If I'm lucky, its just the idle regulator... But I didnt buy OEM Bosch, so I hope it works. Fingers crossed. Your videos enable guys like me to keep these old ladies on the roads, thank you!!!
One of the best ever video I have seen talking about the KE- JETRONIC SYSTEM important individual parts and its functions. I will definitely wait for your next video upload for more interesting topics regarding the Driveless Mechanical Injection System made by BOSCH in Germany. Thank you so very much. God bless and stay away from covid.
Thank you very much for these kind words. I will try to find an interesting content. The next thing has to be the duty cycle. I will try to make the video as soon as possible. Warm greetings from Serbia and stay safe. Best regards.
@@mercedeske Thank you for your video. It is educative. I have clutch problem with mercedes 190(201) manual clutch system(master and slave clutch, clutch (pressure) disc and plate. Are quality used spare part available?
Thank you very much for educating us. I changed my water reservoir and had power and rpm issues..after cleaning the contact of the water temp senor my MB is running as it used to...you're heaven sent...again..many many thanks. More power to your channel!
Thank you very much! Thanks for sharing, and a being teacher with this Mercedes stuff! It is a big challenge to figure out my old Benz? You're video has helped🤗!
Thanks for these kind words, you made my day. 😀👍🏻👌🏻🌞🌈I'm glad if I helped you. Just follow the instructions and you can do it yourself! Best regards🙏🏻🌞🍀🍀🍀
My dear subscribers and friends, the second part of the video is being uploaded. I really had a lot of work to do with the video. As soon as the video uploading is over you will be notified. Love you all and Happy Mercedesing!
Where are you form, my friend,? Lovely video a lot of info!!I have a problem with 300sl 24v can I ask something via mail or WhatsApp please. I got enough about English mb specialist.
Hello. Thank you man. I bought an 300E from 1992 some weeks ago and have many problems to fix it. But now i have a way to look forward. Greating from Brasil.
Greetings, I just bought an Audi cabriole from 1993, the convertible has starting problems, I can change the K Jetronic system for a more modern one, look at your video and it is very illustrative, it has a 5-cylinder engine. Thank you
Gracias por la suscripción y gracias por sus amables palabras. Me hace infinitamente feliz cuando la gente me deja un comentario tan positivo. Saludos desde Serbia
Muchisimas gracias por compartir un trabajo tan bueno, profesional y detallado para poder formarnos y solucionar los problemas de nuestros Mercedes! Ya me he suscrito!!!
Fue un placer y estoy muy feliz cuando la gente me deja un comentario tan bonito como tú. Gracias por tus amables palabras y gracias por suscribirte al canal. Muchos saludos.👏👋👍🍀🍀🍀😀😊😉🙂
Excellent video, with very helpful information! I'm however wondering why almost every TH-camr believes he must add background music, it serves no purpose, other than making it more difficult to understand you. This would be so much better without the annoying music.
To localize the part it would be nice to go from a general view to the specific part in order to locate it better, thanks for your dedication and profesionality
Hi and thanks 😊 🙂 As for me, I wouldn't advise you to do that because you would have to replace all the cables and the installation. It's all similar but it isn't.😄
I have a problem with engine warm start. By watching this video, I think it could be fuel accumulator that cause problem. It happened to me twice, driving for a short distance after that parked the car, came back later in half an hour and couldn't start the engine.
All the injectors must start spraying at the same time and stop as soon as the sensor plate is fully depressed when the engine is off(when you jump the contacts 7&8). When the engine is on they are spraying all the time, continuously, until you stall the engine, unlike modern fuel injection types when the injectors spray each at certain moment. Best regards😉😀👍🏻💪🏻🍀🍀🍀
If you have the eha and the potentiometer on the system then it's the Ke-jetronic if not then it's K-Jetronic. There is also K-Jetronic with lambda regulation. So, again...if you have the eha and the potentiometer then you have KE-JETRONIC system.
Pozdrav ivica, imam pitanje u vezi rada motora za Mercedes w201 190E 90 god. Kad palim.motor radi ali se trese kao da radi sa 3 klipova, ne vuće kako treba i trosi mnogo, sta lo moze da bude problem, hvala ti unapred..
Pozdrav. Probaj da proveriš svećice. Prosto - upališ kola, izvučeš kabal sa prvog cilindra, pa sa drugog, itd. Ako izvučeš neki od kablova, a nema razlike u radu to znači da ti ta svećica nije dobra. Ako izvučeš kabal, a motor počne još više da se trese, onda ti je svećica ok. Ako ne, onda ćemo dalje da vidimo šta i kako. Ako su ti u dobrom stanju svećice, kablovi, razvodna kapa, ruka i bobina, onda je moguće da su "propišale" dizne. Diznu možeš da proveriš tako što ćeš da poskidaš svećice i ako je neka masna i čađava, verovatno je propišala brizgaljka, jer, vidi - ako jeste, onda ona više ne rasprašuje gorivo nego kaplju kapi iz nje ili "tanko piša, pod uglom..." pokvasi svećicu i dok se javi opet varnica motor se zatrese i ima neujednačen rad. Znači, ako si siguran da su ti dobre svećice, a auto se trese kad radi, proveri dizne. Još jedna stvar - ako su loše dizne imaš crn dim iz auspuha, tj. loše sagorevanje, jer treba da ti izduvni gasovi budu sivi. Moj ti je savet da odeš na tehnički da ti izmere izduvne gasove - ako imaš povišenu emisiju izduvnih gasova, znači da će biti da je do dizni.
This is by far the best video I have seen covering the topic! I am so grateful to you I resurrected my TH-cam account to tell you how amazing you are. I own a W124 and I am learning about the different components but I haven‘t found a better, clearer explanation than this. Thank you so much for your work!!
Hello, friend and thanks for the compliments. I'm preparing the video that is even better and will be in 4 languages- English, German, Spanish and Serbian. KE in details! Thanks and enjoy tour ride my videos will help you repair your car. Happy Mercedesing 😉🥰😀😉
hello, i'm deeply grateful for your amazing video lectures. however, I have something I would like to ask. i'm korean and am incredibly torn between choosing a w201 190E with ke-jetronic and a late w124 220E with motronic. however, in korea, we transitioned directly from carburetors to injection systems, which means there are hardly any experts on jetronic, or those who are, have retired or are few and far between, making maintenance challenging. People around me recommend not going for jetronic for these reasons; is this true? 1) is it true that jetronic systems are prone to misalignment, requiring regular checks? If so, how often should these checks be carried out? 2) I've heard that if a jetronic system breaks down, parts are hard to come by and can cost as much as a whole used car. Is that true? 3) can I sufficiently maintain and drive it for a long time by learning from your TH-cam videos? Please, I ask for your guidance. i would like to drive a mt Benz, but finding a mt w124 is nearly impossible in korea, even though its maintenance is supposedly easier due to being an injection model. I really want to drive the w201 because it's compact and beautifully designed, and it's manual, but I am struggling with the jetronic system. please respond. Thank you.
Hello and to get to the point. KE-Jetronic is a very reliable system but nothing lasts forever and it requires some maintenance checks. There are some mechanical components which fail on the system and have to be replaced each 150k km and some of them at 50k km. No one has been replacing them so that’s why KE-Jetronic turns out to be a “BAD” system. It is very reliable(not prone to a breakdown even a bit). There are 2 sensors which have to be replaced(one of them is called potentiometer and the second one lambda probe, a modern O2 sensor) and considering the mechanical part - the injectors, the fuel accumulator and the pressure regulator - 2 VERY expensive parts on the system but they last for 150k km, so I wouldn’t say so. That expensive as people told you is the system not FOR SURE!!! Yes, you can fully repair your car watching my videos with one multimeter and a pressure gauge. Sometimes the EHA valve can go bad and all the other parts don’t fail, especially the sensors because they are all just switches. My opinion about the system - a work of art which was not lucky to show its full glory. You can repair it in your garage using common tools, multimeter and a pressure gauge. If neglected then it can be a nightmare because you will have to go through the whole system - ignition, vacuum leaks(related to rubber hoses), mechanical part of the system and sensors. There are videos on my channel about everything, so if you want to give it a try, just go. The system will request a mechanic from you, you must dedicate yourself to it and spend a lot of time but once repaired it will start failing after 50k km (lambda replacement) and 150k km everything else I was speaking about. Greetings from Serbia, Ivica FyM
Hello, I want to ask you for advice, I have a w124 300e 132kW, I have a problem with high emissions, the mixture is rich, consumption is high, engine running is uneven, can it be solved with new injectors? They are original there, they have 330,000 km, thank you for your answer.
Hi there. If you have high emissions then it's the injectors for sure and everything you said are the symptoms of bad injectors. They have to be replaced each 150th km!
Thank you for all of your helpful video's. I have a 1992 Rolls Royce, which also uses the Bosch CIS system, and I find your videos very useful when troubleshooting my CIS system. This might be an unfair question for you, but can I assume that the resistances and voltage of the air flow sensor on a Rolls/Bentley AFS are the same as with the Mercedes? Thanks again.
Hello and thanks for watching. As far as I know the voltage for the potentiometer is the same for all KEJetronic cars. After all that's Fa. Bosch that has been producing those parts for all car manufacturers. Greetings and Happy Roycing!
remove your passanger floor mat. That's the place the o2 sensor has to be located. If you have no catalyst, you have no lambda(o2 sensor). Happy Mercedesing, best regards
im about to buy a 1987 260se and now reading up on the basics of jetronics..with regards to CO screw mechanism, is it as simple as inserting the 3mm allen and turning in the correct direction? or is there a need to press the allen down until it catches the adjusment screw in the metering arm? i may have missed this detail.kindly direct me to the portion on the actual adjusment mechanism..5 stars though on how to adjust, it is the adjustment mechanism that is not so clear
If you know for sure that this screw has never been adjusted you absolutely don't have to adjust it. However, the answer is that you will have to press the key down until it catches the screw. Then you can turn it clockwise or counterclockwise. But I repeat - if you know for sure that the screw hasn't been readjusted, don't screw it, you have absolutely NO NEED for doing it!
@@mercedeske your videos on classic mercedes benzes are the best, I hope i will be Mercedesing in my 190e after watching your videos 😀, i have a 190e 2.0 that the mechanics where i live messed up because they don't know how to work on it, so i am watching your videos to fix it myself in the next months, which me luck 😁
@@mercedeske i will do my best, thank you so much, it will take me some time because where i live i don't have access to some parts (like a new diaphragm), or a pressure meter (i haven't watched enough videos yet but i think its required for good adjustment especially that the engine harness is damaged (also to be replaced :/) so i cant use a multimeter), but i wont stop trying. do you have any recommendations for a good diaphragm for bosch 0 438 0101 026 (190e 2.0l 1991)?
Hi, Thanks 😊 I think it's possible. That one is a mechanical injection system. It's W116. Just let it be in a decent condition because there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. Fingers crossed 🤞
Hello, I have a 1988 model audi 80. KE-jettronic engine. When I turn the ignition on, my fuel pump runs constantly. It used to work for 3-5 seconds before. I can't find the cause of the problem. I'd be very grateful if you could give me a clue.
Thank you for this video. Does the fuel accumulator preform the same job that a fuel check valve does? The check valve prevents fuel from flowing back to the fuel tank and therefore it keeps the fuel pressured up in the engine for a quicker start.
Wow what an amazing effort this video! Thanks for this. Have a question: My 1991 w124 300E does NOT have an o2 sensor that I can use to check duty cycle. Is this normal? Did all of them come with an o2 sensor?
Hi and thanks for the comment! There were 3 versions - RuF, KAT and ECE(the strongest one). It's normal for a car not to have a cat. If you have pin numb.3 you can check your duty cycle - just it the multimeter has to show you a steady number of 50% with no fluctuations. As for the duty cycle - if you are sure that nobody has been messing around with the mixture screw, then your duty cycle is fine. Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske I tried measuring duty cycle but it stays at 100% with no fluctuation. I'm using a variable voltmeter with duty cycle formula to calculate. The car does not have a CAT or an 02 sensor on the exhaust. It's a 1991 4matic 300E 12v. Is it possible to verify (through the VIN perhaps) whether the original car came with 02 sensor from factory? Maybe that's why it stays in open loop even after warming up.
@@shaazy With 100% is something wrong. You will have to get a steady 50%(no fluctuation). Check something, maybe you have an error in the ECU. Here it is hat it says for 100% - You have no voltage or ground on X11(diagnostic socket), you have an interruption from the x11 to the ECU, you have no ground or voltage on the ECU(ovp bad) or the ECU bad. There is some error there. Concerning the sensor - if you have catalyst you have lambda and one more way - it says on the sticker as you pen the hood - OHNE KAT - NO CAT. If it says CAT then you have a catalyst. There, I tried to help as much as possible.
@@mercedeske Thanks so much! Car is currently at the workshop and I'm finding it a pain to locate suspension parts for the 4matic from a vendor. Do you have any recommendations online? I did check the sticker, it does not mention KAT at all. I'll do some more digging with the VIN and see if it shows up on factory specs and update.
Thanks for the good video. I drive a 124.023/ M102/ 1987 230E and recently my economy guage shoots to the redline mark after slight acceleration or pushing the gas pedal at operating temperature while driving. Fuel consumption has worsened too. Any suggestions why it does this or which part(s) I need to diagnose?
Help please. My M103 engine starts perfectly but surges and stalls, runs again for a few moments before nearly stalling, only when the engine is cold. After a few mins running everything is perfect the car drive's beautifully. I have fitted a new VCR, potentiometer, accumulator and fuel pump. Living in Thailand the engine cold start has been disconnected and has made no difference in the past when the engine started and ran perfectly. If you have any ideas I would love to hear and greatly appreciate
Okay. Did you calibrate the potentiometer? As you replaced the potentiometer, did you measure the voltage? Second thing - check the coolant temperature sensor you have a video on my channel just type "the coolant temperature sensor"
@@mercedeske Hi again and thank you for your reply. I put a new potentiometer on about 1 year ago and everything was fine so I don't think this is the problem unless its died again. the coolant sensor was replaced about 6 months ago. I might try the voltage test on the potentiometer again to see if its died. I'll let you know. Again many many thanks for the great videos. I might just make one suggestion though, please don't have background music, I can barely make out the dialogue and it really is unnecessary, in my opinion.
@@mercedeske Hi again, unfortunately, I removed it, there is a deep groove in the graphite though. I could reassemble but I can buy a new OEM part here for 3000 Bht 100 $US. What is your advice?
@@stevesutton9444 Buy the new one. The potentiometer is being replaced each 90k miles/150k km. The ECU doesn't get the information about the ideal position of the sensor plate!As I wanted to buy it in my town they found the part and told me that its name is "The potentiometer for regulating duty cycle while idling". It's extremely important for the engine and for its operation. If the OEM part is that cheap buy it and calibrate it(because here in the stores they wanted to sell me one for 300 euros). I believe you are going to solve your issue.
Hi nice video, I have a w201 2.0 and it does not want to start, ocationally it starts but misfires so it stalls and then its hard to start again or it doesnt start. The spark plugs have some fuel on them when I check them, but also I check all HT leads and all of them are sparking, so am very confused because the is fuel and spark but wont start or run properly..would you be able to guide me on how to check it properly ??
Hi, thanks. At first-check the injectors. If you have more than 90k miles/150k km, replace them. At first did you or anyone else turn the mixture screw?
@@mercedeske hi thank you for replying, the car has 110k miles, the car was running fine one day, next day was no longer running ok. No one touch the mixture screw. Only me working on the car, I change fuel pump and filter and also clean fuel tank and change fuel tank strainer inside the tank. I ordered injectors so I can change them, may be tomorrow. After the problem I also change distributor diaphragm and o rings but car is the same no start or running very bad.
Hi,I own 124 E200,i have steady idle but if you push hard the petal misfire and don't go over 2000rpm. Its fuel distributer or fuel regulator ? Best regards !
On KE-JETRONIC I would advise you to check out first the voltage on pin 3(red), pin 2(black). When the engine is warm you should read 6.55-7.2V(high number in voltage)If this is not the case you have a rich mixture. Send me the video on my fb page fix your Mercedes.
Hi, does anyone have any tips on what could be causing the slow acceleration after engine warm up on the W124 - 300-24V ? If I give it more throttle, the engine shuts off, I have to throttle with feeling to get it going and it takes maybe 10-15 seconds, which is pretty bad in a junction. I replaced the spark plugs, cables, coil, OVP relay, distributor cap and rotors, temperature sensors, fuel filter and still same problem + I have bad cold starts. I bought the car half a year ago, everything worked, the car was not driven and now on the first drive and several starts the following symptoms appear. Thanks
Hi. For the beginning replace the potentiometer and calibrate it, replace the lambda and check the cold start valve, replace the injectors and that should make things better. Concerning stalling at the junction, that's an issue which for, if everything is in order, I believe that the ECU is the culprit. But, before replacing the ECU check the whole system for its nominal values for each of the parts and then, then you can try with the ECU. This should help you solve many issues on your system.
Thank you very much for your video. I've recently bought a w124 200E with m102 engine. What I noticed is that sometimes when I start the engine it has an acceleration and seems the correct mode of operation because then when for example the AC is on, it is capable of compensating and maintaining the correct rpm. But sometimes there is no acceleration at the start of the engine and is more difficult to turn on. Furthermore is not capable of compensating the RPM when AC is on. I checked the idle control valve and is working. Seems like the electronics don't get the rpm signal to adjust the idle valve (I've also changed the ECU with no success. Any suggestion? Thanks
I don't know if it is correlated or not but after some weeks I bought the car and started using it, It happened three or four times to smell something like a burning cable from the AC vent. All the ventilation system is working well. I don't know if it could be or not but I suspect that some cables from ECU to the KE-Jetronic system that passes inside the ventilation are damaged. I said that because one of the last I smelled it I stopped the car and tried to find out where the smell came out. And it wasn't in the engine compartment but in the cabin filter compartment. This happened some months ago. Since then no more smell but even no more idle stabilizing.
Everything you need from the special tools is torx set if you have to adjust the fuel pressure regulator(4,5mm allen/torx 27). Everything else are just common tools. Fine tune-a pressure gauge and a multimeter. You can find everything on ebay.
It has to absorb the vibrations from the pump in order for the fuel pump buzzing sound not to spread on the chassis and not to be heard in the interior of the car.
@@mercedeske so if I don’t hear the fuel pump buzzing I don’t need to replace the damper cage ? But why he have 3 pipes ? 1 to fuel pump 2 to accumulator 3 to fuel tank
@@guyrozen4506 The fuel starts from the pump and flows to through the filter into the fuel distributor. The fuel accumulator has to absorb the vibrations from the pump. All three parts have to get fuel.
Hello my friend how are you? I follow all your videos and I wanted to ask you if you know how to repair the fuel pump relay of a Mercedes 230E year 1981, since in my country it is not available as a spare part. From now many thanks and greetings!!
@@diegovelazquez9213 Try to start the car. Remove the relay, put a wire in the contacts 7&8 and if the car starts, then it's the fuel pump. If the fuel pump runs, then it's not the pump relay, check the coolant temperature sensor or the cold start valve.
@@mercedeske Thanks, but the problem I have is that I put the car in contact (without starting) and the pump continues to send fuel continuously. Before in a few seconds it stopped
A quick question, would you have any ideas as to what may cause a long crank / start time, hot or cold , it’s not too long but longer than I’d expect 👍
If it's always like that check if your timing is okay. The rotor must face the groove on its housing. If that's not the case, then turn CLOCKWISE the crankshaft until the nail faces the OT mark. For that purpose remove the distributor cap. So, your timing is set when the OT mark(TDC) is aligned with the nail on the other side, as well as the rotor which then must face the groove of its housing facing the cylinder 1. If that's not a case but it has a slight tolerance then you will have to do it manually by unscrewing the allen and moving the whole housing clockwise or counterclockwise. If your timing is set then maybe you have some pressure loss somewhere(the seal ring on the plunger) or you have leaky injectors or a cold start valve(many possibilities).
Is it possible to not to have an O2 sensor? Mine does not have one and I was told at the local MB garage that it wasn't fitted with it originally. It's a 1989 w124 300e 12v. Tia
Yes, it is possible but if you have a catalyst then you have lambda as well. It's easy to check, if it's present it is located underneath in the exhaust pipe before the catalyst.
@@mercedeske Thank you, it doesnt have a catalyc converter, but I was not 100% sure that it come from the fsctory like that or that some one removed it as I can see that the exhaust was replaced.
Bonjour j’ai trouvé la soupape de ralenti au lieu d’être fixer sur la pipe d’admission elle est au dessus du filtre à huile question :: avec le multimètre en mode continuité (bio bio) quand je teste à la prise il y a deus broches et quand je teste les broches une par une à la masse voiture sa sonne (bip) et quand je teste aussi la fiche avec testeur une broche avec autre broche aussi fait (bip) peu tu me dire si c’est normal qu’il y’a continuité à la masse et aussi entre deux broches ???? Merci
Concernant la valve de contrôle de ralenti, la seule chose que je peux vous dire est que le fil supérieur (si vous en avez 2) va à l'ECU et le fil inférieur au relais de protection contre les surtensions (fil bleu/rouge). Au ralenti lorsque le moteur est chaud, vous devez obtenir entre 4 et 6,5 V
@@mercedeske Nice to meet you.. I hope you will always be healthy .. and thank you for the knowledge you give .. don't forget me..😃🙏🙏 I will tell this to my mechanical friend in Indonesia, and I will say you are a good person ..🙏🙏
Thanks for your kind words, I hope you will be healthy as well and I wish you that from my heart. I am glad to have good persons around me, such as you are🙏🙏🙏
Well done on a very informative video. I recently purchased a W126 300SE and on the advise of my mechanic I had to replace the EHA valve. Good to know how the fuel system works. Thank you again!
Hi, I bought a 190e 2.6 and it doesn't run, so - I put a brand new battery and replaced the distributor cap and Ik now that my electricals work so I tried starting it and nothing happened unless I sprayed the intake with quick start, and the engine fires up then dies immediately afterwards So my guess was to replace the fuel distributor with a used one that I got from a parts car (the guy said it ran before parting) because I was getting no fuel to the injector lines and the car still didn't fire up so.. I replaced the old fuel pumps with 2 brand new bosch fuel pumps thinking the fuel pressure is too low in order to start And my car still doesn't run :( Can you help me out plz You think the fuel distributor is faulty or can it be any other problem
Hi. At first check if the other fuel distributor is compatible with your car. Concerning the old fuel distributor, when you deflect the sensor plate, does it slides easy downwards? Find a pressure gauge and measure the pressures, you should get working pressure 5.7-5.9bar, the pressure from the pump 6.1-6.3bar. How many kms/miles has the car on the clock? If it's more than 150k km/100k miles, check the injectors.
@@mercedeske my car has 157k on it I get no fuel to the injector line, and when I have the car ignition ON I believe I feel some resistance when I push the airflow plate down
Unscrew all the lines and make the pump running continuously, don't touch the sensor, no fuel must be flowing out of the ports. Afterwards deflect the sensor plate a bit and observe if you get the same quantity of fuel. If you don't get the same quantity, then you should clean the fuel distributor.
hello, I am very grateful for this video, thank you very much, greetings from Kazakhstan Karaganda I have w201 3 cars, your videos are very useful. Unfortunately, I do not know English and it is difficult for me to understand it, but I will try to make an audio translation. Your work is priceless!) thank you again.
This isnt just Mercedes relevant. I have an Audi 100 C3 with 2.2 cat and they didnt make that many with the KE-jetronic. This is absolute gold!!!
Woooow, thanks my friend. Many greetings and hope you solve yours issues if you have any(I hope sincerly not). Best regards🍀🍀🍀
If I'm lucky, its just the idle regulator... But I didnt buy OEM Bosch, so I hope it works. Fingers crossed. Your videos enable guys like me to keep these old ladies on the roads, thank you!!!
@@eliasnielsenhansen950 Fingers crossed 🤞🍀🍀🍀
Audi 90 and 80 also 2.3 NG 5cylinder, maybe 2.0 and 2.2 but they are extra rare
If you own a Mercedes w124, you need to watch this series! Incredible value. I suggest you add more keywords, so people can find this gold mine.
Thanks my friend for your kind words. Best regards and wishes 😀😃🙂🙋♂️🙇♂️
BEST videos and explanations for the mysterious KE-Jetronic system for today's times!! ✌🥇
Greetings from Macedonia!
Thanks 😊 🙏 🍀🍀🍀Greetings from Serbia
thank you very much of your detailed description :) ,,, greetings from egypt
Thanks. Greetings to you, too from Serbia
This guy is great.
Just what I need to maintain my 190E 16V system- Brilliant
Thanks 😀😀😀👍👍👍
One of the best ever video I have seen talking about the KE- JETRONIC SYSTEM important individual parts and its functions. I will definitely wait for your next video upload for more interesting topics regarding the Driveless Mechanical Injection System made by BOSCH in Germany. Thank you so very much. God bless and stay away from covid.
Thank you very much for these kind words. I will try to find an interesting content. The next thing has to be the duty cycle. I will try to make the video as soon as possible. Warm greetings from Serbia and stay safe. Best regards.
I think the same !!
Thank you. You are both great!😊👏🏻👍🏻😎🍀🍀🍀
Amazing video! You’re English is fantastic and your video helped me a ton. I will be watching the second part right now!
Thank a lot for your nice words.😃😃😃🙇♂️🍀🍀🍀
@@mercedeske Thank you for your video. It is educative. I have clutch problem with mercedes 190(201) manual clutch system(master and slave clutch, clutch (pressure) disc and plate. Are quality used spare part available?
@@adeyemibabatunde1814 Thanks. I believe there are good spare parts on ebay. Just search by the number.
@@mercedeske unfortunately eBay doesn't ship to Nigeria
Thank you very much for educating us. I changed my water reservoir and had power and rpm issues..after cleaning the contact of the water temp senor my MB is running as it used to...you're heaven sent...again..many many thanks. More power to your channel!
Thanks for those nice words! Happy Mercedesing 😃, enjoy your ride!🍀🍀🍀
Thank you very much! Thanks for sharing, and a being teacher with this Mercedes stuff! It is a big challenge to figure out my old Benz? You're video has helped🤗!
Thanks for these kind words, you made my day. 😀👍🏻👌🏻🌞🌈I'm glad if I helped you. Just follow the instructions and you can do it yourself! Best regards🙏🏻🌞🍀🍀🍀
My dear subscribers and friends, the second part of the video is being uploaded. I really had a lot of work to do with the video. As soon as the video uploading is over you will be notified. Love you all and Happy Mercedesing!
Where are you form, my friend,? Lovely video a lot of info!!I have a problem with 300sl 24v can I ask something via mail or WhatsApp please. I got enough about English mb specialist.
@@wiktorgsxr Thanks, I am from Serbia. You can send me an email on schillery@yahoo.com
Best regards
Hello. Thank you man. I bought an 300E from 1992 some weeks ago and have many problems to fix it. But now i have a way to look forward. Greating from Brasil.
Olá aí! You are welcome 😊 Glad to be of help😀🍀🍀🍀and "saudades" I'm preparing a video on steady idle. It will be published soon.
Ivica - greetings from Sweden. Such great resource on a system where much knowledge is falling into history. Thank you! I'm a subscriber!
You are welcome. Best regards and thank you for your kind words!
I am about to do all this job on a 1983 380sl so this video is extremely useful thank you.!
My pleasure 😊
Greetings from Poland , awesome video ,i preparing myself to rebuild one of these systems . Thank you for your knowledge .
Greetings to you, too and thank you for your kind words.🍀🍀🍀🖐👍
These videos are a blessing, I will never thank you enough my friend
My pleasure. Thank you for your kind words 👍🏻🍀🍀🍀👏🏻🍻
@@mercedeske hopefully I will manage to get my 1992 W124 200E working as it used to
@@micheledirocco4994 Just follow the videos and you will for sure!😀😎
he really makes it easy to explain that complicated system
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Happy Mercedesing! ;-)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge - it is much appreciated.
Glad to be of help!😉Happy Mercedesing 😃
Thank you so much God bless you
@@ashingtongwexa4373 Thank you as well 🙏🏻 ☺ 💓 😊 🍀🍀🍀🙋
Thanks for sharing and explaining these parts cheers!
Always, my pleasure
Greetings, I just bought an Audi cabriole from 1993, the convertible has starting problems, I can change the K Jetronic system for a more modern one, look at your video and it is very illustrative, it has a 5-cylinder engine. Thank you
My pleasure, glad you like it 😀 😊 🍀🍀🍀
What a good video, I subscribed instantly. Greetings from Chile!
Gracias por la suscripción y gracias por sus amables palabras. Me hace infinitamente feliz cuando la gente me deja un comentario tan positivo.
Saludos desde Serbia
Very good resource! Thanks again. Have a 190E 2.3 with cold start issues
Check the cold start valve
@@mercedeske my E.C.U was the culprit. No power supply to the cold start valve and EHA valve
@@123works I'm glad you found the issue.
Greetings from romania MB 300E . Best tutorial!
Thank you. Glad you like it.😊👍Salutari
Hi I own a 124 230e, 124 e200 and a 203 c180 compressor as this video was very helpful Thank you so much
My pleasure, glad to be of help 😀 happy Mercedesing 😃
You did a great job thank you so much hello from Denver Colorado
Glad to be of help. Thank you for your kind words and greetings from Serbia.
Muchisimas gracias por compartir un trabajo tan bueno, profesional y detallado para poder formarnos y solucionar los problemas de nuestros Mercedes!
Ya me he suscrito!!!
Fue un placer y estoy muy feliz cuando la gente me deja un comentario tan bonito como tú. Gracias por tus amables palabras y gracias por suscribirte al canal. Muchos saludos.👏👋👍🍀🍀🍀😀😊😉🙂
O
Excellent video, with very helpful information! I'm however wondering why almost every TH-camr believes he must add background music, it serves no purpose, other than making it more difficult to understand you. This would be so much better without the annoying music.
I won't be adding music anymore, I had some issues so no more music....
Very helpful thanks!
Thanks, my dear Locry!
Great video! Thanks for putting it together!
It was my pleasure. I had many troubles with this system so I don't want you to have them the same way as me😀😃👍👌
To localize the part it would be nice to go from a general view to the specific part in order to locate it better, thanks for your dedication and profesionality
Thank you very good information
Very Good. Thank you!!!
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing!
Thank you 🙏
My pleasure!
Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks, mate 👍 😀😃🙂🍀🍀🍀
This background music is everything
Thanks
This is great, thank you!
👍👍👍
Hi your knowledge is second to none , if i were replacing k jetronic with ke jetronic would i replace the relay as well yes?
Hi and thanks 😊 🙂 As for me, I wouldn't advise you to do that because you would have to replace all the cables and the installation. It's all similar but it isn't.😄
I have a problem with engine warm start. By watching this video, I think it could be fuel accumulator that cause problem. It happened to me twice, driving for a short distance after that parked the car, came back later in half an hour and couldn't start the engine.
Check the fuel accumulator
Thank you
Glad to be of help. Just follow everything carefully and you can repair your car all by yourself!
Do all the Injectors spray at same time.and all the time s?thank you
All the injectors must start spraying at the same time and stop as soon as the sensor plate is fully depressed when the engine is off(when you jump the contacts 7&8). When the engine is on they are spraying all the time, continuously, until you stall the engine, unlike modern fuel injection types when the injectors spray each at certain moment. Best regards😉😀👍🏻💪🏻🍀🍀🍀
@@mercedeske thank reply,I'm trying to figure out this system operation.i have this car it starts and dies after 5-10 seconds.
Let me guess! The car starts, the ICV gets the RPM to 1200rpm and as the engine has to start idling it dies, right?
@@mercedeske yes that's exactly what happens.it starts jus fine but doesn't stay running.
@@upkarbath Your problem is the potentiometer! If you made over 90k miles(150k km) and you have never replaced the part, well, that's your problem!
Thanks so much I love it great and greetings from America
Thanks a lot. Just enjoy and many greetings from Serbia. Happy Mercedesing 😃
Good job men
Dzięki stary. Miałem wiele problemów z tym systemem i chciałem, aby ludzie wiedzieli wszystko o KE-JETRONIC.
Excellent
Thanks, I'm glad if you liked the video!👍🏻👏🏻🍀🍀🍀🍻😀
Finally. Thank you.
My pleasure 😊
hi! 5,7- 5 ,9 bar good. Mine 5 bar. If I push the gas, only 4 bar. Fuel pump bad?
Fuel pressure regulator
I have a1982 Volvo 244 gl, and I think it has the same system. Do you know if it’s the same?
If you have the eha and the potentiometer on the system then it's the Ke-jetronic if not then it's K-Jetronic. There is also K-Jetronic with lambda regulation. So, again...if you have the eha and the potentiometer then you have KE-JETRONIC system.
Pozdrav ivica, imam pitanje u vezi rada motora za Mercedes w201 190E 90 god. Kad palim.motor radi ali se trese kao da radi sa 3 klipova, ne vuće kako treba i trosi mnogo, sta lo moze da bude problem, hvala ti unapred..
Pozdrav. Probaj da proveriš svećice. Prosto - upališ kola, izvučeš kabal sa prvog cilindra, pa sa drugog, itd. Ako izvučeš neki od kablova, a nema razlike u radu to znači da ti ta svećica nije dobra. Ako izvučeš kabal, a motor počne još više da se trese, onda ti je svećica ok. Ako ne, onda ćemo dalje da vidimo šta i kako. Ako su ti u dobrom stanju svećice, kablovi, razvodna kapa, ruka i bobina, onda je moguće da su "propišale" dizne. Diznu možeš da proveriš tako što ćeš da poskidaš svećice i ako je neka masna i čađava, verovatno je propišala brizgaljka, jer, vidi - ako jeste, onda ona više ne rasprašuje gorivo nego kaplju kapi iz nje ili "tanko piša, pod uglom..." pokvasi svećicu i dok se javi opet varnica motor se zatrese i ima neujednačen rad. Znači, ako si siguran da su ti dobre svećice, a auto se trese kad radi, proveri dizne. Još jedna stvar - ako su loše dizne imaš crn dim iz auspuha, tj. loše sagorevanje, jer treba da ti izduvni gasovi budu sivi. Moj ti je savet da odeš na tehnički da ti izmere izduvne gasove - ako imaš povišenu emisiju izduvnih gasova, znači da će biti da je do dizni.
This is by far the best video I have seen covering the topic! I am so grateful to you I resurrected my TH-cam account to tell you how amazing you are. I own a W124 and I am learning about the different components but I haven‘t found a better, clearer explanation than this. Thank you so much for your work!!
Hello, friend and thanks for the compliments. I'm preparing the video that is even better and will be in 4 languages- English, German, Spanish and Serbian. KE in details! Thanks and enjoy tour ride my videos will help you repair your car. Happy Mercedesing 😉🥰😀😉
hello, i'm deeply grateful for your amazing video lectures. however, I have something I would like to ask. i'm korean and am incredibly torn between choosing a w201 190E with ke-jetronic and a late w124 220E with motronic. however, in korea, we transitioned directly from carburetors to injection systems, which means there are hardly any experts on jetronic, or those who are, have retired or are few and far between, making maintenance challenging. People around me recommend not going for jetronic for these reasons; is this true?
1) is it true that jetronic systems are prone to misalignment, requiring regular checks? If so, how often should these checks be carried out?
2) I've heard that if a jetronic system breaks down, parts are hard to come by and can cost as much as a whole used car. Is that true?
3) can I sufficiently maintain and drive it for a long time by learning from your TH-cam videos? Please, I ask for your guidance.
i would like to drive a mt Benz, but finding a mt w124 is nearly impossible in korea, even though its maintenance is supposedly easier due to being an injection model. I really want to drive the w201 because it's compact and beautifully designed, and it's manual, but I am struggling with the jetronic system. please respond. Thank you.
Hello and to get to the point. KE-Jetronic is a very reliable system but nothing lasts forever and it requires some maintenance checks. There are some mechanical components which fail on the system and have to be replaced each 150k km and some of them at 50k km. No one has been replacing them so that’s why KE-Jetronic turns out to be a “BAD” system. It is very reliable(not prone to a breakdown even a bit). There are 2 sensors which have to be replaced(one of them is called potentiometer and the second one lambda probe, a modern O2 sensor) and considering the mechanical part - the injectors, the fuel accumulator and the pressure regulator - 2 VERY expensive parts on the system but they last for 150k km, so I wouldn’t say so. That expensive as people told you is the system not FOR SURE!!! Yes, you can fully repair your car watching my videos with one multimeter and a pressure gauge. Sometimes the EHA valve can go bad and all the other parts don’t fail, especially the sensors because they are all just switches. My opinion about the system - a work of art which was not lucky to show its full glory. You can repair it in your garage using common tools, multimeter and a pressure gauge. If neglected then it can be a nightmare because you will have to go through the whole system - ignition, vacuum leaks(related to rubber hoses), mechanical part of the system and sensors. There are videos on my channel about everything, so if you want to give it a try, just go. The system will request a mechanic from you, you must dedicate yourself to it and spend a lot of time but once repaired it will start failing after 50k km (lambda replacement) and 150k km everything else I was speaking about.
Greetings from Serbia,
Ivica FyM
in korea, the technicians, out of annoyance, said, "recommend you just get a new car." you're my savior, master!. thank you so much!!!
@@mercedeske
please enjoy a delicious coffee on me, even if it's just a small amount! Thank you.
Hello, I want to ask you for advice, I have a w124 300e 132kW, I have a problem with high emissions, the mixture is rich, consumption is high, engine running is uneven, can it be solved with new injectors? They are original there, they have 330,000 km, thank you for your answer.
Hi there.
If you have high emissions then it's the injectors for sure and everything you said are the symptoms of bad injectors. They have to be replaced each 150th km!
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Happy Mercedesing!
Thank you for all of your helpful video's. I have a 1992 Rolls Royce, which also uses the Bosch CIS system, and I find your videos very useful when troubleshooting my CIS system. This might be an unfair question for you, but can I assume that the resistances and voltage of the air flow sensor on a Rolls/Bentley AFS are the same as with the Mercedes? Thanks again.
Hello and thanks for watching. As far as I know the voltage for the potentiometer is the same for all KEJetronic cars. After all that's Fa. Bosch that has been producing those parts for all car manufacturers.
Greetings and Happy Roycing!
@@mercedeske Thank you for the reply.
Hello again.. how can i determine that my 300GE m103 does not have oxygen sensor/ lambda sensor, it says eze ece on ezl trimmer.
remove your passanger floor mat. That's the place the o2 sensor has to be located. If you have no catalyst, you have no lambda(o2 sensor). Happy Mercedesing, best regards
im about to buy a 1987 260se and now reading up on the basics of jetronics..with regards to CO screw mechanism, is it as simple as inserting the 3mm allen and turning in the correct direction? or is there a need to press the allen down until it catches the adjusment screw in the metering arm? i may have missed this detail.kindly direct me to the portion on the actual adjusment mechanism..5 stars though on how to adjust, it is the adjustment mechanism that is not so clear
If you know for sure that this screw has never been adjusted you absolutely don't have to adjust it. However, the answer is that you will have to press the key down until it catches the screw. Then you can turn it clockwise or counterclockwise. But I repeat - if you know for sure that the screw hasn't been readjusted, don't screw it, you have absolutely NO NEED for doing it!
Thank you sooo much
My pleasure. Happy Mercedesing 🍀 😊 😃
@@mercedeske your videos on classic mercedes benzes are the best, I hope i will be Mercedesing in my 190e after watching your videos 😀, i have a 190e 2.0 that the mechanics where i live messed up because they don't know how to work on it, so i am watching your videos to fix it myself in the next months, which me luck 😁
@@JhnStill Thanks. Just watch my videos and you will be able to repair your car yourself and to save yourself money.
@@mercedeske i will do my best, thank you so much, it will take me some time because where i live i don't have access to some parts (like a new diaphragm), or a pressure meter (i haven't watched enough videos yet but i think its required for good adjustment especially that the engine harness is damaged (also to be replaced :/) so i cant use a multimeter), but i wont stop trying. do you have any recommendations for a good diaphragm for bosch 0 438 0101 026 (190e 2.0l 1991)?
Hi, congratulations on the explanatory video. Is it possible to find the system? it's the price? Well, I'm looking at a 450SEL 6.9 1976 automatic.
Hi, Thanks 😊 I think it's possible. That one is a mechanical injection system. It's W116. Just let it be in a decent condition because there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes. Fingers crossed 🤞
Hello, I have a 1988 model audi 80. KE-jettronic engine. When I turn the ignition on, my fuel pump runs constantly. It used to work for 3-5 seconds before. I can't find the cause of the problem. I'd be very grateful if you could give me a clue.
On Mercedes I would either replace or check the fuel pump relay.
i loved the video
Thanks. Happy Mercedesing 😃
Thank you for this video. Does the fuel accumulator preform the same job that a fuel check valve does? The check valve prevents fuel from flowing back to the fuel tank and therefore it keeps the fuel pressured up in the engine for a quicker start.
Greetings and thanks. Yes. The fuel accumulator makes warm starts easier.
@@mercedeske - My car is a 1982 Volvo 240 turbo with k-jet. Can a car have both an accumulator and a check valve?
If you mean the pressure valve, then you have both components.
Wow what an amazing effort this video! Thanks for this. Have a question: My 1991 w124 300E does NOT have an o2 sensor that I can use to check duty cycle. Is this normal? Did all of them come with an o2 sensor?
Hi and thanks for the comment! There were 3 versions - RuF, KAT and ECE(the strongest one). It's normal for a car not to have a cat. If you have pin numb.3 you can check your duty cycle - just it the multimeter has to show you a steady number of 50% with no fluctuations. As for the duty cycle - if you are sure that nobody has been messing around with the mixture screw, then your duty cycle is fine. Happy Mercedesing
@@mercedeske I tried measuring duty cycle but it stays at 100% with no fluctuation. I'm using a variable voltmeter with duty cycle formula to calculate. The car does not have a CAT or an 02 sensor on the exhaust. It's a 1991 4matic 300E 12v. Is it possible to verify (through the VIN perhaps) whether the original car came with 02 sensor from factory? Maybe that's why it stays in open loop even after warming up.
@@shaazy With 100% is something wrong. You will have to get a steady 50%(no fluctuation). Check something, maybe you have an error in the ECU. Here it is hat it says for 100% - You have no voltage or ground on X11(diagnostic socket), you have an interruption from the x11 to the ECU, you have no ground or voltage on the ECU(ovp bad) or the ECU bad. There is some error there. Concerning the sensor - if you have catalyst you have lambda and one more way - it says on the sticker as you pen the hood - OHNE KAT - NO CAT. If it says CAT then you have a catalyst. There, I tried to help as much as possible.
@@mercedeske Thanks so much! Car is currently at the workshop and I'm finding it a pain to locate suspension parts for the 4matic from a vendor. Do you have any recommendations online? I did check the sticker, it does not mention KAT at all. I'll do some more digging with the VIN and see if it shows up on factory specs and update.
@@shaazy As for the parts, you can search on the W124 site. I'm one of the admins there
facebook.com/groups/Mercedes.Benz.W124.Parts
Very good sir.
Excellent👍
Thanks
What troubles you, my friend? How can I help you?
Thanks for the good video. I drive a 124.023/ M102/ 1987 230E and recently my economy guage shoots to the redline mark after slight acceleration or pushing the gas pedal at operating temperature while driving. Fuel consumption has worsened too. Any suggestions why it does this or which part(s) I need to diagnose?
Hello, try replacing the O2 sensor if you have one.
@@mercedeske It was replaced with a new Bosch sensor only 5 years ago and the part cost 140 euros.
@@mojo888x What about the potentiometer?
Help please. My M103 engine starts perfectly but surges and stalls, runs again for a few moments before nearly stalling, only when the engine is cold. After a few mins running everything is perfect the car drive's beautifully. I have fitted a new VCR, potentiometer, accumulator and fuel pump. Living in Thailand the engine cold start has been disconnected and has made no difference in the past when the engine started and ran perfectly. If you have any ideas I would love to hear and greatly appreciate
Okay. Did you calibrate the potentiometer? As you replaced the potentiometer, did you measure the voltage? Second thing - check the coolant temperature sensor you have a video on my channel just type "the coolant temperature sensor"
@@mercedeske Hi again and thank you for your reply. I put a new potentiometer on about 1 year ago and everything was fine so I don't think this is the problem unless its died again. the coolant sensor was replaced about 6 months ago. I might try the voltage test on the potentiometer again to see if its died. I'll let you know. Again many many thanks for the great videos. I might just make one suggestion though, please don't have background music, I can barely make out the dialogue and it really is unnecessary, in my opinion.
Did you get 0.7V +-0.1 on the potentiometer while the engine is warm and running?
@@mercedeske Hi again, unfortunately, I removed it, there is a deep groove in the graphite though. I could reassemble but I can buy a new OEM part here for 3000 Bht 100 $US. What is your advice?
@@stevesutton9444 Buy the new one. The potentiometer is being replaced each 90k miles/150k km. The ECU doesn't get the information about the ideal position of the sensor plate!As I wanted to buy it in my town they found the part and told me that its name is "The potentiometer for regulating duty cycle while idling". It's extremely important for the engine and for its operation. If the OEM part is that cheap buy it and calibrate it(because here in the stores they wanted to sell me one for 300 euros). I believe you are going to solve your issue.
Thanks for the info! Is this the same setup as in w123 230E? I'm currently looking to buy one so I'm informing myself. Thanks!
Yes. Even some parts less(plastic holders for 6 cylinder engines). The rest is totally the same, I own a 2.3e, too!Best regards
Hi nice video, I have a w201 2.0 and it does not want to start, ocationally it starts but misfires so it stalls and then its hard to start again or it doesnt start. The spark plugs have some fuel on them when I check them, but also I check all HT leads and all of them are sparking, so am very confused because the is fuel and spark but wont start or run properly..would you be able to guide me on how to check it properly ??
Hi, thanks. At first-check the injectors. If you have more than 90k miles/150k km, replace them. At first did you or anyone else turn the mixture screw?
@@mercedeske hi thank you for replying, the car has 110k miles, the car was running fine one day, next day was no longer running ok. No one touch the mixture screw. Only me working on the car, I change fuel pump and filter and also clean fuel tank and change fuel tank strainer inside the tank. I ordered injectors so I can change them, may be tomorrow. After the problem I also change distributor diaphragm and o rings but car is the same no start or running very bad.
@@T.F.D77 Changes the injectors and if the problem persists check the sensors.
@@mercedeske ok thank you I’ll change the injectors and see what happens, how do I check the sensors ?
@@T.F.D77 Each 30k miles replace the o2 sensor, each 100k miles the potentiometer, check the coolant temperature sensor, the tps, the micro switch.
Hi,I own 124 E200,i have steady idle but if you push hard the petal misfire and don't go over 2000rpm.
Its fuel distributer or fuel regulator ?
Best regards !
On KE-JETRONIC I would advise you to check out first the voltage on pin 3(red), pin 2(black). When the engine is warm you should read 6.55-7.2V(high number in voltage)If this is not the case you have a rich mixture. Send me the video on my fb page fix your Mercedes.
@@mercedeske Thank you so much for the immediately response ! I will check that.Thanks a lot again!
Hi, does anyone have any tips on what could be causing the slow acceleration after engine warm up on the W124 - 300-24V ? If I give it more throttle, the engine shuts off, I have to throttle with feeling to get it going and it takes maybe 10-15 seconds, which is pretty bad in a junction. I replaced the spark plugs, cables, coil, OVP relay, distributor cap and rotors, temperature sensors, fuel filter and still same problem + I have bad cold starts. I bought the car half a year ago, everything worked, the car was not driven and now on the first drive and several starts the following symptoms appear. Thanks
Hi. For the beginning replace the potentiometer and calibrate it, replace the lambda and check the cold start valve, replace the injectors and that should make things better. Concerning stalling at the junction, that's an issue which for, if everything is in order, I believe that the ECU is the culprit. But, before replacing the ECU check the whole system for its nominal values for each of the parts and then, then you can try with the ECU. This should help you solve many issues on your system.
@@mercedeske Thank you for your quick reply
@@BullvaMy pleasure.
Thank you very much for your video. I've recently bought a w124 200E with m102 engine. What I noticed is that sometimes when I start the engine it has an acceleration and seems the correct mode of operation because then when for example the AC is on, it is capable of compensating and maintaining the correct rpm. But sometimes there is no acceleration at the start of the engine and is more difficult to turn on. Furthermore is not capable of compensating the RPM when AC is on. I checked the idle control valve and is working. Seems like the electronics don't get the rpm signal to adjust the idle valve (I've also changed the ECU with no success. Any suggestion? Thanks
Have you replaced the potentiometer?
No I didn't I'll try this. Thank you.
I've replaced the potentiometer but nothing changed.
I don't know if it is correlated or not but after some weeks I bought the car and started using it, It happened three or four times to smell something like a burning cable from the AC vent. All the ventilation system is working well. I don't know if it could be or not but I suspect that some cables from ECU to the KE-Jetronic system that passes inside the ventilation are damaged. I said that because one of the last I smelled it I stopped the car and tried to find out where the smell came out. And it wasn't in the engine compartment but in the cabin filter compartment. This happened some months ago. Since then no more smell but even no more idle stabilizing.
Don't know what happened, but it's been running flawlessly for two weeks!
Do you have links where to buy the tools ?
Everything you need from the special tools is torx set if you have to adjust the fuel pressure regulator(4,5mm allen/torx 27). Everything else are just common tools. Fine tune-a pressure gauge and a multimeter. You can find everything on ebay.
Hello is there a way to send you an email? I am dealing with a KE Jetronic Problem for the past 8 months and nobody can find a solution.
Of course there is the way 😉Write me either on my fb group fix your Mercedes(you have the link on my banner) or on schilleryu@yahoo.com
Hello , what is the role of damper cage?
It has to absorb the vibrations from the pump in order for the fuel pump buzzing sound not to spread on the chassis and not to be heard in the interior of the car.
@@mercedeske so if I don’t hear the fuel pump buzzing I don’t need to replace the damper cage ?
But why he have 3 pipes ?
1 to fuel pump
2 to accumulator
3 to fuel tank
@@guyrozen4506 The fuel starts from the pump and flows to through the filter into the fuel distributor. The fuel accumulator has to absorb the vibrations from the pump. All three parts have to get fuel.
If you hear the pump, then it's bad. The sound is something like a V-belt, that loud. That's the indication that the fuel pump is bad.
@@mercedeske
Sorry but still don’t understand you.
The fuel accumulator need to absorb the vibration?
So what is the role of damper cage ?
Hello my friend how are you? I follow all your videos and I wanted to ask you if you know how to repair the fuel pump relay of a Mercedes 230E year 1981, since in my country it is not available as a spare part. From now many thanks and greetings!!
Hello, I am fine, thanks. How did you come to that that you have a bad fuel pump relay?
@@mercedeske Hello, I know because the fuel pump continues to work beyond the fact that the vehicle does not start.
@@diegovelazquez9213 Try to start the car. Remove the relay, put a wire in the contacts 7&8 and if the car starts, then it's the fuel pump. If the fuel pump runs, then it's not the pump relay, check the coolant temperature sensor or the cold start valve.
@@mercedeske Thanks, but the problem I have is that I put the car in contact (without starting) and the pump continues to send fuel continuously. Before in a few seconds it stopped
If it doesn't stop for about a second then it's not good.
A quick question, would you have any ideas as to what may cause a long crank / start time, hot or cold , it’s not too long but longer than I’d expect 👍
If it's always like that check if your timing is okay. The rotor must face the groove on its housing. If that's not the case, then turn CLOCKWISE the crankshaft until the nail faces the OT mark. For that purpose remove the distributor cap. So, your timing is set when the OT mark(TDC) is aligned with the nail on the other side, as well as the rotor which then must face the groove of its housing facing the cylinder 1. If that's not a case but it has a slight tolerance then you will have to do it manually by unscrewing the allen and moving the whole housing clockwise or counterclockwise. If your timing is set then maybe you have some pressure loss somewhere(the seal ring on the plunger) or you have leaky injectors or a cold start valve(many possibilities).
Is it possible to not to have an O2 sensor? Mine does not have one and I was told at the local MB garage that it wasn't fitted with it originally. It's a 1989 w124 300e 12v. Tia
Yes, it is possible but if you have a catalyst then you have lambda as well. It's easy to check, if it's present it is located underneath in the exhaust pipe before the catalyst.
@@mercedeske Thank you, it doesnt have a catalyc converter, but I was not 100% sure that it come from the fsctory like that or that some one removed it as I can see that the exhaust was replaced.
My idle is all over the place, 92 300SL
Replace the sensors, primarily the o2 sensor and the potentiometer.
Bonjour j’ai trouvé la soupape de ralenti au lieu d’être fixer sur la pipe d’admission elle est au dessus du filtre à huile question :: avec le multimètre en mode continuité (bio bio) quand je teste à la prise il y a deus broches et quand je teste les broches une par une à la masse voiture sa sonne (bip) et quand je teste aussi la fiche avec testeur une broche avec autre broche aussi fait (bip) peu tu me dire si c’est normal qu’il y’a continuité à la masse et aussi entre deux broches ???? Merci
Dites-moi de quelle année est votre Mercedes et de quel type ?
@@mercedeske elle est du 01/02/1988 type 20102414 châssis WBD2010241F453842
@@mercedeske moteur 102962
Concernant la valve de contrôle de ralenti, la seule chose que je peux vous dire est que le fil supérieur (si vous en avez 2) va à l'ECU et le fil inférieur au relais de protection contre les surtensions (fil bleu/rouge). Au ralenti lorsque le moteur est chaud, vous devez obtenir entre 4 et 6,5 V
En faite cette pièce est comme un interrupteur qui laisse passer le négatif ou pas
I love you..
I will understand this as a compliment😂
@@mercedeske
praise that is so deep .. introduce me Rifi from Indonesia Medan North Sumatra .. I'm just a rural mechanic..🙏
Nice to hear that. I am from Serbia, Knjazevac🙏Many warm greetings from me.
@@mercedeske
Nice to meet you.. I hope you will always be healthy .. and thank you for the knowledge you give .. don't forget me..😃🙏🙏 I will tell this to my mechanical friend in Indonesia, and I will say you are a good person ..🙏🙏
Thanks for your kind words, I hope you will be healthy as well and I wish you that from my heart. I am glad to have good persons around me, such as you are🙏🙏🙏
Ima previse snimaka na engleskom daj nesto na nas jezik
Imaš isto ovo na srpskom, do detalja.
Well done on a very informative video. I recently purchased a W126 300SE and on the advise of my mechanic I had to replace the EHA valve. Good to know how the fuel system works. Thank you again!
Thanks. The EHA rarely goes bad. Very seldom are the situations when it has to be replaced.
@@mercedeske كلش
Well good video
Thanks a lot 😃😉🙂
Do you know if its the same w123 230e?
That's the same engine, same power. It can be only the first generation of the KE
Very nice video
Thank you so much
My pleasure 😉😃🍀
Thanks...this is so helpful
My pleasure 😊
Hi, I bought a 190e 2.6 and it doesn't run, so
- I put a brand new battery and replaced the distributor cap and Ik now that my electricals work so I tried starting it and nothing happened unless I sprayed the intake with quick start, and the engine fires up then dies immediately afterwards
So my guess was to replace the fuel distributor with a used one that I got from a parts car (the guy said it ran before parting) because I was getting no fuel to the injector lines and the car still didn't fire up so..
I replaced the old fuel pumps with 2 brand new bosch fuel pumps thinking the fuel pressure is too low in order to start
And my car still doesn't run :(
Can you help me out plz
You think the fuel distributor is faulty or can it be any other problem
Hi. At first check if the other fuel distributor is compatible with your car. Concerning the old fuel distributor, when you deflect the sensor plate, does it slides easy downwards? Find a pressure gauge and measure the pressures, you should get working pressure 5.7-5.9bar, the pressure from the pump 6.1-6.3bar. How many kms/miles has the car on the clock? If it's more than 150k km/100k miles, check the injectors.
@@mercedeske my car has 157k on it I get no fuel to the injector line, and when I have the car ignition ON I believe I feel some resistance when I push the airflow plate down
Unscrew all the lines and make the pump running continuously, don't touch the sensor, no fuel must be flowing out of the ports. Afterwards deflect the sensor plate a bit and observe if you get the same quantity of fuel. If you don't get the same quantity, then you should clean the fuel distributor.
@@mercedeske so I did what you asked, and I get no fuel either way :(
Sorry to hear that. It's the distributor. You will have to buy the kit and to wash it in the ultrasonic bath.
Ex ce llen ce
I'm having long cranking issues when the engine sits for several hours. It starts fine when it's warm.
Test the fuel accumulator and the injectors.
The injectors are almost new. The accumulator looks old. Is it better to get a new URO parts one or used Mercedes one?
Buy from Bosch new one on eBay. This is something you are going to replace each 150k km/about 100k miles
Thank you!
My pleasure 😊 Happy Mercedesing 😃
hello, I am very grateful for this video, thank you very much, greetings from Kazakhstan Karaganda I have w201 3 cars, your videos are very useful. Unfortunately, I do not know English and it is difficult for me to understand it, but I will try to make an audio translation. Your work is priceless!) thank you again.
I'm glad I could be of help. Just watch the videos on your desktop computer and choose the translation in your own language! Happy Mercedesing!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge - it is much appreciated.
Thanks