Just started watching your videos. I'm a heavy equipment technician and just wanted to say that your presentations are excellent. Keep on putting out these quality videos, please. It gives me hope in humanity.
@Rmstatorinc , maybe you know what may be wrong? CBR600F4. Issues only at idle, none with higher RPMs. Measured resistance, 0,6-0,7 between terminals cold, 0,7-0,8 hot [does not exceed 0,1 for same terminals]. No continuity between terminals and ground hot or cold. Measured stator's output, all 3 wires. It is pretty steady - from 10V at 1k rpm going steadily upwards 10V at each 1k rpm, to 70V at 7k rpm. Same hot or cold. Seems ok? RR gives 14V when started cold [around 2,3k RPM]. On idle [1,4k rpm]: - goes to 13,5-14 [fluctuates] when hot. When lights ON, goes to 13,1, and then fluctuates between 12,9 to 13,5. - When ventilator kicks in [with lights off], drops to 12,9-13V; with lights on drops to 12,5 and sometimes lower, then starts dying and cuts out. This is extremely unpleasant at traffic lights when hot, cause it dies or dies when kicking in firs gear, and then it takes time to start and start moving [sometimes even does not start, i.e. starter runs but engine does not power on, like was flooded with gasoline...]. Several measurements show it takes 0,8-0,9 V for headlight [low beam], around 1V for ventilator. Is this ok? But it is slightly strange; if it generates 12V at 1200 rpm, it already undercharges the battery, not even compensating lights and ventilator. So naturally the battery charging shows around 12,5V at battery, as the electrical load uses battery's reserve. Is it supposed to be so low at low rpms? Run out of ideas, what may be wrong. If you have any ideas, will be very grateful :)
How can you identify what the wattage output is of a stator. Many Service manuals do not provide wattage only the resistance specs. I would like to know what Wattage out put my stator is rated at. I know all watts are cumulative - I want to know if my stator can run added lights and heated hand grips. Or whether I need an upgraded Staor.
You really cannot determine stator wattage without some extra equipment. It is done with a break-even test. Maintain ~5k RPM for full output from the stator, add load to the battery while measuring current out of the battery and monitoring voltage to maintain 13VDC or more. At the point you are drawing maximum current and you cannot maintain 13VDC, you have reached maximum output from the stator. You can then multiple maximum current x 13V to see total power in Watts your stator can source while still maintaining your battery. Hope this helps!
@@Rmstatorinc Thanks for the reply. My 1989 XR600 RX AU model did not have a battery just a Reg/Rec driving a Headlight , tail lights stop light and indicator set up at 12 V DC. so the output from the Pink Yellow lighting coil on my stator ( 3 wire only stator circuit) drives all lights dash lights and tail and indicators and horn I note that when indicators are on and you operate the horn , the horn pitch changes in time with the flasher relay. and head light also dims a little each flash. I am trying to see if I can keep adding other electrical draw without overloading the stator.
@@Rmstatorinc I think I figured out the problem of why I was frying the stator. The starter button on the handlebars doesn't work and the previous owner hot-wired a new starter button to the solenoid but the old starter button was still hooked up still. I'm not positive that's the problem but I'm pretty sure might be.
Testing a 2002 Triumph Daytona: Resistance accross yellow wires all 0.5 ohms. Open loop to ground (tested all three although not really needed) bike running at about 1,100 rpm obviously stator wires disconnected. Getting approx 23 volts ac on any pair of yellow wire. But I also get 13v ac on each yellow to the ground. Your video says should be zero? is there a problem or just a different setup.
Hello from Greece,you do great work,can i ask something.....motorbike is HONDA TRANSALP 700 and burn the stator conector to reg. rectifier ,i fix it with three separate ones cylindrical type conectors, is normal the stator cables (3 yelows) and the conectors to reg. rectifier to be warm (about 105-120"F) when the motor is runing...thank you...
Hi, i have a doubt about the stator output. I have a honda fourtrax 300 4x4 fwj, is it necessary to connect to the battery in order to get any output from the stator. I tried to rotate the magnet and try to touch the output wire from the stator to check whether it produces any spart or current in the coil but nothing comes. So is it necessary to connect to the battery for getting any output?
Awesome video and most straightforward explanation on testing the stator or rectifier. If my stator is reading .2 ohms for resistance between all tabs is it bad if it should be at .4?
Awesome and very informative video. Is there any stators that may have a short to ground or core that is normal? I have a Kawasaki Klx110 And I bought a new stator and it does give me a short to core when tested. I’m going to pick up the peak voltage adapter from you guys. Thanks!!
Thanks! Yes there are definitely stators that can have a short to ground. Our videos show generic/universal testing info that is specifically for 3-phase battery charging stators. These type are used on most larger street motorcycles and ATV's, and do no have a ground connection at all. However on many smaller motors, especially dirtbikes, it is common to have one side of the coil grounded. To be sure, you really need to refer to a wiring diagram or service manual for your particular year/make/model. The service manual will explain how to test, and if you should have a measurement to ground on any wires. Hope this helps!
Hello folks, have a italian enduro bike here that doest produce enough amp from the stock stator. I had an idea today, instead of the simple rectifier/regulator, which convert ac to dc and then strip off the excess voltage (convert to heat), why not using a rectifier (ac to dc 20-25v) and use a solar MPPT to convert the excess voltage to amps ? What you think about the idea ?
The meter needs to be set to the lowest resistance range for an accurate measurement. Remember you are trying to measure 0.6 ohms or so, the meter needs to be looking for this low range.
hi, great video , on a snowmobile to check for stator open ground would you ground it on frame or motor, ? Also is it possible a stator will only malfunction after getting hot,? after 30 minutes lets say ? thank- you
You can use the frame or the motor. Any clean metal connected to the frame is a ground. And yes, a stator can definitely short to ground only when hot.
Hi, I'm a bit confused on how to test the AC voltage output on my stator. I see on some sites people connect the negative lead of the multi meter to the battery and then with the stator unplugged just touch the positive to each of the three yellow wires while running the bike up to 5000 revs to take the reading, 50 60 70 vac etc. And then on other sites I see people doing it another way, not connecting the negative to the battery, but connecting the black and the red of the multimeter between the three yellow wires in series ? So what is the correct way ? I have a stator test on a KTM 990smt. Thanks
Hi, thanks for the videos! I did the static test between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 leads and got the right resistance value. But when I do the leads-to-ground I dont have Open Line but 1,50 Ohm instead. (manual says we should have OL when lead-to-ground) What does it mean when you get values doing the Ground test? Damaged stator or bad connection somewhere? Thanks a lot
To me it means NORMAL because the one lead that you have one of your test leads from the meter hooked to; that lead on the stator leads back to ground THROUGH THE COIL OR COILS themselves even if there are two or more coils hooked in series. So unless they have tremendous resistance they are going to provide a easy resistance connection back to ground where your other meter lead is hooked to.......there's a circuit so the meter shouldn't show it OPEN. Someone straighten me out here if I'm wrong.
@@bigpig41 There should be absolutely no connection to ground from any of the coils, if so, the coils are shorted to ground and the stator is bad. The meter when testing coils to ground should read open circuit, or OL, always.
Got any no spark checks for a can am ds 90? I mean, based off your videos it shows exactly what to check although getting specs is the tricky part. Did I mention you guys are awesome?
Hi, I noticed that my bikes battery is not charging. I replaced the old battery at about a 100 km ago the old one with a new lithium one. I checked the charge coming out of the rectifier end and got only a few millivolts. I checked the current and resistance on the regulator rectifier and it does work according to specs. I checked the rectifier itself, resistance between coils = 0.5 Ohms , within specs. No Short to body. Started the bike, rev up to 5000 rpm, multimeter on AC current shows 0.5 volts on each coil of the rectifier - no good. I checked the wires and connectors - All OK. I was told that the flywheel itself could be faulty, is that even a possibility? Any suggestions ?
Funny my stator tested fine on the static test but bad on dynamic. Em stator had all the specs on their website for me to test. Ordered a new rm stator works great
All 3 coils on a stator are connected together. Unless the coils are burned, broken, or disconnected, if you measure a short to ground on one, you will have it on all 3.
Showing a test that requires removal of the stator from the 'bike' is not too helpful for the owner. Might as well take it to a shop andpay for a diagnoses.
None of this testing requires removing the stator from the motor. You can easily measure the resistance at the connector, and check for a short to ground using any part of the motor or frame. I believe I cover that clearly in the video as well.
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
Just started watching your videos. I'm a heavy equipment technician and just wanted to say that your presentations are excellent. Keep on putting out these quality videos, please. It gives me hope in humanity.
instaBlaster.
Yes, this video is very professional thank you keep on making videos like this👍
@Rmstatorinc , maybe you know what may be wrong? CBR600F4. Issues only at idle, none with higher RPMs.
Measured resistance, 0,6-0,7 between terminals cold, 0,7-0,8 hot [does not exceed 0,1 for same terminals]. No continuity between terminals and ground hot or cold.
Measured stator's output, all 3 wires. It is pretty steady - from 10V at 1k rpm going steadily upwards 10V at each 1k rpm, to 70V at 7k rpm. Same hot or cold. Seems ok?
RR gives 14V when started cold [around 2,3k RPM].
On idle [1,4k rpm]:
- goes to 13,5-14 [fluctuates] when hot. When lights ON, goes to 13,1, and then fluctuates between 12,9 to 13,5.
- When ventilator kicks in [with lights off], drops to 12,9-13V; with lights on drops to 12,5 and sometimes lower, then starts dying and cuts out. This is extremely unpleasant at traffic lights when hot, cause it dies or dies when kicking in firs gear, and then it takes time to start and start moving [sometimes even does not start, i.e. starter runs but engine does not power on, like was flooded with gasoline...]. Several measurements show it takes 0,8-0,9 V for headlight [low beam], around 1V for ventilator. Is this ok?
But it is slightly strange; if it generates 12V at 1200 rpm, it already undercharges the battery, not even compensating lights and ventilator. So naturally the battery charging shows around 12,5V at battery, as the electrical load uses battery's reserve. Is it supposed to be so low at low rpms?
Run out of ideas, what may be wrong. If you have any ideas, will be very grateful :)
Excellent presentation! Nice to complete testing and not random bit testing.
Best explained video about test stators. Great job guys, thanks so much!!!
How can you identify what the wattage output is of a stator. Many Service manuals do not provide wattage only the resistance specs.
I would like to know what Wattage out put my stator is rated at.
I know all watts are cumulative - I want to know if my stator can run added lights and heated hand grips.
Or whether I need an upgraded Staor.
You really cannot determine stator wattage without some extra equipment. It is done with a break-even test. Maintain ~5k RPM for full output from the stator, add load to the battery while measuring current out of the battery and monitoring voltage to maintain 13VDC or more. At the point you are drawing maximum current and you cannot maintain 13VDC, you have reached maximum output from the stator. You can then multiple maximum current x 13V to see total power in Watts your stator can source while still maintaining your battery. Hope this helps!
@@Rmstatorinc Thanks for the reply. My 1989 XR600 RX AU model did not have a battery just a Reg/Rec driving a Headlight , tail lights stop light and indicator set up at 12 V DC. so the output from the Pink Yellow lighting coil on my stator ( 3 wire only stator circuit) drives all lights dash lights and tail and indicators and horn
I note that when indicators are on and you operate the horn , the horn pitch changes in time with the flasher relay. and head light also dims a little each flash. I am trying to see if I can keep adding other electrical draw without overloading the stator.
Look up the spec where? Not on your site. I can’t find spec for a 2016 Polaris sportsman 110 efi
Stator specs available here (specifications tab) for your rig:
rmstator.com/en_us/rms010-106983
Very detailed and specific instructions. Easy to understand
Great!
when testing my atv i get 0.4 but my book says it sould be 0.33 would that be right i have a 97 kawasaki prairie 400
That is perfectly fine. Most multimeters are not super accurate at this very low resistance. Being within 0.1V of the manual spec is fine.
Should the stator stay dry or does it matter if oil gets in the case and on the stator?
Most stators share crankcase oil to stay cool. They can definitely be oil covered with no problems.
@@Rmstatorinc I think I figured out the problem of why I was frying the stator. The starter button on the handlebars doesn't work and the previous owner hot-wired a new starter button to the solenoid but the old starter button was still hooked up still. I'm not positive that's the problem but I'm pretty sure might be.
Testing a 2002 Triumph Daytona: Resistance accross yellow wires all 0.5 ohms. Open loop to ground (tested all three although not really needed) bike running at about 1,100 rpm obviously stator wires disconnected. Getting approx 23 volts ac on any pair of yellow wire. But I also get 13v ac on each yellow to the ground. Your video says should be zero? is there a problem or just a different setup.
Hello from Greece,you do great work,can i ask something.....motorbike is HONDA TRANSALP 700 and burn the stator conector to reg. rectifier ,i fix it with three separate ones cylindrical type conectors, is normal the stator cables (3 yelows) and the conectors to reg. rectifier to be warm (about 105-120"F) when the motor is runing...thank you...
Very informative video.I would like to see a video on testing an older stator using contact points,example an old Rotax sled engine.Thanks
Can you show a rotax two stroke stator test. Or explain how to do it. I have the rota x 503 dual ignition. Thanks
Sure we will try to get that in the future. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi, i have a doubt about the stator output. I have a honda fourtrax 300 4x4 fwj, is it necessary to connect to the battery in order to get any output from the stator. I tried to rotate the magnet and try to touch the output wire from the stator to check whether it produces any spart or current in the coil but nothing comes. So is it necessary to connect to the battery for getting any output?
Awesome video and most straightforward explanation on testing the stator or rectifier. If my stator is reading .2 ohms for resistance between all tabs is it bad if it should be at .4?
I think it really depends on the stator but I would say .2 is still good, it still has low resistance which it should be.
Awesome and very informative video. Is there any stators that may have a short to ground or core that is normal? I have a Kawasaki Klx110 And I bought a new stator and it does give me a short to core when tested.
I’m going to pick up the peak voltage adapter from you guys.
Thanks!!
Thanks! Yes there are definitely stators that can have a short to ground. Our videos show generic/universal testing info that is specifically for 3-phase battery charging stators. These type are used on most larger street motorcycles and ATV's, and do no have a ground connection at all. However on many smaller motors, especially dirtbikes, it is common to have one side of the coil grounded. To be sure, you really need to refer to a wiring diagram or service manual for your particular year/make/model. The service manual will explain how to test, and if you should have a measurement to ground on any wires. Hope this helps!
Hello folks, have a italian enduro bike here that doest produce enough amp from the stock stator. I had an idea today, instead of the simple rectifier/regulator, which convert ac to dc and then strip off the excess voltage (convert to heat), why not using a rectifier (ac to dc 20-25v) and use a solar MPPT to convert the excess voltage to amps ? What you think about the idea ?
This was a really good been at motorcycle mechanic for 45 years very informative video billionaire do Bill Leonardo
What is the resistance is zero? 0.00ohms between the phase wires.
The meter needs to be set to the lowest resistance range for an accurate measurement. Remember you are trying to measure 0.6 ohms or so, the meter needs to be looking for this low range.
when you check voltage there can i check this somehow if my bike doesnt run? by maybe just turning to power to the bike on?
hi, great video , on a snowmobile to check for stator open ground would you ground it on frame or motor, ?
Also is it possible a stator will only malfunction after getting hot,? after 30 minutes lets say ?
thank- you
You can use the frame or the motor. Any clean metal connected to the frame is a ground. And yes, a stator can definitely short to ground only when hot.
Hi, I'm a bit confused on how to test the AC voltage output on my stator.
I see on some sites people connect the negative lead of the multi meter to the battery and then with the stator unplugged just touch the positive to each of the three yellow wires while running the bike up to 5000 revs to take the reading, 50 60 70 vac etc.
And then on other sites I see people doing it another way, not connecting the negative to the battery, but connecting the black and the red of the multimeter between the three yellow wires in series ? So what is the correct way ? I have a stator test on a KTM 990smt. Thanks
Hi, thanks for the videos!
I did the static test between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 leads and got the right resistance value.
But when I do the leads-to-ground I dont have Open Line but 1,50 Ohm instead. (manual says we should have OL when lead-to-ground)
What does it mean when you get values doing the Ground test? Damaged stator or bad connection somewhere? Thanks a lot
To me it means NORMAL because the one lead that you have one of your test leads from the meter hooked to; that lead on the stator leads back to ground THROUGH THE COIL OR COILS themselves even if there are two or more coils hooked in series. So unless they have tremendous resistance they are going to provide a easy resistance connection back to ground where your other meter lead is hooked to.......there's a circuit so the meter shouldn't show it OPEN. Someone straighten me out here if I'm wrong.
@@bigpig41 There should be absolutely no connection to ground from any of the coils, if so, the coils are shorted to ground and the stator is bad. The meter when testing coils to ground should read open circuit, or OL, always.
Got any no spark checks for a can am ds 90? I mean, based off your videos it shows exactly what to check although getting specs is the tricky part. Did I mention you guys are awesome?
Hi,
I noticed that my bikes battery is not charging.
I replaced the old battery at about a 100 km ago the old one with a new lithium one.
I checked the charge coming out of the rectifier end and got only a few millivolts.
I checked the current and resistance on the regulator rectifier and it does work according to specs.
I checked the rectifier itself, resistance between coils = 0.5 Ohms , within specs. No Short to body.
Started the bike, rev up to 5000 rpm, multimeter on AC current shows 0.5 volts on each coil of the rectifier - no good.
I checked the wires and connectors - All OK. I was told that the flywheel itself could be faulty, is that even a possibility?
Any suggestions ?
I miss volt test of source coil. Googled a lot. I have Ohm on the source coil, but no volt cranking the engine. ??
nice lathe. is it build for the purpose or a comercial one?
Great video
Thank you for such a wealth of knowledge
Can stators be clean in a ultrasonic cleaner without doing damage
Funny my stator tested fine on the static test but bad on dynamic. Em stator had all the specs on their website for me to test. Ordered a new rm stator works great
So what if all three are grounded out? Is that common
All 3 coils on a stator are connected together. Unless the coils are burned, broken, or disconnected, if you measure a short to ground on one, you will have it on all 3.
Wow . Am just enjoying every single video i watch🤗👍. I just like your approach to detail
hard to see the test procedure for the stator with the source coils for ignition
ID IDLE WHEN I HOOK 2 YELLOW WIRES, I GOT 4.6 VOLT A/C AND 11.2 VOLTS A/C AT 2000 RPM . IS THAT TOO LOW
Sir how to test my stator coil honda xr200r 1998 model noting spark in spark plug
Where do I find the correct measures ,can I just send it to you ,have you check and repair if needed ,its a 1991 wra 650 Yamaha what's your phone # ?
What I get no resistant reading between coils. No .04.
great video, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanx for the great video, I was having trouble and you have been very helpful
Glad to hear it!
Loved the video. Very informal. That a subscribe from me
Thanks!
thanks!
What is if I have 0 ohms? It is ok?
it is 4 Ohms and not 0.4 right?
Very good
Škoda že není v češtině
What if u have 1.4ohms
Would it be good or bad
Mine is 3 phase with pick up
Showing a test that requires removal of the stator from the 'bike' is not too helpful for the owner. Might as well take it to a shop andpay for a diagnoses.
None of this testing requires removing the stator from the motor. You can easily measure the resistance at the connector, and check for a short to ground using any part of the motor or frame. I believe I cover that clearly in the video as well.
Are you dense or something .these are examples. You can leave it on the bike and do it .
Galk yazik 3taya abda mofid
Sorry I'm not sure what you mean?
Sir how to test my stator coil honda xr200r 1998 model noting spark in spark plug