Thank you for all your very informative and educating videos of the K-Jet system! Unfortunatly there isn't many around these days that have any knowlegde about these old simply but yet so complicated systems! There is many of us out here in the world that are forever thankful to you sharing your knowlegde!😎😎😎
I was given zero help years back when i asked a well known company about kjetronic, so thought ok ill teach myself and show others, i hate people thinking they they hold all the magical information.
Thank you! My 1978 Porsche 928 had been sitting for 5 months, since I brought it home in non running condition. As soon as I replaced that o-ring in the FD fuel pressure valve, it fired and idled at the turn of the key. This resulted in my first drive 😊 - albeit up and down the driveway, but a first drive none the less. Thanks again for making and posting the video.
Hola, le escribo desde España. Enhorabuena por su canal, en estos días es dificil encontrar mecanicos entendidos en esta inyección K-jetronic y los mecánicos aficionados nos encontramos con grandes problemas para mantener vivos nuestros coches clásicos. Le expongo mi problema, soy propietario de un Mercedes W123 230E de 1982 y últimamente está dando problemas para arrancar en caliente después de haberlo dejado parado durante 45/60 minutos, arranca pero no mantiene el ralentí y se para. Hace poco lo cambié la bomba de gasolina, acumulador de presión, filtro de gasolina, inyectores, válvula de aire adicional y todos los tubos de caucho y el coche funcionaba perfectamente, pero hace un par de días empezó con este problema de arranque en caliente, aunque después de dar arranque varias veces y mantener el acelerador pisado a fondo al cabo de un par de minutos se estabiliza el ralentí y de nuevo funciona como si nada pasase. Usted me podría indicar alguna posible causa de este fallo ó como buscar el diagnóstico? Le estaría inmensamente agradecido, y le repito la enhorabuena. Saludos desde España. Fernando Alonso.
Thank you. Very informative and spot on. As it relates to the pressure relief valve at the Centre of the 16mm is an Allen bolt if you should disassemble to will find a small O-ring that often deteriorates also. I have also from experience found that if the O-ring that sit at the base of the fuel distributor/metering head is bad it can run into issues. I found also that a spring sits behind the plunger in some application was missing from mine.
Thanks so much for all of these video's, very very helpful. I''ve just picked up a 1990 16V and it is tricky to start when cold but does eventually fire after 5 or so cycle's of the ignition. I've just ordered some O rings for the fuel pressure regulator so hopefully that cures it.
Videos are great - Keep them coming. You make it seem easy, but I've been struggling with my K Jet for over a year now. Car will not start. It's an 88 Lotus Esprit. System Pressure is sitting at 6.2 bar (cold) and control pressure is at 2.5 bar. both are within cold spec. both fuel distributor and WUR have been rebuild by SpecialTauto. had to add shims to pressure regulator to get up to the 6.2 bar system pressure. On crank, will not start. if I push down on the sensor plate and force fuel into the cylinders, it will start and immediately die, so I suspect it's something on the fuel delivery side. Both fuel pumps check out and filters are new. Aux air, cold start valve, and Thermal Time are okay as well. All I can think is it may be the mixture screw on the sensor plate arm, but I have not been able to find any info on how to set this from scratch. Any insight you have would be very appreciated!
Hoping this video helps me with the issues ive been having with my 1985 audi 90. Its been a nightmare trying to find someone to work on the k-jet system. Looks like ill have to give it ago myself.
thanks for your videos, i think your excellent could you sort this problem for me please, constantly running fuel pump, had new relay,still the same,would it cause an over fuel, how do i sort it ,could it be blocked filter next to the pump at the back of car, oh nearly forgot it is a mk2 golf gti 1.8 16 valve 1988, i suppose your too busy to acknowledge this but would be nice of you if you could.thanks again.
Great content and very helpful. I have a new issue with random low pressure to injectors at half psi. I found that if I manually play with the air flap back and forth they eventually get full power and car runs good. After a short drive they half pressure and car will die under load with gas. Any tips would be helpful. I had New injectors,New fuel pump and distributor. Thanks Mike - Dallas Texas
I have watched this video a few times from end to end, and being a numpty in West Wiltshire, I am still a little confused as to my problem 🤨. 1.8 8v (Scirocco). New lift pump and relay as they went ping - Starts on the button, immediately dies. Keep foot on accelerator and hold at 2,000 for a minute or two, settles to idle and warm starts are easy. Tried with disconnect of 5th injector, never starts then. Just been watching the WUR from 17th December this year, drat that is for warm start problems - injector replacement time? Plunger free as a bird, no varnish - not looking for free advice, if you can point to another video would be useful! I'm back to my barn Saturday. Thank you. 😄
West Wiltshire you say 🤔 im North Wiltshire Check fuel system pressure to see what pressure is in the metering head, sounds like its trying to run on the 5th injector and also could be the CO adjustment needing adjustment
My WUR Problem turned out to be the vacuum hose on top of WUR going to intake 3 way Tee on manifold was Kaputsa, I missed Three of the best Fall Months of Driving to find out this was the problem !
I did replace the fuel dist. inline filter and was abut to buy a Digital electronic WUR for $549 Modern upgrade and watching the installation video I noticed I never checked all the Vacuum Connections on the WUR and that was all that was wrong !@@GreyGooseRestorations
As of my knowledge there is a same kind of mini filter on the incoming fuel banjo into metering head from fuel filter in the back, that can clog up and cause issues
True, these should have been removed at the first service as it was there purely to catch any debris from factory assembly, obviously not all cars went to the dealer for servicing so many have this filter still
Thanks, i could be one of the internal seals failed with lets way to much fuel in so it could be in need to a rebuild, i do these if your interested, contact me via my Facebook page
Great video, as always! Maybe you could help pinpoint the problem with my 16v scirocco, car starts great when cold although idles a bit high, but as it warms up and the WUR engages the engine just dies, won't start once it's warm and if it does won't react to throttle at all, sounds almost as it misfires and when the throttle is released it springs back again for a slight moment. I've also noted the metering plate has a lot of resistance once it warms up so i'm guessing the intake air just doesn't lift it. Everything on the car is new, FD rebuilt, only parts i haven't touched is the 5th injector and WUR.
Thanks, 99% thats the wur, most likely the filter gauze is partially blocked if not blocked so when the heating element comes away from the spring your getting system pressure for control pressure so you'll have 5bar or so pushing the control plunger (air plate) down
I'd advise against using the brass injectors with any cast iron fuel metering head as I've recently worked out that they cause hot start issues as proven on my own car and 2 others
There's a few to be honest Coolant sensors Idle valve Throttle switch Cold enrichment valve Deceleration Cut off Valve Thermostat sensor Oil temperature Oil pressure x2 5th injector Warm up regulator Ignition Distributor Think thats all the main engine ones
Just found your channel, binging your videos.,new subscriber.that said. I just bought a 924 turbo. Iy starts ok but has brought idle that fluctuate in revs, but as soon as I give it gas, it almost dies and backfires. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance from NZ
hey at 0:53 you say to put the 3mm allen key into somewhere. Is this the hole between fuel distributor and rubber air intake? I'm trying to diagnose a problem on my 924 so positioned differently in the engine bay. This is to adjust the air/fuel mix correct?
Great video, could You help me with advice : golf mk1 89’, 1.8 JH engine with ke-jetronic. Every now and then the engine starts like on two cylinders with poor idle and backfire and I have to drive through speedbump to make it work corectly. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold or warm. It only happens when I start the car - never when its running. Would You help me where to look? The car drived like this for years but previous owned didn’t care - he drove it rarely.
Hey mate, thanks for all the video you make about it. Been stuggling with the 86 GTi EV of a friend. No fuel to the injectors: injector disconnected bearly full coming out. Fuel pomp and filter brand new (had problem with the pump some miles ago), filter out the inlet of de banjo bolt on the K-jet. I disconnected the return pipe to te fuel filter, by-passing the pump relay and move the plate up from the kjet, no fuel going back to te reservoir. Could the plunger been blocked ? (red about the fuel accumulator, but if fuel is coming to the K-jet, i cannot be it). Could you gave me your opinion ? Thx
Hi, if you have some form of fuel into the metering head then most likely its an issue inside the metering head, could be gummed up ports or blocked fuel slits
nice work, do you know if the injectors are all the same ? because on, the same high, they have diferent codes...i like to you on turbo aplication... is ther an chart or something?cheers
All injectors flow the same as they are just a tap, the only difference is fitment some are long like ford and porsche etc Check out the injector testing video i did and you can see how much fuel the injectors will flow
I have a Audi WR Quattro that's been stood since 2007, I've rebuild the engine and replaced all the fuel lines/filter and fitted a new pump. It starts and runs for about 3-4 seconds and dies, can you advise what's most likely wrong? Thanks
Hi, it sounds like its starting on the cold start injector, try unplugging it and note any difference in starting, if it is that and the pump etc it all new then I'd test the fuel pressures at the metering head, after that it would be a metering head issue most likely
Best would be to fresh fuel and main filter, take the main feed off the metering head and prime/flush that with clean fuel Then put it back on and prime the metering head, it may work or it may be blocked, try and see if the air flap will raise and lower easily too
Hi just seen you vidio very interesting.i have a 2.8i ford capri and I have a strange problem. Car starts from cold fine but when it's hot I do have a starting issue. When hot if I turn it off leave for 10 mins or so it starts fine but if I turn it off for 30 mins or more it starts but two or three cylinders flood but always starts. I have replaced the injectors as I thought they might be dripping ( no fix) replaced the temp sensor still the same. Just had the car MOT and it's running rich so not sure if this is the problem but any help would be appreciated. Many thanks Rob
Hi Rob, it could be a system pressure issue being either the metering head and/or WUR or an issue with the fuel pump/Accumulator. Contact me via my Facebook page if you need any more help
Oh okay, think I'm screwed then, I have this issue + missfire on the 4th cylinder and the injectors have been recently replaced (+ spark plugs, rotor,...). I was thinking too of bad hydraulic lifter causing bad airflow into the 4th cylinder. Is that possible ? Anyways, thank you for your answer and videos ! @@GreyGooseRestorations
@andrebarbiaux2640 it possibly could be a lifter but more likely a fueling issue, i rebuild and test metering head as well as other K-jetronic parts, if you need contact me via my Facebook page 👍
It could be leaking from the fuel plunger meaning the body/plunger is worn as they are a matched pair machined with a clearance fit to move and also act as a seal, it could also be the body itself leaking via one or more of the housing bolts
I have one of these, the fuel pin that come through the center and contacts a roller is stuck in and my father and I are trying to free the pin up, can you help??? Haven’t removed the pin for fear of damaging small fragile oe parts
The best way is to use WD40 or another penetrant fluid and spray it through the top centre connection (control pressure) and let it soak through Its hard to remove but can be done
Grey, I have a 1982 BMW e21 US version. The engine was professionally re-built and all fuel injection componets were replaced as well. The problem I am having is on start-up........the engine randomly surges rpms and will not idle. When I removed the #1 fuel injector, i noticed tha the fuel squirts out but not spraying out. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
@MK2GolfStories so the fuel pump relay is an new 67 one but pump runs all the time By the ecu there is a small 2 pin plug, disconnect and see if it still runs (pump that is)
Hi,do you know if there is a seal inside the pressure regulator also?i have problems with a k jet on a saab 900 ,i have fuel pressure coming out on the small line on the pressure regulator going up to the wur..(returnline from wur)..
@@GreyGooseRestorations thank you 👍do you know the dimensions on the inside seal?took the regulator apart this morning and it dont look like a regular o-ring..
I have a new fuel pump under the seat, but when the engine is started, the sound it makes is roaring, is that an indication that the pressure is too high?
@@GreyGooseRestorations I'm too confused because I don't have a pressure gauge for the metering head, can you explain the difference between the pressure that is too high on the metering head and the pressure that is too low on the metering head? maybe it can help me to adjust the regulator Thank You
@creativeenginechannel7182 to be honest thats very hard to do, if the system pressure is too low then the car will have starting issues, high system pressure won't effect much bar upping the outputs.
If the control pressure is too high and prevents starting, then i would pull out the small guaze filter in the WUR. Its in the inlet port then fit a new press in filter inside the banjo bolt. If its still high then it will be time to rebuild the WUR
Thank you for all your very informative and educating videos of the K-Jet system! Unfortunatly there isn't many around these days that have any knowlegde about these old simply but yet so complicated systems! There is many of us out here in the world that are forever thankful to you sharing your knowlegde!😎😎😎
I was given zero help years back when i asked a well known company about kjetronic, so thought ok ill teach myself and show others, i hate people thinking they they hold all the magical information.
Thank you! My 1978 Porsche 928 had been sitting for 5 months, since I brought it home in non running condition. As soon as I replaced that o-ring in the FD fuel pressure valve, it fired and idled at the turn of the key. This resulted in my first drive 😊 - albeit up and down the driveway, but a first drive none the less. Thanks again for making and posting the video.
Wicked, love seeing comments like this 👍
where did you buy the o-ring from?
@amoredesign any online supplier can supply the seals
You just helped with my cold start issues, the filter was full of debris... now starts perfectly. Scirocco JH engine. Cheers!
Sweeet, this is the exact reason i make these videos 👍😁
I will continue to see the videos that you put out, great expensive knowledge can share
Thanks
Interesting as ever mate. Just a small remark, where you say CO2, I think it should be CO.
@matto4253 noted 👍
Hola, le escribo desde España.
Enhorabuena por su canal, en estos días es dificil encontrar mecanicos entendidos en esta inyección K-jetronic y los mecánicos aficionados nos encontramos con grandes problemas para mantener vivos nuestros coches clásicos.
Le expongo mi problema, soy propietario de un Mercedes W123 230E de 1982 y últimamente está dando problemas para arrancar en caliente después de haberlo dejado parado durante 45/60 minutos, arranca pero no mantiene el ralentí y se para.
Hace poco lo cambié la bomba de gasolina, acumulador de presión, filtro de gasolina, inyectores, válvula de aire adicional y todos los tubos de caucho y el coche funcionaba perfectamente, pero hace un par de días empezó con este problema de arranque en caliente, aunque después de dar arranque varias veces y mantener el acelerador pisado a fondo al cabo de un par de minutos se estabiliza el ralentí y de nuevo funciona como si nada pasase.
Usted me podría indicar alguna posible causa de este fallo ó como buscar el diagnóstico?
Le estaría inmensamente agradecido, y le repito la enhorabuena.
Saludos desde España.
Fernando Alonso.
Thank you. Very informative and spot on. As it relates to the pressure relief valve at the Centre of the 16mm is an Allen bolt if you should disassemble to will find a small O-ring that often deteriorates also. I have also from experience found that if the O-ring that sit at the base of the fuel distributor/metering head is bad it can run into issues. I found also that a spring sits behind the plunger in some application was missing from mine.
Thanks so much for all of these video's, very very helpful. I''ve just picked up a 1990 16V and it is tricky to start when cold but does eventually fire after 5 or so cycle's of the ignition. I've just ordered some O rings for the fuel pressure regulator so hopefully that cures it.
Videos are great - Keep them coming. You make it seem easy, but I've been struggling with my K Jet for over a year now. Car will not start. It's an 88 Lotus Esprit. System Pressure is sitting at 6.2 bar (cold) and control pressure is at 2.5 bar. both are within cold spec. both fuel distributor and WUR have been rebuild by SpecialTauto. had to add shims to pressure regulator to get up to the 6.2 bar system pressure. On crank, will not start. if I push down on the sensor plate and force fuel into the cylinders, it will start and immediately die, so I suspect it's something on the fuel delivery side. Both fuel pumps check out and filters are new. Aux air, cold start valve, and Thermal Time are okay as well. All I can think is it may be the mixture screw on the sensor plate arm, but I have not been able to find any info on how to set this from scratch. Any insight you have would be very appreciated!
Thanks, message me via WhatsApp or my Facebook page and I can help with the settings
Yet another amazingly infotmative video. Thank you so much.
Thanks 👍
Hoping this video helps me with the issues ive been having with my 1985 audi 90. Its been a nightmare trying to find someone to work on the k-jet system. Looks like ill have to give it ago myself.
I feel ya man
thanks for your videos, i think your excellent could you sort this problem for me please, constantly running fuel pump, had new relay,still the same,would it cause an over fuel, how do i sort it ,could it be blocked filter next to the pump at the back of car, oh nearly forgot it is a mk2 golf gti 1.8 16 valve 1988, i suppose your too busy to acknowledge this but would be nice of you if you could.thanks again.
Thanks, if is it constantly running with ignition on?
Great content and very helpful. I have a new issue with random low pressure to injectors at half psi. I found that if I manually play with the air flap back and forth they eventually get full power and car runs good. After a short drive they half pressure and car will die under load with gas. Any tips would be helpful.
I had New injectors,New fuel pump and distributor.
Thanks
Mike - Dallas Texas
Thank you for the usefull advice!!!
I have watched this video a few times from end to end, and being a numpty in West Wiltshire, I am still a little confused as to my problem 🤨. 1.8 8v (Scirocco). New lift pump and relay as they went ping - Starts on the button, immediately dies. Keep foot on accelerator and hold at 2,000 for a minute or two, settles to idle and warm starts are easy. Tried with disconnect of 5th injector, never starts then. Just been watching the WUR from 17th December this year, drat that is for warm start problems - injector replacement time? Plunger free as a bird, no varnish - not looking for free advice, if you can point to another video would be useful! I'm back to my barn Saturday. Thank you. 😄
West Wiltshire you say 🤔 im North Wiltshire
Check fuel system pressure to see what pressure is in the metering head, sounds like its trying to run on the 5th injector and also could be the CO adjustment needing adjustment
Another great vid. Thanks
No problems 👍
My WUR Problem turned out to be the vacuum hose on top of WUR going to intake 3 way Tee on manifold was Kaputsa, I missed Three of the best Fall Months of Driving to find out this was the problem !
Sucks to miss out on good driving times but its good the problem is fixed
I did replace the fuel dist. inline filter and was abut to buy a Digital electronic WUR for $549 Modern upgrade and watching the installation video I noticed I never checked all the Vacuum Connections on the WUR and that was all that was wrong !@@GreyGooseRestorations
Hi, where should I buy that mini banjo bolt filter? I cannot find anything similar on entire internet 😅
Have a look on Mr injector UK im sure they have something
As of my knowledge there is a same kind of mini filter on the incoming fuel banjo into metering head from fuel filter in the back, that can clog up and cause issues
True, these should have been removed at the first service as it was there purely to catch any debris from factory assembly, obviously not all cars went to the dealer for servicing so many have this filter still
Great walkthrough. Wondered if you have any advice for a K Jet for a MK2 that’s flooding 3 cylinders with fuel? :-) thank you!
Thanks, i could be one of the internal seals failed with lets way to much fuel in so it could be in need to a rebuild, i do these if your interested, contact me via my Facebook page
Thank you!
Great job. K jet issues on a M110 280 E engine
Hi mate, thanks for the videos, are you any good on the Ford 6 cylinder unit, like on the xr4is etc?
Hi, no worries, yes there all much the same as the Mercedes/Delorean ones
I have a Porsche 928 each hole has a tiny tube like filter can I run without the filter ? Awesome video btw thank you !
Hi and thanks, its best to replace those filters but you can run without them
Great video, as always! Maybe you could help pinpoint the problem with my 16v scirocco, car starts great when cold although idles a bit high, but as it warms up and the WUR engages the engine just dies, won't start once it's warm and if it does won't react to throttle at all, sounds almost as it misfires and when the throttle is released it springs back again for a slight moment. I've also noted the metering plate has a lot of resistance once it warms up so i'm guessing the intake air just doesn't lift it. Everything on the car is new, FD rebuilt, only parts i haven't touched is the 5th injector and WUR.
Thanks, 99% thats the wur, most likely the filter gauze is partially blocked if not blocked so when the heating element comes away from the spring your getting system pressure for control pressure so you'll have 5bar or so pushing the control plunger (air plate) down
Thank you!
hi thanks for the info, could you let me know where you get the brass injectors from please. chas
I'd advise against using the brass injectors with any cast iron fuel metering head as I've recently worked out that they cause hot start issues as proven on my own car and 2 others
Thanks for the info, bought a 5 cylinder VW engine with k-tronic but no wiring, what does all the electrical plugs connect to?
There's a few to be honest
Coolant sensors
Idle valve
Throttle switch
Cold enrichment valve
Deceleration Cut off Valve
Thermostat sensor
Oil temperature
Oil pressure x2
5th injector
Warm up regulator
Ignition Distributor
Think thats all the main engine ones
Thank you for the video, can you please give me the part number for the Mercedes fuel injector?
Bosch number is 0437502047
Just found your channel, binging your videos.,new subscriber.that said. I just bought a 924 turbo. Iy starts ok but has brought idle that fluctuate in revs, but as soon as I give it gas, it almost dies and backfires. Any thoughts??
Thanks in advance from NZ
Hi and thanks
Could be an air leak or fueling issues, first thing i would do is test the fuel pressures as that'll point you in the right direction
@@GreyGooseRestorations Thanks for that...just read my original post...auto correct is shocking..lol
hey at 0:53 you say to put the 3mm allen key into somewhere. Is this the hole between fuel distributor and rubber air intake? I'm trying to diagnose a problem on my 924 so positioned differently in the engine bay. This is to adjust the air/fuel mix correct?
Yes thats correct, small hole on the air metering unit between the fuel distributor and intake boot, yup adjusts mixture at idle
How about fuel flooding issue any tips, maybe this has been covered in another video?
That is another potential issue yes, most commonly when the 5th injector fails or the injectors leak, i think I've touched on those in other videos
Great video, could You help me with advice : golf mk1 89’, 1.8 JH engine with ke-jetronic. Every now and then the engine starts like on two cylinders with poor idle and backfire and I have to drive through speedbump to make it work corectly. It doesn’t matter if the engine is cold or warm. It only happens when I start the car - never when its running. Would You help me where to look? The car drived like this for years but previous owned didn’t care - he drove it rarely.
Hey mate, thanks for all the video you make about it. Been stuggling with the 86 GTi EV of a friend. No fuel to the injectors: injector disconnected bearly full coming out. Fuel pomp and filter brand new (had problem with the pump some miles ago), filter out the inlet of de banjo bolt on the K-jet. I disconnected the return pipe to te fuel filter, by-passing the pump relay and move the plate up from the kjet, no fuel going back to te reservoir. Could the plunger been blocked ? (red about the fuel accumulator, but if fuel is coming to the K-jet, i cannot be it). Could you gave me your opinion ? Thx
Hi, if you have some form of fuel into the metering head then most likely its an issue inside the metering head, could be gummed up ports or blocked fuel slits
Thanks, going to investigate that further and take it appart, cheers@@GreyGooseRestorations
nice work, do you know if the injectors are all the same ? because on, the same high, they have diferent codes...i like to you on turbo aplication... is ther an chart or something?cheers
All injectors flow the same as they are just a tap, the only difference is fitment some are long like ford and porsche etc
Check out the injector testing video i did and you can see how much fuel the injectors will flow
Thank you, i will order ones for Ford Saab and Volvo, they are cheaper than the vw audi ones
Good Ole cis grew up working them
Fantastic system...once its all set and functional
I have a Audi WR Quattro that's been stood since 2007, I've rebuild the engine and replaced all the fuel lines/filter and fitted a new pump. It starts and runs for about 3-4 seconds and dies, can you advise what's most likely wrong? Thanks
Hi, it sounds like its starting on the cold start injector, try unplugging it and note any difference in starting, if it is that and the pump etc it all new then I'd test the fuel pressures at the metering head, after that it would be a metering head issue most likely
Any advice for starting a vehicle that hasn’t run for 17years? 1980 924 Turbo. Wondering if it can be flushed somehow?
Best would be to fresh fuel and main filter, take the main feed off the metering head and prime/flush that with clean fuel
Then put it back on and prime the metering head, it may work or it may be blocked, try and see if the air flap will raise and lower easily too
Regarding the 7mm i.d. / 2mm cross o-ring on the FPR, would a Viton o-ring work?
Yes, viton has very high resistance to fuels and oils
so on the Control pressure regulator can cause a lean mixture and run bad or not start
Hi just seen you vidio very interesting.i have a 2.8i ford capri and I have a strange problem. Car starts from cold fine but when it's hot I do have a starting issue. When hot if I turn it off leave for 10 mins or so it starts fine but if I turn it off for 30 mins or more it starts but two or three cylinders flood but always starts. I have replaced the injectors as I thought they might be dripping ( no fix) replaced the temp sensor still the same. Just had the car MOT and it's running rich so not sure if this is the problem but any help would be appreciated. Many thanks Rob
Hi Rob, it could be a system pressure issue being either the metering head and/or WUR or an issue with the fuel pump/Accumulator.
Contact me via my Facebook page if you need any more help
Do you know anything that would cause great engine running when cold but it gets so sluggish when warm
Most likely the WUR as that increases control pressure when warm and too high control pressure will cause poor running
Legend..great video thankyou
Hello, does the low rpm missfire issue only comes from the injectors or can it be related to the metering head ?
Hi, 9 times out of 10 its the injectors but it is possible for the metering head to casue this fault too
Oh okay, think I'm screwed then, I have this issue + missfire on the 4th cylinder and the injectors have been recently replaced (+ spark plugs, rotor,...). I was thinking too of bad hydraulic lifter causing bad airflow into the 4th cylinder. Is that possible ? Anyways, thank you for your answer and videos ! @@GreyGooseRestorations
@andrebarbiaux2640 it possibly could be a lifter but more likely a fueling issue, i rebuild and test metering head as well as other K-jetronic parts, if you need contact me via my Facebook page 👍
1:15 should I do this with car warm or cold? Also do I need to push the 3mm key down when turning?
Hot or cold either or doesn't matter, no the 3mm should turn without any downward force
@@GreyGooseRestorations Thanks a lot!
Hiya hope you can help me. i have a 924 2.0 non turbo from 1980, I noticed a few times that i had fuel in my airbox. any ideas what could cause that?
It could be leaking from the fuel plunger meaning the body/plunger is worn as they are a matched pair machined with a clearance fit to move and also act as a seal, it could also be the body itself leaking via one or more of the housing bolts
I have one of these, the fuel pin that come through the center and contacts a roller is stuck in and my father and I are trying to free the pin up, can you help??? Haven’t removed the pin for fear of damaging small fragile oe parts
The best way is to use WD40 or another penetrant fluid and spray it through the top centre connection (control pressure) and let it soak through
Its hard to remove but can be done
Hi, my mk2 16v won't start without priming but I do so the metering head starts to make winning noise.
Please can you help?
Could be the pressure valve seal preventing system pressure building up
Grey,
I have a 1982 BMW e21 US version. The engine was professionally re-built and all fuel injection componets were replaced as well. The problem I am having is on start-up........the engine randomly surges rpms and will not idle. When I removed the #1 fuel injector, i noticed tha the fuel squirts out but not spraying out. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, do you mean squirts as in poor spray pattern or as in not much fuel?
Are the injectors brand new items and not 'cleaned' old ones?
No spray pattern, it kind of just runs out and yes, injectors are all new.
@VitoSpillone if that's the case then it's looking at the fuel distributor to ensure it's got system pressure etc
alright pal, my relay isnt cutting off and the fuel pump is running constantly .. any ideas ?!
So with the ignition on the fuel pump is running constantly
@@GreyGooseRestorations Thats right. donst just buzz for a couple of seconds, its buzzing constantly
@@GreyGooseRestorations i should mention i've already replaced the relay
@MK2GolfStories check the relay should be blue 67 relay far right lower row if later car
@MK2GolfStories so the fuel pump relay is an new 67 one but pump runs all the time
By the ecu there is a small 2 pin plug, disconnect and see if it still runs (pump that is)
Hi,do you know if there is a seal inside the pressure regulator also?i have problems with a k jet on a saab 900 ,i have fuel pressure coming out on the small line on the pressure regulator going up to the wur..(returnline from wur)..
Yes the fuel pressure regulator has 3 seals in total
@@GreyGooseRestorations thank you 👍do you know the dimensions on the inside seal?took the regulator apart this morning and it dont look like a regular o-ring..
@strm99 the main one is 7x2 the others are a odd size that I can't remember currently
@@GreyGooseRestorationsok,thanks!is there a k- jet dealer in uk or Europe you can recommend?
@strm99 only place I recommend is missingparts.de
a bad spray pattern can cause a rich mixture I had that happen on my Rabbit
You can adjust the fuel dist clean out everything rebuild the fuel dist vws bms benzs had this
Yup, common misconceptions is that the metering heads dont flow enough fuel, but they can be adjusted, stock 16v for example to can flow 200+ ml/min
I have a new fuel pump under the seat, but when the engine is started, the sound it makes is roaring, is that an indication that the pressure is too high?
Not necessarily, there should be a nice strong buzz, high noise could be fuel starvation potentially
can you make a video about how the low fuel pressure system is on the jetronic?, and how the symptoms occur, thank you
@creativeenginechannel7182 ill see what i can do
@@GreyGooseRestorations I'm too confused because I don't have a pressure gauge for the metering head, can you explain the difference between the pressure that is too high on the metering head and the pressure that is too low on the metering head?
maybe it can help me to adjust the regulator
Thank You
@creativeenginechannel7182 to be honest thats very hard to do, if the system pressure is too low then the car will have starting issues, high system pressure won't effect much bar upping the outputs.
What if control pressure is very high and car won’t start.
If the control pressure is too high and prevents starting, then i would pull out the small guaze filter in the WUR. Its in the inlet port then fit a new press in filter inside the banjo bolt. If its still high then it will be time to rebuild the WUR
Thank you!
I am working on 1981 380 sl Mercedes are they similar.
If the Germans could make it more complicated they would.
thank you !