Mantua Makers and the Rise of the Female Dressmaker - Silk Routes Symposium
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Silk Routes Symposium Class: Mantua Makers and the Rise of the Female Dressmaker
When thinking of 18th-century clothing, images immediately come to mind of opulent silk gowns worn over panniers, heavily trimmed and embroidered. Such gowns were the work of female seamstresses, who for the first time in European History were legally working in guild structures. This class will explore the 17th century origins of such gowns, and how their widespread adoption assisted the rise of female dressmakers.
This is by no means a complete discussion of any or all of the topics covered (dressing gowns in the 17th and 18th century, for example, were not solely inspired by Kimonos, but also drew on garments worn in Turkey, India, and China, for instance), but hopes to inspire more thought into how European fashionable dress was inspired by the rest of the world.
For more information on Kimono, see Erika's Silk Routes video: Intro to Kimono. • Introduction to Kimono...
Primary Sources:
Arrival of the Europeans Screen - www.metmuseum....
Dutchman with Servant - www.metmuseum....
Robe (Kosode) with cherry blossoms and cypress fence www.metmuseum....
VOC Plate - www.metmuseum....
Secondary Sources:
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 1, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2021
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 5, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018
Blaine, Dr. Ilana Singer, Kimono, Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art www.tmja.org.i...
Crowston, Clare, Engendering the Guilds: Seamstresses, Tailors, and the Clash of Corporate Identities in Old Regime France, French Historical Studies, Vol 23:2, Spring 2000, pp.339-371 read.dukeupres...
Crowston, Clare, Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France 1675-1791, Duke University Press, Durham and London, 2001
Crowston, Clare, Women, Gender, and Guilds in Early Modern Europe, paper presented at The Return of the Guilds, Utrecht University, 5-7 October 2006 iisg.nl/hpw/pa...
Doolan, Paul, The Dutch in Japan, History Today, Vol 50 (4), April 2000, pp.36-42
Glamann, Kristof, Dutch-Asiatic Trade 1620-1740, Martinus Nijhoff's Gravenhage, Den Haag, 1981
Hill, Daniel D., History of World Costume and Fashion, Prentice Hall, New York, 2011
Joby, Christopher Richard, Dutch in Seventeenth-Century Japan: A Social History, Journal of Low Country Studies, Vol 42:2 2018, pp.175-196 www.tandfonlin...
Koda, Harold, and Richard Martin. “Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000 - www.metmuseum.o... (October 2004)
Kramer, Elizabeth, and Akiko Savas, The Kimono Craze: From Exoticism to Fashionability, 2020 researchportal...
Mikhaila, Ninya, and Jane Malcolm Davies, The Typical Tudor, .....................
North, Susan, Indian Gowns and Banyans - New Evidence and Perspectives, Costume, Volume 54:1, pp.30-55
Satsuki Milhaupt, Terry, Kimono: A Modern History, Reaktion Books, London, 2014 www.perlego.co...
Thornton, Peter, The 'Bizarre' Silks, The Burlington Magazine , Aug., 1958, Vol. 100, No. 665 (Aug., 1958), pp. 265-270
Thunder, Moira, Object in Focus: Man's Banyan, Word and Image Department, Victoria and Albert Museum www.fashioningt...
Thursfield, Sarah, Perfect Linens Plain and Fancy, 2006
Toyoshima, Masako, The Evolution of Japanese Women's Kimono from A.D.200 - 1960, Master's Report, Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, 1967
Wahid, Abdul, The Dutch's 'Floating Life' on Deshima Island: A Gloomy Side of Dutch-Japan Relationship During the Tokugawa Periode, 1715-1790, Jurnal Kajian Wilayah, Vol. 6 No. 1, 2015. pp.1-16
Weibel, Adele C., A Silk Fabric of Bizarre Design, Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts , 1957-1958, Vol. 37, No. 1 (1957-1958),
pp. 5-6
Van Veen, Ernst, VOC Strategies in the Far East (1605-1640), Bulletin of Portuguese - Japanese Studies, Vol 3, Dec 2001, pp. 85 - 105 www.redalyc.or...
V&A Museum, Japan's encounter with Europe, 1573 - 1853, www.vam.ac.uk/...
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I'm ,a 68 , years old Scotsman who, Whilst reading Charlies Dickens came across Mantua-Makers . Ignorant I watched, you're, video how enlightening, An Education, Thanks
Really great presentation on the evolution of the banyan as well as the mantua and sackbacks. Thank you so much.
Thank you. :) I’m glad you liked it!
Fascinating! I learned a lot. Thank you!
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Your title said "Mantua Maker", so of course I had to come learn! Really enjoyed learning how female dressmakers began. Thinking about how sewing is often seen as "women's work" now, yet the designer field is often dominated by male designers 🤔. I also found the history of the banyan very interesting. Thank you!
I’m glad you enjoyed it! It’s interesting to see how gendered perceptions of different aspects of the textiles industry have changed over time!
This is a great video with a lot of really great detail and explanation!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. :)
This is a fantastic overview! I appreciate the political and economic history you linked to the cultural dissemination and the influences behind the changes in historical dress.
Fascinating!
Let me point this out about the Jesuits ... they aren't a branch of the Catholic Church; rather, it is a Catholic religious order whose mission was to evangelize, much like the Benedictine order was dedicated to studying, the Carmelite order to praying. Religious orders could be male or female, or both; the Jesuit order was, and is to this day, a male order.
That’s a really good way of putting it - I couldn’t remember the words for religious order, so ended up putting it badly. Thank you for the extra clarification in a comment! :)
If I remember correctly, Jo March refers to herself as, or is referred to as the 'mantua maker general' of her family at one point in Little Women. She’s obviously not making actual mantuas in the latter half of the 1800s, but it’s interesting the term still survives.
this was realy interesting :) thank you for the informative video!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. :)
Not sure if I missed this but tailors guild had exclusive rights to flat patterning and Mantua makers were able to rise up because they didn't use flat patterning, they used draping. Had they not adopted the draping technique (which arguably works better with the female form then a patterned method for the historical styles) they wouldn't have even been allowed to become a guild.
It was a point that I don’t think I got across overly well in the video (nothing like brain fog for making life difficult!). But yes, the exclusive flat patterning used by the tailors forcing women to drape (which you sort of have to do with the mantua and sacque and so on) was definitely a massive influence in the rise of mantua makers - I do wonder whether if a similar style of clothing had been adopted earlier, whether a female guild would have been formed earlier… Without a style of clothing that needed draping, I’d imagine that forming a female guild would have been far more difficult.