How to replace a crankshaft position sensor 1999 Mercedes E320 with problem starting.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I discuss where the crankshaft position sensor is on a 1999 Mercedes E320 and what tools I used to remove it. I also explain the differences between the 2 versions of sensors that were used in this car.
The 1 tab version is part # 0261210170 or 0261210171.
The 2 tab version is part # 0261210141 or 0261210142
Thank you Sergeant Black . You have described the issue that I 'hope' is causing intermittent start-fail when car is warm/hot . Auto electrician said to pour about 2 litres of cool water down in that region of bellhousing to prove if it was faulty sensor (to cool it down) . I was a little sceptical but it worked when the car failed to re-start . Having you show setup with tools and location I'm to order the part and save myself some money , I hope . Thanks for your video . Top work Sir .
Doesnt look like you make videos anymore but this video saved me !!! I was broke down on the side of the road and my car randomly started working again and I figured out this was the problem !
Thank you so much. Extremely helpful video. The mechanic said this is around $200 repair but I love doing and learning things on my own. Only way to learn about cars is to do it yourself right through learning and experience. :)
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You saved me from junking this damn car. It works great now!
thanks for the tip on the wire leading to it. I have a2000 320. I used a 1/4 " drive and leaned in from the front to rear down to it only needing on short extension, that external Torx faces almost straight up, mine is the single tab.
This video helped immensely, got mine out in 10 minutes with this tutorial
Thanks a lot for the detailed description! I have the same problem on my CLK. Now i know what i have to whatch for ;D
saschka01061985 you're welcome, hope you were able to fix yours too
Yes, now my baby runs again...the easiest and most effective repair i`ve ever done XD
Hope this setup is similar to the ML430...thanks for the clarification on the "one-tab, two-tab" deal--I will definitely remove old unit first.
Very helpful, thank you for explaining as if I knew what a tool was but was not a mechanic.
Thank you very much for all the straight- forward information you’ve provided !
It did very much set so I try and replace mines tomorrow evening and lets see what happens Salute
very helpful thanks MAN!
I did this back in 2012. Jeez, I remember all the cursing… 🤦🏼♂️😂
going to do this job soon. this will help me a lot. thanks for the help!
It’s super clear and helpful (the explanation) video is a bit... blurred ;) but indeed a good video, thanks man!
Thank you so much for this video! We we're able to do this replacement following your tips on the video.
you can use regular 8mm 12 pt socket and the job is 20 minute nice job
A lot of good information you shared .
Thanks. Saved myself a trip to mech
You sir are a scholar! Fantastic video
Thanks for the video. you answered questions before I ask them, love you tube videos.
Thank you so much brother. God bless.
Many thanks for the information.
Thanks, my man. This problem is some annoying sh!t.
would it be the same on a 1998 c280?
mine it start but sometimes cuts off and wont start anymore if i wait 10 or 15 minutes start again do you think this is the problem?
thanks
Super helpful. Thank you.
Is this more accessible from the bottom of the engine?
Thanks a lot, man. Much appreciated.
Hey thanks for the video. Took me forever to figure out what was wrong with the car. Now that I have the part I'm having issues installing it cause of the limited space in the engine bay. Does anybody have any tips, or know where I can get the exact tool?
Coul it be reason why my fuel pump have no sound when i turn key on? I have new pump and all releys ar ok, bhth no sound pump.... Crank sensor give a impuls to ecu and him let pump run?
Mines currently on jack stands, ( Mercedes ml430, suv)
Trying my best to get this POS part replaced 🙂
Bloody nuckles and all
very good,thanks a lot!
I this a gasser, or the OM642 Common Rail Diesel?
I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee with the diesel. It looks like the cps went. Dealership is having issues, bit also rarely sees these diesel Jeeps.
rixmag gas
I attempted this job but couldn't get a hand down the feel the bolt or the E8 with a very long extension. how long did it take you to get sensor out?
I'TS difficult for sure, but i have big hands and arms and i got it. Try unsnapping that overflow hose {this is on a 99' ML 320}, it gives you a bit more room. If you shine a flashlight from right near the master cyllinder where you fill the brake fluid down into the bellhousing of the transmission you can see it. There's only one wire that runs right to this sensor. Unsnap the wire harness from the sensor, comes off easily. Then take your E8 that is on a wobbly/universal in your hand and feel down there for the single bolt. It's hard but don't give up you can get to it if you stay with it. I almost gave up too and paid a mechanic $3 or $400 to do it for me, but I stuck with it, got it on there, then attached my 2 foot extension and the bolt came loose EASY !! All you have to do is break it loose, then you can just use the wobbly and the E8 {no extension} to get it the rest of the way. When putting the new one in, do not have it connected to the wire harness first because it's such a tight fit that you actually have to get it started STRAIGHT IN THE HOLE {i cannot stress this part enough} it HAS to be in that hole with the bolt hole lined up perfectly straight otherwise it will not be able to touch the crankshaft perfectly and send the reading to the computer. Then you just get it in the hole straight and take your 2 foot extension and put it on the top of the sensor and gently tap on it {unless you can get it to sit down flush into the hole with just your hands pushing it in, I could not}. Once you tap it down flush simply connect the harness and she will start right up !! I have not even put that damn pain in the ass bolt back in yet and it's been 2 weeks of steady driving {my daughter delivers pizza in this thing daily too lolol } and no issues at all !! It's such a tight fit that sensor cannot go anywhere. I think that bolt is just for good measure/extra security tbh with you because it was such a bitch to get out AND in, such a tight fit that there's really no way it can move or go anywhere.
@@larryjackson4632 Was putting the extension into the joint wobber hard to do? Did you ever get any problems by not putting the E8 screw back on?
Is this sensor effects on car idling ?
Thank you dude.
Fuck me wish I knew about that. My CLK didn't start, so I left it and walked home. Took me about 30 minutes to get home, got my other CLK, drove to my car, start it and it worked. -.-
Skorp Saiyan Same shit happened to me. I went home grabbed my truck and the tow strap as well as my newly licsened daughter. I got back to the benz and thought I will try to start it one last time. By then it cooled down and started.
Nailed it! TY
Tht "E8" torx seems to be a 7mm in my case (e 240)
Yea i found a deep 1/4 to fit perfectly. Dont fool around with the E8 its a freakin pain. I tried for 30min to get that on there, switched to a 1/4 and i was in and out lol
I have 02 ML 320 start error code , changed burned body control module due to roofleek driped right above the emergency brake on it !!! I bought on ebay same part # A1635457332 and took it to dealer ,payed $184 for programing BCM and still not starting I gave up to pay other $200 to program key or deal with steelership ....anybody has solution below $500 ? Now thinking to buy ECU ,Bcm,key ,tubler and sender of ebay .....did anybody do it ??..... would I be ok without reprograming in steelership tro start the car if all of it is changed from diffrend car ???? Thanks
passenger side?
Just use a deep 1/4 instead of that stupid E8 torx
A E-Torx kit from Sunnex is $20, it's worth it's weight in gold when you need one. You can round off and strip E Torx bolt heads with normal sockets.
Bad idea.