The moral of the story... Shop managers, hire those just out of high school to do this job. Why? Because when I was in high school auto mechanics i did this a bunch of times and consider it a task along the level of changing plugs. Now move the clock forward 60 years. I have to change my U Joints in my truck. So ran across this video and thought a refresher was in order. It should be a no-brainer ($10 parts and free labor) but after watching this video, I'm thinking, "You know, I'll probably take this to a shop since the labor will probably cost $150. LOL!" Nope, probably not because I have more money now, just lazier. And how much did U-Joints cost back in those days before China... I think about $6 ea. Great video! Thanks!
“Grinders and paint make me the welder I ain’t” Lol, love it, I have 2 girls too and 2 cats that NEED to know what I’m doing every second. I complain but wouldn’t trade it for the world. Thanks for the tips.
Not gonna lie, i hate when mechanics say "Im a professional mechanic" because often times they are complete idiots. Ive met some dumb "ASE Master mechanics" in my day
Love your style,, I have been a mechanic for about 50 years and back when I didn't have a press to push the cups out, I had to beat the cups out with a hammer. But other than that,, I replace the joint exactly like u do,, the grease in the cups have saved me many times. Harry lewis
Wow, I think this is the most helpful video I've found for just walking through the process of doing U-Joints. I've done plenty of these over the years, but I can see that some of your little tips are just pure gold! I've never heard of using the ATF before, but I'll certainly be picking up a quart of that as I work over my CJ-5. I'm just at the point where I'm putting axles shaft u-joints in, so this video is definitely getting a bookmark! Thanks!
Try 50 % Acetone & 50 % (synthetic) ATF to loosen any bolt, they contain the smallest Moly of penetrating fluid. Mix a table spoon together let it sit for 5 min, Acetone loosen the rust, Synthetic ATF lubercate the parts for disassembly..
I had an old mechanic tell me to watch for the rustty red color of a brick! He taught me that when you have a piece of metal grinding together that has no lubrication it pulverize the iron and turns it back into Orr! Which is what it started out as in the beginning! Orr is the color of a clay red brick when it is extracted from old mother earth. I have wrenched on cars for thirty plus years and have seen and looked for this color to tell me I have pieces that are dry of lubrication and needs attention 😉
wonderful show i have replaced many of these in cars and tks. some were easy some were horrible!!! any tips are helpful never ever to old to learn !!! safety safety first easy to loose eye thank you 74 years old but i love mechanic work !!!
Please put some more videos showing you working on the forklift - it would be great to see your troubleshooting skills on a machine which has a few issues in the real world and how you fixed them as most people always just stick to cars or motorbikes
Just put in U joints on a friends Ram 1500. Luckily I have access to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and used the press and dies. Once I finished, the u joint was really tight and didn't pivot as smooth as I liked. A friend of mine also working in the shop that day told me of a "little trick" about tapping on the caps just a bit to set the needle bearings. It worked and the joint would pivot nice and smoothly. Ever heard of this? Just like everyone else...put it out there, we'll watch!
Over the years of working in the industries, trucking and personal four wheeling I've learned that you should always stay with the same grease or if you switch then remove all the old grease. Different greases will attack each other and turn to a worthless light oil. Also, when installing u-joints, make sure you put the grease zerk so it is under compression when traveling forward. A hole in the u-joint where the zerk goes is a weak area. Enjoy your videos and humor. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for one of the best, informative, efficient, videos I've seen. I've never before learned so much in so short of time. You addressed EVERY STEP AND PROBLEMS ran accross. Thanks for all the tips. 1st joint - 5 hrs Watched video. 2nd joint - just over an hour including a shit and a snack!! 2000 ford f250 super duty crew 4 x 4 7.3 Thanks again.
Great video! I always remove my grease zerks before installation. It prevents accidentally breaking them off, plus it gives excess grease a place to go during installation.
I did this with the front shaft on my 90 Suburban. I took the ring off the yoke and removed the yoke completely from the shaft to get it all cleaned out inside. Thanks for the videos.
How nice would a flight through that country be!!! Good instruction. Be like Brian, due diligence! Clean everything well! It will pay for itself on reassembly, don’t pound on those caps like they owe you money.
Raised on a farm and we had 100 and some cows............ Always fixing something, never seen your "slick" tool you got to push them joints out. Thank you Brian. Have to look into getting one of them. Take care.
Excellent tips brother. Thanks for putting this video together. I'm done with hammering these in and out, borrowed a buddy's 6 ton HF press and it DOES make it so much easier.
Thanks Brian. Filling the caps with new grease is fine , but also chase out the shipping grease from within the joint and zerk fitting ,it looks like earwax. That stuff is really not grease , but some sort of goop the manufacturer puts in there to keep corrosion in check during packaging , shipping and storage.
Yessir! Just found that out. Installed a sealed u-joint and was super stiff, so had to pop it out and inspect, found out that the manufacturers grease isn't grease at all. I pushed out the crap, removed and cleaned the needles and caps and packed it with wheel bearing grease. Works perfectly now. I was wondering why their stuff was so terrible... makes sense now.
My Man! You are a true professional. Could I borrow your brain for about 2 years? I've got my eye on a diesel 3500 pick up that I would like too restore and I feel you've got a treasure trove of tips and tricks on doings things that most pros know, but wont tell a sole. Thanks for this vid and I look forward to more of your info vids.
good video. old news for old hands like like allot of us, but the next best thing to a hard days work is watching someone else do it!!! You would be surprised how many young guys can't change a u-joint to save their lives. I like to take a small dremel wire wheel and clean the yoke and snap ring bores really well. do it right and you can almost install the caps by hand. start pouring the meat to the caps with a hammer and you'll end up knocking the needles out. 5 minutes of prep work will save you 30 minutes of curse words.
Not really accurate. There needs to be an interference fit. If the cups install too easily than the fit is incorrect. A hammer is fine if you know how to keep the needles from falling out. As simple as some extra grease...
I don't think he meant the caps just alling into the yoke. What I do after everything is apart is take a brake hone and run it in the yoke. With that I can lightly tap the caps in with a light ballpeen hammer.
Brian, I have always completely set up one side cap fully into the yoke so that when I tried to install the second cap, the span of the caps will be close enough together so that the u-joint will slide onto both sides at a time, negating any room for the needle bearings to slip out.
Great tips Brian. I like the plug you made. (No one will ever know). It's amazing how much footage it takes to get a video posted. If you have footage of the canyon trip I'm one vote for "post it". :)
Thanks for the video, I was going to tackle it myself but will have to take it to a shop, did not know how involved it could be with the welding and all.
Your caption about the sensitivity of the human fingertip reminds me of what I read about a toyota factory master machinist---he would use his hands to feel and determine the quality of the machining of crankshafts.
Thanks, nice video. Haven't changed any universal joints in like 40 years. Last time was on a 70 ish Ford Mustang and it was easy as pie like the few before. Caps pressed out and in with just a few taps of my hammer. Working on my Kubota belly mower and these are so tight I was thinking I was going to mess up the yoke so I stopped, stepped back and slept on it, usually my best course of action. Anyway, picked up a few tips and will get'er done today.
You're killing it Bud! Great work, quality sense of humor, excellent video! I hope you're rewarded with big time success on here. Thank you for putting in the effort!
Great video!! I found you last night, I had a mechanic change mines last night and my axle fell of my Silverado while I was driving so you know why that could have happened?
I've been replacing u-joints for years and I have to say I've approached them in many ways. In my youth it was a hammer and socket but now I use my homemade hydraulic press or my Astro ball joint tool I found on Amazon. I wish I could post photos here but I think you get my meaning... Thanks for sharing Brian and great work!
Good informative video, bud. I like and agree with using atf. I've been using dielectric, which works fine for high heat lubricant and rust prevention, but atf is way cheaper! Thanks
Hi Brian I recall you making a video about a moonroof that wasn't working on a 9.3 Saab.. When you demoed what it did when you activated the key and the open switch, there was a sound like click click click click click click??? On my 2006 9.3 Saab I'm getting that same clicking sound every time I turn on and off my ignition Key fob...What the Heck is that sound???
Newer trucks and cars have plastic holding the factory installed U-Joints instead of G clips. When you replace them, you need to heat them up with propane torch and the plastic will squirt out and then use G clips on the new ones. I've been working on cars since mid-sixties and first time I did this job I was a bit perplexed but after seeing for myself I realized no big deal. Brian; it my help others to show them this particular twist so they can not be wondering what's going to happen. I never believed the plastic would just squirt out like that until I saw it happen.
Good video. Those ten buck U joints have ruined many a vacation and even caused drive shafts to drop out and pole vault vehicles into the air. It's great to be able to replace them yourself, and save lots of $$. Also so many original equipment joints do not have grease fittings, which ensures a failure.
This was an awesome video. Nice to see someone take the pains to do the job right. Very well narrated as well. Good to see old fashioned pride in the work. I wouldn’t have admitted to the boog placement though. “Jus sayin.” 😂 Thanks for the great video. 👍👍👍
Hey bro, super helpful and loved “THE MACHINE” part haha. Btw, I may have blow the end of my end cap out and the rest is still in the yoke. Any ideas with an average Joe’s tools or recommend taking it to a pro shop?
Nice vid brian , like the rubber plug substitute with washers !! If ya could only explain to the audience why it’s VERY NECESSARY to tap the caps back against the snap rings so ya make room for grease to flow thru the cavity to the brgs !! Most vids I watched don’t know about or don’t know why their loosing up the trunnion/caps !! Btw my luck on hammering the caps in wouldn’t be as good as yours my needle brgs would’ve dislodged!! Question, on ya road trip to MV did ya run into the Griswalds ....lol 😎
Great video. I just had the shop press in a u-joint . One axis seems to move freely without any play. The other axis moves but seems a little stiff. Should I tap on the yoke like you do at 13:18 until it moves freely like the other axis? Any feedback would be appreciated.
on a jeep liberty 2003, Can I grease the spline that goes into the transfer case? The spline is doing a clunking sound every time I stop or accelerate. I think the spline needs grease or the u-joints are bad, but either way, is it ok to put grease on the spline? I am not a mechanic but I would like to get rid of the clunking sound.
Thanks mate. This was a very well detailed teaching on how to change out a u-joint. I'd not done one and this (I know) has already made the up-coming job SO much easier and faster. Thanks again :)
Brian , two things , a freeze out plug would have been real nice , also what I always do is I make a hone from a old antenna shaft , use the fattest portion cut it to 10 / 12 inches long , slice one end with the hacksaw down about 1in to 1 1/2 in , take roughly 10 / 12 inches of emery cloth , slide it into the slice that you cut , put the other end into a drill motor , variable speed works the best wrap the emery paper around in the direction that the drill will spin it , keeping it wound up ,insert it in the cup bore add some oil on the emery paper , spin it with the drill until the bore is nice an clean , works very well for me Frank T
Using the vice and socket, cross in one hole fit cap then try forcing the first cap all the way with the cross in that cap till the cross touches the other side of the vice(this means putting the first cap in further than it should be)put in the clip for that cap. next put the second cap on and with a socket send the whole cross and caps back till the first cap comes tight to the clip. Doing it that way makes it imposible for a needles to come out or tip as the cross holds it in place at all times. Resorting to a hammer especially for first cup may shed a needle even with grease in the hole, don't ask how i know.
I never change my u joints like this anymore , it's much quicker to zip cut them from the inside and tap them through with a small hammer , the initial shock loosens them up and your not fighting or dragging rust through the hole . Another reason is trying to push through extremely seized u joints you can tweak or deform the yoke and you will not get the retaining clip back in if their internal type with out a spreader tool . I tap them back in with a small ballpein hammer much quicker than pressing them in . I've been doing this for years .
Lost count of how many times i changed a u-joint out in the bush. Always carried a couple spares. Drop the driveshaft, lay it on the tailgate, and change the u-joint. Considered, one time, upgrading to ox-joints. But decided against it, as it's best to have an easy-to-fix weak point.
Great video on U-joints. I wondered how those are done. I would like to see your tire video, I have done the ether trick with some success, it doesn't always work.
I used your method of using the larger socket but I don’t have a vice so I put the larger socket under the yoke and a smaller one on the top side and they all came right out
Just fyi though if you are a diyer and start messing around with your driveshaft you can cause vibration. So this job is doable and not that hard, just know though that you can cause problems, I know this because I did. I think in my instance my first mistake was not getting greaseable u joints I think the greaseable ones are more forgiving because you can put grease in there to help free them up. Also the u joints I got felt pretty tight, so I am gonna try and get some smoother greaseable ones. Also you want the u joint to feel loose and it should turn freely and smoothly in the drive shaft, that is pretty important you don't want tightness. Also it's CRITICAL that you mark everything so that it all goes back the same way it went in those drive shafts are BALANCED and if you start messing with that balance you can get vibrations.
Interesting how you use a giant clamp and impact.. lots of videos ive seen for a dana 44 axle, simply use a Big hammer and smack the ends at a angle and the caps pop out in a seconds
This is the BEST VIDEO I've seen on changing u-joints, I THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR. Also the plug you made was FINE, HELL IF IT WORKS YOU'VE FIXED THE PROBLEM, WHO'S GOING TO KNOW, EXCEPT THE SLIP JOINT & YOU ?
My first u joint job last year. Me and my brother rented that tool but I don’t have a impact and used a cross bar and it took us 3 evenings to get it out. It hindsight I should have bought that cordless impact.
Did many u joints over the years and had a few that would not move especially on bigger trucks. Easiest way I found to get them out is with the fire wrench burn the cross bar off then the caps just about fall out.
@@JW...-oj5iw a friendly fist. To give God a "fist bump" from the soul. That was pre-covid, now it's all elbows. You definitely don't want to be the person who gives God covid!
This guy knows how to teach and how to make videos that do that. He's very personable and the lesson is thorough without being boring.
The best thing about this video is that everything is closeup and in detail. That makes all the difference.
The worst thing about this video is he's over explaining him self.
The moral of the story... Shop managers, hire those just out of high school to do this job. Why? Because when I was in high school auto mechanics i did this a bunch of times and consider it a task along the level of changing plugs. Now move the clock forward 60 years. I have to change my U Joints in my truck. So ran across this video and thought a refresher was in order. It should be a no-brainer ($10 parts and free labor) but after watching this video, I'm thinking, "You know, I'll probably take this to a shop since the labor will probably cost $150. LOL!" Nope, probably not because I have more money now, just lazier. And how much did U-Joints cost back in those days before China... I think about $6 ea. Great video! Thanks!
Welcome Sam!
Brian you saved my BACON. Instructions were perfect. Thanks A MILLION.
“Grinders and paint make me the welder I ain’t”
Lol, love it, I have 2 girls too and 2 cats that NEED to know what I’m doing every second.
I complain but wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Thanks for the tips.
From an old ASE master, I like your video, also like your personality and laid back manner, thanks.
Not gonna lie, i hate when mechanics say "Im a professional mechanic" because often times they are complete idiots. Ive met some dumb "ASE Master mechanics" in my day
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 - Well said. In my dictionary, ASE stands for Ask Someone Else 😀
Love your style,, I have been a mechanic for about 50 years and back when I didn't have a press to push the cups out, I had to beat the cups out with a hammer. But other than that,, I replace the joint exactly like u do,, the grease in the cups have saved me many times. Harry lewis
Thanks Harry!
Ppppoo
I love these hammerheads that give advice.. . They need to create their own video since they are so wise. Thank you for the great videos.
Wow, I think this is the most helpful video I've found for just walking through the process of doing U-Joints. I've done plenty of these over the years, but I can see that some of your little tips are just pure gold! I've never heard of using the ATF before, but I'll certainly be picking up a quart of that as I work over my CJ-5. I'm just at the point where I'm putting axles shaft u-joints in, so this video is definitely getting a bookmark! Thanks!
Try 50 % Acetone & 50 % (synthetic) ATF to loosen any bolt, they contain the smallest Moly of penetrating fluid. Mix a table spoon together let it sit for 5 min, Acetone loosen the rust, Synthetic ATF lubercate the parts for disassembly..
I had an old mechanic tell me to watch for the rustty red color of a brick! He taught me that when you have a piece of metal grinding together that has no lubrication it pulverize the iron and turns it back into Orr! Which is what it started out as in the beginning! Orr is the color of a clay red brick when it is extracted from old mother earth. I have wrenched on cars for thirty plus years and have seen and looked for this color to tell me I have pieces that are dry of lubrication and needs attention 😉
wonderful show i have replaced many of these in cars and tks. some were easy some were horrible!!! any tips are helpful never ever to old to learn !!! safety safety first easy to loose eye thank you 74 years old but i love mechanic work !!!
Please put some more videos showing you working on the forklift - it would be great to see your troubleshooting skills on a machine which has a few issues in the real world and how you fixed them as most people always just stick to cars or motorbikes
Just put in U joints on a friends Ram 1500. Luckily I have access to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and used the press and dies. Once I finished, the u joint was really tight and didn't pivot as smooth as I liked. A friend of mine also working in the shop that day told me of a "little trick" about tapping on the caps just a bit to set the needle bearings. It worked and the joint would pivot nice and smoothly. Ever heard of this? Just like everyone else...put it out there, we'll watch!
Great advice
Over the years of working in the industries, trucking and personal four wheeling I've learned that you should always stay with the same grease or if you switch then remove all the old grease. Different greases will attack each other and turn to a worthless light oil. Also, when installing u-joints, make sure you put the grease zerk so it is under compression when traveling forward. A hole in the u-joint where the zerk goes is a weak area. Enjoy your videos and humor. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for one of the best, informative, efficient, videos I've seen. I've never before learned so much in so short of time. You addressed EVERY STEP AND PROBLEMS ran accross. Thanks for all the tips. 1st joint - 5 hrs
Watched video. 2nd joint - just over an hour including a shit and a snack!! 2000 ford f250 super duty crew 4 x 4 7.3 Thanks again.
Best video on U-joints I have seen. Super job.
This video was the perfect balance of explanation and video. Even a dope like me could follow along! Thanks.
Very good with the detail, better than most teachers 👍🏽
Much appreciated Captain!
Great video! I always remove my grease zerks before installation. It prevents accidentally breaking them off, plus it gives excess grease a place to go during installation.
I did this with the front shaft on my 90 Suburban. I took the ring off the yoke and removed the yoke completely from the shaft to get it all cleaned out inside. Thanks for the videos.
How nice would a flight through that country be!!! Good instruction. Be like Brian, due diligence! Clean everything well! It will pay for itself on reassembly, don’t pound on those caps like they owe you money.
Best video I've seen on U joint replacement. Thank you
Raised on a farm and we had 100 and some cows............ Always fixing something, never seen your "slick" tool you got to push them joints out. Thank you Brian. Have to look into getting one of them. Take care.
Your by far the best how to video I’ve come across !
Oh, Brian! When you included Bert in the video, i literally fell out of my chair laughing. Thanks.
No comment, just thumbs up, always for you.
Me personally I would love to see all the footage you have on working on that thing and what you had to go through to get it to its point it is now
Excellent tips brother. Thanks for putting this video together. I'm done with hammering these in and out, borrowed a buddy's 6 ton HF press and it DOES make it so much easier.
Damnit it took me until 1am to get the job done, i watched a bunch of other crappy videos. Many thanks.
Thanks Brian. Filling the caps with new grease is fine , but also chase out the shipping grease from within the joint and zerk fitting ,it looks like earwax. That stuff is really not grease , but some sort of goop the manufacturer puts in there to keep corrosion in check during packaging , shipping and storage.
Yessir! Just found that out. Installed a sealed u-joint and was super stiff, so had to pop it out and inspect, found out that the manufacturers grease isn't grease at all. I pushed out the crap, removed and cleaned the needles and caps and packed it with wheel bearing grease. Works perfectly now. I was wondering why their stuff was so terrible... makes sense now.
Good commentary with a clear video. At 7:08 minutes two of the tack welds are cracked.
Good job. I just went through Canyon lands coming back from Utah to Mississippi this year.
My Man! You are a true professional. Could I borrow your brain for about 2 years? I've got my eye on a diesel 3500 pick up that I would like too restore and I feel you've got a treasure trove of tips and tricks on doings things that most pros know, but wont tell a sole. Thanks for this vid and I look forward to more of your info vids.
good video. old news for old hands like like allot of us, but the next best thing to a hard days work is watching someone else do it!!! You would be surprised how many young guys can't change a u-joint to save their lives. I like to take a small dremel wire wheel and clean the yoke and snap ring bores really well. do it right and you can almost install the caps by hand. start pouring the meat to the caps with a hammer and you'll end up knocking the needles out. 5 minutes of prep work will save you 30 minutes of curse words.
Thank you- great advice Joe!
Not really accurate. There needs to be an interference fit. If the cups install too easily than the fit is incorrect. A hammer is fine if you know how to keep the needles from falling out. As simple as some extra grease...
I don't think he meant the caps just alling into the yoke. What I do after everything is apart is take a brake hone and run it in the yoke. With that I can lightly tap the caps in with a light ballpeen hammer.
Great Job Sir!! I appreciate your detailed explanation of the u-joint axle repair. Thanks!!
Brian, I have always completely set up one side cap fully into the yoke so that when I tried to install the second cap, the span of the caps will be close enough together so that the u-joint will slide onto both sides at a time, negating any room for the needle bearings to slip out.
That's the way I was taught to
Ume the Emu Metoo
if your an expert why did you watch the video in the first place? STFU!
I love any content that you put out! Keep doing you, Brian!
I watched a bunch of these. This one rocks!! Thanks!!
Great tips Brian. I like the plug you made. (No one will ever know). It's amazing how much footage it takes to get a video posted. If you have footage of the canyon trip I'm one vote for "post it". :)
Thanks for the video, I was going to tackle it myself but will have to take it to a shop, did not know how involved it could be with the welding and all.
Your caption about the sensitivity of the human fingertip reminds me of what I read about a toyota factory master machinist---he would use his hands to feel and determine the quality of the machining of crankshafts.
Great show thank very much (Nick from Sydney Australia)
This is one of my next projects. Thanks.
YES to the forklift videos. What happened to the Metabo impact as your favorite?
Thanks, nice video. Haven't changed any universal joints in like 40 years. Last time was on a 70 ish Ford Mustang and it was easy as pie like the few before. Caps pressed out and in with just a few taps of my hammer. Working on my Kubota belly mower and these are so tight I was thinking I was going to mess up the yoke so I stopped, stepped back and slept on it, usually my best course of action. Anyway, picked up a few tips and will get'er done today.
You're killing it Bud! Great work, quality sense of humor, excellent video! I hope you're rewarded with big time success on here. Thank you for putting in the effort!
Great video!! I found you last night, I had a mechanic change mines last night and my axle fell of my Silverado while I was driving so you know why that could have happened?
Thank you, this will help with the steering shaft u joint replacement.
I've been replacing u-joints for years and I have to say I've approached them in many ways. In my youth it was a hammer and socket but now I use my homemade hydraulic press or my Astro ball joint tool I found on Amazon.
I wish I could post photos here but I think you get my meaning...
Thanks for sharing Brian and great work!
Good informative video, bud. I like and agree with using atf. I've been using dielectric, which works fine for high heat lubricant and rust prevention, but atf is way cheaper! Thanks
ATFLs are one of the most under rated pieces of equipment on the jobsite. They are so versatile.
Hi Brian shops coming along great. All the best.
Thanks Harold!
Make whatever vids you want, I'm sure we'll watch them.
Hi,by welding those washers in the centre,the prop will definitely be out of balance,correct me please if I am wrong..
Do you think a shallow brass freeze plug would tap in the end of that shaft instead of welding it like that?
Hi Brian I recall you making a video about a moonroof that wasn't working on a 9.3 Saab..
When you demoed what it did when you activated the key and the open switch, there was a sound like click click click click click click???
On my 2006 9.3 Saab I'm getting that same clicking sound every time I turn on and off my ignition
Key fob...What the Heck is that sound???
Newer trucks and cars have plastic holding the factory installed U-Joints instead of G clips. When you replace them, you need to heat them up with propane torch and the plastic will squirt out and then use G clips on the new ones. I've been working on cars since mid-sixties and first time I did this job I was a bit perplexed but after seeing for myself I realized no big deal.
Brian; it my help others to show them this particular twist so they can not be wondering what's going to happen. I never believed the plastic would just squirt out like that until I saw it happen.
Good video. Those ten buck U joints have ruined many a vacation and even caused drive shafts to drop out and pole vault vehicles into the air. It's great to be able to replace them yourself, and save lots of $$. Also so many original equipment joints do not have grease fittings, which ensures a failure.
That’s the best video I’ve seen for this procedure
I’m going to do mine on the trooper now!
Thanks man!
I agree it is the best explained video
This was an awesome video. Nice to see someone take the pains to do the job right. Very well narrated as well. Good to see old fashioned pride in the work. I wouldn’t have admitted to the boog placement though. “Jus sayin.” 😂 Thanks for the great video. 👍👍👍
Your a good teacher, Thank you Bro.
Let's see the fork lift rebuild!
TKS for sharing your experience and time for making this informative video. It's very good to know how it's done.
Hey bro, super helpful and loved “THE MACHINE” part haha. Btw, I may have blow the end of my end cap out and the rest is still in the yoke. Any ideas with an average Joe’s tools or recommend taking it to a pro shop?
Nice vid brian , like the rubber plug substitute with washers !! If ya could only explain to the audience why it’s VERY NECESSARY to tap the caps back against the snap rings so ya make room for grease to flow thru the cavity to the brgs !! Most vids I watched don’t know about or don’t know why their loosing up the trunnion/caps !! Btw my luck on hammering the caps in wouldn’t be as good as yours my needle brgs would’ve dislodged!! Question, on ya road trip to MV did ya run into the Griswalds ....lol 😎
Great video. I just had the shop press in a u-joint . One axis seems to move freely without any play. The other axis moves but seems a little stiff. Should I tap on the yoke like you do at 13:18 until it moves freely like the other axis? Any feedback would be appreciated.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌
on a jeep liberty 2003, Can I grease the spline that goes into the transfer case? The spline is doing a clunking sound every time I stop or accelerate. I think the spline needs grease or the u-joints are bad, but either way, is it ok to put grease on the spline? I am not a mechanic but I would like to get rid of the clunking sound.
Thank you for the realistic video.
Great job sir!
In the process of changing my u joints and carrier bearing on my 98 chevy. Info was very helpful thank you.
What type and brand of sealer did you use in this video?
thank you so very much for taking the time to make sure a amazing instructional video. So very helpful!!
What a great video. Thanks man. So well explained
Thanks mate. This was a very well detailed teaching on how to change out a u-joint. I'd not done one and this (I know) has already made the up-coming job SO much easier and faster. Thanks again :)
Another yes vote on posting the forklift vids!
Please make a video on the ether inflation of the tires. Thanks.
Brian , two things , a freeze out plug would have been real nice , also what I always do is I make a hone from a old antenna shaft , use the fattest portion cut it to 10 / 12 inches long , slice one end with the hacksaw down about 1in to 1 1/2 in , take roughly 10 / 12 inches of emery cloth , slide it into the slice that you cut , put the other end into a drill motor , variable speed works the best wrap the emery paper around in the direction that the drill will spin it , keeping it wound up ,insert it in the cup bore add some oil on the emery paper , spin it with the drill until the bore is nice an clean , works very well for me Frank T
One of my favorite channels . Thanks
Using the vice and socket, cross in one hole fit cap then try forcing the first cap all the way with the cross in that cap till the cross touches the other side of the vice(this means putting the first cap in further than it should be)put in the clip for that cap. next put the second cap on and with a socket send the whole cross and caps back till the first cap comes tight to the clip. Doing it that way makes it imposible for a needles to come out or tip as the cross holds it in place at all times. Resorting to a hammer especially for first cup may shed a needle even with grease in the hole, don't ask how i know.
I never change my u joints like this anymore , it's much quicker to zip cut them from the inside and tap them through with a small hammer , the initial shock loosens them up and your not fighting or dragging rust through the hole . Another reason is trying to push through extremely seized u joints you can tweak or deform the yoke and you will not get the retaining clip back in if their internal type with out a spreader tool . I tap them back in with a small ballpein hammer much quicker than pressing them in . I've been doing this for years .
I really like the way you explained that now I will do the same to my 97 jeep Cherokee I've got alot of work to do thanks for the good teaching
What can cause the snap rings to not fit all the way in? Even after getting 1 side in it'll start pushing the other side out..
Me to! love to see all your projects . I can always learn as long as you continue to share. Thank you!
I usually do this procedure similar to the way you do it, but I'm usually in the ditch beside the road. And out of beer.
Lost count of how many times i changed a u-joint out in the bush. Always carried a couple spares. Drop the driveshaft, lay it on the tailgate, and change the u-joint. Considered, one time, upgrading to ox-joints. But decided against it, as it's best to have an easy-to-fix weak point.
This was super helpful, thank you. I can get the second cap to fully seat…so probably a needle bearing fell down.
Great video on U-joints. I wondered how those are done. I would like to see your tire video, I have done the ether trick with some success, it doesn't always work.
Best ujoint video I've seen
I dont know avout U joints except what you've vocally taught. Seems genius, you're great!! Thanks!!
Thanks Jack!
That adjustable shaft is cool
I used your method of using the larger socket but I don’t have a vice so I put the larger socket under the yoke and a smaller one on the top side and they all came right out
Hello Brian could you please let me know where can I get that press to get the u joints out?
When having a lose u-joints from driveshaft.
Will that explain various noises from shaft when turning while driving??
Just fyi though if you are a diyer and start messing around with your driveshaft you can cause vibration. So this job is doable and not that hard, just know though that you can cause problems, I know this because I did.
I think in my instance my first mistake was not getting greaseable u joints I think the greaseable ones are more forgiving because you can put grease in there to help free them up. Also the u joints I got felt pretty tight, so I am gonna try and get some smoother greaseable ones.
Also you want the u joint to feel loose and it should turn freely and smoothly in the drive shaft, that is pretty important you don't want tightness.
Also it's CRITICAL that you mark everything so that it all goes back the same way it went in those drive shafts are BALANCED and if you start messing with that balance you can get vibrations.
Interesting how you use a giant clamp and impact.. lots of videos ive seen for a dana 44 axle, simply use a Big hammer and smack the ends at a angle and the caps pop out in a seconds
This is the BEST VIDEO I've seen on changing u-joints, I THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR. Also the plug you made was FINE, HELL IF IT WORKS YOU'VE FIXED THE PROBLEM, WHO'S GOING TO KNOW, EXCEPT THE SLIP JOINT & YOU ?
Umm... everybody who sees this video? We all know!
My first u joint job last year. Me and my brother rented that tool but I don’t have a impact and used a cross bar and it took us 3 evenings to get it out. It hindsight I should have bought that cordless impact.
Great u-joint info! Thx for the great video!
Did many u joints over the years and had a few that would not move especially on bigger trucks. Easiest way I found to get them out is with the fire wrench burn the cross bar off then the caps just about fall out.
Once again you knocked it out of the park good video tons and tons of information thanks and remember keep God frist
Jessica Watson- English ... English, huh. What is frist?
@@JW...-oj5iw a friendly fist. To give God a "fist bump" from the soul.
That was pre-covid, now it's all elbows. You definitely don't want to be the person who gives God covid!
My dear
With hamarings one or more of these needl bearings might fall across the cup n make things worst.. just use a vess only to press all cups