The professionalism and thoroughness of this tech is really impressive. I spent almost 10 years working in service shops and had Master techs doing half as good a job as her. Has to be the best brake change video out there!
Excellent tutorial! Very impressed with the mechanic and the verbal commentary during the disassembly/assembly of the front rotor and pads. Thank you for posting!
I used every part of this today when I realized my front left brakes had effectively eaten the rotor. Thank you for such a definitive and concise walk through. Very much appreciated.
Never done my own brakes before. Not to discredit the skill this mechanic clearly has, but with the ease in which she completes this...are brakes this easy?
+Matthew Mondon Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I could watch her videos all day I love to work on my Jeep and she gives me confidence that I can do it as a kid I was under the hood with my dad handing him stuff he was a diesel mechanic so thanks
When I pushed the piston back in the caliper I did not open the bleeder screw but forced the fluid back up into the master cylinder. More work but no risk of getting air in the brake line. Just monitor the space available in the master cylinder and extract any fluid that there might not be room enough for in the master cylinder.
Missed some stuff here. Step 1- Open hood. Step 2- Remove cap from reservoir. 3- after the tire is removed, use 8" C-Clamp to squeze caliper piston back before removing any bolts or pads or anything. Then proceed with what is in this video. Also spray the inside of the caliper with BrakeKleen to make sure all parts are clean. Don't want to leave a caliper dirty if everything else was cleaned. oh! and never open the bleeder screw!!! Good quality video. Good job!
I've been doing brakes for more years than I care to remember and this is the first time I have heard to loosen the bleeder prior to compressing the piston. I have always removed the brake reservoir cap prior to compression so as to not cause extra pressure on the seals in the master cylinder and ABS system. When done, immediately replace the cap on the reservoir. So my question is; "Why chance getting air in the system by loosening the bleeder instead of removing the reservoir cap or even chancing breaking the screw and then having to do more work? I truly would like to know the thought behind this... As to everything else, I like the methodology she uses in doing the brakes. I practice about 99% of what she does with the exception of the bleeder screw.
I had to search through the comments to see if this was a Jeep specific thing as I've never heard of opening the bleeder to compress a piston. Most vehicles have aluminum rear calipers and if you live where roads are salted you are never getting a steel bleeder out of an aluminum caliper.
That’s how I’ve been doing mine for 12 years. 99% of the time those bleeder screws are rotted in place, only time fluid is coming out of the system is when I do a dedicated brake flush. Not really necessary for a pad and rotor replacement. Just extremely thorough.
@keith. It’s so you don’t push the old fluid back into the abs system. From what I’ve read is sometimes the old fluid can mess up the system. Actually what I do is attach a bleeder system to my truck and bleed a bit of fluid out of each caliper before I press it back in.
First time I ever saw or heard of maintenance on the caliper slider pins and to not compress the piston back into the caliper by pushing the fluid back into the system. Thank you.
Awesome videos. I did all 4 rotors and pads for my JK this evening, was definitely challenging at moments with some seized bolts and both front rotors seized up a good bit. BUT all in all got it done, next step is to flush the fluid.
I'm a 50year old fella, and I've done a few brake jobs in my day.... and I learned a few things from her in this video. I've seen her in quite a few videos and she's always thorough and confidence inspiring!
Thank you very much for this excellent educational video. Your attention to detail on the front brake system was a life saver for me. You saved me approx $300 in labor cost for my Jeep repair. Carry On and take care.
Really good video. I just changed front/rear brakes, rotors & one rear caliper on my son's 2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. IMO, I always change out the metal clips that hold in the pads with new clips & I also replace the little rubber boots over the pins on the calipers. Of course always use caliper grease on the pins before installing the rubber boots. Kudos for cleaning & lubing around the hub area and for being detailed in your video. I'm getting ready to replace rear brake pads & rotors on my daughter's 2015 Jeep Wrangler Sport this week.
thanks so much for the video! Just completed the front brakes! Rotor was stuck but broke free after a good few whacks with the hammer and had a bit of a pain getting the lug nuts tightened back up without an impact, but overall very straightforward. I just followed the video to a T and got it done in an evening. Thanks again!
I think I"d prefer to fly Sue down to the Gainesville, FL area and she and I can just knock out my rotors/pads really quickly. :) She's a great teacher. (author Sharon, on Dave's computer)
I watched my neighbor do this a few times and it never made sense to me before watching her do it and now I will do it this way as well. Much easier to seat the pads without the caliper.
Amazing that they have a woman show us!! Love seeing more women out there tackling down jobs that guys normally do. I'm going to change my brakes on my 2015 Jeep Wrangler!!! Thank you for this video!!!
I just finished mine and did the ball joints while doing it. After finishing, I have the codes for right and left speed sensor and several dash lights; brake, abs, stability control. Any ideas while i redo this? Thanks for the video
So after u gravity bleed u tighten back up the bleeder screw and throw your tires back on and pump the brakes and thats all u need to do. Brakes seem pretty self explanatory except doing the whole bleeding part always confused me. If i do it just like u did ill be fine and im assuming both left and right side front need to be done this way correct.? Push piston back in and let the fluid bleed out till piston is all the way back in. Close bleeder screw and then right before u put your tire back on let it bleed out for another min (gravity bleed). Tighten it back up and put the tire on and thats it, pump brakes and your good to go is that right.? Do i have to add more brake fluid or anything since i pushed all the old out.
+Mark Morissette Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. She has about 20 years experience. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I'd like to try on my wrangler. But after watching few videos im clueless.. some people dont bleed their caliper, they just use old pads and compress the cylinder using pryers..in order to put the caliper back.. do we really need to bleed it? With that amount of oil brake dripping.. do we need to refill/top the brake fluid reservoir? Lastly can we use copper antiseize instead of the silver?
16:24 Holy carp! That wheel placement was amazing! Also, just got my front & rear pad + rotor kit and E-brake shoes. Great quality. I called hoping to get a rear bearing kit included in my order. Great service, but sadly you only carry the front bearing hubs. ☮❤🌈
15:55 do all version of jk wrangler use this bleeder screw? and do you do that because changing the brakes raises the level of the brake fluid artificially in the engine compartment?
Most people would just use a clamp and squeeze the caliber piston back and the fluid goes back into the reservoir. Then you don’t need to bleed the brakes. Wood ratchet clamp works fine. Don’t touch the bleeder unless you’re changing the caliper. You don’t need much force to squeeze it. Otherwise you’ll get air i the lines most likely...even a little air will make your brakes feel soft.
I have a 2013 JKU. I was performing the drivers side front brake service and I noticed the one of the caliper slide pins does not slide into the caliper as far as the other one. Is that by design? It is not like that on the passenger side. I looked for debris in the caliper and made sure I did not use too much lubricant. Am I missing something?
Turns out there was debris blocking the pin from sliding completely into the caliper. The head of a q-tip I used to clean out the old grease got compacted down into the bottom of the cavity in the caliper. Disaster avoided!
Edward Dinh this is common practice nowadays especially on ABS vehicles so when the piston is pushed back into the caliper, any of the possibly contaminated brake fluid that is hanging out in the piston area is evacuated from the system instead of being pushed back up into the rest of the system and/or the ABS module.
I always put my caliper brackets in an ultrasonic cleaner and reuse all the hardware except the clips. They look brand new when I reinstall them. Not a single spec of rust or brake dust…just silvery metal.
Get some safety glasses on! You don't need to be rushed to an emergency room to get solvent out of your eyes and possibly loose your eyesight! You have no control over where the spray goes once it hits the intended surface and deflects back to your face!
You should see the underside of my Jeep. An 08 with only 60k miles. But I swear they took it beach cruising every weekend. This Jeep in the video is virtually rust free compared to what I am working with.
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She’s such a good teacher and walks you through it step by step you can tell she’s an experienced mechanic
The professionalism and thoroughness of this tech is really impressive. I spent almost 10 years working in service shops and had Master techs doing half as good a job as her. Has to be the best brake change video out there!
Excellent tutorial! Very impressed with the mechanic and the verbal commentary during the disassembly/assembly of the front rotor and pads. Thank you for posting!
+ukimonkey1 Thanks for the feedback!
I used every part of this today when I realized my front left brakes had effectively eaten the rotor. Thank you for such a definitive and concise walk through. Very much appreciated.
I’ve watched this video 16 times. Pick up something new each time. Thank you!
You kids need to calm down about the "leaf spring" mention. She made a mistake while ON CAMERA. She knows the damn difference. Great video Sue.
+n3tfury Thank you!
Never done my own brakes before. Not to discredit the skill this mechanic clearly has, but with the ease in which she completes this...are brakes this easy?
Sue was awesome and just as awesome at teaching, give her a raise . Thank you for the vid.
Dude this lady is an absolute savage! Excellent tutorial!
+Matthew Mondon Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
A great, professional video! Others take way longer to tell you way less. I'm likely a future customer too.
I could watch her videos all day I love to work on my Jeep and she gives me confidence that I can do it as a kid I was under the hood with my dad handing him stuff he was a diesel mechanic so thanks
When I pushed the piston back in the caliper I did not open the bleeder screw but forced the fluid back up into the master cylinder. More work but no risk of getting air in the brake line. Just monitor the space available in the master cylinder and extract any fluid that there might not be room enough for in the master cylinder.
Missed some stuff here. Step 1- Open hood. Step 2- Remove cap from reservoir. 3- after the tire is removed, use 8" C-Clamp to squeze caliper piston back before removing any bolts or pads or anything. Then proceed with what is in this video. Also spray the inside of the caliper with BrakeKleen to make sure all parts are clean. Don't want to leave a caliper dirty if everything else was cleaned. oh! and never open the bleeder screw!!! Good quality video. Good job!
Luis Cosme yeah I didn’t get why she opened the bleeder 🤦🏻♂️ she just created more work for herself
If you know so much why are you watching? It's actually a good idea to open bleeder...
I've been doing brakes for more years than I care to remember and this is the first time I have heard to loosen the bleeder prior to compressing the piston. I have always removed the brake reservoir cap prior to compression so as to not cause extra pressure on the seals in the master cylinder and ABS system. When done, immediately replace the cap on the reservoir.
So my question is; "Why chance getting air in the system by loosening the bleeder instead of removing the reservoir cap or even chancing breaking the screw and then having to do more work?
I truly would like to know the thought behind this... As to everything else, I like the methodology she uses in doing the brakes. I practice about 99% of what she does with the exception of the bleeder screw.
Thats the way ive always done it as well Keith, Did you ever work out if there was an advantage to loosening the bleeder screw? Cheers
I had to search through the comments to see if this was a Jeep specific thing as I've never heard of opening the bleeder to compress a piston. Most vehicles have aluminum rear calipers and if you live where roads are salted you are never getting a steel bleeder out of an aluminum caliper.
She also called the coil spring a leaf spring so I think she may not have as much automotive experience as many others.
That’s how I’ve been doing mine for 12 years. 99% of the time those bleeder screws are rotted in place, only time fluid is coming out of the system is when I do a dedicated brake flush. Not really necessary for a pad and rotor replacement. Just extremely thorough.
@keith. It’s so you don’t push the old fluid back into the abs system. From what I’ve read is sometimes the old fluid can mess up the system. Actually what I do is attach a bleeder system to my truck and bleed a bit of fluid out of each caliper before I press it back in.
First time I ever saw or heard of maintenance on the caliper slider pins and to not compress the piston back into the caliper by pushing the fluid back into the system. Thank you.
+Doug Bourdo Thank you!
Awesome videos. I did all 4 rotors and pads for my JK this evening, was definitely challenging at moments with some seized bolts and both front rotors seized up a good bit. BUT all in all got it done, next step is to flush the fluid.
As a female this is great watching a woman do it! Going to tackle mine this weekend so just getting an idea of what to do. Thanks~
+JL BREMER Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
yeah, just make sure you don't place it on the "leaf" spring. 2:40
How did it go? I'm about to start on mine this weekend. I'm watching as much videos as I can to get er done!!
I'm a 50year old fella, and I've done a few brake jobs in my day.... and I learned a few things from her in this video. I've seen her in quite a few videos and she's always thorough and confidence inspiring!
Thank you very much for this excellent educational video. Your attention to detail on the front brake system was a life saver for me. You saved me approx $300 in labor cost for my Jeep repair. Carry On and take care.
This is going to help me immensely today! Thanks!!
Thank you for this! Going to tackle both front and rear brakes while I'm on vacation..
I know...nice vacation 😄
Really good video. I just changed front/rear brakes, rotors & one rear caliper on my son's 2008 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. IMO, I always change out the metal clips that hold in the pads with new clips & I also replace the little rubber boots over the pins on the calipers. Of course always use caliper grease on the pins before installing the rubber boots. Kudos for cleaning & lubing around the hub area and for being detailed in your video. I'm getting ready to replace rear brake pads & rotors on my daughter's 2015 Jeep Wrangler Sport this week.
+Scott D Thank you!
Your instructions were fantastic , thanks loads .
thanks so much for the video! Just completed the front brakes! Rotor was stuck but broke free after a good few whacks with the hammer and had a bit of a pain getting the lug nuts tightened back up without an impact, but overall very straightforward. I just followed the video to a T and got it done in an evening. Thanks again!
+Luke Hyland Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great video, I love how you torqued all the bolts properly
Another fantastic and informative video. Keep up the good work Sue
+tazin8r Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video, need to show checking / adding brake fluid before firming up the pedal.
Clear speech, nice camera work, short and sweet. 🔧🚙👍🎥
Couldn't have been more helpful. Great video.
+sudkrap Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Perfect! Nicely done.Thank You. 🌞
Thank you for the instruction, very helpful!
More cowbell! Great video. You helped me a lot.
We LOVE Sue! Nice work!!
Thanks for checking us out and for the nice comments! 1aauto.com +BobboCJ7
Ya'll are awesome! Love your videos AND your parts!
I think I"d prefer to fly Sue down to the Gainesville, FL area and she and I can just knock out my rotors/pads really quickly. :) She's a great teacher. (author Sharon, on Dave's computer)
I've never separated the caliper like this for a brake job but this certainly seems like a much easier, more thorough way to do it. Thanks!
+hh65flyer Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
I watched my neighbor do this a few times and it never made sense to me before watching her do it and now I will do it this way as well. Much easier to seat the pads without the caliper.
Excellent video thanks so much for this !!
That was a great tutorial! Awesome job thank you!😎👍
+Anibal Babilonia Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Amazing that they have a woman show us!! Love seeing more women out there tackling down jobs that guys normally do.
I'm going to change my brakes on my 2015 Jeep Wrangler!!!
Thank you for this video!!!
+The life of Cali_Star Thanks for checking us out and the positive feedback! 1AAuto.com
Nice job!
Awesome video! Thanks!
I just finished mine and did the ball joints while doing it. After finishing, I have the codes for right and left speed sensor and several dash lights; brake, abs, stability control. Any ideas while i redo this?
Thanks for the video
So after u gravity bleed u tighten back up the bleeder screw and throw your tires back on and pump the brakes and thats all u need to do. Brakes seem pretty self explanatory except doing the whole bleeding part always confused me. If i do it just like u did ill be fine and im assuming both left and right side front need to be done this way correct.?
Push piston back in and let the fluid bleed out till piston is all the way back in. Close bleeder screw and then right before u put your tire back on let it bleed out for another min (gravity bleed). Tighten it back up and put the tire on and thats it, pump brakes and your good to go is that right.? Do i have to add more brake fluid or anything since i pushed all the old out.
Great video
Best brake job ever 💪👌
Thank you for watching our video! +Salty man Reviews
Thank you!
Very good indeed.
Excellent
Sue, thanks so much for this excellent video! Super job, great step by step explanation! Just wondering, how long have you been a technician?
+Mark Morissette Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. She has about 20 years experience. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I'd like to try on my wrangler. But after watching few videos im clueless.. some people dont bleed their caliper, they just use old pads and compress the cylinder using pryers..in order to put the caliper back.. do we really need to bleed it? With that amount of oil brake dripping.. do we need to refill/top the brake fluid reservoir? Lastly can we use copper antiseize instead of the silver?
Should you put anti seize on the outer 21mm Bracket Bolts??
Cool story bro 😎
No pos estas machin....que clase la neta......un aplauso.... 👏
Amazing
So after replacing brake pads and rotors, would i then need to do a brake fluid flush?
16:24 Holy carp! That wheel placement was amazing!
Also, just got my front & rear pad + rotor kit and E-brake shoes. Great quality. I called hoping to get a rear bearing kit included in my order. Great service, but sadly you only carry the front bearing hubs.
☮❤🌈
Coil spring maam, not a leaf. Great Video~!
Does it matter if i interchange the inner and outer pad?
I noticed that metal tab is on the outside pad the way i installed it?
Do I notice a Boston accent? Awesome video btw. Thank you.
Do you have to worry about touching the rotor or face of braoe pad?
15:55 do all version of jk wrangler use this bleeder screw? and do you do that because changing the brakes raises the level of the brake fluid artificially in the engine compartment?
Most people would just use a clamp and squeeze the caliber piston back and the fluid goes back into the reservoir. Then you don’t need to bleed the brakes. Wood ratchet clamp works fine. Don’t touch the bleeder unless you’re changing the caliper. You don’t need much force to squeeze it. Otherwise you’ll get air i the lines most likely...even a little air will make your brakes feel soft.
Why should you not push the brake fluid back into the abs system?
any tips on dealing with bolts / nuts / brackets that are rusted or corroded and hard to unscrew :)
You can use any degreaser from you local auto parts store. Thanks for watching. +Johnny Darko
Still not sure what tool you used with the piston? Very little instruction there.
I have a 2013 JKU. I was performing the drivers side front brake service and I noticed the one of the caliper slide pins does not slide into the caliper as far as the other one. Is that by design? It is not like that on the passenger side. I looked for debris in the caliper and made sure I did not use too much lubricant. Am I missing something?
Turns out there was debris blocking the pin from sliding completely into the caliper. The head of a q-tip I used to clean out the old grease got compacted down into the bottom of the cavity in the caliper. Disaster avoided!
What spray cleaner do you use? To clean the rotors.
any brake cleaner
Why is she taking off the bleeder screw? It's not necessary
Edward Dinh this is common practice nowadays especially on ABS vehicles so when the piston is pushed back into the caliper, any of the possibly contaminated brake fluid that is hanging out in the piston area is evacuated from the system instead of being pushed back up into the rest of the system and/or the ABS module.
Was saying the same thing lol it isn’t necessary
So there’s no bleeding involved, as in having someone pumping the brakes and someone bleeding the valve??
+brading84 Thanks for watching! There is a bleed involved, it is just a gravity bleed as she demonstrates at 15:34. 1aauto.com
Nice "leaf" Spring. Lol😂😂😂😅😅
I have one concern - you didn't wear a mask when you created iron oxide dust .
front caliper adapter torque specs is 120 ftlbs (not 100 as you stated)
Where can I find what the torque specs are for my vehicle?
Love it! My dad doesn’t know Sh*t!! 😆
U good
17 not the same, or some 18s ? They are JK/Us
How it is done. Properly
+@epasternak4206 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I always put my caliper brackets in an ultrasonic cleaner and reuse all the hardware except the clips. They look brand new when I reinstall them. Not a single spec of rust or brake dust…just silvery metal.
+@Jake-pq3iz Thanks for the feedback!
2:45 - that's not a leaf spring...
Oh well, I have friends that still call a pistol magazine a clip instead of a magazine. I guess it's just semantics. Lok
@@rockinstone123 LMAO I have those friends too. Kills me inside a little when I hear it.
I’ll just rest the caliper on the “leaf spring” ?????????????? What leaf spring
+Rodger VanAusdal Thanks for the feedback!
That woman is tough
👍
At 2:47 she says leaf spring. That’s a coil spring. I know, because I’m a certified TH-cam mechanic… 🤓
"...and if you need any pahts fur ya cah"
Get some safety glasses on! You don't need to be rushed to an emergency room to get solvent out of your eyes and possibly loose your eyesight! You have no control over where the spray goes once it hits the intended surface and deflects back to your face!
6:16 " ...no severe rust built up" Are you blind! Did you not see the knuckle? OMG!!!
You should see the underside of my Jeep. An 08 with only 60k miles. But I swear they took it beach cruising every weekend. This Jeep in the video is virtually rust free compared to what I am working with.
Severe rust during inspections equals pitting or damage to the parts. Having rust present is expected.
This is going to help me immensely today! Thanks!!
+BK Slots Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com