Flashforge Adventurer 4: 7 PROBLEMS In 1st Week
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ม.ค. 2022
- A week ago, the Flashforge Adventurer 4 arrived. I have be so excited to start printing useful things but ever since I started using the printer, I have encountered MANY issues. I hope that if you own this printer, you could help me out with some issues. If you are looking to purchase this printer, consider these things before purchasing and subscribe if you want to see more content from my 3D printing journey.
Buy The Flashforge Adventurer 4
Canada: amzn.to/3HDnsMB
USA: amzn.to/3zDveUc
#adventurer4 #flashforge #3dprinting
![How to Troubleshoot Uneven Bed + Advanced Bed Levelling Methods [Adventurer 4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3-OLmGHv1fI/mqdefault.jpg)
What problems have you experienced so far?
Fixed my levelling problem! -> th-cam.com/video/vKG7ysnwcPg/w-d-xo.html
Check out my unboxing and first print on the adventurer 4: th-cam.com/video/druxp1N3wm0/w-d-xo.html
Hi Daniel. Thanks for the video. Any progress on the prints sticking to the bed issue? I don't have that problem when using the filament that comes with the printer, but other filaments are really stuck
what about when the adventurter 4 lite prints the local files fine but then cannot print you design files as good? What could that be?
To be fair, 3 of your issues were user error and not the printer. That filament requires a bigger nozzle. The bed adhesion is because the layers were way to close to bed which you can tell by the skirt.
Great Video! I had almost exactly the same issue as you did. Good call on the gantry not being level, when a few of my prints came out lopsided I attributed to warping. I was on my second unit, the first arrived with broken hinges on the door. Thanks again for the video!
You’re welcome! I’ve tried to level my gantry but in the end, using shims is the best solutions I’ve found
Thanks for the videos and yes more videos will help lots.
Thank you so much for this video. After getting my Ad4 Lite I was having the same issue with really bad layer shifting on my y-axis. I was about to give up and return it then I came across your video and couldn’t believe how easy the fix was. Removing the bottom cover I saw the screw for the motor was completely off and just needed to be screwed back on. I’m still surprised that this was even an issue. Why isn’t Flashforge testing their machines after production. Thanks again Daniel!
I think it is a 'hit or mis'. In our school we have three adventurer 4's. Two of the printers work perfectly every time, and one (the one in my room) has the exact same issues as yours. Really enjoying your videos and hopefully will give me the know-how to fix the one in my room.
Just got an adventurer 4 two weeks ago and have been printing almost non stop since the unboxing (has not been turned off for that time) without any issues at all, not even minor gripes. It's a major step up from the Prusa clone, Tronxy and Anycubic Chiron that I also have, so much so I have just ordered the adventurer 4 pro as well. These comments are a year or so later than your video so maybe the firmware and other items have been updated with fixes since then or maybe I'm just easy to please or lucky.
Hey Daniel first of all tnx for your video! I'm having a lot!!! Of stringing issues and bad quality of the printing, also many clicking sound even when only extruding (not printing) can you share some insights what could be the problem?
Tnx
With my AD4 I also had problems with the default printbed but with a glass bed it works very well. If the PLA cools down it comes directly off and you can clean the printbed easily with 50% water / 50% Isopropanol. By the way this also works for sticky prints. Spray this around the print and wait a while then you can hear how it comes off the printbed. In combination with a glue stick this works very well. My Z-axis was also not even, I got short instructions from support how to fix this. At the end I had to loosen some screws on one side a little bit, then everything worked fine. Cool, that someone now makes videos for the AD4, was searching for this when the printer was released… Thanks!
What glass bed did you buy? I was looking into this but am hesitant since there isn't a good way to secure it without taping it down permanently.
Hi Daniel,
Did you find the left side of your z axis has a little movement? Causing a rattle like sound during faster infill prints?
Yes my left side has movement on both of the printers I bought from them. On the second one when I first got it, I didn’t feel any. After a couple of prints, I started to feel some…very strange
The fan shroud on my AD 4 extruder broke on its first print job. I was able to glue it back on. I rarely use that fan , mostly for the the top layer of the raft and any layers where there are some fine details without support.
I've a flashprinter 4 pro and when I tried to print the tester cube it prints with 20x10x20, I don't understand why.
I tried to print something else and the measures its never OK.
Have you some ideas what could be the cause?
Thanks in advance
Hi Daniel,
Just watched your video, I purchased an Adventurer4 about a week ago. I can tell you that there is a 0.4mm height difference from the front left corner of the bed to the rear right corner. The runout on the aluminium bed appears to be 0.1mm so there's some issues with squareness on a brand new machine. I don't think you got the bad printer, I think they are all like this to some extent. I'm going to try some adjustments over the next week, starting with a dial indicator test of bed runout, then the dial indicator on the print head assembly to find which axis require adjusting.
Thanks for the video.
I treated myself for Christmas by purchasing an Adventurer 4. As a novice 3D printer, I treat every misprint as a learning experience. Can't say that I encountered any problems with the printer itself other than the exceptionally sticky bed. I thought this is just a normal thing with all printers. I'm loving the print experience.
If you adjust your levelling to be slightly further away from the bed, that could reduce the amount of adhesion. Try using the advanced calibration mode and increase the z-height by 0.02mm. Print to test and if its still too sticky, rinse and repeat!
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Thanks Daniel.
I found a simple trick online to remove the prints. A 50/50 mix of Isopropyl alcohol and water sprayed on the base of the prints definitely helps to loosen the print from the base. I'll implement your suggestion to see if it works.
Shocking that for such an expensive printer, you've had so many problems. That's not good for a first time printing experience. You did an excellent job of diagnosing and overcoming the problems that you found!
$800usd is expensive for the average person but in the 3d printing world, I feel this is considered low to mid tier sadly :( I wish it were as plug and play as people advertised it to be
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Well, I'd have to disagree with that. I have a $200 and a $175 dollar printer. (The $175 printer is a FlashForge product btw.) This represents the bottom end of the market and likely the most popular for the 'average' person. I do think that printing with PLA is largely "plug and play." However, PETG is a real challenge. If it were me, I'd send that Adventurer back for a refund. You could buy four budget printers that work better out of the box.
@@baxrok2. Any recommendations? After many months AND a replacements, I'm strill struggling with test prints because of ''bed leveling''.
@@joeyvanrenesse884 Bed leveling requires attention and care on any printer. I use a Voxelab Aquila that is pretty much set and forget for the bed. I also use a FLSUN Q5 delta that is very sensitive to the Z direction adjustment but has auto bed leveling which makes things easier. I use the Q5 delta for fast prototyping and the Aquila for final printing.
Great videos! My adventurer 4 has been running for about two weeks/100hours of print time now and just got an odd issue, i think the printer head started "sagging" so the nozzle is hitting/dragging in the print. Thougt it was just a level issue but it drags no matter if the bed is leveled so the print comes out all stringy/not sticking. This also brings a overextruded looking print, could there be a problem with the screws inside the machine going loose, what do you reckon ?
I’m pretty sure I might have a similar issue because I noticed that the gantry is lower in the middle of my bed vs the sides. This was done while just jogging the printer left and right. I haven’t seen it as bad as what you described though where my prints are having over extrusion.
One thing you can try is tightening the bolts which hold the two rails which might help with keeping the x axis stiff
Hey Daniel!
Have not yet figured out the problem but i have now noticed the layer/model fan is not spinning at all during print even though it is suppose to be on looking in gcode. Yours is on all time if it's set to run?
@@Johu9 I sent my fan to different levels depending on the print and the feature. I don't use flashprint anymore but if the gcode says it should be on, then something might be wrong with the wiring. You can try opening up the extruder by unscrewing the silver hex bolt on the top of the extruder and that will reveal the inside of the extruder + fans
I have this printer for over a year and haven’t encountered any of these problems. I did have a problem where a part that holds the filament tube wouldn’t hold pressure but that was just a easy part swap.
We just received a few of these for my school. So far we have had them for about 2 weeks. We use all of our printers doily. we have yet to have a print not fail that was larger than an hour. we are also having horrible stringing problems.
Hi I just got mine yesterday and is working great but all my prints look great but with a little force is cracking and braking the parts on the layers, I tried New PETG, ABS, and the one that comes with the printer the red PLA, played with temperatures, used both nozzles, 240 and 265c they all keep braking. I print with my old FF Creator Pro= No Problem. Any ideas?
What temperature were you printing each filament at? Sounds like you have a layer height adhesion issue which typically means your temperature needs to increase. The other issue could be that you’re not extruding enough material which means you should check out the extrusion multiplier or path/line width
Mine clogged so badly that its pushed the nozzle out. The ptfe tube wont release and I cant remove the nozzle without having it plugged in to heat up.
Hi Daniel, Can you make a video on PC printing using Adventure 4?
My Flashforge is causing my models to slip to the left and right at the same spot if I build to high, should I be inspecting the extruder belt or is this a motor issue?
Hmmm perhaps you are printing too quickly or somehow the nozzle is knocking the part as its travelling and causing the right to left shift. I doubt its a motor issue because the left to right motor only needs to move the light weight extruder. Try contacting support though
Replaced Flashforge adventurer 4 screen but just blank any ideas
I have had my adventurer 4 for a couple of months. My only problem has been sometimes removing the raft
I've never used a raft before on the adventurer 4. I did use to own the flashforge creator pro and used a raft once, never again though since the results were a terrible surface on the bottom layer. I have been using a brim instead to get better bed adhesion for parts with corners or a very skinny base
my adventure 4 feed plastic stuck how to solve?
I have many disapointments with this printer and not sure is it bug or may be 'undocumented feature'. First, heating of extruder and plate are going very slow. Before it starts printing it first heating up plate very slowly - approx one degree per 6 seconds. Then it starts heating the nozzle, it looks like it can't heat both devices simultaneously. The same can be observed when I am trying to heat it up via Preheat menu. If to heat it up separate it's going faster. Especially extruder, but when together it goes pretty slow, and one by one. Second, it quite offten hapens when I am loading the file through WiFi it can't open it. It happens once per 3 files. The distance to the printer does not matter. I have to upload some unlucky file several times. Third, the sensor screen is crazy, it is very hard to make exactly one touch when calibrating the extruder. Quite often it happens two or three touches, it makes a calibration a nightmare. Fourth, sometimes it jumps in the middle of calibration process to the main menu by itself and you need to start calibrations from begining. Fifth, sometimes I can see that blue led is blinking inside the printer somewhere in the area of it's main board. Is it Ok? I am not sure is my machine Ok. From other hand it can print and actually doing this Ok, in general. But looks like capricios machine. Do other people have the same problem with it?
I have had the printer for about a few weeks now and never had a failed print or any issues at all. I only use the filament from flashforge and use fusion 360 and flashprint. I love this thing. Actually I am printing a rather large figure and I just finished a 18 hour print with 0 issues.
What is the largest model that you’ve done in XY dimensions
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 The full size 250x250
I am just learning about the Adventurer 4 and hoping to get one in a month or two. I use fusion360 and practicing with Flashprint. Could you tell me you process from Fusion360 to the Adventurer 4? Are you exporting gcode and importing to Flashprint or do you have another method?
@@tankuman You can export a Fusion360 as an STL. Or Fusion360 has an option to print directly to the printer which is what I use when prototyping. Thats what is nice about having the wifi option!
Yap, i know a lot more these days, have it about half an year and I should check those screws under the table, because couple of prints did got screwup simular as yours did, but just right now I put the printer back together (had to replace display second time xD). Also the leveli g is bring my the pain, i ussualy take my time and help first two layers level manualy... When you discover solution for "correcting" those thred-rods give me to know xD
Now Im angry that there is new Prusa Mk4 with enclosure for just "slightly" higher price...
First printer, so far excellent for a beginner like me just learning and all the test files that I printed were close to perfect. The Russian Maze among other files I download it from the thingiverse ...
Hi Daniel!
I'm a FF ADV4 owner too and I'd like to mention the following:
The 3D printer actually comes with an unglogging tool, so there's no need for a ten gauge wire?
Also I experienced the bed leveling problem. I sent the printer back to my reseller where they repaired it under warranty. Just like yours, the Z-axis wasn't level but that's resolved now.
I know more people with this issue so I do think it comes in handy to make a video about it for the people who are not able to get it repaired.
Nice work on your video though!
Hey Joey, I tried the unclogging tool which I pushed through where the filament enters. That didn’t ever work unfortunately. The unclogging tool won’t fit from the 0.4mm nozzle side which is why I used a strand from a 10 gauge wire. I think it was just that filament that gave me a problem. I just printed a 24h job with black yesterday and no clogs at all.
Sadly I bought mine from USA and I live in Canada. Shipping it out would be expensive and not sure if that is covered by the reseller. I’m in contact with them though and will have to see what happens
use a little sewing oil then wipe it off on the bed. get a bigger head. adjust the bed. call the company for help they can send another. these three things worked.
subbed, Id like to see more ad4 videos
& yes I have issues too, bed level & nozzle clogs are the problems I suffer.
How have you managed to fix it?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Hey, sorry for late reply.
Basically my ad4 bed level is no where near perfect but I managed to get it good enough to print "OK" prints, I raised the bed temp to 80 (abit excessive i know) but was out of ideas, then re leveled. As for the clogging nozzle, Right now I just print over 225 on the nozzle, Anything under 220 I sometimes get the bowden clicking. Since my prints are "OK" for now I am just waiting to see if people manage to fix theirs online & I will follow what they fixed, hence how I found your channel lol!
I get clicking too which I haven’t figured out how to get rid of. My suspicion is that the nozzle is trying to extrude too much filament and is prevented from doing so
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I had the Adventurer 3 and I now use the Ad 4. Clogged nozzles was the bane of my life until I started to use cleaning filament. I don't use it after each print, but if I am changing filaments or if I am using a special filament (like the marble style one you're using) I will use it between prints. A bit of a pain at times, but it definitely helps clear clogged nozzles. Oh and if I know I'm not using the printer for more than 48h I will unload the filament from the nozzle.
Hi Daniel, I have problems with extruder skipping.
Without much context, I would suggest that you might be running at too high a speed or the temperature is too low. This would prevent the filament from heating up enough so it takes more force from the extruder and eventually skips because it can't push fast enough
I would love to know how to get the touch screen out mine broke
I don’t think I’ll be able to make a full disassembly video but there are a bunch of screws that secure the side and top panel that need to be removed. I think the bottom panel also secured the side panel so I’d imagine you need to remove that as well
Has anyone had a problems with the extruder cooling down as it starts to print a project? The extruder heats up fine when it is preparing to print, but as soon as the extruder starts to lower, it starts cooling down. If anyone can help me, I would be very grateful.
What problem I’m having is only one extruder skipping any idea how to fix?
I have had 0 issues printed 40 items it came with broken frame box bracket that i had to glue back on I use a razor blade to get them off . I use flash forge products and AMAZ3d PLA once i figured out the levelling issue and by that i mean i just calibrate it every print my stuff comes out amazing . Not sure waht lemons you and some of the commenters got . Mine is awesome and i have 30 awesome prints in a row of all sizes some not great but none crappy . spaghetti issues with one gray PLA from flash forge but heat and speed adjustments took care of that . All in all i have cheap units before that turned me right off but not this one I want another one .
My prints cannot stick to the bed and it goes everywhere the first second. Still have not figured out how to fix it? Any recommendations.
I also have the problem of the filament sticking with the nozzle.
@@Makethisviral242 are you printing with PLA? You likely need to level your bed.
When doing the calibration, put the shim so its directly under the nozzle and lower the nozzle until the shim cannot be moved. If its already stuck, then raise the nozzle. tune it in 0.05mm increments. That should help your prints stick with PLA.
If you are using other materials like ABS or PETG, you need to set the bed temperature to the appropriate level
I already level the bed.
@@Makethisviral242 you need to adjust the levelling using the advanced option. Advanced will tell you a measurement in mm and you need to lower it by 0.02mm at a time.
The other option is that while your part is printing, go into the menu and lower the z-offset until your print sticks. To access the menu, click on the triple dots, then select the menu icon, and there you should see the z-offset. The best way to adjust this is to add a brim around your part and while the brim is printing, adjust the z offset lower until it sticks. If the filament goes everywhere, stop your print and restart it. The z-offset value in that menu seems to save from print to print.
Once the print is done, you can go back into the advanced bed levelling option and change the number by the amount you entered into the z-offset. Just remember to change the z-offset value next time you print back to zero if you do this
Do you think this printer is worth it?
Man that stinks, I have been considering one of these. My new Ender 3 has been a nightmare. I can’t really trust it with extended printed print times at all. I’m pretty new to the 3D printing so I just don’t know enough to make it work properly.
Unless you get a machine that is a few thousand dollars and you have a technician come and set it up, my experience is that every 3d printer needs some sort of tinkering to get things just right. Keep learning though! Its super rewarding when I figure out solutions to issues I'm having which is why I'm making videos
FlashPrint saves as default a .gx file BUT select .g or .gcode from the drop down list. That saves as a human readable text file you can edit in Notepad... and the printer can still work with and print it.
Wow thanks! I didn’t see that. I assume that if you load it back into flash print without slicing again, it will retain all your custom commands right?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 I haven't tried that yet but I have loaded gcode from other slicets into FP which it was happy to send to the printer. Printed some test cubes that way
@@dondec What slicers have you tried? I was going to attempt using cura but haven't had the chance to yet. Also were you able to get g-code from a different slicer and send it wirelessly to the adventurer 4 through flashprint?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Yes, I tried setting up Cura and SuperSlicer. There's some Start and End gcode you have to add to make it work. Just copy that from a FP code file. Other settings I just migrated from FP. The problem I had with both of them was: they have no option of generating a pre extrusion like FP does. I don't use a Raft so I need that pre extrusion to prime the nozzle. But to answer your other question, yes, the gcode they generate you can drag and drop into FP and send it Wifi to the printer... but FP can't edit it... its not a model, but it can preview the slices. I've actually found FP to work pretty well, and its options for controlling the Print Temp and Cooling Fan (per layer) very very helpful for printing PETG.
@@dondec I just started printing with PETG and its been a bit of a pain so far. I had 240C with 25% fans working decently well using the 240C nozzle. Now switching to the 265C nozzle, the results are not as good... waiting to see what happens with the rest of the temperature tower going all the way up to 255C.
What settings are you using?
well, I have the same printer and hate to tell you, but I have the exact problems that you are experiencing. if you find a solution to any of these problems I would like to know about them.
Which problems exactly are you having? I have found a few solutions ever since this video
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 the bed sticking to hard and tearing up my model.
@@glenngillan739 I’ve been using an box cutting knife to score at the edge of the part for PLA and PETG. It might my be scary the first time but I found the buildtak is quite resistant to it. Mind you, my knife is a cheap one so the blade isn’t super sharp. What you can do if you don’t feel comfortable with that is to put a layer of glue stick and that helps, especially for PETG
@@glenngillan739 spray 50/50 isopropyl and water, wait 5 seconds and it comes right off
I have this printer and it has worked great for a year and then bam all of a sudden the filament won't stick....any ideas?
Sorry that you've had so many problems. I am new to 3D printing and the Adv 4 is may first. I've had it for little over a month, Santa Claus. I've gone through over three 1kg spools. Had a few printing mishaps, but nothing like yours. My nozzle airduct cover broke and fell off as soon as I fired up the printer the first time (weak design). All 3 clips on the cover broke off. In Flashpoint under File in Examples, there is AD4_Airduct_Cover.stl file. I loaded it in the slicer and printed it out, but the part is so small I can not get it stay snapped in place. The printed cover keeps falling off. I took the file and modified the cover with my own designed snap and that works fine. The printing bed worked fine at first (after about one 1kg spool of pla) until I made one print that stuck so tight to the bed's surface that it damaged the surface beyond repair. I replace the bed surface with Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet and that material works well. I knew that I would have to go through a learning curve since 3D printing is new to me, but I think that the Adv 4 was a good printer for me since it is pretty much turn-key and user friendly. I think your Adv 4 was a quality control issue. It must have been assembled on a Monday after a 3-day weekend, lol.
Here's a link to how I'm using my Adv 4 ~ th-cam.com/video/v8bil3yfhXw/w-d-xo.html
Would you mind linking the PEI sheet you used? Did you just remove the buildtak and stick the PEi sheet on the spring steel?
I dont think any printer is plug and play but with minor tweaks it gets better
здравствуйте!
я подписался 😊
спасибо вам за ваш труд над роликами об этом принтере!👍
Totally agree. This printer a F%^*7en nightmare. Had similar problems - plate calibration and changed the Bowden copler three times in the first week.
in my experience cheap PLA. from Amazon does not work, with Flash forge just try some Flash forge filament.
i always get a knocking sound halfway thru my prints
By knocking, I assume you mean the extruder clicking right? What filament are you printing and what is your retraction speed?
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 Not sure from where but u can see the tube twitch. Speed 50 pla +
@@justmakeitdaniel7667 retraction is 3.0mm and am using pla
@@paulviana838 what is your nozzle temperature and retraction speed? I’d try PLA with a nozzle temp of 210, retraction speed of 25mm/s or higher and a priming speed of 20mm/s.
When you start hearing the knocking, put your finger on the filament to get an idea if the knocking happens during a retraction or when it primes (pushes forwards after the retraction). I got lots of knocking during the priming.
If it’s not during the retraction but rather while printing, then you need to raise the temp or slow down your speed
Same issues
the trick is make a raft on every print
Yeah, this 3d printer fk 3 times a 47h print (oane after another) and 3 role of flament.. Now if fkt up bcz while print said is no filament in it.. I will go with prusa 👍
I have got adventurer 4 pro, I had to edit gcode already, it's easy! 💪 hit me up for tips
For whoever has this option, buy it on Amazon as an Amazon Prime item! If I saw 1/3 of the issues complained about in this video, I would immediately exchange it for another one. I also have no problem exchanging it two or three times until I get it all right. If I'm going to spend $900 on a 3D printer and then spend $150 a year for my prime account, which is there specifically for returns and exchanges when needed.
I myself have just purchased this printer on Amazon Prime but have not been able to run any test yet.
I ended up switching mine with another one on Amazon and it seems like the flashforge has made some improvements since I last bought one
No le hagan caso a este compa, hay tantos factores que pueden hacer que tu adventure 4 trabaje mal, en lo personal tengo 6 meses y la tengo trabajando a tope! 24hrs no para y no he tenido mas que 1 de los problemas, el del filamento atorado pero por desgaste del tornillo de extrusor. deberia de dar mas detalles de como imprime, con que tipo de filamento, en que condiciones... todo eso afecta y no se puede generalizar
same problems here😔😔
sorry to hear that :( Hopefully my videos will help you solve some of your issues. Feel free to comment any other issues you are having and I can see if I can help
To get your calibration to work properly, first do the nine point, then once complete do the center calibration, that fixed the leveling problem for me
The reason it happens, the last point saved is stored as the center which is incorrect, so all of your settings are now misaligned but by redoing the center point calibration you realign
My mother board broke and my z sensor broke usb port broken out of box 😂
Dude... If you buy a printer and it has this many issues it's faulty and you need to send it back.... 99% of ppl have zero issues with this printer..
I have several printers many printers and got the adventurer 4 because was supposed to be basic and easy, that is BS I have a anycubic mega pro cheap printer that gets better quality and consistency out of my prints, you cannot do large prints in the 4 and also have to run the filament most brands super hot way hotter than comfortable on any other printer just to get it to print because once rises above the heat of the Bed it skips layers and doesn't melt the filament you can check with other pros anf they will tell you it's not even a good machine for a elementary school YOU CANT PRINT anything but small prints and with the price tag!!! THERE SHOULDNT BE ANY FIXING CROOKED OR BROKEN or things that aren't right and I've had all his issues AND SOME and as I said I have many printers ones that by all sense should he way harder to use that print way easier and better, all I heard was good about flashforge maybe I just got a lemon too but cmon what are the chances his doesn't print hot enough either and layer lines coming undone and skipping motors CMON NOW!!!
got the same printer . and recon you have a bad printer og shitty filament .
I'm curious what you have printed so far. Have you done a Benchy test and if so, can you link a picture? I really do hope its just my unit and perhaps there is some hope that I can tune it to print a perfect benchy
don't buy this printer: I've had these and other issues with parts after the second week coming out extremely weak even after cleaning everything, i went into some discords for help sadly, i was told it was my own fault even though i didn't change a thing fallowed by being ignored and blocked on some pages, I tried to be as polite as possible and only asked once every other day so i don't think i was spamming but after 3 weeks I got it to work better by over extruding but its still not as good as it used to be for the first two weeks. ive had a better time with a much cheaper artillery sidewinder x1 i sadly sold to pay for an Adventure 4 and by the end of if just felt like a downgrade since you can use this in cura either and have to there Flashprint program thats missing allot of tools.
Trash that crap or sell it on and buy an Ender 3 instead.