Couple of points. You don't need any sealer to seal the two halves. I took mine apart three times and each time it was sealed by itself. You do have to screw in those 8 bolts that hold the two halves together slowly and be patient while doing it. I didn't use a torque wrench, I went by feel. The star driver for the bolts I bought from harbor freight in a set that cost about ten bucks. I used #27 driver in the set. Buy the 1/2 inch set that doesn't have the small hole go thru the star socket. These 1/2 inch drivers are stronger than the smaller sized one. The pressure regulator cylinder with a dimple on the end (the newer one) takes a #A007 o-ring, either vitol or regular black o-ring. Harbor freight has them. When I tried using the #A008 vitol sized o-ring, the cylinder got stuck. Vitol o-rings are slightly thinner than the black ones. The function of the o-ring is to seal and maintain the fuel pressure so you can restart the car easily. It doesn't affect the system pressure. To raise or lower the system pressure thru the fuel pressure regulator, the regulator accepts different thickness washers and you can buy normal washers from hardware store and drill them out a bit if you don't have factory washers. If you can't put any more washers on the shaft then put one or two inside the cylinder itself. I had to size my washers down so they could fit inside the cylinder. That will raise the system pressure nicely. I think the big spring that you can't buy anywhere gets softer and causes loss of pressure overtime. So you have to shim it with washers to make it longer. Could also shave down the big copper washer that seals the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel distributor. The fuel port adjustment screws on top of the fuel distributor must be two turns out from fully screwed in otherwise you'll be pressing the aluminium hats inside the fuel distributor towards the metal diaphram and can dent the diaphram. Use a metal ruler to level the hats that sit on the springs inside the fuel distributor. That will result about 2 turns out on the adjustment screws. To fuel balance the ports, remove all the injectors, put cups under each fuel injector line and run the fuel pump. Adjust the screws in/out until you get equal balance of fuel in each cup. Put fuel injectors back in and do not touch those screws anymore. Remember the fuel injectors can not be balanced by those screws. Those injectors are balanced at the factory by using a fuel injector pressure tester. They bin those that spray at same pressure and put them in the car. That's how they balance the fuel injectors. When you buy new bosch fuel injectors from online stores, some stores do not balance the fuel injectors so keep that in mind. I got four brand new ones and only two out of four balanced and I had to reuse the old injectors to get sufficient fuel out of all four of them. My system pressure was more than 75 psi and I removed the four filters inside the fuel distributor head and made sure there was no blockage of any sort inside the fuel distributor. To remove the filter screens, use a wooden screw and screw it in and then pull out the filter one by one. Move the injectors from one fuel line to the other to get better balance but remember you'll be moving pressures around unpredictably because of the springs tension inside the fuel injectors. The only way to get them to fuel balance is to buy four injectors that are exactly the same. It's not just the opening spray pressure but entire pressure thru the spring's travel. If the springs inside the fuel distributor are worn out, you can try to put rubber o-rings on the fuel exit nipple to shim the springs so they press down on the metal diaphram harder. When reassembling the two halves of the fuel distributor, don't forget to line up that small hole in the metal diaphram with the hole in one of the halves. That's the control pressure line that goes to the warm up regulator. I used silicone dialectric grease on the o-rings inside the fuel distributor to hold them in place during assembly. You can reuse those o-rings couple of times before they break. The dialectric grease will be dissolved by gasoline. I've also seen someone use a bigger o-ring over the center assembly to hold the four o-rings together while assembling the unit. Then they took out that big o-ring before pressing the two halves together. Don't forget to align the four slits in the center piece to the four holes in the upper half of the fuel distributor. Don't forget to clean those slits with brake cleaner. Don't spray the brake cleaner all over the fuel distributor otherwise you'll take the paint off and paint flakes will be all over and inside the distributor. If you have a frequency valve ie. K-jetronics with lambda control, make sure that the freq. valve's relay is working. The freq. valve should always be buzzing and not be intermitten. If it's intermitten then the relay's contacts need cleaning. Take the relay out, open it up and use a fine sandpaper between the contacts. Most likely a rain water got inside the relay and corroded the contacts. Once those contacts are cleaned the relay will work. Also make sure you're getting a good ground contact at the cold start injector because that's where the ground point for the frequency valve is located. One last tip, you can hook a wire to a warm up regulator's electrical connector, the bottom one and connect it to battery's plus terminal. That will start the fuel pump going so you don't have to mess with the fuel pump relay and jumping the contacts on it. It's also easy to run the fuel pump that way from engine bay and mess with the fuel balancing the injectors. Don't worry about making sparks at the battery's terminal while spraying fuel into cups. It won't ignite if you do it outside. All this info is for a 1982 vw jetta with lambda. Hopefully it will help someone as the knowledge how these cars operate is lost after 40 years. P.S. make sure your fuel accumulator is working, the fuel pump has a good ground contact and your fuel line from fuel pump to the accumulator and from the accumulator to main line is not leaking fuel. If your fuel line from fuel pump to the accumulator is leaking, instead of buying the expensive $70 hose, just go to the hydraulics shop and have them make you a new line with crimp connectors for about $5-10. Try not to use regular hose clamps on these 100psi fuel lines as it will cut them overtime. Use fuel injector clamps that have rounded ends but those do slide off the fuel line if over tightened so be careful. I believe someone also makes metal braided fuel lines and can add connectors to it to make new fuel injector lines. Also, check Ebay for those plastic red fuel injector inserts that screw into the cylinder head and buy couple of them as the old ones will break when pulling the fuel injectors out. I got 4 for $15 from ebay from a store in florida. They are hard to find as most stores don't stock them anymore. I You'll need 12mm hex socket to unscrew them and I think autozone or o'reilly has them in a set of 3 for $12. I would buy the $10-20 injector puller tool to make the job easier. I pulled my injectors out by using all sorts of pliers and it wasn't easy. One was stuck so bad that I broke the red insert and would leak air into the cylinder if I didn't replaced it with new one.
Thank you very much for your knowledge, they will help me a lot. Greetings from Russia. I own Audi 100 C3 2.2 turbo, MC2 engine, K Jetronic + turbo fuel injection
@@VADIBOY007 Not sure if I mentioned it before but I fixed the car by removing the one way check valve that was installed backwards right before the fuel distributor. It was supposed to be installed after the fuel filter. Somehow enough fuel was getting thru the check valve to allow the car to run up to 30mph but quit after that. Someone before me screwed up the check valve and because I was getting 40psi of fuel pressure out of it I thought the problem was somewhere else until I eliminated everything between the fuel filter and the fuel distributor. I hooked up the pump directly to the fuel distributor without using the check valve and there it was, full fuel pressure and car then ran perfect.
@@jcd13able Can you give me a source of information regarding the dispenser setting on a 2.2 turbo? As far as I know, the dispenser performance of this version is higher than usual. What should be the filling of nozzles per minute in milligrams? I apologize if the translation of the text is not clear, I use google translate, as my English is poor
@@VADIBOY007 For 1.9L engine non-turbo I think the minimum is like 60ml in 30 seconds. You'll know if you need more because the engine will die at high rpms for lack of fuel. You'll have to search the internet for exact amount you'll need for your engine. Also, there is a range and as long as you are inside this range you'll be ok.
@@RetroVW It's not easy to say 'cause I think I have problems with the new(!) bosch injectors. But yes, it helped me. Now I can adjust the amount of gasoline. Before it was imposible.
Thanks. Sorry, but I’ve not had any dealings with running K Jetronic with Turbo so not sure on that one. Hopefully someone on here may have and would be able to comment.
Hi, thanks for all the time and info, great share, please can i ask your opinion, I have a four cylinder 1.6 ford unit off the rs turbo, I have the flow data specs but wondered what the base settings are on the 4 grub screws to set the flow rates up. I've seen vids showing 3 to 3.5 from seat outwards but these are on the larger engine cars and 6 cylinder ke jet units, also if I go to far out the covers bottom out especially if the seals are crushed on the caps somewhat, the only ones I've found is yours for the k jet and one for the 2.3 audi ke jet and he turns them out 2.5 turns, Great if you can advise through wisdom. 🙂👍
You need to check the spring rates, pressures and fill rates for each cylinder. Also did that kit come with Viton seals? Better hope so. Good attention to detail otherwise.
@@thinkerdoit thanks 👍🏻. Yes it was Viton seals. Check some of my earlier videos where I test the fuel pressure along with fill rates from each injector to balance them: th-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/w-d-xo.html And: th-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/w-d-xo.html
Hi, yea it seems to work fine, although theres so many other parts to this system which can cause issues so its worth exploring those first before opening the metering head. This was a spare metering head that I had in the garage which I wanted to refurbish anyway. Unless you are having running issues I would leave it be, or possibly check the injectors first as they can become blocked and may need replacing first. Maybe pull them out and check the spray pattern and go from there.
Hello my dear. I'm trying to finish fixing my sister's 16v. I wanted to ask you some questions. the water level indicator when the engine is warm on which line stabilizes? the engine oil temperature at how many degrees stabilizes when the engine is warm?
@@thebassplayer1985 I put the old dia plate back in for the purpose of finishing the video, as I was waiting for delivery of a new plate at the time of filming. I have since replaced this for a new one and it is now set up and working 👍🏻
@@RetroVW I am also in need of o rings, but I don't understand why no one will provide the actual dimensions of the o rings. I don't need to buy a $50 kit when I could buy 8 orings for less than $10 if I knew what the actual specs were. Appreciate your video and efforts. Thanks.
Hmmm.. I think you might struggle as these are no longer available I believe. You would probably have to acquire a replacement metering head and swap out the parts to make a good working one.
Hi, The aluminium gear Shift Knob was from a UK company who had a stall at the Gti International event here in the UK. This is going back probably over 10 years ago though so I cant remember the name of the company, but a Google search may find them. As for the leather Gear Gaiter, this was a DIY job that I made myself.
Hi, great video. I have the very similar Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Distributor in my Peugeot 505 STI of 1981 (0 438 0100 053 bosch). But i have a question. Why you count the turns of srew, and later you don't use this counts. You put the screw to 1,5 turns..... Thanks!
Superheterodí Valvula thanks 👍🏻 I counted the screw turns whilst removing them just to get an idea of the current setup. As the unit has been stripped down and seals replaced it would need the fuel re balancing across the 4 injector lines anyway, so by setting it to 1.5 turns gets it to its factory base setting before fine tuning later.
Dusan Skulavik you have to measure the fuel delivery at each injector and make fine adjustments. See my other video on injector testing here: th-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I seem to remember I had just 1 shim which was approx 1mm in thickness. If you need to adjust your system pressure using a fuel pressure guage then you can add/remove shims as follows: 0.50mm shim will increase/decrease system pressure by about 0.30bar (4psi) 1.0mm shim will increase/decrease system pressure by about 0.60bar (8psi) There could also be other factors that cause bad system pressure such as a blocked or damaged fuel return line.
Hello. I am surprised the serial number for golf mk2 16v doesn’t match with the serial number from your video. The serial number for Golf gti 2, 16v is 0438101005.
I used this guide to service mine. Before I started, there was fuel pressure and the injectors were working; however, despite checking the assembly SEVEN times now, there is no fuel pressure from the metering head. I have tried different fuel pumps and lines, all of which worked before I serviced it. There must be a problem in the reassembly procedure here, but I have no other reference. :-(
Vous démonter un distributeur kjetronic sans prendre la mesure du cylindre et de son écrou vous faites des vidéos trompeuse pour les autres et cela est une preuve que connaissez rien du tou t au démontage d’un distributeur ce que vous faite un enfant de 10 peut le faire votre vidéo c’est du trucage complet car cela ne se sépare pas comme sa tout seul vous faite du cinéma et je sais de quoi je parle car je refais des distributeurs
Couple of points. You don't need any sealer to seal the two halves. I took mine apart three times and each time it was sealed by itself. You do have to screw in those 8 bolts that hold the two halves together slowly and be patient while doing it. I didn't use a torque wrench, I went by feel. The star driver for the bolts I bought from harbor freight in a set that cost about ten bucks. I used #27 driver in the set. Buy the 1/2 inch set that doesn't have the small hole go thru the star socket. These 1/2 inch drivers are stronger than the smaller sized one.
The pressure regulator cylinder with a dimple on the end (the newer one) takes a #A007 o-ring, either vitol or regular black o-ring. Harbor freight has them. When I tried using the #A008 vitol sized o-ring, the cylinder got stuck. Vitol o-rings are slightly thinner than the black ones. The function of the o-ring is to seal and maintain the fuel pressure so you can restart the car easily. It doesn't affect the system pressure. To raise or lower the system pressure thru the fuel pressure regulator, the regulator accepts different thickness washers and you can buy normal washers from hardware store and drill them out a bit if you don't have factory washers. If you can't put any more washers on the shaft then put one or two inside the cylinder itself. I had to size my washers down so they could fit inside the cylinder. That will raise the system pressure nicely. I think the big spring that you can't buy anywhere gets softer and causes loss of pressure overtime. So you have to shim it with washers to make it longer. Could also shave down the big copper washer that seals the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel distributor.
The fuel port adjustment screws on top of the fuel distributor must be two turns out from fully screwed in otherwise you'll be pressing the aluminium hats inside the fuel distributor towards the metal diaphram and can dent the diaphram. Use a metal ruler to level the hats that sit on the springs inside the fuel distributor. That will result about 2 turns out on the adjustment screws.
To fuel balance the ports, remove all the injectors, put cups under each fuel injector line and run the fuel pump. Adjust the screws in/out until you get equal balance of fuel in each cup. Put fuel injectors back in and do not touch those screws anymore. Remember the fuel injectors can not be balanced by those screws. Those injectors are balanced at the factory by using a fuel injector pressure tester. They bin those that spray at same pressure and put them in the car. That's how they balance the fuel injectors. When you buy new bosch fuel injectors from online stores, some stores do not balance the fuel injectors so keep that in mind. I got four brand new ones and only two out of four balanced and I had to reuse the old injectors to get sufficient fuel out of all four of them. My system pressure was more than 75 psi and I removed the four filters inside the fuel distributor head and made sure there was no blockage of any sort inside the fuel distributor. To remove the filter screens, use a wooden screw and screw it in and then pull out the filter one by one. Move the injectors from one fuel line to the other to get better balance but remember you'll be moving pressures around unpredictably because of the springs tension inside the fuel injectors. The only way to get them to fuel balance is to buy four injectors that are exactly the same. It's not just the opening spray pressure but entire pressure thru the spring's travel.
If the springs inside the fuel distributor are worn out, you can try to put rubber o-rings on the fuel exit nipple to shim the springs so they press down on the metal diaphram harder. When reassembling the two halves of the fuel distributor, don't forget to line up that small hole in the metal diaphram with the hole in one of the halves. That's the control pressure line that goes to the warm up regulator. I used silicone dialectric grease on the o-rings inside the fuel distributor to hold them in place during assembly. You can reuse those o-rings couple of times before they break. The dialectric grease will be dissolved by gasoline. I've also seen someone use a bigger o-ring over the center assembly to hold the four o-rings together while assembling the unit. Then they took out that big o-ring before pressing the two halves together. Don't forget to align the four slits in the center piece to the four holes in the upper half of the fuel distributor. Don't forget to clean those slits with brake cleaner. Don't spray the brake cleaner all over the fuel distributor otherwise you'll take the paint off and paint flakes will be all over and inside the distributor.
If you have a frequency valve ie. K-jetronics with lambda control, make sure that the freq. valve's relay is working. The freq. valve should always be buzzing and not be intermitten. If it's intermitten then the relay's contacts need cleaning. Take the relay out, open it up and use a fine sandpaper between the contacts. Most likely a rain water got inside the relay and corroded the contacts. Once those contacts are cleaned the relay will work. Also make sure you're getting a good ground contact at the cold start injector because that's where the ground point for the frequency valve is located.
One last tip, you can hook a wire to a warm up regulator's electrical connector, the bottom one and connect it to battery's plus terminal. That will start the fuel pump going so you don't have to mess with the fuel pump relay and jumping the contacts on it. It's also easy to run the fuel pump that way from engine bay and mess with the fuel balancing the injectors. Don't worry about making sparks at the battery's terminal while spraying fuel into cups. It won't ignite if you do it outside. All this info is for a 1982 vw jetta with lambda. Hopefully it will help someone as the knowledge how these cars operate is lost after 40 years.
P.S. make sure your fuel accumulator is working, the fuel pump has a good ground contact and your fuel line from fuel pump to the accumulator and from the accumulator to main line is not leaking fuel. If your fuel line from fuel pump to the accumulator is leaking, instead of buying the expensive $70 hose, just go to the hydraulics shop and have them make you a new line with crimp connectors for about $5-10. Try not to use regular hose clamps on these 100psi fuel lines as it will cut them overtime. Use fuel injector clamps that have rounded ends but those do slide off the fuel line if over tightened so be careful. I believe someone also makes metal braided fuel lines and can add connectors to it to make new fuel injector lines. Also, check Ebay for those plastic red fuel injector inserts that screw into the cylinder head and buy couple of them as the old ones will break when pulling the fuel injectors out. I got 4 for $15 from ebay from a store in florida. They are hard to find as most stores don't stock them anymore. I You'll need 12mm hex socket to unscrew them and I think autozone or o'reilly has them in a set of 3 for $12. I would buy the $10-20 injector puller tool to make the job easier. I pulled my injectors out by using all sorts of pliers and it wasn't easy. One was stuck so bad that I broke the red insert and would leak air into the cylinder if I didn't replaced it with new one.
Awesome write-up.
Thank you very much for your knowledge, they will help me a lot. Greetings from Russia. I own Audi 100 C3 2.2 turbo, MC2 engine, K Jetronic + turbo fuel injection
@@VADIBOY007 Not sure if I mentioned it before but I fixed the car by removing the one way check valve that was installed backwards right before the fuel distributor. It was supposed to be installed after the fuel filter. Somehow enough fuel was getting thru the check valve to allow the car to run up to 30mph but quit after that. Someone before me screwed up the check valve and because I was getting 40psi of fuel pressure out of it I thought the problem was somewhere else until I eliminated everything between the fuel filter and the fuel distributor. I hooked up the pump directly to the fuel distributor without using the check valve and there it was, full fuel pressure and car then ran perfect.
@@jcd13able Can you give me a source of information regarding the dispenser setting on a 2.2 turbo? As far as I know, the dispenser performance of this version is higher than usual. What should be the filling of nozzles per minute in milligrams?
I apologize if the translation of the text is not clear, I use google translate, as my English is poor
@@VADIBOY007 For 1.9L engine non-turbo I think the minimum is like 60ml in 30 seconds. You'll know if you need more because the engine will die at high rpms for lack of fuel. You'll have to search the internet for exact amount you'll need for your engine. Also, there is a range and as long as you are inside this range you'll be ok.
What a genuine joy to watch. I have an Audi Coupe with the same system and this has taught me a lot. Thanks so much.
Thanks! Glad it helped 👍🏻
Thank you for your demonstration it is very detailed very good
Love those Facom ratchets. Thanks for the vid.
Good video. The service kit should come with a new metal gasket which doesn't require sealant.
faces of the halves need to be lapped.
Great video. Something I might need to do to my own tornado red 16v at some point!
nice Job thanks from Spain
I did the same but i replaced the steel gasket and I didn't use loctite. additionally I used abrasive paper of 1000 grit to clean the surfaces
Leovigild Rekkared nice 👍🏻 did it help with the running of your car?
@@RetroVW It's not easy to say 'cause I think I have problems with the new(!) bosch injectors. But yes, it helped me. Now I can adjust the amount of gasoline. Before it was imposible.
another quality video, good job mate
Nice video. How did yours work after the rebuild?
It's nice to see your work. Please tell me if you had to deal with K Jetronic + turbo? Is it possible to restore this injection in the same way?
Thanks. Sorry, but I’ve not had any dealings with running K Jetronic with Turbo so not sure on that one. Hopefully someone on here may have and would be able to comment.
Hi, thanks for all the time and info, great share, please can i ask your opinion, I have a four cylinder 1.6 ford unit off the rs turbo, I have the flow data specs but wondered what the base settings are on the 4 grub screws to set the flow rates up. I've seen vids showing 3 to 3.5 from seat outwards but these are on the larger engine cars and 6 cylinder ke jet units, also if I go to far out the covers bottom out especially if the seals are crushed on the caps somewhat, the only ones I've found is yours for the k jet and one for the 2.3 audi ke jet and he turns them out 2.5 turns, Great if you can advise through wisdom. 🙂👍
great video! why replace the seals? was it affecting driveability?
Thanks 👍🏻. It was a spare fuel distributor which never quite seemed to run right when I tested it, so decided to have a go at refurbishing it.
I can't get mine to split the seal is really good
You need to check the spring rates, pressures and fill rates for each cylinder. Also did that kit come with Viton seals? Better hope so. Good attention to detail otherwise.
@@thinkerdoit thanks 👍🏻. Yes it was Viton seals.
Check some of my earlier videos where I test the fuel pressure along with fill rates from each injector to balance them:
th-cam.com/video/kukvaGYRRrM/w-d-xo.html
And:
th-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/w-d-xo.html
En la parte final,donde ajustas......la vueltas de 1/2...son iguales que un 8v?
yep
Did you find it any better? Worth doing? My car has done 97 thousand miles and is an rs turbo so I'm thinking of doing this
Hi, yea it seems to work fine, although theres so many other parts to this system which can cause issues so its worth exploring those first before opening the metering head. This was a spare metering head that I had in the garage which I wanted to refurbish anyway.
Unless you are having running issues I would leave it be, or possibly check the injectors first as they can become blocked and may need replacing first. Maybe pull them out and check the spray pattern and go from there.
Where can I find the o-rings for the flow valves at the end of the video?
Have a search on ebay, theres seal repair kits for these metering heads on there 👍🏻
Hello my dear. I'm trying to finish fixing my sister's 16v. I wanted to ask you some questions. the water level indicator when the engine is warm on which line stabilizes? the engine oil temperature at how many degrees stabilizes when the engine is warm?
I am looking for ideas regarding that center housing for the plunger--mine is in the upper half as in this video and it won't budge. Anyone?
Excellent
I need seal set where can I get them could you please let me know to place
The seal kit was purchased from ebay. Theres a link in the description above.
I really want to know if this rebuild worked and if it leaked! Also, what size bolts did you use to plug the space where the banjo bolts were?
also putting the old dia plate back in after a rebuild, You can clearly see that the dia is dentend, it will never be able to set it up right. IMO
@@thebassplayer1985 I put the old dia plate back in for the purpose of finishing the video, as I was waiting for delivery of a new plate at the time of filming. I have since replaced this for a new one and it is now set up and working 👍🏻
Where can I get k jectronic distributor O rings or seal
Search for them on ebay, they do kits for this.
@@RetroVW I am also in need of o rings, but I don't understand why no one will provide the actual dimensions of the o rings. I don't need to buy a $50 kit when I could buy 8 orings for less than $10 if I knew what the actual specs were. Appreciate your video and efforts. Thanks.
Where can I get the filter that is on the center section of the top half, during removal it basically disintegrated in my hands.
Hmmm.. I think you might struggle as these are no longer available I believe. You would probably have to acquire a replacement metering head and swap out the parts to make a good working one.
quel est le nom du joint que vous appliquez ?
coolraver93 Loctite 518
www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/flexible-sealants/loctite_518.html
Vielen dank super Video 👍
exellent! ty!
Hey man, are you still active? I really want to know where and how you got the shift knob and shift boot that shows in your Weighted Shift Rod video..
Hi, The aluminium gear Shift Knob was from a UK company who had a stall at the Gti International event here in the UK. This is going back probably over 10 years ago though so I cant remember the name of the company, but a Google search may find them.
As for the leather Gear Gaiter, this was a DIY job that I made myself.
Hi, great video.
I have the very similar Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Distributor in my Peugeot 505 STI of 1981 (0 438 0100 053 bosch).
But i have a question. Why you count the turns of srew, and later you don't use this counts. You put the screw to 1,5 turns.....
Thanks!
Superheterodí Valvula thanks 👍🏻
I counted the screw turns whilst removing them just to get an idea of the current setup.
As the unit has been stripped down and seals replaced it would need the fuel re balancing across the 4 injector lines anyway, so by setting it to 1.5 turns gets it to its factory base setting before fine tuning later.
ok, perfect, thank you very much!!!
@@RetroVW And how to fine tune it? How do you know how much fuel each injector got?
Dusan Skulavik you have to measure the fuel delivery at each injector and make fine adjustments.
See my other video on injector testing here: th-cam.com/video/aDmavXtSi88/w-d-xo.html
Hey @ 3:50 - 3:54. Can you tell me the thickness of the shim/shims
Hi, I seem to remember I had just 1 shim which was approx 1mm in thickness.
If you need to adjust your system pressure using a fuel pressure guage then you can add/remove shims as follows:
0.50mm shim will increase/decrease system pressure by about 0.30bar (4psi)
1.0mm shim will increase/decrease system pressure by about 0.60bar (8psi)
There could also be other factors that cause bad system pressure such as a blocked or damaged fuel return line.
So the actual question that matters..... did this fix your problem?
J. M. Not had chance to try it yet, crossing my fingers it does. I will update once I have fitted it to the car to test.
@@RetroVW ..Hi..can i please whattsupp you for advice?
Is this the same process for the Volvo k-jet?
yep
Muy interesante me gusta tengo un volvo 240=
Thankyou. Very helpful
Hello. I am surprised the serial number for golf mk2 16v doesn’t match with the serial number from your video. The serial number for Golf gti 2, 16v is 0438101005.
such a good video
I used this guide to service mine. Before I started, there was fuel pressure and the injectors were working; however, despite checking the assembly SEVEN times now, there is no fuel pressure from the metering head. I have tried different fuel pumps and lines, all of which worked before I serviced it. There must be a problem in the reassembly procedure here, but I have no other reference. :-(
Maybe the plunger isn't lined up with the injector line slots?
late for reply this comment but, during assembly the small port on the diaphragm could be get clogged with sealer
when you see that some pers euros to do this .... thanks a lot
So dichtete man keinen Mengenteiler ab und dicht wird er auch nicht Lange bleiben.
I love u 😍😂 thanks
DO NOT BANG THIS PART WITH A MALLET!! I just destroyed my threads doing this and ruined my part
I also definitely did not strongman it
person reclaim 500 euros sorry
Vous démonter un distributeur kjetronic sans prendre la mesure du cylindre et de son écrou vous faites des vidéos trompeuse pour les autres et cela est une preuve que connaissez rien du tou t au démontage d’un distributeur ce que vous faite un enfant de 10 peut le faire votre vidéo c’est du trucage complet car cela ne se sépare pas comme sa tout seul vous faite du cinéma et je sais de quoi je parle car je refais des distributeurs