Excellent work !!!!! The entire trick to this repair was getting that part out!!!! With your Aussie Engineered puller and the judicious use of heat you saved an old part. With a bit of clean up, sanding, a little paint and elbow grease the old parts can be remanufactured and used again saving money or making money. Hats off!!! Good on ya mate a beauty of mechanical expertise!!!!!! I don’t know half of your tricks thanks so much for sharing!!!!!! I had one job that leaked by the outside of the seal!!!!! I removed both seals and cleaned and sanded the surface that held the seals. After through cleaning I put 5200 on the outside of the seal and the mating surface. I see if that keeps water out!
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1998 Johnson 150. Same as your Evinrude, different name on the cover. After it started dripping gear lube, I found a ball of fishing line had ruined the oil seal. Your video was my step by step guide. Mine came apart easily. No heat needed. Cheers from Iowa!
new old ain't bad. that thing will last for years . thanks for sharing and caring enough to do these vid. I'm new to boats so because of you and that old mill I have a killer boat that runs great just as fast as my buddies 70.000 dollar rig. and I'm in at 7200 dollars. fawking loving it. thanks again.
I was really please to have them interested in sponsoring the channel because they are a great company. It's not hard to support someone doing something so relevant so well. I'm going to do a vid soon on those parts diagrams as even if you don't need to buy something they are a great source of information.
I recently did my etec 200hp bearing carrier and purchased the kit from same company. all my o rings seals and bolts came with it. put new anode in. good company
Nice one, I do like those complete kits when it comes to doing a job like this, in hindsight I really should have looked for something like that. I was certainly pleased with the delivery of the parts I did order though.
I ordered parts from Florida and Taren Point on the same day - same session on the computer even. The Taren point place (NSW) even listed the parts as 'in stock'. The parts from Florida arrived 2 days earlier than the Taren Point parts - so I wonder if 'in stock' means some one , some where, has them in stock and will order them for you, add a mark up and make you wait a few more days for them? The parts from Florida took 5 days to get to me. The local dealers just have to wake up that the only benefit they can offer is same day or walk in sales delivery - they can almost never beat on line for price - and that is from shop front places as well. The Australian retail dealers really need to lift their game - delivery time is their only competitive edge now days. And Amazon is nearly here which will only make things tighter- even though they only stock a small percentage of what they list as available.
This was another great video in your Evinrude series Stu. I now wouldn't think twice to pull that carrier out and replace the seals if they were leaky. You've shown it's not a bad job with the right tools and a little patience!
Hey Jack, yeah, it goes pretty smoothly with a decent puller and a bit of heat. It's also pretty simple going back together which is always nice. I had to pull a tiller steer throttle / gear selector off a little outboard yesterday and I've never seen so many linkages and springs! :O
I have a 1993 Johnson 150. I was changing the lower unit oil and a lot of water came out. I just got all my seals in the mail today waiting on the. Can’t wait to try this job myself. I know I’ll save a lot of money…..
Those locking tabs are so much superior in design to the threaded bearing carrier retainer rings on Mercury and other gearcases. Not only do they require a special tool, but they seize most of the time. Would love to see a video on that style bearing carrier job someday. Great work as always, cheers!
Hey Louis, yes, those threaded carrier are really hard to get undone, and that is even with the specialist tool that most of us don't have. Will do a video on them one day.
Thanks for all your videos, been using them to help me replace all the seals on my lower unit, my bearing housing was such an ass to get out ha, but got it out with all your tips cheers!! keep up the great work!!
Stu, As once was told to me, Files are like hacksaw blades, the teeth can only cut metal on the push stroke, also, lift off the pressure on the teeth on the return stroke to maximise the working life of the tool.
A nice touch that Tequila Bottle ! Awesome videos you do so helpful with my outboard problems. Much appreciated and remember there is always 12 drops left in the bottle !
Dear stu, i pulled the bearing carriage out same same, our lower leg locked up, our reverse gear is stuck in that removed housing, from your video i can now tell fishing line probably killed this end of bearings oil/water fail. Vgood
Here's a little tip for ya, Those seals will start easier and straighter and go in easier if you put the seals them selves into a freezer for 30 minutes and heat up lightly or warm the carrier where the seals sit just a little.
keep up the good work Stu. marineengine.com is a great sponsor and they always have an answer on where to source parts if they don't have them in stock. CDI is another great company for electronics for older Evinrudes you may want to talk to them as well. Got my shirt a few weeks ago. Waiting to send the pic when I have the runabout completed. Thanks to your videos, I've managed to save over a thousand dollars USD in labor costs and I've learned a great deal about my 4 Evinrude motors. 1959 Gale 35, 1976 Evinrude 35, 1976 Evinrude 40, 1973 Evinrude 65 Short Shaft. Thanks again...
You're welcome Michael, glad to hear the videos have been helping you save some money. I have noticed that MarineEngine.com also have a great amount of information as well as products which can sometimes be just as valuable. Looking forward to putting your picture up on the board!
If I remember correctly you replace the stainless steel spring With the rubber O-ring when you first started working on this engine just to see if it works before you want to stick more money into it
Yeah, somebody else mentioned that I still don't have any memory of doing it, but it certainly sounds like something I would have done. Oh well, time to do it properly! :)
That o-ring you took out was you who put there! Saw a year old vid when u put it there and said it was just to start it and you were going to fix it later
nice tool but adding the longer all thread bolts was cool too. update on my merc. all done less putting it the lake. Haven't bought the tabs or boat license yet. my hydroboost on my truck was leaking so replaced it and now getting ready to go on vacation down on the coast. will get the boat done when we get back for summer and crabbing season.
I hope MarineEngine.com sponsors the channel. If you can reference things they sell for projects, tools ect, I will definitely buy stuff from them. Also, I appreciate the Tequila bottle on the workbench, maybe they can sponsor too?
Thanks, looking forward to the shift shaft seal video. Would love to see anything on the 9.9-15hp Johnson some day. We have a lot of older ones still on the water here in the States. They're tortured has trolling motors for Trout, Kokanee and Striped bass. You have to learn how to work on your own motor because they're just not worth the cost of a shop/mechanic.
That shift shaft video should be in a couple of weeks, stay tuned. I know what you mean about needing to work on your own motors once they get a bit old, it can get really expensive fast otherwise.
Nice set-up arrangement with the puller. Hopefully that will work for other projects, too, after getting it assembled for this one. As for Pajero, I had never heard of Pajero prior to watching this video, so I had to look it up. It's the Spanish word for Pampas cat, but it also has a somewhat less fanciful use as a derogatory term, roughly translated to "wanker". In North America, Mitsubishi decided to call that car the Montero, and in the UK, they call it the Shogun. But enough about it, this isn't the History of Cars channel :)
Yes, it's always nice to get future use out of tools you make up. I might not use it again for a while so I should probably label it so I don't forget what it is for! Sounds like Mitsubishi did a better job on picking a name for the rest of the world!
I was told by a colleague in the early 90's of spanish decent as to the true meaning of Pajero (Paheero as she pronounced it) thought she may have been pulling my chain....oops !! nice vid Stu
Hehe i watched the complete series, fun to see about the o-ring on about 9:35 . You actually placed it there by yourself in one of the first episode's heheh :P . Anyway i wouldnt remember too after a year heheh. Awesome project and alot too learn from!
Great video mate.We have a few Pajero's at work but they're not in the car park.They seem to come from the office area.With the way your channels going you'll be the Etcg (Eric the car guy)of boating soon.Just hope you don't wreck the channel with sponsorship adds like he did.Keep it up and ask coopers for sponsorship too as they make a fortune from you.lol.
Thanks mate, it will be interesting to see how things go in the future. Next month the sponsorship with MarineEngine.com begins but we had a great chat before agreeing to work together about how channels can really go downhill once they turn into a series of infomercials so there won't be any reviews of products or anything like that. The great thing is that they are such a natural fit for what this channel is about that I'm expecting it to add a lot rather than taking away.
Let's hope so.I watch/use to watch plenty of channels and they eventually all divert away from the channels original roots chasing the mighty dollar which really spoils it for me.I know that there can be some serious money made if you have a good channel,but all the bullsuit reviews that they suck people in with along with the host getting to big for their boots really puts me off. Anyway ,I just find you so easy to watch and down to earth with some good videos to help others out that I hope it continues into the future. Cheers.
I've found that the best way to clean mating metal surfaces in hard to get to places - before applying the gasket - is a dremel rotary tool with wire brushes. wear eye protection as the fine wire brush spins off bristles at very high speed.
The clock, no ones mentioned the clock! I hope that Pajero is not on LPG - that V6 is known to burn up valve seats if duel fuelled. Otherwise not a bad mild off roader . Mind you the 2.8 diesel is a slug, but wont stop until you do something really silly. Good timing, did my winter shutdown service, lower unit has cream coloured oil coming out so I am into the lower seals job too! That Evinrude is certainly turning into a 'grandpa's axe' job as the other have commented. :-)
When you replaced the internal seal, Did you press it up to the end? I’m asking because there is room enough and I’m wondering if I should level it with the outside border or press up to the end to seat all the way down. Thanks
Forgot to mention the engine with the broken exhaust valve, its a 2007 115hp Evinrude Etec. Been a great engine with a few set backs - fly wheel magnets the biggest issue - lost 10 of 18. Found some at local Evinrude dealer and glued it back together :)
Hi , Thanks for all your help and tips. May l suggest a variety of sizes in short lengths of new exhaust pipe pieces, they fit the seals size ok and are thin enough to clear the working lip of the seal, for specific sst jobs l weld a piece of 1" x 1/4" flat accross the top of my tubes so as l can see inside while driving the seal in and l can rotate the tube to tap exactly where l need. Cheers Plussy.
I haven't kept up but am wondering if you pressure/vacuum tested before disassembly to pinpoint the actual leaks...I know it is impossible to have all the correct installer tools, and that you were very careful, but using a punch to drive the seal in is a risky procedure. I know how it is about "that one missing new part", always happens to us. But, you are absolutely correct, that outer oring doesn't seal the innards of the gearcase, so there is no problem reusing the old one. Wish you had the new anode though.
Hi mate. I didn't pressure test the gearbox mainly because I knew the prop seal wasn't great, I wanted to do the gear selector o-rings to make selection a little smoother and since I was going to be doing the water pump it isn't such a big deal to do the final seal while I am there. I know what you mean about punches being a bit risky, but I find that if I pick one from the set that is the entire width of the flat part it doesn't distort it like it might if it was a finer point punch. One day I should look around and see if I can find a full set of different sized seal installers. Yes, a new anode would be nice but I'm not sure where the parts would stop, not to mention the delay in ordering them. I'd never get a video finished! ;)
I hear ya for sure...I know you were careful with the punch, just mentioned it because I want to caution the viewers to be aware of the pitfalls of using a punch and encourage the use of the correct installer tools...That shift rod bushing/oring seal is a strange design, and does tend to bind the shift rod when corrosion builds up in that cavity, so you are wise in cleaning up that part and replacing the orings.Please be sure to pressure and vacuum test carefully once you are done, and coat the driveshaft splines with the OMC moly lube to minimize rust/corrosion that tends to rust/seize/damage these splines....
9:58 is what I was doing when I cracked the bearing carrier lip where the seal is- Don’t do what I did... put a piece of wood or something between the tool and the cast metal surface of the carrier housing
Hi, Love all that you present in your vids. I have a particular issue that I found while re sealing my prop seals. I removed the seal carrier and found a piece of the starboard exhaust valve (happened to have the part # on it). Boats in storage now (Maine) but studying up on what I'm in for come spring. Most have me removing the powerhead to gain access to the exhaust valves while I found a gent on the web, Jon Zero who sounds like he's Australian, who seems to indicate you can remove the mid section without pulling the powerhead. Looking for some guidance, if possible. Maybe an Etec powerhead removal vid topic or one to show access to these buried exhaust valves. Thanks and hope you have a good summer! Rich
I'm this far, but I need to take out the prop shaft and I can't get it out. Am I missing something? I noticed you didn't remove it in your video. Please help! Thanks!
When you replaced the prop shaft oil seal, did you sit the seal all of the way down flush against the bearing or did you leave a gap? I have the single rubber seal. TIA
Did you put the new prop shaft seal all the way down to touch the bearing? Doing mine now but forgot to look where the old one was before I took it out
Thank you for your video. Tried redoing seals, prop shaft seal still leaks. I have prop shaft carrier(part 332139). I am not sure I used correct seals and can't find for sure correct ones. Can you point me in the correct direction? Thank you
I noticed that you used a small diameter punch in setting the seal? What I do is prep everything as you have with this but as an addition..... Put the seal in the freezer. When ready to fit it poor a bucket of boiling water over the carrier or boil it up like a crabfest in the cooker. Just a bath is good. Yes it is hot. place seal in place and use the socket to start it square........if you are fast enough hand/finger force is all that is required to bottom out seal. Use lubricant on seal before freezer. Cheers C.I.
Yep, that can be a good way to go. We have a freezer pull of leaf spring bushing at the moment because they are really hard to get in other wise. There is no doubt it can also be a bit safer as you need to be really careful with a punch not to damage the seal on the way in.
I see others putting gasket sealer (non hardening) on the o-rings of the bearing carrier. I have never put anything on o-rings but grease or oil like you did. What are your thoughts on the extra sealing with the gasket sealer?
It's probably not really going to hurt, but they should seal well with only grease. The hardest part is getting the bearing carrier out again down the track so I wouldn't be a fan of putting anything in there that would make removal more difficult in a few years time.
thanks for these interesting videos. could you provide some help to people away from US? I have a johnson seahorse 25 hp outboard of 1980 rope start. it is equipped with a flywheel of 74 tooth. I would like to upgrade it to a electric starter. I am confused with the starters available in the market as they have 9, 10 and 11 tooth pinions. how to solve this technical problem. what pinion fits the 74 tooth flywheel?
I hope so given I live in Australia! I'm not sure which one it would take. I normally just order the starter specified for the model of outboard. I would recommend jump onto MarineEngine.com here and finding your model to see what they specify www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=25
Pajero is a cat I know, but I also know that it is not a good choice in Spanish countries. I think down under, Pajero might be best translated to English as "Wanker" ;-) Ever wonder why the Chevy Nova didn't sell well in Spanish countries? No Va means "No Go" . Seems we never learned our lessons.
Can I use a gear case from a V4 115hp in a V6 150 e-Tec? I need to use Just the case from the V4 115hp. The inner parts will be replaced by new parts for the V6 150 e-Tec. Thanks for helping!
Well this video is right on time. Finally launched my boat after a 2yr resto. The boat is great, my 99 Johnson/Evinrude 150 had 3 issues...but sure ran good in spite of those issues. First issue was she had a sort of metal rattle sound which sounded like it was coming from the lower unit and not from under the cowling......second issue was a odd shutter right above trolling speed but would plane out beautifully.........third issue was discovered today before my second sea trial, water intrusion in the lower unit. Note that when I drained the lower unit during the resto it had water in it, I drained it completely and re filled with the good OEM stuff. After one short run I had milky fluid that smelled burnt :( . After watching your video I think I can pull this repair off. Any ideas about the metal rattling sound? Also note...when I refilled the lower unit oil I did not use new nylon washers on the LU screws but hard to believe they could be the culprits. The videos are great....keep em coming. ps....I have also made purchases from your new vendor and the experience was very very good.
Hi Jim, glad your restoration is progressing well. Replacing the gearbox seals will solve your water intrusion problem for sure, it is rarely the washers on the drain and fill plugs. I have heard a gearbox make a noise like you mentioned just from the propeller not being on properly. Is there any play in the propshaft when you have the propeller off? The odd shudder just above idling speed could be a bit of a carburettor blockage. Were they cleaned out as a part of restoration?
Thanks for the reply Stu......I put the prop on myself and was pretty sure I put it on correctly :) ....I will remove prop and check for play. I am about to watch your video again as I have been studying my OEM shop manual and it is far more confusing then your vid was. They talk about removing gears and such.....Im not doing that but I do think i can follow your vid and change all the seals. I only ran the boat for about 30 min with new OEM lower unit oil in it and the water was already in the oil....and of course it had that burnt smell to it. I did not clean the carbs during resto....the resto was mainly the boat...i bought the engine used....but it was running like a champ when i bought it. I learned a valuable lesson though. Never buy an engine without seeing it under load on a sea trial. Always check the lower unit oil. I did do a compression check but did not do the other things. I will order the water pump kit from your sponsor tonight.
I have an Evinrude 40 & I was going in forward & threw it in reverse & it shut off. Now when I try to start it all it do is click. What do you think the problem is?
Take the spark plugs out and see if the motor turns by hand. Sometimes when motors go into reverse at speed they can ingest water. It sounds like it is either a starter motor problem or the motor or gearbox is seized.
I just drained the engine oil on my Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
Hi. Do you think it's safe to clamp down a 50 Hp Tohatsu on the lower unit stand if i weld it to a sturdy base with casters? I need to service the parts that let the outboard engine swing side to side. I have a bad case of rust going on here on my old Tohatsu and i was hoping to clean up the parts giving me a few more seasons out of it before i scrap it. I know i can make the stand strong enough. What i'm more unsure of is how much the lower unit takes of load before something snaps off.
Hmmm, that's a good question. There is a fair bit of weight in a 50HP so I'd be careful. I'd be more inclined to hang it from it's lifting eye on the top of the motor then put the lower unit in your stand to hold it still.
Dangar Marine the problem I'm having is when in the water the reverse slips and grinds but out of the water it does fine. I even disconnected the shift cable just to see if the problem was in the cable but it still grinds when holding it manually in reverse. When I had it in reverse manually if I let of pressure on the lever it would jump back into neutral position but in forwards position it locked in and I could let go of the lever and it stays in forwards do you think the dog clutch is the problem? Thanks very much appreciated.
How do you get the prop shaft all the way out to straighten it? I bought a boat/motor with one that is slightly bent and would like to service it this winter. The seals themselves look easy.
Probably already posted, but according to Wikipedia, the Mitsubishi Pajero: It was named after Leopardus pajeros, the Pampas cat, which is native to the Patagonia plateau region of southern Argentina.[3] But pajero in Spanish is also a common term of abuse, usually translated as "wanker" or "tosser", thus perhaps why alternative names have been used for many markets. It is known as the Mitsubishi Montero (meaning "mountain hunter"[4]) in the Americas (except Brazil and Jamaica), and Spain, while in the United Kingdom it is known as the Mitsubishi Shogun. RichE
Funny, that puller you usec is the same tool ford says you have to special order to remove the tortion bar suspension setup.. except theres a u bolt instead of the 2 rods.. used like a spring compressor...
Hey Stu.....I cant find the vid when you removed the lower unit....which one was that please? Most of it is self explanatory I guess...but I need to know about disconnecting the gear selecter....or if shifter should be in forward.....or whatever the tricks are......thanks
Thanks Stu.......Now I am really confused. I watched another persons video.....he was working on an older Evinrude but the prop shaft seal was 2 pieces...an inner and an outer and so were the drive shaft seals. And now that I have seen that...studying my shop manual it shows 2 opposing seals one facing in and one facing out....before I didnt know what that diagram was trying to say but now I understand. I will have to watch your vid again but I think your prop shaft seal and drive shaft seal were just one piece. Could this be the modern updated version of the seal??????
To be honest, this Evinrude is the first outboard I've seen that only has a single seal. Having said that, it is a double seal, but it really does vary from outboard to outboard.
Im putting in the hours studying these damn parts lists right now...the seal you used was 341281...the seals my part list says to use for my 99 PX model is 334950 two needed for assembly facing back to back. They have metal outer edges and call for gasket sealant on them. Yours is a 97...mine is a 99.....and I have a 98 parts motor that tonight using your instructions I dropped the lower unit. Pretty easy to do...but removing the carb seems like a bad design...but sure enough it gave me the room I needed. I am going to pressure test my parts motor lower unit before i attempt to remove the bearing carrier. I made a lower unit stand tonight and it is ready to go. Sure wish I could post pics here to show off my stand. Your videos are a huge help....and save me a lot of money.......so a BIG THANK YOU to you sir!!!!
Hello. I have a evinrude 150 hp 2002 mod . I got som Vabration I 2000 rpm spesieli . Do you now witch bearing can be brooken in the gearhousing . Or wath may be the problem . Best Regards Morten . From Norway 😊
I lost all thrust on my Evinrude 150 on Sunday. Engine runs just fine and cables are still connected and move freely but still no propulsion. What are your thoughts on steps to diagnose? It's a 1998 2 stroke
Hey Stu, thank you for all the great help in your videos. I have an 86 mercury 9.9 2 stroke tiller handle. What generally causes a lack of "feedback" when you shift from neutral to forward? There's a distinct "click" felt when you shift from neutral to reverse or reverse to neutral but when shifting from neutral to forward it almost feels like you just continue from neutral on into forward and then start opening up the throttle. The shift rod and linkage up into the top all look good. This "issue" started after I removed the lower unit to do some inspecting (old motor I inherited, no idea on maintenance schedule). It still shifts correctly into each gear but the "mush" felt when going into forward bothers me (since it didn't happen before). I have checked the throttle and shift ball linkages for length per the service manual and adjusted those to their specified lengths (4 7/8 inches). Adjusting the 2 nuts on the throttle cable and taking out what tiny slack there was also doesn't seem to have helped.
I have a 1991 Evinrude 150 Intruder Spitfire series. Will this be an issue I should be worried about? We've replaced the entire lower unit already and I don't want to do it again.
am I right did I see you fir the new oil seal dry! I did not see you grease it when it was fitted, is no grease was put on it,, how long will it last before it burn's out? second's?
ok, here's a good-un that I was told to try out if your outboard engine is not pumping water very well!,, it could be that the pump impeller is worn out, but it could also be just salt crystals that have built up inside your engine's water ways, thereby blocking them up some what slowing the flow of water through the engine!,, so here's the trick,, you get a big tub that your engine will fit into so you can run it up inside the tub if it were to be filled with water, but instead of water you fill the tub with ""vinegar!"" and run the engine for a few hours in that vinegar, and that should dissolve all the salt crystals from deep inside the engine and the engine's water pump will flush them out, however after running the engine in vinegar you will need to flush the engine out with clean water, I have never tried this trick out as yet, but the guy that told me this trick,,, did eat lots of pickled unions!,, he also never told me if you had to use white vinegar or brown vinegar,, and with or without unions in it!,, but I would say that after use,, you don't put it on your chip's!,, what is your thinking about this as vinegar dose remove salt "gunk" of lots of thing's,, great video's keep them coming! from a ""free Britain now out of the dominating EU!"
Good video as usual. I have a question about that Yamaha 20 or 25 long shaft in the background on the stand. What is the purpose of that little fin on the leg, ABOVE the joint between the lower unit/leg??? I have the same engine, and that fin is never in the water (cavitation plate is inline with keel) and have asked many people why it is there, nobody seems to know. Maybe someone here will know.... I see no purpose of it being there.
A good question, but unfortunately I don't know the real answer either. By guesses are that it either reduces salt water spraying up towards the head of the outboard, provides some form of dimensional strength to the leg or just looks cool. Which I could tell you for sure!
Dangar Marine I find it does just the opposite...lol Seems like the water comes up and hits it and drives it towards the transom...then up in the air. Bugs the crap out of me...thanks for the reply.
Question for you Stu...when installing the prop shaft bearing carrier u just hit with a piece of wood...but how did u know when to stop? Wouldnt the reverse gear jam into the clutch dog??? With my 1999 the reverse gear came out with the bearing carrier. So I have no idea how to re seat it......thanks! Jim
The bearing carrier will hit a stop so you don't have to worry about it going in too far. The reverse gear will always come out with the bearing carrier, only the forward gear will remain in the gearbox.
Thanks Stu....I actually got it installed yesterday ironically. But yes just like your video I tapped with a piece of wood until I felt it bottom out. Your video really helped me with my question about how far but I didnt catch the answer til I watched the vid for about the 10th time.....the indentations for the locking tabs inside the carrier is what I didnt know about......Once I heard u talk about that everything made sense. I sure hope this thing is water tight! Thanks for all of your efforts!!!! What ever happened to the 150? How is the old girl?
Stu, Want to Thank you for all your excellent vids very informative. I have a 1984 Evinrude 150 hp E150ancrs (75 yr anniversary model). I have been experiencing a problem - when I shift throttle into forward she goes fine at low speed, when I open throttle to get on plane she starts to accelerate for a second and then I lose propulsion and she races. Shop that formerly handled evinrude (and all her prior maintenance and repair) told me just that : probably prop shaft seal. they no longer do evinrude. So do you think that is my problem and is it something to tackle by myself? thanks
okay I took my boat out this weekend I feel heavy.. I noticed an oil leak between the hose between the block and the carburetor.. I have a Mercruiser 470 engine thanks
If it is the 1/2" hose from the rocker cover to the air filter then a new hose and clamps would be about all you need. That is the crank case ventilation air line and basically allows all the vapours given off from the oil to go into the cylinders to be burnt and out the exhaust pipe rather than venting all over your engine space and becoming a fire hazard, and a gigantic mess as well. Leaking oil from that pipe indicates the clamps are a bit loose (but they don't have to be very tight as the hose doesn't carry any pressure) or the hose is rotting out. 10 minute fix either way.
Excellent work !!!!! The entire trick to this repair was getting that part out!!!! With your Aussie Engineered puller and the judicious use of heat you saved an old part. With a bit of clean up, sanding, a little paint and elbow grease the old parts can be remanufactured and used again saving money or making money. Hats off!!! Good on ya mate a beauty of mechanical expertise!!!!!!
I don’t know half of your tricks thanks so much for sharing!!!!!!
I had one job that leaked by the outside of the seal!!!!! I removed both seals and cleaned and sanded the surface that held the seals. After through cleaning I put 5200 on the outside of the seal and the mating surface. I see if that keeps water out!
Thanks Thomas, glad you enjoyed the vid. :)
Thanks for the great video. I have a 1998 Johnson 150. Same as your Evinrude, different name on the cover. After it started dripping gear lube, I found a ball of fishing line had ruined the oil seal. Your video was my step by step guide. Mine came apart easily. No heat needed. Cheers from Iowa!
new old ain't bad. that thing will last for years . thanks for sharing and caring enough to do these vid. I'm new to boats so because of you and that old mill I have a killer boat that runs great just as fast as my buddies 70.000 dollar rig. and I'm in at 7200 dollars. fawking loving it. thanks again.
You're welcome mate, glad to hear your boat is running well and you are enjoying your time on the water. :)
MarineEngine is fantastic. Their parts lists and diagrams are a lifesaver.
I was really please to have them interested in sponsoring the channel because they are a great company. It's not hard to support someone doing something so relevant so well. I'm going to do a vid soon on those parts diagrams as even if you don't need to buy something they are a great source of information.
I recently did my etec 200hp bearing carrier and purchased the kit from same company. all my o rings seals and bolts came with it. put new anode in. good company
Nice one, I do like those complete kits when it comes to doing a job like this, in hindsight I really should have looked for something like that. I was certainly pleased with the delivery of the parts I did order though.
I ordered parts from Florida and Taren Point on the same day - same session on the computer even. The Taren point place (NSW) even listed the parts as 'in stock'. The parts from Florida arrived 2 days earlier than the Taren Point parts - so I wonder if 'in stock' means some one , some where, has them in stock and will order them for you, add a mark up and make you wait a few more days for them? The parts from Florida took 5 days to get to me.
The local dealers just have to wake up that the only benefit they can offer is same day or walk in sales delivery - they can almost never beat on line for price - and that is from shop front places as well. The Australian retail dealers really need to lift their game - delivery time is their only competitive edge now days.
And Amazon is nearly here which will only make things tighter- even though they only stock a small percentage of what they list as available.
This was another great video in your Evinrude series Stu. I now wouldn't think twice to pull that carrier out and replace the seals if they were leaky. You've shown it's not a bad job with the right tools and a little patience!
Hey Jack, yeah, it goes pretty smoothly with a decent puller and a bit of heat. It's also pretty simple going back together which is always nice. I had to pull a tiller steer throttle / gear selector off a little outboard yesterday and I've never seen so many linkages and springs! :O
I have a 1993 Johnson 150. I was changing the lower unit oil and a lot of water came out. I just got all my seals in the mail today waiting on the. Can’t wait to try this job myself. I know I’ll save a lot of money…..
Your videos have helped me so much on my 150 intruder. found 2 oz of oil in my lower unit because of that seal. thanks!
Glad the vids have helped. It certainly is a problem when those seals go!
Those locking tabs are so much superior in design to the threaded bearing carrier retainer rings on Mercury and other gearcases. Not only do they require a special tool, but they seize most of the time. Would love to see a video on that style bearing carrier job someday. Great work as always, cheers!
Hey Louis, yes, those threaded carrier are really hard to get undone, and that is even with the specialist tool that most of us don't have. Will do a video on them one day.
Thanks for all your videos, been using them to help me replace all the seals on my lower unit, my bearing housing was such an ass to get out ha, but got it out with all your tips cheers!! keep up the great work!!
Instablaster
Stu, As once was told to me, Files are like hacksaw blades, the teeth can only cut metal on the push stroke, also, lift off the pressure on the teeth on the return stroke to maximise the working life of the tool.
Thanks a bunch Stu, I'm a newby to this but under your tutelage i'm gaining in confidence. Hope the
sponsorship works out.
I'm always nervous removing the carrier bearing, busted a few. Great news on the sponsor you deserve it
Yes, I think removing bearing carriers is one of the most fraught jobs you can do on outboards for sure.
A nice touch that Tequila Bottle ! Awesome videos you do so helpful with my outboard problems. Much appreciated and remember there is always 12 drops left in the bottle !
Glad to help!
Dear stu, i pulled the bearing carriage out same same, our lower leg locked up, our reverse gear is stuck in that removed housing, from your video i can now tell fishing line probably killed this end of bearings oil/water fail. Vgood
Here's a little tip for ya, Those seals will start easier and straighter and go in easier if you put the seals them selves into a freezer for 30 minutes and heat up lightly or warm the carrier where the seals sit just a little.
Love watching this guy pure genius
Thank you for taking the time to share this video
keep up the good work Stu. marineengine.com is a great sponsor and they always have an answer on where to source parts if they don't have them in stock. CDI is another great company for electronics for older Evinrudes you may want to talk to them as well. Got my shirt a few weeks ago. Waiting to send the pic when I have the runabout completed. Thanks to your videos, I've managed to save over a thousand dollars USD in labor costs and I've learned a great deal about my 4 Evinrude motors. 1959 Gale 35, 1976 Evinrude 35, 1976 Evinrude 40, 1973 Evinrude 65 Short Shaft. Thanks again...
You're welcome Michael, glad to hear the videos have been helping you save some money. I have noticed that MarineEngine.com also have a great amount of information as well as products which can sometimes be just as valuable. Looking forward to putting your picture up on the board!
Once again an excellent video! I will be doing this tomorrow.
If I remember correctly you replace the stainless steel spring With the rubber O-ring when you first started working on this engine just to see if it works before you want to stick more money into it
Yeah, somebody else mentioned that I still don't have any memory of doing it, but it certainly sounds like something I would have done. Oh well, time to do it properly! :)
That o-ring you took out was you who put there! Saw a year old vid when u put it there and said it was just to start it and you were going to fix it later
Yeah, someone else mentioned that too. My memory is terrible! :O
Stu, That O-ring in the prop shaft oil seal was from YOU when you first took that gearbox off.
Lynwood Wa were the parts came from are an hour from where I grew up. 5 hours from my city now. Crazy to see that down under.
Ah, it is a small world after all. :)
nice tool but adding the longer all thread bolts was cool too. update on my merc. all done less putting it the lake. Haven't bought the tabs or boat license yet. my hydroboost on my truck was leaking so replaced it and now getting ready to go on vacation down on the coast. will get the boat done when we get back for summer and crabbing season.
Thanks Tim, enjoy your vacation!
I hope MarineEngine.com sponsors the channel. If you can reference things they sell for projects, tools ect, I will definitely buy stuff from them. Also, I appreciate the Tequila bottle on the workbench, maybe they can sponsor too?
It looks like it is a done deal now so looking forward to working with them on the channel. And the tequila. ;)
With a bottle on the workbench ... if I don't see one i worry about the mechanic's abilities
its winter we need something stronger to warm us up :-)
How else can a mechanic not get frustrated with all the bleed knuckles you get every day! ;)
Haha yep like the good old days pour some on the wound and drink the rest
Dangar Marine
and the clock.... no toc.
Thanks, looking forward to the shift shaft seal video. Would love to see anything on the 9.9-15hp Johnson some day. We have a lot of older ones still on the water here in the States. They're tortured has trolling motors for Trout, Kokanee and Striped bass. You have to learn how to work on your own motor because they're just not worth the cost of a shop/mechanic.
That shift shaft video should be in a couple of weeks, stay tuned. I know what you mean about needing to work on your own motors once they get a bit old, it can get really expensive fast otherwise.
Stu. Cut some water pipe or excust pipe to use to push seal in. Iv did the punch thing to an sometimes still do. .love the show Stu.
0:40
Pause
*Googles "Pajero in English"*
Morning coffee through nose.
Continue.
Nice set-up arrangement with the puller. Hopefully that will work for other projects, too, after getting it assembled for this one. As for Pajero, I had never heard of Pajero prior to watching this video, so I had to look it up. It's the Spanish word for Pampas cat, but it also has a somewhat less fanciful use as a derogatory term, roughly translated to "wanker". In North America, Mitsubishi decided to call that car the Montero, and in the UK, they call it the Shogun. But enough about it, this isn't the History of Cars channel :)
Yes, it's always nice to get future use out of tools you make up. I might not use it again for a while so I should probably label it so I don't forget what it is for! Sounds like Mitsubishi did a better job on picking a name for the rest of the world!
I was told by a colleague in the early 90's of spanish decent as to the true meaning of Pajero (Paheero as she pronounced it) thought she may have been pulling my chain....oops !! nice vid Stu
Ha! Love what you've done there. ;)
Hehe i watched the complete series, fun to see about the o-ring on about 9:35 . You actually placed it there by yourself in one of the first episode's heheh :P . Anyway i wouldnt remember too after a year heheh. Awesome project and alot too learn from!
Great video mate.We have a few Pajero's at work but they're not in the car park.They seem to come from the office area.With the way your channels going you'll be the Etcg (Eric the car guy)of boating soon.Just hope you don't wreck the channel with sponsorship adds like he did.Keep it up and ask coopers for sponsorship too as they make a fortune from you.lol.
Thanks mate, it will be interesting to see how things go in the future. Next month the sponsorship with MarineEngine.com begins but we had a great chat before agreeing to work together about how channels can really go downhill once they turn into a series of infomercials so there won't be any reviews of products or anything like that. The great thing is that they are such a natural fit for what this channel is about that I'm expecting it to add a lot rather than taking away.
Let's hope so.I watch/use to watch plenty of channels and they eventually all divert away from the channels original roots chasing the mighty dollar which really spoils it for me.I know that there can be some serious money made if you have a good channel,but all the bullsuit reviews that they suck people in with along with the host getting to big for their boots really puts me off.
Anyway ,I just find you so easy to watch and down to earth with some good videos to help others out that I hope it continues into the future.
Cheers.
I've found that the best way to clean mating metal surfaces in hard to get to places - before applying the gasket - is a dremel rotary tool with wire brushes. wear eye protection as the fine wire brush spins off bristles at very high speed.
The clock, no ones mentioned the clock!
I hope that Pajero is not on LPG - that V6 is known to burn up valve seats if duel fuelled. Otherwise not a bad mild off roader . Mind you the 2.8 diesel is a slug, but wont stop until you do something really silly.
Good timing, did my winter shutdown service, lower unit has cream coloured oil coming out so I am into the lower seals job too!
That Evinrude is certainly turning into a 'grandpa's axe' job as the other have commented. :-)
That Pajero is straight ULP fortunately. Good luck with your gearbox. Cream coloured is much better than pure water pouring out. Seen that many times!
When you replaced the internal seal, Did you press it up to the end? I’m asking because there is room enough and I’m wondering if I should level it with the outside border or press up to the end to seat all the way down. Thanks
I have the same question
I'll be rebuilding my 01 johnson ocean pro on video and I'll be wearing your shirt!
Thanks mate. Good luck!
Forgot to mention the engine with the broken exhaust valve, its a 2007 115hp Evinrude Etec. Been a great engine with a few set backs - fly wheel magnets the biggest issue - lost 10 of 18. Found some at local Evinrude dealer and glued it back together :)
At this point, that Evinrude is probably the most valuable outboard in NSW
I think we should just donate it to the Maritime Museum. ;)
Very nice! Have you ever tried adding air pressure to the unit instead of heat to help get it out?
Thanks mate. You would need a lot of pressure to help a bearing carrier come out and the oil seals would blow first unfortunately.
Great video Stu, made the same gadget to tear down my 200 Ocean pro lower unit, cannot pull the driveshaft out, not sure why.
Hi , Thanks for all your help and tips. May l suggest a variety of sizes in short lengths of new exhaust pipe pieces, they fit the seals size ok and are thin enough to clear the working lip of the seal, for specific sst jobs l weld a piece of 1" x 1/4" flat accross the top of my tubes so as l can see inside while driving the seal in and l can rotate the tube to tap exactly where l need.
Cheers Plussy.
Sounds like a good thing to start collecting.
is that thread lubricant on the work bench. I'll have to try it. haha
A very effective lubricant indeed. :)
I was thinking the same thing lol
I haven't kept up but am wondering if you pressure/vacuum tested before disassembly to pinpoint the actual leaks...I know it is impossible to have all the correct installer tools, and that you were very careful, but using a punch to drive the seal in is a risky procedure. I know how it is about "that one missing new part", always happens to us. But, you are absolutely correct, that outer oring doesn't seal the innards of the gearcase, so there is no problem reusing the old one. Wish you had the new anode though.
Hi mate. I didn't pressure test the gearbox mainly because I knew the prop seal wasn't great, I wanted to do the gear selector o-rings to make selection a little smoother and since I was going to be doing the water pump it isn't such a big deal to do the final seal while I am there. I know what you mean about punches being a bit risky, but I find that if I pick one from the set that is the entire width of the flat part it doesn't distort it like it might if it was a finer point punch. One day I should look around and see if I can find a full set of different sized seal installers. Yes, a new anode would be nice but I'm not sure where the parts would stop, not to mention the delay in ordering them. I'd never get a video finished! ;)
I hear ya for sure...I know you were careful with the punch, just mentioned it because I want to caution the viewers to be aware of the pitfalls of using a punch and encourage the use of the correct installer tools...That shift rod bushing/oring seal is a strange design, and does tend to bind the shift rod when corrosion builds up in that cavity, so you are wise in cleaning up that part and replacing the orings.Please be sure to pressure and vacuum test carefully once you are done, and coat the driveshaft splines with the OMC moly lube to minimize rust/corrosion that tends to rust/seize/damage these splines....
9:58 is what I was doing when I cracked the bearing carrier lip where the seal is-
Don’t do what I did... put a piece of wood or something between the tool and the cast metal surface of the carrier housing
Hi,
Love all that you present in your vids. I have a particular issue that I found while re sealing my prop seals. I removed the seal carrier and found a piece of the starboard exhaust valve (happened to have the part # on it). Boats in storage now (Maine) but studying up on what I'm in for come spring. Most have me removing the powerhead to gain access to the exhaust valves while I found a gent on the web, Jon Zero who sounds like he's Australian, who seems to indicate you can remove the mid section without pulling the powerhead. Looking for some guidance, if possible. Maybe an Etec powerhead removal vid topic or one to show access to these buried exhaust valves.
Thanks and hope you have a good summer!
Rich
I'm this far, but I need to take out the prop shaft and I can't get it out. Am I missing something? I noticed you didn't remove it in your video. Please help! Thanks!
You need to remove the drive shaft before you can remove the propshaft on that outboard I think.
When you replaced the prop shaft oil seal, did you sit the seal all of the way down flush against the bearing or did you leave a gap? I have the single rubber seal. TIA
Hi, bout to install mine. Dumb question... Regular Marine Grease OK for the O-Ring?
Did you put the new prop shaft seal all the way down to touch the bearing? Doing mine now but forgot to look where the old one was before I took it out
Same question
Another Great lesson !!!
Thanks for this video I hope you enjoy your time
Splendid video. Have you ever replaced a soft floor?. Thank you for your hard work doing this.
Thanks mate. A soft floor?
Geeze, bringing out the big guns Stu, 1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila floor. rough day mate?
It's always a rough day after you start drinking tequilla. Did I mention Tequila Mockingbird is my favourite book?
Nice work Stu! Did Jose give you a hand?
Mr Cuervo helps as much as he hinders!
Many Thanks!
Thank you for your video. Tried redoing seals, prop shaft seal still leaks. I have prop shaft carrier(part 332139). I am not sure I used correct seals and can't find for sure correct ones. Can you point me in the correct direction? Thank you
I noticed that you used a small diameter punch in setting the seal? What I do is prep everything as you have with this but as an addition..... Put the seal in the freezer. When ready to fit it poor a bucket of boiling water over the carrier or boil it up like a crabfest in the cooker. Just a bath is good.
Yes it is hot. place seal in place and use the socket to start it square........if you are fast enough hand/finger force is all that is required to bottom out seal. Use lubricant on seal before freezer.
Cheers
C.I.
Yep, that can be a good way to go. We have a freezer pull of leaf spring bushing at the moment because they are really hard to get in other wise. There is no doubt it can also be a bit safer as you need to be really careful with a punch not to damage the seal on the way in.
I see others putting gasket sealer (non hardening) on the o-rings of the bearing carrier. I have never put anything on o-rings but grease or oil like you did. What are your thoughts on the extra sealing with the gasket sealer?
It's probably not really going to hurt, but they should seal well with only grease. The hardest part is getting the bearing carrier out again down the track so I wouldn't be a fan of putting anything in there that would make removal more difficult in a few years time.
Do you know anything about the evinrude ficht 1999? If so do I need to do this if I got 8lb line in my prop. And I see oil leaking now?
thanks for these interesting videos. could you provide some help to people away from US? I have a johnson seahorse 25 hp outboard of 1980 rope start. it is equipped with a flywheel of 74 tooth. I would like to upgrade it to a electric starter. I am confused with the starters available in the market as they have 9, 10 and 11 tooth pinions. how to solve this technical problem. what pinion fits the 74 tooth flywheel?
I hope so given I live in Australia! I'm not sure which one it would take. I normally just order the starter specified for the model of outboard. I would recommend jump onto MarineEngine.com here and finding your model to see what they specify www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=25
Pajero is a cat I know, but I also know that it is not a good choice in Spanish countries. I think down under, Pajero might be best translated to English as "Wanker" ;-)
Ever wonder why the Chevy Nova didn't sell well in Spanish countries? No Va means "No Go" . Seems we never learned our lessons.
LOL, who wouldn't buy a car called the "No go"! ;)
Thought it meant pussy.. or penis one the two.. pendejo is bitch..
Can I use a gear case from a V4 115hp in a V6 150 e-Tec? I need to use Just the case from the V4 115hp. The inner parts will be replaced by new parts for the V6 150 e-Tec. Thanks for helping!
Well this video is right on time. Finally launched my boat after a 2yr resto. The boat is great, my 99 Johnson/Evinrude 150 had 3 issues...but sure ran good in spite of those issues. First issue was she had a sort of metal rattle sound which sounded like it was coming from the lower unit and not from under the cowling......second issue was a odd shutter right above trolling speed but would plane out beautifully.........third issue was discovered today before my second sea trial, water intrusion in the lower unit. Note that when I drained the lower unit during the resto it had water in it, I drained it completely and re filled with the good OEM stuff. After one short run I had milky fluid that smelled burnt :( . After watching your video I think I can pull this repair off. Any ideas about the metal rattling sound? Also note...when I refilled the lower unit oil I did not use new nylon washers on the LU screws but hard to believe they could be the culprits.
The videos are great....keep em coming.
ps....I have also made purchases from your new vendor and the experience was very very good.
Hi Jim, glad your restoration is progressing well. Replacing the gearbox seals will solve your water intrusion problem for sure, it is rarely the washers on the drain and fill plugs. I have heard a gearbox make a noise like you mentioned just from the propeller not being on properly. Is there any play in the propshaft when you have the propeller off? The odd shudder just above idling speed could be a bit of a carburettor blockage. Were they cleaned out as a part of restoration?
Thanks for the reply Stu......I put the prop on myself and was pretty sure I put it on correctly :) ....I will remove prop and check for play. I am about to watch your video again as I have been studying my OEM shop manual and it is far more confusing then your vid was. They talk about removing gears and such.....Im not doing that but I do think i can follow your vid and change all the seals. I only ran the boat for about 30 min with new OEM lower unit oil in it and the water was already in the oil....and of course it had that burnt smell to it. I did not clean the carbs during resto....the resto was mainly the boat...i bought the engine used....but it was running like a champ when i bought it. I learned a valuable lesson though. Never buy an engine without seeing it under load on a sea trial. Always check the lower unit oil. I did do a compression check but did not do the other things. I will order the water pump kit from your sponsor tonight.
Thanks again for another informative vid 🍻
You're welcome. :)
I have an Evinrude 40 & I was going in forward & threw it in reverse & it shut off. Now when I try to start it all it do is click. What do you think the problem is?
Take the spark plugs out and see if the motor turns by hand. Sometimes when motors go into reverse at speed they can ingest water. It sounds like it is either a starter motor problem or the motor or gearbox is seized.
I just drained the engine oil on my Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
Hey Stu, could you do a video on VHF radios and radio calls?
For sure, I've been meaning to do that one for a while.
Great Video! Thank you.
Hi. Do you think it's safe to clamp down a 50 Hp Tohatsu on the lower unit stand if i weld it to a sturdy base with casters?
I need to service the parts that let the outboard engine swing side to side. I have a bad case of rust going on here on my old Tohatsu and i was hoping to clean up the parts giving me a few more seasons out of it before i scrap it. I know i can make the stand strong enough. What i'm more unsure of is how much the lower unit takes of load before something snaps off.
Hmmm, that's a good question. There is a fair bit of weight in a 50HP so I'd be careful. I'd be more inclined to hang it from it's lifting eye on the top of the motor then put the lower unit in your stand to hold it still.
Do I need to remove the lower unit to replace the dog clutch on my 1979 Evenrude 150? Thanks for the great videos.
Or can I just use the puller with the lower unit still on?
I believe so. I think you need to remove the driveshaft to remove the propshaft with those outboards.
Dangar Marine the problem I'm having is when in the water the reverse slips and grinds but out of the water it does fine. I even disconnected the shift cable just to see if the problem was in the cable but it still grinds when holding it manually in reverse. When I had it in reverse manually if I let of pressure on the lever it would jump back into neutral position but in forwards position it locked in and I could let go of the lever and it stays in forwards do you think the dog clutch is the problem? Thanks very much appreciated.
great stuff nice video from bushmans river mouth South Africa
Thanks Robert.
How do you get the prop shaft all the way out to straighten it? I bought a boat/motor with one that is slightly bent and would like to service it this winter. The seals themselves look easy.
It depends on the outboard. With these Evinrudes you need to take the drive shaft out first unfortunately.
16:34 it might be a optical illusion but your bench grinder looks like its sitting ontop of the gearbox ;)
The OTC 522 puller is sold everywhere from Amazon to National Tool
Probably already posted, but according to Wikipedia, the Mitsubishi Pajero:
It was named after Leopardus pajeros, the Pampas cat, which is native to the Patagonia plateau region of southern Argentina.[3] But pajero in Spanish is also a common term of abuse, usually translated as "wanker" or "tosser", thus perhaps why alternative names have been used for many markets. It is known as the Mitsubishi Montero (meaning "mountain hunter"[4]) in the Americas (except Brazil and Jamaica), and Spain, while in the United Kingdom it is known as the Mitsubishi Shogun.
RichE
You can't beat Wikipedia for getting to the heart of the matter! :)
Funny, that puller you usec is the same tool ford says you have to special order to remove the tortion bar suspension setup.. except theres a u bolt instead of the 2 rods.. used like a spring compressor...
As always, great job on the step by step video! I hope to this next week, once I get my seals.
Hey Stu.....I cant find the vid when you removed the lower unit....which one was that please? Most of it is self explanatory I guess...but I need to know about disconnecting the gear selecter....or if shifter should be in forward.....or whatever the tricks are......thanks
Hey Jim, from memory it was the one where I measure the shift shaft length.
Thanks Stu.......Now I am really confused. I watched another persons video.....he was working on an older Evinrude but the prop shaft seal was 2 pieces...an inner and an outer and so were the drive shaft seals. And now that I have seen that...studying my shop manual it shows 2 opposing seals one facing in and one facing out....before I didnt know what that diagram was trying to say but now I understand. I will have to watch your vid again but I think your prop shaft seal and drive shaft seal were just one piece. Could this be the modern updated version of the seal??????
To be honest, this Evinrude is the first outboard I've seen that only has a single seal. Having said that, it is a double seal, but it really does vary from outboard to outboard.
Im putting in the hours studying these damn parts lists right now...the seal you used was 341281...the seals my part list says to use for my 99 PX model is 334950 two needed for assembly facing back to back. They have metal outer edges and call for gasket sealant on them. Yours is a 97...mine is a 99.....and I have a 98 parts motor that tonight using your instructions I dropped the lower unit. Pretty easy to do...but removing the carb seems like a bad design...but sure enough it gave me the room I needed. I am going to pressure test my parts motor lower unit before i attempt to remove the bearing carrier. I made a lower unit stand tonight and it is ready to go. Sure wish I could post pics here to show off my stand. Your videos are a huge help....and save me a lot of money.......so a BIG THANK YOU to you sir!!!!
Hey Jim, would love to see your stand. If you upload the pics to a picture sharing sight (Google, Imgur etc) you can post the link on TH-cam.
I usually use an angle grinder tapir the edge of the threads spinning as I go
Hello. I have a evinrude 150 hp 2002 mod . I got som Vabration I 2000 rpm spesieli . Do you now witch bearing can be brooken in the gearhousing . Or wath may be the problem . Best Regards Morten . From Norway 😊
Didn't I see you take out that spring and then install the O-ring? It was a previous video.
Yes, a few people have mentioned that. My memory is terrible!
I lost all thrust on my Evinrude 150 on Sunday. Engine runs just fine and cables are still connected and move freely but still no propulsion. What are your thoughts on steps to diagnose? It's a 1998 2 stroke
Sounds like you might have this problem th-cam.com/video/0eI5HZXSTnM/w-d-xo.html
Hey Stu, thank you for all the great help in your videos. I have an 86 mercury 9.9 2 stroke tiller handle. What generally causes a lack of "feedback" when you shift from neutral to forward? There's a distinct "click" felt when you shift from neutral to reverse or reverse to neutral but when shifting from neutral to forward it almost feels like you just continue from neutral on into forward and then start opening up the throttle. The shift rod and linkage up into the top all look good.
This "issue" started after I removed the lower unit to do some inspecting (old motor I inherited, no idea on maintenance schedule). It still shifts correctly into each gear but the "mush" felt when going into forward bothers me (since it didn't happen before). I have checked the throttle and shift ball linkages for length per the service manual and adjusted those to their specified lengths (4 7/8 inches). Adjusting the 2 nuts on the throttle cable and taking out what tiny slack there was also doesn't seem to have helped.
When the gearbox is off, does the gear selector still feel the same? Can you select a gear crisply from the gearbox with the gearbox removed?
Dangar Marine yes, all gears are nice and crisp when selected via the long shift rod with the lower unit on or off the rest of the outboard.
So this makes me think it is more of a forward control or cable problem then, maybe a problem with the detent mechanism in the throttle lever.
I have a 1991 Evinrude 150 Intruder Spitfire series. Will this be an issue I should be worried about? We've replaced the entire lower unit already and I don't want to do it again.
It's only something to worry about if water is getting into your gearbox oil. If that isn't happening then your seals are fine.
Great stuff!! Just a tip, I have had success with using varying sizes of pvc/abs pipe as seal installers.
Great tip!
very good...
so thanks...
so long.
Thanks Carlos. :)
Marine Engines dotcom, I'll use them as they are sponsoring you.
Thanks mate. :)
am I right did I see you fir the new oil seal dry! I did not see you grease it when it was fitted, is no grease was put on it,, how long will it last before it burn's out? second's?
Usually put a wipe of grease on, yes.
ok, here's a good-un that I was told to try out if your outboard engine is not pumping water very well!,, it could be that the pump impeller is worn out, but it could also be just salt crystals that have built up inside your engine's water ways, thereby blocking them up some what slowing the flow of water through the engine!,, so here's the trick,, you get a big tub that your engine will fit into so you can run it up inside the tub if it were to be filled with water, but instead of water you fill the tub with ""vinegar!"" and run the engine for a few hours in that vinegar, and that should dissolve all the salt crystals from deep inside the engine and the engine's water pump will flush them out, however after running the engine in vinegar you will need to flush the engine out with clean water, I have never tried this trick out as yet, but the guy that told me this trick,,, did eat lots of pickled unions!,, he also never told me if you had to use white vinegar or brown vinegar,, and with or without unions in it!,, but I would say that after use,, you don't put it on your chip's!,, what is your thinking about this as vinegar dose remove salt "gunk" of lots of thing's,, great video's keep them coming! from a ""free Britain now out of the dominating EU!"
Good video as usual. I have a question about that Yamaha 20 or 25 long shaft in the background on the stand. What is the purpose of that little fin on the leg, ABOVE the joint between the lower unit/leg??? I have the same engine, and that fin is never in the water (cavitation plate is inline with keel) and have asked many people why it is there, nobody seems to know. Maybe someone here will know.... I see no purpose of it being there.
A good question, but unfortunately I don't know the real answer either. By guesses are that it either reduces salt water spraying up towards the head of the outboard, provides some form of dimensional strength to the leg or just looks cool. Which I could tell you for sure!
Dangar Marine I find it does just the opposite...lol Seems like the water comes up and hits it and drives it towards the transom...then up in the air. Bugs the crap out of me...thanks for the reply.
Love the videos. Will those techniques work as well with Patron Tequila?
Question for you Stu...when installing the prop shaft bearing carrier u just hit with a piece of wood...but how did u know when to stop? Wouldnt the reverse gear jam into the clutch dog??? With my 1999 the reverse gear came out with the bearing carrier. So I have no idea how to re seat it......thanks!
Jim
The bearing carrier will hit a stop so you don't have to worry about it going in too far. The reverse gear will always come out with the bearing carrier, only the forward gear will remain in the gearbox.
Thanks Stu....I actually got it installed yesterday ironically. But yes just like your video I tapped with a piece of wood until I felt it bottom out. Your video really helped me with my question about how far but I didnt catch the answer til I watched the vid for about the 10th time.....the indentations for the locking tabs inside the carrier is what I didnt know about......Once I heard u talk about that everything made sense. I sure hope this thing is water tight! Thanks for all of your efforts!!!! What ever happened to the 150? How is the old girl?
Stu, Want to Thank you for all your excellent vids very informative. I have a 1984 Evinrude 150 hp E150ancrs (75 yr anniversary model). I have been experiencing a problem - when I shift throttle into forward she goes fine at low speed, when I open throttle to get on plane she starts to accelerate for a second and then I lose propulsion and she races. Shop that formerly handled evinrude (and all her prior maintenance and repair) told me just that : probably prop shaft seal. they no longer do evinrude. So do you think that is my problem and is it something to tackle by myself? thanks
Just had this same issue on a mercury the prop was bad. Rubber inside was broken
How do you remove the prop shaft I have same motor? Thanks for the videos btw
I never took the prop shaft out of this one but I imagine it is similar to this th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=mJBHxKhCUu8
great job
Thanks Kyle!
Anode is your only protection from corrosion for the carrier. Check the price the carrier?
Would this be the same on a 1988 125 horse evinrude?
Stu, you need to replace the batteries on that Clock!
Ah, that's 20, now I can do it! ;)
okay I took my boat out this weekend I feel heavy.. I noticed an oil leak between the hose between the block and the carburetor.. I have a Mercruiser 470 engine thanks
If it is the 1/2" hose from the rocker cover to the air filter then a new hose and clamps would be about all you need. That is the crank case ventilation air line and basically allows all the vapours given off from the oil to go into the cylinders to be burnt and out the exhaust pipe rather than venting all over your engine space and becoming a fire hazard, and a gigantic mess as well. Leaking oil from that pipe indicates the clamps are a bit loose (but they don't have to be very tight as the hose doesn't carry any pressure) or the hose is rotting out. 10 minute fix either way.
Thanks a lot I'll check it out thanks