Instead of buying new switches and clusters, I cleaned out and greased my kill switch and starter cluster during a throttle cable replacement. When I started the bike, the low beams were much brighter and all of a sudden, my high beams were working too!! Amazing what a little bit of cleaning will do for our bikes.
This is the finest kind of video available on TH-cam. Practical common sense ideas like I see here are what makes the world go round. When I was sixteen years old working for an electrical company in Miami Beach we had a guy that not only did the repair to what was happening to the wall circuit, he knew how to assess what was happening in the whole deal with why something wasn't working. He would straighten out the whole deal. We sure did dump out a lot of lint traps down inside the washer or dryer that the customer had. This harness stuff is exactly what he would have shown me if we were involved with this stuff. JUST WONDERFUL!
TIPS: - Keep terminals tight. - Keep terminals CLEAN. - Keep wires and wire looms properly wrapped, fixed and protected. - DO NO pull terminals by their wires. - Protect terminals with a very light film of Vaseline, or any other commercial product of your preference. The first option is simply dirty cheap and readily available. Now to help cleaning those pesky brass fittings. If using "mechanical means". Example: Dremel with a small wire wheel make short work of having bright shiny metal staring at you. A wire brush or sand paper (>400) do the job, its just more work. For those inaccessible terminals inside plugs, females, etc.use (light) acidic solutions! Some examples of very effective safe and readily available acids, in any house. Vinegar, mustard, lemon juice... For what it's worth you can consume them. That's how safe it is. ;-) - Vinegar being a liquid is ideal to deep parts while soaking them. - Mustard has the advantage of the thicker consistence. You can apply on vertical surfaces, etc. Enjoy. Cheers
Can you help me? I was tinkering with the wire of my bike's horn. One side was corroded, so I decided to cut it and replace it with a new wire at the same spot. Initially, everything seemed fine, but at a certain point, my bike suddenly stopped turning on. The screen didn't light up, and although I could start it using the kickstarter, the lights remained off. However, the engine was running normally, just without any screen display or lights.
Thank you For sharing knowledge. Some may know and think it's common knowledge, But for many it's not. I'm 1.And appreciate you taking the time to share information.
Just want to update. Lots of people never do. It turn out to be a wire from my rectifier to battery. While battery was reading 12.5 the wire thru the plug was reading 8.1 volts. Changed out the wire and inline fuse even though it wasn't blown and all is happy in my world. Because i never thought a single wire especially a thicker wire would've cause the havoc i was dealing with I replaced my stator, rectifier, and battery. My big takeaway is lesson learned but i learned so much about my bike by digging into engine parts and building confidence working on something i never have. Plus I'd say I'm a bit of a genius with the ol' multimeter now 😂😂
Cody, you are soo right.. few years ago I had my H Shadow at 2 different service shops for electrical issues and none of them were able to figure it out. One of them even told me to sell it for 300 Euro and be happy. So , I went home and started to inspect everithing from handlebar switches to the battery and found several rusted contacts in the terminals of the fusebox, (the fix was super easy and it is running perfectly ever since). But from that moment on, I have done all small task/maintenance by myself. Only if I would have some engine failure, I will probably go to a repair shop. I even purchased few 1983 oldtimers , and I have a running project for a cafe racer with H CB250N, and the Yazamha XJ550 is beautifull as it is, so I will just restore few parts.
A friend of mine had electrical problems with his Suzuki SV1000. The dash was crazy, the light and indicators didn't do what they were suppose to. He went to a garage who "went through the whole electrical system" and couldn't find anything wrong, therfore it must be the ECU, they said. Expensive! I said to him, "check the wiring, maybe it's a loose end or bad earth?" He did and found a loose connection at the rear light under the seat, plugged it back in again, and result! Cheap! Now, that garage will probably not see any of us again!
Ive given up on taking any vehicle to a certified mechanic garage. They only rip you off. Only time i use a certified mechanic is when i know exactly what the problem is an i know exactly what needs done an parts an its to big of a job to do in my own garage myself. I do feel bad for those not mechanically inclined. Its easy stuff really like a lego set, just follow instructions, youtube is good for this.
I'm your brother's from Malaysia, I'm so lucky bcoz God give me chance to watch your videos in TH-cam and make me so happy , that my main benelli electrical problem for 3year...I pray to God, may God bless u and your all family, and may God give good health and more happiness in your life and your family... Amin, amin, amin.. I'm islam and i will say from my bottom heart amin for 3times.. for Christian religion say Amen. Tq so much bro❤
Thankyou from a Christian. We must live with love for one another. Even when cultures clash we must come to under standings. Peace an love from a Christian in Michigan.
DeOxit D5 spray. I am an electronics repairman, and I couldn't live without it. Won't help your worn out or loose connections, but it sure helps with oxidation.
Great stuff - I was once left on the side of the road by my MC that had a total loss of power. EVERYONE I talked to said "Oh it might be this component that died" or "check the fuses" and guess what it was.....a loose terminal on the battery. I'd added a trickle charger and didn't put any sort of lock tite on the thread and after about a year, it had wiggled itself loose. That's all it was.
I just saw this! Low tech, common sense approach to all things connected my friend. I signed up for your course. I have been riding for over 50 years and did a LOT of trail side surgery BUT always tr to learn more. Thank you for this and the great course I have coming. Stay safe and well in this new year.
Honda had an internal TSB captioned "a new twist on connectors", back in the early 80's. It worked wonders and the cars weren't even that old. Just a couple of years. If we got to the connector too late, and it was melted, either 2 harnesses needed replaced or you did what we did where I worked. We would cut the wires out of the connector and solder them together. It was a lot faster and cheaper than replacing 2 harnesses. It also got rid of the poor connection that caused the over heating.
I have a 660 Tenere and I'm at my 4th regulator in two years and my second in two weeks. Two times I hade it changed in Paris, one time in Morocco and the last time in Spain. It was awful, I went from Paris to Morocco and remained stranded 3 time because of this... Every mechanic didn't want to listen to me and the fact that it's defintly a problem that causes all these electrical problems... My thought was that it's the plug, but every one said it was ok... The first problem started after a ride in the rain and water got in and burned the regulator. I got am original one and put silycone in the top of the plug to prevent water from getting in, but it failed on the higway, 200km from home... New regulator, but the problems persisted... Now I'm going to order a new plug and have it changed and will se what happens!
Thank you so much. You have single handedly saved me time, money and from going mad. Had a starting issue on my daughter’s KLX140. No spark. I was convinced it was a dodgy coil and was about to buy a new coil after days of testing coil, relays & solenoid. Watched your video and systematically went through all the plugs. Bingo! A couple of pins on my CDI were looser than a hookers money maker. I pulled the connectors out squeezed them up and reconnected. The bike is running like new. Im now subscribed and booked in with your training 👍 Thanks again.
ALWAYS use a quality corrosion inhibitor on your connectors when taking them apart regardless of how old or new your bike. Be careful to not make a mess but always.
@@billbecher311 Yes, DeoxIT D5 which is available at electronics stores or online. It’s a spray. Or easier to find and probably longer lasting on the connections.. Ideal Nolox which you can get in the electrical isle at a Home Depot. It is a gray pasty liquid and comes in a small squeeze bottle. I’ve used it for years on my bikes with good results. I use a toothpick to apply it on the terminals. A few ounces lasts forever.
@@billbecher311- You probably already have a readily available home solution for that. Vaseline. A thin amount, just a film, is more than enough to keep it all impeccable. From battery terminals to... had your choice. A tiny pack will last ages. ;-)
There is a liquid called Noalok it’s a fluid when applied to connections, rids the connections of the oxidation film disallowing a proper electrical bond ! ( there is one chemical made for aluminum and another for copper ) use of this can eliminate electrical issues on a motorcycle wiring !
Owned my DT50MX for 23 years, 70% of my wires are solderen or changed to Abiko insulated terminals, I even solder the wires after crimped insulated terminals. Never seen a wire problem the last 15 years.
good vid cody ...i have several motors that i bought cheap and fixed a wiring harness problem in minutes. i buy bikes that generally have simple wiring harnesses to work on i ride them a few years and sell them at parts bike prices.
This happened to me - the connector from the ignition switch was burnt/melted probably because of this exact reason. The connector was melted inside, and the wires sleeve had burnt so it was well beyond this fix - so I basically soldered the wires together and all good. The other alternative is a whole new wiring harness, which is way more cost/work.
something i was told a long time ago, "if it comes apart it can corrode" a tiny bit of antiseize for bolt and di-electric grease on connectors goes a long way to help. any ideas cody, good idea/bad idea?
Honestly I cam a big fan of silicon spray. It is a "dry lube" that sprays wet. Makes everything from rubber to plastic slide easy into position then drys. Di-electric grease is great but so many people use it the wrong way. It is inteaded to seal the connectors on the outer sides, not packed into the terminal ends and shoved together. Even though you can use it like that, less is more!
What products and process do you recommend using and doing if the connectors already show signs of corrosion? How and what do you do and use to clean them
@@billbecher311 - I just wrote this on another comment. Deep them in vinegar. Possible uses, put vinegar on a small bowl deep the terminals/connectors. If the accessibility don't allow the usage of a bowl. Simple plastic bag held close with a rubber band, can sometimes suffice! ;-) If the position is not practical do deep/soak the part(s). You can use mustard!! Yes the thicker mustard can be applied in a slanted or vertical position and stay there for awhile. Just enough time to make it bright & shiny! ;-)
Hi, this was a very informative video. I own a TVS Ronin 225 CC recently something has went wrong with the electronic but no service centre is able to help me. So the problem is when I put the keys in and turn it the Dial would not turn on, I need to shake bike to get it on (like move into main stand and rapidly move it out) also sometime when I push the self ignition button the Dial will go out.
I don't hate the electrical part of a motorcycle. Well, I'm very biased. I'm an electronic engineer. I do understand what happens with the electric parts and how to fix it or replace it if that's really the case.
All vehicles have been loaded with sensitive electronics yet vibration, heat, and rain will destroy. Crazy hey?.... one reason why I love my 40 year old ride, it's very basic when it comes to the electrical system.
My 1992 XTZ660 Ténéré was stored for 10/15 years and the previous owner wanted to send her to the scrapyard. I refreshed the bike, clean the carb and voila, running bike with lots of power. Now, studently, stopped and never started again. It has spark, clean carbs (again) thus having fuel (wet spark), has good compression and doesn't start. The spark is too weak and even with starting fluid doesn't want to start. They are very cool bikes, but the electrical part on them sucks specially after the all these years.🤦♂ Love the bike though. 😅
Hi Thks four your excellent video I have a Vespa lx 50 all my lights working fine just the speed meter dash not working I check all bulbs all ok I change four new speed meter still the same the dash lights not.came on any help thanks
I have a strange problem with my Royal Enfield Himalayan, battery warning light came on so checked the RR and generator all fine. I removed the headlight fuse to conserve battery and warning light went off all working fine, put it back and not charging.. Head scratching time!
I have a no crank situation am trying to diagnose on my motorcycle, I've changed the battery, starter relay, I have a good engine ground the starter motor spins when benched testing it yet when I push the starter switch nothing happens the starter relay just clicks. All components in the starter circuit check out ok but the bike won't crank. I think I've figured it out to an earth fault because when I press the starter switch with a multimeter across the battery terminals am getting a very large voltage drop from the battery sitting at 12.26 volts to pressing the switch it drops to around 6.30 volts. Definitely an earth fault but all wires are ok in the circuit as well😔
Hello TheMotorcycleMD, I had to replace my ignition switch due to a failed theft on my bike. However I was really slow to get to it because of low funds and got back to repairs almost 2 years later. I thought the display wouldn't turn on due to a dead battery. I bought a new battery and checked the voltage. I plugged the new battery in and... nothing. No display lighting up, no starter sounds when pressing the button. Just dead. I am sure that the theft attempt did not touch any other components of my bike. What am I doing wrong?
I have a 1978 Kawasaki 1000 Z-1R. Was given to me. Hasn't run in 8 years. Put a new fully charged battery in it. When I turn the key all I get is the tail light. Nothing up front or to the starter. Checked all the fuses. All good. Maybe I missed a main fuse? Any help is appreciated.
I have a 1980 Yamaha 3 cylinder, 850cc. I replaced the main control box 2 times. The cycle will start sometimes. Sometimes it will start if you pull the clutch lever in. How many safety switches is in the wire harness. It has always been stored in a heated garage. Please help…. Thanks very much.
Thank you for the tip I am just fixing to go through every connection on my vl 1500 but let me ask a serious question can the bike run without half the sensors I haven't messed with it in a while but it seems to be missing the tip over one of the fresh air so if it's anything like they did my mower it's never going to run and I am wasting my time
I’m new to bikes . I have a 125cc moped and it feels 50% power. So I changed the air box thinking it had an air leak… then had to up jet. And still 50% power… ive gone around the bike and it seems that my CDI unit is gone: going .. after research I’ve understood that CDI can make this happen ( mis fireinf & power problems ) Now .. I hope it’s this 🤣 as there not cheap
I’m actually struggling with some electrical problem my radiator fan is not working properly! Sometimes spins sometimes no….I did check/clean the connection but still work just randomly….I change the fuse nothing change then i bought a new fan nothing changed…I bought a new thermostat nothing changed…then i was checking the ECU because actually the fan getting signal from there, was everything nice clean an tight…I have no any other idea what to do…I also was in 2 different service and they can’t see what is the problem the only thing they can do to install a side button for me to turn on/off the fan by myself what I don’t really want 🤦🏻♂️ btw it’s a gsxr 750 2008
My 1993 CBR 1000F just died on me on the road. i replaced the voltage regulator. The bike is charging. The fuse box is getting 11.9 -12.2 from the ignition switch but the battery reads 13.9 at 5000 rpm. I know the ignition switch will get either dirty or worn and not send the correct voltage to the regulator and it sends too much voltage to the battery and can do damage. How do i clean the ignition switch or do i replace? same problem with my 1982 Gl500 silverwing.
Great video, I ended up replacing my coil because two cylinder wouldn’t fire and not a second did I think it may have been the cdi, once I changed my coils the bike started and fired all four cylinder but then suddenly stopped and I’m getting no pulse, I can hear the fuel pump click but nothing with the current, can you help me understand if this could be the cdi ? Previously my bike wouldn’t rev past 10rpm and would choke really badly
Hi!!! I've a nighthawk 750 and doesn't want to pass more than 5,000rpm in any gear, already replaced IcM, spark plugs and nothing has change. Last thing I'm gonna try is testing the coils. I need help cause I love the bike but is driving me nuts!!!
Hey bro, just asking if you got any tips regarding my current issue. So, my bike has power but neither push starting nor kick starting had any response like, totally dead, nothing. I tried jump starting it through the starter relay and it started but it need constant apply to the throttle to keep it going. The moment you let go of the throttle, the engine dies. I also heard something like an eletrical clicking under my gas tank. Any idea if this is just wiring problem or some components needs replacement? Thank you!
I bought a 93 Goldwing, rode it 60 miles back home, park, then it won't start at all. It turns on the motorcycle, crank but won't start. I bought a new solenoid, but it's doing the same thing, sounds the same. It won't turn over and start. Is this a starter issue or a low battery or something else? Please help.
well noted.. since I was revisiting your channel I decided to go check the free course you were offering but hey the PC security just warned me of some suspicious credential hacking activity?? hmm...can a motorcyclist do another something like that? I think not but pls make sure the subscription system dont make users hardware overreact!..and thanks for the tip..will try checking some connections for my chronical starter issue which I already ordered a replacement ..shame :)
Hi, I need to ask if you can give some idea how to make my 2013 VT750 start. I checked there's a spark. I checked the fuel pump has good strong flow. I don't know how to check the Fuel injection system works. Please help. Thank you. From Sydney, Australia.
Going through a melon scratching drama at the moment , my 2011 XT660R battery hasn’t been charging anywhere near 14 volts , high 12 or low 13 volts is the highest it will go , so it eventually winds down , even after a new stator & new regulator/ rectifier & battery tried the electrical grease , on plugs & fuse connectors.
Hey! I am having the same issue with my 2003 cbr 600rr. New stator and R/R. Only getting low 13V at 5000 RPM. Were you able to solve it on your bike? I am going to do this to my connections and check grounds, hopefully I find the problem!
Hey man maybe you could help me with an answer please ,my husqvarna 701 has a sticking on rear brake light ,would it be good just to change the hydraulic switch on the abs unit ,please reply
I have a wire that is touching metal or something is touching something in the frontend by the radio. Every time I move the frontend fairing the lights and radio turns of then I remove the fairing off the handlebars everything stay on. What is going on here? How can I find this wire
I got a Kawasaki GPZ 500 1998 model, my problem is when it rains I lose power and it stops after a short period of time it then fires back up again then I can continue, have you any ideas what is the problem please?
So tru i have a gsxr 1000r 22 and i noticed i went to turn the bike on all lights came on but when i hit the ignition everything went black im like what the hell so i get on the bike and boom everything comes back on no problem 2 weeks go by im getting ready to leave for work start the bike all lights come on pressing the ignition its trying to start but want im thinking man how much is this gonna cost so of course i said let me check the battery even tho everything is doing what it should just want start took seat and covers off toched the negative connection all good there went to left the red cover that be over the positive my alarm starts going off sure enough i dont know how but the bolt had backed out and the connection was extremely lose tighten everything up and not a problem since
I NEED HELP my bike keeps dying on the road after about an hour of riding... I replaced stator and harness-side female connector since they appeared to have sparked and burnt inside the connection. battery is good, within a year old, and have done the troubleshooting to make sure it holds charge before applying load. some things that happen as the bike starts to die: -pushing past half throttle, the bike acts like i havent given throttle at all -dials go to zero and my small lcd screen numbers disappear, all thats left is the backlight -headlights swell bright to dim in a loop -eventually stalls and wont start back up. leaving me stranded... (K1 Z750 Kawasaki) i also have an error code for Atmospheric (15) and STP (32) sensors any tips?
Instead of buying new switches and clusters, I cleaned out and greased my kill switch and starter cluster during a throttle cable replacement. When I started the bike, the low beams were much brighter and all of a sudden, my high beams were working too!! Amazing what a little bit of cleaning will do for our bikes.
My friend is an electrician . He has a note on the dash of his van . It says , " Is it plugged in ? " . Great tips Cody 👍 .
I ran out of options and this was the last thing I did and it worked, I didn’t know how much trash was build in the connections.
It worked dude thanks
This is the finest kind of video available on TH-cam. Practical common sense ideas like I see here are what makes the world go round. When I was sixteen years old working for an electrical company in Miami Beach we had a guy that not only did the repair to what was happening to the wall circuit, he knew how to assess what was happening in the whole deal with why something wasn't working. He would straighten out the whole deal. We sure did dump out a lot of lint traps down inside the washer or dryer that the customer had. This harness stuff is exactly what he would have shown me if we were involved with this stuff. JUST WONDERFUL!
Really glad you enjoyed it man! That guy sounds like a legend! 🤙🏻 Thanks for the feedback.
TIPS:
- Keep terminals tight.
- Keep terminals CLEAN.
- Keep wires and wire looms properly wrapped, fixed and protected.
- DO NO pull terminals by their wires.
- Protect terminals with a very light film of Vaseline, or any other commercial product of your preference. The first option is simply dirty cheap and readily available.
Now to help cleaning those pesky brass fittings. If using "mechanical means". Example: Dremel with a small wire wheel make short work of having bright shiny metal staring at you.
A wire brush or sand paper (>400) do the job, its just more work.
For those inaccessible terminals inside plugs, females, etc.use (light) acidic solutions! Some examples of very effective safe and readily available acids, in any house. Vinegar, mustard, lemon juice... For what it's worth you can consume them. That's how safe it is. ;-)
- Vinegar being a liquid is ideal to deep parts while soaking them.
- Mustard has the advantage of the thicker consistence. You can apply on vertical surfaces, etc.
Enjoy. Cheers
Can you help me?
I was tinkering with the wire of my bike's horn. One side was corroded, so I decided to cut it and replace it with a new wire at the same spot. Initially, everything seemed fine, but at a certain point, my bike suddenly stopped turning on. The screen didn't light up, and although I could start it using the kickstarter, the lights remained off. However, the engine was running normally, just without any screen display or lights.
When that happened to me, I found out that one wire was broken in the ignition@@reginald4749
@@reginald4749 I'm having this issue did you ever fix it?
Thank you For sharing knowledge. Some may know and think it's common knowledge, But for many it's not. I'm 1.And appreciate you taking the time to share information.
Just want to update. Lots of people never do. It turn out to be a wire from my rectifier to battery. While battery was reading 12.5 the wire thru the plug was reading 8.1 volts. Changed out the wire and inline fuse even though it wasn't blown and all is happy in my world. Because i never thought a single wire especially a thicker wire would've cause the havoc i was dealing with I replaced my stator, rectifier, and battery. My big takeaway is lesson learned but i learned so much about my bike by digging into engine parts and building confidence working on something i never have. Plus I'd say I'm a bit of a genius with the ol' multimeter now 😂😂
Cody, you are soo right.. few years ago I had my H Shadow at 2 different service shops for electrical issues and none of them were able to figure it out. One of them even told me to sell it for 300 Euro and be happy. So , I went home and started to inspect everithing from handlebar switches to the battery and found several rusted contacts in the terminals of the fusebox, (the fix was super easy and it is running perfectly ever since). But from that moment on, I have done all small task/maintenance by myself. Only if I would have some engine failure, I will probably go to a repair shop. I even purchased few 1983 oldtimers , and I have a running project for a cafe racer with H CB250N, and the Yazamha XJ550 is beautifull as it is, so I will just restore few parts.
That's why I specifically went to learn mechanics and electrics.
A friend of mine had electrical problems with his Suzuki SV1000. The dash was crazy, the light and indicators didn't do what they were suppose to. He went to a garage who "went through the whole electrical system" and couldn't find anything wrong, therfore it must be the ECU, they said.
Expensive!
I said to him, "check the wiring, maybe it's a loose end or bad earth?" He did and found a loose connection at the rear light under the seat, plugged it back in again, and result!
Cheap!
Now, that garage will probably not see any of us again!
Ive given up on taking any vehicle to a certified mechanic garage. They only rip you off. Only time i use a certified mechanic is when i know exactly what the problem is an i know exactly what needs done an parts an its to big of a job to do in my own garage myself. I do feel bad for those not mechanically inclined. Its easy stuff really like a lego set, just follow instructions, youtube is good for this.
I had a sv1000s my bike was running good but then the battery died within 5hours of being off it lasted me a week any ideas?
I'm your brother's from Malaysia, I'm so lucky bcoz God give me chance to watch your videos in TH-cam and make me so happy , that my main benelli electrical problem for 3year...I pray to God, may God bless u and your all family, and may God give good health and more happiness in your life and your family... Amin, amin, amin.. I'm islam and i will say from my bottom heart amin for 3times.. for Christian religion say Amen. Tq so much bro❤
Thankyou from a Christian. We must live with love for one another. Even when cultures clash we must come to under standings. Peace an love from a Christian in Michigan.
Cody i have a 1991 honda nighthawk cb750 & you are my go to guy anytime i work on my bike...thank you so much for sharing brother 🇺🇸
DeOxit D5 spray. I am an electronics repairman, and I couldn't live without it. Won't help your worn out or loose connections, but it sure helps with oxidation.
I agree! Cars and bikes share this trait. Start with and rule out all the fundamental or simple things.
Super helpful. This guy uncomplicated a electric potential nightmare 😊
great tip for anyone who messes with any kind of vehicle
Great stuff - I was once left on the side of the road by my MC that had a total loss of power. EVERYONE I talked to said "Oh it might be this component that died" or "check the fuses" and guess what it was.....a loose terminal on the battery. I'd added a trickle charger and didn't put any sort of lock tite on the thread and after about a year, it had wiggled itself loose. That's all it was.
I just saw this! Low tech, common sense approach to all things connected my friend. I signed up for your course. I have been riding for over 50 years and did a LOT of trail side surgery BUT always tr to learn more. Thank you for this and the great course I have coming. Stay safe and well in this new year.
Very good content and advise. One thing that I would suggest, contact cleaner spray and a non-conductive long bristle brush. Clean the connections.
Great tip!
Honda had an internal TSB captioned "a new twist on connectors", back in the early 80's. It worked wonders and the cars weren't even that old. Just a couple of years. If we got to the connector too late, and it was melted, either 2 harnesses needed replaced or you did what we did where I worked. We would cut the wires out of the connector and solder them together. It was a lot faster and cheaper than replacing 2 harnesses. It also got rid of the poor connection that caused the over heating.
I have a 660 Tenere and I'm at my 4th regulator in two years and my second in two weeks. Two times I hade it changed in Paris, one time in Morocco and the last time in Spain. It was awful, I went from Paris to Morocco and remained stranded 3 time because of this... Every mechanic didn't want to listen to me and the fact that it's defintly a problem that causes all these electrical problems... My thought was that it's the plug, but every one said it was ok... The first problem started after a ride in the rain and water got in and burned the regulator. I got am original one and put silycone in the top of the plug to prevent water from getting in, but it failed on the higway, 200km from home... New regulator, but the problems persisted... Now I'm going to order a new plug and have it changed and will se what happens!
If you change enough parts you'll eventually fix it 😮$$$$ very good video thanks for posting
Hay , I had a 83 Honda Shadow Vt750c follow me home . It's keeping me biz..
I just wanted to say thanks for all your help . Thanks
Great video, checked out the course too, awesome information and way more than I imagined. Thanks for keeping the motorcycle community alive
Thank you so much. You have single handedly saved me time, money and from going mad.
Had a starting issue on my daughter’s KLX140. No spark. I was convinced it was a dodgy coil and was about to buy a new coil after days of testing coil, relays & solenoid. Watched your video and systematically went through all the plugs. Bingo! A couple of pins on my CDI were looser than a hookers money maker. I pulled the connectors out squeezed them up and reconnected. The bike is running like new.
Im now subscribed and booked in with your training 👍
Thanks again.
Been throwing money at my bike been watching your videos and gonna try some things you said especially tuning the carb and throttle
The man is 💯right
Excellent video, this is the kind of info people, especially new to wrenching people need. Nice job Cody, thanks.
ALWAYS use a quality corrosion inhibitor on your connectors when taking them apart regardless of how old or new your bike. Be careful to not make a mess but always.
Do you have any recommendations for a quality corrosion inhibitor?
@@billbecher311 Yes, DeoxIT D5 which is available at electronics stores or online. It’s a spray.
Or easier to find and probably longer lasting on the connections.. Ideal Nolox which you can get in the electrical isle at a Home Depot. It is a gray pasty liquid and comes in a small squeeze bottle. I’ve used it for years on my bikes with good results. I use a toothpick to apply it on the terminals. A few ounces lasts forever.
The DeoxIT is mainly used for electronics such as scratchy volume controls on old radios.
@@billbecher311- You probably already have a readily available home solution for that. Vaseline.
A thin amount, just a film, is more than enough to keep it all impeccable. From battery terminals to... had your choice. A tiny pack will last ages. ;-)
There is a liquid called Noalok it’s a fluid when applied to connections, rids the connections of the oxidation film disallowing a proper electrical bond ! ( there is one chemical made for aluminum and another for copper ) use of this can eliminate electrical issues on a motorcycle wiring !
Vinegar does exactly the same... ;-)
Thanks for the video man. I have a stator connector that just won't budge. Is there anything I can do other than replace the connectors?
Wonderful! I used crc electrical cleaner on my computer to get it to boot up.
Four minutes of waffle before any info .
Thanks for telling us. I immediately quit watching.
Thank you for this I skipped the first 4 min😂
Thanks. 3 sec wasted
Thank you again, Sir ✊🏼
This was going to be my exact comment
Owned my DT50MX for 23 years, 70% of my wires are solderen or changed to Abiko insulated terminals, I even solder the wires after crimped insulated terminals. Never seen a wire problem the last 15 years.
good vid cody ...i have several motors that i bought cheap and fixed a wiring harness problem in minutes. i buy bikes that generally have simple wiring harnesses to work on i ride them a few years and sell them at parts bike prices.
This happened to me - the connector from the ignition switch was burnt/melted probably because of this exact reason. The connector was melted inside, and the wires sleeve had burnt so it was well beyond this fix - so I basically soldered the wires together and all good. The other alternative is a whole new wiring harness, which is way more cost/work.
something i was told a long time ago, "if it comes apart it can corrode" a tiny bit of antiseize for bolt and di-electric grease on connectors goes a long way to help. any ideas cody, good idea/bad idea?
Honestly I cam a big fan of silicon spray. It is a "dry lube" that sprays wet. Makes everything from rubber to plastic slide easy into position then drys. Di-electric grease is great but so many people use it the wrong way. It is inteaded to seal the connectors on the outer sides, not packed into the terminal ends and shoved together. Even though you can use it like that, less is more!
What products and process do you recommend using and doing if the connectors already show signs of corrosion? How and what do you do and use to clean them
@@billbecher311 - I just wrote this on another comment.
Deep them in vinegar.
Possible uses, put vinegar on a small bowl deep the terminals/connectors.
If the accessibility don't allow the usage of a bowl. Simple plastic bag held close with a rubber band, can sometimes suffice! ;-)
If the position is not practical do deep/soak the part(s). You can use mustard!! Yes the thicker mustard can be applied in a slanted or vertical position and stay there for awhile. Just enough time to make it bright & shiny! ;-)
Hi, this was a very informative video. I own a TVS Ronin 225 CC recently something has went wrong with the electronic but no service centre is able to help me.
So the problem is when I put the keys in and turn it the Dial would not turn on, I need to shake bike to get it on (like move into main stand and rapidly move it out) also sometime when I push the self ignition button the Dial will go out.
Excellent job. Good explanation and at an understandable pace.
Great common sense advice. Much appreciated. Keep making your videos
I don't hate the electrical part of a motorcycle. Well, I'm very biased. I'm an electronic engineer. I do understand what happens with the electric parts and how to fix it or replace it if that's really the case.
this video was very informative, and through, literally 20/10 man!!! thank you!!
Very good tips! Very well explained!! Right on!
Your absolutely my mechanic god 🙏🏾 🙌🏾 thx again
Haven’t watched yet but I already know it’s a good video thanks kody I think that’s ur name
All vehicles have been loaded with sensitive electronics yet vibration, heat, and rain will destroy. Crazy hey?.... one reason why I love my 40 year old ride, it's very basic when it comes to the electrical system.
My 1992 XTZ660 Ténéré was stored for 10/15 years and the previous owner wanted to send her to the scrapyard.
I refreshed the bike, clean the carb and voila, running bike with lots of power.
Now, studently, stopped and never started again.
It has spark, clean carbs (again) thus having fuel (wet spark), has good compression and doesn't start.
The spark is too weak and even with starting fluid doesn't want to start.
They are very cool bikes, but the electrical part on them sucks specially after the all these years.🤦♂
Love the bike though. 😅
Hi Thks four your excellent video I have a Vespa lx 50 all my lights working fine just the speed meter dash not working I check all bulbs all ok I change four new speed meter still the same the dash lights not.came on any help thanks
Good tip, thanks! Will take that course, too.
Great common sense advice. Much appreciated. Keep making your videos....
Comment to increase algo strength. 👍🏼 - Thanks again Cody, God Bless.
Great video, Thankyou for taking the time to share your knowledge
I have a strange problem with my Royal Enfield Himalayan, battery warning light came on so checked the RR and generator all fine. I removed the headlight fuse to conserve battery and warning light went off all working fine, put it back and not charging.. Head scratching time!
Thanks, bud. Really solid tip. Appreciate you making this content.
I have a no crank situation am trying to diagnose on my motorcycle, I've changed the battery, starter relay, I have a good engine ground the starter motor spins when benched testing it yet when I push the starter switch nothing happens the starter relay just clicks. All components in the starter circuit check out ok but the bike won't crank. I think I've figured it out to an earth fault because when I press the starter switch with a multimeter across the battery terminals am getting a very large voltage drop from the battery sitting at 12.26 volts to pressing the switch it drops to around 6.30 volts. Definitely an earth fault but all wires are ok in the circuit as well😔
Hello TheMotorcycleMD, I had to replace my ignition switch due to a failed theft on my bike. However I was really slow to get to it because of low funds and got back to repairs almost 2 years later. I thought the display wouldn't turn on due to a dead battery. I bought a new battery and checked the voltage. I plugged the new battery in and... nothing. No display lighting up, no starter sounds when pressing the button. Just dead. I am sure that the theft attempt did not touch any other components of my bike. What am I doing wrong?
Check all fuses.
Much love from kenya ,big fun!!
Thanks for the information.
I just solder more often than not if I am doing any electrical additions or changes.
Excellent video and great tips/tricks! Thanks for sharing!
I feel like your earlobe after watching this
Pretty straightforward. Thanks brother!
Thank for the tips this goes a long way for us diyers and and new biker rides and beyond !
I have a 1978 Kawasaki 1000 Z-1R. Was given to me. Hasn't run in 8 years. Put a new fully charged battery in it. When I turn the key all I get is the tail light. Nothing up front or to the starter. Checked all the fuses. All good. Maybe I missed a main fuse? Any help is appreciated.
Multimeter
Hi am from Mauritius am in the retail store of motorcycle spare parts and also do repairs
Great video, Cody. Hows that Honda CL350 tracker build coming along? I feel like we haven't seen that bike in a while.
You and me both Dave! It’s around. I have a customer build KZ I’m working through now. He’s been way more patient then the 350 lol
I have a 1980 Yamaha 3 cylinder, 850cc. I replaced the main control box 2 times. The cycle will start sometimes. Sometimes it will start if you pull the clutch lever in. How many safety switches is in the wire harness. It has always been stored in a heated garage. Please help…. Thanks very much.
Hi Cody, is that a Honda 305 dream behind you in your last video, wow they were something back in the day.
Cody your the best
You are dude!
14 minutes and four commercials later…………………….check connections, your welcome 🙏
Nailed it on that one. Take care.
Thank you for the tip I am just fixing to go through every connection on my vl 1500 but let me ask a serious question can the bike run without half the sensors I haven't messed with it in a while but it seems to be missing the tip over one of the fresh air so if it's anything like they did my mower it's never going to run and I am wasting my time
I’m new to bikes . I have a 125cc moped and it feels 50% power.
So I changed the air box thinking it had an air leak… then had to up jet.
And still 50% power… ive gone around the bike and it seems that my CDI unit is gone: going .. after research I’ve understood that CDI can make this happen ( mis fireinf & power problems )
Now .. I hope it’s this 🤣 as there not cheap
Thanks for the info Cody
You’re welcome Robert!
Excellent helpful video!
Subscribed
Lots of “that’s what she said” as well but I won’t go there
I’m actually struggling with some electrical problem my radiator fan is not working properly! Sometimes spins sometimes no….I did check/clean the connection but still work just randomly….I change the fuse nothing change then i bought a new fan nothing changed…I bought a new thermostat nothing changed…then i was checking the ECU because actually the fan getting signal from there, was everything nice clean an tight…I have no any other idea what to do…I also was in 2 different service and they can’t see what is the problem the only thing they can do to install a side button for me to turn on/off the fan by myself what I don’t really want 🤦🏻♂️ btw it’s a gsxr 750 2008
My 1993 CBR 1000F just died on me on the road. i replaced the voltage regulator. The bike is charging. The fuse box is getting 11.9 -12.2 from the ignition switch but the battery reads 13.9 at 5000 rpm. I know the ignition switch will get either dirty or worn and not send the correct voltage to the regulator and it sends too much voltage to the battery and can do damage. How do i clean the ignition switch or do i replace? same problem with my 1982 Gl500 silverwing.
Smart guy, dirty nails, great channel!
Great video, I ended up replacing my coil because two cylinder wouldn’t fire and not a second did I think it may have been the cdi, once I changed my coils the bike started and fired all four cylinder but then suddenly stopped and I’m getting no pulse, I can hear the fuel pump click but nothing with the current, can you help me understand if this could be the cdi ?
Previously my bike wouldn’t rev past 10rpm and would choke really badly
Did you find te problem?
good stuff Cody!
Thanks brother!
Hi!!!
I've a nighthawk 750 and doesn't want to pass more than 5,000rpm in any gear, already replaced IcM, spark plugs and nothing has change. Last thing I'm gonna try is testing the coils. I need help cause I love the bike but is driving me nuts!!!
Brilliant advice
Hey bro, just asking if you got any tips regarding my current issue.
So, my bike has power but neither push starting nor kick starting had any response like, totally dead, nothing. I tried jump starting it through the starter relay and it started but it need constant apply to the throttle to keep it going. The moment you let go of the throttle, the engine dies. I also heard something like an eletrical clicking under my gas tank. Any idea if this is just wiring problem or some components needs replacement? Thank you!
I bought a 93 Goldwing, rode it 60 miles back home, park, then it won't start at all. It turns on the motorcycle, crank but won't start.
I bought a new solenoid, but it's doing the same thing, sounds the same. It won't turn over and start.
Is this a starter issue or a low battery or something else?
Please help.
well noted.. since I was revisiting your channel I decided to go check the free course you were offering but hey the PC security just warned me of some suspicious credential hacking activity?? hmm...can a motorcyclist do another something like that? I think not but pls make sure the subscription system dont make users hardware overreact!..and thanks for the tip..will try checking some connections for my chronical starter issue which I already ordered a replacement ..shame :)
Huh?! The website said that or your PC’s software said that? Where did you see that? This is important to me button up!
Hi, I need to ask if you can give some idea how to make my 2013 VT750 start. I checked there's a spark. I checked the fuel pump has good strong flow. I don't know how to check the Fuel injection system works. Please help. Thank you. From Sydney, Australia.
good vid do you know anything about 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 please let me know thanks
I'm working on kawasaki right now, but I do have a v65 1100 saber. starts right up
Going through a melon scratching drama at the moment , my 2011 XT660R battery hasn’t been charging anywhere near 14 volts , high 12 or low 13 volts is the highest it will go , so it eventually winds down , even after a new stator & new regulator/ rectifier & battery
tried the electrical grease , on plugs & fuse connectors.
Redo your ground wire. I know sounds crazy
Hey! I am having the same issue with my 2003 cbr 600rr. New stator and R/R. Only getting low 13V at 5000 RPM. Were you able to solve it on your bike? I am going to do this to my connections and check grounds, hopefully I find the problem!
Great tip, thanks
I broke your 500 likes. I'm 501. I love every video you make. Very easy to follow. Great editing. Audio is great too. Keep it up my friend.
I brought a Honda in August however I've had to charge it every night as the battery can only last about 30 miles any ideas ?
Hey man maybe you could help me with an answer please ,my husqvarna 701 has a sticking on rear brake light ,would it be good just to change the hydraulic switch on the abs unit ,please reply
OK I signed up for course
HOW do I accessing it ?
BTW, good info and presentations
I have a wire that is touching metal or something is touching something in the frontend by the radio. Every time I move the frontend fairing the lights and radio turns of then I remove the fairing off the handlebars everything stay on. What is going on here? How can I find this wire
Great advice! Thank you so much Cody!!
I got a Kawasaki GPZ 500 1998 model, my problem is when it rains I lose power and it stops after a short period of time it then fires back up again then I can continue, have you any ideas what is the problem please?
So tru i have a gsxr 1000r 22 and i noticed i went to turn the bike on all lights came on but when i hit the ignition everything went black im like what the hell so i get on the bike and boom everything comes back on no problem 2 weeks go by im getting ready to leave for work start the bike all lights come on pressing the ignition its trying to start but want im thinking man how much is this gonna cost so of course i said let me check the battery even tho everything is doing what it should just want start took seat and covers off toched the negative connection all good there went to left the red cover that be over the positive my alarm starts going off sure enough i dont know how but the bolt had backed out and the connection was extremely lose tighten everything up and not a problem since
ALWAYS spray alcohol in the joint and plug and unplug at least 5 times, whilst still wet with spirit.
Excellent advice thank you for the help.
Great-advice , thanks Dave nz
I NEED HELP
my bike keeps dying on the road after about an hour of riding... I replaced stator and harness-side female connector since they appeared to have sparked and burnt inside the connection. battery is good, within a year old, and have done the troubleshooting to make sure it holds charge before applying load. some things that happen as the bike starts to die:
-pushing past half throttle, the bike acts like i havent given throttle at all
-dials go to zero and my small lcd screen numbers disappear, all thats left is the backlight
-headlights swell bright to dim in a loop
-eventually stalls and wont start back up. leaving me stranded...
(K1 Z750 Kawasaki) i also have an error code for Atmospheric (15) and STP (32) sensors
any tips?
I got some yzf-R125 2011.mod snd it's not working it was last weed but now it just revs like it what to start if u can help I will be fo happy????😢