I’ve been watching your videos, they get into details that other DIY vids just skip which is very helpful! I don’t understand why you said it idles like it did before, there seems to be a huge difference as you adjust the rack damper inward.
Thanks, yes adjusting it does make a difference but mine was already adjusted all the way in. Adjusting out made it worse but couldn’t make it any better than it already was.
Replace air cleaner mounts... check bracket for cracks. Did you pop pressure test those injectors? They can be shimmed to be within 50 psi variance of each other
I’m working on this now and im having a hell of a time getting the new bolt started in the hole. I got it to grab once but i loosed it somehow when adjusting. Have spent about 45 min over two days with my hand down in there trying to get the bolt started and it just won’t go. For reference, the old one won’t go in either.
It’s in a heck of a hard place to get to, it may not help any but may try giving it throttle and see if that moves the rack a bit to make the bolt easier to get in.
Didn't know you paid $400 for your 300D. Wow. These are the only automatic production cars that can be roll started/pull started. It's actually in the owner's manual. Technically it's a pull start because they say you have to sustain 45mph to get it cranked so either someone is pulling you or you have a substantial and long hill. They might be assuming no battery power. If you could glow the plugs it would start at a much lower speed. People forget, these cars don't have to have a battery to drive them around. Once cranked it's all compression. You're driving a glorified diesel generator. "The More You Know."
Yeah I bought a owners manual and read about that. It seems I bought this one at the right time. There’s no good deals like that on them now. This one has been a great daily driver but the body is really beat up.
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I’ve been watching your videos, they get into details that other DIY vids just skip which is very helpful! I don’t understand why you said it idles like it did before, there seems to be a huge difference as you adjust the rack damper inward.
Thanks, yes adjusting it does make a difference but mine was already adjusted all the way in. Adjusting out made it worse but couldn’t make it any better than it already was.
Where do I find this part now?
Replace air cleaner mounts... check bracket for cracks. Did you pop pressure test those injectors? They can be shimmed to be within 50 psi variance of each other
I had the injectors rebuilt with new nozzles.
I’m working on this now and im having a hell of a time getting the new bolt started in the hole. I got it to grab once but i loosed it somehow when adjusting. Have spent about 45 min over two days with my hand down in there trying to get the bolt started and it just won’t go. For reference, the old one won’t go in either.
It’s in a heck of a hard place to get to, it may not help any but may try giving it throttle and see if that moves the rack a bit to make the bolt easier to get in.
@@mjmcomputers i got it in and my idle is wayyyy better!
@@cardwellave2 how did it finally go in?
@@MrRjnr just kept messing with it until it bit. Took awhile. By hand.
@@cardwellave2 OK thx, I'm going to replace mine next week
Didn't know you paid $400 for your 300D. Wow. These are the only automatic production cars that can be roll started/pull started. It's actually in the owner's manual. Technically it's a pull start because they say you have to sustain 45mph to get it cranked so either someone is pulling you or you have a substantial and long hill. They might be assuming no battery power. If you could glow the plugs it would start at a much lower speed. People forget, these cars don't have to have a battery to drive them around. Once cranked it's all compression. You're driving a glorified diesel generator. "The More You Know."
Yeah I bought a owners manual and read about that. It seems I bought this one at the right time. There’s no good deals like that on them now. This one has been a great daily driver but the body is really beat up.
Adjust your idle screw it's that last idle rod running down towards the pump...
I’ve adjusted it and it’s right where it should be.
check valve adjustment check injector pressure
maybe you need a new engine mount?
Yes they were only a year old but were already bad.
I thought when you rebuilt the injectors a few months back the idle smoothed out?
it may have made a slight difference in idle but still pretty shaky.
It looks like your engine is moving back and forth
I think it's just how it shows up on camera. The engine mounts were bad though.