Hey guys, moving forward if you need me to answer any of your questions regarding my DIYs and product reviews you must be subscribed. A small favor to ask for a world of information at your fingertips, Thanks - The Chemist
Thanks for the video, you did a very good example, it would be cool to see the old stator and the numbers you're getting IE prob a "0" like mine! Thanks for sharing.
I have an 02 monster 750 sie. I ohmed across the 3 yellow wires and got .4 on every wire. Is it still possible for the stator to be bad? The symptoms are pointing to the stator.
So I just bought a 2005 gsxr 600 and he said stator went bad so he bought new one and put it in and said it worked for 2 days and quit working. Well I bought it the wire harness was pretty bad from wires being cut to add led lights and stuff so I took all that out and put new water proof connectors on and did it all right checked stator and it was reading good but wouldn't work so I opened up stator cover and when he put new one in he didn't put wires behind the metal tab to protect it from flywheel and it ate through some of the wires just like half way so when bike was running it was putting current into motor which is your ground. So I fixed it and now I'm waiting on gasket to put cover back on.. should work. Just FYI yo anyone doing one make sure you put it in right because u could fry your Ecu doing something like that. Luckily I think I'm good..
Wow, yeah you got really lucky. It's always good to go over a used bike after a purchase even though it's running. You just never know what kind of hack job the previous owner did.
This happens when one or all of three things happens. 1) Stator is going bad 2) RR going bad 3) One of the 3 phase is intermittent Hard wiring in the stator connections is the best way to resolve this issue. If after hard wiring the melting still occurs, then you know its time to replace the Stator or RR.. test both. Just an FYI a stator can test good but still give you problems like this, Happen to me not to long ago ..
Can you tell me on a K5 750 if this or a rectifier/regulator would cause the bike to die in flight & not start? I can get it to idle when a jump pack is hooked to the battery but it will only idle for rougly 8 seconds until the jump pack shuts off. The battery is good as well. Fuel pump delivery is good & plugs are new.
The battery is used to start the bike. If you start the bike and remove the battery terminals the bike should still run because the stator is supplying the juice. If the bike dies when you remove the terminals then you know the issue has to do with the RR or Stator. But before doing that i would put my meter to the battery and see if im getting 13-14 volts after starting and letting the bike idle. If you dont see that then u know that the battery is not being charged amd again it could be RR or stator. Most of the time its the RR but there are times when the stator goes bad to. You need to check all.. look in my videos for testing each.
Hello, in my er6 the battery does not charge and I measure current at the stator output and it gives me 7v and up to 28v if I accelerate to 5000 revolutions. It's bad right?
It's hard to say when your testing that way. Better to test the Stator as shown in the video because you see that all values are within spec per your service manual as shown. This rules out the stator as the charging issue unless you have a ground loop short..to test that, the stator need to be on the bike. Only two systems left after that.. RR or Battery. I can't really give you a definitive answer because you didn't state how you tested the stator while running. If you're testing the stator while running for AC voltage you should start the bike and disconnect the stater from the harness and test at the connector. This will give you your AC voltage while also removing the regulator rectifier and battery as part of your problem...
The measurement is made with the stator disconnected and the motorcycle started, giving an output voltage of 7 v alternating current. When I think it should give 18 to 20v minimum. And measuring resistance gives 0.2 ohms
@@toni2468 take a look at 3:01 mark in this video. Shows your specs for the charging system.. if your values aren't the same then most likely it's the stator.. if they are.. then move on to your RR but from the looks of it .2 is within spec.. 48v AC is what should be read at stator connector when running, and 12.8v or more at battery terminal.. th-cam.com/video/AdjFyVjwevs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n6qMGkP_FcOkVfmH
Assuming that you have a 3 phase stator, set your digital multimeter to the correct setting for your bike, and tested it as demonstrated in the video then yes, your stator is toast. Most bad stators that have or had electrical issues will show it on the coper winding wires.. some look burnt or have a blackish color but just because it doesn't mean it's not bad, it's just one thing to look for. From what I can see, the R1 has OEM Stator/Gen has a known issue of failure. So if this is the OEM then this may be the issue why it went out and you may need to replace both.
@@ronstansell993 I didn't get it in my email. You can always upload it to TH-cam under unlisted and just share the link with me. If not then Google drive if you have one..
My connector wasn't melted like yours, but was pretty funky inside, I clipped mine and was wondering if it matters what wires connect to what? Cause when I hook my ohm meter up directly to the wires and rev I'm getting around 60 volts, but when I connect the stator to the bike and check the volts they're low and don't go up at all when I rev? Not sure if it's the regulator, or bad connection somewhere.
And not sure if the wires are just connected wrong, but didn't think it really matters, unless it does, when I clipped I didn't pay attention to what went where.
@@paulburrows2120 What up Paul, no it doesn't matter which of the 3 wires you connect , there is no polarity. It's a bit harder to troubleshoot your issues once you have butt connected but if you have used bullet connections, which come apart; then you are golden. You need to start the bike and while running disconnect the stator wires from the harness and while revving at the bike 5k RPMs test the stator side connections (BE CAREFUL NOT TO SHOCK YOURSELF!) . Here you should see 65v AC.. if you do then you know that it's not the stator and only leaves the RR or battery. Believe it or not a bad battery can still test in a good range (12V) but still cause an issue, This has happen to me twice and that's when I moved to the Shorai Lithium Iron battery seen here th-cam.com/video/I8GIhZRz0os/w-d-xo.html , ( Product Link: amzn.to/3gC4Cc2 ) and after 5 years I still have this battery and haven't had a single issues. If it's not you're stator or battery then lastly it's going to be your RR.. I suggest not going cheap Ebay special and you can see why here th-cam.com/video/uDhuwCE2Bk4/w-d-xo.html . I have no affiliation with these guys , I found them on the net after a ton of searching and reviewing. While the cost is a bit pricey I do not regret spending the extra coin for this RR, I still have it one my bike and haven't had any more issues with my electrical system. It's been 5-6 years now and with these purchases I haven't had a single issue with my electrical system. Take it for what it's worth but for me this is the way to go.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for the quick response! Yeah I don't have a tak so can't really tell my rpm's, about half throttle I'm around 60-70 volts which I'm guessing would be close to 5k so thinking my stator is good.I guess my question prior was I checked the voltage after connecting the stator back to the bike and the voltage was low and didn't increase at all when I reved it up. Is that normal? Thinking it must be why you disconnect before testing but not sure. Also did a diode test on the regulator and thinking I did that right it looked good. And yeah never thought it'd be the battery, it charges up ok, bike will fire right up, but when putting ohm meter on the bike running it loses volts and stays around 11.9-12.2 volts when it should be around 13 or more. How would you test the battery in this situation? Sorry if I'm asking too much, I just don't know what to do really, don't want to fork over 200$ got a regulator and not be the problem.
@@paulburrows2120 every bike has its own quirks and what your experiencing is what I went through many years ago, pain in the ass to track down the problem. This is the reason why I have the digital volt meter on my bike that you see in all my videos, I would never know when the correct voltage was being dumped in and when it wasn't and I could never trust when the bike was going to start. Loosen the screws to your battery and leave hand tight, start the bike and then remove the +/- leads to the battery, the bike should stay running as normal if your stator is good. Now connect your meter to the +/- leads of the bikes battery harness. Rev the bike up to 5k rpms and see if you get the 13 volts on the meter now. If you don't, then you know you problem is South (RR or Stator).. since you say the stator is good then that only leaves 1 other item in the equation. If you do then you know the problem lies North (battery). Always remember that just because something test good on the bench doesn't mean that it is.. the job of the RR is to take the stator AC voltage and convert it the proper DC voltage the bike/battery needs and shunt the rest of the unused voltage. When the RR starts going bad a lot of funky shit starts to happen on both ends of the harness it connected to (stator/battery). It can back flow or provide voltage to the stator causing fried wires/connectors or fried stator.. on the other end of the spectrum it can also fry your battery giving it to much or to little voltage, hence the reason why I always ride with a voltage meter now, you just never know when this is going to occur, but now I have some clue and piece of mind seeing my voltage during my start and ride times. Now if the battery is bad it can do the same to the RR.. the voltage that is provided from the RR to charge the battery has no where to go if your battery is bad.. causing the RR to work overtime, this new overtime load results in extra heat and cooks the internal parts or the RR and since Suzuki chose to placed it in a poor cooling location, this guy is a goner. (See my relocation video) Now you Get where I'm going with this.. if one part is bad it's kicking the ass of the other and these two will always remain frien-a-mies, hence why I changed the battery and the RR around the same time in the recording dates of these videos.. it was a losing battery and costing me a shit-ton of money.. it wasn't till I replaced them both at/around the same time did this problem stop for me, ya it was costly but that was one headache I was happy to pay my way out of, kinda like an ex-wife.. lol. Hope that helps you out brother..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for all the info man, really appreciate it! I ended hard wiring the stator since it seemed to check out after testing, then hooked everything back up, charged up the battery good, fired er up, put the ohm meter on battery and had 13 volts, have it s lol throttle went up to 14! I've went on a few different rides, put about 100 miles on it and still spitting out the tight volts! So to back things up a bit 2 weeks ago had a flood where my bike was parked, water got to the bottom of the motor and I'm assuming shorted out the connection for the stator, maybe even the RR. But so far so good, and I feel you on the eBay parts from your comment earlier! I've bought cheap coils before and a few other things to save a buck but you get what you pay for! Coils didn't even last a month, and ran like dog shit with em anyways!
I hope you can help me here: I recently bought an 08 zx10 and started doing a bunch of mods: added an integrated tail light, changed the bulbs to LEDs etc. Long story short, while riding around town I stalled the bike and did not want to turn back on. Called a mechanic and told me it was my battery so I went ahead and bought a new one. Yesterday it did not want to start up 2 days after having that new battery installed. Am I looking at the same issue here?
0:05 If the battery dies after riding and it was fully charge then You're running off battery power and the two other components of the charging system has failed. That would be your RR and Stator. Most of the time the RR is the culprit. I would perform a diod check on the RR.. and this test on your stator. I would also visually inspect your Stator for burnt discoloration on the coils.. usually a good sign it's time for a new one. One quick and dirty way to see if youret running off batt power is to start the bike and disconnect the battery.. if the bike shuts off then you know youre running off batt power and one OR BOTH components of the charging system isn't working.
@@TheChemistDIY An update as of right now. There was a recall on 08-10 ZX10R. So I called my dealership and indeed the recall is still open for a Voltage Regulator (whatever that means). So it has been ordered and they’ll let me know when it gets here so that they can fix it and go from there. In your book, does this sound right? Voltage Regulator does that translates to the stator or the RR?
@@klachi7 So RR is short for Regulator Rectifier or Voltage Rectifier. How your charging system works is like this... The Stator is like your altinator if it were in a car.. Through a spinning hub and magnetism, it creates AC voltage. That AC Voltage needs to be coverted into DC to run the bike, its electrical components... and charge the batt . This is the job of the RR.. it takes the AC current and converts it to DC or direct current. Not all the voltage that is "Rectified" is need tho, and some of that excess voltage is dissipated or "shunted" to ground.. All this work causes the RR to get really hot and If the RR is not in a cool location where it gets the most air flow, it will fry itself. For this reason I have moved mine to the front of the RAD...The 04/05 GSXR is well known for killing RRs because of where Suzuki chose to put it, under the back Cowl... hope that helped you out
@@TheChemistDIY good stuff bro’ thank you! I went through the recall for my 08, and they tested it and it’s charging now. After all I don’t think it needed a stator just the rectifier! I still haven’t ridden it as much but time will tell if it’s 100% fixed!
@@klachi7awesome, good to hear your up and running. One quick note before I let u be. One very good investment you are going to want is VISIABLE voltage meter located somewhere on your dash or bars. I can't tell you how much this has saved my ass when it comes to charging issues. If the volt meter is not displaying 13.8-14 volts during your ride then you know something is wrong and you need to get home QUICK!.. at about 10 volts left in the battery, your bike is going to shut off leaving you stranded.. This just happened to me the other day but because I was able to see the remaining juice left in the batt I knew how far I could ride to get me closer to home and Park in a safe area to where I could get towed.. yes it was a stator issue.. if not for that I would have been stuck on the freeway.
What up Ola k, sorry to get back to so late. To answer your question.. yes. Revving your bike to 5k RPMs after worm idle kicks in is not going to harm anything.. after all, do you start your bike in the AM and just ride or do you sit there and wait 15-20 minutes till it reaches the normal operational temperatures of 185-190 degrees.. The bike doesn't have to be stone cold.. just not blazing hot coming back from a ride.. besides I doubt you want to work on a hot bike.. aside from the uncomfortable engine heat it could lead to some nasty burns... Just saying.
Dude i just received a new stator today. Its a trip, they want 120$ for the 91' DR650 stator. But only 40$ for a yamaha warrior 350 stator. Meanwhile it is the same stator. Anyways, great vid dude. Merry Kristmass and all that.
Subix Barbarasson I ran into a something similar issue with the dealership one time. I called the dealership for a new TPS'S and they wanted $100 for 2nd TPS and $120 for the 1st (our bike has 2), why when its same damn part!.. lol. i guess their banking on people being ignorant and not doing there homework.
So the three white wires. They the same does it matter what lead goes where to a plug cause i got to swap a plug over to a good statir with same wires just all white but it has diffrent plug😊
If your speaking of the 3 wires coming off the stator (usually yellow wires) then no. The stator is producing AC current up until the RR, then RR converts to DC and after that point is when polarity matters.
I have the Sam problem today and I was confusing my self but my question is does those 3 white stator wires doesn’t matter which wire it goes to the rectifier right? Coz I didn’t pay attention which one goes as they slip while I was grabbing my flier and next thing happened is 2 came out and I don’t now which goes which pls kindly reply back I need help
Sounds like you got regulator rectifier issues. Your stator produces AC voltage at 65 volts AC, your regulator rectifier converts The AC current to DC voltage does charging your battery. If your status producing the correct AC voltage and tests just fine then there's only two parts to your system left..
what would cause your wire harness to melt like that? i have had some trouble with wires melting from the stator, and i have no idea why. can you please offer me some advice?
I usually get mine from Amazon, shipping is fast and you can't beat the price. Be sure to grab a gasket as well. Here are two links for you. Cover amzn.to/43wBuKt Gasket amzn.to/3JTPo2z
@@TheChemistDIY so I'm not lazy just new to this I have a 2007 Chongqing astronautic bansain tpgs 808/818 250 cc moped the trouble is I drilled threw the 18 pole 5 stage stator cover I still can't find one it's it's right side idk what I'm doing if you could help it be totally awesome please and thank you.
@@ronstansell993 to be honest I've never worked on or heard of that scooter. But a bike is a bike and fabrication is fabrication... Shoot me a video of what you are talking about and be very descriptive and I'll see if I could lend my opinion to resolve your issue. Send it to JamesMorenojr@gmail.com and I'll take a look brother..
My stator is reading 00.1 one prom the another's 00.2 is the stator is bad? also I test ground in diado on the bike is all beep means the stator is bad...?!
Soo, You didn't specify what bike your working on so I can't tell you what's good or bad. If an 05 like mine then you saw the between values written in the good book and you saw the CONSISTENT readings I was getting on ALL THREE leads on a brand new stator. If yours (at any lead) is not within that range written in the good, I would replace, and once you get your new stator thest that one so you can see what your baseline readings should be.. including the ground test which I didn't show here. Hope that helps ya out..
I have recently had my spark plugs replaced with a hotter plugs. Since changing the plugs, when the accelerator is all the way out, my bike spurts like it's not getting enough fuel and the high beam light fluctuates in brightness. Is this a stator issue or a fuel pump/filter issue? Prior to the plugs being changed the bike did not do this. It's a 2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500. Thanks in advance, Jerry
What up jerry, running hotter plugs on your bike shouldn't have any bearing on things you described, in fact I run hotter plugs on my bike as well. If you're experiencing sputtering after the exchange of plugs perhaps the gapping on the new plugs may be incorrect or maybe the coil pack is just not fully seated on to the plug. I remember a time when that happen to me after a sparkplug change and it was as simple as the plug not being tightened down enough and compression was escaping through the spark plug hole... Have you checked all these things?
nice tutorial video... i have the same problem but in my case i replace both stator and rectifier and yes i bought it from Ebay so China stator to China rectifier. make sense...
There are a few parts that you can get away with buying cheap, the stator and regulator rectifier are not one of those and you should always get the best money could buy.. you'll thank yourself in the long run.
If your speaking of/about the OEM harness connector that connects to the stator i bought an entire wiring harness from eBay for $150. If your thinking about replacing your connector i would suggest not to and just hard wire it in. I haven't had a problem since the making of this video.
i have checked the ohms and continuity everything is fine as in service manual..... but. my rectifier is over heating..... AC voltage is about 32 at 1500 rpm.... when i rev at 5000 rpm AC voltage is more than 75...... need help Burnet 2 rectifier already
What up brother, I'll be more than happy to help you out to resolve your issue but please subscribe. That said.. let's get into it. You didn't mention what bike you have so I'm taking it's a Gixxr. You mentioned that the RR is overheating so I'm taking it that you harness connectors at the RR and or Stator are warping or melted. 1. This is a common issue because of the stock location, it just doesn't get enough cool air under the tail and needs to be relocated to the front of the radiator. I have a video on and can be seen here th-cam.com/video/8GUM-dAw8Io/w-d-xo.html 2. It sounds like your RR is on its way out, especially if your battery is not charging and even more so if your harness is frying. There is a way to test the RR and the diods within but I don't have a video on that but can be found easily with a TH-cam search. 90% of the time it's going to be your RR that's the issue. I suggest getting a new one.. and I do have a video on the one I purchased 5 years ago and haven't had a problem since.. see that here. th-cam.com/video/uDhuwCE2Bk4/w-d-xo.html In that video I Tell how to diagnose a few issues with charging relating with RR issues. Check it out. 3. The other 10% is stator and or bad battery. If it's your battery then test or have it tested. I replaced mine with this one and can recommend. Haven't had a new battery since. That video found here th-cam.com/video/I8GIhZRz0os/w-d-xo.html If you need more details on how to test each subscribe and hit me back.. favors for favors brother :)
my rr is new just replaced......my battery voltage is also good (12.5)as well as charging voltage is also good (14.4).... stator ohms is 0.5 (service manual is 0.4-0.6) continuity is also good (no connection with Earth))
@@kumzimchen2276 I had a previous subscriber come to me, his comments are somewhere down below(or another video). He purchased himself a brand new RR (eBay special) and claimed it was good just because it was brand new. I asked him if he tested it to ensure that I was working properly, he said no... Its brand new.. I told him just because something is brand new doesn't mean it's functional when you receive it, You should test.. he was on the right path and had the answer.. the RR was bad, but so was the new one... Here's a good video on Forward & backwards testing your RR. th-cam.com/video/NTjumDgixkQ/w-d-xo.html. I can't really tell you what the problem is because everything requires testing but it sounds like you know what you're doing. Here All you've stated is that your RR is overheating. Well, they do get hot And if not properly cooled will overheat and not charge the batt, it will burn out the internal circuitry causing all sorts of other issues. You haven't stated an actual problem, just that regular rectifier gets hot. Which issue is yours: 1.) Is your battery not charging. 2.) Are your connectors, wiring harness.. burned, frying, or warping. 3.) Does your battery charge at times and not others leaving you stranded. 4) does your bike crank or have slow crank and causing the battery to be drained. 5.) Does the bike just shut off during your ride. 6.)is your battery holding a charge or is low after your ride. I can't tell you where to start with just..overheating RR. How do you know it's overheating.. there's no temp sensor for it. See what I'm getting at?
What does it mean if my voltage is spiking? In my case my headlight bulb on my 2006 Road Star keeps burning out. I tested it at just over 17v at the connector, during idle. It duplicates my reading at the battery terminals, while idling, on my charging circuit. I haven’t tested the regular rectifier, for the condition on the diodes.
@@YamahawgDawg sounds like you know already know what you have to do brother. My first test would be the RR. Sounds like it's not shunting the excess voltage to ground giving you more juice at the terminals then you should have. If you are in need of a replacement regular rectifier I suggest you spend the extra dough and get yourself a MOSFET.. I have a video on that and the supplier I went with.. still have the same RR in that video in today..
@@TheChemistDIY I don’t have a digital meter with the diode setting, I’m going to get one tomorrow. I have the connector off at the regulator rectifier, I checked the three white wires for ground across each wire, It’s indicating a ground. If those are the wires going the stator, it shouldn’t indicate a ground, right?
@@YamahawgDawg correct.. you may also want to trace those wires and make sure none of the shielding is bear and causing it to ground out. That happen to me one time.. but only because the RR was bad and heating up the wires causing the insulation to melt. . Remember.. an RR going out will take out everything on both sides of it making you think the other parts are the issue when in fact it's just the RR.. found that out the hard way after replacing two stators, two batteries and one wiring harness..
Hello James, friend, I have a query ... you know how much is the exact amount of hydraulic fluid that must have the forks of the Suzuki Gsxr 750 k4 and what type or brand of hydraulic fluid should it be?
Black Fox, good tobhear from you. The service manual say "Use fork oil SS-05 or equivalent fork oil" .. exact words from the book. Doesn't say anything about a particular brand.
Black Fox, did a little research and this is what i came up with www.gsxr.com/13-tech-performance-chat/76118-fork-oil-wt.html#/topics/76118?page=1&_k=nezdjq
Black Fox .. here is a video you can purchase forb $4.. might be worth the investment. www.onthethrottle.com/howto/04-05-gsx-r600-750-fork-service-download/
Ive never ran into an instance where each phase gave a different reading, technically they should all read the same if new. If each reads within spec then you should be good, out of spec is when you have a problem.
@@TheChemistDIY ya it was old stater and the resistance was on two phase .08 .08 & another .07 simultaneously was not charging properly but when i changed it with new one it is charging properly.
I didnt have a spark on my 08 te250, bought new stator got spark, bike runs but not charging battery, stator from chine has 3 yellow and 2 wire crank sensor, thought might be cheap stator. Bought $300.00 oem stator from husqvarna and wires are different and dont match plug on bike.
Well the plug should match up if the sale was for your bike specifically. Do you need the plug..NO.. as you can seen from my video I cut mine off so I wouldn't have to deal with the melted connection in the future. The plug may not match because some companies think for example the k6/k7 and some 1000s are compatible and there not.. so they posted as such. What does matter is the correct voltage that the stator produces and the fact that it bolts up to your housing. The number of wires from the stator should match the number of wires on your harness. If your battery is not being charged then that means your regulator rectifier is damaged as well as it is responsible for converting the AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage which the battery and bike requires.
I have an artic cat melting the wires on the rectifer and can't figure out why. It charges at 13-14v and I tried 2 uesd rectifiers and they also get really hot. Would it be a bad stator?
Have you pulled apart the stator to see if the coil windings are burnt or discolored in any way, if not I would check that first. Secondly I would remove the stator connector and hardwire the 3 wires in with butt connectors. The OEM type connectors are cheap and can not handle the heat and voltage and often melt causing the internal pins to touch frying your rectifier and harness. The reason why the rectifier gets hot is because its in a poor location with little access to moving wind to cool the unit, thus it gets extremely hot causing it to burn up taking your harness and connector with it, I would highly recommend you relocate it to the front of the radiator where it will always receives cold air to keep it cool as I did. Lastly, stay away from eBay special RR's, these things are junk and will cause you more headache than anything. Spend the extra cash and buy the MosFet RR, you won't regret it..
@@bear4u2nite not sure what side of the RR you speaking of.. one side of the RR connects to the Stator this is the 3 wires that have no polarity.. you can hard wire them up as you please without worry.. the other end is up in the rear seat (left side of bike) by the RR which if you have a GSXR like mine has a 5 pin connector.. that connects to the bikes wiring harness.. theres only one way to connect that if you have the OEM connectors.
@@bear4u2nite So here is what there suppose to look like... th-cam.com/video/NM4MD4PHnUk/w-d-xo.html , I made this video after my harness fried. the fact that there all yellow is not important, it just mean the wires had fried at one time and someone has replaced them.. Im sure you can trace them back to locate where the splice took place.. What is is that your trying to achieve and why is the wire color important.. If I had a better idea of what your doing then perhaps I could help you out
Kyle, sorry brother I do not have one that I did myself, to me it seems like you've already solved your problem of your bike not charging tho. if you tested the stator power output while the bike is running and it was good, tested or replaced the battery and good, all connectors are good...by process of elimination the only thing left is the RR... putting your meter on the battery while the bike is running will only prove that.. it all runs in a str8 line. engine---stator---RR----batt.
james moreno after more testing today I found that my signal wire to the r/r is only showing .12v I’m assuming that means something is wrong in my harness?
@@kylewilliamson6228 sorry brother i must have overlooked yoyr comment. Did u resolve the issue. Im not sure what wire your speaking of. Please give me a little more detail what ur testing.
james moreno I tested the stator and it’s within spec on resistance and making 60+v. I know that battery is good and I’m getting power all of the way to the r/r. The only thing I can think of is the r/r must be bad. I’ll know tomorrow when the new r/r comes in.
@@kylewilliamson6228, ya RRs can cause you a shit-ton of problems especially if your purchasing the ones from ebay. They work for a few months and then burn up taking out ur harness. This is just one of those parts you don't go cheap on and i learned the hard way by having to replace it 3-4 times until i finally wised up, bit the bullet and got the good MOSFET.. never had an issue since.
What up brother, if your connectors or wiring or related harnesses are melting then yes, it could be because you RR is on its last leg and back feeding the juice it should be disappointing to ground. If you swap out the RR be sure to get a Mosfet RR rather then a cheap Ebay quick fix or youll be back in the same boat a few months down the line. Take a look in my video arsenal of the one i purchased, i believe it was an FHA20 Mosfet (video will tell you) . After that one ive never needed another. Also consider relocating it like did as well (video will explain that to)
@@TheChemistDIY u right brother. I'm glad I purchased the MOSFET FH020AA RR.. going year and half still pushing. I purchased it after I saw ur video. Thanks my brother 🤟🏼 love your content, I've learned alot from you! How is ur bike?
Chris, I appreciate the props brother, glad I could help you out. I believe I'm going on 5 years now with the FHA RR without a single issue. I'm not that guy who will just put out bullshit videos to make you purchase something from my Amazon affiliate links or a partnership I have going on with someone else. When a product just works I'm going to bring it to you whether I have a piece in it or not. In the case of the FHA.. not a single dime was given to me and I purchased my own part and just had to let you all know this was the to go.
Carlos Morelos, the one you see here is aftermarket, eBay spacial. Brand wise it does not matter. Also, it does not matter if has the white connect or just the 3 wires. I don't use the plastic connectors anymore as they tend to get fried with all the heat and current.
Carlos Morelos awesome bro, glad to see your interested in performing the job on your own. Replacing the stator is a simple fix, and doing it yourself is going to save you some serious cash enabling you to put more money into your bike rather than putting it into a shops pocket. Just remember to use blue thread lock on the 3 bolts that hold the stator to the cover and you should be good. Thanks for subscribing
When it comes to these three parts, (your battery, your regular rectifier, your stator) You're going to want to purchase something of quality and not go cheap. If you're having regulator rectifier issues then yes I highly suggest you check out the website I mentioned to purchase yourself a quality MOSFET RR. Everything you see in this video is still on my bike to this day and I've had no further issues with my charging system.
you forgot to say HOW to connect the VOM when engine running IE one lead to one leg of stator wire , WHERE do you connect the other lead ? to ground or to other lead from the stator wire ?
Put your meter on AC voltage/current.. Now Start the bike and let idle, disconnect the stator connection from the harness, ie.. Regulator Rectifier.. Place the positive and negative leads of your digital metter into any two pin locations on the stator connector while running. Rev the bike to 5K rpms and you should see 65 volts AC on your meter. Do this on the remaining pins testing all.. no matter how you rotate your probs across all three pins, you should always see 65volts on your meter.. Hope that helps
Niestety, tłumaczenie google nie działa poprawnie, czy pytasz, jaki rodzaj uszczelniacza można użyć do zastąpienia uszczelki OEM, jeśli tak, to będzie czarny silikonowy uszczelka samochodowa, który można znaleźć w każdym sklepie motoryzacyjnym.
Tak, powinny działać wysokowytrzymałe uszczelki Dirko. Mam tendencję do trzymania się z daleka od uszczelek, ponieważ istnieje ból w tyłku, aby oczyścić, jeśli kiedykolwiek będę musiał wrócić, aby naprawić ponownie, ale w szczypie to zadziała, jeśli nie masz uszczelki OEM. Pozdrowienia z Kalifornii
You saw the verbiage in the good book brother, .2 -.9 is what the meter should read. This is just one of 3 test.. second being putting the meter on the battery and testing the voltage when you rev the bike to 5k and see if your voltage gets into 14v. 3rd being testing the AC current with the bike running and connecting the mete to the stator to see 65 ac current when revved.
james moreno I tested with bike running and at 5k and it just drains the battery I just wanted to double check before taking off the case again. I went through this last October but I have a warranty for both the rec and stator just double checking thanks for the reply
@@drz400supermotoPHX not a problem brother, any time. Just an fyi the batter could also be an issue. Sometimes dead cells can cause the same affect. I ran into this issue one time causing me to purchase the Shori battery which ive never had an issue since. So to recap.. battery, RR and stator is what i had to replaced to get rid of my issue of the battery not charging.. that said it made me wire up a voltmeter which you now see in all my videos to insure my charging system was always working..
james moreno yeah I’m gonna put a volt meter on it and I took the battery first to make sure it was good and it’s good started with the simple thing first which is the battery just wanted to make sure before I crack open the case but at this point I got taking that cover off down to a science lol thanks again man
@@TheChemistDIY it is just according what you are running , the KFX700 checking the stator plug running is 36v to 56v @ 3000 rpm and cylinder compression on the 700 is only 44 to 74 psi so all machines are not the same (check you manual on youtube for specs.
20 or 30 dollars for a brand new stator?It has to be a Chinese copy surely.Ebay has dozens and dozens of new stators ranging in price from £20 UK to £140.Available from Uk,Italy and Germany.But they are all exactly the same and use the same photo .And they are all that same green colour.I have been searching for a stator for my 2008 Street Triple.A new one from Triumph costs nearly £400.
I'm a little confused I was watching another video where he was doing the exact same test and his meter read o l on all three wires and he said that was right you're saying .4 and you're saying yours is right
Hello Rob, im not sure what other videos have informed you but if you pause my video at 1.40 minutes you can see for yourself the range of 0.2- 0.9 is what the Suzuki Manual recommends as the proper working resistance value when testing. Anything other then the recommended resistance range and right underneath that it says to replace it.
@@TheChemistDIY ~ mine does that on the lowest settings of (ohm -200) shows 0.0 on all three black wires when n ot running , but shows 50 to 70 volts just reving it up on all 3 wires ,shows 14.5 v at the battery so what is my problem ?
According to the manual which states .2 is the lowest acceptable reading ..yes. I would start your bike and while running test the AC current by placing your meter prongs on the stator side and see if your getting the 65 AC voltage. just make sure to set your digital meter to AC current and not DC voltage. if you rev the bike up to about 5k RPMs and you don't see at least 65 then you have a stator issue and it may be time to replace.
You finalized your test right here. He is simply telling you what to do as an alternative. Replace your entire charging system and inspect the rest of the system(relays)
Will depend on your bike, get a manual as different bikes can have different specs. The specs for my bike say .1 to.3 so its best to check a manual for your specific bike.
having same issue, the plug between the stator and rectifier was badly melted, now a got the new parts already here, new rectifier, stator and i got a multimeter, testing the old parts i noticied was nothing wrong with the old parts, so trying to figer out what was happening. i think my mistake was doing water blaster on my bike ( honda cbr1000rr 2005 ) and the water went under the seat to the conections behind the battery making the terminals sulfated, i think for long time the systen was working on /off creating all the heat to the plugs
Could be true, sounds logical. My suggestion is anything that can be hard wired, make that move soldering all your connections. After dealing with a few burnt plugs im desided to clip off the plugs, solder them all to their respective wire and added some heat shrink tube and i haven't had a problem since.
I just purchased a new stator, did this test on the lowest omh 200 on my meter. And they all read 0.14/0.15 nothing near 0.04. Now I'm really confused.
Very well stated bro, you get what you pay for that's forsure. There are some parts you can get away with a cheap Ebay special, this is not one of them, the other being the RR.
Melted connector blocks are usually caused by dirty contact pins or trying to draw too much current by fitting too many acessories like extra lights of heated grips or both at once exceeding the output of your alternator and the amp rating of the block. Hard wiring your stator in to the charging system is a BAD IDEA!. what if you need to replace the rectifier or the stator, or what if you have a bad soldered joint? you're just creating a whole host of problems you could solve by fitting an up-rated connector and waterproofing it with some silicone grease! (and decreasing the load on your over-burdened alternator!)
Not a single problem after hard wiring the stator in, and that's since the making of this video. I cant say that will be everyone's cure all solution but that was my experience.
Hey guys, moving forward if you need me to answer any of your questions regarding my DIYs and product reviews you must be subscribed. A small favor to ask for a world of information at your fingertips, Thanks - The Chemist
Bro your videos helped me fix my k5. Just wondering if you have anything on engine rebuilds? Not ready to give up on this bike lol
Demonstration of testing doesn't start until 3:00 in. Just FYI
Thanks for the video, you did a very good example, it would be cool to see the old stator and the numbers you're getting IE prob a "0" like mine! Thanks for sharing.
Dude that was perfect and to the point thank you so much 🙏🏼
Great video short and straightforward to the point.
This was EXACTLY the video I needed to watch! The other videos that I saw required that you take off the stator cover to test.
very good video!! does the 3 white wires matter in which order they go?
Nope, there all the same.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks you
Thank you for the Video, is there a way to connect your 3 white cables with the 3 yellow or you can wire them in anyway ? Thanks
I have an 02 monster 750 sie. I ohmed across the 3 yellow wires and got .4 on every wire. Is it still possible for the stator to be bad? The symptoms are pointing to the stator.
If its not within range the good books recommended range then yes.. Sorry brother, I dont typically respond to those who are not subscribed
@@TheChemistDIY I appreciate the reply
So I just bought a 2005 gsxr 600 and he said stator went bad so he bought new one and put it in and said it worked for 2 days and quit working. Well I bought it the wire harness was pretty bad from wires being cut to add led lights and stuff so I took all that out and put new water proof connectors on and did it all right checked stator and it was reading good but wouldn't work so I opened up stator cover and when he put new one in he didn't put wires behind the metal tab to protect it from flywheel and it ate through some of the wires just like half way so when bike was running it was putting current into motor which is your ground. So I fixed it and now I'm waiting on gasket to put cover back on.. should work. Just FYI yo anyone doing one make sure you put it in right because u could fry your Ecu doing something like that. Luckily I think I'm good..
Wow, yeah you got really lucky. It's always good to go over a used bike after a purchase even though it's running. You just never know what kind of hack job the previous owner did.
I'm looking at this video for the first time and it's 7 years old but do you know why the connection melted and did you fix your motorcycle?
This happens when one or all of three things happens.
1) Stator is going bad
2) RR going bad
3) One of the 3 phase is intermittent
Hard wiring in the stator connections is the best way to resolve this issue. If after hard wiring the melting still occurs, then you know its time to replace the Stator or RR.. test both. Just an FYI a stator can test good but still give you problems like this, Happen to me not to long ago ..
How is your bike running til this day. Do u still got the bike?
Over 110K on the cluster and still putting me back in the seat brother..
Thanks
So on a normal style multi meter with the the one dial , you set it on diode ?
Yes
brownish tin colour, do you mean copper?
If you wanna get all technical about.. yes.. lol
Can you tell me on a K5 750 if this or a rectifier/regulator would cause the bike to die in flight & not start? I can get it to idle when a jump pack is hooked to the battery but it will only idle for rougly 8 seconds until the jump pack shuts off. The battery is good as well. Fuel pump delivery is good & plugs are new.
The battery is used to start the bike. If you start the bike and remove the battery terminals the bike should still run because the stator is supplying the juice. If the bike dies when you remove the terminals then you know the issue has to do with the RR or Stator. But before doing that i would put my meter to the battery and see if im getting 13-14 volts after starting and letting the bike idle. If you dont see that then u know that the battery is not being charged amd again it could be RR or stator. Most of the time its the RR but there are times when the stator goes bad to. You need to check all.. look in my videos for testing each.
I have to exact same volt meter with 4AAs.
Oldie but goodie.. it was a hand me down from my father..
Hello, in my er6 the battery does not charge and I measure current at the stator output and it gives me 7v and up to 28v if I accelerate to 5000 revolutions. It's bad right?
It's hard to say when your testing that way. Better to test the Stator as shown in the video because you see that all values are within spec per your service manual as shown. This rules out the stator as the charging issue unless you have a ground loop short..to test that, the stator need to be on the bike.
Only two systems left after that.. RR or Battery.
I can't really give you a definitive answer because you didn't state how you tested the stator while running. If you're testing the stator while running for AC voltage you should start the bike and disconnect the stater from the harness and test at the connector. This will give you your AC voltage while also removing the regulator rectifier and battery as part of your problem...
The measurement is made with the stator disconnected and the motorcycle started, giving an output voltage of 7 v alternating current. When I think it should give 18 to 20v minimum. And measuring resistance gives 0.2 ohms
@@toni2468 take a look at 3:01 mark in this video. Shows your specs for the charging system.. if your values aren't the same then most likely it's the stator.. if they are.. then move on to your RR but from the looks of it .2 is within spec.. 48v AC is what should be read at stator connector when running, and 12.8v or more at battery terminal..
th-cam.com/video/AdjFyVjwevs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n6qMGkP_FcOkVfmH
Same with the 05 C90T Boulevard
hi sir why my stator of yamaha r1 when i test in ohms its only 0 no resistance, it means busted or shorted???thank you for your responce
Assuming that you have a 3 phase stator, set your digital multimeter to the correct setting for your bike, and tested it as demonstrated in the video then yes, your stator is toast. Most bad stators that have or had electrical issues will show it on the coper winding wires.. some look burnt or have a blackish color but just because it doesn't mean it's not bad, it's just one thing to look for.
From what I can see, the R1 has OEM Stator/Gen has a known issue of failure. So if this is the OEM then this may be the issue why it went out and you may need to replace both.
Ok so I have that same 18 pole stator with that cover I believe please tell me what year and model that is please cause I drilled threw mine
K5 Suzuki GSXR 750
@@TheChemistDIY I sent a video I just don't know how to share it
@@ronstansell993 I didn't get it in my email. You can always upload it to TH-cam under unlisted and just share the link with me. If not then Google drive if you have one..
My connector wasn't melted like yours, but was pretty funky inside, I clipped mine and was wondering if it matters what wires connect to what? Cause when I hook my ohm meter up directly to the wires and rev I'm getting around 60 volts, but when I connect the stator to the bike and check the volts they're low and don't go up at all when I rev? Not sure if it's the regulator, or bad connection somewhere.
And not sure if the wires are just connected wrong, but didn't think it really matters, unless it does, when I clipped I didn't pay attention to what went where.
@@paulburrows2120 What up Paul, no it doesn't matter which of the 3 wires you connect , there is no polarity. It's a bit harder to troubleshoot your issues once you have butt connected but if you have used bullet connections, which come apart; then you are golden. You need to start the bike and while running disconnect the stator wires from the harness and while revving at the bike 5k RPMs test the stator side connections (BE CAREFUL NOT TO SHOCK YOURSELF!) . Here you should see 65v AC.. if you do then you know that it's not the stator and only leaves the RR or battery. Believe it or not a bad battery can still test in a good range (12V) but still cause an issue, This has happen to me twice and that's when I moved to the Shorai Lithium Iron battery seen here th-cam.com/video/I8GIhZRz0os/w-d-xo.html , ( Product Link: amzn.to/3gC4Cc2 ) and after 5 years I still have this battery and haven't had a single issues.
If it's not you're stator or battery then lastly it's going to be your RR.. I suggest not going cheap Ebay special and you can see why here th-cam.com/video/uDhuwCE2Bk4/w-d-xo.html . I have no affiliation with these guys , I found them on the net after a ton of searching and reviewing. While the cost is a bit pricey I do not regret spending the extra coin for this RR, I still have it one my bike and haven't had any more issues with my electrical system.
It's been 5-6 years now and with these purchases I haven't had a single issue with my electrical system. Take it for what it's worth but for me this is the way to go.
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for the quick response! Yeah I don't have a tak so can't really tell my rpm's, about half throttle I'm around 60-70 volts which I'm guessing would be close to 5k so thinking my stator is good.I guess my question prior was I checked the voltage after connecting the stator back to the bike and the voltage was low and didn't increase at all when I reved it up. Is that normal? Thinking it must be why you disconnect before testing but not sure. Also did a diode test on the regulator and thinking I did that right it looked good. And yeah never thought it'd be the battery, it charges up ok, bike will fire right up, but when putting ohm meter on the bike running it loses volts and stays around 11.9-12.2 volts when it should be around 13 or more. How would you test the battery in this situation? Sorry if I'm asking too much, I just don't know what to do really, don't want to fork over 200$ got a regulator and not be the problem.
@@paulburrows2120 every bike has its own quirks and what your experiencing is what I went through many years ago, pain in the ass to track down the problem. This is the reason why I have the digital volt meter on my bike that you see in all my videos, I would never know when the correct voltage was being dumped in and when it wasn't and I could never trust when the bike was going to start.
Loosen the screws to your battery and leave hand tight, start the bike and then remove the +/- leads to the battery, the bike should stay running as normal if your stator is good. Now connect your meter to the +/- leads of the bikes battery harness. Rev the bike up to 5k rpms and see if you get the 13 volts on the meter now. If you don't, then you know you problem is South (RR or Stator).. since you say the stator is good then that only leaves 1 other item in the equation.
If you do then you know the problem lies North (battery).
Always remember that just because something test good on the bench doesn't mean that it is.. the job of the RR is to take the stator AC voltage and convert it the proper DC voltage the bike/battery needs and shunt the rest of the unused voltage. When the RR starts going bad a lot of funky shit starts to happen on both ends of the harness it connected to (stator/battery). It can back flow or provide voltage to the stator causing fried wires/connectors or fried stator.. on the other end of the spectrum it can also fry your battery giving it to much or to little voltage, hence the reason why I always ride with a voltage meter now, you just never know when this is going to occur, but now I have some clue and piece of mind seeing my voltage during my start and ride times.
Now if the battery is bad it can do the same to the RR.. the voltage that is provided from the RR to charge the battery has no where to go if your battery is bad.. causing the RR to work overtime, this new overtime load results in extra heat and cooks the internal parts or the RR and since Suzuki chose to placed it in a poor cooling location, this guy is a goner. (See my relocation video)
Now you Get where I'm going with this.. if one part is bad it's kicking the ass of the other and these two will always remain frien-a-mies, hence why I changed the battery and the RR around the same time in the recording dates of these videos.. it was a losing battery and costing me a shit-ton of money.. it wasn't till I replaced them both at/around the same time did this problem stop for me, ya it was costly but that was one headache I was happy to pay my way out of, kinda like an ex-wife.. lol.
Hope that helps you out brother..
@@TheChemistDIY thanks for all the info man, really appreciate it! I ended hard wiring the stator since it seemed to check out after testing, then hooked everything back up, charged up the battery good, fired er up, put the ohm meter on battery and had 13 volts, have it s lol throttle went up to 14! I've went on a few different rides, put about 100 miles on it and still spitting out the tight volts! So to back things up a bit 2 weeks ago had a flood where my bike was parked, water got to the bottom of the motor and I'm assuming shorted out the connection for the stator, maybe even the RR. But so far so good, and I feel you on the eBay parts from your comment earlier! I've bought cheap coils before and a few other things to save a buck but you get what you pay for! Coils didn't even last a month, and ran like dog shit with em anyways!
I hope you can help me here: I recently bought an 08 zx10 and started doing a bunch of mods: added an integrated tail light, changed the bulbs to LEDs etc. Long story short, while riding around town I stalled the bike and did not want to turn back on. Called a mechanic and told me it was my battery so I went ahead and bought a new one. Yesterday it did not want to start up 2 days after having that new battery installed. Am I looking at the same issue here?
0:05 If the battery dies after riding and it was fully charge then You're running off battery power and the two other components of the charging system has failed. That would be your RR and Stator.
Most of the time the RR is the culprit. I would perform a diod check on the RR.. and this test on your stator. I would also visually inspect your Stator for burnt discoloration on the coils.. usually a good sign it's time for a new one.
One quick and dirty way to see if youret running off batt power is to start the bike and disconnect the battery.. if the bike shuts off then you know youre running off batt power and one OR BOTH components of the charging system isn't working.
@@TheChemistDIY An update as of right now. There was a recall on 08-10 ZX10R. So I called my dealership and indeed the recall is still open for a Voltage Regulator (whatever that means). So it has been ordered and they’ll let me know when it gets here so that they can fix it and go from there.
In your book, does this sound right? Voltage Regulator does that translates to the stator or the RR?
@@klachi7 So RR is short for Regulator Rectifier or Voltage Rectifier. How your charging system works is like this... The Stator is like your altinator if it were in a car.. Through a spinning hub and magnetism, it creates AC voltage. That AC Voltage needs to be coverted into DC to run the bike, its electrical components... and charge the batt . This is the job of the RR.. it takes the AC current and converts it to DC or direct current. Not all the voltage that is "Rectified" is need tho, and some of that excess voltage is dissipated or "shunted" to ground.. All this work causes the RR to get really hot and If the RR is not in a cool location where it gets the most air flow, it will fry itself. For this reason I have moved mine to the front of the RAD...The 04/05 GSXR is well known for killing RRs because of where Suzuki chose to put it, under the back Cowl... hope that helped you out
@@TheChemistDIY good stuff bro’ thank you! I went through the recall for my 08, and they tested it and it’s charging now. After all I don’t think it needed a stator just the rectifier! I still haven’t ridden it as much but time will tell if it’s 100% fixed!
@@klachi7awesome, good to hear your up and running. One quick note before I let u be. One very good investment you are going to want is VISIABLE voltage meter located somewhere on your dash or bars. I can't tell you how much this has saved my ass when it comes to charging issues.
If the volt meter is not displaying 13.8-14 volts during your ride then you know something is wrong and you need to get home QUICK!.. at about 10 volts left in the battery, your bike is going to shut off leaving you stranded..
This just happened to me the other day but because I was able to see the remaining juice left in the batt I knew how far I could ride to get me closer to home and Park in a safe area to where I could get towed.. yes it was a stator issue.. if not for that I would have been stuck on the freeway.
Are you telling us to rev cold engines? Thx but this sounded weird.
What up Ola k, sorry to get back to so late. To answer your question.. yes. Revving your bike to 5k RPMs after worm idle kicks in is not going to harm anything.. after all, do you start your bike in the AM and just ride or do you sit there and wait 15-20 minutes till it reaches the normal operational temperatures of 185-190 degrees..
The bike doesn't have to be stone cold.. just not blazing hot coming back from a ride.. besides I doubt you want to work on a hot bike.. aside from the uncomfortable engine heat it could lead to some nasty burns... Just saying.
Dude i just received a new stator today. Its a trip, they want 120$ for the 91' DR650 stator. But only 40$ for a yamaha warrior 350 stator. Meanwhile it is the same stator. Anyways, great vid dude. Merry Kristmass and all that.
Subix Barbarasson wow, where did you buy it from? thats hella high!
Subix Barbarasson I ran into a something similar issue with the dealership one time. I called the dealership for a new TPS'S and they wanted $100 for 2nd TPS and $120 for the 1st (our bike has 2), why when its same damn part!.. lol. i guess their banking on people being ignorant and not doing there homework.
ayy I got a '90 DR650S. are the YFM Warriors and DR stators really the exact same thing??
I know Suzuki stator and stator cover and burnt connector hen I see one 😂
So the three white wires. They the same does it matter what lead goes where to a plug cause i got to swap a plug over to a good statir with same wires just all white but it has diffrent plug😊
Doesn't matter.. all wires are the same..
When connecting the stator to the regulator/rectifyer, does it matter which wire goes from stator to regulator?
If your speaking of the 3 wires coming off the stator (usually yellow wires) then no. The stator is producing AC current up until the RR, then RR converts to DC and after that point is when polarity matters.
@@TheChemistDIY Thank you. That is what I'm referring to. I didn't think so, but wanted to confirm.
I have the Sam problem today and I was confusing my self but my question is does those 3 white stator wires doesn’t matter which wire it goes to the rectifier right? Coz I didn’t pay attention which one goes as they slip while I was grabbing my flier and next thing happened is 2 came out and I don’t now which goes which pls kindly reply back I need help
Doesn't matter brother, I believe I stated that in the video, but none the less your good. Don't forget to subscribe 😉
@@TheChemistDIY thank you I was so worried about it. Yes I subscribed. I appreciate you. We need more people like you
@@ejmagaoay5267 always here to help brotha! thanks for the sub. Stay tuned.. I have an announcement coming that you not going to want to miss..
When I pull my battery leads my bike dies so I thought it was the stator but I'm getting 4ohms like your good one so what should I check next?
Sounds like you got regulator rectifier issues. Your stator produces AC voltage at 65 volts AC, your regulator rectifier converts The AC current to DC voltage does charging your battery. If your status producing the correct AC voltage and tests just fine then there's only two parts to your system left..
what would cause your wire harness to melt like that? i have had some trouble with wires melting from the stator, and i have no idea why. can you please offer me some advice?
Bad rectifier is usually the culprit.
I need a new cover can you tell me where to order plus need new stator thanks for help
I usually get mine from Amazon, shipping is fast and you can't beat the price. Be sure to grab a gasket as well. Here are two links for you.
Cover
amzn.to/43wBuKt
Gasket
amzn.to/3JTPo2z
@@TheChemistDIY so I'm not lazy just new to this I have a 2007 Chongqing astronautic bansain tpgs 808/818 250 cc moped the trouble is I drilled threw the 18 pole 5 stage stator cover I still can't find one it's it's right side idk what I'm doing if you could help it be totally awesome please and thank you.
@@ronstansell993 to be honest I've never worked on or heard of that scooter. But a bike is a bike and fabrication is fabrication... Shoot me a video of what you are talking about and be very descriptive and I'll see if I could lend my opinion to resolve your issue. Send it to JamesMorenojr@gmail.com and I'll take a look brother..
Great video
My stator is reading 00.1 one prom the another's 00.2 is the stator is bad? also I test ground in diado on the bike is all beep means the stator is bad...?!
Soo, You didn't specify what bike your working on so I can't tell you what's good or bad.
If an 05 like mine then you saw the between values written in the good book and you saw the CONSISTENT readings I was getting on ALL THREE leads on a brand new stator.
If yours (at any lead) is not within that range written in the good, I would replace, and once you get your new stator thest that one so you can see what your baseline readings should be.. including the ground test which I didn't show here.
Hope that helps ya out..
I have recently had my spark plugs replaced with a hotter plugs. Since changing the plugs, when the accelerator is all the way out, my bike spurts like it's not getting enough fuel and the high beam light fluctuates in brightness. Is this a stator issue or a fuel pump/filter issue? Prior to the plugs being changed the bike did not do this. It's a 2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500.
Thanks in advance,
Jerry
What up jerry, running hotter plugs on your bike shouldn't have any bearing on things you described, in fact I run hotter plugs on my bike as well. If you're experiencing sputtering after the exchange of plugs perhaps the gapping on the new plugs may be incorrect or maybe the coil pack is just not fully seated on to the plug.
I remember a time when that happen to me after a sparkplug change and it was as simple as the plug not being tightened down enough and compression was escaping through the spark plug hole... Have you checked all these things?
@@TheChemistDIY .... Thank you very much James. I'll check it out and let you know.
nice tutorial video... i have the same problem but in my case i replace both stator and rectifier and yes i bought it from Ebay so China stator to China rectifier. make sense...
Same here! They are cheap and I still cant keep a charge! Guess i will be buying the more expensive better brand from Ricks
There are a few parts that you can get away with buying cheap, the stator and regulator rectifier are not one of those and you should always get the best money could buy.. you'll thank yourself in the long run.
What kind of bike do u have?
05 GSXR 750
Three wire where you get that to regulator oh CDI DC I ask
If your speaking of/about the OEM harness connector that connects to the stator i bought an entire wiring harness from eBay for $150. If your thinking about replacing your connector i would suggest not to and just hard wire it in. I haven't had a problem since the making of this video.
What it's on the bike but it won't start?
A bike with a good battery and bad Stator should always start... How far you actually travel with those conditions is left up to God 🙏
What kind of bike is it
I have a 800 valcan doing the same.
This test will work on any 3 phase stator. My bike is an 05 GSXR 750
If your burning up plug connectors, I highly suggest hardware. after I did this I've never had another stator issue
@@TheChemistDIY thank u for info.
i have checked the ohms and continuity everything is fine as in service manual..... but. my rectifier is over heating..... AC voltage is about 32 at 1500 rpm.... when i rev at 5000 rpm AC voltage is more than 75...... need help
Burnet 2 rectifier already
What up brother, I'll be more than happy to help you out to resolve your issue but please subscribe. That said.. let's get into it.
You didn't mention what bike you have so I'm taking it's a Gixxr. You mentioned that the RR is overheating so I'm taking it that you harness connectors at the RR and or Stator are warping or melted.
1. This is a common issue because of the stock location, it just doesn't get enough cool air under the tail and needs to be relocated to the front of the radiator. I have a video on and can be seen here th-cam.com/video/8GUM-dAw8Io/w-d-xo.html
2. It sounds like your RR is on its way out, especially if your battery is not charging and even more so if your harness is frying. There is a way to test the RR and the diods within but I don't have a video on that but can be found easily with a TH-cam search. 90% of the time it's going to be your RR that's the issue. I suggest getting a new one.. and I do have a video on the one I purchased 5 years ago and haven't had a problem since.. see that here. th-cam.com/video/uDhuwCE2Bk4/w-d-xo.html
In that video I Tell how to diagnose a few issues with charging relating with RR issues. Check it out.
3. The other 10% is stator and or bad battery. If it's your battery then test or have it tested. I replaced mine with this one and can recommend. Haven't had a new battery since. That video found here
th-cam.com/video/I8GIhZRz0os/w-d-xo.html
If you need more details on how to test each subscribe and hit me back.. favors for favors brother :)
so......? what must be the problem
my rr is new just replaced......my battery voltage is also good (12.5)as well as charging voltage is also good (14.4).... stator ohms is 0.5 (service manual is 0.4-0.6) continuity is also good (no connection with Earth))
@@kumzimchen2276 I had a previous subscriber come to me, his comments are somewhere down below(or another video). He purchased himself a brand new RR (eBay special) and claimed it was good just because it was brand new. I asked him if he tested it to ensure that I was working properly, he said no... Its brand new.. I told him just because something is brand new doesn't mean it's functional when you receive it, You should test.. he was on the right path and had the answer.. the RR was bad, but so was the new one... Here's a good video on Forward & backwards testing your RR.
th-cam.com/video/NTjumDgixkQ/w-d-xo.html.
I can't really tell you what the problem is because everything requires testing but it sounds like you know what you're doing. Here All you've stated is that your RR is overheating. Well, they do get hot And if not properly cooled will overheat and not charge the batt, it will burn out the internal circuitry causing all sorts of other issues. You haven't stated an actual problem, just that regular rectifier gets hot.
Which issue is yours:
1.) Is your battery not charging.
2.) Are your connectors, wiring harness.. burned, frying, or warping.
3.) Does your battery charge at times and not others leaving you stranded.
4) does your bike crank or have slow crank and causing the battery to be drained.
5.) Does the bike just shut off during your ride.
6.)is your battery holding a charge or is low after your ride.
I can't tell you where to start with just..overheating RR. How do you know it's overheating.. there's no temp sensor for it. See what I'm getting at?
What does it mean if my voltage is spiking? In my case my headlight bulb on my 2006 Road Star keeps burning out. I tested it at just over 17v at the connector, during idle. It duplicates my reading at the battery terminals, while idling, on my charging circuit. I haven’t tested the regular rectifier, for the condition on the diodes.
I also haven’t tested the stator for shorts or grounds yet.
@@YamahawgDawg sounds like you know already know what you have to do brother. My first test would be the RR. Sounds like it's not shunting the excess voltage to ground giving you more juice at the terminals then you should have. If you are in need of a replacement regular rectifier I suggest you spend the extra dough and get yourself a MOSFET.. I have a video on that and the supplier I went with.. still have the same RR in that video in today..
@@TheChemistDIY I don’t have a digital meter with the diode setting, I’m going to get one tomorrow. I have the connector off at the regulator rectifier, I checked the three white wires for ground across each wire, It’s indicating a ground. If those are the wires going the stator, it shouldn’t indicate a ground, right?
@@YamahawgDawg correct.. you may also want to trace those wires and make sure none of the shielding is bear and causing it to ground out. That happen to me one time.. but only because the RR was bad and heating up the wires causing the insulation to melt. . Remember.. an RR going out will take out everything on both sides of it making you think the other parts are the issue when in fact it's just the RR.. found that out the hard way after replacing two stators, two batteries and one wiring harness..
Hello James, friend, I have a query ... you know how much is the exact amount of hydraulic fluid that must have the forks of the Suzuki Gsxr 750 k4 and what type or brand of hydraulic fluid should it be?
Black Fox, good tobhear from you. The service manual say "Use fork oil SS-05 or equivalent fork oil" .. exact words from the book. Doesn't say anything about a particular brand.
james moreno Thank you very much but I still have doubts about how much is the hydraulic fluid quantity that I should apply ..
Black Fox, did a little research and this is what i came up with
www.gsxr.com/13-tech-performance-chat/76118-fork-oil-wt.html#/topics/76118?page=1&_k=nezdjq
Black Fox this one too
www.gsxr.com/13-tech-performance-chat/33636-2005-gsxr-600-fork-oil-level.html#/topics/33636?page=1&_k=ipqohn
Black Fox .. here is a video you can purchase forb $4.. might be worth the investment.
www.onthethrottle.com/howto/04-05-gsx-r600-750-fork-service-download/
should the resistance of 3 wires be equal?otherwise it doesnt work proper charging.i experience it from my old stator.is it correct>?
Ive never ran into an instance where each phase gave a different reading, technically they should all read the same if new. If each reads within spec then you should be good, out of spec is when you have a problem.
@@TheChemistDIY ya it was old stater and the resistance was on two phase .08 .08 & another .07 simultaneously was not charging properly but when i changed it with new one it is charging properly.
So if my meter reads all 0’s my stator is bad correct?
Yup,.. Ka-put i believe is the technical term..
I didnt have a spark on my 08 te250, bought new stator got spark, bike runs but not charging battery, stator from chine has 3 yellow and 2 wire crank sensor, thought might be cheap stator. Bought $300.00 oem stator from husqvarna and wires are different and dont match plug on bike.
Well the plug should match up if the sale was for your bike specifically. Do you need the plug..NO.. as you can seen from my video I cut mine off so I wouldn't have to deal with the melted connection in the future. The plug may not match because some companies think for example the k6/k7 and some 1000s are compatible and there not.. so they posted as such.
What does matter is the correct voltage that the stator produces and the fact that it bolts up to your housing. The number of wires from the stator should match the number of wires on your harness.
If your battery is not being charged then that means your regulator rectifier is damaged as well as it is responsible for converting the AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage which the battery and bike requires.
I have an artic cat melting the wires on the rectifer and can't figure out why. It charges at 13-14v and I tried 2 uesd rectifiers and they also get really hot. Would it be a bad stator?
Have you pulled apart the stator to see if the coil windings are burnt or discolored in any way, if not I would check that first. Secondly I would remove the stator connector and hardwire the 3 wires in with butt connectors. The OEM type connectors are cheap and can not handle the heat and voltage and often melt causing the internal pins to touch frying your rectifier and harness. The reason why the rectifier gets hot is because its in a poor location with little access to moving wind to cool the unit, thus it gets extremely hot causing it to burn up taking your harness and connector with it, I would highly recommend you relocate it to the front of the radiator where it will always receives cold air to keep it cool as I did. Lastly, stay away from eBay special RR's, these things are junk and will cause you more headache than anything. Spend the extra cash and buy the MosFet RR, you won't regret it..
james moreno I haven't removed the stator to see the condition but thats my next move. Thanks a lot for the info!
So all wires are grounds no wrong way to connect correct?
Not grounds just no specific polarity when connecting .. no you cannot connect them wrong.
@@TheChemistDIY by chance do you know if the wiring on the rectifier is similar ?? Appreciate it
@@bear4u2nite not sure what side of the RR you speaking of.. one side of the RR connects to the Stator this is the 3 wires that have no polarity.. you can hard wire them up as you please without worry..
the other end is up in the rear seat (left side of bike) by the RR which if you have a GSXR like mine has a 5 pin connector.. that connects to the bikes wiring harness.. theres only one way to connect that if you have the OEM connectors.
@@TheChemistDIY the side with 5-6 wires all mine are yellow
@@bear4u2nite So here is what there suppose to look like... th-cam.com/video/NM4MD4PHnUk/w-d-xo.html , I made this video after my harness fried.
the fact that there all yellow is not important, it just mean the wires had fried at one time and someone has replaced them.. Im sure you can trace them back to locate where the splice took place.. What is is that your trying to achieve and why is the wire color important.. If I had a better idea of what your doing then perhaps I could help you out
Do you have a video on how to test a r/r? My stator on my 01 gsxr 1000 is testing good but I am not getting a charge. I am running a new battery
Kyle, sorry brother I do not have one that I did myself, to me it seems like you've already solved your problem of your bike not charging tho. if you tested the stator power output while the bike is running and it was good, tested or replaced the battery and good, all connectors are good...by process of elimination the only thing left is the RR... putting your meter on the battery while the bike is running will only prove that.. it all runs in a str8 line.
engine---stator---RR----batt.
james moreno after more testing today I found that my signal wire to the r/r is only showing
.12v I’m assuming that means something is wrong in my harness?
@@kylewilliamson6228 sorry brother i must have overlooked yoyr comment. Did u resolve the issue. Im not sure what wire your speaking of. Please give me a little more detail what ur testing.
james moreno I tested the stator and it’s within spec on resistance and making 60+v. I know that battery is good and I’m getting power all of the way to the r/r. The only thing I can think of is the r/r must be bad. I’ll know tomorrow when the new r/r comes in.
@@kylewilliamson6228, ya RRs can cause you a shit-ton of problems especially if your purchasing the ones from ebay. They work for a few months and then burn up taking out ur harness. This is just one of those parts you don't go cheap on and i learned the hard way by having to replace it 3-4 times until i finally wised up, bit the bullet and got the good MOSFET.. never had an issue since.
Hey good video .. So it dont matter which order you hook the wires back to you regulator ? thx
Correct, i suggest hard wiring it in, havent had a problem since
hey my dude my 07 gixxer wires are getting hot i changed the rectifier a month ago then my stator recently you think my old stator fried my rectifier?
What up brother, if your connectors or wiring or related harnesses are melting then yes, it could be because you RR is on its last leg and back feeding the juice it should be disappointing to ground. If you swap out the RR be sure to get a Mosfet RR rather then a cheap Ebay quick fix or youll be back in the same boat a few months down the line.
Take a look in my video arsenal of the one i purchased, i believe it was an FHA20 Mosfet (video will tell you) . After that one ive never needed another. Also consider relocating it like did as well (video will explain that to)
@@TheChemistDIY u right brother. I'm glad I purchased the MOSFET FH020AA RR.. going year and half still pushing. I purchased it after I saw ur video. Thanks my brother 🤟🏼 love your content, I've learned alot from you!
How is ur bike?
Chris, I appreciate the props brother, glad I could help you out. I believe I'm going on 5 years now with the FHA RR without a single issue. I'm not that guy who will just put out bullshit videos to make you purchase something from my Amazon affiliate links or a partnership I have going on with someone else. When a product just works I'm going to bring it to you whether I have a piece in it or not. In the case of the FHA.. not a single dime was given to me and I purchased my own part and just had to let you all know this was the to go.
Is your stator OEM or is it after market? Does it matter which one I buy?
Carlos Morelos, the one you see here is aftermarket, eBay spacial. Brand wise it does not matter. Also, it does not matter if has the white connect or just the 3 wires. I don't use the plastic connectors anymore as they tend to get fried with all the heat and current.
james moreno awesome that’s good news I have a 2007 R1 that stoped charging not too long ago. You got a good style on your videos keep them coming.
Carlos Morelos awesome bro, glad to see your interested in performing the job on your own. Replacing the stator is a simple fix, and doing it yourself is going to save you some serious cash enabling you to put more money into your bike rather than putting it into a shops pocket. Just remember to use blue thread lock on the 3 bolts that hold the stator to the cover and you should be good. Thanks for subscribing
@@TheChemistDIY you said in a previous comment that the brand does mayter. You said mosphet was a good brand similar to oem
When it comes to these three parts, (your battery, your regular rectifier, your stator) You're going to want to purchase something of quality and not go cheap. If you're having regulator rectifier issues then yes I highly suggest you check out the website I mentioned to purchase yourself a quality MOSFET RR.
Everything you see in this video is still on my bike to this day and I've had no further issues with my charging system.
you forgot to say HOW to connect the VOM when engine running IE one lead to one leg of stator wire , WHERE do you connect the other lead ? to ground or to other lead from the stator wire ?
Put your meter on AC voltage/current.. Now Start the bike and let idle, disconnect the stator connection from the harness, ie.. Regulator Rectifier.. Place the positive and negative leads of your digital metter into any two pin locations on the stator connector while running. Rev the bike to 5K rpms and you should see 65 volts AC on your meter. Do this on the remaining pins testing all.. no matter how you rotate your probs across all three pins, you should always see 65volts on your meter..
Hope that helps
Czym uszczelniasz wyjście przewodów z pokrywy. Jestem właśnie na etapie wymiany statora.
Niestety, tłumaczenie google nie działa poprawnie, czy pytasz, jaki rodzaj uszczelniacza można użyć do zastąpienia uszczelki OEM, jeśli tak, to będzie czarny silikonowy uszczelka samochodowa, który można znaleźć w każdym sklepie motoryzacyjnym.
james moreno Pod pokrywę dam uszczelkę oem. Gumkę z przewodami elektrycznymi uszczelnię masą VictorReinz lub Dirko. Dziękuję. Pozdrawiam z Polski
Tak, powinny działać wysokowytrzymałe uszczelki Dirko. Mam tendencję do trzymania się z daleka od uszczelek, ponieważ istnieje ból w tyłku, aby oczyścić, jeśli kiedykolwiek będę musiał wrócić, aby naprawić ponownie, ale w szczypie to zadziała, jeśli nie masz uszczelki OEM. Pozdrowienia z Kalifornii
I checked mine I’ve been having issues and they r all reading .01 ohms being .01 off like that does it mean it’s bad?
You saw the verbiage in the good book brother, .2 -.9 is what the meter should read. This is just one of 3 test.. second being putting the meter on the battery and testing the voltage when you rev the bike to 5k and see if your voltage gets into 14v. 3rd being testing the AC current with the bike running and connecting the mete to the stator to see 65 ac current when revved.
james moreno I tested with bike running and at 5k and it just drains the battery I just wanted to double check before taking off the case again. I went through this last October but I have a warranty for both the rec and stator just double checking thanks for the reply
@@drz400supermotoPHX not a problem brother, any time. Just an fyi the batter could also be an issue. Sometimes dead cells can cause the same affect. I ran into this issue one time causing me to purchase the Shori battery which ive never had an issue since. So to recap.. battery, RR and stator is what i had to replaced to get rid of my issue of the battery not charging.. that said it made me wire up a voltmeter which you now see in all my videos to insure my charging system was always working..
james moreno yeah I’m gonna put a volt meter on it and I took the battery first to make sure it was good and it’s good started with the simple thing first which is the battery just wanted to make sure before I crack open the case but at this point I got taking that cover off down to a science lol thanks again man
@@TheChemistDIY it is just according what you are running , the KFX700 checking the stator plug running is 36v to 56v @ 3000 rpm and cylinder compression on the 700 is only 44 to 74 psi so all machines are not the same (check you manual on youtube for specs.
20 or 30 dollars for a brand new stator?It has to be a Chinese copy surely.Ebay has dozens and dozens of new stators ranging in price from £20 UK to £140.Available from Uk,Italy and Germany.But they are all exactly the same and use the same photo .And they are all that same green colour.I have been searching for a stator for my 2008 Street Triple.A new one from Triumph costs nearly £400.
I'm a little confused I was watching another video where he was doing the exact same test and his meter read o l on all three wires and he said that was right you're saying .4 and you're saying yours is right
Hello Rob, im not sure what other videos have informed you but if you pause my video at 1.40 minutes you can see for yourself the range of 0.2- 0.9 is what the Suzuki Manual recommends as the proper working resistance value when testing. Anything other then the recommended resistance range and right underneath that it says to replace it.
If he was getting 0.0 ohms on all terminals either his meter is on the wrong setting or the stator is dead!
@@TheChemistDIY ~
mine does that on the lowest settings of (ohm -200) shows 0.0 on all three black wires when n ot running , but shows 50 to 70 volts just reving it up on all 3 wires ,shows 14.5 v at the battery so what is my problem ?
my kfx 700 misses and cuts out could the stator do that
i tested the stator.. all 3 wires r 0.01 omh is that bad???
According to the manual which states .2 is the lowest acceptable reading ..yes. I would start your bike and while running test the AC current by placing your meter prongs on the stator side and see if your getting the 65 AC voltage. just make sure to set your digital meter to AC current and not DC voltage. if you rev the bike up to about 5k RPMs and you don't see at least 65 then you have a stator issue and it may be time to replace.
You finalized your test right here. He is simply telling you what to do as an alternative. Replace your entire charging system and inspect the rest of the system(relays)
Will depend on your bike, get a manual as different bikes can have different specs. The specs for my bike say .1 to.3 so its best to check a manual for your specific bike.
Has anyone used them cheap ebay one . Are they about the same as stock or
The one you see in this video is an ebay special and it's still in the bike till this day..
can a bad rectifier damage stator coil
Yes sir, and a whole bunch of other electrical things as well.
Change everything all at once buddy. Trust me. Save you a whole lot of money and time.
nice...
having same issue, the plug between the stator and rectifier was badly melted, now a got the new parts already here, new rectifier, stator and i got a multimeter, testing the old parts i noticied was nothing wrong with the old parts, so trying to figer out what was happening. i think my mistake was doing water blaster on my bike ( honda cbr1000rr 2005 ) and the water went under the seat to the conections behind the battery making the terminals sulfated, i think for long time the systen was working on /off creating all the heat to the plugs
Could be true, sounds logical. My suggestion is anything that can be hard wired, make that move soldering all your connections. After dealing with a few burnt plugs im desided to clip off the plugs, solder them all to their respective wire and added some heat shrink tube and i haven't had a problem since.
Thank you
I just purchased a new stator, did this test on the lowest omh 200 on my meter.
And they all read 0.14/0.15 nothing near 0.04. Now I'm really confused.
Yes that is odd, arevu sure u have the correct stator for your bike.
ola lindo video ,brasil ...você poderia traduzir este vlideo para poutugues? obrigado
3.15 you’re welcome
I only got 800 miles out of my ebay stator, 05 boulevard JUST PAY MORE FOR A GOOD ONE OR GET SCREWED LIKE ME PPL
Very well stated bro, you get what you pay for that's forsure. There are some parts you can get away with a cheap Ebay special, this is not one of them, the other being the RR.
Good effort but Do the homework first
Melted connector blocks are usually caused by dirty contact pins or trying to draw too much current by fitting too many acessories like extra lights of heated grips or both at once exceeding the output of your alternator and the amp rating of the block.
Hard wiring your stator in to the charging system is a BAD IDEA!. what if you need to replace the rectifier or the stator, or what if you have a bad soldered joint? you're just creating a whole host of problems you could solve by fitting an up-rated connector and waterproofing it with some silicone grease! (and decreasing the load on your over-burdened alternator!)
Not a single problem after hard wiring the stator in, and that's since the making of this video. I cant say that will be everyone's cure all solution but that was my experience.
Lol jeez get to the point
Wooo..slow down brother.. slooow down.. its not sex, it requiresa little fencesing....lol
Thanks for commenting
Thanks