Refitting a subframe on the MG TF
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- It turns out rebuilding and refitting a subframe is a little more involved than first thought! Firstly an apology as this video took waaay longer than I'd planned but hopefully enough is covered to give anyone having a go at this sort of work a bit of insight. Secondly, another apology, when filming I'm often referring to nuts and bolts as though they're the same thing sometimes!! 🤔...I'd like to think I know the difference by now...it tends to be where I've had several attempts at filming the same job and got a bit flabbergasted!! 🤣😂
It feels like there's light at the end of tunnel now, just a few jobs required before turning the key and then MOT time!!! or.....perhaps several more jobs if the engine work isn't up to scratch!!!! Fingers crossed!!! 😳😱😢😲
~~ Products I use during this video ~~
machine tap set --- amzn.to/3st8qTb
3/8-inch Extension Bar Set --- amzn.to/3bOd5ZY
1/2-inch Breaker Bar --- amzn.to/3ilAjHT
Milwaukee M12 Impact Wrench --- amzn.to/3sxdhm1
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Fantastic to watch the mg come along. Really needed to be this long to show what is involved.
How lucky I am here Down Under. My MGF is completely corrosion free. I have a hoist to work on my vehicles. She's up there now. Love your video Mike, extremely informative. Thanks Mike and I have subscribed for more to come.
You are a very natural presenter. Well done
Really enjoyed this Lee. Well put together video with loads of great info you don't get from photos.
Firstly, thank you for taking the time to video the process and produce a video. Its been great and so informative. Short videos have their place, but I love longer video's because they, like this one, take the time for a deeper dive and go through the whole process without the rush to fit in 10 minutes.
The Gunson kit I swear by, since using one thirty odd years ago I bought another when I lost that one, and its sat in the garage for over 15 years, still in its box, never used. If ever I got to the point of needing to bleed brakes again, I wanted it on hand. I thought it was that good.
If you can't get a cap that fits your resivour buy a spare cap, new or second hand, and make something up.
I've spent today pulling apart my TF drivers side front brake caliper which began binding, only to discover I've got a rounded passenger side wheel nut as my next problem - can't get the wheel off to get on to that side before it has problems. I've come home, put the kettle on and sat down to watch your episode. Life does always present a silver lining. :) Happy days ! Your video knocked the edge off my problems and left me smiling. Thanks mate.
Such a lovely message, thanks Alex, very much appreciated. 👍 in the past I've had great success with a set of Irwin Bolt Grip bolt removers...ive just checked and the 19mm goes over the wheel nut well...might be worth a shot. Good luck buddy 👍
Good work.Greetings from Germany.
Hi Lee... the lower wishbone was off a 96F with 104k on the clock... would have used it myself as they were so good.. but I had been given some new ones..
What can I say ? Even before I moved to Spain 6 months ago I had watched hundreds and hundreds of hours of TH-cam videos had hundreds of hours more since I don't watch the TV as of yet ,this is up there with the best if not the best, maybe slightly biased as I owned an mgtf for 6 years and sold it the week before I moved to Spain , simplemente genial, tony
Really starting to take shape now, lots of work gone into it. Nice work!
Great comprehensive video on subframe work .A most valuable record and reference for others undertaking this work as these car become more popular as a modern classic. Thank you and look forward to more videos to come
On the subject of torque, I'd just like to give a little advice, I don't want to come across as a jobs-worth, it's for safety reasons. Many years ago I fitted brake components at a car factory in the North East, and they were classified by the M.O.T. as an important A grade fitting, and we had to be certified to fit them. The copper washers and bolts had to be spotless, if we dropped one they were binned, and we never touched the face of the washer either, as grease or dirt could contaminate the fitting leading to a failure, not what we want when hitting the brake pedal. Applying the torque was another certified procedure, the torque wrenches were calibrated daily, and the torque is applied when the wrench clicks ONCE. If you watch the portion of the video where you tighten the banjo bolt, you can see that each time the wrench clicks, the bolt moves a little more. The copper is soft so deforms, over-torque can lead to failure.
Fantastic Video, Great Detail too, im glad im starting to see more love for the MG F/TF they're great cars :)
Thanks so much for uploading this Lee. I have been contemplating refurbishing my front subframe and I think I may now go for it!
Looks really good! you're making me want to have a go at refurbing my subframes!
Great video Lee. Very well done. Also if you don't brake bleed kit you've got doesn't work out then I can recommend the vizibleed brake and clutch bleed kit from Halfords. It was very easy to use and worked a treat. All the best.
The underpinnings of my 2002 TF are in much better state even though it lived outside for the first 10 years of its life and used as my only car so not exactly pampered. As I commented on a previous video, I think yours is in the state it was in due to it being built when Project Drive (Dive) was in its full cost cutting swing and as 2004 MY TF it will have sat in a soggy field for 12 to 18 months before it was registered possibly by the receiver after MGR went to the wall. Keep up the good work!
Just awesome video , great entertainment, keep them coming matey
Great work Lee.
Mike, an easier way of getting the subframe in (or out ) is to slide it through the wheel arch on a piece of wood as you had. I just used a single sheet of plywood. It saves scuffing that paint that you so lovingly applied. I also left the anti roll bar and cross brace till the sub frame was in place.
don't forget to hammer a notch at that axle nuts. Great video Lee, as always.
Cheers Alex, well spotted!! 👍
Great first video for 2021. Many thanks Lee
That was amazing! Well done, awesome work
Another great video lee I've just bought a 2003 tf 160 loads of great tips and insight for when I start to refurbish mine keep up the good work
Thats great 👍 lovely engine too 👌
Just a thought, refit the sub-frame with minimal parts on it then fit hubs, suspension etc, easier to torque correctly. Good video.
Well done Lee, another of your inspirational and well put together videos. My only suggestion is that you replace those horrid coolant pipes with some stainless ones asap. I have just been rebuilding my mg tf engine and have just replaced those pipes as they had large chunks of rust on the inside that would or could have detached and ended up clogging the narrow water ways in the cylinder head, a costly and time intensive excersise to remedy. I have just purchased a new stainless set of pipes for £62 inclusive of postage, can let you have the details if interested. Look forward to seeing the mg up and running, before mine probably as the workshop doors have swollen with the damp weather and I cant open them🥴. Colin h
It has been jolly wet lately!! Hope you get in soon! 😀 ....yes by all means let me know where you got them from...think mine are beyond saving!! 🤣
It was from Sams-autos on ebay, £62.50 inclusive, came with stainless jubilee clips and the plastic clips that hold the battery cable to the fabrication. 👍
@@wheatleysworkshop PEP102470SS is the part number for the SS under floor pipes
I can get into the workshop via a normal door but can't open the sliding doors that allow me to drive the mg out, oh well roll on summer, still have plenty to do on the old girl🤔
Great job Lee, thanks again
Great vid Lee, really enjoying the series. Just a quick note, it is not recommended that the lower shock bolts are re-used as they are under a lot of stress. Given the age might be worth replacing with new. Keep em coming!!
I hope you have more luck with the Ezibleed than I did. It was badly assembled, the fluid pipe nuts were slack and a sealing washer was missing, the pressure pipe was loose. When I connected it to a tyre at 8psi fluid squirted everywhere from the clutch master cylinder and Ezibleed even though the cap was as tight as I could screw it. Used the £2 one man kit bought at a boot fair and it worked perfectly!
Small tip: After I have torqued down a bolt, I put a small spot of yellow paint on one of the flats of the head. This then reminds me which ones still need to be tightened once the car is back on the ground
Thanks Chris, great tip!
the fact that you didn't pinch your skin once fitting all that you must be proud. hat's off sir
😅😅 thanks Maher 👍
Great vid. Keep them coming 👍
Great video. Thank you. A small note on torqueing the bolts. I'm not sure you can use the torque wrench with a swivel bit. I think it needs to be straight.
Hi Lee good video could I make the suggestion that you put copper slip on the shafts of the bolts passed through the poly bushes so they don't sieze together.
Brilliant !
Great video as always Lee. I’ve never been able to find a cap to fit the TF brake res., for the Gunsen, but you might be more successful. Lots of good work there Lee, nice one! 👍
Cheers Gary, thanks for the heads-up. 👍
You can use the gunson on the clutch fluid reservoir. Makes bleeding this a breeze. I would however recommend either refurbing or replacing the slave cylinder on the clutch as I tend to find new fluid finds them out! Also top tip be very careful in routing coolant hoses so that it cannot touch the metal bracket holding the slave cylinder. The metal gets hot and slowly melts the rubber then whoosh!!! Good luck getting it back on road great video
Don't worry about lubricating around your bush in front of us, we're all friends here.
More seriously I appreciate you making the video and realise everything must take an inordinate amount of time as you need to film, edit and upload as well as doing the job. 🎥 I didn't think I could be influenced into buying an MG but I'm feeling weak.
😅🤣 thanks Thomas...it certainly does take time...might cover the process one day in a future vid. Even though I've not driven a TF yet...ive owned many Rover's in the past and it has that same something about them...there's some nostalgia in it somewhere. When I come to do the Britain's best driving roads series I'll hopefully be producing some short films....maybe they'll twist your arm! 😉
@@wheatleysworkshop You say nostalgia, I call it rust...let's meet in the middle on Stockholm syndrome. Lockdown has been so long I might have forgotten how to drive, I'll need a refresher course.
@@thomas316 🤣🤣😅
The bleeding kit you Show at the end are brilliant for bleeding the clutch however i dont think the caps fit over the break reservoir, i use a cheap 7 pound self bleed from halfords that works on a vacuum.
yes i agree with Floody it has a cap with tension strap it’s a bugger ! ended up with fluid everywhere .i did get it to work eventually but anything over 15 psi from the tyre and it’s a disaster. the caps supplied i’m sure work perfectly with a normal screw on reservoir but the TF on is not screw on . i’ve flipped to a suction one think that’s a better method than the gunson one for the TF anyway but by all means give in a go if you can get a seal first time Lee well done
it is ever so shinny shinny underneath.
superb as usual Lee, see my comment on the bleed kit 😀on floody C HD post , ps the 2pot calliper kit is a good option but you will need the 16’ wheels check the rimmer bros site for info on what you can fit with the right wheel options. cars looking good.
Cheers Andrew, thats worth knowing thanks 👍
A question Mike. How did you line up the steering rack to the wobbly joint in the car. Is the inner bit of the steering column suppose to be free to slide up and down or is that going to damage the crushable steering column and wreck the air bags sensors. Any advice ? Very grateful. The alternative means lowering the back end of the subframe to line everything up.AAAAHHHHH
Mike sorry to use your column as a share info space but I have finally found out how to line up and refit the steering column. The bottom section does indeed slide up and down but mine was surface corroded and wouldn't. Scotchbright and plus gas saved the day but not before i had been in and out up and down to loosen the subrframe and lower it a bit. The solution to set up the splines is to turn the rack so that the flat is towards you and visible, then turn the steering wheel till the "open"side of the clamp lines up with the flat. Engage the spline and slide it down as far as it will go and raise the subframe to fully mesh. Bolt in ,job done.
Great video Lee, could I ask what microphone you are using? I'm looking at getting one to improve my audio
Thanks 😊 I started out using a Rode VideoMicro but was picking up wind too much outside etc. Then had a cheap lav mic into a Sony recorder which was much better but had to sync in post every clip. Now use the same cheap lav mic with the Rode WirelessGo which is brilliant.
What brand poly bushes did you use on the front lower arms? I bought some flo flex ones and they just don't seem to fit yours looked to slot in same as oem very jealous lol thanks
To be honest, I'm not sure. I got them from a mate for a tenner 😆
Bargain haha thanks anyway buddy
respect
Great Video again . Well presented .
What was the Tap and die set ?
It was a set off Amazon that included taps and the corresponding drills. Here's a link...www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0038LH1N2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=mglee-21&linkId=e8aee69e81ccbdecb4d9b532d90fc8ed&language=en_GB
I love these cars, if you want to collab on my second channel about me acquiring parts, let me know :)
only a year? i wouldnt worry too much about the fuel, a year really is nothing. Top up with some fresh before starting and it will be fine mate