It's people like you that makes TH-cam such a great resource. Exact same car, never changed brake pads before, and successfully did it woth your help. Thank you!!
I have no idea how you just helped with so much detailed info on this swap out, but I sure do like that one bolt removal. Planning on swapping mine out tomorrow before a long trip. Thanks!
Caliper guide bolt 32 ft lbs. When installing the caliper guide pin bolts make sure that the one that has a special sleeve on the end is installed in the upper mounting hole. Caliper mounting bracket bolts 80 ft lbs. (only need to remove if replacing the rotor)
I haven’t had the vehicle very long, I have been familiarizing myself with the car. 2016 2.4 L ,2x4 . Was in the middle of a high speed interstate trip 3-400 ish miles round trip the other day when the front Left started having a little metal on metal sound.didn’t quite catch it in time!darn it!!The got basic set of pads ,43 bucks,(65+ for the same with the parts you didn’t use,so skipped wasting that $)On my car, the OUTSIDE left pad is the culprit. Never had a indication of a problem. No squeal,no pulling to one side…straight to grinding..probably going to be doing job twice. I don’t have the money for rotors right now. BUT I will be keeping an eye on them in the meantime. The previous owners were BIG PEOPLE. Couple was a over the 925Lbs combined weight limit,on long trips,a lot! Any way. Thx. Going to be concentrating on the front left suspension especially. The daily driver (wife)was the biggest of the two. Better get after it. Hot one today in NC. Triple digits w heat index.ugh..ps. Can you get away with turning the rotors (once )on these?or are all modern rotors heading to the trash in this situation??
It will depend on the condition of the rotors. Typically they can be turned at least ones. Although in some cases, new rotors are comparable to turning them price wise.
i just used this video to help me change my front brake pads on my jeep patriot 2015 , tysm brother! first time ever doing brakes.. and i see your also from the burgh! WWWWW tysm for the video
Doing my 2010 today, knew how it was done but like to see other people’s point of views. You definitely cut down on time if you need to do it quick. Like for a hot day 🥵 😂
You need to add some anti seize on the back of your pads and on the brake hardware clips where the ends of the pads go in against the hardware .. the pads vibrate slightly and that’s the noise your hearing .. the anti seize takes care of that problem
Do you take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before beginning to do the brakes? If so, doesn't that cause air to get into the lines? Never did brakes before and after watching this video I think I am going to give it a try. Great video 👍
@@SmoknJaysGarage I thought so, they seize up every once in a while and when I put it in drive I can feel the brakes sticking and not letting it move so I have to give it gas to get going. The brakes also get pretty hot after a while! Thanks so much!
I hope you appreciate some constructive criticism. I only watched the video because I was hoping to get the bolt sizes. 1. Always machine or replace rotors. Just replacing brake pads (pad slap) is not an ideal repair. This is because rotors warp due to heat cycles. If you took a digitial caliper to the brake rotor and measured it in 3 different places, I guarantee they will be different. This is what is causing your shudder when you brake. 2. I would always remove the top slider and apply fresh grease. If you dont, it will stick before the bottom one and will cause vibration and poor brake performance. 3. Its not necessary to replace the anti rattle clips but you should at least clean both the surface of the brake carrier and the clips, and apply fresh grease between each. This will dampen vibrations and brake noise, and this is done by making sure the pads sit as close to the true position as possible. Corrosion will build up between the clips and the carrier causing the clips to be off kilter. 4. Rewind the caliper slightly, and use a pick or a mini screwdriver (or I have a spoon set from snapon which is a great seal remover) and pull back the boot slightly and check for a brake fluid leak on the caliper. You will almost always see a little bit of brake fluid, thats fine, but excessive amounts mean the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced. 5. Clean the area on the dust boot and piston on the brake caliper before rewinding it. This stops you from contaminating your system. Brake fluid only lasts a few years and once you open it, you have less than 24 hours to use it because it attracts the moisture in the air. Your method works for people trying to save a buck, but in my opinion skipping steps is a waste of time and money, especially for anyone in the corrision provinces. Additionally, if you live in an area such as the rust belt, you shouls take your breaks apart every spring and fall and do a service. This means service, not replacement unless something is required. If you sand down your break pads, clean out the ridge in the middle, grind down the corrosion lips on the rotors, and also re-grease everything, you can ensure optimal brake perfoemance, which means you will need replacement much later down the line. Its not the most cost efficient for a consumer, but for a DIYer its more than ideal. Anyways nice video. I did enjoy it even if I dont believe in some of your advice.
This vehicle came in the shop, and has long since been gone. So I can't go look at what you're referring to.... is this the clip that holds the cap on?
Look at your brake reservoir, it has a "low" or "add" and "full" lines. Fill it to the "full" line using the recommended fluid stated on the cap. I believe yours will be DOT 3. Brake fluid doesn't wear out or need to be changed like engine oil does.
I didn't. In most cases I find it unnecessary because no air got in the lines. If you remove the brake line from the caliper for any reason, then you definitely need to bleed the lines.
They are slightly smaller in the rear, but basically the same. Which the exception of the rotors because the parking brake uses a drum brake not a disk.
As long as you don't remove the actual brake line, typically you don't need to bleed anything. But remember to give the pedal a few slow pumps once you put the cover back on the master cylinder.
@@louieb1218 once both sides have their brake pads back on, put the cap back on. When you first start your vehicle, your brake pedal will be very soft. Pump it slowly until it returns to normal. This will take about 2-6 pumps. Make sure your master cycle cap is back on prior to doing this, or your pedal will not return to it's normal firmness.
That can vary by different brakes. Some recommendation 6 very hard brakes without stopping to heat them up. I left out the break in procedure for this purpose. But I probably should have mentioned to follow the recommended procedure per your brakes. As you mentioned, some need to break in easy.
@@Blankman776 I think it was lot more important on older vehicles. You're taking the cap off to allow you to compress the pistons, but that it. And you don't need to bleed them after just removing the cap.
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It's people like you that makes TH-cam such a great resource. Exact same car, never changed brake pads before, and successfully did it woth your help. Thank you!!
Thank you.
“ I don’t normally do vehicle maintenance for my ex wife” hahahaha
I cried when he said that! 😂
Great instruction. I'm doing my brakes tomorrow on my 2016 Patriot. Never done it before - looks like a piece of cake.
Good luck. You shouldn't have any trouble.
I have no idea how you just helped with so much detailed info on this swap out, but I sure do like that one bolt removal. Planning on swapping mine out tomorrow before a long trip. Thanks!
Good luck tomorrow and enjoy your trip. Thanks for watching.
I am a Jeep Master mechanic, and me and the boys are just shocked watching yer video. Keep it up champ!
Thank you
Cool of you to comment. 😊❤
I’m in the works of doing this but I need to change my rotors as well, this was very helpful. Thank you!
💯💥Thanks I just Finished my brakes 2mins ago, you the 💣 man!!!
Glad I could be of help. Thanks for watching.
Caliper guide bolt 32 ft lbs. When installing the caliper guide pin bolts make sure that the one that has a special sleeve on the end is installed in the upper mounting hole.
Caliper mounting bracket bolts 80 ft lbs. (only need to remove if replacing the rotor)
Thanks
Just changed the front pads on my 2012, easy to follow and great advice!
Thanks for watching.
this looks so simple dimple w ur instruction- i’m really just nervous about my back drum breaks 😭
You can do it 😃
Yes you can do it !
Great instructional video, well done sir.
Thank you
The definition of a real man
I haven’t had the vehicle very long, I have been familiarizing myself with the car. 2016 2.4 L ,2x4 . Was in the middle of a high speed interstate trip 3-400 ish miles round trip the other day when the front Left started having a little metal on metal sound.didn’t quite catch it in time!darn it!!The got basic set of pads ,43 bucks,(65+ for the same with the parts you didn’t use,so skipped wasting that $)On my car, the OUTSIDE left pad is the culprit. Never had a indication of a problem. No squeal,no pulling to one side…straight to grinding..probably going to be doing job twice. I don’t have the money for rotors right now. BUT I will be keeping an eye on them in the meantime. The previous owners were BIG PEOPLE. Couple was a over the 925Lbs combined weight limit,on long trips,a lot! Any way. Thx. Going to be concentrating on the front left suspension especially. The daily driver (wife)was the biggest of the two. Better get after it. Hot one today in NC. Triple digits w heat index.ugh..ps. Can you get away with turning the rotors (once )on these?or are all modern rotors heading to the trash in this situation??
It will depend on the condition of the rotors. Typically they can be turned at least ones. Although in some cases, new rotors are comparable to turning them price wise.
Dont forget to press the brake pedel a couple of times first before moving the vehicle then check the fluid . Good video , thank you .
Good point. Thanks for watching
i just used this video to help me change my front brake pads on my jeep patriot 2015 , tysm brother! first time ever doing brakes.. and i see your also from the burgh! WWWWW tysm for the video
Glad I could be of help.
great vid!!! as a female who knows NOTHING about cars this video was so helpful
Glad I could be of help to you.
Very informative and thorough. Thanks Dude !
thanks for the vid i have a 2014 and im doing mine today. thanks
Good instruction; thanks. I get front-end braking shake, which seems to indicate rotor warpage. It would be good to see rotor replacement too.
Glad it was helpful. I'll do a rotor video as soon as someone needs rotors changed. Are you local? Free labor in exchange for filming your vehicle.
Awesome video!! Thanks!!........Btw, you can turn your wheels accordingly to make it easier to get to.
Thanks!
I watch your videos From Saltillo Coahuila, México. I will be doing my brake change soon. Thank you for the vídeo.
Thanks for watching. 😀
Thank you my guy ..! 🤝🏻🤝🏻
Doing my 2010 today, knew how it was done but like to see other people’s point of views. You definitely cut down on time if you need to do it quick. Like for a hot day 🥵 😂
Thanks Smokey Jay! Got 'em done.
Great!
Also a little coating of grease on the rubber boot that back of the piston helps keep it from drying out and cracking
I've never greased the boot before, but that makes sense. Thanks for the tip.
awsome job thanks
love the one bolt remove trick
Thank you
Really sr..! What a beautiful video, soooooo .!!!! explained 👍🏻👍🏻
Made it look so easy thanks
Helpful
Thank you for creating this video.
👍
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it. Excited to do mine
Glad I could be of help to you.
Thanks for the help, definitely subscribing.
Thank you
I have a 24 inch long pair of channel locks to squeeze the caliper. Works awesome . 😉 just a little tip
Thanks for the tip.
You can also use a plan big C clap. Use the old pad to push the clapper backb
You're absolutely right. I used that for years until I had a car that had to have the caliber screwed in.
Always a good idea to measure rotor thickness to make sure they're not worn.
That's an excellent point. Early on its easy to see that they're good. But as they wear some, measuring is necessary.
Thanks brother
Glad to help
Thank for sharing much appreciated. Will you be doing another on the rear brakes. Have a jeep patriot 4x4 2016.
Thank you
You should always either replace or resurface your rotors when changing pads
Thank you so much for this video. I saved my self around 500 dollars
Glad I could be of help to you.
You’re a good man
Good thing about working at an auto parts store is that I could get those breaks for $17
Lol you work at a parts store and still call brakes “breaks” that’s sad. Enjoy your 17$ crap pads lol.
Where do you work so I know where NOT to go.
Gonna change mine on my 2015 by myself, only other thing I need to learn is oil change 😂
Great vid except after putting the bottom bolt back in TAKE out the top one and put a bit of grease on it as well
Good catch! Thanks
Great video! But, Ineed to replace the clips too.New pads are very noisy on bumpy roads.
You need to add some anti seize on the back of your pads and on the brake hardware clips where the ends of the pads go in against the hardware .. the pads vibrate slightly and that’s the noise your hearing .. the anti seize takes care of that problem
Thank you so much awesome vid
Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching.
@@SmoknJaysGarage money saver love TH-cam I subbed so clean clear and to the point gona watch you brother
@@fernanjun14 thank you.
Thanks for the video
Great video very helpful
I’m finna try and do it myself
Thank you I’m going to atttemp this.
Good luck, let me know how it goes.
Do you take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir before beginning to do the brakes? If so, doesn't that cause air to get into the lines? Never did brakes before and after watching this video I think I am going to give it a try. Great video 👍
Take the cap off before trying to compress the calipers.
No it doesn't put air into the lines.....but if you run it dry it will......lol........z
Is compressing the piston absolutely required?
Yes it is. The caliper won't go back on otherwise.
Would those bolts not being greased properly cause the brakes to stick and seize every once in a while?
Possibly, yes
@@SmoknJaysGarage I thought so, they seize up every once in a while and when I put it in drive I can feel the brakes sticking and not letting it move so I have to give it gas to get going. The brakes also get pretty hot after a while! Thanks so much!
Nice video 👍
What is the tire lug nut torque specifications?
100 lb-ft
I hope you appreciate some constructive criticism. I only watched the video because I was hoping to get the bolt sizes.
1. Always machine or replace rotors. Just replacing brake pads (pad slap) is not an ideal repair. This is because rotors warp due to heat cycles. If you took a digitial caliper to the brake rotor and measured it in 3 different places, I guarantee they will be different. This is what is causing your shudder when you brake.
2. I would always remove the top slider and apply fresh grease. If you dont, it will stick before the bottom one and will cause vibration and poor brake performance.
3. Its not necessary to replace the anti rattle clips but you should at least clean both the surface of the brake carrier and the clips, and apply fresh grease between each. This will dampen vibrations and brake noise, and this is done by making sure the pads sit as close to the true position as possible. Corrosion will build up between the clips and the carrier causing the clips to be off kilter.
4. Rewind the caliper slightly, and use a pick or a mini screwdriver (or I have a spoon set from snapon which is a great seal remover) and pull back the boot slightly and check for a brake fluid leak on the caliper. You will almost always see a little bit of brake fluid, thats fine, but excessive amounts mean the caliper has to be rebuilt or replaced.
5. Clean the area on the dust boot and piston on the brake caliper before rewinding it. This stops you from contaminating your system. Brake fluid only lasts a few years and once you open it, you have less than 24 hours to use it because it attracts the moisture in the air.
Your method works for people trying to save a buck, but in my opinion skipping steps is a waste of time and money, especially for anyone in the corrision provinces.
Additionally, if you live in an area such as the rust belt, you shouls take your breaks apart every spring and fall and do a service. This means service, not replacement unless something is required.
If you sand down your break pads, clean out the ridge in the middle, grind down the corrosion lips on the rotors, and also re-grease everything, you can ensure optimal brake perfoemance, which means you will need replacement much later down the line. Its not the most cost efficient for a consumer, but for a DIYer its more than ideal.
Anyways nice video. I did enjoy it even if I dont believe in some of your advice.
I literally just bought those same pads for 60 dollars today. Inflation sucks 😫🤦
Ya it does! Damn.
Question?.. What is the reservoir blocker for? ( the black clip on the reservoir neck)
This vehicle came in the shop, and has long since been gone. So I can't go look at what you're referring to.... is this the clip that holds the cap on?
Hello. How do I know if my 2015 Jeep Patriot brake fluid is low or if the brake is worn out?
Look at your brake reservoir, it has a "low" or "add" and "full" lines. Fill it to the "full" line using the recommended fluid stated on the cap. I believe yours will be DOT 3.
Brake fluid doesn't wear out or need to be changed like engine oil does.
Did u happen to bleed ur brakes after changing? Thanks
I didn't. In most cases I find it unnecessary because no air got in the lines. If you remove the brake line from the caliper for any reason, then you definitely need to bleed the lines.
Hi, do i need to loosen the top bolt in order it to flip up?, or it should flip up freely?
You will probably have to loosen it up a little bit.
Thank you
So to loosen up the two bolts, i go to the right?
@@facts1752 righty-tighty, lefty-losy. But keep in mind that you are facing the back side of them, so as you face them, right will loosen.
Makes sense thank you
Do you need to resurface the rotors after
I didn't because these were in good shape. If yours are grooved, you will want to turn or replace them.
Are the rear brakes for the patriot any different? I’ve only seen vids on the front pads so far
They are slightly smaller in the rear, but basically the same.
Which the exception of the rotors because the parking brake uses a drum brake not a disk.
Do you have to bleed the brakes or you don't have to
As long as you don't remove the actual brake line, typically you don't need to bleed anything. But remember to give the pedal a few slow pumps once you put the cover back on the master cylinder.
I just bought those pads, they're about 50 dollars today
you're a great guy doing that for your ex
@@jarettb8304 it didn't take long for prices to go up. That's almost double what they were a few years ago.
How do you take the cap off master cylinder ? Are you pulling the brake pad to the left or to the right?
Just unscrew it.
Smok'n Jay's Garage i'm not sure where the master Cylinder is located
@@louieb1218 on the driver's side, by the firewall. If i recall correctly, on this vehicle it's a white container with a yellow cap.
And then when are you safe to screw it back on?
@@louieb1218 once both sides have their brake pads back on, put the cap back on. When you first start your vehicle, your brake pedal will be very soft. Pump it slowly until it returns to normal. This will take about 2-6 pumps. Make sure your master cycle cap is back on prior to doing this, or your pedal will not return to it's normal firmness.
Also for the first 10 miles or so........take it easy on the braking.....let them wear in gently.........z
That can vary by different brakes. Some recommendation 6 very hard brakes without stopping to heat them up. I left out the break in procedure for this purpose. But I probably should have mentioned to follow the recommended procedure per your brakes.
As you mentioned, some need to break in easy.
How the hell you get the bottom bolt off cause I’m fighting for my life
A breaker bar may be helpful if you have one
Great tutorial. What's your current wife think about you doing your ex-wifes brakes?
Don't have a current wife. 😀
@@SmoknJaysGarage smart man
I always thought you had to bleed the brakes?
I don't because I'm not braking any lines. I've never gotten any air in them from changing pads. But you definitely can if that makes you feel better.
@@SmoknJaysGarage awesome, appreciate it! Always thought that was part of the procedure! I’ll be changing mine this week!
@@Blankman776 I think it was lot more important on older vehicles. You're taking the cap off to allow you to compress the pistons, but that it. And you don't need to bleed them after just removing the cap.
Good one