Thank you very MUCH! Your profiles have saved me Time and money over many months now. With my government giving us around 5 hours of power at a time, I needed to learn how to use it wisely. Print resume doesn't always work as planned. So your super fast profiles have saved me both time and wasted filament. I use your Ender 2 profiles stock on all my printers. They are wonderfull. Yes, running 5mm retraction on a Ender 3 S1 sprite direct drive still works. And here you are giving another profile I will use on my Ender 3 S1 with the 0.6mm Creality Hardened Steel nozzle, I bought the verity pack on Amazon last year. From 0.3mm to the 0.6mm nozzles. Edit: Sometimes you just need a really good print, faster. And here you go again. Giving me what I need. I am prototyping new products. I am a very small, sole proprietor, looking at the big ocean. And here you go helping us again. Once I am set, I will support you more than just with a like and subscribe.
@@platinumdynamite South Africa. Where crime and curruption has destroyed our economy. Where our chief of police (Since apointed to another office), a member of Interpol's wife turned out to be a drug smuggler. We are looking at 10 years of repairs to our power grid, if all goes well. 10 years to put it back to the condition it was during the apartheid era. FYI I am POC...
CHEP, thank you, I used your profile on my CR-10 clone and it worked great. Seriously thank you for all of your videos, I learned a lot from your videos.
Just wanted to say thanks. This profile works perfect on my ender 3. The first two prints came out great. I just bought my first 3d printer about 3 weeks ago and I have been watching your videos and I just want to tell you that you're awesome dude!!!
Thank you for sharing this . I am currently using a slightly modified version of your 0.4mm profile for my 0.6mm nozzle on sovol sv01 and it works good. I will try this , hoping this might be better !!😊
This is perfectly timed for me. I'm using a Ender 5 Plus, direct drive DIY conversion. I'm slicing prints to dial in material setting for Amoleb Wood PLA, I'm making a pirate ship "The Lady Harpy" an incredible stl from Loot Studios. So I want the ships hull, spars, Nast etc in the wood, but.... Wood works better with .5 or .6 nozzle. SOOoo a quality 0.6 profile is EXACTLY what I needed.
Man you have my sincerely thanks for the shared profile. Changed to 0.6 Nozzle and got printing spot on! Do you by any chance have other profiles shared 0.6 Draft quality / 0.8 Fine & Draft ones ? I thank you again for shared profile. Worked like charm on my Ender 3 with E3D V6 and BMG Bowden Clones installed
Have you tried the concept of using a 0.4 nozzle with 0.6 settings? It appears to work as normal without pretty much any issues I've attempted this on a few items and seems to not be a problem
Great video as always, and thank you for the shout-out🥰 I wish I dared to use a 0.6mm nozzle more often. I had a 0.6mm nozzle on a now decommissioned Ender 3 which I used for wood filament with great results
One thing I do like about 0.6 nozzles is that I can set the top layers to print at 0.4 line width and end up with some nice surfaces, kind of like ironing but faster. Probably depends on the nozzle, though.
Most of my prints lately have had more of a time crunch than a requirement for fine detail. I'm still running on 0.4mm nozzles. I think I'm going to give this a shot and see how much time switching to a 0.6mm nozzle will save me. This week I had two Ender 3s running nonstop from Sunday night through Friday morning and just barely made the deadline. A little more leeway would be nice.
I wish I could get my .6 printing acceptably at all. I've tweaked everything, heat, layer height, retraction higher and lower, speed, infill types and amounts, replaced the bowden tube, calibrated esteps and linear advance and nothing will get rid of my stringing or tiny wall gaps. I hope I don't have to resign myself to stay on a .4mm nozzle exclusively.
Update- I figured out my main issue where the gaps were concerned. I'm now getting little to no stringing and no gaps. Everywhere I turned told me it was wet filament which just isn't the case (I have a dryer box and dried it multiple times.) I solved it by turning my retraction almost off to 1mm distance and worked up to the optimal setting for me and a Bowden set up on an ender 3 max, which was much lower than I was willing to try at first. It works well at 2.5mm retraction distance.
Hi there, I think your youtube videos are great /very helpful and always straight to the point. i have a question for you. have you tried a Lithphane Print with a 0.6 nozzle? if yes how did it look or will you be doing a video for people to see? thanks in advanced for your reply and keep up the useful videos
Lithophanes work well with a 0.6 I changed to one a while ago but went back to a 0.4 I use a 0.6 preset when I want to print bigger and a 0.4 preset for details, there are videos that kinda made me use a 0.4 with a 0.6 profile seems to work pretty well and best of both worlds
First.. thanks CHEP for all you do. I'm new to all this (3 months) and trying to start Into lithophanes (and modeling). Thanks for this profile. I'm wanting really nice detail because their gifts. So a .4 nozzle with a .6 profile would be good? Tried a .2 nozzle with a .4 setting a few days ago but I think my setting is off. Thx again
@@leo3times look up thomas sanladerer on TH-cam he has a video on it, I've been using it for about a week, I was strictly 0.6 nozzles till i thought about trying this and now it's working great I've printed off minis using 0.1 layer height and 0.4 extrusion now I'm printing a bigger model using a .24 layer height and 0.6 extrusion
You the best. I love my .6 Nozzle But was having an issue with print in place! Im going to give it a shot now Thanks chuck. I'm curious to know if you've tried CHT nozzles yet and what do you think
@@daliasprints9798 yeah I ordered some of knockoffs. Not that I support clones. But I figured might as well test them and see. I haven't put them in yet
@@josefdahari The MK8 CHT clones were unusable for me. My extruder kept slipping even at slow speeds. I don't know how the CNC Kitchen guy got them to work. Maybe if you already have a really good hot end, that can melt the filament quickly.
@@overseerbrian yah I've been seeing a few people who are saying oh the clones are better than the originals yada yada I'm sitting on a few .4s and a few .6s haven't really got a chance to toss them on one of my printers yet. Was going to .6. But yeah I've seen CNC say it's been working great in using a stock hot end on sv01 figure I'd give it a try but yeah was worried it will cause more issues than I want. I don't even know what I'd do to gain the benefits of using them in the first place to be honest
The top layer appearance can be improved drastically by having 1 skin layer at 0.32mm and having ironing on with 5-10% flow rate. The top layer for this profile is quite sparse.
Very cool. I will download and install right away. Chep, would it be possible to focus on one of the next Filament Fridays on how to print PLA safely? I am a newbie with 3d printing, but I am concerned about the particles emitted when PLA is printed. There are several scientific articles online about this issue. As a hobbyist, I have the printer in my house. I love 3d printing, but I'd also love to print safely. I wonder whether you could suggest an enclosure, or filter, anything that might help us print happy and print safe.
You sir are a gentleman, thank you for all the work you do for us. .6 nozzles rock, with Arachne there isn’t many prints that need a .4 nozzle anymore. Cheers mate 👍🇦🇺😊
Great video and really helpful parameters. Have a project with larger / less detail pieces moving to .6 nozzle on the Ender V3 SE is a time saver. Having an issue with one of the pieces - infill is globbing up. I can hear the hot end hitting it and I stop the print. I’ve tried different infill types and slowed the speed, still occurs. Any suggestions appreciated on which setting likely needs the most adjustment.
I'm using Anycubic printers - i3 Mega S and Kobra Max. Your cura profiles will not import. They give errors regarding quality type like "standard" and "low" not supported.
Like this idea of saving time on my prints and they still look good. I'll have to get some .6 nozzles. Trouble shooting question. I have Ender 3 and Cura version 5.2.2, For some reason recently when printing petg after preheating it changes the set temp from 235 to 175c and it goes into/errors and need to shut it down. If I catch it and adjust the temperature fast enough it continues and starts the print. I have search everywhere and can't see the where 175 is coming from. ? Ideas please.
works good on ender 3 pro. thumbs up. only problem is the z hop. doesn't seem to retract enough or fast enough maybe, leaves a bit of a blob on the surface. any suggestions? feel like when i change my cura retraction, it doesnt do much.
I am tryign to add this profile to Cura 5.3 and can't figure out how to do it. When I run your file it just changes the settings to the current setting I have in Cura instead of allowing me to create a new one - help!
That's badass. But I have a question: if we can adjust a 0.6 nozzle to do small good detail prints, can we adjust a 0.4 to do the same thing, but smaller? I have requirements for very fine, smooth, detailed prints.
I find with your fast settings and a CR10 + 0.6mm nozzle, I fight between poor adhesion or having the edges of the first later peel-up. It seems that if you "squish" the first layer extrusion a bit too much, it goes too flat/wide and "cups" on the outer edge, too little "squish" and it won't adhere to the caborundum/glass bed. 0.4 and default settings in Cura were never a problem... Ideas?
Hi, Chuck. What is the best preset or settings for printing a dome (for a lamp)? I need it to be translucid and smooth as possible. I thought of printing it with no infill and no supports but my first attempts (with abs) ended up with layer (wall) splitting. Thanks!
I'm trying your profile with my ender 3 V2 now. I notice that 1 second after every retraction, it makes a small gap in the print. I'm wondering if I should try increasing or decreasing retraction distance?
I'm trying to get an 0.6 to speed up my process with ASA. I have achieved the strength and speed I'm looking for but there is one (4mm dia.) area that is is curved upwards at a mere 70 degrees and I get curling at the edge which leads to a clump of plastic along the edge but is fine elsewhere. I've tried many settings but what the 0.4 nozzle has no trouble with the 0.6 insists on curling in this area. Even at 0.15 Layer Height on the 0.6 nozzle I am getting curling. As I understand it the theory is that the ASA is shrinking and I've adjusted accordingly with all the popular settings. Preliminary results of my tests so far show I can take my 8 hour print down to 3, if only I can fix this problem. I've run the normal Gambit of Temperature, Speed, Layer Height ect. so I am wondering if wall overlap and skin penetration and whatever else anyone can think of that might help.
Tried the old .6 profile on a Neptune 3 Pro. Does not read profile due to elegoo_base. Tried transferring the settings using notepad but it just didn't print right. Will try this one. Was using petg
You are better off just making notes of the settings and then entering them yourself, I uploaded the FF profile that was meant for an ender 2 to my Ender 5 Plus printer setting and thought I could just change the bed size back but even though I changed the bed size Cura thought my bed was the size of an ender 2 and it ruined Cura, I had to uninstall and go deep into my file system to remove all the files that an uninstall does not remove, after a couple of hours of painful file searching I remembered I could have just rolled back the OS to before I installed the FF profile
It seems like you cannot change the nozzle size in Cura 5.3 whilst in Cura 5.2.2 it's as easy as using a drop-down menu. So where has that option gone in Cura 5.3.0. Is this the point that I will be changing to PrusaSlicer 2.6?
@@FilamentFriday no chep, its on cura, for example 20mm high at 0.25 each layers, total layers 78. the right answer should 80 layers. It's happening when not using a 0.2 layer high.
prints wont stick to bed so i use elmers glue snd works the trouble is i cant get it off the bed lol the bed glass creality cr 6 also some time i have string and sometimes the printer will break idk why
I think we are seeing different images. Because you say that the differences are very small in the Benchys at 0.4mm and 0.6mm. I see abysmal differences. Look at the ceiling. Look at the edges...
Too many to produce an image. I have older versions on my CHEPCLUB.com site for Patreon supporters. You could just install a later version of Cura as well.
Why is the infill line width set to .7mm? It seems to me that is a waste of filament. Unless you need an especially strong part, a smaller infill line width at whatever spacing is needed would use less filament.
I have some 0.6 nozzles and was considering switching over my Ender 3 S1 pro. Only problem is, I print lots of stuff from Cinderwing and Flexi Factory and I don't want to take a hit on quality. Anyone having good quality with a 0.6 right now?
@Paul Robertson so I bought a sonic pad for my 3s1 pro. Now I wonder if I should set it up first with the 0.4 and then move to the 0.6. Or, just use the sonic pad on my other printer.
I have an ender 3 DD, I think u might need to change just the retraction settings. If the flow is 100% and your E steps are calibrated it should convert well enough to try. might need some dialing in, but that's half the fun right?
@@tekno4blood Thanks! I have a Sovol SV01 and a SV06. I may have to give this a try. I don't use Cura (use PrusaSlicer) but I may give it a try. Thanks again!!
@@user-bt9ek2dv2y My advice, download Cura and load the profile he has, then go back and forth between the two and try to eliminate as many variables as you can. Build a new profile from his experimental one, save that, copy it into a new profile, and then tweek that one. If it's better than the last, erase the first modified version and keep going until its as perfect as you can make it. But that's just me.
0.6 isn't worth it in my opinion unless you are printing with thick layers and your printer can handle high volumetric flow. You can pretty much get the same thing with increased extrusion width on a 0.4. Also 0.6 nozzles will increase the size of every printing artifact and make them more obvious and ugly and there are some things you just can't print with them.
Thank you very MUCH! Your profiles have saved me Time and money over many months now.
With my government giving us around 5 hours of power at a time, I needed to learn how to use it wisely. Print resume doesn't always work as planned.
So your super fast profiles have saved me both time and wasted filament.
I use your Ender 2 profiles stock on all my printers. They are wonderfull.
Yes, running 5mm retraction on a Ender 3 S1 sprite direct drive still works.
And here you are giving another profile I will use on my Ender 3 S1 with the 0.6mm Creality Hardened Steel nozzle, I bought the verity pack on Amazon last year. From 0.3mm to the 0.6mm nozzles.
Edit:
Sometimes you just need a really good print, faster. And here you go again. Giving me what I need.
I am prototyping new products. I am a very small, sole proprietor, looking at the big ocean. And here you go helping us again.
Once I am set, I will support you more than just with a like and subscribe.
Where do you live? Hope your projects are all going well.
@@platinumdynamite South Africa. Where crime and curruption has destroyed our economy. Where our chief of police (Since apointed to another office), a member of Interpol's wife turned out to be a drug smuggler. We are looking at 10 years of repairs to our power grid, if all goes well. 10 years to put it back to the condition it was during the apartheid era. FYI I am POC...
CHEP, thank you, I used your profile on my CR-10 clone and it worked great. Seriously thank you for all of your videos, I learned a lot from your videos.
Thanks for watching.
Chuck you've outdone yourself again! Thanks a lot for this.
Just wanted to say thanks. This profile works perfect on my ender 3. The first two prints came out great. I just bought my first 3d printer about 3 weeks ago and I have been watching your videos and I just want to tell you that you're awesome dude!!!
Thanks
Switched to a 0.6 recently and this is a gift!
As always Chuck, you are the man! I so appreciate all of the help you have provided with your videos.
Thank you for sharing this . I am currently using a slightly modified version of your 0.4mm profile for my 0.6mm nozzle on sovol sv01 and it works good. I will try this , hoping this might be better !!😊
You friggin’ ROCK!
I second that motion! All in favor??
I just got a 0.6 nozzle yesterday. This is perfect
Big Thumbs Up Chuck!
Big Hug for that profile - THANKS A LOT!
Chuck. It feels like Christmas with the free profile. Thank You
Wow! Huge thanks, these profiles are so great. I just printed small (.75 module) gears with this and a .6mm hi-flow nozzle and they look/work great
I just tried it, perfect, Many thank's for your job.
This is perfectly timed for me. I'm using a Ender 5 Plus, direct drive DIY conversion. I'm slicing prints to dial in material setting for Amoleb Wood PLA, I'm making a pirate ship "The Lady Harpy" an incredible stl from Loot Studios. So I want the ships hull, spars, Nast etc in the wood, but.... Wood works better with .5 or .6 nozzle. SOOoo a quality 0.6 profile is EXACTLY what I needed.
would be SUPER nice if there where a set of "PETG -0.6mm Nozzle" profiles!
Awesome work you do! Keep it up:)
THANK YOU!
As a new printer, I have been struggling to get a grasp on cura settings. Your profile made my prints 100% better!
I know you didn't have 2 do this now, but we thank you very much!!! Yay!!!
Now this is the content i love from this channel, go to Heck with those reviews. Anyone can make them, and they do!
You are the doctor of slicing!
I got a .6 nozzle thinking I'd made a mistake after the fact so this is great!!
Thank you very much! This profile helped me a lot!
Man you have my sincerely thanks for the shared profile. Changed to 0.6 Nozzle and got printing spot on!
Do you by any chance have other profiles shared 0.6 Draft quality / 0.8 Fine & Draft ones ?
I thank you again for shared profile. Worked like charm on my Ender 3 with E3D V6 and BMG Bowden Clones installed
Thanks Chep! I gotta do some maintainence on a printer tomorrow, I might swap in a .6 nozzle and give this a crack!
I'm going to give it a go @ .10 for mini armors. I tried it once before on an Aries, but the lines were still heavy.
thank you for sharing young man
Have you tried the concept of using a 0.4 nozzle with 0.6 settings? It appears to work as normal without pretty much any issues I've attempted this on a few items and seems to not be a problem
Great video as always, and thank you for the shout-out🥰 I wish I dared to use a 0.6mm nozzle more often. I had a 0.6mm nozzle on a now decommissioned Ender 3 which I used for wood filament with great results
and here I am, considering permanently switching to 0.2mm nozzles because of how CRISP they print :)
One thing I do like about 0.6 nozzles is that I can set the top layers to print at 0.4 line width and end up with some nice surfaces, kind of like ironing but faster. Probably depends on the nozzle, though.
Most of my prints lately have had more of a time crunch than a requirement for fine detail. I'm still running on 0.4mm nozzles. I think I'm going to give this a shot and see how much time switching to a 0.6mm nozzle will save me. This week I had two Ender 3s running nonstop from Sunday night through Friday morning and just barely made the deadline. A little more leeway would be nice.
Profiles for Klipper/Sonic Pad would be awsome Chep!
You sure your not Santa clause with the free profile ? Your the best. Thank You 🙏
you are the best, sir!
Awesome profiles as always!!
Are you planing to make a 0.2mm profile for fast high detail printings? I would love to see that coming!!
Thanks!
Thank you CHEP.
I wish I could get my .6 printing acceptably at all. I've tweaked everything, heat, layer height, retraction higher and lower, speed, infill types and amounts, replaced the bowden tube, calibrated esteps and linear advance and nothing will get rid of my stringing or tiny wall gaps. I hope I don't have to resign myself to stay on a .4mm nozzle exclusively.
Update- I figured out my main issue where the gaps were concerned. I'm now getting little to no stringing and no gaps. Everywhere I turned told me it was wet filament which just isn't the case (I have a dryer box and dried it multiple times.) I solved it by turning my retraction almost off to 1mm distance and worked up to the optimal setting for me and a Bowden set up on an ender 3 max, which was much lower than I was willing to try at first. It works well at 2.5mm retraction distance.
Fantastic work, Chuck! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hi there,
I think your youtube videos are great /very helpful and always straight to the point.
i have a question for you.
have you tried a Lithphane Print with a 0.6 nozzle? if yes how did it look or will you be doing a video for people to see?
thanks in advanced for your reply and keep up the useful videos
Lithophanes work well with a 0.6 I changed to one a while ago but went back to a 0.4 I use a 0.6 preset when I want to print bigger and a 0.4 preset for details, there are videos that kinda made me use a 0.4 with a 0.6 profile seems to work pretty well and best of both worlds
First.. thanks CHEP for all you do. I'm new to all this (3 months) and trying to start Into lithophanes (and modeling). Thanks for this profile. I'm wanting really nice detail because their gifts. So a .4 nozzle with a .6 profile would be good? Tried a .2 nozzle with a .4 setting a few days ago but I think my setting is off. Thx again
@@leo3times look up thomas sanladerer on TH-cam he has a video on it, I've been using it for about a week, I was strictly 0.6 nozzles till i thought about trying this and now it's working great I've printed off minis using 0.1 layer height and 0.4 extrusion now I'm printing a bigger model using a .24 layer height and 0.6 extrusion
Also just to note in using this profile now to print just changed layer height to .24 which is my preference
@@thatguyownzz1481 Thanks. Will check it out.
You the best. I love my .6 Nozzle But was having an issue with print in place! Im going to give it a shot now
Thanks chuck. I'm curious to know if you've tried CHT nozzles yet and what do you think
I've used both the CHT and Bozzle and love them.
@@daliasprints9798 yeah I ordered some of knockoffs. Not that I support clones. But I figured might as well test them and see. I haven't put them in yet
@@josefdahari The MK8 CHT clones were unusable for me. My extruder kept slipping even at slow speeds. I don't know how the CNC Kitchen guy got them to work. Maybe if you already have a really good hot end, that can melt the filament quickly.
@@overseerbrian yah I've been seeing a few people who are saying oh the clones are better than the originals yada yada I'm sitting on a few .4s and a few .6s haven't really got a chance to toss them on one of my printers yet. Was going to .6. But yeah I've seen CNC say it's been working great in using a stock hot end on sv01 figure I'd give it a try but yeah was worried it will cause more issues than I want. I don't even know what I'd do to gain the benefits of using them in the first place to be honest
The top layer appearance can be improved drastically by having 1 skin layer at 0.32mm and having ironing on with 5-10% flow rate. The top layer for this profile is quite sparse.
Any profile for SuperSlicer?
When I load this profile it reverts settings on the printer to .4 nozzle. If I try to set to .6 the profiles go away?
Standard 0.2 profile + arachne + klipper is magic by itself and cost nothing if you have old laptop laying around
Very cool. I will download and install right away. Chep, would it be possible to focus on one of the next Filament Fridays on how to print PLA safely? I am a newbie with 3d printing, but I am concerned about the particles emitted when PLA is printed. There are several scientific articles online about this issue. As a hobbyist, I have the printer in my house. I love 3d printing, but I'd also love to print safely. I wonder whether you could suggest an enclosure, or filter, anything that might help us print happy and print safe.
Just add those things you mentioned and no need for a video on it 🤙🏽
Hi, Chep can you do an in-depth explanation of adaptive layers?
looking at using to print T-Nuts to move my Spool holder to the top rather than the side on my E3 Max. Will let you know how it goes.
Love CHEP very much! Could you build a Direct Drive PETG version profile?
THANK YOU!
Mix this to the arachnie engine and the .6 with this profile will be out of this world
Brilliant, and thanks
You sir are a gentleman, thank you for all the work you do for us. .6 nozzles rock, with Arachne there isn’t many prints that need a .4 nozzle anymore. Cheers mate 👍🇦🇺😊
Great video and really helpful parameters. Have a project with larger / less detail pieces moving to .6 nozzle on the Ender V3 SE is a time saver. Having an issue with one of the pieces - infill is globbing up. I can hear the hot end hitting it and I stop the print. I’ve tried different infill types and slowed the speed, still occurs. Any suggestions appreciated on which setting likely needs the most adjustment.
I'm using Anycubic printers - i3 Mega S and Kobra Max. Your cura profiles will not import. They give errors regarding quality type like "standard" and "low" not supported.
Like this idea of saving time on my prints and they still look good. I'll have to get some .6 nozzles.
Trouble shooting question. I have Ender 3 and Cura version 5.2.2, For some reason recently when printing petg after preheating it changes the set temp from 235 to 175c and it goes into/errors and need to shut it down. If I catch it and adjust the temperature fast enough it continues and starts the print. I have search everywhere and can't see the where 175 is coming from. ?
Ideas please.
works good on ender 3 pro. thumbs up. only problem is the z hop. doesn't seem to retract enough or fast enough maybe, leaves a bit of a blob on the surface. any suggestions? feel like when i change my cura retraction, it doesnt do much.
I am tryign to add this profile to Cura 5.3 and can't figure out how to do it. When I run your file it just changes the settings to the current setting I have in Cura instead of allowing me to create a new one - help!
That's badass. But I have a question: if we can adjust a 0.6 nozzle to do small good detail prints, can we adjust a 0.4 to do the same thing, but smaller? I have requirements for very fine, smooth, detailed prints.
I find with your fast settings and a CR10 + 0.6mm nozzle, I fight between poor adhesion or having the edges of the first later peel-up. It seems that if you "squish" the first layer extrusion a bit too much, it goes too flat/wide and "cups" on the outer edge, too little "squish" and it won't adhere to the caborundum/glass bed.
0.4 and default settings in Cura were never a problem...
Ideas?
How much you had to adjust the retraction?
Does the version of Cura I am using affect my abilty to import this profile?
Hi, Chuck. What is the best preset or settings for printing a dome (for a lamp)? I need it to be translucid and smooth as possible. I thought of printing it with no infill and no supports but my first attempts (with abs) ended up with layer (wall) splitting. Thanks!
Thank you.
I'm trying your profile with my ender 3 V2 now. I notice that 1 second after every retraction, it makes a small gap in the print. I'm wondering if I should try increasing or decreasing retraction distance?
I'm trying to get an 0.6 to speed up my process with ASA. I have achieved the strength and speed I'm looking for but there is one (4mm dia.) area that is is curved upwards at a mere 70 degrees and I get curling at the edge which leads to a clump of plastic along the edge but is fine elsewhere. I've tried many settings but what the 0.4 nozzle has no trouble with the 0.6 insists on curling in this area. Even at 0.15 Layer Height on the 0.6 nozzle I am getting curling. As I understand it the theory is that the ASA is shrinking and I've adjusted accordingly with all the popular settings. Preliminary results of my tests so far show I can take my 8 hour print down to 3, if only I can fix this problem. I've run the normal Gambit of Temperature, Speed, Layer Height ect. so I am wondering if wall overlap and skin penetration and whatever else anyone can think of that might help.
When I select petg with a 0.6 nozzle it disappears and comes back with a 0.4 nozzle. Why?
I also labels it as LOW QUALITY for some reason
I use only your profiles. Thank you! Bro can you make a tpu 0.6 nozzle? Best wishes
does printing with a 0.6 nozzle use more filament? than a 0.4?
It can. Depends on the slicing settings.
Yes, because the infill lines get wider and we cannot reduce the infill percentage since the infill density is needed for proper support.
Probably time I make the move from simplify 3d to cura. Been using it since 2015 and starting to feel like I’m running windows 95 😂
I'm using other slicers when necessary but S3D for "everyday" use is the easiest and fastest to gcode for me. I paid for the upgrade.
Tried the old .6 profile on a Neptune 3 Pro. Does not read profile due to elegoo_base. Tried transferring the settings using notepad but it just didn't print right. Will try this one. Was using petg
i get the same issue but with pla and i cant seem to get the profile to go into cura
Hi, will this profile work with the ender 3 v3 se ? Was considering changing nozzle to 0.6 as I am looking forward to printing bigger multi part print
Hi is there any reason you chose inside out wall instead of the outside in?
Thanks 😮
I love your videos when you move to orca slicer?
you guys have to remember this is with a .6 nozzle and sometimes if you need detail like this hinge you'll just have to settle for a .4
Will these profiles work well on a CR6-SE?
You are better off just making notes of the settings and then entering them yourself, I uploaded the FF profile that was meant for an ender 2 to my Ender 5 Plus printer setting and thought I could just change the bed size back but even though I changed the bed size Cura thought my bed was the size of an ender 2 and it ruined Cura, I had to uninstall and go deep into my file system to remove all the files that an uninstall does not remove, after a couple of hours of painful file searching I remembered I could have just rolled back the OS to before I installed the FF profile
It seems like you cannot change the nozzle size in Cura 5.3 whilst in Cura 5.2.2 it's as easy as using a drop-down menu. So where has that option gone in Cura 5.3.0. Is this the point that I will be changing to PrusaSlicer 2.6?
Extruder / Line Width? Not sure but in the QIDI version of Cura I use the nozzle diameter is called Line Width. Argh
could you check high after slicing?
layer high * total layers = ?
mine losing 0.5mm on high
You Z stepper is probably skipping steps. Check for resistance in the threaded rod movement.
@@FilamentFriday no chep, its on cura, for example 20mm high at 0.25 each layers, total layers 78. the right answer should 80 layers.
It's happening when not using a 0.2 layer high.
prints wont stick to bed so i use elmers glue snd works the trouble is i cant get it off the bed lol the bed glass creality cr 6 also some time i have string and sometimes the printer will break idk why
should dissolve with water
Awesome profile. How about a Superfast .6mm profile?
Like this: th-cam.com/video/dbJYQ4hYTMA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Chep! Would these settings work on my CR10 MAX?
yes, they work on every printer
You got a profile for .8mm nozzle?
I need to help me with my printer to geat 90° printing
dude your link does not work. you get an stl file for a print but the cura profile is not working
Its working for me, downloaded it rn and already printing
Works fine for me too.
Ctrl+J and then hit import
I think we are seeing different images. Because you say that the differences are very small in the Benchys at 0.4mm and 0.6mm. I see abysmal differences. Look at the ceiling. Look at the edges...
does this have to be used in cura or can it be used in any slicer
I think in a previous video he stated it can be used in any slicer.
@@tlc12070 Okay awsome thank you 👍
I'm using an older Cura version and can't load the profile, do you have an image with the settings? thanks
Too many to produce an image. I have older versions on my CHEPCLUB.com site for Patreon supporters. You could just install a later version of Cura as well.
@@FilamentFriday can’t install newer cura it needs newer os and that would break some old software I have thanks anyway
Will this work with petg?
Why is the infill line width set to .7mm? It seems to me that is a waste of filament. Unless you need an especially strong part, a smaller infill line width at whatever spacing is needed would use less filament.
You can reduce it if you want.
How does Ender 3 compare to Neptune 2? Would this work on my Neptune 2?
There essentially the same. I use my profiles on Neptune 2 all the time.
the profiles don't seem to like the Neptune 3 plus
How do I download the profile it just keeps downloading a model
The .3mf file contains the profile which you can add to your Cura for future use
Is this profilegod for PLA?
Yes. Created for PLA.
I have some 0.6 nozzles and was considering switching over my Ender 3 S1 pro. Only problem is, I print lots of stuff from Cinderwing and Flexi Factory and I don't want to take a hit on quality. Anyone having good quality with a 0.6 right now?
yes the slicers use arachne now my 0.6 gives awesome detail i printed a lilith head in abs its chefs kiss good and faster
@Paul Robertson so I bought a sonic pad for my 3s1 pro. Now I wonder if I should set it up first with the 0.4 and then move to the 0.6. Or, just use the sonic pad on my other printer.
Thank you for sharing !
Did you test nylon filament with ender3 ? I don't found video on your chanel... 😔
THANKS CHEP!
FJB!
I can't get it to load with petg. I keep getting an error. When I switch Is material to petg
They are designed for PLA.
hinges broke each time I printed....
how you been chep
Can this profile be used for anything other then an Ender 3?
I would be wary of trying this on anything that doesnt have a bowden setup like the ender 3, speeds might not match up.
@@RANhxcCORE ok thanks! I have a direct drive setup
I have an ender 3 DD, I think u might need to change just the retraction settings. If the flow is 100% and your E steps are calibrated it should convert well enough to try. might need some dialing in, but that's half the fun right?
@@tekno4blood Thanks! I have a Sovol SV01 and a SV06. I may have to give this a try. I don't use Cura (use PrusaSlicer) but I may give it a try. Thanks again!!
@@user-bt9ek2dv2y My advice, download Cura and load the profile he has, then go back and forth between the two and try to eliminate as many variables as you can. Build a new profile from his experimental one, save that, copy it into a new profile, and then tweek that one. If it's better than the last, erase the first modified version and keep going until its as perfect as you can make it. But that's just me.
0.6 isn't worth it in my opinion unless you are printing with thick layers and your printer can handle high volumetric flow. You can pretty much get the same thing with increased extrusion width on a 0.4.
Also 0.6 nozzles will increase the size of every printing artifact and make them more obvious and ugly and there are some things you just can't print with them.