If your Harley-Davidson isn’t charging then it doesn’t always mean it the stator. I walk you through how to diagnose whether the issue is the battery, stator, or voltage regulator.
Here’s another tip. Open the derby cover. If you get a bad smells like electrical burning. More than likely your Stator is going out. You can do all the test you want and they may pass. But from my experience open up the derby cover if you can smell that electrical smell pull the primary cover off and look at the Stator you’ll see it’s starting to burn, some of the coils could be black or all of them indicates a bad Stator. I’ve seen this on Harleys and imports more than you know. Most the time when you do the test you’re usually done at cold or warm up run the bike for a while when it gets really hot and then the test start to fail,
Thanks needed it! Info is on point and very easy to follow. Looking fir a good mechanic in Cali.. funny harley shops dont really work on later year bikes. 1st Harley.. 04 electra glide Classic. Rode dirt mostly as a kid then bought my 1st Gsxr 750 slingshot when i was 17. Lost alot of friends, riding stupid.. put bike up, had kids n i kinda felt my number was up. Turned 50 , i told myself yeaes ago when i did i was buyng a Harley and i love it!!! Mostly ride to clear head.. i figured my 1st bike would be my learning bike and it has bigtime. But having guys like you out there droping solid info to help is just plain Awesome! Thanks again Jerry Norwalk Ca
He left that out for some reason. Maybe start the bike and see what the voltage is at the battery. Possibly disconnect the Neg cable while running. If it shuts off then you know its either stator or regulator. If the stator passes all the checks he showed. Then its the regulator. Trust me on this. You don't want it to be the stator. That is a three hour job for me. Not hard just taking the whole primary off is a lot to keep track of. Cardboard for the hardware is a must as many are different lengths.
@@playsportfun3356 I was going to ask if the meter can test the diodes in the Harleys. I understand that the rectifiers in different models can have other electronics built into the units that complicate diode testing in rectifiers. I don't know if this applies to Harley makes or not. Is this something that you are knowledgable about?
Thank you very much for the information and making everything so clear. I've always felt intimidated electrical issues. I never had the confidence to attempt a repair. You made things very simple for me and I really appreciate it. 👍
Same scenario happened to me yesterday on Mt Hood. Major bummer. No way to jump had to be towed 1-1/2 hrs. back home. Thanks for the vid brotha! Will apply this!
This was a great video, and answered some questions… I’m having the same issue with my sportster only thing is that my bike is completely dead, I can’t test the stater on start up electrical doesn’t work not even my speedometer lights up. Hopefully these tests will help me diagnose the problem.
I’ve had this issue twice now on my road king. New battery.. month later while riding my bike just shut off. All tests came out in spec with a donor battery. Had my battery tested and it was bad. Put in new battery. Month later same thing. Bike went dead while riding. Haven’t tested battery yet. I’m sure it’s fried again. So I ekther got 2 duds off the shelf that took a shit after a month…or I have something in the charging system spiking intermittently and frying the battery. Let me know what you figure out
The last test you did with the test light, you used a digital one, if I use the old style where it's a probe then the other end is a clip would I clip it to ground like normal?
Great help, thanks. Is there a test for crank position sensor?. I know it not electrical, but it does start the bike, or prevent it from starting if it is defective. How can I tell?
So on the part 5:30 and after where it’s testing if there’s something grounded from the stator inside the primary… mins had readings. On all 3 holes. Do I need a new stator or do I need to find the part that’s grounding?
I have tk keep bump starting my bike. Original battery was low. Got a new one and cranks but doesn't start. I'll be picking up a meter tomorrow but would the bike still run with a bad stator with a bump start?
Thanks for your time but I would like to see a test on the regulator . We can assume it is the issue but there should be a test maybe a bench test to check input and output.
Hey Rick, question? Just brought a 2007 Harley Davidson Street glide. Check engine light keeps coming on, Harley Davidson dealership can’t seem to fix the bike. Something about a voltage overload. I have a standard radio on my bike and when riding on the freeway and turn my music up to normal check engine light comes on. It’s been to the dealer two times and they can’t seem to fix it. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hi Micky i have a 2014 street Glide and the voltimeter in the faring becomes crazy it marks 14-15 v. I changed the voltimeter regulator but the problem continues so i went to the mecanix and he said that the problem is the battery but the battery it's ok on 12 whit the bike turn off what do You think bro?
Have a 2012 dyna fat bob with this issue I put a new voltage regulator on ran fine for a day then the next day all my lights are back on sator is good any ideas
Thanks man. I’m going to check my sporty out this weekend. One dumb question. After my bike broke down and got jumped. And that out on me just like you explained. Now it won’t start, so do I get jumped again to check the stator with the engine on test?
Hi. Dyna 2001 FXDP I have problem with burning regulators.wiring ground and plus checked. I measuring at minimum stator give 20- 23V but when accelerating it rises above 75- 80 V. In 10 minutes regulator burning. Stator already checked and looking good. Please help. Cheers
Hello Ricky HD I have a 91 Sporty XLH1200, it consists of a single phase stator. The battery is about a year old, I use an HD bat tender, and the starter whips right over. I got back from a ride and smoke is seen down by the shifter. I shut engine down. the 2 pin connector between stator and RR was extremely hot. The reg. shorted the Bat+ wire to ground internally and no continuity between a.c. input and charge wire. there is a circuit brkr between Bat+ and charge wire and wire to ignition The stator is good as its resistance is .3 ohms and puts out around 65 volts at 2500 rpm. I am trying to understand why plug to stator got so hot. thank you very much for your help.
Awesome video... I have a strange issue with my bike. On idle i only get 12.5 to 12.6v charge. When i rev the bike to 1.5k i get around 13v... and at 1.8k rpm i get 14.2v... Stator and rectifiers have been replaced twice, tested stators and no issues. Can bad grounding cause this? Or is this normal with some softails?
When checking voltage, the meter must be set on voltage ( the indicator being a straight line with three lines above it, this indicates direct current or pulsating DC), not current (mA)
This might be dumb but I had the same shit happen. All my gauges died then my lights then the engine. I’m checking the continuity on the stator. They all read 0.01 except for one of them which was 0.00. As long as it doesn’t say open line still am I good or is the 0.0 bad still?
Hi Ricky! I found this video extremely helpful while helping my brother troubleshoot an electrical problem with his 2000 Ultra Classic. His has only two wires between the Stator & Regulator and although they showed good on the ground test and the connectivity test, when we did the AC Voltage test, we could only muster 2.3 Volts out of her. The Service Manual suggests that this is either the Stator or Rotor. Is this bought as two separate pieces? Mechanics around here aren't that forthcoming with info! LoL! Thanks
Thank you. I have V IRR , battery at plus 14, maybe and dead cell on load but Diagnostic skills had me with the battery is 4 plus years, so bought a 220 cca , Voltage 3 phase. 3 triangles X 2 wired and 2 wires that is as far as where I needed help , your video was fucking cool, just the facts. Again thank.
On a buell, battery is good. But! Within a 5 mile ride I can't watch my voltage hold a good 14.v then, float at 13.2, then 12.6, finally 11.8. But, when I let it rest, it's back at staring voltage.. Im grabbing another multimeter and checking after i get it towed from work back home, but...Vr or stator?
Outstanding video. Exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you. FYI: Your flag is displayed backwards. The union should be to the upper left. 🇺🇸👍🏻
I have found that a 5 yr old battery can lose voltage. You may have a bunch of crazy shit going on electronically. It may not always be a stator issue. Stator's do not work like a alternator on a car. If a battery is crap you wont get constant voltage. If you have electric issues keep in mind your battery life and how it was maintained for multiple years will and can cause some crazy shit.
Dude my bike is starting up fine and about 15 minutes in to a ride it just dies I just replaced stator and v regulator when I try to start it after it dies it’s got no spark what are your thoughts
What about bike off at battery & bike running at battery? Accurate, yes no? If yes, how important is rpm for testing. Most opinions are 2k? Is that correct? Or should it show a voltage increase even at idle?
'05 Harley deuce, all troubleshooting is done. stator check 16-24v at idle runs at 8.6v, some concern there, running volts to battery up to 14.3v. battery at rest 13v less than a year old. Bike backfires sometimes, mostly on decel, not frequent but often enough for troubleshoot. One concern of diode test, at black/ground wire side, OL in both directions, no clue on that one unless this has special electronics that can't be test, positive side good both directions. All said and done, has a 47 milliamp leak, takes about 6 weeks (winter) then a hard-slow startup. drain seems to be inside the fuel tank toward the rear of the tank, hear it when I touch black ground cable to battery. HELP
Frankly, I think anyone who rides should have a very good idea of these issues and when they do their oil & filter change service the air cleaner, check spark plugs, putting a meter across the battery to see state of charge would also be a good idea.
Thanks for a great video. I get occasional buttery and obviously check engine light on then disappears. So far happened 3 times in one month. First time 5min second about 15 then went away on its own. Last time for 20 minutes until I came to the stop and tested charge it was below 12 volt. I shut it off let it sit for 10 min and it started and charges fine now for a week already. Tested stator the way you show in this video and it passes everything except it gives me reading on ground continuity test when bike is running. I get OL when bike is shut off but not when it’s running. Thoughts ?
Hey man, I want to ask something. I have a 48 sportster which has a problem when I push the gas on a high rpm sometimes the headlights flicker and the engine feels like it drops and sometimes the engine suddenly stops, so i have to keep it on a low rpm to avoid the engine to shutdown. Is it the stator problem? Or maybe from the combustion? Please help me because I am very confused right now 😅
My voltmeter bounces a lot (bad gauge) everything cut out except headlight on i4 one night check volts barley charging jumped on checking regulator it showed good but I found bad clean ground and the drag specialties battery had bad cell new amg battery and tight grounds no issues
What about the other end of the voltage regulator ?? Like, what if everything is good up to the regulator but then there is a break between the regulator and.......... The battery..I guess ??? If that an option ??
@@RickyHD I changed yesterday the rectifier and the battery just in case and the bike now is working great. No battery or engine sign on the speedometer. Thanks God it's not the stator . That's bro for your video it help a lot
Big HELP. My 2019 Road King lost complete power while I was riding it. The head lamp (not high beam) keeps burning out (3 bulbs). I bought a meeter and will perform all these test. I'll send a follow up to what I find. Thanks, Joe
@@michaelvalenzuela9468 I took the bike to Harley Davidson and they found an O-2 Sensor problem. Corrected the issue via computer and I haven't had an issue since. Thanks for checking.
Thank you so much tryna narrow the issue down. I was riding on the freeway after work. It was raining. Bike shit down started up again and shutdown. After it just clicked ! But would start with a jumper cable. Batt reads 12.4 volt. After I try starting it with the cables it would drop and I’d have to leave it charging. And then all the lights would stay on. Blinkers brake lights.
@@michaelvalenzuela9468 Very strange and crazy that you have to worry about that at high speeds on the highway... I didn't want to take the bike to Harley, I was afraid that they would drag out the testing and their hourly rates aren't cheap. But, I'm glad I took it in. Good luck. You tend to lose confidence in the bike
First off, thanks for the video. I have a 2000 Fat Boy. It has 2 leads on the plug going from the stator to the regulator. When I do the continuity test, from each lead to a bolt on the frame, I get 1500+ on the meter, instead of no change. Q: stater is bad?
If a battery has a dead cell, it won’t have 12v or above. You’re looking at 9-10 volt, if it has a dead cell. Batteries normally have 6 cells, equating to 2volts a cell.
Ricky, at 8:45 your multimeter is set to read current (ammeter), not voltage (voltmeter). The display confirms this - you're reading a tiny 13mA, not 13V. NEVER connect an ammeter across your power source. As an ammeter is an extremely low impedance device, you are creating a circuit with infinite current which will immediately blow a protection fuse - either in the meter or on that charger pigtail. Either one of the aforementioned fuses is blown or that battery is totally dead. Great info on testing the stator though. Thank you.
Here’s another tip. Open the derby cover. If you get a bad smells like electrical burning. More than likely your Stator is going out. You can do all the test you want and they may pass. But from my experience open up the derby cover if you can smell that electrical smell pull the primary cover off and look at the Stator you’ll see it’s starting to burn, some of the coils could be black or all of them indicates a bad Stator.
I’ve seen this on Harleys and imports more than you know. Most the time when you do the test you’re usually done at cold or warm up run the bike for a while when it gets really hot and then the test start to fail,
You break it all down very simply and to the point you've definitely got a new subscriber
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS RICKY. VERY CLEAR AND SIMPLE EXPLINATIONS, EASY TO UNERSTAND WELL DONE .
Thanks needed it! Info is on point and very easy to follow. Looking fir a good mechanic in Cali.. funny harley shops dont really work on later year bikes. 1st Harley.. 04 electra glide Classic. Rode dirt mostly as a kid then bought my 1st Gsxr 750 slingshot when i was 17. Lost alot of friends, riding stupid.. put bike up, had kids n i kinda felt my number was up. Turned 50 , i told myself yeaes ago when i did i was buyng a Harley and i love it!!! Mostly ride to clear head.. i figured my 1st bike would be my learning bike and it has bigtime. But having guys like you out there droping solid info to help is just plain Awesome! Thanks again Jerry Norwalk Ca
That was great very clear , however I would have loved to see a test on the voltage regulator unit ,
He left that out for some reason. Maybe start the bike and see what the voltage is at the battery. Possibly disconnect the Neg cable while running. If it shuts off then you know its either stator or regulator. If the stator passes all the checks he showed. Then its the regulator.
Trust me on this. You don't want it to be the stator. That is a three hour job for me. Not hard just taking the whole primary off is a lot to keep track of. Cardboard for the hardware is a must as many are different lengths.
Only way to test regulator is to look while motor is running if the battery is charging at about 14 volts. If so.... It's working....
@@HarleyTrikeinFloridahe could use his meter to test the 4 one way diodes in the rectifier.
@@playsportfun3356 I was going to ask if the meter can test the diodes in the Harleys. I understand that the rectifiers in different models can have other electronics built into the units that complicate diode testing in rectifiers. I don't know if this applies to Harley makes or not. Is this something that you are knowledgable about?
Thank you very much for the information and making everything so clear. I've always felt intimidated electrical issues. I never had the confidence to attempt a repair. You made things very simple for me and I really appreciate it. 👍
Great video. This is 100% exactly what happened to my bike. You video made troubleshooting very simple!
Same scenario happened to me yesterday on Mt Hood. Major bummer. No way to jump had to be towed 1-1/2 hrs. back home. Thanks for the vid brotha! Will apply this!
Simple and easy to follow. Well done brother.
electrical has always been my weakness, the way you explained it was easy to understand and I'll know tomorrow what up on my bike. thanks
Very clear to the point and helpful. Thanks for this tutorial
Aye, first and foremost I send mine. Video was hella helpful. Clear, and concise. Straightforward. Sssstttrrraaiigttt up! Much thx from the 916.
Thanks for the video, very easy to follow and helpful
Very good video with very good direct instruction. That was a good call posting this up man!
My dude thank you so much for breaking this down and making it easy to understand.
Very cool , thanks for this vid man. I didn't know how to do any of this stuff before I watched this vid.
Great video, nailed the problem with my voltage regulator. Great to check the charging system with confidence. Thank you for the education.
Great video. Appreciate the way you lay it out.
Exactly what I needed to know.. and in a way I understand.. thank you 💯
Thanks for the clear instructions on testing. I'm headed to the garage to do this myself! Really need some wind therapy ❤
Finally someone that gives clear explanation thank you so much
I mistakenly watched a Harley sponsored video first. Confused me bad, was about to order stator. Watched yours, and fortunately it’s just my regulator
Thx man... definitely the best version of this information I've seen easy to understand and straight to the point...thx much
Great explanation!! I learned a lot. Cheers from Germany.
Very thorough explanation. Great video.
Diagnostics 101 bro, great little video!
Awesome informative video watching from Nz
I did exactly what you said and you were on point. Thank you.
This guy is great. Super clear👍👍👍
Bro!!! You are the man! Thank you so much for this video!!!!!!!
Great tips bro. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I can do mechanical stuff but I’m horrible with electrical. This was a huge help
Great Video as always Ricky HD. You Da Man.
Great video brother, thank you for posting it!
Great video man. Thank you!
Thanks brother helped my old arse out big time, been trying to figure this out on my fxdx cheers! 👌✌️
Great tutorial Ricky 👍
Hi Ricky, thanks for this cool Video. Greetings from Germany!
Thanks for your help,so clear even I can get it 😅
Thanks Ricky - EXACTLY what I needed to know, and how to do it !
Thank you brother that was very helpful 🤘🏍️🏁😎🇺🇸
Excellent job Brother.. 👍🏻🍀
Great instruction ! Thanks 👍
This was a great video, and answered some questions… I’m having the same issue with my sportster only thing is that my bike is completely dead, I can’t test the stater on start up electrical doesn’t work not even my speedometer lights up. Hopefully these tests will help me diagnose the problem.
I’ve had this issue twice now on my road king. New battery.. month later while riding my bike just shut off. All tests came out in spec with a donor battery. Had my battery tested and it was bad. Put in new battery. Month later same thing. Bike went dead while riding. Haven’t tested battery yet. I’m sure it’s fried again. So I ekther got 2 duds off the shelf that took a shit after a month…or I have something in the charging system spiking intermittently and frying the battery. Let me know what you figure out
Thanks your video help me alot to diagnostic my bike save me couple hundreds preciate it bro thanks 🎉
Good clear info thank you sir
Great video! Thanks dude
thank you . thank you and thank you!!this video saved me 800+ dollars.!!! Thank YOU!!
I’ve been looking for a video like this… thank you for making things so clear and concise!
Will the rectifier/voltage regulator prevent power from going to the cluster in ignition mode. I get power in accessories mode. 87 evo softail
Thanks for the vid, having some issues was wondering if it's voltage regulator or stator by the codes.
Thank You Sir ! Good video
The last test you did with the test light, you used a digital one, if I use the old style where it's a probe then the other end is a clip would I clip it to ground like normal?
Great help, thanks. Is there a test for crank position sensor?. I know it not electrical, but it does start the bike, or prevent it from starting if it is defective. How can I tell?
Great video
So on the part 5:30 and after where it’s testing if there’s something grounded from the stator inside the primary… mins had readings. On all 3 holes. Do I need a new stator or do I need to find the part that’s grounding?
Dude-thank you!
Good vid. Thanks😊
I have tk keep bump starting my bike. Original battery was low. Got a new one and cranks but doesn't start. I'll be picking up a meter tomorrow but would the bike still run with a bad stator with a bump start?
Thanks for your time but I would like to see a test on the regulator . We can assume it is the issue but there should be a test maybe a bench test to check input and output.
Hey Rick, question? Just brought a 2007 Harley Davidson Street glide. Check engine light keeps coming on, Harley Davidson dealership can’t seem to fix the bike. Something about a voltage overload. I have a standard radio on my bike and when riding on the freeway and turn my music up to normal check engine light comes on. It’s been to the dealer two times and they can’t seem to fix it. Any ideas on what it could be?
Hi Micky i have a 2014 street Glide and the voltimeter in the faring becomes crazy it marks 14-15 v. I changed the voltimeter regulator but the problem continues so i went to the mecanix and he said that the problem is the battery but the battery it's ok on 12 whit the bike turn off what do You think bro?
So I have a small buggy I believe it has a stator does the stator charge the battery even when I’m running lights on the buggy ?
Have a 2012 dyna fat bob with this issue I put a new voltage regulator on ran fine for a day then the next day all my lights are back on sator is good any ideas
Well done. Thanks.
Thank you!! I learned…
Thanks loved it ur good👍
Thanks man. I’m going to check my sporty out this weekend. One dumb question. After my bike broke down and got jumped. And that out on me just like you explained. Now it won’t start, so do I get jumped again to check the stator with the engine on test?
Any ideas what to look for if I’m blowing 15 amp ignition fuses??
My 93 ultra has a 2 plug stator to the regulator it only puts out 25.8 ta 2000 rpm so is that ok and bad regulator?
Hi. Dyna 2001 FXDP I have problem with burning regulators.wiring ground and plus checked. I measuring at minimum stator give 20- 23V but when accelerating it rises above 75- 80 V. In 10 minutes regulator burning. Stator already checked and looking good. Please help. Cheers
Hello Ricky HD I have a 91 Sporty XLH1200, it consists of a single phase stator. The battery is
about a year old, I use an HD bat tender, and the starter whips right over. I got back from a ride
and smoke is seen down by the shifter. I shut engine down. the 2 pin connector between stator
and RR was extremely hot. The reg. shorted the Bat+ wire to ground internally and no continuity between a.c. input and charge wire. there is a circuit brkr between Bat+ and charge wire and wire
to ignition The stator is good as its resistance is .3 ohms and puts out around 65 volts at 2500
rpm. I am trying to understand why plug to stator got so hot. thank you very much for your help.
Awesome video... I have a strange issue with my bike. On idle i only get 12.5 to 12.6v charge. When i rev the bike to 1.5k i get around 13v... and at 1.8k rpm i get 14.2v... Stator and rectifiers have been replaced twice, tested stators and no issues. Can bad grounding cause this? Or is this normal with some softails?
When checking voltage, the meter must be set on voltage ( the indicator being a straight line with three lines above it, this indicates direct current or pulsating DC), not current (mA)
This might be dumb but I had the same shit happen. All my gauges died then my lights then the engine. I’m checking the continuity on the stator. They all read 0.01 except for one of them which was 0.00. As long as it doesn’t say open line still am I good or is the 0.0 bad still?
Hi Ricky! I found this video extremely helpful while helping my brother troubleshoot an electrical problem with his 2000 Ultra Classic. His has only two wires between the Stator & Regulator and although they showed good on the ground test and the connectivity test, when we did the AC Voltage test, we could only muster 2.3 Volts out of her. The Service Manual suggests that this is either the Stator or Rotor. Is this bought as two separate pieces? Mechanics around here aren't that forthcoming with info! LoL! Thanks
Great video!
Thank you
Thank you. I have V IRR , battery at plus 14, maybe and dead cell on load but Diagnostic skills had me with the battery is 4 plus years, so bought a 220 cca , Voltage 3 phase. 3 triangles X 2 wired and 2 wires that is as far as where I needed help , your video was fucking cool, just the facts. Again thank.
Are you doing all the tests with the trikkel charge on and connected??
Thank you ! Thank you!
On a buell, battery is good. But! Within a 5 mile ride I can't watch my voltage hold a good 14.v then, float at 13.2, then 12.6, finally 11.8. But, when I let it rest, it's back at staring voltage..
Im grabbing another multimeter and checking after i get it towed from work back home, but...Vr or stator?
Outstanding video.
Exactly the information I was looking for.
Thank you.
FYI:
Your flag is displayed backwards. The union should be to the upper left. 🇺🇸👍🏻
I have found that a 5 yr old battery can lose voltage. You may have a bunch of crazy shit going on electronically. It may not always be a stator issue. Stator's do not work like a alternator on a car. If a battery is crap you wont get constant voltage. If you have electric issues keep in mind your battery life and how it was maintained for multiple years will and can cause some crazy shit.
Dude my bike is starting up fine and about 15 minutes in to a ride it just dies I just replaced stator and v regulator when I try to start it after it dies it’s got no spark what are your thoughts
Cant you check the stator while the bike is running if your getting 14 volts ? On the battery?
Good stuff
What about bike off at battery & bike running at battery? Accurate, yes no? If yes, how important is rpm for testing. Most opinions are 2k? Is that correct? Or should it show a voltage increase even at idle?
'05 Harley deuce, all troubleshooting is done. stator check 16-24v at idle runs at 8.6v, some concern there, running volts to battery up to 14.3v. battery at rest 13v less than a year old. Bike backfires sometimes, mostly on decel, not frequent but often enough for troubleshoot. One concern of diode test, at black/ground wire side, OL in both directions, no clue on that one unless this has special electronics that can't be test, positive side good both directions. All said and done, has a 47 milliamp leak, takes about 6 weeks (winter) then a hard-slow startup. drain seems to be inside the fuel tank toward the rear of the tank, hear it when I touch black ground cable to battery. HELP
Find a better ground for the meter.. engine off your stator unplugged from regulator.. probably shoes resistance.. same thing as a ground ( bad)
Frankly, I think anyone who rides should have a very good idea of these issues and when they
do their oil & filter change service the air cleaner, check spark plugs, putting a meter across the battery to see state of charge would also be a good idea.
Thanks for a great video. I get occasional buttery and obviously check engine light on then disappears. So far happened 3 times in one month. First time 5min second about 15 then went away on its own. Last time for 20 minutes until I came to the stop and tested charge it was below 12 volt. I shut it off let it sit for 10 min and it started and charges fine now for a week already. Tested stator the way you show in this video and it passes everything except it gives me reading on ground continuity test when bike is running. I get OL when bike is shut off but not when it’s running. Thoughts ?
The light is controlled by the rrgulator
Have HD dealer put a scan tool, on the ECM. youll know in a sec, if anything is wrong or even if there are hidden codes, good luck.
What if I’m getting a ohm reading from leg to ground while runnin
Did this test and my stator was reading 16.00, bad stator?
Hey man, I want to ask something. I have a 48 sportster which has a problem when I push the gas on a high rpm sometimes the headlights flicker and the engine feels like it drops and sometimes the engine suddenly stops, so i have to keep it on a low rpm to avoid the engine to shutdown. Is it the stator problem? Or maybe from the combustion? Please help me because I am very confused right now 😅
My voltmeter bounces a lot (bad gauge) everything cut out except headlight on i4 one night check volts barley charging jumped on checking regulator it showed good but I found bad clean ground and the drag specialties battery had bad cell new amg battery and tight grounds no issues
Can a bad voltage regulator cause your battery to over charge and start leaking acid?
What about the other end of the voltage regulator ?? Like, what if everything is good up to the regulator but then there is a break between the regulator and.......... The battery..I guess ??? If that an option ??
Thanks for the video. Is the bike going to shut down while it's on if the stator not working and battery empty while driving ???
Yes the bike will die if the stator or rectifiers fried bro!
@@RickyHD I changed yesterday the rectifier and the battery just in case and the bike now is working great. No battery or engine sign on the speedometer. Thanks God it's not the stator . That's bro for your video it help a lot
Big HELP. My 2019 Road King lost complete power while I was riding it. The head lamp (not high beam) keeps burning out (3 bulbs). I bought a meeter and will perform all these test. I'll send a follow up to what I find.
Thanks, Joe
Any luck
@@michaelvalenzuela9468 I took the bike to Harley Davidson and they found an O-2 Sensor problem. Corrected the issue via computer and I haven't had an issue since. Thanks for checking.
Thank you so much tryna narrow the issue down. I was riding on the freeway after work. It was raining. Bike shit down started up again and shutdown. After it just clicked ! But would start with a jumper cable. Batt reads 12.4 volt. After I try starting it with the cables it would drop and I’d have to leave it charging. And then all the lights would stay on. Blinkers brake lights.
@@michaelvalenzuela9468 Very strange and crazy that you have to worry about that at high speeds on the highway... I didn't want to take the bike to Harley, I was afraid that they would drag out the testing and their hourly rates aren't cheap. But, I'm glad I took it in.
Good luck. You tend to lose confidence in the bike
First off, thanks for the video. I have a 2000 Fat Boy. It has 2 leads on the plug going from the stator to the regulator. When I do the continuity test, from each lead to a bolt on the frame, I get 1500+ on the meter, instead of no change. Q: stater is bad?
If a battery has a dead cell, it won’t have 12v or above. You’re looking at 9-10 volt, if it has a dead cell. Batteries normally have 6 cells, equating to 2volts a cell.
Ricky, at 8:45 your multimeter is set to read current (ammeter), not voltage (voltmeter). The display confirms this - you're reading a tiny 13mA, not 13V.
NEVER connect an ammeter across your power source. As an ammeter is an extremely low impedance device, you are creating a circuit with infinite current which will immediately blow a protection fuse - either in the meter or on that charger pigtail.
Either one of the aforementioned fuses is blown or that battery is totally dead.
Great info on testing the stator though. Thank you.
He never plugged the regulator back in to test the charging voltage either. that should be about 14.6volts'