From Court Dress to Your Grandma’s Couch- The Many Lives of a Sacque Back Gown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- There's a lot more to explore! (See the links and references below).
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Images-
[1]- Robe a la Française, French, 1760-70, MMA, 2009.300.9032,b
[2]- Diagram by author. Based off a Robe a la Française c. 1775-1785.
[3]- Robe Volante, c. 1730, French, Palais Galliera, GAL2016.28.1.1-2
[4]- Length of Silk Brocade, 1774, Cleveland Museum of Art, 1952.548.a
[5]- Dress fabric, 1760s, France, V&A, T.107-1962.
[6]- “The Declaration of Love”, 1731, Jean-François de Troy, National Gallery of Art, Washington DC
[7]- Robe Volante, c. 1730, French, Palais Galliera, GAL2016.28.1.1-2
[8]- Gown, 1745-1750 altered 1780s, English, PMA, T.26-1966.
[9]- Gown, c. 1760s altered 1785-1790, English, Victoria and Albert, T.165-1912.
[10]- Muslin Dress, c. 1796-1802, Private collection.
[11]- Kjole, c. 1820, Norwegain, Nasjonalmuseet for Kunst, OK-07407.
[12]- Dress, 1868, American, Maryland Center for History and Culture, 2019.6.1.
[13]- Ballgown, c. 1842 fabric c. 1740, British, MMA, 2009.300.1007.
[14]- Dress, c. 1845, fabric c. 1760, English, Victoria and Albert, T.85-1971.
[15]- Dress, England, c.1840, MFIT, P87.20.7.
[16]- Silk Lancé Document, 1750-1765, Europe, CWF, 1971-319.
[17] Gown Skirt Panel (worn by Martha Washington), 1734-1740, Anna Maria Garthwaite, England, CWF, 1975-342,1.
[18]- Lady Sarah Wilson as Madame de Pompadour, Duchess of Devonshire House Ball, 2 July 1987
[19]- Miss A Abbott in costume, Montreal, QC, 1881,
[20]- Gown, 1770s altered 1870-1884, England, V&A, 839 to B-1884.
[21]- Sack, 1775-1780 altered 1870-1910, English, Victoria and Albert, T.13.1-2005.
[22]- Dress, 1770-1780 altered 1898, McCord Museum, M966.53.1.1-3.
[23]- Gelatin silver glass plate negative - Miss Maud Terroux as the Baronne de Beaumouchel, costumed for Chateau de Ramezay Ball, Montreal, QC, 1898, McCord Museum.
[24] DuPont Family in 1922
[25]- Courtyard Room, Winterthur
[26]- Port Royal Parlor, Winterthur
[27]- Chair, 1800-1810 fabric 1775-1800, Philadelphia, Winterthur Museum, 1956.0018.001
[28]- Settee, 1760-1775, fabric 1745-1760, Winterthur Museum, 1959.1877
[29]- Easy Chair, 1750-1760 fabric 1740-1760, Winterthur Museum, 1956.1121
[30]- Lolling chair, 1795 fabric Scalamandre, American, Winterthur Museum, 1957.0653
[31]- First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy was photographed on the Montmorenci stairs at Winterthur when she visited on May 8, 1961. Robert Hunt Whitten, photographer Action Photo. Courtesy, the Winterthur Library Winterthur Archives.
[32]- The Special Committee for White House Paintings. Dec. 1961, John F. Kennedy Presidential Library.
[33]- Jackie Kennedy’s “Green Room”, 1961, John F. Kennedy Presidential Library
[34]- Advertisment, 1970s
[35]- Quilted Sofa, 1970s, Online Auction[
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It's sad that we've lost these dresses, but we still have the fabric and can look at it to get ideas and inspiration for our own interpretation of the dresses. Thank you for putting this information together for us.
I had NO IDEA that Scalamandre was started in the early 20th century!!! I was so sure it was an actual 18th century silk weaving collective that had lasted to the present day!! You have officially blown my mind!
It’s not even 100 years old yet. I’m pretty sure there is like one guy who still weaves silk in the 18th century way. The Mets Marie Antionette chairs were recovered with handwoven silk brocade- there might be a video about it- but it literally took this guy a year to weave all the new covers.
what an eye-opener! i see my mother's couch in a whole new light. Subscribed!
Merci pour cette très intéressante vidéo. Quelle tristesse que toutes ces merveilleuses robes aient été transformées en tissus d'ameublement 😢! Mais voilà ... c'est la vie. Vous faites un travail de recherche fascinant. J'aime beaucoup votre chaîne. Amitiés de France 😊.
Maybe this is why I cant wear floral print without feeling like I look like somebodys grandmas couch.
I'm in the process of making a 1780s dress & that is *exactly* the problem I had when searching for fabric for it! The fabric which is similar to the types of patterns they would've used on dresses either looks like a couch or looks like wallpaper! 🤣
Fascinating and entertaining video! I have thought the same, looking at both antique furniture with original upholstery and a lot of the prints on vintage furniture
Loved this
I love your channel! Thank you for the lovely content :D
Great video! Have you seen that the Costume Society of America Southeast Region is having a symposium this October with the theme of reuse and sustainability? This topic would be perfect for a presentation!
I saw that! Unfortunately, I have another conference during that time already.
That was very interesting video! I know it's in the past and it's just a part of the cycle of fabrics reuse, but it still makes me sad to think all those gowns were destroyed. Are there any good, reliable resources (reference books, web pages) that show and tell which patterns were used for what and from what time to what time? I sometimes hear people say things like, "oh, no, you can't use this fabric for 1770s gown, by that time this pattern was only used for furniture", or "no, this pattern was first made in 1843", and it'll be interesting to have some references source that I could check without having to do 10 year-study.
There are some great books on the subject-
Wearable Prints 1760-1860 by Susan Greene
Textiles in America by Florence Montgomery
Selling Silks by Lesley Ellis Miller
Silk Designs of the 18th Century by the V&A
Granted those books are expensive so I recommend paging through the Met and V&A (or other museums) online databases for references. Once you get a visual reference bank in your brain, you can coast on vibes for most fabric.
@@costumeandconservation Thank you so much for your answer. :)
Fascinating! So I take it that the fabric prints didn't really go out of style, just the garment shapes? I guess the fashionableness of prints is a 20th century mass-manufacturing trend.
There were definitely pattern “trends” but they lasted much longer and because the fabric was so expensive to produce, only the very wealthy could afford to discard clothing in the name of fashion.
These dresses, along with frock coats and other 18th century stuff, would have also been worn as costumes for theater and opera.
This is amazing, I remember my aunt couch and the floral and thinking why this pattern is so pretty but it's on a couch... Your theory is very interesting and I hope you continue to further develop it ☺️
I do know about those mascare balls, the one on top of my head is D.Maria Pia mascare ball in 1865, the recently arrived Portuguese queen did one soiree in 1864 and in 1865 she hosted the ball and wore three outfits (a Marie Tudor style, a Scottish country style and a domino style dress). There isn't much research nor any gowns have survived today, but it's safe to assume they were adapted from their original state for these dances 😄
All I'm saying is that if one of my dresses gets turned into a couch in 200 years, someone's getting haunted 😠
There was also a big fad for colonialism in architecture and home décor around 1976, the bicentennial.
Definitely! (I totally had this in my notes and forgot to say it in the video)