BRO seriously the only video I’ve seen with an actual hack that you don’t need a master key thank you for actually solving the problem and saving me a bunch of money you’re awesome lol
I imagine because it does not appeal to the mainstream audience. To specific of a group and liking. I think you need the BS videos like "how to wash your windows" and "how to paint you rims" type of videos to have a big following. It is OK, I like this group we have :)
Hahah, yea The more stupid the video is, in the same format as everyone else the more appeal is gets. It makes some sense, I guess one has to figure that is the way the world is going, Mindless! Hey On those Pass Key resistor key's, if you have anyone in area who re-flashes the PCM, You can delete that pesky bugger that way too. I should "uncheck it" next time I reprogram the PCM in my car. The 94-5 F body Y body or B body has to be the easiest/ cheapest vehicle to get DIY re flashing equipment for. Not worth it you don't own one of course. With a cheap ALDL cable, anything parameter can be changed for 30 or less with freeware.
Eric, I'm gonna be very surprised if your channel doesn't easily go to the top of professional mechanics. Your skill level is unsurpassed as is your video editing skills. Other mechanics are viewing and enjoying your videos, as are the DIYers out there like me, that while I can't do all the jobs you do of course, I can enjoy following along as you make things enjoyable to watch. A telltale may be if you go a few days without uploading a video, people are starting to get edgy. Highest marks for your channel !
So I told you last weekend I was putting in a VATS bypass on my 1990 vette. I dropped the to panels and some yahoo over the years done a little splice and dicing! Now I’m back here see what I can find out without having to drop the steering column. Yes, I’m a lady, 59 to boot! Not giving up. Just double checking
There is no "part number". Simply measure the resistance with an ohm meter, then go to an electronics store and buy a resistor with a close value. You may have to buy two resistors to get the proper resistance, in SERIES.
Nice video.FWIW, when I do these, I cut the lock cylinder side of the connection rather than the other. If it ever needs to be repaired correctly, the new lock cylinder comes with the length of wire and male connector anyway. Therefore, as far as wiring goes, future repair is simply unplugging/removal of resistor assembly and plugging in new lock cylinder. Added bonus - this way also allows you to build your resistor assembly on the bench rather than working under the dashboard!
Dr. O -- I always like to watch your videos as they are so educational and informative. However there is another fix that is somewhat faster and less involved and more permanent than adding the resistors in a bypass circuit. Whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START position, 12 volt power is fed through the clutch interlock switch or PRNDL automatic transmission neutral start switch. If the clutch pedal is depressed or the automatic transmission is in neutral / park, 12 volt power continues to the control side of the theft deterrent relay. It passes through the relay control coil and onto the central timer module on a yellow / blue wire. If the central timer module receives the correct resistance from the ignition key it grounds this circuit which completes the starting circuit at the theft deterrent relay from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. You could just permanently ground the yellow/blue wire at the central timer module and avoid having to match resistors and solder. The safety features of the clutch interlock or PRNDL safety switch would still be enabled. Just another option.
Hey Bud I was wondering if you know why the key would stay stuck to the postion before start and not turn back? It started to make this funny starting sound like the starter was about to go up. I tryed to start it 1 more time it cranked alittle and didn't start. I added the jump box because it sounded very weak. When I tryed to start the key stuck Security light was coming on than going off at first. Now it doesn't show at all Will only crank like 2 times that seems like a dead battery even when hooked to a jump box. Why is there no Security light and key won't turn all the way back? Thank you
Thank u saved me.3 keys later....this only thing that worked....i owe u 1 brother....smooth....fixed for 13$...just super awsome on my 02 c5 brick red Corvette
Excellent video! I had to do the exact same procedure in my 96 Impala SS. One day after work the Impala wouldn't crank. I went back in the shop and fabricated a resistor combo that closely matched my ignition key. Spliced the resistors in where the connector is under the steering column and BINGO! I did that maybe 10 years ago and the Impala still starts without any issues.
I know this post is old but I just had this issue with my 1999 Buick LeSaber. Thank you for the video it was extremely helpful because a shop fix of close to $500 on a car almost 20 years old is tough to justify, I will add that there is a fix with fewer steps, please let me explain. I was confused and only half understood about the resistance chip on the key and I was discouraged initially looking up fixes because they all included the voltage/ohm reader, which not being strong on electronics was extremely discouraging. So I finally watched through the videos and understood the problem completely, two ****ing wires that run to the ignition tumbler, and it is, yes a common problem with this system, it seems very rarely there is actually a problem with the VATS module, all my research showed this to be accurate. I have found that there is a process that requires the volt meter (if you take it to a locksmith they should have a tool that grabs the resistance) and there is a variance (usually) of only 15 different resistances that your key could have, a google search can bring up a chart that is listed 1 through 15 and its ohm rating and variance in -/+ resistance for that system. So finding the resistance is step one, step two I went to the Source electronics store and bought a pack of resistors with a wide variance and since I don't know how the stupid color ring markings work, my most time consuming task was matching a resistor manually with my reader to find one I needed ( key was #5: resistance read 1129 with a -/+ of 1085/1195, I used a resistor or 1180: brown, red, red, gold). After successfully determining the the resistor I need, I removed the panel under the dash attached to the fuse box and located the Orange wire which inside has two white wires and followed it to its base, to save having to cut anything I took my new resistor (which has an inch of lead on either end) and bent it and shoved both ends into the metal ends of each white wire which held it firmly. Boom! Car started! So I took it out, cut down the ends a little and folded them and reinserted into the ends of each white wire where they go into the terminal, which went in firm and secured it with electrical tape. It now runs and in the pack of resistors ($6.99 for 84, 42 of each resistance from 100- 300K) I took out the second identical resistor of which I used and secured it in my car, If I hit a bump hard enough to dislodge it (unlikely) I have the know how to take out three screws and slap another in. This was a quicker "redneck fix" that no one offered on any video and I understand that because the need to solder the wires is the ultimate "secure" fix, but I hate cutting wires on any harness in a car unless absolutely necessary and in my eyes as soon as I have to splice/solder anything, it is no longer a "quick" fix, this problem with a volt meter, a pack of resistors, and knowledge how to read the color markings could make this a literal five minute fix. I want to help as you all have and I will be posting this exact explanation to the top five posts about this in hopes to help the lazy and would love feedback from the authors of these videos and others, I will not make my own video as I have no channel and anyone searching probably wont find it, so I would like to ad this tidbit of my time saving experience as it is the fix I was looking for originally and isn't as overwhelming. I will add as I have seem many authors have, this is just an explanation and no one is telling you to bypass this system, nothing is better then a certified professional assisting in these repairs and I hope anyone reading read through till now because yes, be mindful of the airbag wire, even though you aren't cutting anything take out the fuse for the airbag, safety first. Thank you and again I hope I could add some extra help to a problem we will face for a few more years yet. Dustin
The '91 Reatta has VATS and many have had to do this bypass. Thankfully- my '89 doesn't. All 4 years have RKE, and '88-'90 VATS consists of a lockout module, that kills power to the fuel pump and ignition if the locked doors are opened without the RKE or door key, triggering the alarm (lights flash, horn sounds). This was a very common failure, mostly the column wiring at the tilt point. Here is some more information on this- and a Tutorial, put together by Reatta owners and Members of the AACA Reatta Division- Your video is a very nice addition to this, a video always helps! Nice to see Ms. Hana, not so camera shy! That's how I got my start in automotive repair, being an Apprentice from age 10 to 16, then working like Josh until I was 27. Now- I just enjoy retirement and DIY. Eric- you and a few others on TH-cam are very charitable, taking time to make videos, thoroughly explain stuff, a give sound advice; you are much appreciated, thank you. Here is the link to more VATS info- reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/62-electrical-system/other-electrical/232-vats-passkey-system-bypass-instructions
Eric! You are so right! I had the same issue on my 1998 Monti Carlo. I live in northern N.Y. and needed a temp repair (no resistors). Took the Spare key, cut off the plug leading to IGN switch and soldered the wires on the plug to the key! Temporary, but it works! Thanks again! Been following you for about two years.
Ducky1521, Official TH-cam Commentator - He can compliment anybody he wants, his compliment wasn't creepy or perverted. Take your SJW feminist hate speech back to California where it belongs.
At the dealership that I work for we had a tool called the interrogator you unplug the column plugged i KNMNM in oh when you just dial to that number and then you were able to diagnose the
Whoa, that audio system is the bomb! Its like those radios you could take out and with you back the day. The owner can pull up to the beach and bring his tunes with him!
And he writes.....Eric I had an 89 S-10 Blazer with that exact same system. Right after I got it, I threw the 2k resistor in the glove box....ready for the day it would save my bacon. But you know I drove that little red truck with the big 4.3 daily for 26 years, every place I went, almost 300,000.00 miles worth and when they finally hauled it away for cash on the pound because the body would tilt going around corners and the frame was almost folding in half....salt baby salt....Michigan winters....the bacon...ah...resistor was still in the glove box! I guess I just got lucky! Great video. You take care now ya hear! Jpol.
Eric - Probably 5 other guys said this already and I don't know if you even read these comments. But, if you ever do one of these again, cut the harness on the lock cylinder side, unplug the remainder and take it over to the bench, solder in your resistor, then take it back and plug it in. Leaves the dash harness whole, you solder at the bench (no burnt carpet for you), and if someone ever does want it to work again, they are going to replace the lock cyl which comes with a new harness anyhow. Cheers, love the channel, keep up the hard work!
So many videos I have searched to try and find how to bypass with a resistor gave me almost 20 hours of frustration and wasted TH-cam videos on idiots! Not only did you guide me to fix the problem and actually bypass it correctly you save me a lot of time 10 cool points And two thumbs up
WOWZA! ERIC with the video editing software skills (didn't even bump the camera getting back in either by the look of it). ALMOST A SEAMLESS TRANSITION 12:07
@@SouthMainAuto Got a question for you and no option to message you, so I found a comment of yours and replied to it. Got a issue with a 1999 Silverado. Died going down the road and now only clicks when attempting to start. Battery is good and the security light is on. All the gauges light back up after the key is returned to RUN position from START.
Tell me will it work on a 92 allante while it's in theft disengaged mode. I came out of a store went to start it and it wouldn't start and said theft deterant disabled wait 7 minutes I have tried repeatedly and checked everything outside under the hood parking gear also have another key neither of them would start the car horn and all works but when I disengage it car still will not start
One thing for next time, I would suggest cutting the connector on the key side, then you can connect the resistors at the bench. That way all you have to do is go under the dash and plug it in. One other thing I have done is put a label on the wire with the resistor values for future reference, just in case they go bad. Hope I made sense, once again, great video as always and I appreciate the time and effort you put into making the videos.
I doubt that the replacement resistor will ever go bad. The reasons that these VAT systems fail is in the wiring that goes down the steering column or in the ignition cylinder, not the resistor. There is very little voltage or amps in that circuit, hence the thin but fragile wiring. You can always measure the resistance in your original ignition key if you need it. Or you can write down the resistance value of the chip in the ignition key in your owner's manual, so you can easily find it if you need it.
I bought a similar resistor kit online just so I could get the power locks to function on a remote start I installed in a Jeep Liberty. Jeep requires very different specific resistance for the lock and unlock trigger outputs. Those resistor kits are great to keep around! Always finding uses for them! Great video Eric! Had to be a challenge to video it under a corvette dash!
All u gotta do is wrap wires to each side of key use electrical tape then tape it in a secure place it’s gonna show theft lights but will still start up no lag
Pro Tip... if you cut the wire on the key cylinder side instead of the factory side then you can make your connections outside of the car and just clip it in the car. Also you won’t have to worry about losing the the factory side connector if you ever do replace the key cylinder
Dr. O, it was great meeting you and Mrs. O when my wife and I stopped by your shop on our recent road trip. BTW, the fall color was a bit of a disappointment but upstate New York and Vermont rock for their scenery. I understand why you like it up there. I hope you shoot a good one with the black powder rifle. Keep the videos coming, you have the best repair channel on the net. Congrats on 50k subscribers, 100k should be coming soon.
It was good seeing you Joe. Next time you are around give me the heads up and we can do lunch. I am in NC right now on a hunt and had a good first day. My computer is being a brat so I am having a hard time get a movie made for that...
Hi Miss Hanna. I like seeing the older cars, so you got some brownie points for bringing us along on this one. I sure enjoyed the commentary along the way, your sense of humor cracks me up.
Just a thought... Rather than cut wires on the harness side, I would cut on the ignition switch side. The wires to the ignition lock side are part of the switch. That way is someone replaced the lock it would be good to go with no cut to the wires.
Lol. I been watching your stuff for about a year on and off. My car finally did this to me and I finally found this video aaaaafter I went ahead and did this fix.
I had to do this on my wife's 03 Grand Am. The resistance to those is 2200 for anyone who needs to and the PASS module is under the passenger kick panel. Little extra FYI. Great vids Eric....
Solder the wires to the resistor in the key itself (spare key) and tuck the whole thing up under the dash. Works great and you don't have to go find a resistor.
This is of course mandatory for a remote start system... Made a remote start/alarm/door lock/window control install diagram if anyone's interested. It's a viper on a 93 convertible, but good info for other years/models... Fun fact: In 93, Corvette was the first car with optional automatic door lock/unlock, via a antenna loop in the drivers door which sensed the wireless remote. Though you did still have to take the key out of your pocket and do the manual thing to start it...
Hey Eric, how does one diagnose a 2006 dodge ram 1500 that just flashes and will not go into 4 wheel drive. I have learned a lot from you and I would appreciate very much continuing my automotive education with SOUTH MAIN AUTO. Thank you for being a great teacher. Your videos are great and you explain things in a clear and simple way. Thank you so much for your help. Don in Jersey
You’re a lifesaver. I believe I can use this method on a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix since I drive one. I’ve had two times having to reprogram a key. I enjoyed the video 😎👍😁
Thank you for sharing the Buick motor mount replacement, not sure if mine is shot.2011 Buick Enclave, makes a grunting noise only on light acceleration, after I'm going no noise.
I also have a 91 Camaro I am getting spark and fuel pump is coming on security light does come on I noticed the injectors are not opening bc it will start off of starting fluid
Just for curiosity reasons, why do you use the exact reading from the key vs the corresponding value in the VATS spec? There are 15 of them, this one should be a 1.8k I believe. Not there is anything wrong with your method of playing in the tolerance as long as it starts that is all that matters. If you are unable to locate the value from the key for any reason, like it is damaged, you can make a plugable selector to insert where you pulled the connector and rotate values until one of the 15 works.
Wouldn't have worked all the time. He mentioned that it was intermittent. So when it acts up, the resistor would take over. When it didn't act up? The system would read the key resistor + the resistor. So the security system would still trigger and cause it not to start.
this is exactly what I did on my Camaro to get it running again, but just a tip for anyone watching, instead of cutting the wires from the wiring harness, just cut the pigtail that has the orange sleeve over it, crimp your resistors to those wires and plug it in to the harness connector that was cut in this video. the wire in the orange sleeve comes with a new lock cylinder if you ever decide to replace that side of the harness.
Hannah is so lucky working for a cool guy like you. And if she is interested, she can learn a lot about car repair. Seems like a dream job to me :-) Greetings from Norway
I remember whenI had a 96 Pontiac G6. When I was a soldier in the barracks in the parking lot a 99 model another soldier had accidentally lock his keys in his trunk when taking stuff out. I saw this happen in the parking lot and since I had an older model of the same car and tried my key fob on his car and it worked! That surprised both of us but at least he was able to get his keys locked in the trunk.
I believe it happened. I used to be a tech at a chevy dealer. While I was there I bought a new Chevy 1500, 1998. I had some work done in the pro shop due to being a conversion pkg and under warranty. Somehow my keys and the pro shop's managers keys got mixed up. Our key fobs worked on eachothers trucks but the keys wouldn't start the others. His keys would turn the dash lights on but wouldn't allow it to run.
I just had this done to my Caddy. Only we didn't have any resistors, instead we used the spare key. We trimmed the wires back and put the connector back on, then ground the key down a little bit to help it fit in the connector, put they key in the connector, put on some electrical tape it worked. Just in case anyone is ever in a bind.
yep,,,had to do that to my 91` Vett.. but secirity light was not flashing ..so for a hack like me It took a bit to diagnose.. in other words I removed the starter.. bench tested it ...and was pissed ..LOL ..17% on ebay for a pre made plug in resister btpass
290 comments! Wow. No one is going to read this one. But anyhow, super fun video. When u said blow things up, I was reminded of the time u slide hammered to DEATH the Dodge Minivan front axle, when u could have just popped the ball joint loose. Epic fail. Of all your hundreds of videos its nice to c that even the maestro goofs up once in a while! Love the channel!!
Love your video's, really like you are helping the young get into the trade. Highly recommend a beer on Sunday afternoon, and get those resistors into bags with the values on them, makes life a lot easier and its quite relaxing :)
Eric, great video. My wife has a 93 C4, and had a very similar issue with it not starting. Back at the time, we took it to a guy locally that is a Vette specialist, and he had the vehicle running in a matter of an hour. It sat at a Chevy dealership back then (2008/2009), because they said it was the BCM, and they were trying to locate one. I heard of this Vette guy from someone at work, and we had it towed to his shop. I just have one question: With the VATS module essentially "always seeing a key in the ignition with this bypass", I wonder if it affects the vehicle's security system from locking the car and I'm assuming as most GM vehicles do, disabling the vehicle from starting. The wife's remote hasn't worked in her car for years, and we just manually lock/unlock the doors. Anyway, just curious about it as it came to my mind as I was watching the video. Great video from you as always!! I enjoy following your channel!!
Hey Eric. I had an 89 Chevy S10 Blazer as a daily driver and used the same keys, mine and misses P's for over 26 years. It had the same security system, key with chip and never once did I have a problem. I do remember that once every year or so I'd see my or her keys laying on the work bench and while thinking of the next project, I'd see that the metal on those two little wires was getting tarnished looking. So I'd grab a little scotch bright and give the keys a couple of swipes to shine them up again. I did this out of habit and after watching your video, I now realize that I was simply maintaining that resistor key so it would make good contact. I drove that vehicle so much, that I wore the teeth down on the key so bad, that I could start the car and remove the key with the ignition switch still on and drive the vehicle, then shut it off by hand without the key. Apparently once the module saw the resistance and let the car start, it never rechecked it until the next start because I still needed the key for it to crank even though I could turn the ignition switch without it. If I had known about the resistor trick back then, I would have done just that and thrown away the key and started it by hand. The alarm and key fob's all still worked until the day they came and towed it away for scrap. Its really a shame because the body basically disappeared from Michigan rust, but the darn thing still ran great with 200k miles on it. It's when I felt the body actually tip sideways on a fast corner, that I figured it needed more than its third floor board replacement. That's when I traded the old girl in. Ah memories. Yes it was red and black and I still have the large decal that went completely across the rear tailgate saying CHEVROLET in silver lettering on black. Wonder what that could be worth? Oh, The key still hangs I my tool my tool box to this day. Jpol.
I LOVE YOU MAN! YOU KNOW YOUR SHIT I'VE LEARNED SO MUCH FROM YOU😂😉. HOW TO TROUBLE SHOOT & FIX THEM.KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING!!!! DETROIT'S MOTOR CITY STEVE
Sometimes on older vehicles when you cannot get the parts anymore due to be obsolete you do what you got to do. Also back in the day people drove without seatbelts and airbags.
Seat belt warning lights don't MATTER, as long as you wear your seat belts, which is still the best protection you can give yourself. As for the airbag warning lights, I had one once, the problem was a corroded sensor behind the front bumper. If you get such a warning light, that is the FIRST part that you should replace.
I always liked 'Home of the Full Gorilla" for a motto. Then you could put a little graphic on the screen when tightening things for the different gorilla strengths to use like 1/2 Gorilla, 1/4 Gorilla, 1/8th Gorilla, Baby Gorilla and Full Gorilla. That would be hilarious! Should be on T-shirts and coffee mugs..."South Main Auto - Home of the Full Gorilla".
Great video I got an Oldsmobile w same issue fixing it tomorrow Thanks for the refresher course I couldn’t remember if it mattered which way the resistor went I guess not Thanks👍👍
Thank you for the information. May I suggest taking your non compliant key, inserting into ignition, turn it to the run position for 1 hour then start your car? Let me know if it works.
GM used 11 resistor values you have to get within 10% of the original value. I am sure there is a chart of the values on the net. I found the values on this subject 20 years ago in a motor mag. As always thumbs up.
Two of my Cars have/had that System, both had worn Lock Cylinders that permit(ed) me to pull the Key out, and as long as I don't lock the Ignition Switch, I can stop and restart the Engine without putting the Key back in. I know for sure one had a Remote Starter in it, and the other probably had one, at one time, and the wires to the Engine Modules, had a Resistor added to allow the Remote to work.
BRO seriously the only video I’ve seen with an actual hack that you don’t need a master key thank you for actually solving the problem and saving me a bunch of money you’re awesome lol
Found a lot of these VATS fixes on TH-cam, this is the only one I've found that shows what and how to do the change.
I love the fact that you are a mentoring Hanna. She is learning from the best person. Good for you Hanna!!!!!!!!!
I really don't understand why this channel doesn't have over a million subs.
I imagine because it does not appeal to the mainstream audience. To specific of a group and liking. I think you need the BS videos like "how to wash your windows" and "how to paint you rims" type of videos to have a big following. It is OK, I like this group we have :)
Are you mad bro.?
john CR i'm not mad no
Hahah, yea The more stupid the video is, in the same format as everyone else the more appeal is gets. It makes some sense, I guess one has to figure that is the way the world is going, Mindless! Hey On those Pass Key resistor key's, if you have anyone in area who re-flashes the PCM, You can delete that pesky bugger that way too. I should "uncheck it" next time I reprogram the PCM in my car. The 94-5 F body Y body or B body has to be the easiest/ cheapest vehicle to get DIY re flashing equipment for. Not worth it you don't own one of course. With a cheap ALDL cable, anything parameter can be changed for 30 or less with freeware.
Eric, I'm gonna be very surprised if your channel doesn't easily go to the top of professional mechanics. Your skill level is unsurpassed as is your video editing skills. Other mechanics are viewing and enjoying your videos, as are the DIYers out there like me, that while I can't do all the jobs you do of course, I can enjoy following along as you make things enjoyable to watch. A telltale may be if you go a few days without uploading a video, people are starting to get edgy. Highest marks for your channel !
So I told you last weekend I was putting in a VATS bypass on my 1990 vette. I dropped the to panels and some yahoo over the years done a little splice and dicing! Now I’m back here see what I can find out without having to drop the steering column. Yes, I’m a lady, 59 to boot! Not giving up. Just double checking
smartest guy on youtube. best mechanic Ive seen period. honest as the day is long.
I almost bought a $200 starter when all I needed was a $3 resistor set. 😂
TH-cam is a godsend
that system has prevented more legal owners from starting their then ever prevented thefts. Radio Shack $3 fix
ykmalachi Than*
N
ykmalachi
Resister part # please.
There is no "part number". Simply measure the resistance with an
ohm meter, then go to an electronics store and buy a resistor with
a close value. You may have to buy two resistors to get the proper
resistance, in SERIES.
I actually fixed it properly, REPLACED THE BCM, done.
The clutch pedal prevents most car thefts these days anyway.
The only person I even know who can't drive a manual is an in-law... and he has no driver license.
👍😂😂😂🤞
Ha! Ain't that the truth! That's a keen observation.
ykmalachi millennial anti-theft device.
What's a clutch?
Nice video.FWIW, when I do these, I cut the lock cylinder side of the connection rather than the other. If it ever needs to be repaired correctly, the new lock cylinder comes with the length of wire and male connector anyway. Therefore, as far as wiring goes, future repair is simply unplugging/removal of resistor assembly and plugging in new lock cylinder. Added bonus - this way also allows you to build your resistor assembly on the bench rather than working under the dashboard!
Andrew White honestly, with as kinky as those security systems were, it is better off being bypassed
Exactly!!
@@TheCrystalGlow he didnt say not to bypass, he said to bypass on the other side of the connector as to not cut into the vehicle harness
I do it the same way
Very, very nice! Do your method involves taking the lock cylinder out of the car to wire in the resistor?
Dr. O -- I always like to watch your videos as they are so educational and informative. However there is another fix that is somewhat faster and less involved and more permanent than adding the resistors in a bypass circuit.
Whenever the ignition switch is in the RUN or START position, 12 volt power is fed through the clutch interlock switch or PRNDL automatic transmission neutral start switch. If the clutch pedal is depressed or the automatic transmission is in neutral / park, 12 volt power continues to the control side of the theft deterrent relay. It passes through the relay control coil and onto the central timer module on a yellow / blue wire.
If the central timer module receives the correct resistance from the ignition key it grounds this circuit which completes the starting circuit at the theft deterrent relay from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. You could just permanently ground the yellow/blue wire at the central timer module and avoid having to match resistors and solder. The safety features of the clutch interlock or PRNDL safety switch would still be enabled. Just another option.
The only place I've ever heard this fix! Hope a central timer module is easy access!
Hey Bud I was wondering if you know why the key would stay stuck to the postion before start and not turn back? It started to make this funny starting sound like the starter was about to go up. I tryed to start it 1 more time it cranked alittle and didn't start. I added the jump box because it sounded very weak. When I tryed to start the key stuck
Security light was coming on than going off at first. Now it doesn't show at all
Will only crank like 2 times that seems like a dead battery even when hooked to a jump box. Why is there no Security light and key won't turn all the way back? Thank you
Thank u saved me.3 keys later....this only thing that worked....i owe u 1 brother....smooth....fixed for 13$...just super awsome on my 02 c5 brick red Corvette
Excellent video! I had to do the exact same procedure in my 96 Impala SS. One day after work the Impala wouldn't crank. I went back in the shop and fabricated a resistor combo that closely matched my ignition key. Spliced the resistors in where the connector is under the steering column and BINGO! I did that maybe 10 years ago and the Impala still starts without any issues.
Does this work on a 2001 chevy monte carlos ss 3.8l
@@troysmith3054 Can't say for sure, but I'm assuming it would.
I can't get it to work
I know this post is old but I just had this issue with my 1999 Buick LeSaber. Thank you for the video it was extremely helpful because a shop fix of close to $500 on a car almost 20 years old is tough to justify, I will add that there is a fix with fewer steps, please let me explain. I was confused and only half understood about the resistance chip on the key and I was discouraged initially looking up fixes because they all included the voltage/ohm reader, which not being strong on electronics was extremely discouraging. So I finally watched through the videos and understood the problem completely, two ****ing wires that run to the ignition tumbler, and it is, yes a common problem with this system, it seems very rarely there is actually a problem with the VATS module, all my research showed this to be accurate. I have found that there is a process that requires the volt meter (if you take it to a locksmith they should have a tool that grabs the resistance) and there is a variance (usually) of only 15 different resistances that your key could have, a google search can bring up a chart that is listed 1 through 15 and its ohm rating and variance in -/+ resistance for that system. So finding the resistance is step one, step two I went to the Source electronics store and bought a pack of resistors with a wide variance and since I don't know how the stupid color ring markings work, my most time consuming task was matching a resistor manually with my reader to find one I needed ( key was #5: resistance read 1129 with a -/+ of 1085/1195, I used a resistor or 1180: brown, red, red, gold). After successfully determining the the resistor I need, I removed the panel under the dash attached to the fuse box and located the Orange wire which inside has two white wires and followed it to its base, to save having to cut anything I took my new resistor (which has an inch of lead on either end) and bent it and shoved both ends into the metal ends of each white wire which held it firmly. Boom! Car started! So I took it out, cut down the ends a little and folded them and reinserted into the ends of each white wire where they go into the terminal, which went in firm and secured it with electrical tape. It now runs and in the pack of resistors ($6.99 for 84, 42 of each resistance from 100- 300K) I took out the second identical resistor of which I used and secured it in my car, If I hit a bump hard enough to dislodge it (unlikely) I have the know how to take out three screws and slap another in. This was a quicker "redneck fix" that no one offered on any video and I understand that because the need to solder the wires is the ultimate "secure" fix, but I hate cutting wires on any harness in a car unless absolutely necessary and in my eyes as soon as I have to splice/solder anything, it is no longer a "quick" fix, this problem with a volt meter, a pack of resistors, and knowledge how to read the color markings could make this a literal five minute fix. I want to help as you all have and I will be posting this exact explanation to the top five posts about this in hopes to help the lazy and would love feedback from the authors of these videos and others, I will not make my own video as I have no channel and anyone searching probably wont find it, so I would like to ad this tidbit of my time saving experience as it is the fix I was looking for originally and isn't as overwhelming. I will add as I have seem many authors have, this is just an explanation and no one is telling you to bypass this system, nothing is better then a certified professional assisting in these repairs and I hope anyone reading read through till now because yes, be mindful of the airbag wire, even though you aren't cutting anything take out the fuse for the airbag, safety first. Thank you and again I hope I could add some extra help to a problem we will face for a few more years yet.
Dustin
The '91 Reatta has VATS and many have had to do this bypass. Thankfully- my '89 doesn't. All 4 years have RKE, and '88-'90 VATS consists of a lockout module, that kills power to the fuel pump and ignition if the locked doors are opened without the RKE or door key, triggering the alarm (lights flash, horn sounds). This was a very common failure, mostly the column wiring at the tilt point. Here is some more information on this- and a Tutorial, put together by Reatta owners and Members of the AACA Reatta Division- Your video is a very nice addition to this, a video always helps! Nice to see Ms. Hana, not so camera shy! That's how I got my start in automotive repair, being an Apprentice from age 10 to 16, then working like Josh until I was 27. Now- I just enjoy retirement and DIY. Eric- you and a few others on TH-cam are very charitable, taking time to make videos, thoroughly explain stuff, a give sound advice; you are much appreciated, thank you. Here is the link to more VATS info- reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/62-electrical-system/other-electrical/232-vats-passkey-system-bypass-instructions
Eric! You are so right! I had the same issue on my 1998 Monti Carlo. I live in northern N.Y. and needed a temp repair (no resistors). Took the Spare key, cut off the plug leading to IGN switch and soldered the wires on the plug to the key! Temporary, but it works! Thanks again! Been following you for about two years.
Hannah stole the show in this video.! She have such a beautiful smile .!
@Ducky1521 30's ? That dude is probably way older. CREEPY AF.
Ducky1521, Official TH-cam Commentator - He can compliment anybody he wants, his compliment wasn't creepy or perverted. Take your SJW feminist hate speech back to California where it belongs.
Ducky1521 why you hating? I see no Ill comment made at all.
Yeah he’s just a piece of crap that likes shitting on someone else, makes him feel better!
Hannah is famous.
Your air hammer is infamous!
Nice video SMA.
Gotta have your daily dose of Eric O humor. Makes everything right in the world.
Lol thanks
At the dealership that I work for we had a tool called the interrogator you unplug the column plugged i KNMNM in oh when you just dial to that number and then you were able to diagnose the
@@johncomito4718 753³
Always a better time with Hannah or Mrs O making an appearance
Whoa, that audio system is the bomb! Its like those radios you could take out and with you back the day. The owner can pull up to the beach and bring his tunes with him!
(Boom Box) Must also carry 12v battery.
And he writes.....Eric I had an 89 S-10 Blazer with that exact same system. Right after I got it, I threw the 2k resistor in the glove box....ready for the day it would save my bacon. But you know I drove that little red truck with the big 4.3 daily for 26 years, every place I went, almost 300,000.00 miles worth and when they finally hauled it away for cash on the pound because the body would tilt going around corners and the frame was almost folding in half....salt baby salt....Michigan winters....the bacon...ah...resistor was still in the glove box! I guess I just got lucky! Great video. You take care now ya hear! Jpol.
Good video, I knew they were resistors, never knew you could modify in that way, Hannah has a nice smile as well.
Eric - Probably 5 other guys said this already and I don't know if you even read these comments. But, if you ever do one of these again, cut the harness on the lock cylinder side, unplug the remainder and take it over to the bench, solder in your resistor, then take it back and plug it in. Leaves the dash harness whole, you solder at the bench (no burnt carpet for you), and if someone ever does want it to work again, they are going to replace the lock cyl which comes with a new harness anyhow. Cheers, love the channel, keep up the hard work!
Did this to my old LeSabre 2 years ago....still working fine.
So many videos I have searched to try and find how to bypass with a resistor gave me almost 20 hours of frustration and wasted TH-cam videos on idiots! Not only did you guide me to fix the problem and actually bypass it correctly you save me a lot of time 10 cool points And two thumbs up
Hey Eric... Good vid AGAIN! Hanna is gorgeous your'e lucky in SMA we just have Dave!
WOWZA! ERIC with the video editing software skills (didn't even bump the camera getting back in either by the look of it).
ALMOST A SEAMLESS TRANSITION 12:07
skillz haha
@@SouthMainAuto Got a question for you and no option to message you, so I found a comment of yours and replied to it. Got a issue with a 1999 Silverado. Died going down the road and now only clicks when attempting to start. Battery is good and the security light is on. All the gauges light back up after the key is returned to RUN position from START.
Best auto repair channel...period! Eric you do an amazing job👍👍👏👏👏
Thanks!
Tell me will it work on a 92 allante while it's in theft disengaged mode. I came out of a store went to start it and it wouldn't start and said theft deterant disabled wait 7 minutes I have tried repeatedly and checked everything outside under the hood parking gear also have another key neither of them would start the car horn and all works but when I disengage it car still will not start
Great fix on a security system! I love that it didn’t take whole lot of time to fix it! Keep up with the great work Eric O !
One thing for next time, I would suggest cutting the connector on the key side, then you can connect the resistors at the bench. That way all you have to do is go under the dash and plug it in. One other thing I have done is put a label on the wire with the resistor values for future reference, just in case they go bad. Hope I made sense, once again, great video as always and I appreciate the time and effort you put into making the videos.
Ricardo M. Great input..thanks
I doubt that the replacement resistor will ever go bad. The reasons that these
VAT systems fail is in the wiring that goes down the steering column or in the
ignition cylinder, not the resistor. There is very little voltage or amps in that
circuit, hence the thin but fragile wiring. You can always measure the resistance
in your original ignition key if you need it. Or you can write down the resistance
value of the chip in the ignition key in your owner's manual, so you can easily
find it if you need it.
The resistors won't lose their color bands. All somebody needs to do to figure the resistance is to calculate the codes on them.
Did this to my son's Firebird. It started intermittently not starting one day. This fix worked great.
I bought a similar resistor kit online just so I could get the power locks to function on a remote start I installed in a Jeep Liberty. Jeep requires very different specific resistance for the lock and unlock trigger outputs. Those resistor kits are great to keep around! Always finding uses for them! Great video Eric! Had to be a challenge to video it under a corvette dash!
She has the best smile 😊
All u gotta do is wrap wires to each side of key use electrical tape then tape it in a secure place it’s gonna show theft lights but will still start up no lag
Nice cheap repair & another happy SMA customer who saved themselves a lot of money by bringing ti to you.
Maybe in the city. In texas you're an outcast if you dont have a basic understanding on how to drive stick
Hannah is a beauty and she has a great teacher. Thumbs up.
Pro Tip... if you cut the wire on the key cylinder side instead of the factory side then you can make your connections outside of the car and just clip it in the car. Also you won’t have to worry about losing the the factory side connector if you ever do replace the key cylinder
Nailed it!
Dr. O, it was great meeting you and Mrs. O when my wife and I stopped by your shop on our recent road trip. BTW, the fall color was a bit of a disappointment but upstate New York and Vermont rock for their scenery. I understand why you like it up there. I hope you shoot a good one with the black powder rifle. Keep the videos coming, you have the best repair channel on the net. Congrats on 50k subscribers, 100k should be coming soon.
It was good seeing you Joe. Next time you are around give me the heads up and we can do lunch. I am in NC right now on a hunt and had a good first day. My computer is being a brat so I am having a hard time get a movie made for that...
what part of nc
Halifax County
Eric, has the best video instructions and explanations, for this fix, of the security system.
Hi Miss Hanna. I like seeing the older cars, so you got some brownie points for bringing us along on this one. I sure enjoyed the commentary along the way, your sense of humor cracks me up.
Just a thought... Rather than cut wires on the harness side, I would cut on the ignition switch side. The wires to the ignition lock side are part of the switch. That way is someone replaced the lock it would be good to go with no cut to the wires.
Really good shop hand, she pays really great attention thats definite awesomeness!
Thanks Eric and Hannah...I've got a 93 C4...So far l haven't had this problem but l'm sure it's going to happen...
Lol. I been watching your stuff for about a year on and off. My car finally did this to me and I finally found this video aaaaafter I went ahead and did this fix.
Nice and easy. All repairs should be this easy. Great job Eric. -John
Buy a two stroke motor like those on the chainsaw or lawnmower to power your bicycle. You will find everything is so easy to repair.
I had to do this on my wife's 03 Grand Am. The resistance to those is 2200 for anyone who needs to and the PASS module is under the passenger kick panel. Little extra FYI. Great vids Eric....
can you bring that box of resistors to the valet parking lot at the Hyatt? I need to get you to bypass about 12 cars I left there. Thanks
Randy T Lmao!
Owned a Sedan Deville with this system, drove me nuts. Keys back then were a couple hundred bucks.
Still have couple hundred dollars to get key yesterday,
Solder the wires to the resistor in the key itself (spare key) and tuck the whole thing up under the dash. Works great and you don't have to go find a resistor.
Nice! I wish I knew about this a while ago. I had a 2000 Pontiac Firebird with this system. A shop charged me $300 to fix this.
At least you had the money to throw around. A good sign of a healthy and functional life.
I'm so excited that this may work for my 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass
This is exactly what my Olds Alero did... This Security issue was the fix for me you did your research very well !! Nice going.And Thanks.
This is of course mandatory for a remote start system... Made a remote start/alarm/door lock/window control install diagram if anyone's interested. It's a viper on a 93 convertible, but good info for other years/models...
Fun fact: In 93, Corvette was the first car with optional automatic door lock/unlock, via a antenna loop in the drivers door which sensed the wireless remote. Though you did still have to take the key out of your pocket and do the manual thing to start it...
Thank God they evolved into something that you could use
GREAT WORK ERIC . EXACTLY HOW I WOULD HAVE FIXED THAT VATS ISSUE.
Hey Eric, how does one diagnose a 2006 dodge ram 1500 that just flashes and will not go into 4 wheel drive. I have learned a lot from you and I would appreciate very much continuing my automotive education with SOUTH MAIN AUTO. Thank you for being a great teacher. Your videos are great and you explain things in a clear and simple way. Thank you so much for your help.
Don in Jersey
must be the WORST door chime sound EVER
jj 😂😂😂
I think it wants to be put out of its misery.
I liked it. 👍
It sounds like it's dying
No, it's not. Try a 1985 Toyota Tercel.
You’re a lifesaver. I believe I can use this method on a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix since I drive one. I’ve had two times having to reprogram a key. I enjoyed the video 😎👍😁
This video was just what I needed, when I needed it! Fixed my 95 Camaro Z28! No tow necessary!!
Thank you for sharing the Buick motor mount replacement, not sure if mine is shot.2011 Buick Enclave, makes a grunting noise only on light acceleration, after I'm going no noise.
Thanks to this video, i was able to bypass the VATS in my 91' Camaro, thank you so much!
I also have a 91 Camaro I am getting spark and fuel pump is coming on security light does come on I noticed the injectors are not opening bc it will start off of starting fluid
you never let my homegirl say a word. Put her back on in the video. Also, very helpful, thanks
Just for curiosity reasons, why do you use the exact reading from the key vs the corresponding value in the VATS spec? There are 15 of them, this one should be a 1.8k I believe. Not there is anything wrong with your method of playing in the tolerance as long as it starts that is all that matters. If you are unable to locate the value from the key for any reason, like it is damaged, you can make a plugable selector to insert where you pulled the connector and rotate values until one of the 15 works.
Eric's positioning(both hand-held and on a tripod) of the camera is really good.
97' and newer years with VATS, they can be turned off in the PCM by a tune :) *did it on a 98' TA
I was looking into these videos and was hoping that you did a video on VATS. This is awesome! Thank you!
Nice permanent fix, happy customer and Hannah looks fab !
I'm sure he could of backprobed the connector with the home made resistor without cutting it.
Wouldn't have worked all the time. He mentioned that it was intermittent. So when it acts up, the resistor would take over. When it didn't act up? The system would read the key resistor + the resistor. So the security system would still trigger and cause it not to start.
Hanna sure is cute.
Tedybear315 the connection reading the key resistance is disconnected per the video, it will always ONLY read the resistors he put in
this is exactly what I did on my Camaro to get it running again, but just a tip for anyone watching, instead of cutting the wires from the wiring harness, just cut the pigtail that has the orange sleeve over it, crimp your resistors to those wires and plug it in to the harness connector that was cut in this video. the wire in the orange sleeve comes with a new lock cylinder if you ever decide to replace that side of the harness.
did i miss the brake cleaner and reach around segment? lol
Hannah is so lucky working for a cool guy like you. And if she is interested, she can learn a lot about car repair. Seems like a dream job to me :-) Greetings from Norway
I doubt she would be there if she wasn't interested.
I remember whenI had a 96 Pontiac G6. When I was a soldier in the barracks in the parking lot a 99 model another soldier had accidentally lock his keys in his trunk when taking stuff out. I saw this happen in the parking lot and since I had an older model of the same car and tried my key fob on his car and it worked! That surprised both of us but at least he was able to get his keys locked in the trunk.
Terry Rodbourn 96 g6 I think not
I believe it happened. I used to be a tech at a chevy dealer. While I was there I bought a new Chevy 1500, 1998. I had some work done in the pro shop due to being a conversion pkg and under warranty. Somehow my keys and the pro shop's managers keys got mixed up. Our key fobs worked on eachothers trucks but the keys wouldn't start the others. His keys would turn the dash lights on but wouldn't allow it to run.
I love your channel saved me a lot of money and time as for them other channels I call them clown videos I prefer ones like yours 100%
VATS = Vaultech Automated Targeting System.
Took a while to figure out why the video title sounded so familiar.
I clicked this video just to see how far down I would have to go to find this comment.
Vehicle anti theft system
I just had this done to my Caddy. Only we didn't have any resistors, instead we used the spare key. We trimmed the wires back and put the connector back on, then ground the key down a little bit to help it fit in the connector, put they key in the connector, put on some electrical tape it worked. Just in case anyone is ever in a bind.
yep,,,had to do that to my 91` Vett.. but secirity light was not flashing ..so for a hack like me It took a bit to diagnose.. in other words I removed the starter.. bench tested it ...and was pissed ..LOL ..17% on ebay for a pre made plug in resister btpass
I REALLY LIKE YOUR VIDEOS I HAD BEEN LEARNING ALOT !! THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR TIME
"Go pedal" and "whoa pedal?" I will find a way to inject that into a conversation soon. :)
I must have missed something when i got to the "sat" pedal. easily mistaken for the Q pedal. q the next gear, q neutral. sat pedal I'm talking about.
290 comments! Wow. No one is going to read this one. But anyhow, super fun video. When u said blow things up, I was reminded of the time u slide hammered to DEATH the Dodge Minivan front axle, when u could have just popped the ball joint loose. Epic fail. Of all your hundreds of videos its nice to c that even the maestro goofs up once in a while! Love the channel!!
Eric slide hammered the shit out of dodge minivan's front axle? You must be dreaming.
Gm should have done a recall
as usual another excellent sma video fix thank you wish you were closer you would be my mechanic
That Wall of Sound is a real throwback. In-dash CD player included.
Wall of Sound, your killing me.
The 4th Generation Corvette guys are going to love this video! Come in on a tow truck, going home on its own LOL
Hi Eric
How do you find these wire diagrams?
Love your video's, really like you are helping the young get into the trade. Highly recommend a beer on Sunday afternoon, and get those resistors into bags with the values on them, makes life a lot easier and its quite relaxing :)
Eric, great video. My wife has a 93 C4, and had a very similar issue with it not starting. Back at the time, we took it to a guy locally that is a Vette specialist, and he had the vehicle running in a matter of an hour. It sat at a Chevy dealership back then (2008/2009), because they said it was the BCM, and they were trying to locate one. I heard of this Vette guy from someone at work, and we had it towed to his shop. I just have one question: With the VATS module essentially "always seeing a key in the ignition with this bypass", I wonder if it affects the vehicle's security system from locking the car and I'm assuming as most GM vehicles do, disabling the vehicle from starting. The wife's remote hasn't worked in her car for years, and we just manually lock/unlock the doors. Anyway, just curious about it as it came to my mind as I was watching the video. Great video from you as always!! I enjoy following your channel!!
Hey Eric. I had an 89 Chevy S10 Blazer as a daily driver and used the same keys, mine and misses P's for over 26 years. It had the same security system, key with chip and never once did I have a problem. I do remember that once every year or so I'd see my or her keys laying on the work bench and while thinking of the next project, I'd see that the metal on those two little wires was getting tarnished looking. So I'd grab a little scotch bright and give the keys a couple of swipes to shine them up again. I did this out of habit and after watching your video, I now realize that I was simply maintaining that resistor key so it would make good contact. I drove that vehicle so much, that I wore the teeth down on the key so bad, that I could start the car and remove the key with the ignition switch still on and drive the vehicle, then shut it off by hand without the key. Apparently once the module saw the resistance and let the car start, it never rechecked it until the next start because I still needed the key for it to crank even though I could turn the ignition switch without it. If I had known about the resistor trick back then, I would have done just that and thrown away the key and started it by hand. The alarm and key fob's all still worked until the day they came and towed it away for scrap. Its really a shame because the body basically disappeared from Michigan rust, but the darn thing still ran great with 200k miles on it. It's when I felt the body actually tip sideways on a fast corner, that I figured it needed more than its third floor board replacement. That's when I traded the old girl in. Ah memories. Yes it was red and black and I still have the large decal that went completely across the rear tailgate saying CHEVROLET in silver lettering on black. Wonder what that could be worth? Oh, The key still hangs I my tool my tool box to this day. Jpol.
I LOVE YOU MAN! YOU KNOW YOUR SHIT I'VE LEARNED SO MUCH FROM YOU😂😉. HOW TO TROUBLE SHOOT & FIX THEM.KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING!!!! DETROIT'S MOTOR CITY STEVE
G'day, Mr. O! A nice shout out to, Miss Hanna! Should I compare thee (her) to a summer's day? She has such a beautiful smile!! Cheers! :-)
Had to do this to my 91 T/A. Miss that car. Oh and more Hannah less you. 😜
Ok just did this on a 97 olds cutlass and it worked. See if you can do it so can I. Thanks SMA.
Those resistors are handy for "fixing" knock sensors, airbag lights, seat belt pretensioners and more!
ishootstuff yes cause the safe and responsible thing to do is bypass airbag and seat belt warning lights ... smh
Sometimes on older vehicles when you cannot get the parts anymore due to be obsolete you do what you got to do. Also back in the day people drove without seatbelts and airbags.
Someguy6571 they also died a lot easier as a result of the lack of said devices.
People die today due to said devices as well. Nothing’s full proof. Still I agree it’s much better today than back then. A LOT safer.
Seat belt warning lights don't MATTER, as long as you wear
your seat belts, which is still the best protection you can give
yourself. As for the airbag warning lights, I had one once, the
problem was a corroded sensor behind the front bumper. If you
get such a warning light, that is the FIRST part that you should
replace.
man!! how i wish your shop would be where I live!!! you know so much!!! love your videos mannnnn!!!! you would be my only go to mechanic
I always liked 'Home of the Full Gorilla" for a motto. Then you could put a little graphic on the screen when tightening things for the different gorilla strengths to use like 1/2 Gorilla, 1/4 Gorilla, 1/8th Gorilla, Baby Gorilla and Full Gorilla. That would be hilarious! Should be on T-shirts and coffee mugs..."South Main Auto - Home of the Full Gorilla".
Great video I got an Oldsmobile w same issue fixing it tomorrow Thanks for the refresher course I couldn’t remember if it mattered which way the resistor went I guess not Thanks👍👍
Turn those speakers around and gain at least 15 pounds of thrust
Thank you for the information. May I suggest taking your non compliant key, inserting into ignition, turn it to the run position for 1 hour then start your car? Let me know if it works.
I guess 2 people that disliked this video work for gm!
They were most likely the engineers who designed the VAT system in the first place!
Lol
They may be the same engineers who designed the placement of the Cavalier oil filter!
GM used 11 resistor values you have to get within 10% of the original value. I am sure there is a chart of the values on the net. I found the values on this subject 20 years ago in a motor mag. As always thumbs up.
ACTUALLY 15 DIFFERENT VALUES
Looked like he took the car audio display inside best buy and installed it in there
It's a c4, nothing you can do to it will make it worse.
hahaha I was thinking the same thing
More like Walmart.
Radio Shack .... they should put an 8 track cassette
Your the best out there brother love your videos always great! and also work
Nice job, Eric. I wish i had a helper as good as yours.
Two of my Cars have/had that System, both had worn Lock Cylinders that permit(ed) me to pull the Key out, and as long as I don't lock the Ignition Switch, I can stop and restart the Engine without putting the Key back in. I know for sure one had a Remote Starter in it, and the other probably had one, at one time, and the wires to the Engine Modules, had a Resistor added to allow the Remote to work.