A whole week of cursing, wasted filament, or wasted time by using a .4 mm nozzle. I tried your settings and a print came out buttery smooth with NO STRINGING in a hour instead of 3 1/2. Thank You.
Sir salute to you, thank you so much!! I have been struggling with PETG since three days, and I have tried every other recommendation on Prusa forums and on reddit, nothing worked for Prusa PETG's with 0.4 mm nozzle. But every setting you had in here, is golden, this is the way PETG should be printed.
Thank you. 3D newbie here. I've been printing mainly PLA since getting my Bambu printer with great results. Presently I am testing out some PETG as I may have an opportunity to set up a small print farm in which the specific product is better suited to PETG. Trying a few different brands and nozzle sizes. Your video has helped it that it gives me a road map to dial things in to get the proper balance of speed and quality as I need to run the numbers before pulling the trigger on a few more printers. Subscribed.
Love your videos and you convinced me to get a .6 nozzle. I feel the need for speed. I have an i3 MK3. I never liked PLA and am going to PETG. One of the first things I noticed was the brass nozzle and aluminum heat block getting gummed up with PETG that got burnt and I would get black inclusions. Started brushing the nozzle before each print. I got a nickel plated copper E3D nozzle and silicone heat block sock. The PETG does not stick well to the nickel plating. Heartily recommended so far for PETG. Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the kind words, and happy to hear you trying different nozzle sizes. It really makes a difference for prints where small details are less important. I need to try a plated nozzle. I had a silicon sleeve that I tried, but I ended up with a glob of PETG getting trapped under it which caused a massive mess hah!
Hey brother. I am currently trying to find tune PETG on my printer. I am using as 0.4 mm nozzle. I print very slowly on the first layer and then at 30 mm/s. My nozzle temperature is 250 my bed is 80 I am strictly printing, a transparent, filament type, my goal is to get a perfect transparent look. You have mentioned that 0.6 mm nozzle creates less stringing and provides a better finish. Can you please comment on how oozing and staining is on the 0.6 nozzle?
These settings have been awesome man on both videos....Im having some issues with an 45° overhang im trying to do that I can't figure out, but everything else is perfect thanks man
my printer came with a bunch of extra nozzles(ender 3 pro) installed the .6 and the difference is night and day, i don't really need print quality since I just print out bowling ball cups, cut my time down by 60% , 4 hours to less than 2, not much difference in print quality but had to slow down the print speed. was printing at 100mm with the .4 with no problems, but down to 60 now since it was creating gaps in the print. Thank you.
Outstanding videos..top notch. One thing I’d like to see is when you have focus on the computer screen shot that you could get closer so what you’re doing is easier to read. Not sure it’s possible but that would be super helpful. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for the feedback. I’ve started doing screen recordings in newer videos when I do things like that, so hopefully it helps. I’ll revisit and update this code as well :)
Is there anyway you could share your complete profile settings. From my research it looks like you need 250 degrees to get the maximum strength of PETG but I'm not having much success.
I always print a temperature tower for any new filament I use. That's going to give you the sweet spot for settings that maintain strength while still reducing problems like stringing. At 250c you are likely going to run into quite a bit of stringing from my experience.
One of the best videos I've seen in ages,, I actually learned something and would buy you a pint of beer but I keep knackering my phone's emailing the stuff 😂😂
Absolutely beautiful video thanks maybe I missing something but where is the profile every link I click I go to Amazon when I go to another video I cannot see any of your profiles thanks
Love your prints. Question: how do you get mesh on the side of your prints. I use Fusion 360 for designs. I'm noe making pots but would still like the mesh option.
I'll post my cad files. Basically you create two opposing sets of lines. This is the tutorial that inspired my design: th-cam.com/video/3PnKBSOulwo/w-d-xo.html
Great videos for PRTG, was really needing what you were putting down here! Have changed your nozzle to a different material, due to the brass attracting globs? If so, what did you change to? Again, great videos...
Hope you enjoy, let me know how it works out! I should note that for some models, these settings can be too fast, but they should be a decent place to start tuning.
Check out my other video on PETG as a starting place, and let me know if you run into any issues. I went through a couple dozen bad prints to arrive at those settings haha: th-cam.com/video/suhtzLzg42I/w-d-xo.html
Very little odor much like PLA. For functional parts, I don't think I would use anything other than PETG. More flexible and stronger than PLA, doesn't break down in water, food-safe, and no crazy odor like ABS. I'm overall happy I started using it. The one draw back is that it does take more time to tweak the settings to get it printing properly, and it sticks to EVERYTHING, so Z axis tuning is a must. My other video goes into more detail and shows the settings that work well for me printing PET: th-cam.com/video/suhtzLzg42I/w-d-xo.html
@@GeoDroidJohn I have used Amazon basics, and some no-name Chinese brand. Both seem to work well, but I don't have any other frame of reference. I want to try some Prusament PETG, just harder to get quickly compared to the Amazon stuff. If you just want something to experiment with the Amazon brand seems fine.
Love your advice by the way - would love if you could do a full video for .4 nozzles nontheless :) Since most of us use it. Edit: printing right now with most settings taken over. So far...holy crap! Beats the heck out of Pretty PETG ^^
That's awesome to hear! Fortunately converting between the two nozzles is pretty easy. You can just select your standard .4 nozzle profile, and leave the layer height at .32 or lower and everything else should remain the same :)
Also wanted to let you know, I have applied your settings for .6 nozzle but since I’m using the Prusament PETG I had to bump the temp up on the nozzle to 250 with bed at 90 for first layer then 245 and 85 for the rest of the layers. Everything now secures to the bed and all is now happy.
Oh, forgot one other question, looked like in your other video that you were using the textured build plate. Is that correct and have you experimented with using different types of build plates? I am just starting to try to get PETG to stick to the textured plate after mostly using the smooth PEI plate for my PLA printing and a few PETG prints. I, so far, have had zero success getting the PETG to stick to the textured plate. I will next reduce my z height to get it to stick better but beyond that, I am at a loss. Anyway, great videos, keep it up. Subscribed!
Which printer are you printing with? It also depends on the geometry of the model. Some I can get away with very high speeds like this, while others become a mess.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Ender 5 Pro. I'm basically making a solid (100% infill) round disc about 90mm diameter. It doesn't even get close to starting at these settings. I've adjusted temp up from the 235C I was using with the 0.4mm nozzle to 250C with the 0.6mm, and I've had to slow it right down to 16-20 otherwise the extruder skips and I get a mess. It'll print at this but I could only dream of the speeds you are using.
![The secret to 3D printing PETG [Adventurer 4]](/img/n.gif)
A whole week of cursing, wasted filament, or wasted time by using a .4 mm nozzle. I tried your settings and a print came out buttery smooth with NO STRINGING in a hour instead of 3 1/2.
Thank You.
This made my day, thank you for sharing, and i'm so glad it helped.
Sir salute to you, thank you so much!! I have been struggling with PETG since three days, and I have tried every other recommendation on Prusa forums and on reddit, nothing worked for Prusa PETG's with 0.4 mm nozzle. But every setting you had in here, is golden, this is the way PETG should be printed.
That’s awesome to hear, I’m so glad this helped. Please let me know if you run into any issues
This video has the right amount of thoroughness, so I’ve subscribed. So many other videos on PETG are far too cursory and therefore unhelpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for subscribing!
Are you saying PETG is better at 0.6 nozzle than 0.4 nozzle?
Thank you. 3D newbie here. I've been printing mainly PLA since getting my Bambu printer with great results. Presently I am testing out some PETG as I may have an opportunity to set up a small print farm in which the specific product is better suited to PETG. Trying a few different brands and nozzle sizes. Your video has helped it that it gives me a road map to dial things in to get the proper balance of speed and quality as I need to run the numbers before pulling the trigger on a few more printers. Subscribed.
Love your videos and you convinced me to get a .6 nozzle. I feel the need for speed.
I have an i3 MK3. I never liked PLA and am going to PETG. One of the first things I noticed was the brass nozzle and aluminum heat block getting gummed up with PETG that got burnt and I would get black inclusions. Started brushing the nozzle before each print.
I got a nickel plated copper E3D nozzle and silicone heat block sock. The PETG does not stick well to the nickel plating. Heartily recommended so far for PETG.
Keep up the great work!
Thank you for the kind words, and happy to hear you trying different nozzle sizes. It really makes a difference for prints where small details are less important. I need to try a plated nozzle. I had a silicon sleeve that I tried, but I ended up with a glob of PETG getting trapped under it which caused a massive mess hah!
Are there any other ways I can deal with nozzle built-up? I cant find a silicone sock that will cover the nozzle.
Great video thanks. Could you please post the text with the settings from the start of your gcode for the Prusa slicer changes.
Hey brother. I am currently trying to find tune PETG on my printer. I am using as 0.4 mm nozzle. I print very slowly on the first layer and then at 30 mm/s. My nozzle temperature is 250 my bed is 80 I am strictly printing, a transparent, filament type, my goal is to get a perfect transparent look. You have mentioned that 0.6 mm nozzle creates less stringing and provides a better finish. Can you please comment on how oozing and staining is on the 0.6 nozzle?
These settings have been awesome man on both videos....Im having some issues with an 45° overhang im trying to do that I can't figure out, but everything else is perfect thanks man
my printer came with a bunch of extra nozzles(ender 3 pro) installed the .6 and the difference is night and day, i don't really need print quality since I just print out bowling ball cups, cut my time down by 60% , 4 hours to less than 2, not much difference in print quality but had to slow down the print speed. was printing at 100mm with the .4 with no problems, but down to 60 now since it was creating gaps in the print. Thank you.
I just did my first petg print last night. I love a 0.6 mm nozzle for speed!
Outstanding videos..top notch. One thing I’d like to see is when you have focus on the computer screen shot that you could get closer so what you’re doing is easier to read. Not sure it’s possible but that would be super helpful. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for the feedback. I’ve started doing screen recordings in newer videos when I do things like that, so hopefully it helps. I’ll revisit and update this code as well :)
Is there anyway you could share your complete profile settings. From my research it looks like you need 250 degrees to get the maximum strength of PETG but I'm not having much success.
I always print a temperature tower for any new filament I use. That's going to give you the sweet spot for settings that maintain strength while still reducing problems like stringing. At 250c you are likely going to run into quite a bit of stringing from my experience.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DPis there a way to combat stringing at higher temperatures though 😅 I need 250 for my transparent filament to be transparent
This is a great video, well explained.
One of the best videos I've seen in ages,, I actually learned something and would buy you a pint of beer but I keep knackering my phone's emailing the stuff 😂😂
Absolutely beautiful video thanks maybe I missing something but where is the profile every link I click I go to Amazon when I go to another video I cannot see any of your profiles thanks
Great video👏👏 Do you by any chance have Cura Settings?
Love your prints. Question: how do you get mesh on the side of your prints. I use Fusion 360 for designs. I'm noe making pots but would still like the mesh option.
I'll post my cad files. Basically you create two opposing sets of lines. This is the tutorial that inspired my design: th-cam.com/video/3PnKBSOulwo/w-d-xo.html
you can do rite down to 0.16 layer hieght with a 0.4 nozzle tho !
Still learning and using Creality Cr6se And so far Petg is my absolute nightmare
Going to try some of your settings and report back 👍
Are your prints still water tight on the bases after these changes? Im assuming that they need to hold water
They are! Almost a year later and none of them are leaking. My PLA versions only lasted a few weeks, but the PETG has shown no signs of leaking.
Thank you for the reply. My .2 mm layer aren't water tight, but my .1 mm are (prusa mini & petg). Time to try some more changes.
How does this affect ultimate achievable dimensional tolerances vs default?
If dimensional accuracy is your goal, I would go for default speeds and perhaps even slower than default
do you happen to have a s3d profile translation?
Great videos for PRTG, was really needing what you were putting down here! Have changed your nozzle to a different material, due to the brass attracting globs? If so, what did you change to?
Again, great videos...
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!!
Great video I’ll give it a go😄👌🏼
Hope you enjoy, let me know how it works out! I should note that for some models, these settings can be too fast, but they should be a decent place to start tuning.
Where did you get those.. jaws?
Great video. I just started playing with petg today. I may have to try some of you settings. (Subscribed).
Check out my other video on PETG as a starting place, and let me know if you run into any issues. I went through a couple dozen bad prints to arrive at those settings haha: th-cam.com/video/suhtzLzg42I/w-d-xo.html
Clean video! I really want to start dabbling with PETG. How is the odor compared to PLA?
Very little odor much like PLA. For functional parts, I don't think I would use anything other than PETG. More flexible and stronger than PLA, doesn't break down in water, food-safe, and no crazy odor like ABS. I'm overall happy I started using it. The one draw back is that it does take more time to tweak the settings to get it printing properly, and it sticks to EVERYTHING, so Z axis tuning is a must. My other video goes into more detail and shows the settings that work well for me printing PET: th-cam.com/video/suhtzLzg42I/w-d-xo.html
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Any recommendations on brands to buy PETG?
@@GeoDroidJohn I have used Amazon basics, and some no-name Chinese brand. Both seem to work well, but I don't have any other frame of reference. I want to try some Prusament PETG, just harder to get quickly compared to the Amazon stuff. If you just want something to experiment with the Amazon brand seems fine.
how is your dimensional accuracy though?
Love your advice by the way - would love if you could do a full video for .4 nozzles nontheless :)
Since most of us use it.
Edit: printing right now with most settings taken over. So far...holy crap! Beats the heck out of Pretty PETG ^^
That's awesome to hear! Fortunately converting between the two nozzles is pretty easy. You can just select your standard .4 nozzle profile, and leave the layer height at .32 or lower and everything else should remain the same :)
AWESOME video, Thanks for sharing!
Curious, where's your orchid pot's STL?
Coming soon, I promise!
I too would like to purchase your orchid pot STL’s
I think they are super cool!
Also wanted to let you know, I have applied your settings for .6 nozzle but since I’m using the Prusament PETG I had to bump the temp up on the nozzle to 250 with bed at 90 for first layer then 245 and 85 for the rest of the layers. Everything now secures to the bed and all is now happy.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Did you post the STL’s some place? How does one buy it from you?
Oh, forgot one other question, looked like in your other video that you were using the textured build plate. Is that correct and have you experimented with using different types of build plates? I am just starting to try to get PETG to stick to the textured plate after mostly using the smooth PEI plate for my PLA printing and a few PETG prints. I, so far, have had zero success getting the PETG to stick to the textured plate. I will next reduce my z height to get it to stick better but beyond that, I am at a loss. Anyway, great videos, keep it up. Subscribed!
Man sorry I wasn't a sub earlier great videos.
interesting .6, time for a upgrade!
good
These settings were not even close for me. Way too fast.
Which printer are you printing with? It also depends on the geometry of the model. Some I can get away with very high speeds like this, while others become a mess.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP Ender 5 Pro. I'm basically making a solid (100% infill) round disc about 90mm diameter. It doesn't even get close to starting at these settings. I've adjusted temp up from the 235C I was using with the 0.4mm nozzle to 250C with the 0.6mm, and I've had to slow it right down to 16-20 otherwise the extruder skips and I get a mess. It'll print at this but I could only dream of the speeds you are using.
@@GeeWhizRS Got it, I haven't tried these speeds on an ender, only on the purse. It's valuable feedback for others that have an ender as well.
@@ALLYOURTECH3DP If I can print at that speed on a prusa I would throw this ender under a bus and get one. :)