The moral of the story... Shop managers, hire those just out of high school to do this job. Why? Because when I was in high school auto mechanics i did this a bunch of times and consider it a task along the level of changing plugs. Now move the clock forward 60 years. I have to change my U Joints in my truck. So ran across this video and thought a refresher was in order. It should be a no-brainer ($10 parts and free labor) but after watching this video, I'm thinking, "You know, I'll probably take this to a shop since the labor will probably cost $150. LOL!" Nope, probably not because I have more money now, just lazier. And how much did U-Joints cost back in those days before China... I think about $6 ea. Great video! Thanks!
“Grinders and paint make me the welder I ain’t” Lol, love it, I have 2 girls too and 2 cats that NEED to know what I’m doing every second. I complain but wouldn’t trade it for the world. Thanks for the tips.
Love your style,, I have been a mechanic for about 50 years and back when I didn't have a press to push the cups out, I had to beat the cups out with a hammer. But other than that,, I replace the joint exactly like u do,, the grease in the cups have saved me many times. Harry lewis
Not gonna lie, i hate when mechanics say "Im a professional mechanic" because often times they are complete idiots. Ive met some dumb "ASE Master mechanics" in my day
Over the years of working in the industries, trucking and personal four wheeling I've learned that you should always stay with the same grease or if you switch then remove all the old grease. Different greases will attack each other and turn to a worthless light oil. Also, when installing u-joints, make sure you put the grease zerk so it is under compression when traveling forward. A hole in the u-joint where the zerk goes is a weak area. Enjoy your videos and humor. Keep up the good work!
wonderful show i have replaced many of these in cars and tks. some were easy some were horrible!!! any tips are helpful never ever to old to learn !!! safety safety first easy to loose eye thank you 74 years old but i love mechanic work !!!
Wow, I think this is the most helpful video I've found for just walking through the process of doing U-Joints. I've done plenty of these over the years, but I can see that some of your little tips are just pure gold! I've never heard of using the ATF before, but I'll certainly be picking up a quart of that as I work over my CJ-5. I'm just at the point where I'm putting axles shaft u-joints in, so this video is definitely getting a bookmark! Thanks!
Try 50 % Acetone & 50 % (synthetic) ATF to loosen any bolt, they contain the smallest Moly of penetrating fluid. Mix a table spoon together let it sit for 5 min, Acetone loosen the rust, Synthetic ATF lubercate the parts for disassembly..
I had an old mechanic tell me to watch for the rustty red color of a brick! He taught me that when you have a piece of metal grinding together that has no lubrication it pulverize the iron and turns it back into Orr! Which is what it started out as in the beginning! Orr is the color of a clay red brick when it is extracted from old mother earth. I have wrenched on cars for thirty plus years and have seen and looked for this color to tell me I have pieces that are dry of lubrication and needs attention 😉
Thanks for one of the best, informative, efficient, videos I've seen. I've never before learned so much in so short of time. You addressed EVERY STEP AND PROBLEMS ran accross. Thanks for all the tips. 1st joint - 5 hrs Watched video. 2nd joint - just over an hour including a shit and a snack!! 2000 ford f250 super duty crew 4 x 4 7.3 Thanks again.
I did this with the front shaft on my 90 Suburban. I took the ring off the yoke and removed the yoke completely from the shaft to get it all cleaned out inside. Thanks for the videos.
Raised on a farm and we had 100 and some cows............ Always fixing something, never seen your "slick" tool you got to push them joints out. Thank you Brian. Have to look into getting one of them. Take care.
Just put in U joints on a friends Ram 1500. Luckily I have access to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and used the press and dies. Once I finished, the u joint was really tight and didn't pivot as smooth as I liked. A friend of mine also working in the shop that day told me of a "little trick" about tapping on the caps just a bit to set the needle bearings. It worked and the joint would pivot nice and smoothly. Ever heard of this? Just like everyone else...put it out there, we'll watch!
Great video! I always remove my grease zerks before installation. It prevents accidentally breaking them off, plus it gives excess grease a place to go during installation.
Please put some more videos showing you working on the forklift - it would be great to see your troubleshooting skills on a machine which has a few issues in the real world and how you fixed them as most people always just stick to cars or motorbikes
How nice would a flight through that country be!!! Good instruction. Be like Brian, due diligence! Clean everything well! It will pay for itself on reassembly, don’t pound on those caps like they owe you money.
Excellent tips brother. Thanks for putting this video together. I'm done with hammering these in and out, borrowed a buddy's 6 ton HF press and it DOES make it so much easier.
Thanks, nice video. Haven't changed any universal joints in like 40 years. Last time was on a 70 ish Ford Mustang and it was easy as pie like the few before. Caps pressed out and in with just a few taps of my hammer. Working on my Kubota belly mower and these are so tight I was thinking I was going to mess up the yoke so I stopped, stepped back and slept on it, usually my best course of action. Anyway, picked up a few tips and will get'er done today.
My Man! You are a true professional. Could I borrow your brain for about 2 years? I've got my eye on a diesel 3500 pick up that I would like too restore and I feel you've got a treasure trove of tips and tricks on doings things that most pros know, but wont tell a sole. Thanks for this vid and I look forward to more of your info vids.
I've been replacing u-joints for years and I have to say I've approached them in many ways. In my youth it was a hammer and socket but now I use my homemade hydraulic press or my Astro ball joint tool I found on Amazon. I wish I could post photos here but I think you get my meaning... Thanks for sharing Brian and great work!
I never change my u joints like this anymore , it's much quicker to zip cut them from the inside and tap them through with a small hammer , the initial shock loosens them up and your not fighting or dragging rust through the hole . Another reason is trying to push through extremely seized u joints you can tweak or deform the yoke and you will not get the retaining clip back in if their internal type with out a spreader tool . I tap them back in with a small ballpein hammer much quicker than pressing them in . I've been doing this for years .
Great tips Brian. I like the plug you made. (No one will ever know). It's amazing how much footage it takes to get a video posted. If you have footage of the canyon trip I'm one vote for "post it". :)
Thanks Brian. Filling the caps with new grease is fine , but also chase out the shipping grease from within the joint and zerk fitting ,it looks like earwax. That stuff is really not grease , but some sort of goop the manufacturer puts in there to keep corrosion in check during packaging , shipping and storage.
Yessir! Just found that out. Installed a sealed u-joint and was super stiff, so had to pop it out and inspect, found out that the manufacturers grease isn't grease at all. I pushed out the crap, removed and cleaned the needles and caps and packed it with wheel bearing grease. Works perfectly now. I was wondering why their stuff was so terrible... makes sense now.
Thanks for the video, I was going to tackle it myself but will have to take it to a shop, did not know how involved it could be with the welding and all.
Just fyi though if you are a diyer and start messing around with your driveshaft you can cause vibration. So this job is doable and not that hard, just know though that you can cause problems, I know this because I did. I think in my instance my first mistake was not getting greaseable u joints I think the greaseable ones are more forgiving because you can put grease in there to help free them up. Also the u joints I got felt pretty tight, so I am gonna try and get some smoother greaseable ones. Also you want the u joint to feel loose and it should turn freely and smoothly in the drive shaft, that is pretty important you don't want tightness. Also it's CRITICAL that you mark everything so that it all goes back the same way it went in those drive shafts are BALANCED and if you start messing with that balance you can get vibrations.
Newer trucks and cars have plastic holding the factory installed U-Joints instead of G clips. When you replace them, you need to heat them up with propane torch and the plastic will squirt out and then use G clips on the new ones. I've been working on cars since mid-sixties and first time I did this job I was a bit perplexed but after seeing for myself I realized no big deal. Brian; it my help others to show them this particular twist so they can not be wondering what's going to happen. I never believed the plastic would just squirt out like that until I saw it happen.
good video. old news for old hands like like allot of us, but the next best thing to a hard days work is watching someone else do it!!! You would be surprised how many young guys can't change a u-joint to save their lives. I like to take a small dremel wire wheel and clean the yoke and snap ring bores really well. do it right and you can almost install the caps by hand. start pouring the meat to the caps with a hammer and you'll end up knocking the needles out. 5 minutes of prep work will save you 30 minutes of curse words.
Not really accurate. There needs to be an interference fit. If the cups install too easily than the fit is incorrect. A hammer is fine if you know how to keep the needles from falling out. As simple as some extra grease...
I don't think he meant the caps just alling into the yoke. What I do after everything is apart is take a brake hone and run it in the yoke. With that I can lightly tap the caps in with a light ballpeen hammer.
Brian, I have always completely set up one side cap fully into the yoke so that when I tried to install the second cap, the span of the caps will be close enough together so that the u-joint will slide onto both sides at a time, negating any room for the needle bearings to slip out.
Your caption about the sensitivity of the human fingertip reminds me of what I read about a toyota factory master machinist---he would use his hands to feel and determine the quality of the machining of crankshafts.
Good informative video, bud. I like and agree with using atf. I've been using dielectric, which works fine for high heat lubricant and rust prevention, but atf is way cheaper! Thanks
Good video. Those ten buck U joints have ruined many a vacation and even caused drive shafts to drop out and pole vault vehicles into the air. It's great to be able to replace them yourself, and save lots of $$. Also so many original equipment joints do not have grease fittings, which ensures a failure.
You're killing it Bud! Great work, quality sense of humor, excellent video! I hope you're rewarded with big time success on here. Thank you for putting in the effort!
This was an awesome video. Nice to see someone take the pains to do the job right. Very well narrated as well. Good to see old fashioned pride in the work. I wouldn’t have admitted to the boog placement though. “Jus sayin.” 😂 Thanks for the great video. 👍👍👍
As a diesel tech, we have a really nice tool to remove from truck. I decided to remove the 4wd axle due to worn ujoint, hammered on the joint to remove it from the shaft and busted the yoke that mount to the transfer case, ooops
Did many u joints over the years and had a few that would not move especially on bigger trucks. Easiest way I found to get them out is with the fire wrench burn the cross bar off then the caps just about fall out.
My first u joint job last year. Me and my brother rented that tool but I don’t have a impact and used a cross bar and it took us 3 evenings to get it out. It hindsight I should have bought that cordless impact.
I used your method of using the larger socket but I don’t have a vice so I put the larger socket under the yoke and a smaller one on the top side and they all came right out
good video.. want to add one thing here.. hopefully it doesn't confuse too many people ?? you always want to install the U-JOINT to COMPRESS the zerk fitting area .. meaning you want to the driving force to be compressing it... not tearing away from it.. the yoke off the transmission is the driving force.. the end of the driveshaft is the driving force before the rear differential yoke... the grease fitting is the weak part of a u-joint so it makes sense to be compressing it and not pulling away from it...
I learned that grease the needles with my finger from trial and error of just doing u joints on my own i knew that was a good idea escpecially now that i see you do the same.
ATF is good stuff. Mix it 50/50 with acetone, and soak steel parts that have rusted together loose again, provided it has not fully fused together. Fixed a very old Colt .38 revolver like that once. The (revolving) cylinder also known as 'the wheel" had rusted to the crane's axle shaft. Soaked it for @ 8 days in a closed container. Freed right up. WAs frozen so tight I couldn't begin to turn when I started. On driveshaft universals, I remove them by using correct diameter sockets and the vise as a press to press out the universal. Cheap, no special tool/s and works well. One needs a helper though, to help hold/align DS.
This is the BEST VIDEO I've seen on changing u-joints, I THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR. Also the plug you made was FINE, HELL IF IT WORKS YOU'VE FIXED THE PROBLEM, WHO'S GOING TO KNOW, EXCEPT THE SLIP JOINT & YOU ?
Brian , two things , a freeze out plug would have been real nice , also what I always do is I make a hone from a old antenna shaft , use the fattest portion cut it to 10 / 12 inches long , slice one end with the hacksaw down about 1in to 1 1/2 in , take roughly 10 / 12 inches of emery cloth , slide it into the slice that you cut , put the other end into a drill motor , variable speed works the best wrap the emery paper around in the direction that the drill will spin it , keeping it wound up ,insert it in the cup bore add some oil on the emery paper , spin it with the drill until the bore is nice an clean , works very well for me Frank T
Great video on U-joints. I wondered how those are done. I would like to see your tire video, I have done the ether trick with some success, it doesn't always work.
The best thing about this video is that everything is closeup and in detail. That makes all the difference.
The worst thing about this video is he's over explaining him self.
This guy knows how to teach and how to make videos that do that. He's very personable and the lesson is thorough without being boring.
Brian you saved my BACON. Instructions were perfect. Thanks A MILLION.
The moral of the story... Shop managers, hire those just out of high school to do this job. Why? Because when I was in high school auto mechanics i did this a bunch of times and consider it a task along the level of changing plugs. Now move the clock forward 60 years. I have to change my U Joints in my truck. So ran across this video and thought a refresher was in order. It should be a no-brainer ($10 parts and free labor) but after watching this video, I'm thinking, "You know, I'll probably take this to a shop since the labor will probably cost $150. LOL!" Nope, probably not because I have more money now, just lazier. And how much did U-Joints cost back in those days before China... I think about $6 ea. Great video! Thanks!
Welcome Sam!
“Grinders and paint make me the welder I ain’t”
Lol, love it, I have 2 girls too and 2 cats that NEED to know what I’m doing every second.
I complain but wouldn’t trade it for the world.
Thanks for the tips.
Love your style,, I have been a mechanic for about 50 years and back when I didn't have a press to push the cups out, I had to beat the cups out with a hammer. But other than that,, I replace the joint exactly like u do,, the grease in the cups have saved me many times. Harry lewis
Thanks Harry!
Ppppoo
From an old ASE master, I like your video, also like your personality and laid back manner, thanks.
Not gonna lie, i hate when mechanics say "Im a professional mechanic" because often times they are complete idiots. Ive met some dumb "ASE Master mechanics" in my day
@@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 - Well said. In my dictionary, ASE stands for Ask Someone Else 😀
Over the years of working in the industries, trucking and personal four wheeling I've learned that you should always stay with the same grease or if you switch then remove all the old grease. Different greases will attack each other and turn to a worthless light oil. Also, when installing u-joints, make sure you put the grease zerk so it is under compression when traveling forward. A hole in the u-joint where the zerk goes is a weak area. Enjoy your videos and humor. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the tips!
wonderful show i have replaced many of these in cars and tks. some were easy some were horrible!!! any tips are helpful never ever to old to learn !!! safety safety first easy to loose eye thank you 74 years old but i love mechanic work !!!
Wow, I think this is the most helpful video I've found for just walking through the process of doing U-Joints. I've done plenty of these over the years, but I can see that some of your little tips are just pure gold! I've never heard of using the ATF before, but I'll certainly be picking up a quart of that as I work over my CJ-5. I'm just at the point where I'm putting axles shaft u-joints in, so this video is definitely getting a bookmark! Thanks!
Try 50 % Acetone & 50 % (synthetic) ATF to loosen any bolt, they contain the smallest Moly of penetrating fluid. Mix a table spoon together let it sit for 5 min, Acetone loosen the rust, Synthetic ATF lubercate the parts for disassembly..
I had an old mechanic tell me to watch for the rustty red color of a brick! He taught me that when you have a piece of metal grinding together that has no lubrication it pulverize the iron and turns it back into Orr! Which is what it started out as in the beginning! Orr is the color of a clay red brick when it is extracted from old mother earth. I have wrenched on cars for thirty plus years and have seen and looked for this color to tell me I have pieces that are dry of lubrication and needs attention 😉
Thanks for one of the best, informative, efficient, videos I've seen. I've never before learned so much in so short of time. You addressed EVERY STEP AND PROBLEMS ran accross. Thanks for all the tips. 1st joint - 5 hrs
Watched video. 2nd joint - just over an hour including a shit and a snack!! 2000 ford f250 super duty crew 4 x 4 7.3 Thanks again.
I love these hammerheads that give advice.. . They need to create their own video since they are so wise. Thank you for the great videos.
I did this with the front shaft on my 90 Suburban. I took the ring off the yoke and removed the yoke completely from the shaft to get it all cleaned out inside. Thanks for the videos.
Raised on a farm and we had 100 and some cows............ Always fixing something, never seen your "slick" tool you got to push them joints out. Thank you Brian. Have to look into getting one of them. Take care.
Just put in U joints on a friends Ram 1500. Luckily I have access to the Auto Hobby Shop on base and used the press and dies. Once I finished, the u joint was really tight and didn't pivot as smooth as I liked. A friend of mine also working in the shop that day told me of a "little trick" about tapping on the caps just a bit to set the needle bearings. It worked and the joint would pivot nice and smoothly. Ever heard of this? Just like everyone else...put it out there, we'll watch!
Great advice
This video was the perfect balance of explanation and video. Even a dope like me could follow along! Thanks.
Best video on U-joints I have seen. Super job.
Very good with the detail, better than most teachers 👍🏽
Much appreciated Captain!
Good commentary with a clear video. At 7:08 minutes two of the tack welds are cracked.
Great video! I always remove my grease zerks before installation. It prevents accidentally breaking them off, plus it gives excess grease a place to go during installation.
Best video I've seen on U joint replacement. Thank you
Please put some more videos showing you working on the forklift - it would be great to see your troubleshooting skills on a machine which has a few issues in the real world and how you fixed them as most people always just stick to cars or motorbikes
How nice would a flight through that country be!!! Good instruction. Be like Brian, due diligence! Clean everything well! It will pay for itself on reassembly, don’t pound on those caps like they owe you money.
I watched a bunch of these. This one rocks!! Thanks!!
Your by far the best how to video I’ve come across !
Oh, Brian! When you included Bert in the video, i literally fell out of my chair laughing. Thanks.
This is one of my next projects. Thanks.
Thank you, this will help with the steering shaft u joint replacement.
Excellent tips brother. Thanks for putting this video together. I'm done with hammering these in and out, borrowed a buddy's 6 ton HF press and it DOES make it so much easier.
Great show thank very much (Nick from Sydney Australia)
That adjustable shaft is cool
Good job. I just went through Canyon lands coming back from Utah to Mississippi this year.
Damnit it took me until 1am to get the job done, i watched a bunch of other crappy videos. Many thanks.
Thanks, nice video. Haven't changed any universal joints in like 40 years. Last time was on a 70 ish Ford Mustang and it was easy as pie like the few before. Caps pressed out and in with just a few taps of my hammer. Working on my Kubota belly mower and these are so tight I was thinking I was going to mess up the yoke so I stopped, stepped back and slept on it, usually my best course of action. Anyway, picked up a few tips and will get'er done today.
No comment, just thumbs up, always for you.
I love any content that you put out! Keep doing you, Brian!
My Man! You are a true professional. Could I borrow your brain for about 2 years? I've got my eye on a diesel 3500 pick up that I would like too restore and I feel you've got a treasure trove of tips and tricks on doings things that most pros know, but wont tell a sole. Thanks for this vid and I look forward to more of your info vids.
Great Job Sir!! I appreciate your detailed explanation of the u-joint axle repair. Thanks!!
I've been replacing u-joints for years and I have to say I've approached them in many ways. In my youth it was a hammer and socket but now I use my homemade hydraulic press or my Astro ball joint tool I found on Amazon.
I wish I could post photos here but I think you get my meaning...
Thanks for sharing Brian and great work!
I never change my u joints like this anymore , it's much quicker to zip cut them from the inside and tap them through with a small hammer , the initial shock loosens them up and your not fighting or dragging rust through the hole . Another reason is trying to push through extremely seized u joints you can tweak or deform the yoke and you will not get the retaining clip back in if their internal type with out a spreader tool . I tap them back in with a small ballpein hammer much quicker than pressing them in . I've been doing this for years .
Great tips Brian. I like the plug you made. (No one will ever know). It's amazing how much footage it takes to get a video posted. If you have footage of the canyon trip I'm one vote for "post it". :)
Thanks Brian. Filling the caps with new grease is fine , but also chase out the shipping grease from within the joint and zerk fitting ,it looks like earwax. That stuff is really not grease , but some sort of goop the manufacturer puts in there to keep corrosion in check during packaging , shipping and storage.
Yessir! Just found that out. Installed a sealed u-joint and was super stiff, so had to pop it out and inspect, found out that the manufacturers grease isn't grease at all. I pushed out the crap, removed and cleaned the needles and caps and packed it with wheel bearing grease. Works perfectly now. I was wondering why their stuff was so terrible... makes sense now.
Me personally I would love to see all the footage you have on working on that thing and what you had to go through to get it to its point it is now
Thanks for the video, I was going to tackle it myself but will have to take it to a shop, did not know how involved it could be with the welding and all.
Your a good teacher, Thank you Bro.
Just fyi though if you are a diyer and start messing around with your driveshaft you can cause vibration. So this job is doable and not that hard, just know though that you can cause problems, I know this because I did.
I think in my instance my first mistake was not getting greaseable u joints I think the greaseable ones are more forgiving because you can put grease in there to help free them up. Also the u joints I got felt pretty tight, so I am gonna try and get some smoother greaseable ones.
Also you want the u joint to feel loose and it should turn freely and smoothly in the drive shaft, that is pretty important you don't want tightness.
Also it's CRITICAL that you mark everything so that it all goes back the same way it went in those drive shafts are BALANCED and if you start messing with that balance you can get vibrations.
Newer trucks and cars have plastic holding the factory installed U-Joints instead of G clips. When you replace them, you need to heat them up with propane torch and the plastic will squirt out and then use G clips on the new ones. I've been working on cars since mid-sixties and first time I did this job I was a bit perplexed but after seeing for myself I realized no big deal.
Brian; it my help others to show them this particular twist so they can not be wondering what's going to happen. I never believed the plastic would just squirt out like that until I saw it happen.
You doing very good job 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video 👌👌👌👌👌
You teaching very good good teacher 👌👌👌👌👌
ATFLs are one of the most under rated pieces of equipment on the jobsite. They are so versatile.
good video. old news for old hands like like allot of us, but the next best thing to a hard days work is watching someone else do it!!! You would be surprised how many young guys can't change a u-joint to save their lives. I like to take a small dremel wire wheel and clean the yoke and snap ring bores really well. do it right and you can almost install the caps by hand. start pouring the meat to the caps with a hammer and you'll end up knocking the needles out. 5 minutes of prep work will save you 30 minutes of curse words.
Thank you- great advice Joe!
Not really accurate. There needs to be an interference fit. If the cups install too easily than the fit is incorrect. A hammer is fine if you know how to keep the needles from falling out. As simple as some extra grease...
I don't think he meant the caps just alling into the yoke. What I do after everything is apart is take a brake hone and run it in the yoke. With that I can lightly tap the caps in with a light ballpeen hammer.
Brian, I have always completely set up one side cap fully into the yoke so that when I tried to install the second cap, the span of the caps will be close enough together so that the u-joint will slide onto both sides at a time, negating any room for the needle bearings to slip out.
That's the way I was taught to
Ume the Emu Metoo
if your an expert why did you watch the video in the first place? STFU!
That’s the best video I’ve seen for this procedure
I’m going to do mine on the trooper now!
Thanks man!
I agree it is the best explained video
Hi Brian shops coming along great. All the best.
Thanks Harold!
Your caption about the sensitivity of the human fingertip reminds me of what I read about a toyota factory master machinist---he would use his hands to feel and determine the quality of the machining of crankshafts.
Good informative video, bud. I like and agree with using atf. I've been using dielectric, which works fine for high heat lubricant and rust prevention, but atf is way cheaper! Thanks
What a great video. Thanks man. So well explained
Thank you for the realistic video.
Great job sir!
Good video. Those ten buck U joints have ruined many a vacation and even caused drive shafts to drop out and pole vault vehicles into the air. It's great to be able to replace them yourself, and save lots of $$. Also so many original equipment joints do not have grease fittings, which ensures a failure.
I use a impact hammer and tap the 2 guides on the trans to loosing them and it’ll come right out 😊 👍
You're killing it Bud! Great work, quality sense of humor, excellent video! I hope you're rewarded with big time success on here. Thank you for putting in the effort!
This was an awesome video. Nice to see someone take the pains to do the job right. Very well narrated as well. Good to see old fashioned pride in the work. I wouldn’t have admitted to the boog placement though. “Jus sayin.” 😂 Thanks for the great video. 👍👍👍
Excellent advice. Through training video!
This was super helpful, thank you. I can get the second cap to fully seat…so probably a needle bearing fell down.
One of my favorite channels . Thanks
As a diesel tech, we have a really nice tool to remove from truck. I decided to remove the 4wd axle due to worn ujoint, hammered on the joint to remove it from the shaft and busted the yoke that mount to the transfer case, ooops
YES to the forklift videos. What happened to the Metabo impact as your favorite?
great video, will be doing this on my 68 Camaro
Did many u joints over the years and had a few that would not move especially on bigger trucks. Easiest way I found to get them out is with the fire wrench burn the cross bar off then the caps just about fall out.
My first u joint job last year. Me and my brother rented that tool but I don’t have a impact and used a cross bar and it took us 3 evenings to get it out. It hindsight I should have bought that cordless impact.
In the process of changing my u joints and carrier bearing on my 98 chevy. Info was very helpful thank you.
Let's see the fork lift rebuild!
TKS for sharing your experience and time for making this informative video. It's very good to know how it's done.
I used your method of using the larger socket but I don’t have a vice so I put the larger socket under the yoke and a smaller one on the top side and they all came right out
thank you so very much for taking the time to make sure a amazing instructional video. So very helpful!!
good video.. want to add one thing here.. hopefully it doesn't confuse too many people ?? you always want to install the U-JOINT to COMPRESS the zerk fitting area .. meaning you want to the driving force to be compressing it... not tearing away from it.. the yoke off the transmission is the driving force.. the end of the driveshaft is the driving force before the rear differential yoke... the grease fitting is the weak part of a u-joint so it makes sense to be compressing it and not pulling away from it...
Make whatever vids you want, I'm sure we'll watch them.
I learned that grease the needles with my finger from trial and error of just doing u joints on my own i knew that was a good idea escpecially now that i see you do the same.
I really like the way you explained that now I will do the same to my 97 jeep Cherokee I've got alot of work to do thanks for the good teaching
Please make a video on the ether inflation of the tires. Thanks.
Very Helpful Thank You
You're welcome Robert!
Great u-joint info! Thx for the great video!
Yup!! Videos of the shop and the canyon lands!! Pretty please, Brian! :)
Another yes vote on posting the forklift vids!
great video with awesome tips sir, thank you!
Awesome videos as always Brian
Learned a lot in this video. Thanks!
ATF is good stuff. Mix it 50/50 with acetone, and soak steel parts that have rusted together loose again, provided it has not fully fused together. Fixed a very old Colt .38 revolver like that once. The (revolving) cylinder also known as 'the wheel" had rusted to the crane's axle shaft. Soaked it for @ 8 days in a closed container. Freed right up. WAs frozen so tight I couldn't begin to turn when I started.
On driveshaft universals, I remove them by using correct diameter sockets and the vise as a press to press out the universal. Cheap, no special tool/s and works well. One needs a helper though, to help hold/align DS.
My assembly lube of choice is White Lithium Grease. However, I do like the ATF idea 💡
You can use some antirust spray before you take out the clips
I use only a good hammer and vice to change the u-joint
This is the BEST VIDEO I've seen on changing u-joints, I THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH SIR. Also the plug you made was FINE, HELL IF IT WORKS YOU'VE FIXED THE PROBLEM, WHO'S GOING TO KNOW, EXCEPT THE SLIP JOINT & YOU ?
Umm... everybody who sees this video? We all know!
Best ujoint video I've seen
Great & Helpful Information. Thank you
Great presentation!
Nice job Brian.
very good and professional thanx
Brian , two things , a freeze out plug would have been real nice , also what I always do is I make a hone from a old antenna shaft , use the fattest portion cut it to 10 / 12 inches long , slice one end with the hacksaw down about 1in to 1 1/2 in , take roughly 10 / 12 inches of emery cloth , slide it into the slice that you cut , put the other end into a drill motor , variable speed works the best wrap the emery paper around in the direction that the drill will spin it , keeping it wound up ,insert it in the cup bore add some oil on the emery paper , spin it with the drill until the bore is nice an clean , works very well for me Frank T
Me to! love to see all your projects . I can always learn as long as you continue to share. Thank you!
Great video on U-joints. I wondered how those are done. I would like to see your tire video, I have done the ether trick with some success, it doesn't always work.
Fantastic advice, thanks for sharing!