ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2018
- Multiple motorcycle makes and models experience problems with burnt or melted stator connectors and wires. Ducati, Harley-Davidson, Aprilia, Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Triumph and others, all experience this issue. Oftentimes, those who've experienced this problem share a short, succinct piece of advice: 'Just hard-wire it!'
I have seen this advice on many forums, but when I searched for a video showing 'How to hardwire a motorcycle stator to a regulator-rectifier,' I could not find many useful videos. So this is my version of hardwiring your motorcycle stator!
My problem surfaced likely because of an oil wicking problem in my stator wires (I'm planning a video to cover this unusual circumstance, as well). However, in my opinion most instances of a burnt or melted stator connector and/or wires, is due to poor preventative maintenance. Dirt, oil, grime, salt, sand, moisture and oxidation all increase resistance in the connector, and this resistance equals heat--and a lot of it. If this connector is overlooked during cleaning time it will be just a matter of time before the heat starts to cook things up.
While hard-wiring eliminates the connector 'hot spot,' there are two drawbacks: 1) There's no way to test the stator and/or reg-rec unless you re-cut the wires; and 2) On my Ducati, the reg-rec has to be removed every time the alternator-side crankcase cover is removed. This isn't a huge deal: The battery has to be disconnected and the ECU has to be loosened and moved out of the way before the two bolts securing the regulator/rectifier can be accessed.
Finally, I used sealed crimp connectors with an extra layer of heat shrink and a full wrap of silicone tape for added protection. There are many other options that would work very well for this project; Solder (for those who know how to solder properly), non-insulated butt connectors and solder (with heat shrink), and a variety of other methods.
I hope you enjoy the video, and Good Luck with your repairs!
Associate Links to items used in this repair:
Power Phase Butt Connector 16-14 AWG (Sealed Crimp Connector) Part #58590 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
Power Phase Crimping & Wire Stripping Tool Part #0710609 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
You can purchase these items through eBay (some times you can find great deals there), or go through Fastenal (online or local store if one is available near you).
#track848 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
5 years later and your video is incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Haha--you're welcome!
I dont normally leave comments EVER - but I've been trying to fix my stator to rectifier issue for more than 7 months trying to solder and all sorts of other crap. thank you for simplifying this for all of us. Great vid.
Thanks for the comment, Josh! I hope you get it sorted soon!
I'm kind of late on this but I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU! I am, right now, in the process of replacing my entire oem wire harness and as I was disconnecting everything, I came across the exact same fried connector that you have in this video. The crazy thing is, I just put this stator on, brand new, less than a month ago! My old connector was fried too. I immediately began to wonder "I know that these three yellow wires just go right into my reg/rect, I wonder if I could just hardwire them in, thereby eliminating this problem connector. As I Googled 'hardwiring stator to regulator' your video came up, reassuring me that I could, indeed, do just that! Ugh! What a GREAT feeling, when you know that you have a definite, workable, and even easy solution to what looks like a BIG problem! Thank you for your video! It's people like you who save people like me hundreds of $$$ in mechanics bills, by sharing your knowledge and showing us that we CAN do it ourselves!!!
You're welcome Kristi! Glad you found this video helpful!
Thanks for the vid - extremely helpful, was able to sort out my bike after 2 reg/recs and 2 batteries didn't seem to do the job, turned out the connector block was fried. Also great to have verified it doesn't matter which order the 3 wires connect from the stator to the reg/rec. Great work, cheers!
You're welcome, Jim...It's good to hear that you got it sorted!
Thanks guys, I was worried also about contacting the whires the wrong way.....
Hey I have a brown wire and don’t know what’re it connects any help?
Have been having this problem with my 85 vf700f. I believe this connector overheating effects my battery charging?
Am going to hardwire it like you've shown.
Your vid is one of the best! Thank you for not telling your life story for half the vid like others do : )
Hi Paul, yes this could effect your battery charging. If you haven't already done so, I recommend checking out the links in this video (click on the icon in the top right corner) and you'll see a few videos that show you how to check your stator and regulator-rectifier. Another item to check is battery connections at the terminals to ensure they are tight, and the ground where it bolts into the engine and/or frame. Come back and let us know how it works out and thanks for your comment!
Thanks a lot for this excellent, detailed video..it’s exactly what I need to fix my wiring issues 👍
You're welcome, Gary; I'm glad you found it useful!
Great thanks
First of all, really great video. Thanks for contributing to the community!
The connector in my CBR900RR apparently has just failed. Apparently, it had friend a long time back, and left the connectors exposed, which corroded over time until one of them seized yesterday and broke in two parts. Now I am planning to troubleshoot the whole thing, to assess whether the stator and/or the R/R are at fault.
As you suggest, I'd like to hardwire both, after reading many times that the source of this issue is bad connection + arcing. I would like, however, to be able to have a simple way to swap components in the future, in case they fail down the line.
For that, I thought: would it be a reasonable idea to (instead of hardwire them), just connect them with a strip terminal enclosed in a waterproof box? The 3-cable strip terminal + waterproof box can be had for really cheap in a hardware store, and screwing/unscrewing should be very simple.
I am really NOT experienced in anything related to electrical installations, so if you could give me your feedback, I'd really really appreciate it.
Cheers
Good video. As someone that has been connected with electrical equipment my whole working life I can't help thinking while this is a good fix it also highlights the need for a more suitable connector by the manufacturers.
Well said, Tony!
Good vid. I had the same problem on my 1098. Connector was fried. I went with a MOSFET replacement and a pigtail that mates with the factory connector from the stator. Key is to route the wire up and then down, which keeps the oil seeping issue that you described at bay.
Thanks for the comment, J., I'm planning to upgrade and relocate my reg-rec in the future. And the wire re-route does seem to be a good way to keep the seeping issue away... After posting this video I actually did just that--after eliminating the hardwire and adding a better connector similar to the stock one, but heavier-duty. To this date, everything is working fine!
This is the best quarantine video ever!! I finally have time to fix the bike haha. Thanks for making the video.
You're welcome RC Man!
I was just thinking you're same comment 🤙
@Matteo Lyle go fuck yourself
THIS IS VERY HELPFUL AND EASY TO UNDERSTAND !!! Thank you soooooooooooooo much !!!!
Robin, you are welcome!!!! Thanks for commenting!
Fixed my bike today according to your instructions. Big thanks.
You're welcome Sean!
Quick question what was the problem on your bike
@@abrahamsoto7632 Multiple issues: starter motor was broken (loose/smashed magnets and melted plastic when opened), melted connectors (rectifier/stator connection) and I replaced the battery and rectifier because I initially thought those components were the cause. Inexpensive Chinese starter motor seems good - at least worked every day since. Good luck with yours
I have the same problem with a Kawasaki Versys. It's astonishing how common this issue is.
It really is atonishing, Frank. Ducati, Aprilia, Honda, Harley Davidson, Kawasaki and more; I found examples from nearly all makes when I researched this problem.
Thank you. My stator AND rectifier both burned up. Bike been cutting off for a year. Been replacing stator/rectifier/battery constantly until i noticed a few days ago that the connectors were destroyed. Jokingly in my head i said I'll hardwire everything. Now that i see it's actually a thing I'm comfortable doing it. And thanks for the tape info. I ride a 2001 Suzuki gsxr 1000.
You're welcome Cow boy! I love those Gsxr 1000s--what a beast! Good luck and ride safe...
@@Track848 thank you. Same to you. Shiny side up.
Hey man, did this completely fix your issue? I just got an 04 gsxr 600 and my connectors are burnt and battery is smoking. Looking to hardwire like this but scared
Great video, found mine fried under my ecm 2 days ago when pulling down my 03 954rr for t-chain replacement with adjustable sprockets. I was 90% sure just replacing the connector with higher quality would fix the issue, sadly I already ordered $400 worth parts for new rectifier and stator which will now just be closet replacement parts 🤯! Thanks for the video and II really hope more ppl get to see this video before they spend unneeded money!
Ean, glad you found the burnt connector... if you can't resale the new parts that you purchased, it's always good to have items like this on your shelf. For example, my reg-rec eventually ended-up malfunctioning as well. Good luck!
@@Track848 def have a collection of parts, 9yrs automotive mechanic... First owned bike, first bike wrenched on.... Update all maintenance done and stator works perfect 14.67 volt output noticed that the wires from the stator are 14ga at plug and the rectifier is 12ga at plug... Nice factory bottle neck. Honestly think once I get the new stator if it isn't 12ga to match I'll be replacing the wires to match the rectifier.
Update direct wire ftw, Parts Giant let me down and failed to include the stator in the box before shipping. smh... good old human error.
What a great video! My 96 vfr750 with 250k miles on it is in dire need of this. I've replaced all the charging components but never considered that it needed to be maintained. The wires from the stator side are smoking hot (literally). While the other side of the plug is cool. This gives me hope!
Yes, these wires can get hot!
Stator connector burns when parallel type regulator is used. It is necessary to switch to a series type regulator that will reduce the current from the stator.
In the EU, a small Croatian manufacturer makes a high-quality replacement three-phase HVSP regulator/rectifier of combined series and parallel type to reduce the heating of the stator and regulator (14V-2FHVSP-30A-AX/BX-KS-LI) which is a possible alternative to the SH847 because it works on many engines on which SH847 is normally used as a replacement. The warranty is 4 to 5 years.
Another easy to follow tutorial for the average joe. Fantastic
👍 Glad you liked it!
Wow, interesting this happened to your bike as well. I have an 01' Kawi ZX-12R and I went through two stators & rectifiers because of excessive oil wicking into the connectors which basically started to smolder. These were both covered under warranty thank god. The third time I checked and caught it before the connectors started melting. I did what you did. Cut the connectors (stator/rectifier) off and instead of a crimp connector, I soldered the wires together. Then used a two part non-electrical epoxy around it and then a heat shrink wrap. The solder and epoxy makes sure there are no gaps for the oil to wick through. 16yrs later, all still good!
Hi Todd... thanks for the comment! When I originally researched this before my repair I found a number of owners with many makes and models of motorcycles that experienced the oil-wicking problem. Some people do not believe it! A while after I made this video I also took another approach since I typically remove my alternator-side cover a couple of times each season for routine and non-routine maintenance: I added some extra length to the wires coming from the stator and then, instead of routing the wires straight down to the reg/rec, I routed it 'up' and then down to the reg/rec. This supposedly lets gravity help remedy the situation. I reattached heavier/better connectors and have yet to see any leaks...
@@Track848 Thanks and good idea with the re-route. I do notice your rec was lower than the stator on the Duc. My rec & connector is located in the tail of the 12R. So it's about a foot or so higher than the stator. That still did not stop the oil from wicking up into it. I had oil dripping on the edge of my rear tire when it went the first two times. Not good. I'm sure the oil pressure in the engine pushes it up. Just keep an eye on it and hopefully all will be good. Cheers!
Thanks! I have the same issue with my victory cross country. The connector meltdown. Now I am going to do the same you did.
Excellent, good luck!
Great video as always! I’ve been having a starting issue on my 1098 and changed starter, battery etc. Upon trying to check the ohms in the stator i realized my wires were burnt exactly like yours! I was thinking about getting rid of that connector too and hard wiring it. Good to know! Thank you
Excellent work and great video
Thanks Dinakar!
thank you for the video it was very helpful. i did the same but put 14gauge bullet connectors, the issue i had was not knowing if the three wires were interchangeable or specific. thank you once again for your help.
You're welcome, karlo! I'm glad you found the video helpful...
i saw that mine was burnt too, and was ignoring cause i didn't know how to go about to fix it. But my battery keeps draining and dieing so this was amazing! thank you
You're welcome, Chingun, I'm glad you found this video helpful!
thank you very helpful I have same problem I might gonna try this on my stator wires
You're welcome Soloista... good luck!
As With most other viewers, this video helped me a lot , great job explaining, clear good Video , Thank You!
Thanks, Dan, glad it helped!
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo très explicative. C'est exactement ce que je voulais savoir.
Vous etes les bienvenus, Othmane! Merci pour votre commentaire!!!
This is the most informative video, subbed.
I have a 2008 ducati 848 and i have similar problems, now i can do it myself.
Thanks bud 🙏🏻
You're welcome!--I'm happy that you found the video helpful! I have a few other videos that you might find useful in the future as well--check out the maintenance vids when you get a chance, I cover a few other issues/nuances with these models...
@@Track848 i did checkout all the videos, if i have to suggest a video it would be the valve adjustment tutorial on the 848, i knw its a lot of work, but a huge amount of crowd were waiting for this one. thanks for responding to me :)
The valve adjustment tutorial is on my list of videos to do... I am hoping to complete it in Spring or Summer 2020!
@@Track848 looking forward :)
@@Track848 so i did the VR replacement and followed all the steps, after cranking up the bike i only see the volts 12.2 at the most and they are dropping by slowly while im riding it. do you think the Stator is toast?? also the battery is new :(
I read alot that this helps from alot electrical issues cutting the r/r and stator connector because the connection become lose and filled with corrosion causing alot resistance so best just to remove, I've also read to remove the connection on the rectifier end to power and ground harness side and cut and hard wire directly to the battery with 30 amp fuse , have u done this also to get ride of all the electrical issues? How does the rest of the electrical components get power from the harness if it's bypassed from that connection?
Great video, pretty clear and useful !
Thank you, Enrique!
Thanks for the video. My sv650 is a nightmare for the reg/rec it’s melted the last lot of conectors i put on so think i need to run new wires now
Go for it!
Thanks for the video, I am also in a situation to hardwire my satator wire, it is three phase coil, just wanted to know does it have polarity? I guess it does not have or else you would have explained.
Very helpful and easy solutions.
This is a problem I recently experienced with my 2002 triumph sprint. Its a good fix but I would stop short of hard wiring just in case you need to replace the stator at any point. This would mean you need to cut out the hard connection and if it's already on a short length of wire you may find there's nothing left to reconnect to. This can also apply to having to replace connectors but they tend to need less wire removing in the first place.
did your wire stator getting hot too mine do I chance three different stator but still hot it charging fine but wire get hot 2003 triumph speed triple thank you
Love the video!! Big question! My new 7 pole stator doesn't have 3 yellow s. They are: white, green and yellow. Does the order matter? Thanks!
thanks by the way great help!
thank you so much for this video! I had this happen jut now.
I hope you got it fixed!
Hey!
Great Video, nice and clear. I have the same problem on my Vstrom 650, did the same repair and I still have the burning problem but only in one wire. 😒
Kind regards form Mexico.
Thank you, Gil... do you know if the one wire could possibly be 'wicking oil' from inside the crankcase? I had a stator that had the 'wicking' issue and sent it to Rick's Motorcycle Electrics to have the three wires completely renewed. Just something to consider...
@@Track848 No, wiring is clean. I have watched some videos and discover is a common problem in a lot of motorcycles. I haven't noticed the issue before.
Thanks! Great video!
You're welcone, Moran!
glad you're back. whens the next video?
ChaosBreaker Soon--I have a few videos in the 'pipeline;' next one should be ready within the next week or two. Thank you!
Does the ordering of the wires matter? Bought a shadow from a mate to do an engine swap and both the rectifier and the stator have male ends on the connection
Nicely done. Thanks.
Hi I have a 2004 Honda Fireblade and I'm now on my 4th stator, Honda knew about this problem and did a recall but still Its a problem, it burnt out at this year's TT and I had to run my bike off the battery , a part from taking a hammer to my bike I think I might try this as I've nothing to lose, I'm at the end of my Tether with this bike, thanks for a really good video.👍👍 J.
I hope you figure it out soon! You probably have already done so, but if not, I have a playlist linked in this video that contains 5 of the best videos (in my opinion), showing how to check/test the stator and reg-rec... If these tests look good but your wiring and connectors are 'gunked' up like mine were, then definitely renew the connectors or hardwire the Fireblade like I did here... This is the link to the playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLfo8_jF94f2jg8t8XWMzu_TxRJbEKkbHE.html . I would love to hear how it turns out for you. Good Luck!
@@Track848 many thanks for your reply and your knowledge, I will have a look at the links you've provided, I will let you know how I get on, regards John.👍👍 It will be a weekend garage job. Cheers
That was a problem on two of my Honda Shadows. Now as soon as I buy another one, it's the first thing I do is take that plug out and solder the wires right away. It saves the Stator from burning out also!
Excellent, thanks for commenting Painter D!
Painter D
Hi I have a 2000 Honda shadow spirit and the same thing happened /..I have burned connections...what wires do I join together to hardwired it?
@@samvalenzuela6043 the 3 yellow that go from the stator to the regulator. Same thing happened yo my 600 shadow but mine blows ignition fuses and won't turn on.
Just fixed my 05 ninja tonight thank you so much
You're Welcome Jimmy!
I have a brown wire on the one I bought. Could you help me with understanding what I hook it to?
!!!! THANK YOU !!!! This was INCREDIBLY helpful! My connector was (accidentally) cut off the stator and this gives me hope that its fixable! Is there a name for the type of connector you used so I know what to order?
Hey Paula, sorry I missed your comment earlier. The connectors are Power Phase sealed crimp butt connectors. There's an associate link in the description... Good luck with your repair!
Great video 👍
Thanks, John!
Thank you, this is great! I have to do this on my Aprilia now.
Glad it was helpful!
@@Track848 does it matter the orientation of those yellow wires?
@@bears893 No, it does not matter, the yellow wires are interchangeable...
@@Track848 you are effing awesome! And thank you so much for the quick response muchly appreciated!
Con la moto arrancada no se calientan los cables del estator o regulador tocandolos con la mano?
nice video very helpful .... i want to ask you question i have 2010 triumph Daytona 675 the Regulator Rectifier the muting place is in the right fairing and is getting hot because no air flow in this area do you think this is good place for Regulator Rectifier and the second question is i did replaced the Stator two times now is this normal for triumph or my rectifier need to replace too ? ...... thinks for help
Hi Amri. I'm not 100% familiar with the Triumph, but I have read some forum posts where members mentioned relocating the reg-rec for better airflow. A lot of Ducati owners have done this as well. Regarding your reg-rec, go to around 4:14 in this video and there is a card with links to some videos that might help you determine if yours is bad... good luck!
Is there a high temperature or current wire that works best?
the regulator harness plug from my Rzr was melted i was told it was a common issue due to the wiring being too small of guage can i use this method?
Very helpful THANK YOU!
You're welcome, PBBB!
Hello man Thank for the video.but i have some think to ask you.where can buy new cable for my moto.can you answear me plz
this really helpfull! mine just got fried today, gonna try this fix asap, anyway do the cables can be paired randomly or there is specific pair? like polarity or grounds
Ryan, the yellow wires can be reconnected randomly, they do not need to be in any specific order. Good luck!
@BlowItOpen NewKnowledge Glad you found your answer here!
@@Track848 Thank you! This answer should be pinned at the top. Africa Twin is notorious for this kind of melt downs, just saw (and smelled) the magic smoke today. Although I marked my wires before cutting them, I had to remove a lot of the fried portion of the cable and out of pure stupidity I cut over the marks. Then I went ini mini miny moe with the 3 yellow cables and lost my sleep over the fear of doing worst damage than what I had fixed. Thankfully all is fine. BTW, I used three independent (not in a plug) insulated fastons just to keep the option of disconnecting them without having to cut the wires anew.
Had the same issue w my 06’ Gsxr600 with the connectors being crispy but I put it back together as is when I relocated the rectifier away from the headers and radiator and haven’t had any issues thank god. But am considering going back in and cleaning up those wires and connections
Thanks for commenting Doug. Yes, a lot of Ducati owners' of this model also relocate the rectifier away from the headers and radiator; I'm going to do this some time in the future. I agree, it would be a good idea to clean up the wires and connections when you have the opportunity. 👍
@@Track848 update: took the bike out last weekend and it completely died about twenty minutes into the ride. Jumped it and it started, made it a mile down the road and died again. Wouldn’t jump start. So had to flatbed it back home. My fears of it coming back to bite me have come true.
today i make this jop with my strator i want coneckt the wires like this but my frend electo men say t connet with oem how it was very pity not se yur video befre i thing this is beter way....this 3 wires if i conneckt some of them rong is problem??i mean i was mark like you with green tape and second black but after maybe i connekt the black with green ...will be problem ?? not start the engine?? or only not recharge the batery good????
I think soldered joints a better option, it gives a better connection. You can then reheat and break the joint if you have need to.
Ty for the this i will try this on my 03 Gsxr 750
You're Welcome!
1100 honda shadow n i downloaded a diagram that wire not there ? N my battery almost blew up started smoking ..u think that why thanks
I have a 2013 Kimco my stater went out. Can I bypass that and hook it up to my regulator
Soldering be prob be a better option correct? What’s the chances these act exactly like the connectors do and create hot point? Def be a lot easier than soldering. Just curious if this is wildly trusted method or should I just soldering . Great video
Awesome video thanks the previous owner did a spice I have no idea why but anyway it got corroded and burned up.yes I did take a picture so i thought, My question is i have 3 yellow wires.
Does it matter witch yellow goes witch goes where I know the yellow to yellow part. I feel so stupid
You can connect the three yellow wires in any order, Danny; good luck!
Ive decided it would be a good idea to install a voltmeter gauge. Just, little over a year ago, had to replace stator and rectifier. Now, I'm having trouble again with the system.
Thankyou, Helpfull video
You're welcome, danny!
my 05 gsxr started have wiring heavy heating by regulator to wiring harness connectors, Does those yellow wires make difference which to be connected?
There is no specific order for the yellow wires... you can put them back together in any order... the wires that go to the battery side are specific, so take note of that side if you're working there, too...
Good video. The same thing just happened to my 04 ninja 636. Now i would like to hardwire like the video just showed but how do i know which wires connect to each other?
Thanks E Blaze! The order of the three wires (yellow wires in my case), coming from the stator to the regulator-rectifier is irrelevant and you can hardwire the three in any combination you wish. The wires on the battery side of the reg rec (Red/white & green on my bike), have to be in a specific order, so if you're planning to work on that side as well, take notes, pictures or a video of these wires before you make any cuts. I hardwired the stator-to-reg/rec side only as my connector on the battery side was clean and serviceable. Good luck!
@@Track848 that's the same question I was going to ask but luckily someone else asked it. And that is very helpful because I have a ATV and I just replaced the stator and the wires are the same on both sides for the rectifier and on the stator.. now I don't have to worry about it messing up.. thanks.
@@MrSours69 You're welcome, Chase!
@@Track848 I bought an ATV and the stator wires were already cut and just left hanging. I've been searching everywhere trying to find out if the wires had a certain way to hook up. Glad I've finally found an answer. Thank you
@@charliesmth987 You're welcome Yumi! Good luck with your repair.
I'm thinking about straight wiring my 05 Hayabusa but with my rectifier and stator the connector is a 5 prong connector with the negative and positive wires being apart of the connector and not separate like yours. Would the straight wiring be the same for all 5 of the wires in the connector?
Gene, I have never worked on a Hayabusa, but took a look at some general photos and videos; are the two extra wires from the alternator cover connected to the crank position sensor? I'm not sure where the sensor wires terminate, but I would not want to 'lock-in' the reg/rec with hardwires on both sides (i.e stator side hardwire along with battery side reg/rec hardwiring). If you do this, you will have to cut the wires everytime you pull the cover.
At the end of the repair in this video, I still had one connector on the battery side of the reg/rec. This allows me to disconnect it and remove the cover with stator and reg/rec as one unit on my bike.
Since I've never worked on a Hayabusa, I would feel more comfortable if a hayabusa guy or gal would chime in here. If not, perhaps you could check one of the busa forums for a good answer. I saw several threads covering this topic. Please come back and let us know!!!
@@Track848 Yes they run to the crank position sensor and are green and blue. They connect into the wiring harness at a 3 prong connector and 2 prong connector and then the connectors run to the 5 prong connector before the rectifier. Thanks for the info.
Great video thank you
You're welcome!
Hi man good video I have Yamaha r6 my connectors melted so does it matter which wire goes to which wire when I hook it back up??
No, it does not matter for the three wires coming from the stator to the regulator/rectifier; The wires on the other side (from the reg/rec to the motorcycle/battery side) it does matter, so if you mess with those make sure they are in the correct order. In this video, the three yellow wires from the stator can go in any order you wish... Good luck!
i recently just burned through the connector on my bike. the previous owner decided to pair up the wires so instead of having 3 it just had 2 wires spliced together with nothing more than electrical tape. but i think i'll use spade connectors or bullet connectors to make it easier to swap out when i need to.
Hi Paolo, that's a good idea! I ended up re-installing spade connectors, but used a heavier duty version than the OEMs. I didn't like the idea of removing the reg-rec every time I had to remove the alternator-side cover on this bike. If you end up using spade or bullet connectors just be sure to check and clean them once or twice a year and you should be fine. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome video, does the 3 yellow wires need to be marked? Cuz I forgot to do it and I just hardwired them one at a time, now I am thinking about changing out the rectifier as the battery is still not charging but I don't know which wire is which after I cut them.
The three wires coming from the stator are completely interchangeable and can be reconnected in any order--you're good!
Much better video then MD omg that guy talks about unrelated issues lets just say that ?
I think the problem occurs when using old diode-based rectifier. When you use old diode-based rectifier, no matter your battery is fully charged or not, the stator coil on its full load.
I believe we can overcome this by replacing the rectifier with “new-type most based rectifier like FH020AA”. Which is also good for the stator coil.
My 02 954RR has been off the road for a year and half until we finally found the stator/rectifier conn burnt up inside the conn couldnt see it until it was unplugged. Hard wired and finally got her running again. Almost parted her out over this 1 connection that had went bad. Smh.
Nemo
Glad you didn't part out... I love the 954RR!
Hi
Thanks for amazing video, i have one question. Does the order of pins matter? I mean, there is 3 wires from R/R and 3 wires from stator,. Lets cal them A, B and C. Does connection have to be A-A, B-B and C-C or could i connect them A-C example?
Antti, the three yellow wires in this video from the stator can connect in any order with the three yellow wires coming from the R/R. The wires on the other side of the R/R that go to the battery do go in a specific order so make sure those are kept the same. The yellow wires can be AB, CA and BC for example. Good luck!
Just answered my question, thanks.
@@ronaldstone1285 You're welcome, Ronald!
Another great video!! I just found a small oilleak on my 1098, and traced it to the stator wiring. The connector was filled with oil. Would it be possible for the oil to travel all the way to the rectifier?
Keep up the good work!!
Cheers from Sweden
Thank you, Henrik! I'm not sure if the oil would make it all the way to the rectifier, but I have read on some forums that it does happen... I have not personally been able to confirm that, though.
I have a 2007 triumph Daytona 675 my question is does it matter in what configuration the yellow wires go? Or can I just hard wire it
It doesn't matter at all Frank in which order the yellow wires go... go for it!
Can you but connect the wires with any of the three? Like is there an order for which each wire needs to be with the other wire?
There is no order for the yellow wires, you can interchange them...
Soldering the connection will in theory tin the wires and prevent any future oil wicking issues, I wonder if you can purchase a connector repair ikit?
Thanks Mrdubomb... and yes, in fact, I ultimately changed back to a connector when I found an 'upgrade' repair kit from Rick's Motorsports Electrics. It's been installed for a few years with no issues.
Thank you nice video
Thank you, Owen! Glad you liked it!!!
My rectifier has a green wire running to the battery from one of green wires ..none of videos or my new part didnt have this it probky why it burned up
On my 2008 Ninja EX250 I did this repair a couple years ago. I've put 11000 miles on the bike (first repair at 8000 miles, now at 19000) but my repairs have already melted. I noticed that it started to melt after 3000 miles. I'm about to replace the bikes wiring harness and stator. I think it melted because 1. It sits right under my right leg fairing; pressed up against all that black plastic cooked it. 2. Water, rode and sat in the rain and snow a couple dozen times. Lesson learned: clean and lubricate the wiring connection between the stator and harness as often as the chain, i.e. once a week, every ride, and or when it is exposed to rain.
Hey Garrett, it sounds like you've got your problem figured out... I bought an extra stator and had it completely re-wired with heavier gauge wire (12 gauge wire vs the 14 gauge that it came with from the factory). When I eventually upgrade my reg-rec, I will use this newly-wired stator and I am also going to relocate the reg-rec to a higher/cooler location, probably over to the right side of my bike... Good luck with your project and thanks for commenting!
Hello 👋🏻! Just a question.. is there any polarity between those 3 yellow wires? Or it can goes anywhere to which is which? Thanks 😊
The yellow wires are interchangeable... they can go in any order.
change three different stator but wire still hot .stator pig tail look nice and clean no burn 2003 triumph speed triple thank you
Hi for Australia. 🌏
I've hade the same issue twice now in the last 5 years with My 1998 Yamaha R1.
What I have all so come across is the insolation lacker compound has warn off most part of the top windings pickups surface that runs close to the magnetics .
As there is a small amount of oil covering the stator I'm assuming the stator is shorting out due to the oil film all across the stator windings pickups.
Only two windings coils of the stator are still fully insulated over the pickups.
The two issues I have with the bike is 1/ That connection plug has burnt out again.
2/ At idle the battery will slowly drain but spazmaticly the bike will increase in RPS for a minute or so then the dash instruments will go out. Then shortly after that the bike will shut off.
The battery will drop instantly from 12 volts down to 10 volts.
@bernardmcnamara Hi Bernard... some of those symptoms sound like a bad regulator-rectifier. Have you checked that yet?
I have a 08 Daytona 675 do the wires need to be in a certain order or just make all the connections? Wiring diagram doesn’t specify
Yellow wires from the stator can go in any order...
Friend, I have a problem with my cbr 954,
If the rectifier and stator are in trouble, does the motorcycle start?
Hi there, Gphillip... It depends on what stage of trouble the rectifier and/or stator are in. For example, my regulator-rectifier was bad in this video th-cam.com/video/kw11Onl7OLQ/w-d-xo.html; as you can see in the video one of the signs was a blown fan fuse. Later my headlights would randomly turning on and off and the dash would 'flicker' on and off as well. Throughout this entire process, the motorcycle would start with absolutely no problem. Did you have any symptoms like this before? If not, you might want to check to ensure that your fuel delivery is okay and that your ignition system is working properly. You might also find some help specific to your bike over on one of the Honda Fireblade forums...
In my cbr 250 the wire cameing from magnetic coil gets over heating and there are same oil present in the wire sir can you tell what may the problem
I had the same problem with this bike; it is a widely reported issue among many makes and models. Basically, oil from inside the engine works its way to the inside of the wires (in between the wire and the outer insulation/jacket), and wicks down to the connector. Once the wicking process starts it is hard to stop it. I am currently experimenting with a fix: I added enough wire to go out and 'up' away from the stator and then back down to the connector instead of straight out and 'down'. I read about this solution, which uses gravity, on one of the motorcycle forums and so far it appears to be working... you can find more by searching, 'oil wicking stator wire motorcycle.' Come back and let us know how you end up resolving yours... Thank you!
I found this cables burnt in my bike do you also get an
ignition fuse blown???
Hey genzo, sorry about the delay, I'm just now seeing this... It's my understanding that random electrical issues can crop up when this happens, especially if your regulator-rectifier is also bad like mine was. You can see near the end of the video that this turned out to be my problem. The fan fuse was the only one that blew in my case, but after I replaced the reg-rec, everything has worked well and I keep a closer eye on the connector to ensure it doesn't get dirty or 'grimy'. Good luck!
I have a 1994 fzr600 I replaced the regulator but mine has 3 wires of the same color and one red one.... I made sure to put the red one in it’s exact spot but I’m sure I messed one of the others up...I went for a short ride and the battery .. maybe 20 minutes. Also before I replaced the regulator the battery had gotten extremely hot. Is it possible my battery is fried? Or wire placement? The wire I’m talking about are on the right side of the battery regulator?? How can I test the proper sequence they go in?
Hi Lester... I have not worked on a fzr 600, but the order of the three wires from the stator to the regulator-rectifier can go in any sequence. It might be a good idea to check out one of the fzr forums for more details about your particular model. If you're in the USA, you can take your battery in to an automotive parts shop (like Autozone or Advance Auto) and they will test the battery (for free) to see if its fried. The regulator you replaced may have damaged it. Also, if you check the top right corner in my video, you will find a link to a playlist with videos that will show you how to test your stator and your regulator-rectifier. Good luck!
Track848 thank you for your quick reply! I will do the steps you mentioned and I’m hitting that subscribe button!!
Got some links/sources for your crimping tools and connectors?
Yes, sure... The crimping tool and butt connectors are Power Phase brand; eBay associate links:
- Power Phase Butt Connector 16-14 AWG (Sealed Crimp Connector) Part #58590 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
- Power Phase Crimping & Wire Stripping Tool Part #0710609 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
You can purchase these items through eBay (some times you can find great deals there), or go through Fastenal--online or at a local store if one is available near you.
awesome video! But what if I have three wires coming from my Stator bvut onnects to just two wires??(Yellow/Blue and Green from Stator... Melted connectors and only blue and green connecting!.... Note, Thbere is no evidence of a third wire every being present!)
When disconnecting the 3 yellow wires does it matter if I connect them back to the exact same yellow wire? I'm assuming as long as I'm going yellow to yellow, it doesn't matter which yellow it is. I have a connector that melted and I can't even get it to come apart. Thinking about cutting the wires and hardwiring them like you did. I don't know if I have to remember which yellow went into which yellow.
Hey there, Dave.... the three yellow wires can be connected in whatever order you wish--they do not have a specific order--you can mix them up and there will be no problem. Good luck!
Track848 thanks. That makes things a little easier.
I didn’t label the cables before cutting them from the connector. Does it matter the order in which I connect them?
The yellow wires are interchangeable, it doesn't matter what order they're in...
Great video. How can I remove the burnt connecter without hardwiring?
Cut it out and replace it with a new connector... I would recommend the 'heavy duty' Hot Shot Wiring Harness Connector Kit from Rick's Motorsport Electrics... I ended up using this kit after leaving my 848 hardwired for about a year... read the description and you will see why...
@@Track848 part will be here Friday thank you
Thanks for sharing this, I have a similar stator of a washing machine with a burned wire harness and I'm thinking about hardwiring it, your opinion matters, should I proceed or there may be worse side effects?
Hi Rabi, I would like to help but I know absolutely nothing about washing machines (your question has piqued my interest though)! Good luck!
@@Track848 Thanks for your reply.
@@Track848 I just want to say ITS WORKED, Thanks for the idea.
@@rabinassar That's great! Now we know!!! 💯👍🏻👍🏻
Does it make any difference the yellow wires like you can just connect with any yellow wire or they all different?
The three yellow wires are interchangeable...
Awesome video! Does it matter which yellow wires from my R/R go to the stator wires? Like is there an order? Or does it not matter? Thanks!!
The yellow wires are interchangeable, Bradley... good luck!