I used the drywall screw method ,, I used painters tape around the shaft to protect it and it worked like a champ .. I opted to throw and o ring between the seals just for added piece of mind .. this is an easy driveway fix but ridiculous price at a shop .. thanks man
Nicely done video. Tried method one, could not get the drywall screws to seat into the bearing, even after trying to drill a pilot hole. After over an hour, ended up using a dremel tool to cut into the seal (away from the shaft) and basically tear and pry the seal with a seal puller. Took couple hours and lots of patience, especially the inner seal, but finally prevailed. This job is not for the faint of heart or impatient!
I do the flat screwdriver and use 2 picks . Easy Peasy . just be mindful of the shaft and install seals with the first ones spring pointing in and the second with the spring pointing out back to back with springs opposite each other .
Many Thanks for this - just tried the screw driver technique. Wasn't very difficult to just slowly work around and deform the old oil seals in by wedging a small flat head screw driver in between the casing and the oil seal. As Aaron says just be careful not to go anywhere near the prop shaft and orient the screw driver as much as possible so it is not angled towards the outer casing either. Only took about 10 minutes and once the seal is deformed enough it will come out pretty easily (you'll see it start to move). Problem was though I went a little too deep in places when deforming the lower oil seal. So the screw driver came into contact with the steel bearing housing behind the lower oil seal. So this has left a couple of little nicks in that bearing housing. This potentially opens a gap between it and the new oil seals which I guess will reduce the seal efficiency? I just removed any sharp edges on those nicks and pressed any deformation out with the screw driver as best I could but just though I'd warn people about this. Particularly as you can actually feel when the screw driver makes contact with that bearing housing. When hitting the screw driver with a hammer it should sound a little dull and soft when you are between the oil seal and the outer casing. When the screw driver makes contact with the steel bearing housing it will feel and sound rock hard. At that point don't give it another couple of taps like I did and you'll be fine. If you do just make sure you use some gasket sealer as in Aaron advises as even more important and also if there are scratches from the screw driver on the inside of the outer casing.
Nice job again, to keep Murphy’s from entering, I believe I will use the small flat head screw driver instead of the drywall screw method. Thank you for all you do to help people like myself, that has more time than money. You are awesome my friend, Thanks Robert
I'll be replacing the seals on my 80 Evinrude 15. After watching this video I'm confident I can do it correctly. I think I'll try the drywall screw method first. And, thankyou for stressing how important it is not to scratch the prop shaft!
Last night I gave this a go. I love to analyze the work that I’m going to do. HUGE TIP for everyone that wants to remove everything. I know there’s a proper tool on removing the whole assembly. So I got this idea and it work amazing !. After removing the propeller and the 4 screws or whatever you have. I decided to run a ratchet strap and feed it through the holes. I came back up and tide a knot. I made sure I had a great loop because in between I used a small jack that comes in your vehicles. I jacked it up where I created tension with the loop I created with the ratchet strap. That thing work perfectly and I was able to get the whole assembly. There’s many ways to go about it. Best thing is to not be afraid and do it right.
Dude!... excellent job on the video. The drywall screw trick was amazing. I understand the risks, and will probably get a puller to help avoid them, but what an option to have when you can't get your hands on a specialized tool like a seal puller. I really enjoyed your thorough explanation of all of the processes. The clear instructions give me hope that I'll be able to replace the seals on a 2004 Honda 90hp that I recently came by. Wish me luck!
@@BornAgainBoating So I went ahead and pulled the whole bearing carrier. However, I still can't get the prop shaft to come out. What am I missing? Do I need to pull the shift shaft to get the prop shaft to come the rest of the way out? I want to check all the gears and replace the bearings/seals... so that I don't have to worry about this motor when I put it on the water.
The flathead screw driver is good. Less harmful to the prop shaft. Great job. What o ring tool kit did you have there in that red box. Thanks for the video.
Good tips I will let you know how it goes. For the seal installation would you clarify the direction of the seals. One side of the seal is open, which way should they face on a mercury 97 225 with a 4.75 housing.
Excellent instruction!! Do you believe this job can be done without removing the lower unit from the outboard (1985 Yamaha 40hp)? The outboard would also be mounted to the transom. Or maybe it is a big advantage removing the lower unit that I'm not seeing...
You must do motor repair full time. Best videos. So is the driveshaft seal done the same way? I have Etec 40HP 2011. Im going to tear into the lower unit and want to replace everything where water may intrude as oil is milky. Bought it used and apparently they changed the oil before I bought and snuck this by me. Next time I will know that you take the boat out then check the oil.
On a Yamaha F50 I have used 3 6mm high propshaft seals, instead of 2 factory fitted seals. The inner seal remained intact even if outer two were severely damaged by fishing line or braid. worked great.
Carrier would NOT come off; I don’t have a puller. Drywall screw method ROCKED! Your video is so well done, I was confident enough to pull it off. Thanks tons!
Oh my oh my what happens when it gives up 20 miles off the coast and blows your gears up? Leaving you bobbing in the water like a cork ? Lol don’t listen to these butchers! This is nothing to play with. People die from mistakes like this!
Thanks for a great video. My first time changing all the seals. I used the screwdriver and the seal puller. I just took my time, the first one took more time than the second one. Do you have a video of changing the upper shaft seals?
Just did my upper and lower seals. The lower seals I used the dry wall screw trick, worked great! Question tho, in the video it says you can try to flip the seals....why would that work if you just drilled a hole through them?
I use the screw method. I notice you said both seals with spring facing up, toward the prop. The manual I bought for my Yamaha shows and says first seal in spring to oil and second seal in spring towards the prop. Is my book wrong? I havnt had any issues but if your way comes from yamaha I'll start doing it that way. I have a 150 and twin 200s and do all my own work. Excellent channel BTW. Especially like the fiberglass vids
Thanks always for your hard work putting together the informative videos, great job very much appreciated. So you asked which method do I prefer, the easy answer is the one that works lol. I am working on my twin Mercury 3.0 225's replacing the seals. I started with the starboard OB which has the outer seal installed incorrectly. Attempting to drive a screw in the seal was a no go the screw did not even scratch the seal, so I attempted to drive a self tapping screw, and it just danced on the seal. Time for a pilot hole, not a chance and I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg. to the seal case. Adding a center punch proved to be unhelpful with out a long bit. So I moved to the method of taping along the edge no good. 3rd try is the destruction method yes the destruction method as the seal just was not cooperating. Not sure what was used to install the seal but it seems to be fused to the carrier, and the destruction is all that seems to be happening. HELP! How much heat can be applied safely to the carrier and seal case? Can the seals be pressed out if the carrier is removed, need your help.
" I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg" --> Just get 6mm (1/4") Bar and braze onto end of Drill Bit to make a custom extra long extension. Have done this successfully may times.
I use a modified OMC seal puller that basically screws itself into the seals and has a center bolt to pull the seals out, then an aluminum pipe to install the new seals
On my yamaha f150 from 2005. there was only one oil seal originaly. First time I noticed water in oil on 2000 hours now it is 17 years old. Is it correct that it has only one rubber seal on prop shaft? Should I put in two seals like in service manual diagram? Thanks
I just drained the engine oil on my 2021 Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
Great content! Bought a fancy seal puller slide hammer to be safe and didn’t work so had to resort to the dry wall screw method. Stayed away from the inner shaft however when trying the flat head pry method I went a little to deep and damaged the outside of the carrier bearing lip that the seal sits on.. I believe it’s just there to make space between the seals so it doesn’t sit ontop of the bearing. Do you think I will be alright letting it ride or replace the carrier housing to be safe?
Hi great video just a question i have a 210 Quintrex legend center console boat with a 60 hp Mercury engine i think its a bigfoot its hard to shift in to gear i have taken control cables off and it shifts smoothly so must be at the engine end any ideas i can do to make it change smoother thank you
I prefer as I already have a few months ago, paid a ''technician'' like yourself to do it for me. All of them, every seal possible. I only know how to really wreck stuff, versus change them. (Don't slam your prop into rocks folks...your seals will eventually leak)
I would like to know if this process works for a 2008 Mercury Verado 225 with the 4.8 Torpedo? If not have you done a video of a Mercury Verado lower unit inspection and service with all of the seals replaced. I always inspect my lower unit, only replacing the CARRIER ASSEMBLY Oil Seal annually. This year I want to replace the shift shaft seals, and would like to replace the prop shat seals.
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Exactly the video I needed. I see that you've attracted a few hater comments, but I thought you did a decent job of explaining the risks of this DYI method.
I know the answers may seem obvious but from some peoples comments on the topic elsewhere online they were suggesting products that seemed caustic to the prop shaft finish and I didn't want to risk using something harmful to the metal finish and in turn possibly lead to corrosion related concerns.
I have a 200 hpdi and I noticed water in the lower unit when I was changing the oil. Watched your awesome videos on how to remove the seals. Looks like the shaft seals were leaking, the spring was corroded. I could not remove the carrier with two screwdrivers but used a seal puller from harbor freight which worked great. I placed the hook end under the carrier and tapped it upward with a hammer, alternating sides. The carrier came out with no issues. Do I have to replace the prop shaft seals if I replace the shaft seals? Thank you.
My seal bore is all nicked up and the seals wont go in smooth. What would you use to clean that surface up? I tried to push new seals in but i couldnt get them to sit straight because of the burrs in the bore so now I'm trying to get those seals out again
Is it better to use the fine thread screws or coarse? The screw driver method would be my second choice because I would not want to score a groove in the bore with the flat head. This is a great video cause I have already had a shop tell me they couldn’t disassemble the lower unit to repair a seal because of salt water corrosion. Do you have a video for this type of situation where salt water corrosion is a problem for lower unit repair? Thank you for the video!
Thank you! Yeah, there's lots of options, just some are going to be more expensive and time consuming than others. Here's a few videos that might help you with understanding lower units and what not: th-cam.com/video/DeZOzznogFw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/CNXLhBSDRY4/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/eMP5HqTh1XE/w-d-xo.html
Always great videos, Always very interesting. What is the theory on facing the lip seals out. The Yamaha LU's are prone to lose oil and to getting water in them? I think that's why someone had installed the inner seal with the lip facing the oil and the outer facing the water. Do Mercury's both face out? Just curious what you've seen to work best. I have a VMAX 250 07 I'm getting close to changing seals on. One lower you show has a grease fitting, how often should you grease it and how many shots? Thanks for your insight.....
Great Question. Why the difference in how manufactures approach sealing the prop shaft. The demonstration video the Yamaha method has the seals facing each other. For the Mercury 2 Strokes the seals lips oppose one another with the lip facing inward for the first seal and outward for the outer seal.
Yeah, predrilling always helps, but if you have a great new tip on the screw, it usually digs right into the metal part of the seal. You just have to be really careful lol
Predrilling works, but it put standard drill bits at a real nasty angle towards the sealing surface, because the propshaft gets in the way of the drill chuck. So preferably use extra long drill bits. Note how BAB use a long skrewdriver bit so he can keep the machine above the prop shaft.
Ohh... I may love you. I have water in my lower. I did notice one of the plugs didn’t have a washer. I guess it didn’t click. I ordered seal anyways. May just do them for preventative maintenance
I have a 225 gallon fuel tank and I think it's leaking because I found 50 gallons of gas in my bilge and I think it's on the stern side of the tank half up the side because once it leaked out 50 gallons it stopped and I don't know how I'm going to get it out because the floor is all one some I'm going to cut it and don't know if it's foamed in or not what do you recommend me doing
Ouch, that's rough. What kind of boat is it? Sounds like you're right, we see a lot of thanks that will get a hole in it halfway up the tank. I would start with a pressure test of the tank: th-cam.com/video/NaIkAZZ_Ekw/w-d-xo.html&t= Then after that, depending on what kind of boat it is, if it is the tank, you'll have to eventually cut out the deck and replace the tank :/ you could, for now, just not fill it up the last 50 gallons lol, but it will still slosh around and get some fuel out into the bilge, just watch your bilge pumps and floats because fuel will melt them :( It's probably a 99% chance that the tank is foamed in
Great job showing us these tips. I'd like to try this on my 75 Opti sometime this fall, but can you tell me why this might not work on Mercury lower units? By the way, 2 observations...1. you really need to get yourself a new hammer! 2. I think that prop shaft had a little excessive run-out :) Great video, thanks again!
Thank you! This might work on your Opti, but a lot of Mercs have the prop shaft seals inside and protected by the bearing carrier. th-cam.com/video/YtivxsdwEqY/w-d-xo.html fast forward to 3:30 for the seals :) Hahaha everybody hates my hammer lol yeah, that gear case was trashed, just used it for an example lol Thank you!
Your right i wont be doing this. I just started watching your videos as of last night. Would love to see if . You can work on a boston whaler Montauk (1977). Like replace the floor, or on a honda 90 hp outboard
Awesome! Welcome to the channel :) A 1977 Montauk! Now that's hard to come by down here lol A lot of the glass work that we are going to be doing will show you the basic process of how to do it. You'll probably need a transom in that boat too. Around here everybody buys up those old Boston Whalers and turns them into bully netting boats
@@BornAgainBoating bully netting boats? Sorry brother im new to boating. I bought that boat i mentioned and guess what.... i dont know how to SWIM. LOL.
Haha, that's ok, bully netting is basically where they put the console of the boat in the front of the boat so that they can drive from the bow of the boat. Then you put lights on the front that can be put down into the water and you drive onto the flats at night and that is when the Florida Spiny Lobster get out and walk across the grass. You can take these nets and then driving from the front come across them walking and scoop them up with the net! lol it's all good, just something you'll have to learn how to do :) most people learn quickly, it's just that thing you instinctively do before drowning lol
Shouldn't the seals be installed back to back with the springs opposite each other ? I was taught that one was to keep oil in and the other to keep water out is why they were to be installed that way ?
Dude! I've been doing seals for years and I've never seen it done that way Except for the screw method which I do not like. I've always pulled the Carrier bearing nut out what a pain in the arse. The 2nd method you have I'm gonna be trying from now on
Just bought a boat with a duo prop that leaks at one of both prop seals. What’s the PITA part of pulling the bearing carrier? I have the book coming but books don’t always articulate the reality of the horror.
@@permagrin8742 yo bud your best bet is to take it to a professional. That requires a couple special tools. If you had the bravo 1 or 2 (which is single prop) this video would work. In fact this video will work for any prop shaft seal but duel props
@@dancomarineservices why would it not work on a Volvo dou prop? My rear prop seals are leaking and i have to change them. I was going to pull the carrier but it looks like if i do i have to set the rolling torque and also check the gear lash. Maybe even split the case? Seams like a lot of work. If i could get them out without pulling the bearing carrier I would love that. Plus there is the additional costs of all the carrier seals. Whats your thoughts Danco?
When you perform the compression test, does the gear case oil need to be drained? Does it matter whether the lower is empty? Also, will this work on 2000 Yamaha F100? Thanks! Awesome video!
What size pvc pipe did you use here? I'm resealing a v4 Yamaha and I know it may not be the same size I need but I'm sure it could give me a starting point.
Thanks Aaron! Gonna do this on my 8 hp Yammie. Just pulled water pump housing and bearing plate off of it, had milky gear oil. Glad I looked at it, you should've seen the salt buildup! 😳
I put an o ring between the two seals on my Evinrude 140, but it causes the top seal to stick out above the housing about 1/16. Will it still hold pressure, or should I take the o ring out so the seal sits perfectly flush in the housing? Responses appreciated before I take her out for a test run!
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What pressure you would recommend to pressure test the lower unit of a yamaha ? Dunno if makes a difference or if there are a standart pressure but is a 4.2L 250hp 2014 engine
Yamaha spec is on a F115 is 100KPa which is 14.2 psi. I would have been happy if mine got to 10psi. Aaron says 12psi (my gauge wasn't that accurate so I opted for 10 :-) )
Hahah, everybody has noticed that, I used like three or four different cases, just so you guys could see all of the different ways and things that could happen!
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Enjoyed the video. Now have confidence in a having a go myself.
Mercury Verado 4.8 process.
How about repacking a prop shaft on an inboard boat ?
My favorite method, is the one where I bring it to you, and you do it 😂
I used the drywall screw method ,, I used painters tape around the shaft to protect it and it worked like a champ .. I opted to throw and o ring between the seals just for added piece of mind .. this is an easy driveway fix but ridiculous price at a shop .. thanks man
painters tape ain't going to stop a screw. If you are too close to the shaft the painters tape ain't going to do anything
Nicely done video. Tried method one, could not get the drywall screws to seat into the bearing, even after trying to drill a pilot hole. After over an hour, ended up using a dremel tool to cut into the seal (away from the shaft) and basically tear and pry the seal with a seal puller. Took couple hours and lots of patience, especially the inner seal, but finally prevailed. This job is not for the faint of heart or impatient!
This channel is so well done and perfectly articulated! Great Job BAB!
Thank you!
I might have a blown seal but I have a 2020 75hp mercury. How can you tell which ones this doesn’t work for?
I am not a Marine Technician, but I really enjoy your classes.
That's awesome! Thank you so much! :)
Awesome video. How big is the PVC pipe used to install the seals?
I do the flat screwdriver and use 2 picks . Easy Peasy . just be mindful of the shaft and install seals with the first ones spring pointing in and the second with the spring pointing out back to back with springs opposite each other .
That is not as per Yamaha manual. Both seals should be facing outwards with the spring towards the prop.
Many Thanks for this - just tried the screw driver technique. Wasn't very difficult to just slowly work around and deform the old oil seals in by wedging a small flat head screw driver in between the casing and the oil seal. As Aaron says just be careful not to go anywhere near the prop shaft and orient the screw driver as much as possible so it is not angled towards the outer casing either. Only took about 10 minutes and once the seal is deformed enough it will come out pretty easily (you'll see it start to move).
Problem was though I went a little too deep in places when deforming the lower oil seal. So the screw driver came into contact with the steel bearing housing behind the lower oil seal. So this has left a couple of little nicks in that bearing housing. This potentially opens a gap between it and the new oil seals which I guess will reduce the seal efficiency?
I just removed any sharp edges on those nicks and pressed any deformation out with the screw driver as best I could but just though I'd warn people about this. Particularly as you can actually feel when the screw driver makes contact with that bearing housing. When hitting the screw driver with a hammer it should sound a little dull and soft when you are between the oil seal and the outer casing. When the screw driver makes contact with the steel bearing housing it will feel and sound rock hard. At that point don't give it another couple of taps like I did and you'll be fine.
If you do just make sure you use some gasket sealer as in Aaron advises as even more important and also if there are scratches from the screw driver on the inside of the outer casing.
being in the business for over 30 years
one of my favorite sayings is
" you can have it FAST or you can have it RIGHT "
Or,, we do it fast, good, and cheap. You can have any two. :)
Awesome idea with oring in between seals! I never heard that one.
There was quite a bend in that shaft 😉
The O-ring acts as a spacer hopefully relocating the seal to a spot on the shaft without any scratches or nicks!
Nice job again, to keep Murphy’s from entering, I believe I will use the small flat head screw driver instead of the drywall screw method. Thank you for all you do to help people like myself, that has more time than money. You are awesome my friend, Thanks Robert
I'll be replacing the seals on my 80 Evinrude 15. After watching this video I'm confident I can do it correctly. I think I'll try the drywall screw method first. And, thankyou for stressing how important it is not to scratch the prop shaft!
Last night I gave this a go. I love to analyze the work that I’m going to do. HUGE TIP for everyone that wants to remove everything. I know there’s a proper tool on removing the whole assembly. So I got this idea and it work amazing !. After removing the propeller and the 4 screws or whatever you have. I decided to run a ratchet strap and feed it through the holes. I came back up and tide a knot. I made sure I had a great loop because in between I used a small jack that comes in your vehicles. I jacked it up where I created tension with the loop I created with the ratchet strap. That thing work perfectly and I was able to get the whole assembly. There’s many ways to go about it. Best thing is to not be afraid and do it right.
Nice . I need photos or a sketch to understand though.
Dude!... excellent job on the video. The drywall screw trick was amazing. I understand the risks, and will probably get a puller to help avoid them, but what an option to have when you can't get your hands on a specialized tool like a seal puller. I really enjoyed your thorough explanation of all of the processes. The clear instructions give me hope that I'll be able to replace the seals on a 2004 Honda 90hp that I recently came by. Wish me luck!
Good luck! :) take your time and be careful, you shouldn't have any trouble if you just go slow and pay attention :)
@@BornAgainBoating So I went ahead and pulled the whole bearing carrier. However, I still can't get the prop shaft to come out. What am I missing? Do I need to pull the shift shaft to get the prop shaft to come the rest of the way out? I want to check all the gears and replace the bearings/seals... so that I don't have to worry about this motor when I put it on the water.
The flathead screw driver is good. Less harmful to the prop shaft. Great job.
What o ring tool kit did you have there in that red box. Thanks for the video.
I’ve been swapping new oil into my leaking lower unit every couple of months….but now I will change them….thanks for visual courage
When you clean the shaft at 5:35 to 5:40 it looks as if the prop shaft is bent
It sure does! That thing is trashed!
I love you guys videos , reminds me of old tricks I would have forgotten, God bless
Good tips I will let you know how it goes. For the seal installation would you clarify the direction of the seals. One side of the seal is open, which way should they face on a mercury 97 225 with a 4.75 housing.
Excellent instruction!! Do you believe this job can be done without removing the lower unit from the outboard (1985 Yamaha 40hp)? The outboard would also be mounted to the transom. Or maybe it is a big advantage removing the lower unit that I'm not seeing...
You must do motor repair full time. Best videos. So is the driveshaft seal done the same way? I have Etec 40HP 2011. Im going to tear into the lower unit and want to replace everything where water may intrude as oil is milky. Bought it used and apparently they changed the oil before I bought and snuck this by me. Next time I will know that you take the boat out then check the oil.
At beginning of video you used a pressure test to check lower unit. What kind of tester do you use???
Excellent video thank you - i have a Honda BF15A circa 1995 and will certainly need these tips to change water seal ...thanks
You are welcome!
On a Yamaha F50 I have used 3 6mm high propshaft seals, instead of 2 factory fitted seals. The inner seal remained intact even if outer two were severely damaged by fishing line or braid. worked great.
Carrier would NOT come off; I don’t have a puller. Drywall screw method ROCKED! Your video is so well done, I was confident enough to pull it off. Thanks tons!
You're welcome
If the shaft is damaged, Speedi-sleeves work well. I've used them in hydraulic pump applications. Good video.
Is there a Speedi sleeve for the Yamaha prop shaft?
Oh my oh my what happens when it gives up 20 miles off the coast and blows your gears up? Leaving you bobbing in the water like a cork ? Lol don’t listen to these butchers! This is nothing to play with. People die from mistakes like this!
Thanks bud, I’ll be heading to ALASKA next week, and need to do this! Cheers
Thanks for a great video. My first time changing all the seals. I used the screwdriver and the seal puller. I just took my time, the first one took more time than the second one. Do you have a video of changing the upper shaft seals?
Just did my upper and lower seals. The lower seals I used the dry wall screw trick, worked great! Question tho, in the video it says you can try to flip the seals....why would that work if you just drilled a hole through them?
great video showing different techniques to do this. what size pvc pipe was that you used to press down the seals?
I use the screw method. I notice you said both seals with spring facing up, toward the prop. The manual I bought for my Yamaha shows and says first seal in spring to oil and second seal in spring towards the prop. Is my book wrong? I havnt had any issues but if your way comes from yamaha I'll start doing it that way. I have a 150 and twin 200s and do all my own work.
Excellent channel BTW. Especially like the fiberglass vids
No your book is not wrong. You should always have first seal facing in to hold oil in and second out holding water out.
Thanks always for your hard work putting together the informative videos, great job very much appreciated. So you asked which method do I prefer, the easy answer is the one that works lol. I am working on my twin Mercury 3.0 225's replacing the seals. I started with the starboard OB which has the outer seal installed incorrectly. Attempting to drive a screw in the seal was a no go the screw did not even scratch the seal, so I attempted to drive a self tapping screw, and it just danced on the seal. Time for a pilot hole, not a chance and I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg. to the seal case. Adding a center punch proved to be unhelpful with out a long bit. So I moved to the method of taping along the edge no good. 3rd try is the destruction method yes the destruction method as the seal just was not cooperating. Not sure what was used to install the seal but it seems to be fused to the carrier, and the destruction is all that seems to be happening. HELP! How much heat can be applied safely to the carrier and seal case? Can the seals be pressed out if the carrier is removed, need your help.
" I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg" --> Just get 6mm (1/4") Bar and braze onto end of Drill Bit to make a custom extra long extension. Have done this successfully may times.
I use a modified OMC seal puller that basically screws itself into the seals and has a center bolt to pull the seals out, then an aluminum pipe to install the new seals
Link?
@@theyblike don't remember, I think I got it from omc, then had an extension pipe welded on to work for yamahas
Good and smart tips for changing seals. But isn't it a very crooked shaft, big risk that it shortens the life of the seals? At 5.35
Looking at the closeup of seal, I noticed the grease fitting. How often do you grease the shaft?
Can this method work on replacing the drive shaft oil seals under the water pump?
It amazes me how he never gets any stains on his clothes. That were me, I'd have to throw that shirt away.
Great video!!! Really helpful!!! I was wondering, I have 2000 Honda bf30. Does Honda use both the seals facing out? Thanks!!!
On my yamaha f150 from 2005. there was only one oil seal originaly. First time I noticed water in oil on 2000 hours now it is 17 years old. Is it correct that it has only one rubber seal on prop shaft? Should I put in two seals like in service manual diagram? Thanks
Thanks, drywall screw trick worked great.
I just drained the engine oil on my 2021 Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
Great content! Bought a fancy seal puller slide hammer to be safe and didn’t work so had to resort to the dry wall screw method. Stayed away from the inner shaft however when trying the flat head pry method I went a little to deep and damaged the outside of the carrier bearing lip that the seal sits on.. I believe it’s just there to make space between the seals so it doesn’t sit ontop of the bearing. Do you think I will be alright letting it ride or replace the carrier housing to be safe?
Do that work on a Mercruiser Alpha 2 gear case.
Hi great video just a question i have a 210 Quintrex legend center console boat with a 60 hp Mercury engine i think its a bigfoot its hard to shift in to gear i have taken control cables off and it shifts smoothly so must be at the engine end any ideas i can do to make it change smoother thank you
Hey! Thank you, here is a video that should help a little more in figuring out what is going on:
th-cam.com/video/jHM2eZmlpVY/w-d-xo.html
I prefer as I already have a few months ago, paid a ''technician'' like yourself to do it for me. All of them, every seal possible. I only know how to really wreck stuff, versus change them. (Don't slam your prop into rocks folks...your seals will eventually leak)
Hahhaha that is a great method ;) and advise! lol
I would like to know if this process works for a 2008 Mercury Verado 225 with the 4.8 Torpedo? If not have you done a video of a Mercury Verado lower unit inspection and service with all of the seals replaced. I always inspect my lower unit, only replacing the CARRIER ASSEMBLY Oil Seal annually. This year I want to replace the shift shaft seals, and would like to replace the prop shat seals.
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I'm wondering if you replaced the shaft itself. I noticed at around 5:30 you spun the shaft around and I can see it has a bend to it
I used different cases for the video, that was a junk case with a bent prop shaft lol :) Needed the stuff to make the video ;)
@@BornAgainBoating ha for a minute I thought I was seeing things and had to go back and watch again
How do you remember which way each seal goes in, spring in or out?
I gotta do mine, I think I'll snap a pic on my phone as soon as I take each out
The spring always faces the liquid, gearlube on inside, sea water on outside...easy!
Exactly the video I needed. I see that you've attracted a few hater comments, but I thought you did a decent job of explaining the risks of this DYI method.
I appreciate that!
Can you suggest what to use to clean old grease off of outboard prop shaft splines?
I know the answers may seem obvious but from some peoples comments on the topic elsewhere online they were suggesting products that seemed caustic to the prop shaft finish and I didn't want to risk using something harmful to the metal finish and in turn possibly lead to corrosion related concerns.
I have a 200 hpdi and I noticed water in the lower unit when I was changing the oil. Watched your awesome videos on how to remove the seals. Looks like the shaft seals were leaking, the spring was corroded. I could not remove the carrier with two screwdrivers but used a seal puller from harbor freight which worked great. I placed the hook end under the carrier and tapped it upward with a hammer, alternating sides. The carrier came out with no issues. Do I have to replace the prop shaft seals if I replace the shaft seals? Thank you.
You'll want to run a pressure test and see if the prop shaft seals are leaking, if they aren't then you don't have to mess with them :)
My seal bore is all nicked up and the seals wont go in smooth. What would you use to clean that surface up? I tried to push new seals in but i couldnt get them to sit straight because of the burrs in the bore so now I'm trying to get those seals out again
Do you have any videos of complete lower unit repairs bearings ect on Johnson’s.
Thank you so much for this video!!!!! I used the flat screw driver technique and it worked like a charm!!! Thank you again!!!!!
Awesome!
What's best, 2 factory seals with O-ring in the middle; or 3 factory seals ? Can you do both? Just asking.
Is it better to use the fine thread screws or coarse? The screw driver method would be my second choice because I would not want to score a groove in the bore with the flat head. This is a great video cause I have already had a shop tell me they couldn’t disassemble the lower unit to repair a seal because of salt water corrosion.
Do you have a video for this type of situation where salt water corrosion is a problem for lower unit repair? Thank you for the video!
Thank you! Yeah, there's lots of options, just some are going to be more expensive and time consuming than others. Here's a few videos that might help you with understanding lower units and what not:
th-cam.com/video/DeZOzznogFw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/CNXLhBSDRY4/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/eMP5HqTh1XE/w-d-xo.html
Always great videos, Always very interesting. What is the theory on facing the lip seals out. The Yamaha LU's are prone to lose oil and to getting water in them? I think that's why someone had installed the inner seal with the lip facing the oil and the outer facing the water. Do Mercury's both face out? Just curious what you've seen to work best. I have a VMAX 250 07 I'm getting close to changing seals on.
One lower you show has a grease fitting, how often should you grease it and how many shots?
Thanks for your insight.....
Great Question. Why the difference in how manufactures approach sealing the prop shaft. The demonstration video the Yamaha method has the seals facing each other. For the Mercury 2 Strokes the seals lips oppose one another with the lip facing inward for the first seal and outward for the outer seal.
All I can say: Your videos are awesome! Thanks for doing them.
Wow, thank you!
I have used the screw method on my alpha one lower unit. Worked great!
can this be done on a alpha 1 gen 2 ? can i pull out seals without removing the carrier ?
@@TheOne4Wisdom Yes.
Would a pilot hole and some lubricant work before you use the Sheetrock screws to pull the seal?
Yeah, predrilling always helps, but if you have a great new tip on the screw, it usually digs right into the metal part of the seal. You just have to be really careful lol
Predrilling works, but it put standard drill bits at a real nasty angle towards the sealing surface, because the propshaft gets in the way of the drill chuck. So preferably use extra long drill bits. Note how BAB use a long skrewdriver bit so he can keep the machine above the prop shaft.
Well done. I was afraid I would need to do this, however water in my lower unit was caused by a missing washer on one of the drain screws.
That'll do it 4 sure
Ohh... I may love you. I have water in my lower. I did notice one of the plugs didn’t have a washer. I guess it didn’t click. I ordered seal anyways. May just do them for preventative maintenance
I noticed a grease fitting which I’m thinking is for the shaft. How often do you grease it?
New to outboards from a straight inboard.
Do you know what size o-ring you use? 3mm thickness or 4 mm thickness? The shaft on my Suzuki 22 mm. So do I use 22 mm x 3 mm or 22 mm x 4 mm ?
No idea, I just pull one from the universal o-ring kit lol: amzn.to/4cPdwQj
Hi, the screw method will works on mercury seals that the seals are in aluminum? Thanks !
Here it is! Technician’s Tuesday!
Yeah buddy!
your videos are always top-notch knowledge thanks hopefully this will save me a few hundred bucks
Thanks Man.
Clear and concise, very well done
I have a 225 gallon fuel tank and I think it's leaking because I found 50 gallons of gas in my bilge and I think it's on the stern side of the tank half up the side because once it leaked out 50 gallons it stopped and I don't know how I'm going to get it out because the floor is all one some I'm going to cut it and don't know if it's foamed in or not what do you recommend me doing
Ouch, that's rough. What kind of boat is it? Sounds like you're right, we see a lot of thanks that will get a hole in it halfway up the tank. I would start with a pressure test of the tank: th-cam.com/video/NaIkAZZ_Ekw/w-d-xo.html&t= Then after that, depending on what kind of boat it is, if it is the tank, you'll have to eventually cut out the deck and replace the tank :/ you could, for now, just not fill it up the last 50 gallons lol, but it will still slosh around and get some fuel out into the bilge, just watch your bilge pumps and floats because fuel will melt them :( It's probably a 99% chance that the tank is foamed in
Great job showing us these tips. I'd like to try this on my 75 Opti sometime this fall, but can you tell me why this might not work on Mercury lower units? By the way, 2 observations...1. you really need to get yourself a new hammer! 2. I think that prop shaft had a little excessive run-out :) Great video, thanks again!
Thank you! This might work on your Opti, but a lot of Mercs have the prop shaft seals inside and protected by the bearing carrier. th-cam.com/video/YtivxsdwEqY/w-d-xo.html fast forward to 3:30 for the seals :) Hahaha everybody hates my hammer lol yeah, that gear case was trashed, just used it for an example lol Thank you!
@@BornAgainBoating good
to hear I was gonna say the propshaft is bent
Will this work with a 250 Pro XX. I have a Verado lower unit on it with the model number of 880686A43? Great video by the way!
What do you think?
Like the screwdriver method with the seal puller
Thank u for all ur videos thy had taught me alot just got me a pair of Johnson 150 outboards
What size pvc pipe diameter did you use to install back on
Pretty sure it is 1 1/4 pipe, for the V-8 you need the same pipe but with the flanged edge
great video thank you. Any idea the size/diameter of the pic pipe?
I think its a 1 and a 1/14
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks!
Your right i wont be doing this. I just started watching your videos as of last night. Would love to see if . You can work on a boston whaler Montauk (1977). Like replace the floor, or on a honda 90 hp outboard
Awesome! Welcome to the channel :) A 1977 Montauk! Now that's hard to come by down here lol A lot of the glass work that we are going to be doing will show you the basic process of how to do it. You'll probably need a transom in that boat too. Around here everybody buys up those old Boston Whalers and turns them into bully netting boats
@@BornAgainBoating bully netting boats? Sorry brother im new to boating. I bought that boat i mentioned and guess what.... i dont know how to SWIM. LOL.
Haha, that's ok, bully netting is basically where they put the console of the boat in the front of the boat so that they can drive from the bow of the boat. Then you put lights on the front that can be put down into the water and you drive onto the flats at night and that is when the Florida Spiny Lobster get out and walk across the grass. You can take these nets and then driving from the front come across them walking and scoop them up with the net! lol it's all good, just something you'll have to learn how to do :) most people learn quickly, it's just that thing you instinctively do before drowning lol
Do you know if the screw method works on a '95 Mercury 175xri? Or if it won't work, which bearing carrier removal tool I need for this lower unit?
A packing puller may be a very good tool for this.
Shouldn't the seals be installed back to back with the springs opposite each other ? I was taught that one was to keep oil in and the other to keep water out is why they were to be installed that way ?
Dude! I've been doing seals for years and I've never seen it done that way Except for the screw method which I do not like. I've always pulled the Carrier bearing nut out what a pain in the arse. The 2nd method you have I'm gonna be trying from now on
Just bought a boat with a duo prop that leaks at one of both prop seals. What’s the PITA part of pulling the bearing carrier? I have the book coming but books don’t always articulate the reality of the horror.
@@permagrin8742 yo bud your best bet is to take it to a professional. That requires a couple special tools. If you had the bravo 1 or 2 (which is single prop) this video would work. In fact this video will work for any prop shaft seal but duel props
I'm Assuming you have a Bravo 3 that's the most common dual prop. Volvo has a dp too
@@dancomarineservices why would it not work on a Volvo dou prop? My rear prop seals are leaking and i have to change them. I was going to pull the carrier but it looks like if i do i have to set the rolling torque and also check the gear lash. Maybe even split the case? Seams like a lot of work. If i could get them out without pulling the bearing carrier I would love that. Plus there is the additional costs of all the carrier seals. Whats your thoughts Danco?
Like the drywall screws. Did that on my front cam shaft seal on a Toyota van .
Brilliant no nonsense video, very helpful, thanks 👍
Glad you liked it!
When you perform the compression test, does the gear case oil need to be drained? Does it matter whether the lower is empty? Also, will this work on 2000 Yamaha F100? Thanks! Awesome video!
No, you drain all the gear oil when you do the pressure test.
I have a mercury 115 EFI 4 stroke what propeller do you recommend
What size pvc pipe did you use here? I'm resealing a v4 Yamaha and I know it may not be the same size I need but I'm sure it could give me a starting point.
Looks like about 1”
Thanks! I'm working on my foot now.
Best to replace prop shaft seal every so many years or wait for failure?
Thanks Aaron! Gonna do this on my 8 hp Yammie. Just pulled water pump housing and bearing plate off of it, had milky gear oil. Glad I looked at it, you should've seen the salt buildup! 😳
Lol yeah they can get bad :)
Is it the 2 stroke one I might have to do this
hi i have a 2007 etec 250, would u mind telling me what size Oring will be good for it?
I put an o ring between the two seals on my Evinrude 140, but it causes the top seal to stick out above the housing about 1/16. Will it still hold pressure, or should I take the o ring out so the seal sits perfectly flush in the housing? Responses appreciated before I take her out for a test run!
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To repair a damaged seal area on the shaft I have used a speedy sleeve with success to restore the shaft where the seal runs.
Hi! Nice video. Will this be possible on a Volvo Penta 290 SP?
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do you know what size is the yamaha f40 propeller nut?
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How often do you inspect the prop shaft for foreign things wrapped around the prop shaft and re-grease the prop shaft?
At least once a year, usually on every service.
Will this method work on old Mercury Two strokes? Elpto 90?
Working on a 03 150 saltwater xl, the seals for this mercury needs to be place back to back correct?
What size pvc for a 115 Yamaha
What size gasket do I buy for the third gasket if my prop shaft is scratched??
What pressure you would recommend to pressure test the lower unit of a yamaha ? Dunno if makes a difference or if there are a standart pressure but is a 4.2L 250hp 2014 engine
Not much of a difference. I pressure test them to around 12 PSI and if it holds that your good to go.
Yamaha spec is on a F115 is 100KPa which is 14.2 psi. I would have been happy if mine got to 10psi. Aaron says 12psi (my gauge wasn't that accurate so I opted for 10 :-) )
I noticed you used a bent shaft to demo on.
Hahah, everybody has noticed that, I used like three or four different cases, just so you guys could see all of the different ways and things that could happen!
Dina Caldwell I was thinking that when he rotated the one bent shaft. “Man that’s never going to seal up”. Lol