Diamond Billiard Products Professional Table Build
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- Watch and learn as two DIAMOND mechanics build a 9 foot DIAMOND Professional from start to finish in the DIAMOND sales office.
0:00 Frame Assembly
9:45 Leveling The Frame
13:57 Installing The Leveling System
20:48 Installing / Seaming 3-Piece Slate
37:31 Applying Bed Cloth
1:04:28 Assembling The Top
1:09:24 Applying Rail Cloth
1:28:06 Installing Drop Pockets
1:32:21 Installing Corner Blocks
1:32:45 Installing Assembled Top - กีฬา
It blows my mind that you have so little views on this walkthrough... this has been awesome watching and listening to. Simply being able to see how much work in so much detail really gives me a good understanding of what to expect as I'm planning the build. Your knowledge has also been extremely insightful and refreshing. Thanks for sharing!
I'm sure ya'll will still be around about 3 years from now. You're hired after I get that addition built! Man Cave.
I love your tables
I bought a used table about 12 years ago and the guys delivered it to my living room in pieces. I put the whole thing together by myself. But I stapled the cloth to the table because that's how it was done before. To get it all level I used playing cards as shims.
this explanation from Steven about strech is great, thank you. As a European Diamond owner I had difficulties to order one of those 'tight joint fastener' to assembly the cussions
I wish j can have this beautiful table =) great job
great video!
Very fascinating, I never knew it was this involved. The table came out beautifully. These guys are total pros and you can tell they have years of experience. How does Diamond compare to Brunswick?
Diamonds are a newer, arguably better design. Also cheaper (New). Older Brunswicks can be had pretty cheap, and they are still great tables.
Master at work
Thank you for producing OTL vise. I use mine several times each week. It really makes moving slates much safer.
@@stevensmith4346 You’ve obviously been doing this job for a long time and Diamond is lucky to have you. The craftsmanship and heart that you put into your work truly shows. We need more people to take this amount of pride, in the work that they do. I hope they’re paying you what you’re worth! Salute brother!! Keep doing what you love!!
If I can ever afford a personal table, I pray the installer cares as much about the finished product as you do.
At the side pocket you put the tip of your knife to the point of the rubber and make an angled cut back towards you. Staple the first flap then fold the remaining part and staple down, making sure you're free of wrinkles 🤣😂
I currently have a nice 9 ft pool table which is very nice..I had an 8 ft pool table before and I think people enjoyed the 8 footer more than the 9 footer...maybe cause 9 ft is harder to play since is longer and pockets are narrower? Thinking about selling 9 to get an 8ft table. We don't play professionally just for fun in my garage man cave...debating between selling my 9 footer to get an8 footer..what kind a felt and bumpers should I get ether for 8 footer or even if I decide to keep 9 footer? I have enough room to play on 9 footer, well I have a pub round table on corner of garage with 2 barstools and people have to move when shooting from that corner. Also I have just barely enough room along wall to shoot..however I was thinking about putting a shelve along wall for drinks etc, etc..but tje shelve will definitely get in the way when shooting from that side of wall..so that's why I was thinking about 8 footer to just have a little more space
Maybe get a nice Dimond pro with good bumpers and blue felt, or upgrade my current 9 footer with good bumpers and blue felt too:)
Your featherstripping should never be exposed to the point that you can put a stable in it, so make sure the feathstrip is hidden behind the end cap on the rail, DO NOT STAPLE THE FEATHERSTRIPPING.
Artemis cushions are what’s used on 9’ tables but what was used on 9’ red label diamonds
What do you recommend cleaning the Dymalux rails with?
I'm trying to find out how to properly assemble my American heritage britton pool table. Im more concerned where and when to level it
Is every table cloth done in shop done this way before shipping?
So your table came with the legs attached? this one Paragon Did not. Want to know if 2 or 3 bolts to attach leg. Thanks.
I can't find that glue anywhere online. Do you have a link?
I have 14 feet by three inches in width is this enough to play comfortably on a 9 foot pro am width wise? I see discrepancies with diff size requirements charts.
16 feet is comfortable
Can you do that in my place? Croatia...?
Contact our dealer near you www.5mbiliardi.com/
Once you super glue the slates, how do you get them apart if you want to move the table to another location?
I believe you would just lift one end and break the seal or score it first.
Score the Bondo with a knife or screwdriver, then douse it with acetone (if it is cyanoacrylate superglue). Perhaps clamp one slate to the frame and raise the nearest leveling wedge on the other side of the seam, putting them in shear. This is preferable to lifting the end slate, which may damage the slate in compression and tension.
You are never supposed to use any type of glue or Bondo you then risk breaking your slate whenever you disassemble your table, you can use beeswax or wood putty which doesn't create a permanent bond. Never super glue the slate!!!
Never use a level on a pool table either 😂🤣 you use a ball to level it. These people do not have any type of idea what they are talking about! Slate is supposed to be screwed to the frame and never move a pool table without disassembling it, and it is very easy to film someone leveling a pool table I could do it in about 5 minutes....
You know what amazes me? The number of people that make comments on here that think they know better than the factory. Many many installers superglue the slates together.... and on many many different mix of tables. Oh, and a machinist level is just as accurate or more than rolling a ball on it.
how many does its cost this one
Why does this table only have a one year warranty.
Tôi muốn mua thì liên lạc làm sao
I'm your 1000 subscriber do I win a 9 ft pro am?
Not "plumb"... SQUARE it (the beams). Why no square check? (diagonal measure from the inside corners at the very least) And no reliable torque limit setting on the hammer drill being used as a torque application device to fasten those beams with. They should actually be finished precisely with a torque wrench to all the same setting. The hammer drill, despite having a setting sets the torque within a wide window. And still didn't get checked for square. Squareness IS needed to place the crown attachment holes in their exact locations that match the crown and slate. The frame should be perfectly flat (already). Same error if the "bump" you worry about is under one of the cards. Two identical diameter drill bits or rods makes the right tangency to the surface.
Instead of bondo, you should use a two part epoxy that DOES have 'elasticity', not hard as you stated. If you whisk the slate with OTHER than the cloth you are laying down, you will not have to whisk the cloth. As it stands, you ATTACH whatever dirt is on the slate INTO the cloth. Who's bent logic started that stupid move? There are clean cloth segments cut free from other table builds you should have readily on hand and use. Frazzle the edges with flame if you are worried about them shedding threads. And fresh off a full roll of cloth, you should not have to even do that "whisk" behavior with it either. So you must be just leaving it lying around or introducing debris to it from poor handling because it is as clean as it gets right off the roll. Doing a field build away from the roll? Put it in a bag, not just folded up and flopped into the truck. And after all that slate leveling mechanism stuff, you CLAMP the rail crown down onto it (with four bolts per rail segment), pulling the slate bed frame up into it placing huge pressure on every leveling wedge in place. It is beautifully engineered and crafted, but that is a design flaw.
And so too is your "professional" overtly tight pocket openings. They do NOT meet the "regulation" specification. The rail end cap faces even angle downward... poor choice. The material is too hard as well and the angle is out of spec. Also the NOSE OF THE RAIL is supposed to be 62% of the 2.25" ball diameter. Not higher which most diamond tables I have played on are and they pinch off bank shots as a result. I have also seen rails with big nose diameters like you guys play with the rail rubber shape as well. NOT "professional", only CLAIMED as such by you guys. I have seen different rail nose diameters. How can that be, boys? I covered my first table way back in '71. And I took years of hand drafting courses in school and pool table pocket openings and a four hole per rail segment slate were all things I drew up and designed decades ago. When a firmly hit ball bobbles out of the pocket on one of your tables, I CUSS YOU GUYS for your stupid "professional" pocket opening stupidity. It is NOT REGULATION, and if the WPA (now)says it is, THEY adjusted the specs from the original. 63 degrees from the pocket cheek face to the rail nose. You guys and your near parallel pocket faces are OUT OF SPEC. Not "professional". UNprofessionally adjusted and adopted BY DIAMOND. That doesn't make it so.
No thanks, I will stick to gold Crowns as my choice of table.!
With brand name on simonis felt, it should never be seen from the top, so your comment about having the brand name on the foot and head of the table, of it's seem on the top side of the rubber, then you put the cloth on wrong the factory line should be hidden!
And you don't trim the featherstripping you pound it down with a pounding block and make sure it's set down under the rail, cause if you have any type of lip there it'll wear the cloth down over time. This guy is a rookie for sure 😂😂🤣😂
just level it no need for all that if the wood is straight then it won't need leveled in the middle
Honestly this is comical watching someone who thinks they know what they doing, but doing their job wrong 🤣😂🤣😂
If doing rail recovery, PUT IN HALF THE STAPLES THIA GUY USED.... that is called staple overkill and is absolutely horrible for the next person working on stripping the old felt off. This guy is clearly an office worker reading some basic ass instructions 🤣😂
Honestly I would rather watch you build a pool table, you sound like you know way more 😂😂
When doing the corners you will get wrinkles on your first few stretches you just put to staple at the beginning of the wrinkle and that takes it away from ever showing on the rubber.... Cause the wrinkle won't go beyond where you put a staple , again just laughing at how wrong this guy is doing this and explaining it 🤣😂🤣😂😂
I install 2 tables a day everyday. This is definitely not the way it's done. Although this will do, you are making so much more work than necessary. Maybe I'll post a video of the actual process done by the best professionals.
Rod, Steve and his father installed my 9' Diamond table and the felt. If I ever need the felt replaced, I would gladly pay these two pros to do it again. I am a pretty fussy customer and they pleased me. I would like to see your work someday.