Thank you for going over this. Car has left me stranded multiple times as it's my daily. Will be doing that this weekend. If you're ever worried about someone stealing the vette, I recommend installing a fuel kill switch somewhere that is not obvious.
So I watched the VATS video Thanks very helpful. I have a 99 FRC and need to go down the same path. Have you disabled the active handling? If so can you explain how as the parts to keep these systems alive have become discontinued.
I deleted the active handling and the ABS since they are actuated by the same pump. I removed the ABS pump completely and ran new brake lines straight to the wheel. I also added a manual proportioning valve in the rear brake line to make sure the rear didn't lock up first. That left the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on so I removed the bulbs from the instrument cluster. Pulled all the fuses that had to do with ABS and eventually pulled all the wiring. The only message I get after removing all this is "service vehicle soon" when I first start it and pushing the reset button makes that go away until the next start.
@@TomPeters-d4x I disconnected everything that hooked to the EBCM including the data line. I did have the lights on the dash but I just removed the bulbs. I didn't get any messages on the DIC about servicing the ABS or traction control.
Is there any reason at all not to just put the resistor in at the BCM? There was an abrupt edit in the beginning where you started to say something about this and then jump-cut to the fuel pump being cut off(?) I have seen a couple videos of people bridging the purple/white & white/black wires at the clip where they connect to the BCM. Also, someone on Corvette Forum recommended I cut those wires leading back to the ignition switch entirely after inserting my resistor at the BCM, so that if for some reason the resistor on the key started working with the sensors in the key tumbler, they wouldn't run in parallel, or cancel each other out, or some damned thing. Any thoughts?
That was an abrupt edit but I was talking about shorting across the theft relay to get it to crank but if the VATS was still unhappy it would shut off fuel. I mentioned putting the resistor at the BCM at 12:30. That is an excellent place to put it if you want and definitely do cut the wires going back to the key. I'm not sure what the wire colors are but I would make sure to look at a wiring schematic before doing it.
So i got the resistors and multimeter, i measured 2.35 on the 20k setting on my multimeter. Does that mean 2350k? I just don't want to mess anything up.
On the 20k setting that would be 2.35k which is 2350 ohms. Out of the 15 possible resistors the C5 uses #8 is 2.37k and that's the one you want. When you add the K to the end that means times 1000 so 2350K would be 2,350,000 ohms.
Hello, I have a problem with my automatic C5, it starts fine but when I put D and press the accelerator, it turns off, the engine dies, it won't let me move the C5 more than 2 miles.
@@xpsgarageI’m getting this message but, my car won’t even start, I hear the usual click of the relay on the passenger side, but once you turn the key nothings happens and the message of “pull the key 10 seconds appears. I want to mention I replace the steering column with a z06 one that may be my problem or not?😅
@@Spxrc That's kind of weird since that sounds like 2 different problems. The pull key is the column lock and no crank could be VATS. Do you have an LCM5 module installed?
Thank you for going over this. Car has left me stranded multiple times as it's my daily. Will be doing that this weekend.
If you're ever worried about someone stealing the vette, I recommend installing a fuel kill switch somewhere that is not obvious.
Good idea on the kill switch.
Helpful video. Thanks. Seems like my c5 is having some issues with this. Looks like a pain taking that dash off 🥴
Honestly compared to some cars I've worked on taking the dash top off of the C5 is easy.
I’ve been dealing with this issue for about a year hopefully this will get it all fixed up.
So I watched the VATS video Thanks very helpful. I have a 99 FRC and need to go down the same path. Have you disabled the active handling? If so can you explain how as the parts to keep these systems alive have become discontinued.
I deleted the active handling and the ABS since they are actuated by the same pump. I removed the ABS pump completely and ran new brake lines straight to the wheel. I also added a manual proportioning valve in the rear brake line to make sure the rear didn't lock up first. That left the ABS and BRAKE lights in the dash on so I removed the bulbs from the instrument cluster. Pulled all the fuses that had to do with ABS and eventually pulled all the wiring. The only message I get after removing all this is "service vehicle soon" when I first start it and pushing the reset button makes that go away until the next start.
@@xpsgarage Did you remove the ebcm from the CAN buss or is the light on on the dash?
@@TomPeters-d4x I disconnected everything that hooked to the EBCM including the data line. I did have the lights on the dash but I just removed the bulbs. I didn't get any messages on the DIC about servicing the ABS or traction control.
Thanks for the help
good information. thank you for sharing.
You're welcome!
Is there any reason at all not to just put the resistor in at the BCM? There was an abrupt edit in the beginning where you started to say something about this and then jump-cut to the fuel pump being cut off(?)
I have seen a couple videos of people bridging the purple/white & white/black wires at the clip where they connect to the BCM. Also, someone on Corvette Forum recommended I cut those wires leading back to the ignition switch entirely after inserting my resistor at the BCM, so that if for some reason the resistor on the key started working with the sensors in the key tumbler, they wouldn't run in parallel, or cancel each other out, or some damned thing. Any thoughts?
That was an abrupt edit but I was talking about shorting across the theft relay to get it to crank but if the VATS was still unhappy it would shut off fuel. I mentioned putting the resistor at the BCM at 12:30. That is an excellent place to put it if you want and definitely do cut the wires going back to the key. I'm not sure what the wire colors are but I would make sure to look at a wiring schematic before doing it.
What do you think of that accelerator pedal?
I like it much better than the original plastic one. Good for heel toe shifting too.
So i got the resistors and multimeter, i measured 2.35 on the 20k setting on my multimeter. Does that mean 2350k? I just don't want to mess anything up.
On the 20k setting that would be 2.35k which is 2350 ohms. Out of the 15 possible resistors the C5 uses #8 is 2.37k and that's the one you want. When you add the K to the end that means times 1000 so 2350K would be 2,350,000 ohms.
Ahhhh ok. Thank you for explaining. @xpsgarage
I bought a pack of resistors off amazon and they have a 1 mil but not a 2 mil.
@@TJsVette Did you just check the resistors in the pack with your meter to find one that matches?
Hello, I have a problem with my automatic C5, it starts fine but when I put D and press the accelerator, it turns off, the engine dies, it won't let me move the C5 more than 2 miles.
That sounds like a column lock issue. Are you getting a pull key and wait 10 seconds message?
@@xpsgarageI’m getting this message but, my car won’t even start, I hear the usual click of the relay on the passenger side, but once you turn the key nothings happens and the message of “pull the key 10 seconds appears. I want to mention I replace the steering column with a z06 one that may be my problem or not?😅
@@Spxrc That's kind of weird since that sounds like 2 different problems. The pull key is the column lock and no crank could be VATS. Do you have an LCM5 module installed?
@@xpsgarage no I do not have it, now it cranks but not start I check and the problem is no spark
I don’t know is any of those system cuts spark
Should show it not just talk about it my bro:/, what if I got vats bypassed with a eco tune on eBay ?
The deal is bro that I did this mod year ago so I couldn't show exactly how. I don't know what an Ebay eco tune is.