Subframe Refurb on the MG TF
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- The subframe refurb took much much longer than i had planned having ran into a few issues with snapped bolts! Still, it should help the MG TF live on that little bit longer and is another step completed on the road to....well....getting her back on the road!
🛠🛠 Products I use during this video 🛠🛠
Hammerite Metal Paint --- amzn.to/2Xm24XA
Poly Strip Discs Paint/Rust Remover - amzn.to/30oyiU3
Plus gas - amzn.to/3gw3IO8
Sealey Left Hand Spiral Drill Bit Set - amzn.to/3gqoLS2
Brass Coated Wire Brush Wheel & Cup Brush Set - amzn.to/2DtowqH
Autotek Etch Primer - amzn.to/2XEOtLp
Hycote Grey Primer - amzn.to/33mpVu7
Hycote Clear Lacquer - amzn.to/2ECTX2j
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Just a little tip Lee, run a correct size tap through the holes to clean up threads and apply a dab of copper grease to bolts to ease assembly as you may have some paint in the threads which will make it tight to do bolts up.
I remember doing this on my TF years ago!
I share your pain with rusty bolts. Now that I live in Sydney rust is not the problem. Parts for MGF or TF and specialists , are like hens teeth. I’ve used POR 15 with good results so far. Love your work.😊
Great video Lee. Glad to see you’ve followed the same rust prevention process, literally using the same products I did for my subframe. I think it’s a lot better than it was and the products used do seem to work well, so cheers.
Cheers Garry, thats encouraging 👍
Drill out with the correct tap size drill and the re-tap the threads.
You have a welder! They generate some heat during the welding process, and one trick for stuck bolts is to tack-weld a bit of scrap metal to the offending bolt, the heat is often enough to release the rust bond.
I’ve seen another video of a DIY sand blaster for very little money. Would of worked wonders on the subframe. Prob saved you a lot of time too...where on earth are all the views...you need a lot more. Great vids mate.
That cleaned up great! I guess you have no other choice than to match the rear now :D
hat off to you lee i would have just drilled the studs out and gone at the ends with a cold chisel from the start and saved time but you did try! you can always run a mini roller over the hammerite to lose the brush strokes btw
riv nuts are a good option for replacing captive nuts. if yo put about in the nut while welding it and screw it out while it is still hot it save getting weld seater on the threads.or run a tap through the nut you already have welded to it and see yourself grinding the new nut out.
Another great video 👍🏼
Hi, give Simoniz paint a try. Great to use, great coverage, good drying time and their clear coat is fab. I have used Autotek etc before and this is by far the best and not really any more expensive than Autotek.
Great honest video , MG fighting to the end with those sheared off bolts - bring on the next video
Cheers Gary 👍
Hello there. Never been the first to leave a comment before. This week I polybushed the rear lower links.
Ahh thats cool, I've got some poly bushes to go on the new lower control arms and anti roll bar when they go back on...be interested to know if you noticed a difference 👍
@@wheatleysworkshop Yes! Before there was a noticeable swaying with every shifting of the road level. Now it is much more relaxed, especially at motorway speeds. I done other things before this, it's along list, (soft shocks, upgrade anti-roll bars, poly bushes at front, etc. etc.) I'm trying not to turn this into a brag list; so I'll stop now.(P.S. Poly bushes at front flattens speed humps.)
Hi Lee, are you planning on doing the rear subframe? I would really appreciate it. Great videos, thank you!
Great sseing parts of the MG I have only seen laying on my back on the garage floor with a torch.
Have you considered using Wayoyl inside the box sections ?
I had a look at a product called POR15 which is supposed to be fantastic... but so is the price! I think if I hadn't already got the hammerite I would have gone for something like Waxoyl... hammerite even sell a specific underbody deal with added Waxoyl. Will be interesting to see how it weathers over time.
Sorry to use your video for this but I need advise regarding the starter motor on my 04 TF 160, are the starter motors all the same for the 3 variants or are they different? Thank you for any help.
No problem at all. There are different ones you can get depending on things like manual/auto, VVC/non-VVC and age of engine. Take a look here.... rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID018962
Its also dependent on the gearbox... there are 2 different tooth drives on the starter
is that the front frame
It is yeah.
Eye protections please i beg of you to alwsys where eye protection
Your problem is mate your lacking in the knowledge. You use heat and try to remove while its hot. That was the expansion gives you more room to remove it, as the heat is there. NEVER HEAT THEN ALLOW TO COOL. You may well of not bothered
Dale Flaherty Blow torch or gas axe first always the easiest.