Traxxas UDR custom build test and results
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Took out my UDR for the first time since it’s full rebuild. Very happy with the performance of the truck. I did a horrible job getting any video the day I went out to run it. That’s gonna get better real soon.
Next time do the drywall tape and shoe goo reinforcement. It will literally make your body's last 10 times as long. It's kind of a pain in the butt to do but if you use hot glue to tack the drywall tape down, use thinner strips of drywall tape where necessary and heat up the shoe goo in a glass of hot water for a few minutes before you start spreading it it goes down pretty easy. It's totally worth The time and effort.
That was... a beautiful body! What a beast of a machine also I appreciate a good video without blaring music playing it's nice to actually hear the unit run.
Definitely my next RC
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. Definitely love this truck!
Love the UDR my son and I each have one. I do like the Pro Line body. Like button selected.
I’m doing a similar thing, I was given a UDR that was stripped and now I’m rebuilding it! Most of the bits are there but some need replacing. Can’t wait till it’s complete
Hey buddy. Your UDR looks epic. I have the same body in green, black, & white. I had to subscribe for more action
That Proline body looks really delicate. Like the lexan looks much thinner than normal.
I see that. And agree
Ive had my UDR for a very long time. Nearly since release and i still have the original body on it. Mostly everything under the body that could be modified or upgraded has been. It is thrashed at this point and could use a complete drivetrain rebuild, but the number of parts i would need to replace, even the aftermarket aluminum bits, would be better off buying a new one and start fresh. I still use it, but you can tell it isnt the UDR it once was. Ive burned through at least 4 complete (all 6) sets of tires since new and have seriously considered the Hyrax, but the way i drive it would shred them pretty quickly.
If available look into unbreakable bodies. Have one on my all metal mojave, unreal❤
That old school ford body is sic, good shelf queen body, much better looking than the stock body though 👍🖖
Unfortunately it met with its demise pretty quick as I don’t own any shelf queens and it’s full send or nothing. Gonna do another one though cause I really liked the look.
Nice looking body at first, i used proline body on my slash and i wrapped inside the body with alumunium foil thermal insulation and its last longer
Like and suubed 👍
E 6000 ! On that body !
Pure 🔥
Thank you!
what kind of rims are those, they look very good on your truck.
Cold day when the body exploded?
Nice rig mate. What’s the cool inner plates brand ? And the wheels ? Are the wheels much more heavier than stock? Sorry for all the questions. I’m in the midst of doing mine up too. I’d almost run it with no body with those plates on . I tried to bulletproof mine before even running it. Got a few gpm bits . Also I’ve found a better way than the drywall tape and shoe goo to strengthen the body’s. it’s from most car parts stores called bed ( truck) lining spray in a can . It’s super thick but rubbery lining . You can get 4 to 5 layers on and so far my bodies have lasted three times as long. Best of luck in your rc adventures. Cheers👍🏼😎
The plates are from Integy and the wheels are from RC4WD. They are heavier then the stock as they are all metal and true beadlocks. The quality of the wheels is well worth it.
@@rcspeedracer thanks for the info. The wheels are just what I’m chasing, I have treal true bead locks on my digger . And love them , no more glue. Appreciate it 👍🏼
I gorilla tape my body’s seems to take them last a lot longer and tear less
mine keeps eating through pinion gears, do you have the same problem, or have any suggestions on how to fix it? also cool build
I am not having that problem at all. Be sure the motor is secured properly to the mount itself and there is no play anywhere.
@@rcspeedracer thanks, ill check that since i have to replace the pinion anyways
There should be a little pin that goes into the chassis and mates up to the corrosponding hole in the motor mount that sounds as if you are missing. If you are still cbewing up pinions, i highly recommend that the pin is still there and that the pin is in the correct hole.
Is your udr paint yamiya? ps34? ps60? :)
It is Tamiya paint. I believe it was the ps34. Then the lame flake which I forget the number of that one.
thank you bro ~!
UDR isn’t a basher.
The UDR is whatever you want it to be. Could be a great race truck if anyone raced them. In my case I use it as a basher and love it for that. It’s great at whatever you want to do.
A 2nd color would of went a long way in the look
Maybe but that wasn’t the look I was going for.
- this is why I am "strictly" into RC SCALE CRAWLERS !!!! 🤨...🤔......Hmm
That seems awfully brittle for lexan. It shouldn't have broken up like that from only a hit or two. Lexan typically will bend and crease long before it will crack. I'd ask for a refund. That said, it does look cool all mangled like that!
@@guest6423 with the style of that body it just does not have the proper support in the front for the way I was beating on it. I would never ask for a refund on something that I was being extremely rough on. Was all my fault.
No thanks. I'll baby mine. Way too expensive for this...
Pro line bodies suck !!
I disagree. I usually like them but this one just didn’t hold up. It happens. That being said I’m just getting a stock clear one to paint up and try again.
@@rcspeedracer I don’t I live in Canada and every single proline body I’ve ever owned has broken or cracked after 1-3 runs .