How to Recover a Pool Table (START TO FINISH!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2020
- If you're recovering your pool table, there's a good chance you'll need to replace the rubber. Find out how to do it by watching my "How to Replace the Rubber on Your Pool Table" video!
• How to Replace Your Po...
This is a complete tutorial on how to reupholster your pool table.
As mentioned in the video, it's rare that a novice will achieve the same results that a trained professional will get. However, this video will get you far closer to attaining those results than what you would get on your own.
Recovering a pool table takes skill. It takes patience. So, if you don't possess those qualities, I would strongly advise you call a professional! If you have even the slightest doubts as to whether or not you can tackle this job, call a pro!
If you feel this video was helpful and wish to make a contribution to the channel, you are welcome to send a PayPal donation to:
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Below is a full list of Amazon links to all of the tools and supplies I use to install pool tables FAST and easy!
Senco 3/8" upholstery stapler: amzn.to/3j5AGIk
Senco 3/8" staples: amzn.to/3mYYNJW
Senco oil-less compressor: amzn.to/3n0wDOq
Ultra-flexible air hose: amzn.to/3vfDdV6
1/4" air hose fittings: amzn.to/3AFsLaJ
Makita 18v cordless impact kit: amzn.to/3FOXWEe
Makita magnetic bit holder: amzn.to/2YSgvpS
Makita GOLD #2 Philips bit inserts: amzn.to/3FJfbGS
Makita GOLD #3 bit inserts: amzn.to/3j6KVMy
(The above 3 items can be purchased as a set: amzn.to/3mZ6z6l )
Makita magnetic nutsetters: amzn.to/3DNECoO
Makita 1/4" hex to 1/4" square drive adapter: amzn.to/3j2gxmf
Makita 1/4" hex to 3/8" square drive adapter: amzn.to/3AKRjz0
Craftsman complete wrench and socket set: amzn.to/2XgCJlb
3M 90 HI-STRENGTH spray adhesive: amzn.to/2YQG0Zm
Barge All Purpose Cement (quart): amzn.to/3mW4Bns
Barge All Purpose Cement (Gallon): amzn.to/3aDjuFw
Barge Infinity Cement (California Compliant - quart): amzn.to/3aGVCRu
Bondo brand body filler: amzn.to/3aGWbur
Klein scratch awls: amzn.to/3vfMpZC
80 grit sandpaper: amzn.to/3p8s73g
4" putty knife: amzn.to/3lM7WG4
Upholstery tack puller: amzn.to/2XgDE57
Craftsman screwdriver set: amzn.to/3BXSE6M
Eastwing tack hammer: amzn.to/3AOJPLg
Wooden wedges (shims): amzn.to/3lRA37b
Empire 4' level: amzn.to/3lK1cbR
Empire 2' level: amzn.to/2Xkfvuu
Starrett 12" machinist's level: amzn.to/3DLEare
Starrett 8" machinist's level: amzn.to/3DJjYX1
Craftsman plier set: amzn.to/2YQACVJ
6" Irwin wire cutters: amzn.to/3DKj3pn
Desert ironwood pounding block: amzn.to/3j3Dl56
Gorilla super glue: amzn.to/3aEavnq
The above list of tools covers roughly 95% of all of the tools I use. Some I use multiples (such as scratch awls, tack hammers, and wrenches/sockets). This list does not include shop-tools. These are just the tools a pool table mechanic would need "in the field" to get a table disassembled, reassembled, and leveled.
Some of the links and other products that appear on this video are from companies which Creative Restorations will earn an affiliate commission or referral bonus. Each purchase made from these links will help to support this channel with no additional cost to you.
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Just finished a major overhaul on my 1905 Brunswick Pro 8 that I have had for 50 years since I was 12 years old. This was absolutely a bigger and more difficult project than I anticipated. I extended the pocket shelves. I lengthened the rails to tighten the pockets and put on new Brusnwick super speed cushions. I repaired 119 year old 3 piece slate with bondo and releveled and beeswaxed the seems. When it came to installing the new 860 simonis HR your videos were a life saver. Way better and more helpful than even the cds I got from simonis with the felt. My table plays better than it has in 50 years and I dont think I would be near as Happy without the help from your videos. Thank you .
I asked for a price from a pro... They quoted me more than the table was worth so I'm going to give this a shot for the $180 worth of materials.
GREAT VIDEO!!!! Best one I’ve seen.
Best how to video I've come across. Great detailed instructions, my table looks great. Thanks!
Right On! 👍 An awesome video! Such great, clear instruction. Thanks for putting this info out there. You surely know what your doing. 🙌
Thanks, Doug,
Very helpful video! I successfully recovered and did some structural repairs on my 50 year old Gandy. Thanks, again!
Thank you for your videos! I'm retired and can no longer afford the $1,000 quoted me for new cushions and a complete refelt. In no small measure you made it possible for my wife and I to do the job ourselves for $200. Overall, we graded ourselves B+. Sure, we made a few mistakes but nothing that effects play or is readily visible. We took it slow. In total, we probably put in 80 hours labor. When we were finished, my wife said, "We just saved $800." To which I retorted, "And, if I could have afforded it, I'd paid them. It's a laborious time consuming stressful job." Unlike a lot of DIY projects, this one includes the potential for expensive mistakes and unsatisfactory results. But boy it's sure nice to now stand back and admire my pool table. And, playing on it is a real treat. Thanks again!
Glad I was able to get you through it!
Great video! Great explanation of your techniques. Don’t think I’ll be trying it but fun to watch thank you!
i am learning so much by watching your videos you are very detail oriented on this and it helps us who are trying to get it right knowledge is power thank you
Excellent video. Ordered my felt today and tackling the recovering when it gets here.
Mr. Jiles, I’d like to thank you for your kindness on sharing your trade and helping others. Spent last night recovering a table I picked for a friend last week. From choosring a great table to the details of recovering it, I owe you the priceless help you’ve lent us here in your channel. For my first job, it took a whole night, from 7 p.m. to this morning 6 in the morning to be done with it but it was well worth it. My friend was super happy and we had to play a couple matches, despite our exhaustion, at the end! From disassembling it, moving it including the slabs (5/8”+backing Brazilian slabs yay!), putting back together, leveling the frame, leveling the slabs, recovering it, and enjoying it for a few minutes, you were there with us all the way! We will be always thankful for your selflessness insight and superb attention to detail!
You’re the best! Simple and effective method which really works and delivered best results! Best channel on this subject!
Thank you and God may bless you always!
From Tampa FL
Glad I was able to give assistance!!!
@@CreativeRestorations if you need anything from tampa, let me know!
Thank you very much! Wish I could share pictures of the results with you but TH-cam doesn’t have this feature I think.
Have a great weekend.
I appreciate your knowledge I’m a pretty good novice I have manage to replace the cushions on a 1977 Brunswick Dakota and recovered the rails paying real good to your videos and I just finished laying the table all with Simonis 860 it has been real fun again thank you for the information and God Bless you.
Very helpful video. Thanks
Great video!it was very thorough.I am learning alot
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you you are a pro just finish mine in under 4hrs, you are a good theacher.
I just like to thank you for the information I appreciate excellence workmanship when I can watch a export do a job I can usually catch on how to do it and thanks again so far the cushion replacement has turned out very well thank you.
Thanks Doug,
I installed new rubber with the help you gave me. I did use Maple to build up the rails. .125" in the corners and .250" in the side pockets. I watched this video several times as I was putting new cloth on. I am happy with the way the pockets play now. I wish the side pockets were a little narrower. I narrowed them by 7/8ths and they are still wider than two balls.
I really appreciate your videos and I do agree that hiring a competent, experienced, pool table repair person would have been my best option. Unfortunately I am not in an are where I can hire a person who fits that description.
If you are ever in the Northwest and come through Spokane get in touch.
Hanks billiards if you’re in the Pacific Northwest
Thanks for sharing!
As in all things the professional makes it look easier than it actually is.
Thanks for sharing.
I probably do make it look easier than it is. But, the point behind the videos is to show people that if they have the desire, tools, drive, and a little skill, they really can do it themselves.
Thanks for watching!
I have really enjoyed you informative videos. I'm 57 years old and have been wanting a table of my own for 50 years. I bought a Brunswick Heritage that was made between 1972 and 1976. Everything was like you information except my slates have 3 metal pins at the joints, I can't find any information about them. The joints were probably plastered when new, then white wax , red candle wax and caulk, what a mess. I'm going to clean everything back to as new clean. Going to research my area for quality installers. I'm moving it apart then going back together. The 860 cloth sounds right for me. I don't mind paying if you get what you've paying for.
i have really loved your video i can not thank you a lot god bless
Great video!
Check out the next video in this series: "How to Replace the Rubber on Your Pool Table". There's a good chance you'll need to replace it before you tackle putting on new cloth!
th-cam.com/video/JhzQ6DZWfdE/w-d-xo.html
Real good video
Doug.
Absolutely fabulous video on restoring pool tables. I am a handyman out here in Utah and get asked to do all sorts of things. Your video was great . Your delivery relaxed and ecouraging.
Thanks for being there. Now suggest to me how much I should charge. Bob
Can you refelt bumper pool tables? I am in Utah also
Love the tip at 12:34.
Great video, great explanation of how and why.! I do realize things look easier than they actually are, but I feel feel very confident in my abilities... It may be a few months, but I'll post a video of the table I build. Once again Thank you and Marry Christmas to you and yours.!
Although I'm going to build a simple design table, here are some things I have done. th-cam.com/video/0dWIfOrAcbg/w-d-xo.html
Very nice work!!! Thanks for sharing!
@@CreativeRestorations Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Great video. I am interested to know how you kept the rails at 90 deg in the corners and kept them in a straight line across the side pockets.
Makes it look so easy, I'm having a go myself soon!. It cost nearly 300 eu to have it done professionally!, even with me supplying the cloth.
Yeah it's very expensive. If you're not a professional pool player, you can try it yourself because the standars that you expect are a little bit lower. Trying it myself next week!
hello I watched few of your videos, don't worry about those who complains. as mention in one of ur videos, it looks like easier than it is and after watching you explaining and doing it, I feel truly confident that I would be able to replace and level my pool table. not that I'm better but simply with good explanations has you did, you can't miss. so great job and well done. good information that were passed throughout ur videos. That being said, have you heard good comment about Dufferin pool table or Legacy? I'm from Canada, maybe those companies are from here or maybe you haven't heard anything from them. thx
Mario
We don't see Dufferin pool tables here in the southern U.S.. Once in a while we'll see a Legacy. However, if Dufferin tables are as good as their cues, they'd be good. Legacy makes a decent table.
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Very helpful. Can't use staples. My table is slate. Same procedure
Can you tell me what size of staples you used or use for stapling the cloth down? Do you use the same size for attaching the leather pockets underneath?
Great video presentation and lots of Great information
I wouldn't personally use anything with longer than a 3/8" leg. Any longer and they tend to break off when you go to remove them on the next recovering. As for the width, anything up to the width of an Arrow T-50 is fine. I use a Senco pneumatic upholstery stapler. There's a link to both the stapler and staples in the description above.
Love these videos as I've said before. I noticed at the end you basically asked for some constructive criticism. The one single complaint I have is I think you should lower the background music. It's not as bad as I've seen in some other people's videos on youtube but it is a little distracting. Everything else is top notch. I feel like your production quality is really coming along nicely.
On another note I'm not sure if you remember me from other comments but I'm still up in the air about doing my table after I get it up to the leveling and felting phase. I watch these videos and I'm like I'm sure I could do it but then I'm thinking well....this guy just quoted me 400$ for that and that's definitely reasonable. The thing is he's from facebook marketplace and I have no examples of his work plus I have no idea how to find other candidates locally. Plus I'm a low key perfectionist and just like I don't trust someone else to change my vehicle's oil because they may miss a step that I would obsessively and meticulously check, check, and recheck. Can you just drop by Kentucky real quick lol
I don't have my 10,000 hrs in on pool tables yet, lol. I only did one, about 29 years ago. There was no internet back then, I only had a simple printed instruction sheet, so I winged it and figured out the details on my own. Covering the cushions was exactly like show here. You stretch the cloth a fair amount by feel but not to the maximum or you will spoil the appearance and action of the cushion. I had to figure out the fold on the side pockets and how to gather and stretch out the wrinkles at the corner pockets on my own. My table bed does not have wood under the edges of the slate so I had to use adhesive to anchor the cloth. The relief cuts at the pockets were similar, but no staples, all glue. One thing this video left out is you don't just bolt the rails back on and done, because the rails have to be adjusted for parallel and square. There is a lot of slop in the mounting holes on the bed for purpose of adjustment. It took a fair amount of nudging them around while carefully measuring and squaring before I was satisfied that everything was right and could tighten them down. The job turned out good and the table played just fine. I have seasonal humidity swings from 30 to 65% and there were never any wrinkles or loose spots in the bed cloth. The rubber in the cushions has gone hard from aging now, so the table will need to come apart and be redone. One thing I would advise, if you don't have some handyman sense about you, and you don't have the DIY spirit, then don't tackle this job yourself, hire a professional, because it's not as simple as you might think.
My parents pool table here is from the Early 1980s, and they use glue or something to hold the clothes in place I believe anyways. One of the railings clothes is frayed and eroded and is coming apart. I don't have the money to do repairs at the moment. 🙄
Thank for the help you willing to give us, it all ways help a bunch. I have a question do you tight the middle pocket only on one section of the rail
Usually, I'll install only one of the side pocket bolts. If one of the bolts is always missing, no one can make the mistake of trying to flip the rails in one piece (and, thus, taking a risk of breaking them). However, if you want to install the second bolt, you can. Just do it after the rails are in their rightful position.
thank you for sharing these videos I have a question as to what size staple you are using in the pneumatic stapler
I use either 3/8" or 1/2" leg, 3/8" crown upholstery staples. Whichever my supplier has on hand.
Really nice video and very thankful you're sharing many of your tricks and tips! I'm almost 50 and have upholstery, mason and carpentry experience - so this looks challenging but definitely within my skillset. I have a few questions and a few comments:
Questions (a) I have a 30 yr old table, and there are some minor scratches in the slate - I live in Michigan and therefore plan on using beeswax to fill the seams and imperfections - do you recommend a light sanding of the entire slate surface after smoothing the wax? I've seen/heard pros and cons for sanding the entire surface. (b) You mentioned changes in the cloth due to humidity and temperature - is there an ideal temp/humidity range that you prefer to recover? I'm in no rush on my project and therefore can wait for an optimal day.
My constructive comments for your videography: (1) unless there is background noise (fans, etc.) I recommend ditching the background music during the actual video tutorial - save it for the intro and end; (2) consider getting a Go-Pro to take closeup shots - I would love to see how close you place the staples on the rails, a close-up of your side pocket work on the bed, and even how David cut the holes for the bolts; and (3) consider adding text to list some simple facts (table, size, cloth color, cloth type, date, temp, etc) at the beginning and/or end - this info can help you as much as the viewers!
Thank you!!
If you only have minor scratches in the slate, it isn't really necessary to sand it. I don't typically sand the slate unless it's absolutely necessary (i.e., the last tech didn't level the slate properly and used too much Bondo or plaster of Paris). If they're major scratches, then, I would just back-fill them with beeswax or Bondo.
As for a perfect humidity and/or temperature, there really isn't any. However, you do want to keep the humidity and temperatures stable. Wide swings in either not only make your table play vastly different, but, specifically, the wide swings in humidity will cause the cloth to stretch or tighten. So, you want to install your cloth at the temperature and humidity levels that the table is going to be played at. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for the tips on video production. I will certainly take them into consideration. And, there will be more videos showing more close-ups and additional explanations and instructions.
Great Videos, On constructive advice. 1 consider making a video over several pool tables not just one (say you use this one for the base video), use other pool tables for close ups to augment and enhance what you already have. Close ups of pockets, cutting bolt holes. So you can make the base review it figure out what you need to make more complete and cut stuff in. 2 Give more description of the tools being used, What size staples, what air pressure, what kind of staple gun (brand). What kind of cloth and why. (these can all be cut scenes) 3 Try to get sponsor/affiliate links up for yourself ever thing you use gets bought and sold try to put up a link where you get a small amount of cash for doing it.
love you videos very informative and thanks. one question is there a reason you don't line the corner pockets like you do the side pockets? i'm about to attempt doing my 7 foot imperial with the same material . i have the rails done with new rubber and recovered thanks to your help the only thing i wish for a first timer i had ordered material for an 8 foot table instead of a 7 it has a little extra in the length but not much in the width for grabbing onto for stretching . another thing after getting this far into this job i have a great appreciation for what a table mechanic charges for doing it.
Yes. There is a reason why I don't line the corner pockets. I didn't have to cut release cuts.
The purpose of lining the pockets is to hide the slate and wood slate liner. It's purely done for looks. So, when I have corner pockets that don't require release cuts, I don't need to add the additional strip of cloth. Now, side pockets ALWAYS need release cuts. So, to make the installation look more "clean", I add the strips.
Almost all manufacturers have switched to larger radius corner pockets. The larger the radius, the less likely it is that it will need release cuts to get the cloth to "bend" into the pocket.
When we took our Brunswick pool table apart, there was no plyboard underneath the slate to staple replacement felt too. There are just bolts that go directly through the felt and slate! Have you seen this before? It is definitely and older model Brunwick.
Is it permissable to put new felt on top of an existing cloth
Im still living with aging parents in there 80s, the pool table here was assembled, after this house was built in 1980. It looks like they glued everything cloth on this table. The surface is some type of marble surface. There's no wood to use a staple gun. Im not even sure about the railings, if they were glued on as well. The table cloth is green, but now has a few wear spots on it and a few holes, one of the railings on top has come loose and is frayed. I don't have the income at the moment to look into replacing the cloth. I see on Amazon, they sell the replacement pool table cloth. 😐
I really liked how you managed to do the end pockets without relief cuts. Would it not be possible to do the side pockets the same way or is it a trade off?
It isn't really possible to do the side pockets without release cuts. In the corners, you're dealing with (roughly) 1/4 of a circle. On the side pockets, you're dealing with 1/2 of a circle. And, the diameter of the two circles is different. If you were to complete the circle on a corner pocket, it would be substantially larger than what the side pocket would be.
I wish there were a way to do it for side pockets. It would really complete that "clean" look.
is there no way to completely cover the side pockets without raw fabric edges?
what size staples are you using?
Nice video, you make it look easy. I just bought a K2steel 9’ table, do you have any experience with this table?
No. Haven't even heard of them. Not surprised though. There are lots of smaller companies that either just sell online or regionally.
@@CreativeRestorations Sam billiards, made in Spain I believe. sambilliards.com/en/pool-billiards/pro-pool/ksteel2/
Hey Doug great video as always.quick question,what type of bondo do you use to seal the seams?is it the all purpose bondo???I live in Houston and have similar weather as y’all in Louisiana to an extent and wanted to use bondo instead of bees wax to seal the seams.appreciate your feedback .thank u in advance.
I use standard automotive Bondo. Not the fiberglass reinforced version or the "home repair" version.
Use beeswax is the best melt it in a pot only takes a minute pour it let it dry 10 minutes and scrape any billiard store caries them
@@kreshnikveliaj9741 beeswax is good but doesn’t hold up too good in our Climate changes here in Houston .that’s why I opted for the bondo and man it worked like a charm.
My Gold Crown III manual shows "Cloth Reinforcement Pieces" added by gluing to the slate exposed at the pockets. Is this not necessary?
Depends on the cloth and the installation method you use. I do add cloth reinforcement pieces in the sides. But, if you notice, I don't cut release cuts for my corners. My method allows for a cleaner install. Those "reinforcement" pieces don't actually reinforce anything. They're just there to cover up the slate and slate liner that's seen when you cut release cuts.
I had my pool table rails done and looks like he used very little glue . shortly afterwards they started falling down . I gave them back to him and some are starting to fall again . Should I ask for my money back. I would send you pic if I new how
Would you recommend using a Sunbrella cloth on a high humidity area like South Florida on recovering a pool table?
I would only use Sunbrella on an outdoor table.
can you sand on a slate to get it smoother, a old brunswick, feels rough
Can you be more specific about what you mean by "rough"?
Great video! Generally what does a service like this cost?
Recovering a table can run anywhere between $450 and $750. Depends on the cloth a customer wants.
I bought a olhausen oak eclipse with accufast cushions 10 year old table from Facebook market place took it apart noticed only the center slate screws were covered in bewax this was installed by professionals brought it home started putting it together did the same thing only coverd the center slate screw holes after being done and started playing i noticed the end screw holes, i had to remove all those staples again from the felt and fill the screw wholes with beeswax which worked great .covering the end holes along with the center ones is the most important thing dont think rails will cover them . I did a better job than those professionals” especially being my first time
Great video. What brand stapler are you using?
I use a Senco upholstery stapler. Amazon link to both the stapler and staples in the description above.
Video is nice. Picked up plenty tips. This will be my 2nd recover and the first one came out really good. New rubbers too. It’s a1965 Sears 8’ table. My question is; what kind and size staples? Also I’m about a mile from the ocean and things still rust this far away, obviously not as much as closer. So Stainless steel staple if they make them? Thank you very much. Nice sm7b! 😃👍🏽🤙🏽
You can get stainless steel staples. You'll have to get the specifications off of your staple gun or the box of staples themselves. If you have the right gun, the staples should be available.
@@CreativeRestorations Aloha Doug thank you for the response. How long should the staples be? Did you ever make a video for installing Simonis? I saw how to hold off to the side of the staple. I’ll have to go back and find the part when you showed it. I don’t remember the directions to pull towards. I’m sure there would be some more tips specific to this cloth? From everything else I picked up off of your video, I’m excited to see how much better the fine details come out this time, thanks to you!!!!
I use 3/8" leg staples. As for installing Simonis cloth, it's the exact same procedure as this video. Just watch the video again for the staple pattern. It's basically a "Z".
Question.
Is there a way to remove motor oil in my pool table cloth or do i need to buy a new cloth?
No good way to clean it that I'm aware of. You're going to have to replace the cloth.
Your videos are exceptionally helpful. Thanks for the complete series. Probably a newb question, but I'll ask anyway. So if you have an MDF table - not slate - do you glue or staple? MDF is sacrilege to purists, I know, but just trying to get it playable again for the kids.
Thank you very much.
As for the MDF, it depends. If you have enough of an edge to staple into, then you'd staple. If it's thin MDF (and I've seen it as thin as 1/4"), then you'd use glue.
Good luck with the project! Let me know how it turns out!
@@CreativeRestorations Thanks! It's 3/4" so I'll go with staples and we'll see how it goes.
I think you did a great job on on showing how to do a recover on the pool table. Just did not know why you could not bring in the camera in closer on seeing how the rails are done and the pockets were done. Especially on the side pockets. Was wondering why more detail was not talked about how much pulling and stretching you recommend on stretching your cloth.
Other then that everything else was very well done. Thank you.
I have a video showing in detail how to do the rails.
th-cam.com/video/5SPel_CUHwE/w-d-xo.html
What is the best way to fill the holes in the slate and the joint?
Watch my "How To Assemble a Pool Table" video. It's all there.
How much does this generally cost to have done by professional
It looks like your slates are flush with the wood that your stapling it to. My slates hang past the wood. I also noticed the cover was glued all the way around and the pockets were the only thing stapled. Can you tell me if this is correct?
If there's full slate liners installed, it should be stapled or tacked all the way around. I have seen lazy cloth installs , though, where they use glue on lined slate. Again, that's lazy work.
@@CreativeRestorations I had to use glue as I don't have nothing to staple to. The wood liners come flush to inside of pockets and I'm assuming that's why they stapled them there. The slate hangs off 2 1/4 inches off the wood all the way around. It's wierd I don't have a liner that's flush with slates all the way around. I rather staple but I'm force to glue.
I'm moving a pool table, and the felt was glued on. I am buying new felt, as the original was quote old, but there doesn't appear to be any wood to staple into. Do you have a video on gluing the felt?
I'm in a similar situation. My parents pool table is from the 1980s, I believe it was all glued on. The green cloth has faded and a few holes on it and one of the railings cloth has come undone and frayed.
Where did you get the rail cover from. You did not explain where to cut that from. How much extra cloth
Rail material comes pre-cut from Championship.
I've recently done a table that needed to be glued and used predator cloth and within a month it has come up with one wrinkle close to the pocket but is still glued down good what could be causing this. It is in a garage that is not climate controlled
Do you have a video on recovering bumper pool tables?
Unfortunately, no. I've done a hand full over the years. But, the last one I did was before I started my TH-cam channel.
What's up with the exposed staples in the pockets? Aren't those visible when looking in the pockets?
Not really. You've got to staple somewhere in the pockets. I've done tables for 30+ years and have never had a complaint.
When shopping for a used commercial table how can I tell it's not just a home table.
I would advise you to look closely at the frame of the table. Commercial tables (made for pool halls - not bar boxes) are going to have VERY stout frames. Typically, they're going to have Formica veneered rails. And, they're going to have very stout legs. They're just built to handle decades of daily use. Whereas, home tables are more fancy but lack the robustness.
I plan on doing a video on either a Brunswick Gold Crown, Anniversary, or Centennial next time I have to work on one. I know that doesn't help you now. But, you can look up how any of those three are constructed and get an idea as to what you're looking for. A Brunswick Sport King and a Brunswick Medalist would also be good reference material as well.
I'm about to recover my old table, an replace the ubber on the rails. I think the table is 40 or 50 years old. I'm going to watch your videos a couple more times. The instruction seems to be right on. I'll let you know how it turns out.
By the way, my friend and I bought an antique table which we are restoring. Would you be interested in a house call to restore the cloth and rail cloth?
Good luck with the table! Depending on where you're located, I could do the house call.
Is there a reason you didn't glue this fabric down? Great video, I have enjoyed learning from this and other videos of yours.
Gluing down cloth is only appropriate in instances where a slate liner isn't present.
@@CreativeRestorations duh, that makes total sense. Thanks, keep up the great videos. I can't wait to see that progression on that Antique table series.
How to make pockets equal to diamond pockets tightness
What size and type of staples do you use?
I use 3/8" crown staples with between 3/8" and 1/2" length. 23 gauge. They're made by Senco.
I wish you would have someone behind you closer up for a project
What size of staples you use?
3/8"
Will this technique work on a Diamond? Stretching the cloth over the pockets instead of cutting slits and then stapling.
I know the pockets are more narrow on Diamonds or other Brunswicks.
Most Diamond tables are used in commercial settings. And, 99% of all of my customers are residential. So, I don't work on many Diamond tables. As for the Diamond "home" type tables, yes. This technique works just fine on them. But, I can't speak for their commercial tables.
In the video you did showing rail rubber replacement you stated that Weldwood contact cement should NEVER be used to glue on rail rubbers. There are multiple other videos on TH-cam showing how to replace rail rubber and every single one of them uses Weldwood contact cement. Why have you taken this position? I've used Weldwood contact cement on many other woodworking projects (I make period reproduction Queen Anne furniture as a hobby) and it works perfectly. Explain?
I’m sure Weldwood contact cement is just fine for your particular application. But, it’s different tools for different applications. Barge Cement is superior for adhering rubber to wood. The solvents used and proportions of solvents is different between the two. They’re just different. Not to mention, EVERY time I’ve seen someone use Weldwood to attach cushion rubber, it fails within a year or two. Contrast that with Barge Cement which will hold indefinitely and the choice becomes abundantly clear.
I wouldn’t use a cheese grater to wash my car. Doesn’t mean that a cheese grater is garbage. It just has a different purpose. I don’t think Weldwood contact cement is garbage. But I do think it is best used in other applications.
What size table is that?
8'
i liked your video, just wished you would of had a camera man to follow you around.
Cloth came out pretty good. Constructive criticism here. You shouldn't but staples on the face side of pocket which a customer can see. But still came out good and tight. Main criticism though, you are making a instructional video with what looks like tournament blue which is bright, and YOU PUT YOUR TOOLS ON THE PLAYING SURFACE!!! And the pockets/rails!! tisk tisk lol... You get the jist of everything as far as i can see though, everyone has there way of doing things. Good job other than those two problems. (So many tools on that cloth brother.... Hardware as well, goodness lol) you're very luck for no smudges/smears/grease/or sweat marks. But like i said good job otherwise.
I hope you don't take this to heart. Simonis or brunswicks version is a bit rough to get done the way you did without knowing, and this would definitely instruct someone on getting it done. I've been servicing tables for 6-1/2 years, I'm sure you've been doing it longer. Just do things a little differently, but i reread the comment and it seemed a little offensive, you guys did a good job overall, like i said just a little criticism. Never hurts to hear, wish people would give it to me, but unlike you, i do not have videos. Kudos for teaching.
I appreciate the constructive criticism and if I were using anyone else's tools, I would 100% agree with you. But, my tools are exclusively used for pool tables. Grease and dirt NEVER get on my pool table tools. Even my staple gun does not get oiled (I know, it wears it out faster but I'm fine with that because it insures that no oil can ever come into contact with the cloth).
I have two sets of tools. I have one set that's only for pool tables and another large set that's used for everything else.
As for hardware on the table, when I'm doing a new table install, hardware ALWAYS stays separate. It's really common to have oil on new hardware. But, on old hardware, any oils have dried.
I have never had a table get dirty from my tools or hardware. Some may say that I've just gotten lucky. Luck will only get you so far. I've been doing tables for 30 years and, again, have NEVER gotten cloth dirty. That's not luck. That's being mindful of what I'm doing and rigid about what tools get used when and where.
Why don’t you get a stool on wheels to make it easier on your legs, instead of scooting around.
With respect to the long rails I didn’t see anything about aligning the two pieces. Also that when the rails are in place that the entire into rail area is completely square. I have a pool table with the same long rails that are lit and they are off by more than 1/8 of an inch. Making it nearly impossible to shoot a ball down a rail.
I just answered a similar question about the rails being in square. And, yes. I ALWAYS align the side rails.
Your side rails should be PERFECTLY in line with each other. Otherwise, as you said, you can't run the ball down the side. But, as far as the end rails being perfectly at 90 degrees with the sides, there isn't enough room in the bolt holes to make any appreciable difference.
You should be able to loosen the side rails and use a 4' level or straight edge to align the sides. Then, just tighten the bolts (being careful not to let the rails shift in the process).
Hope this helps.
What size staples do you use?
22 gauge, 3/8" crown, 3/8" leg.