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This is such a great and generous video to show us how to do this ourselves, rather than paying many hundreds of dollars to someone else. Awesome Instruction! Thanks!
Thank for the disassemble and reassemble videos!! I live in Ketchikan Alaska on an island no one does pool table moving. Bought a Brunswick table for cheap because they wanted nothing to do with it. Your video got me a score! Thanks for the assistance!
Thank God I found this video. I knew it was going to be a challenge. The biggest save from this video was the final leveling side to side. I was trying to do it during the initial leveling. I unfortunately used bees wax, nervous of that leaching through. Is there something I can do to fix that from happening? Like a barrier of some kind. It gets hot in the room it's installed in.
Thank you so much for this informative, step-by-step video. I just got my late brother's almost new pool table and had to get it moved and setup in my basement. This and the disassembly video are excellent! Thanks again.
Doug. I want to say thanks so much for your video on "How to disassemble a pool table THE RIGHT WAY!" and this follow-up video "How to Assemble a Pool Table (COMPLETE GUIDE)". With the help of your great step by step videos I was able to disassemble, move 900 miles and then reassemble the same table at my new location.
Findjng your channel is an absolute godsend - I just bought this exact same table and had a day to disassemble (purchased from estate sale with professional movers booked for 2 weeks).. just finished with a few friends and am now going assembly. Great content
Great video ! I’ve been watching your videos for a few months and I feel confident that I’ll be able to do the work needed when I finally find the right table.
Great job, great video, I've learned a lot here. I'm trying to sell my Brunswick table and I watched a mechanic install it some 16 years ago and really never considered the amount of work involved. Your video displayed great craftsmanship and knowledge. Thank you very much!
I'd love to see an Olhausen table redone or disassembled, I understand their construction is somewhat different. I'm thinking of taking one over from a friend and it needs a little love. Thanks for sharing your knowledge by the way.
This video is awesome thank you so much for this video..I am about to move a 8ft windsor by brunswick and have been telling my wife that disassemble and reassemble would be much easier ..your video makes me feel very confident that I can do this with just taking my time and care
Yes, I want to see a video of you redoing pockets. Also made me think of another video idea. Pool table maintenance. My table has leather covered rails and I'm wondering how I should go about restoring them and then how to maintain after that.
Thanks Doug, I was gifted a table which now after last night is pretty much ready for the felt. Any reason why the previous assembler would have used adhesive at the pockets? And since you mentioned it, I had to take it apart and move it from the other house and easily 350 staples I had to remove. Ugghh. Thanks in advance.
Now that you know how your table goes back together, you might want to know how to put new felt on it. Check out my "How to Recover a Pool Table" video to find out how! th-cam.com/video/Suu7SbG_ol0/w-d-xo.html
Hey thanks for the vid! I noticed you didn’t use Bondo on the screw holes for the slate itself only the seam that joins the pieces. Is there a need to fill in the slate screw down holes with bondo? Also how do you go about removing the bondo from the seams if you were to separate the slate again without damaging anything?
It will chip off the slate without much problem. That's just a educated prediction without using bondo on slate but I believe it's consistent with other applications.
Great Job! I've had a little prior experience, but this really gave me a great refresher and some new tips that increased my confidence for assembling my new Ohaulsen Pool Table! Thanks So Much!
YES.....I ALWAYS WATCH ALL OF THE VIDEOS.....I DON'T SKIP AROUND.....AND YES I WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE VIDEO ABOUT THE CLOTH CHOICES AND QUALITY.....GREAT INFORMATION.....AND I LEARNED A LOT.....AGAIN.....THANKS..... B-T-W.....WHAT DOES IT COST TO DO A SERVICE LIKE THIS ONE?....AND HOW MUCH MORE WOULD IT HAVE COST THE CUSTOMER TO ADD A NEW CLOTH WITH THIS JOB?....ALSO.....CAN THE CLOTH HAVE AN IMAGE PRINTED OR SILK-SCREENED ONTO IT.....AND WILL THE "IMAGE INK" AFFECT THE BALL TRAVEL ON THE TABLE?....
He visto la mayoría de tus videos y casi todos son con mesas de 7pies hay alguno con una de 9pies saludos desde Venezuela 🇻🇪 y sigue que eres muy bueno y directo en tu trabajo arriba campeón
Veery good no es bueno mi inglés 🤣🤣 pero esa misma noche vi un video que tienes de una de 9pies te felicito un abrazo y sigue me facina tu franqueza campeón
I found a good table. Disassembly was just how it was outlined in your disassembly video. When I put it together can I put the bondo over where the previous owner had it waxed or should I completely remove the wax that is present? I’ve scraped off as much as will come off with a razor.
Thank you very much! We didn't use any glue on that table. It was done solely with staples. I do have another couple of videos showing how we adhere cloth using glue. Check out the "How to Recover a Coin Operated Table" video.
I've had to watch your video while my husband has been installing and recovering a pool table he bought recently for his playroom. You and David did a great job and I enjoyed it very much. There is one thing on this video that you could do a bit better. If possible, for us dummy's, zoom in when your working on the pockets and leveling. Don't assume we know what you're talking about. Thanks for the video. 💚💚
First off, really appreciate the amount of information you provided. Is the assembly details you provided on this Brunswick table the same as it would be for a 9’ Olhausen table? Also, my table will be 23 years old as I reassemble and you’ve suggested at this Agee, the cloth should be replaced. Is that primary due to age or wear? If so, I’ll have another one of your video’s to review. Again, much thanks and keep up the outstanding information.
Do you do mail order pocket repair/restoration? I have an early 1900's 10ft Brunswick Arcadian that I'm restoring, and I feel confident doing the restoration except for the leather pockets. Thanks for the videos BTW, learned alot!
When you disassembled the table, did you mark which leg went in to which corner? Or does it really not matter? Also, a tip for centering...I love the Self-Centering tape measures for this reason.
Completely unnecessary to mark which leg goes where (same thing for rails). Most manufacturers don't make their own legs (especially "carved" or turned legs). There are specialty woodworking shops overseas (usually in either China, Vietnam, or Hong Kong) that have CNC (Computer Numerically Controlled) duplicating machines and lathes. And the pool table manufacturers buy legs in bulk from those places (cheaper to buy this way, less employees, and less overhead as far as machinery and electricity). So, each and every leg is made to within a couple of thousandths of the master. Differences in the way carpet matts or carpet padding will make more of a difference when leveling the table than the difference in leg height. Now, here's where it does matter..... If you have one side of the table that receives more sunlight than another, the sun will bleach out the stain on the wood. So, you can have 4 legs on a table and two are significantly lighter than the other two. In which case, I would try to keep the lighter legs on the lighter side of the table.
I’m buying, moving and recovering a Cannon table, I believe it is the Georgian model. Your videos are very informative, thank you. Have you come across many Cannon tables? Is there anything I should look out for with this manufacturer? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great job guys. Thanks for the video. I was wondering what are the outer dimensions of slate when they are all assembled together. Im thinking of making my own pool table using something other than slate/mdf. Thanks
Thank you - you're a star. But help - here in the UK we've got all kinds of bondo: putty, resin, glue, filler... can you clarify the type you use for us, or what I should be looking for? (Unless you want to visit and construct our table...?) Cheers!
You are amazing! Thank you so much for all of your videos. I bought a contender table made by Brunswick but unfortunately I live in a rural area and there's not anyone willing to move it for me. I have watched how to break down video and how to put it back together. I didn't miss a step. I feel confident I can handle. I do have some of the tools you have listed but I'm not wanting to get in the moving business do is there anyway you could list the tools I will definitely need to list for a one time move just to get by. I don't want to spend $1k for all the tools just to use some only one time. I will be buying and replacing the felt. So any help would be appreciated. I cant thank you enough!
Thank you for the compliment! At a bare minimum, you'll need a 5/16", 1/2", and 9/16" sockets (deep well) on 3/8" drive, a scratch awl, a GOOD level, a pair of wire cutters or a pair of pliers, a hand-stapler (with staples), a hammer, and a hard block of wood with sharp edges. That'll get you through the job - not very fast, mind you. But, it will get you through it. Let me know how it worked out for you!
@@CreativeRestorations Update!! I went to the sellers house and broke the table down. It took about 1.5hrs and the guy said it looked like I been breaking down tables for yrs😂 I got it home and got the slates on and I'm stuck at leveling it. I started at high side and worked my way down but the last slate isn't cooperating. Seems like there is a build up of about 3/16 where the slates meet and the other end of that slate needs to go way down and its pressed to the top of table. No wedge. I will figure it out though. Just had to take a break. I have time while I wait on my new felt top to come in. I will say the only thing that was stapled was the pockets. Everything else was glued with adhesive spray. I was suprised at that after watching your video pulling out 5,000 staples lol.
You're more than welcome to go watch someone else's videos. I'm sure they'll appreciate your salty comments about as much as I do. However, I'm glad you watched and enjoyed it.
This video was quite enjoyable to watch, didn't mind the long format, nice to see a pro work beginning to end. I'm curious if you know any information on AMF 7300 series table, I've spent quite a bit of time researching and am coming up short a lot on any information pertaining to this table
There are WAY too many different manufacturers and models that have been made over the last 100 years for me to know all of them. My only suggestion is, since you can't seem to find any info on that specific table, inspect it with a fine-toothed-comb. Make sure everything is built well and out of good, solid materials. AMF did make some "dogs" when they were in business. But, they also made some extremely good tables. Don't fall in love with it until after you've figured out that it's a good one AND you've already made the purchase. Falling in love with any given table before you've actually purchased it is a sure-fire way of paying too much for it. Wish you luck!
I just added some of the tools in the description. But, in the description of some of my other videos, you'll find the links to some of the other tools and supplies. I'll try to get the rest of them added to the description this weekend. Thanks for watching!!!!!
DOPE VIDEO!!!! Very professional and your funny. Was gonna do this myself but Im taking your advice and getting a professional. What do you $$ charge for breakdown and rebuild ?
Thank you! What I charge varies depending on the brand and size of the table, where it's being moved from and to, and what other work needs to be done. Base price these days (thanks to everything being so expensive) is $600.
The side rails should be perfectly in line with each other (on each side). But, as far as "square" is concerned, the placement of the rail bolt holes is generally sufficient. We're only talking about 1/4" or so in any direction that the rail can move within the holes. So, that doesn't effect how "square" the rails are to any appreciable degree. But, again, the side rails should be PERFECTLY in line.
Hello, enjoying your videos. Quick question. What brand is the pool table shown in the main picture of this video? I’m not referring to the table in the video, rather the picture with the trestle base and the cutout that looks like a key hole. I have an opportunity to buy a used one that looks similar, but the owners does not know the brand and I am not finding anything on google search… 🤔 Thanks for your time!
Tell you the truth, I'm not sure. Just about every manufacturer at one time or another has made a table that looks very similar to that one. Sorry, wish I could be of more help.
Oh well, no worries. I wish I could send you pictures to see if it’s worth buying. The base looks identical to that picture of yours, but the wood on the sides almost looks hand carved. And the playing surface is thick Italian slate. It’s a bit of a gamble for $550…
I just found your channel today and really appreciate all of your work to teach us what to look for when we’re having our tables worked on. I’m in Orange Beach AL and have a professional from Pensacola coming over tomorrow to recover our table. I have two comments on your work. When I was new to pool tables I would get mad anytime someone put anything other than pool balls on the table. I’ve since learned that the cloth is very durable. My suggestion would be to not put your tools, tool boxes, etc.. on the playing surface. I think a new table owner might think that you are somehow putting undo wear and tear on their brand new table. Also, I think duct tape may leave a residue on the top of the table. When you’re placing spot on the table you may want to use painters tape or something instead.
I appreciate the input. If I were an auto mechanic I might be inclined to agree with you about the tools. However, my tools are kept VERY clean and the act of placing (not sliding them across the cloth) them on the cloth is causing no wear whatsoever. As for the tape, there is no residue. Residue from duct tape (as with all other tapes) happens from it being left in place for very long periods of time. In the 2-5 minutes I have tape on the rails, there isn't a bit of residue left behind. Also, I need a tape with high adhesion and flexibility so that my string line doesn't fall slack. Duct tape is perfect for the job. Thanks for watching.
@@CreativeRestorations Your answers are so courteous, helpful and totally professional. My son has a 4’x8’ Burroughes & Watts but two of the slates have a very slight crack that is filled with white compound, maybe Plaster of Paris but the first Billiard Tech I spoke to said that is probably not worth rehabbing it as it will never be 100%.. he was viewing photos so hopefully we can have him view it in person before making a decision. Hauled it up 3 flights of tight stairs and put it back together so hate to give up now. Is a crack always a fatal flaw. I watched another teaching video where experienced guy used slow setting JB Weld, something like Bondo.
@@brianbaker359 Thank you so much. Your tech could be right. I have repaired slates before. And they rarely come out 100%. Usually, I use marine epoxy. But, JB Weld would probably work just as well. A slate that's broken in half is actually easier to repair than a crack. The issue is getting the adhesive in the crack. If it's broken in half, at least you've got access to both sides. Typically, I would lay down wax paper on the top of one of the good slates, place the broken slate upside down on top of the previous one (this insures that the two halves stay perfectly flat), apply the adhesive, and then squeeze the two sides together. You've got to be certain that the pieces line up perfectly. I wouldn't use clamps. Place more wax paper over the repair and then put your third slate on top for pressure. This isn't a guaranteed fix. But, it can work.
Hi Doug it would be nice to see a video of you redoing the wood on a rail where the wood is so chewed up by years and years of stapling that you would have to put a brand new or router out and insert new wood. Thanks for the great videos.
I'd love to do that video. And, it's one I have plans to do. But, I have to wait for a job that requires it first. Can't just go putting a router to a customer's perfectly good rail! LOL.
Great video. Question - i did not see you fill in the screw holes that secure the slate to the table.....Is there a need to fill them in as well as the seams in the slate?
I don't fill in screw holes unless they protrude into the playfield. It's pointless to fill them. Plus, when the table gets taken apart, that filler has to be chipped out. One wrong blow of the hammer and you could blow out a chunk of slate along with the filler. Now, if the screw holes protrude into the playfield, absolutely. You would have to fill them. But, just because you might be able to feel them under the lip of the rail, you don't necessarily have to fill them. You would only fill them if the ball would roll over them.
@@CreativeRestorations Thanks for the quick response. Makes sense. I have a used pool table (Olhausen) that does have recessed screws along the center that will need filling. Also - any recommendation for leveling the slates if you don't have a machinist level?
What a great video! I have an Olhausen (with a drawer) and I don't think I can use the method in this video to level the table from side to side as you did in this video. You mentioned that alternatives existed. Do you have any videos or descriptions of those alternatives? Thanks in advance, and thanks again for posting this video. It was amazing.
The drawer underneath shouldn't be a problem with leveling the slates or the entire table. If it is, remove the drawer prior to installation, preform the necessary leveling as outlined in the video, and reinstall the drawer. I have seen some tables where it really is impossible to get to the center of the slates under the table. There's nothing that can be done in that case other than float the Bondo out as wide as possible for a smooth transition from slate to slate. Wish I could be of more help.
I truly appreciate your videos and willingness to share your knowledge! I need to replace the rubber on my rails. I have watched your videos on rubbers and I might have missed it but what is your favorite type of rubber to replace it with. I am rated a 6 on the BCA scale so that you understand where I am playing ability wise. I want something that will last for a while but also has pretty good playability. I think i need to buy artemis but I wanted your opinion if there is something better and or cheaper or is artemis the way to go? Also would a battery powered stapler work or should i buy a compressor style stapler for some reason that I am not seeing. Thank you for everything you share with the world!
I would ONLY recommend Artemis if you're a pro. Otherwise, you won't notice a difference between Artemis and Brunswick "Superspeed" or Championship "Tour Edition" rubber. Personally, I would go with the Tour Edition. It all comes down to diminishing returns. That 1-5% difference between the two would only be appreciated by the absolute top-tier players. Also, you'll pay triple the price for Artemis only to gain a 1-5% bump in accuracy. As for longevity, that's going to depend entirely on where you have the table and the conditions under which you keep it when it isn't in use. Is it in a room that gets a lot of sunlight? Is it covered by something that blocks UV rays when it isn't in use? Are there wild humidity and temperature fluctuations in that room from day to day, week to week, or month to month? Keeping a table in a room that stays under consistent atmospheric conditions and away from UV light (of any kind) will prolong the life of rubber by DECADES! I've seen 80 year old rubber that was as good as the day it was first put on the table. I've also seen 2 year old rubber that was hard as a rock.
Am I wrong to think moving blankets under each of the frame sides to ensure they are scratched by a stray pebble, sand, or dirt between the wood floor and the cabinet is a good ounce of prevention?
Could you comment on felts, and 'brands' (Presidents?), and also I see no interior 'finish' or end-grain finish on that Brunswick, doesn't that tend to 'allow' it to pick-up moister on one side, and not the other... and 'warp' a bit over the years (ether dry out, or absorb)... any thoughts?
I'm in the process of moving a 1976 Brunswick Limited IX I just purchased and I have picked up a ton of info from your vids. Thank you so much! I definitely want to see a video about pool table cloths as you mentioned in the video. Im debating on Simonis 860 and Simonis 860HR. I'd be open to any other advice though. Another thing I wondered is are you an actual pool player and what caliber?
It's my pleasure! I plan on doing a video specifically about cloth. A LOT of people either don't really know much about cloth or they've got misinformation. I really want to clear the air about the whole subject. As for me playing pool... I used to play..... a LOT!!! Not so much any more. I was a 7 in APA. Just got tired of playing. It was my hobby. Now, leatherwork and TH-cam are my hobbies. LOL.
The table I have doesn't have slate screws. It uses longer rail bolts to hold the slate to the frame. Do you have any secrets to get a nice fit before putting down the cloth or do I just need to be very careful to not disturb it?
My level is the Starrett 98-12. Each graduation on the level is .005 over 1 foot. However, if your bubble reads exactly the same distance from both of the middle graduations, you're less than .005 off (more like less than .001 off). The distance between graduations is about 3/16". So, if 3/16" bubble movement equals .005" high or low, you can get the table EXTREMELY level just using a 98-12. There are a lot of instances where you run across diminishing returns. Using a level that's .0005 as opposed to .005 is one of those instances. You won't see ANY ball drift due to unlevel slate if you properly use the 98-12 (.005).
Can you tell me what Machinest Levelr you're using. Exact size as well? I'm seeing 4" to 12" Machinest Levelers everywhere. The big box stores don't have them. I went looking today.
This is the exact level I use: amzn.to/34z0qVP If you buy it through the Amazon link, not only will you save a bit of money, but, it will kick a couple of bucks my way too!
What do you use to remove old thick wax off of the slate when moving a table (sandpaper?), and do you have to fill the slate screw holes with bondo? The table I just bought had the slate screw holes files with wax.
Sandpaper will work just fine. I typically don't bother filling the screw holes. It just depends on if the holes lay under the rails or if they intrude into the play field.
with all your expertice, you can make billard or pool tables of any size with just hand electric tools. no need to buy factory machineries.just order slates. sell it for a reasonable price. you and david can do it
@@CreativeRestorations regular Brunswick rails that come with a table have a flat edge or the ball hits and speed rails from Brunswick are wider and they make the pocket sit deeper I think
I only fill the screw holes if they would interfere with the roll of the ball. If they're far enough under the rails, no. If they protrude into the playfield, yes. I use automotive Bondo. Good example would be Olhausen. They drill holes into the center of the slate. Those must be filled.
@@CreativeRestorations well keep up the great work. It’s funny that you made the work Apron for the elegant oxford. I subscribed to him about a year ago. What are the odds lol
I think it's a testament to your appreciation for good work! As for shuffleboards.... I know a bit about them. But, they're not all that popular here in the Gulf South. I've installed and moved one or two. But, not enough to consider myself proficient at them.
@@CreativeRestorations I played on one of those once at a hall in Washington DC and wondered how much it must have weighed. I grew up in Western Kansas and we only had snooker halls. I don't know why. I didn't see an eight-ball table until I went to college. Learning on a snooker table had real advantages. At that DC pool hall there was a group of people and Britsh guy was explaining how snooker was played and I offered to play him. I won on the seven ball. One of the highlights of my life.
1:45:00 A selection process that I am involved has ALWAYS been and will ALWAYS be selecting the most qualified persons for the job. Any other method as unlawful discrimation, is it not?. Employing disabled persons is an exception of course.
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Thanks for sharing your wisdom, very insightful, saved my sanity on the leveling.
This is such a great and generous video to show us how to do this ourselves, rather than paying many hundreds of dollars to someone else.
Awesome Instruction!
Thanks!
Great video, kept waiting for you to show how you checked balance from left to right...never say that you did. Thanks for the video!
I like your Bonsai tree. Thanks for a very informative video.
Very helpful information. Thank you for taking the time to create this video.
Thank for the disassemble and reassemble videos!! I live in Ketchikan Alaska on an island no one does pool table moving. Bought a Brunswick table for cheap because they wanted nothing to do with it. Your video got me a score! Thanks for the assistance!
Rural Missouri here, I’m in the same boat
Excellent, extremely helpful video and the best I have seen on assembly of a pool table. Saved me a few headaches along the way.
Honesty, Respect, and Articulation are key when speaking to a client.
Great video. I can tell you do quality work. Really appreciate you putting this on TH-cam
Thanks Doug for the video. Been shooting pool for 60 years and had never seen a complete slate top assembly. Fascinating and an excellent job.
Thank God I found this video. I knew it was going to be a challenge. The biggest save from this video was the final leveling side to side. I was trying to do it during the initial leveling. I unfortunately used bees wax, nervous of that leaching through. Is there something I can do to fix that from happening? Like a barrier of some kind. It gets hot in the room it's installed in.
david
is
an
EXPERT!!!
Thank you so much for this informative, step-by-step video. I just got my late brother's almost new pool table and had to get it moved and setup in my basement. This and the disassembly video are excellent! Thanks again.
Perfect video since we are getting a used (in great shape) table tomorrow. Thank You very much!
Watched the whole video, excellent use of time. Thank I for doing it
Doug. I want to say thanks so much for your video on "How to disassemble a pool table THE RIGHT WAY!" and this follow-up video "How to Assemble a Pool Table (COMPLETE GUIDE)". With the help of your great step by step videos I was able to disassemble, move 900 miles and then reassemble the same table at my new location.
Findjng your channel is an absolute godsend - I just bought this exact same table and had a day to disassemble (purchased from estate sale with professional movers booked for 2 weeks).. just finished with a few friends and am now going assembly. Great content
Thanks, I just purchased a 7 foot Golden West table and I now think I can do it myself. This was a very good tutorial start to finish.
Great video ! I’ve been watching your videos for a few months and I feel confident that I’ll be able to do the work needed when I finally find the right table.
Thank you for the in-depth videos on disassembling and installing a pool table. Very informative and helpful!
Excellent job with the setting up and also with the video work and narrating. With a helper and this video, I believe I could do this.
Such great information is explained in detail very clearly. Very nicely done.
Great job, great video, I've learned a lot here. I'm trying to sell my Brunswick table and I watched a mechanic install it some 16 years ago and really never considered the amount of work involved. Your video displayed great craftsmanship and knowledge.
Thank you very much!
You’re the King, thank you so much! 🤘🏼
I'd love to see an Olhausen table redone or disassembled, I understand their construction is somewhat different. I'm thinking of taking one over from a friend and it needs a little love. Thanks for sharing your knowledge by the way.
Yes, please do a complete video on installing a new cloth replacement.
th-cam.com/video/Suu7SbG_ol0/w-d-xo.html
This video is awesome thank you so much for this video..I am about to move a 8ft windsor by brunswick and have been telling my wife that disassemble and reassemble would be much easier ..your video makes me feel very confident that I can do this with just taking my time and care
Yes, I want to see a video of you redoing pockets.
Also made me think of another video idea. Pool table maintenance. My table has leather covered rails and I'm wondering how I should go about restoring them and then how to maintain after that.
I enjoy your videos and hope to see more God bless you.
Thank you!! I almost used beeswax and it gets 115 here in the summer in my garage. Big save! Just got a 9' golden west cudtom built table for free!
Excellent. Great detail...
Thank you for a wonderful presentation. I now know more than I will ever need but it was very interesting.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful video, thank you for creating and sharing
Very good information. I was wondering, how do you line up the dots and semi circular break area for snooker?
Would love to see work done on a Connelly Ultimate. Anything unique about a 2” slate? 4 pieces?
Thanks Doug, I was gifted a table which now after last night is pretty much ready for the felt. Any reason why the previous assembler would have used adhesive at the pockets? And since you mentioned it, I had to take it apart and move it from the other house and easily 350 staples I had to remove. Ugghh. Thanks in advance.
Thanks The Elegent Oxford for suggesting such an awesome guy.
Now that you know how your table goes back together, you might want to know how to put new felt on it. Check out my "How to Recover a Pool Table" video to find out how!
th-cam.com/video/Suu7SbG_ol0/w-d-xo.html
Hey thanks for the vid! I noticed you didn’t use Bondo on the screw holes for the slate itself only the seam that joins the pieces. Is there a need to fill in the slate screw down holes with bondo? Also how do you go about removing the bondo from the seams if you were to separate the slate again without damaging anything?
It will chip off the slate without much problem. That's just a educated prediction without using bondo on slate but I believe it's consistent with other applications.
Great Job! I've had a little prior experience, but this really gave me a great refresher and some new tips that increased my confidence for assembling my new Ohaulsen Pool Table! Thanks So Much!
Beautiful Sunday
great video has really helped to this point. Would a 20 gauge or 23 gauge staple work as well as the 22 gauge?
YES.....I ALWAYS WATCH ALL OF THE VIDEOS.....I DON'T SKIP AROUND.....AND YES I WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE VIDEO ABOUT THE CLOTH CHOICES AND QUALITY.....GREAT INFORMATION.....AND I LEARNED A LOT.....AGAIN.....THANKS.....
B-T-W.....WHAT DOES IT COST TO DO A SERVICE LIKE THIS ONE?....AND HOW MUCH MORE WOULD IT HAVE COST THE CUSTOMER TO ADD A NEW CLOTH WITH THIS JOB?....ALSO.....CAN THE CLOTH HAVE AN IMAGE PRINTED OR SILK-SCREENED ONTO IT.....AND WILL THE "IMAGE INK" AFFECT THE BALL TRAVEL ON THE TABLE?....
For cloth that’s over 14 years old ( if the owner or owners of the table still has the same cloth today as in this video) still look really nice.
Also, the table I purchased a used Gore Gulch collection by Vitalie 8'. Paid $1200 it was in great shape. Was this a decent price?
He visto la mayoría de tus videos y casi todos son con mesas de 7pies hay alguno con una de 9pies saludos desde Venezuela 🇻🇪 y sigue que eres muy bueno y directo en tu trabajo arriba campeón
Las técnicas son exactamente las mismas independientemente del tamaño de la mesa. ¡Gracias por ver!
Veery good no es bueno mi inglés 🤣🤣 pero esa misma noche vi un video que tienes de una de 9pies te felicito un abrazo y sigue me facina tu franqueza campeón
I found a good table. Disassembly was just how it was outlined in your disassembly video. When I put it together can I put the bondo over where the previous owner had it waxed or should I completely remove the wax that is present? I’ve scraped off as much as will come off with a razor.
You can go over the waxed sections with some lacquer thinner. That would remove any residual wax from the surface.
Great video, I didn't see what you used the adhesive spray on. The only thing I seen was the bondo to cover where the slates met
Thank you very much!
We didn't use any glue on that table. It was done solely with staples. I do have another couple of videos showing how we adhere cloth using glue. Check out the "How to Recover a Coin Operated Table" video.
I've had to watch your video while my husband has been installing and recovering a pool table he bought recently for his playroom. You and David did a great job and I enjoyed it very much. There is one thing on this video that you could do a bit better. If possible, for us dummy's, zoom in when your working on the pockets and leveling. Don't assume we know what you're talking about. Thanks for the video. 💚💚
I appreciate the input. And, that's exactly why I put up additional videos showing each step individually.
Gotta keep people watching!!!!
@@CreativeRestorations Thank you for replying, I will look for them. Keep up the great work. People like you save us money.
Any tricks/special techniques used for moving one piece slates?
First off, really appreciate the amount of information you provided. Is the assembly details you provided on this Brunswick table the same as it would be for a 9’ Olhausen table? Also, my table will be 23 years old as I reassemble and you’ve suggested at this Agee, the cloth should be replaced. Is that primary due to age or wear? If so, I’ll have another one of your video’s to review. Again, much thanks and keep up the outstanding information.
Excellent video..especially because I have this exact table😀
Love your videos! Will it hurt to wash the felt before re-using it?
Do you do mail order pocket repair/restoration? I have an early 1900's 10ft Brunswick Arcadian that I'm restoring, and I feel confident doing the restoration except for the leather pockets.
Thanks for the videos BTW, learned alot!
When you disassembled the table, did you mark which leg went in to which corner? Or does it really not matter? Also, a tip for centering...I love the Self-Centering tape measures for this reason.
Completely unnecessary to mark which leg goes where (same thing for rails). Most manufacturers don't make their own legs (especially "carved" or turned legs). There are specialty woodworking shops overseas (usually in either China, Vietnam, or Hong Kong) that have CNC (Computer Numerically Controlled) duplicating machines and lathes. And the pool table manufacturers buy legs in bulk from those places (cheaper to buy this way, less employees, and less overhead as far as machinery and electricity). So, each and every leg is made to within a couple of thousandths of the master. Differences in the way carpet matts or carpet padding will make more of a difference when leveling the table than the difference in leg height.
Now, here's where it does matter..... If you have one side of the table that receives more sunlight than another, the sun will bleach out the stain on the wood. So, you can have 4 legs on a table and two are significantly lighter than the other two. In which case, I would try to keep the lighter legs on the lighter side of the table.
I’m buying, moving and recovering a Cannon table, I believe it is the Georgian model. Your videos are very informative, thank you. Have you come across many Cannon tables? Is there anything I should look out for with this manufacturer? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great job guys. Thanks for the video. I was wondering what are the outer dimensions of slate when they are all assembled together. Im thinking of making my own pool table using something other than slate/mdf. Thanks
Thank you - you're a star. But help - here in the UK we've got all kinds of bondo: putty, resin, glue, filler... can you clarify the type you use for us, or what I should be looking for? (Unless you want to visit and construct our table...?)
Cheers!
Its just regular car body filler
You are amazing! Thank you so much for all of your videos. I bought a contender table made by Brunswick but unfortunately I live in a rural area and there's not anyone willing to move it for me. I have watched how to break down video and how to put it back together. I didn't miss a step. I feel confident I can handle. I do have some of the tools you have listed but I'm not wanting to get in the moving business do is there anyway you could list the tools I will definitely need to list for a one time move just to get by. I don't want to spend $1k for all the tools just to use some only one time. I will be buying and replacing the felt. So any help would be appreciated. I cant thank you enough!
Thank you for the compliment!
At a bare minimum, you'll need a 5/16", 1/2", and 9/16" sockets (deep well) on 3/8" drive, a scratch awl, a GOOD level, a pair of wire cutters or a pair of pliers, a hand-stapler (with staples), a hammer, and a hard block of wood with sharp edges. That'll get you through the job - not very fast, mind you. But, it will get you through it.
Let me know how it worked out for you!
@@CreativeRestorations Update!! I went to the sellers house and broke the table down. It took about 1.5hrs and the guy said it looked like I been breaking down tables for yrs😂 I got it home and got the slates on and I'm stuck at leveling it. I started at high side and worked my way down but the last slate isn't cooperating. Seems like there is a build up of about 3/16 where the slates meet and the other end of that slate needs to go way down and its pressed to the top of table. No wedge. I will figure it out though. Just had to take a break. I have time while I wait on my new felt top to come in. I will say the only thing that was stapled was the pockets. Everything else was glued with adhesive spray. I was suprised at that after watching your video pulling out 5,000 staples lol.
I didn't tune in to hear you talk about nothing. But overall it was a great video and very informative. I'm impressed.
You're more than welcome to go watch someone else's videos. I'm sure they'll appreciate your salty comments about as much as I do. However, I'm glad you watched and enjoyed it.
@pat salters, don’t be a jerk
This video was quite enjoyable to watch, didn't mind the long format, nice to see a pro work beginning to end. I'm curious if you know any information on AMF 7300 series table, I've spent quite a bit of time researching and am coming up short a lot on any information pertaining to this table
There are WAY too many different manufacturers and models that have been made over the last 100 years for me to know all of them. My only suggestion is, since you can't seem to find any info on that specific table, inspect it with a fine-toothed-comb. Make sure everything is built well and out of good, solid materials.
AMF did make some "dogs" when they were in business. But, they also made some extremely good tables. Don't fall in love with it until after you've figured out that it's a good one AND you've already made the purchase. Falling in love with any given table before you've actually purchased it is a sure-fire way of paying too much for it.
Wish you luck!
Making a new set of pockets would be a great vid.
Great video. You mention in the end a list of the tools you used. Where can I find it?
I just added some of the tools in the description. But, in the description of some of my other videos, you'll find the links to some of the other tools and supplies. I'll try to get the rest of them added to the description this weekend.
Thanks for watching!!!!!
DOPE VIDEO!!!! Very professional and your funny. Was gonna do this myself but Im taking your advice and getting a professional. What do you $$ charge for breakdown and rebuild ?
Thank you!
What I charge varies depending on the brand and size of the table, where it's being moved from and to, and what other work needs to be done. Base price these days (thanks to everything being so expensive) is $600.
Hi doug. This was a great video. My question is if you ever square your rails, or are the holes close enough that you don't worry about it?
The side rails should be perfectly in line with each other (on each side). But, as far as "square" is concerned, the placement of the rail bolt holes is generally sufficient. We're only talking about 1/4" or so in any direction that the rail can move within the holes. So, that doesn't effect how "square" the rails are to any appreciable degree. But, again, the side rails should be PERFECTLY in line.
Hello, enjoying your videos. Quick question. What brand is the pool table shown in the main picture of this video? I’m not referring to the table in the video, rather the picture with the trestle base and the cutout that looks like a key hole. I have an opportunity to buy a used one that looks similar, but the owners does not know the brand and I am not finding anything on google search… 🤔 Thanks for your time!
Tell you the truth, I'm not sure. Just about every manufacturer at one time or another has made a table that looks very similar to that one.
Sorry, wish I could be of more help.
Oh well, no worries. I wish I could send you pictures to see if it’s worth buying. The base looks identical to that picture of yours, but the wood on the sides almost looks hand carved. And the playing surface is thick Italian slate. It’s a bit of a gamble for $550…
I just found your channel today and really appreciate all of your work to teach us what to look for when we’re having our tables worked on. I’m in Orange Beach AL and have a professional from Pensacola coming over tomorrow to recover our table.
I have two comments on your work. When I was new to pool tables I would get mad anytime someone put anything other than pool balls on the table. I’ve since learned that the cloth is very durable. My suggestion would be to not put your tools, tool boxes, etc.. on the playing surface. I think a new table owner might think that you are somehow putting undo wear and tear on their brand new table.
Also, I think duct tape may leave a residue on the top of the table. When you’re placing spot on the table you may want to use painters tape or something instead.
I appreciate the input.
If I were an auto mechanic I might be inclined to agree with you about the tools. However, my tools are kept VERY clean and the act of placing (not sliding them across the cloth) them on the cloth is causing no wear whatsoever. As for the tape, there is no residue. Residue from duct tape (as with all other tapes) happens from it being left in place for very long periods of time. In the 2-5 minutes I have tape on the rails, there isn't a bit of residue left behind. Also, I need a tape with high adhesion and flexibility so that my string line doesn't fall slack. Duct tape is perfect for the job.
Thanks for watching.
@@CreativeRestorations Your answers are so courteous, helpful and totally professional.
My son has a 4’x8’ Burroughes & Watts but two of the slates have a very slight crack that is filled with white compound, maybe Plaster of Paris but the first Billiard Tech I spoke to said that is probably not worth rehabbing it as it will never be 100%.. he was viewing photos so hopefully we can have him view it in person before making a decision. Hauled it up 3 flights of tight stairs and put it back together so hate to give up now. Is a crack always a fatal flaw. I watched another teaching video where experienced guy used slow setting JB Weld, something like Bondo.
@@brianbaker359 Thank you so much.
Your tech could be right. I have repaired slates before. And they rarely come out 100%. Usually, I use marine epoxy. But, JB Weld would probably work just as well.
A slate that's broken in half is actually easier to repair than a crack. The issue is getting the adhesive in the crack. If it's broken in half, at least you've got access to both sides. Typically, I would lay down wax paper on the top of one of the good slates, place the broken slate upside down on top of the previous one (this insures that the two halves stay perfectly flat), apply the adhesive, and then squeeze the two sides together.
You've got to be certain that the pieces line up perfectly. I wouldn't use clamps. Place more wax paper over the repair and then put your third slate on top for pressure.
This isn't a guaranteed fix. But, it can work.
Hi Doug it would be nice to see a video of you redoing the wood on a rail where the wood is so chewed up by years and years of stapling that you would have to put a brand new or router out and insert new wood.
Thanks for the great videos.
I'd love to do that video. And, it's one I have plans to do. But, I have to wait for a job that requires it first. Can't just go putting a router to a customer's perfectly good rail! LOL.
@@CreativeRestorations I was hoping you would have a spare rail laying around lol.
Maybe you could find a free table and use it for a video.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for one!
How about a video showing the process for an antique table with separate slate frames?
Great video. Question - i did not see you fill in the screw holes that secure the slate to the table.....Is there a need to fill them in as well as the seams in the slate?
I don't fill in screw holes unless they protrude into the playfield. It's pointless to fill them. Plus, when the table gets taken apart, that filler has to be chipped out. One wrong blow of the hammer and you could blow out a chunk of slate along with the filler.
Now, if the screw holes protrude into the playfield, absolutely. You would have to fill them. But, just because you might be able to feel them under the lip of the rail, you don't necessarily have to fill them. You would only fill them if the ball would roll over them.
@@CreativeRestorations Thanks for the quick response. Makes sense. I have a used pool table (Olhausen) that does have recessed screws along the center that will need filling. Also - any recommendation for leveling the slates if you don't have a machinist level?
What a great video! I have an Olhausen (with a drawer) and I don't think I can use the method in this video to level the table from side to side as you did in this video. You mentioned that alternatives existed. Do you have any videos or descriptions of those alternatives? Thanks in advance, and thanks again for posting this video. It was amazing.
The drawer underneath shouldn't be a problem with leveling the slates or the entire table. If it is, remove the drawer prior to installation, preform the necessary leveling as outlined in the video, and reinstall the drawer.
I have seen some tables where it really is impossible to get to the center of the slates under the table. There's nothing that can be done in that case other than float the Bondo out as wide as possible for a smooth transition from slate to slate.
Wish I could be of more help.
I truly appreciate your videos and willingness to share your knowledge! I need to replace the rubber on my rails. I have watched your videos on rubbers and I might have missed it but what is your favorite type of rubber to replace it with. I am rated a 6 on the BCA scale so that you understand where I am playing ability wise. I want something that will last for a while but also has pretty good playability. I think i need to buy artemis but I wanted your opinion if there is something better and or cheaper or is artemis the way to go? Also would a battery powered stapler work or should i buy a compressor style stapler for some reason that I am not seeing. Thank you for everything you share with the world!
I would ONLY recommend Artemis if you're a pro. Otherwise, you won't notice a difference between Artemis and Brunswick "Superspeed" or Championship "Tour Edition" rubber. Personally, I would go with the Tour Edition.
It all comes down to diminishing returns. That 1-5% difference between the two would only be appreciated by the absolute top-tier players. Also, you'll pay triple the price for Artemis only to gain a 1-5% bump in accuracy.
As for longevity, that's going to depend entirely on where you have the table and the conditions under which you keep it when it isn't in use. Is it in a room that gets a lot of sunlight? Is it covered by something that blocks UV rays when it isn't in use? Are there wild humidity and temperature fluctuations in that room from day to day, week to week, or month to month? Keeping a table in a room that stays under consistent atmospheric conditions and away from UV light (of any kind) will prolong the life of rubber by DECADES! I've seen 80 year old rubber that was as good as the day it was first put on the table. I've also seen 2 year old rubber that was hard as a rock.
Okay. Thank you for your opinion. !@@CreativeRestorations
Am I wrong to think moving blankets under each of the frame sides to ensure they are scratched by a stray pebble, sand, or dirt between the wood floor and the cabinet is a good ounce of prevention?
Will Bondo stick to slates that have previously had beeswax used to seal them? BTW, this was a great video!
Yes it will. Probably won't adhere as well as if the beeswax weren't there. But, it'll do just fine.
Could you comment on felts, and 'brands' (Presidents?), and also I see no interior 'finish' or end-grain finish on that Brunswick, doesn't that tend to 'allow' it to pick-up moister on one side, and not the other... and 'warp' a bit over the years (ether dry out, or absorb)... any thoughts?
I'm in the process of moving a 1976 Brunswick Limited IX I just purchased and I have picked up a ton of info from your vids. Thank you so much!
I definitely want to see a video about pool table cloths as you mentioned in the video. Im debating on Simonis 860 and Simonis 860HR. I'd be open to any other advice though.
Another thing I wondered is are you an actual pool player and what caliber?
It's my pleasure!
I plan on doing a video specifically about cloth. A LOT of people either don't really know much about cloth or they've got misinformation. I really want to clear the air about the whole subject.
As for me playing pool... I used to play..... a LOT!!! Not so much any more. I was a 7 in APA. Just got tired of playing. It was my hobby. Now, leatherwork and TH-cam are my hobbies. LOL.
😂 Excellent step by step detail
How you do pack and transport your slate so that it does not get broken?
The table I have doesn't have slate screws. It uses longer rail bolts to hold the slate to the frame. Do you have any secrets to get a nice fit before putting down the cloth or do I just need to be very careful to not disturb it?
Sounds like a problem
We bought a used table and the side rail bolt holes were big to allow for adjustments so we have to square ours up, its not drop in and tighten.
How accurate is your level? I see them listed as .005 and .0005 accuracy. Is the .005 enough to level a pool table?
My level is the Starrett 98-12. Each graduation on the level is .005 over 1 foot. However, if your bubble reads exactly the same distance from both of the middle graduations, you're less than .005 off (more like less than .001 off). The distance between graduations is about 3/16". So, if 3/16" bubble movement equals .005" high or low, you can get the table EXTREMELY level just using a 98-12.
There are a lot of instances where you run across diminishing returns. Using a level that's .0005 as opposed to .005 is one of those instances. You won't see ANY ball drift due to unlevel slate if you properly use the 98-12 (.005).
Can you tell me what Machinest Levelr you're using. Exact size as well? I'm seeing 4" to 12" Machinest Levelers everywhere. The big box stores don't have them. I went looking today.
This is the exact level I use:
amzn.to/34z0qVP
If you buy it through the Amazon link, not only will you save a bit of money, but, it will kick a couple of bucks my way too!
you didn't flatten out the Bondo with any sanding? how do you not leave any kind of imperfection on the surface?
Can you send me the link of what bondo that you used
I’m videoing my disassembly and using separate badges for different parts, labeling those too. My memory isn’t what it used to be.
What are you stapling into?
What do you use to remove old thick wax off of the slate when moving a table (sandpaper?), and do you have to fill the slate screw holes with bondo? The table I just bought had the slate screw holes files with wax.
Sandpaper will work just fine. I typically don't bother filling the screw holes. It just depends on if the holes lay under the rails or if they intrude into the play field.
@CreativeRestorations appreciate the quick response and your videos are great. Thank you very much.
You're quite welcome.
with all your expertice, you can make billard or pool tables of any size with just hand electric tools. no need to buy factory machineries.just order slates. sell it for a reasonable price. you and david can do it
I don't have the facilities or deep enough pockets to start manufacturing pool tables.
Thanks for the vote of confidence though!
How much does the slate pieces weigh.
Do speed rails make the pockets play tighter because the ball comes off faster let me know
I'm not sure I follow the question. Speed rails don't really have any effect on the pockets.
@@CreativeRestorations regular Brunswick rails that come with a table have a flat edge or the ball hits and speed rails from Brunswick are wider and they make the pocket sit deeper I think
Do you ever fill the screw holes? And if yes, what do you use?
I only fill the screw holes if they would interfere with the roll of the ball. If they're far enough under the rails, no. If they protrude into the playfield, yes. I use automotive Bondo.
Good example would be Olhausen. They drill holes into the center of the slate. Those must be filled.
Where can I get a job installing tables and other entertainment equipment
Thank you
Hey love the videos. Do you ever do any Shuffleboard tables?
I don't. They're an entirely different animal!
@@CreativeRestorations well keep up the great work. It’s funny that you made the work Apron for the elegant oxford. I subscribed to him about a year ago. What are the odds lol
I think it's a testament to your appreciation for good work!
As for shuffleboards.... I know a bit about them. But, they're not all that popular here in the Gulf South. I've installed and moved one or two. But, not enough to consider myself proficient at them.
Do you know any true professionals in Chicago, same as you to move/reinstall pool table?
27:30 Top draft pick.
What's the largest table you've worked on. I know some snooker tables are quite large.
It was a 6x12 snooker table. 2" thick slate, 5 piece slate too!
@@CreativeRestorations I played on one of those once at a hall in Washington DC and wondered how much it must have weighed. I grew up in Western Kansas and we only had snooker halls. I don't know why. I didn't see an eight-ball table until I went to college. Learning on a snooker table had real advantages. At that DC pool hall there was a group of people and Britsh guy was explaining how snooker was played and I offered to play him. I won on the seven ball. One of the highlights of my life.
I did a lot of the work myself
1:45:00 A selection process that I am involved has ALWAYS been and will ALWAYS be selecting the most qualified persons for the job. Any other method as unlawful discrimation, is it not?. Employing disabled persons is an exception of course.