
Good stuff Gordon!
Thank you!!!
Probably not good to breathe in any fiber glass right?
When it's resin, probably not. Definitely not the dust when sanding.. Once it's cured, probably not an issue. All kinds of helmets are made from fiberglass
Whats safe to use to reinforce a part that goes on your face
I usually use fiberglass with either polyester or epoxy resin. Sometimes I use SmoothCast 300 or 65d resin. Same as the rest of the parts. Just about any helmet or mask you see in films or actual helmets like motorcycle, space suit, pilot, skydiver and many, many others are made from fiberglass.
@@gordontarpley is there a brand you recommend
@@d-mart3733 Smooth-On EpoxAmite or West Systems epoxy resin are my first choices.
And those are safe to use for inside the helmet?don't want take off the helmet and see bad reaction to my skin 😅
Do you recommend Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit
@@d-mart3733 bondo brand is fine but there are lots of better brands out there. I like Composite Resources laminating resin more. It's lower viscosity and saturates the fiberglass mat or cloth more easily than bondo brand. You can add a little acetone to thin it if needed but I've read that too much can make the resin more brittle.
What is the website for the pro foam?
motionpicturefx.com/
I haven't been on the website in a long time and I just noticed that I'm in a severel photos on the front page!
More specifically...
motionpicturefx.com/products/pro-foam-soft-ii-a-b-gallon-kit