A lot of great tips brother👍 I just bought a Harbor Freight 8 ton bottle jack for my F250 and wanted to know where the lifting points are but got much more. Thanks 😎
Boom! Lol. Don't use grease to coat the hub & rim mating surface. You need to use a anti seize paste formulated for aluminum. A thin film on the rims center bore is sufficient. Do NOT use Grease! Heat from the rotor will sling the grease outwards when it gets hot and also it can cause false tourqe values on your lug nuts. ALWAYS CHECK THE TOURQE ON THE LUG NUTS AFTER 50 MILES ON ALUMINUM ALLOY RIMS.
Great video, only thing id suggest is using graphite paste or anti seize on the entire face of rim contacting surface. The rim gets so hot grease can literally burn off lol
Smart man, you put in the work and was smart enough to make two videos out of it. I'm going to rotate my tires this weekend, your timing on this video was great :)
U didnt really show where u put that grease so the tire get stuck from coming off. Good video. I like how y carefully cover yourself with your words safely. Good job.
Torque those lugs to factory specs! I've had tires go flat on the freeway, almost impossible to break the lugs free with the factory jack and wrench. Especially after a local tire dealer rotated them. You might not have the impact wrench and big jack with you all the time. Also the local "Belle" tightened my lugs to the point of splitting them, found out the hard way. Follow the owners manual!!!
@6:44 you are pointing to a location where the lugs are and calling it the rotor... this is the hub, not the rotor. You CAN and SHOULD lubricate this whole area around the lugs and remove the rust and lube with anti-sieze. The rotor is the big shiny round portion behind the hub which you do not lubricate.
@@DS-TRUCKSYou are correct. Your rotor slides onto/over the wheel hub mounting bolts. Your hub is behind the rotor. The Ford service manual does recommend applying a nominal amount of anti-seize compound on the contact area between the wheel and the rotor face (typically around each of the hub bolts).
I too was trained to lift by the diff. My father has worked on vehicles for half a century, he lifts by the diff. Yes, you can wreck the diff plate if you don’t watch what you’re doing, but I believe the Ford owners manual is just covering themselves from liability. All these commentators freaking out have probably never worked on vehicles, or always had a lift.
This might sound like a really stupid question but I’m somewhat new to cars and I’m trying to fix up a 1992 Ford F250. Obviously since it’s an older model, do I have to lift up the truck differently or can I use the same method that used in this video. I would’ve used my owners manual, but of course since it’s an abandoned car, there is no owners manual 🙄 AND of course everyone post something on TH-cam but the truck information that I need no one seems to be working on a Ford F250 from 92 it’s always an F150 93.
He was just saying that to cover his butt because there's a lot of idiots out there that don't take their time and rammy slammy. I get so tired of keyboard warriors .
I dont understand how lifting the front of these trucks is such a gd mystery. I have a 2000 f350 and have yet to find a definitive way to lift the front of this thing with a shop floor jack.
@@DS-TRUCKS Some say lifting by the diff is wrong(could damage the cover or whatnot) but really where else are you going to lift it? Then theres the jack stand locations. Just an unedited video of safely lifting a 1999+ SD 4wd front axle with a floor jack and placing it on jack stands would be awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
With these superduty units, there’s no real jacking point for the rear. Maybe place a piece of 2x6 under the one side’s 4 leaf spring bolts and then jack ip with a decent sized floor jack?
Thanks for watching! Share the video!
Seriously thought you were going to show us where you place the jack stands, that's what I came for.
I showed where I placed them. Refer to your owners manual
Thanks for saving me time Konig
Put it in 4×4 will keep it from rolling
A lot of great tips brother👍 I just bought a Harbor Freight 8 ton bottle jack for my F250 and wanted to know where the lifting points are but got much more. Thanks 😎
Boom! Lol. Don't use grease to coat the hub & rim mating surface. You need to use a anti seize paste formulated for aluminum. A thin film on the rims center bore is sufficient. Do NOT use Grease! Heat from the rotor will sling the grease outwards when it gets hot and also it can cause false tourqe values on your lug nuts. ALWAYS CHECK THE TOURQE ON THE LUG NUTS AFTER 50 MILES ON ALUMINUM ALLOY RIMS.
Great video, only thing id suggest is using graphite paste or anti seize on the entire face of rim contacting surface. The rim gets so hot grease can literally burn off lol
To try lifting truck with jack under differential can crack differential case from the weight against it so not a good idea
Smart man, you put in the work and was smart enough to make two videos out of it. I'm going to rotate my tires this weekend, your timing on this video was great :)
You put in some hard work for the mpg test video. 💪
U didnt really show where u put that grease so the tire get stuck from coming off. Good video. I like how y carefully cover yourself with your words safely. Good job.
The grease on the hub is very controversial. Technically you're not supposed to put any grease on the hub.
Torque those lugs to factory specs! I've had tires go flat on the freeway, almost impossible to break the lugs free with the factory jack and wrench. Especially after a local tire dealer rotated them. You might not have the impact wrench and big jack with you all the time. Also the local "Belle" tightened my lugs to the point of splitting them, found out the hard way. Follow the owners manual!!!
Yes Sir.
Where did you place the jackstands?
Great video man but instead of putting grease, just hit it with a wire wheel or brush whenever you have them off
The still reacts with the aluminum
@6:44 you are pointing to a location where the lugs are and calling it the rotor... this is the hub, not the rotor. You CAN and SHOULD lubricate this whole area around the lugs and remove the rust and lube with anti-sieze. The rotor is the big shiny round portion behind the hub which you do not lubricate.
The rotors on top of the hub correct?
@@DS-TRUCKSYou are correct. Your rotor slides onto/over the wheel hub mounting bolts. Your hub is behind the rotor. The Ford service manual does recommend applying a nominal amount of anti-seize compound on the contact area between the wheel and the rotor face (typically around each of the hub bolts).
Better look up what rear rotors look like for this vehicle…
OTC make a great hub cap remover tool for this truck and dual wheels OTC 5758. I have one and like it a lot.
I too was trained to lift by the diff. My father has worked on vehicles for half a century, he lifts by the diff.
Yes, you can wreck the diff plate if you don’t watch what you’re doing, but I believe the Ford owners manual is just covering themselves from liability.
All these commentators freaking out have probably never worked on vehicles, or always had a lift.
So you made it tutorial video on what not to do thanks this was really helpful
your ok chocking it with those 2 stones?? someone in the comments said put it in 4x4 before you lift, thats good to know
This might sound like a really stupid question but I’m somewhat new to cars and I’m trying to fix up a 1992 Ford F250. Obviously since it’s an older model, do I have to lift up the truck differently or can I use the same method that used in this video. I would’ve used my owners manual, but of course since it’s an abandoned car, there is no owners manual 🙄 AND of course everyone post something on TH-cam but the truck information that I need no one seems to be working on a Ford F250 from 92 it’s always an F150 93.
Great job bro
Thanks
Did you find an appreciable difference in fuel economy using those all-terrain tires?
Burns a little more fuel with the aggressive tires.
Say you want to work on your rear suspension and want the axle slack, where do you lift from then? I've also always just used the rear differential.
Frame
Thank you.
Very very nice.
Dude, I heard you say "DON'T DO THIS" like 4 times. I'll make sure to do nothing I saw in this video.
Follow your owners manual!
He was just saying that to cover his butt because there's a lot of idiots out there that don't take their time and rammy slammy. I get so tired of keyboard warriors .
I am in the middle of STRUGGLING to get my wheel off of my 2017 f150. Seized as f:&(@
I read that on The diff it can cause damage.
Yes. Most definitely follow the owner's manual. If you catch the cover it can bend it
I dont understand how lifting the front of these trucks is such a gd mystery. I have a 2000 f350 and have yet to find a definitive way to lift the front of this thing with a shop floor jack.
@@ryani5103 do you need to see more on how to lift the front end?
@@DS-TRUCKS Some say lifting by the diff is wrong(could damage the cover or whatnot) but really where else are you going to lift it? Then theres the jack stand locations. Just an unedited video of safely lifting a 1999+ SD 4wd front axle with a floor jack and placing it on jack stands would be awesome. Thanks for the quick reply!
@@ryani5103 I'll see what I can do. You should be able to use the radius arms tho
@@DS-TRUCKS I dont see radius arms, I think those might be for the 2wd trucks. I just have a sway bar and leaf springs.
@@ryani5103 that's right. You don't have then because you have leaf springs
You talk too much
NEVER LIFT BY DIFFERENTIAL
Lol your obviously not a mechanic. It’s a solid axle
With these superduty units, there’s no real jacking point for the rear. Maybe place a piece of 2x6 under the one side’s 4 leaf spring bolts and then jack ip with a decent sized floor jack?