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:-/ your method to clean the throttle body is absolutely wrong 👎 Please learn the proper method, so you don't cause permanent damage to the throttle body.
Pro tip : Watch the RPM while cranking, a little raise in RPM indicates computer receiving a signal from crank sensor. If the RPM is not moving at all then there's an issue with Crankshaft sensor or something related to it.
Not always. Some sensors are not sensitive enough to read an engine turning over at 100rpm. And some sensors only communicate when the engine actually starts.
This is a great comment many mechanics I know use the RPM test under “live data” on the obd scanner to check to see if the crankshaft sensor is working
Super helpful. Just grabbed an obd2 from amazon because we have an old 2005 cavalier we are trying to fix up and it wont turn over. changed the whole fuel system. Pump, filter, spark plugs.... Still won't turn over. But your video now leads me to believe its an airflow issue somewhere so I'll check that tomorrow while I wait for the obd2 reader to arive.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is one of the best videos I have found on here by far. Very informative and easy to understand. I subscribed as soon as the video was over. Looking forward to whatever else u have! I’m working on a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L. Never had any issues with the car until recently. This baby has been a BEAST! 250k+ miles. Never once broke down on me. Ever. Started quickly every time. Drove smooth. I had a massive oil leak for a very long time. I had to carry 5qts on me at all times. It was bad. I took it to a shop to see where it was coming from. They told me to scrap it bc it was leaking everywhere it could. $2500 quote to fix maybe 40% of the leak. I decided to look myself. I narrowed it down to the vvt solenoid gasket. Changed it and no more oil leak! $10 fixed what I was quoted would be $2500-6k. My ac control head would lose power. I could wiggle the harness around and/or flip the control head upside down/sideways and sometimes get it to come back on, until it wouldn’t anymore. I got a used control head and had ice cold air! After this I decided to change my plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Might as well give her extra loving since I got the rest fixed. Only after this have I had issues. It’s currently in my driveway not wanting to start. Last time it did this, after it sat for a week or so, it started. I drove it the other day and it died on me. I had to pull it home. Wife was in tears before it was over. Great times. (Not from me being a dick lol) I first started noticing issues when I was using the air conditioner. Sometimes my rpms would get weird and act like the car wanted to die but wouldn’t. Then, all the sudden the air was only cold while I was driving. It may be my fan assy. I’m still checking into that. If the condenser fan isn’t working while I’m idle, I do understand it will cause the air to get hot. Just mentioning this incase it’s relative to the issue. Very sorry this is so long. I’m hoping someone reads this and knows what my issue is. Can the ac cause the car to have issues where it will die and not start? I wouldn’t think so but I’m obv not a mechanic. After I changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, plus got the ac working is when I started having issues. I don’t think it’s the ignition parts bc I checked if I had spark and I do. Plus it was running beautifully. All the noises I heard before were gone. It was running silent. I don’t think I’m getting fuel. Is this a coincidence or did the load from the ac cause this issue to arise? I checked all my fuel pump fuses/relay and they’re good. No blown fuses, the relay clicks when I turn my key like it’s working. When I sprayed starter fluid into my intake hose, the car will start right away. Obv it won’t stay running more than a few second but it starts. I changed the fuel pump and pump filter last night. (Just the fuel pump, not the whole assy. My gas gauge is working so didn’t need the whole thing) and the car still won’t start! What am I missing? Noway all the injectors have failed all at once. Maybe I got a bad part from oreillys… it happens.. could it be the fuel pressure regulator causing it to die and not start? I stopped and got a fuel pressure tester to use tonight. So we’ll see if that helps me. Sorry again for this looooong ass novel 😬 💀 😂
Very good vid. You missed out one other probable cause and thats a fuel cut off switch that is usually in the glove compartment. They can trip if you hit a pothole. Thanks for this vid. Cheers. 🍻👍👍
I have a 01' lexus GS 300 with an intermittent crank no start. Leaving me stranded often. I replaced crank shaft POS sensor and no deal. Had the idea to : change the air filter, clean the mass air flow sensor, and run injector cleaner through it. Once i did all that i no lobger get the crank no start problem. I was thinking there might have been a carbon blockage in the fuel rail or something but i really dont know. Hope this helps someone
I changed battery,starter,alternator, fuel pump and still cranking, and at the end i replace all sensors and after changing maf sensor it was solved.I didnt have any error on diagnostic or dash.
@@hazy-jgonzalez2468 map,maf, 2 types camshaft position, fuel pressure, fuel regulator sensor, glow plugs.. that all can cause long start with no error on dash.
Use your deductive skill and Spray starter fluid (ether) down the intake duct. If the engine runs on that the spark system is working, (crank sensor OK) so your problem is in the fuel system. Next step would be to verify fuel pressure at the supply to the injector rail (Screw gauge onto test port), then, verify fuel injectors are pulsing. If a bad crank sensor, I think the engine controller doesn’t even know the engine is turning over so it won’t spark our pulse injectors, and won’t throw a code. If your fuel pump fails on the road, try kicking the fuel tank as your key on and off and it might start turning again to immediately drive home or to a shop. Hope that helps but that’s what I did to figure out if it was a fuel issue or a spark/ignition problem. 👍🏻
Friend's '02 Camry. Picked it up on the side of the road, crank no start. Throttle body was siezed, plugs are shot, threw codes for cyl 3 and 4 misfire before it died. Got new plugs in, I flooded the cylinders, so those are drying rn. Tomorrow is a compression test. I fixed the throttlebody, it now moves as it should. I have air, fuel, and spark. Timing is currently unknown. If I can't get her going tomorrow, I'll hit timing next.
2005 Toyota Camry 6cy I have a major coolant leak coming from the side where the water pump is at. Im not sure if the car overheated as my mom was driving at the time. Car won't start it cranks but won't turn over.
I have a 2010 jeep commander sport 3.7 v6 engine & I just replaced the flywheel with the new original part because it had loud idle knock sounds but car was running fine before changing the flywheel so turns out I checked with an ob2 & got several codes in regards to issues of crank no start. So since I do know my way around vehicles to a certain extent I changed the following myself new coils & plugs, new camshaft & crankshaft, bought & changed new ecm, did a whole radiator flush & a catalyc converter, egr valve & fuel injector cleaner, new oxygen sensor, new starter, I took off the map sensor cleaned it, checked my battery & alternator, the fuel pump & oil pressure, the plugs & coils have spark, the crankshaft & camshaft are working good as well the truck has gas too but still crank no start the only thing I need to check now is the gas fuel filter to see if it's not clogged to replace it with a new one & checking egr valve see if it needs replacing but other than that idk what else to do on it any ideas on what it can be everything I've replaced is new & are original parts since it's my daughter's truck I Love working on the little stuff myself everything except for motors & transmissions lol but please let me know what you think it could be thanks🙏
My car cranking only at morning and it’s very hard to start if weather is very cold or rainy. If one’s it’s start again it’s working properly. What’s the fault with this?
I know this is for cars that arent suuuper old BUT, I bought a project car from the 1980s that would crank but would not start. For those doing a project car that was not running and has no OBDll port try to first address the fuel system as stated in the video. Previous owner tried to get it to start and changed new spark plugs (checked by taking them out) and new distributor.I changed the fuel pump and fuel sender unit on my datsun along with the fuel filter. It wouldn't crank. I checked the fuses... didn't crank. I was lost until I took it to a mechanic and they found the battery was properly grounded. they simply moved the ground onto a metal part on the actual engine cover and BOOM it ran. I replaced the fuel injectors since it was more than 20 years since it ran and so far it was good. Most people don't mention a bad ground since they assume its wired correctly but to those who have a project car or a car that someone else worked on try that.
I think if we could all just pull the codes or would make our lives easier and we wouldn't need to research symptom. The codes I got before my ECU was reset due to dead battery but the codes helped me find my first problem. Now I have to find what issues the burned wire meet had free caused as such as frying the ECU or other electronic components.
Hello, very informative video! I had a mechanic check out my car because it was cranking but the car would not turn over. In his recent diagnosis, “ Low pressure feed pump seemed to be working the whole time. I was mistaken about the 2nd line being a return. It was a vapor line for evap emissions. The mechanical high pressure pump also seemed normal. It would start the car as soon as the pressure sensor started to see fuel pressure. The problem was it couldn’t spin fast enough with just the starting rpm, that’s why the cold start injector is needed. That initial rev of the engine spins the high pressure pump fast enough to start building pressure and the direct injectors take over. The cold start valve is essentially doing the same thing as us shooting a shot of starter fluid to get it going. “ He thinks its the fuel injection cold start valve, but I personally think its the fuel pump. Thoughts?
I had replaced my crank sensor because it was cracked and car started up let it idle for a while drove it around but when to turn it on again and back to square one
😂👍 I know the feeling. I got my mot tomorrow and sometimes my car wont start when warm. Only sometimes. Ive tried 3 starter motors. Changed the battery. Crank sensor. Mass airflow sensor. Cam sensor. changed the fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the throttle body. Changed the ignition switch. Tested all electrical earths. Replaced all relays. Replaced fuel injectors . Had it on a obd diagnostics with no faults. Changed the coil pack and plugs. Changed the Altanator. Replaced the fuel cutout switch. And its still doing it. 🤣🤣🤣 Im determained to sus this out. .. And i will. 😅
I am currently dealing with this same problem myself on my 05 Nissan Altima •changed spark plugs and ignition coils •changed both cam and crank sensor •changed fuel pump myself •changed thermostats (just to get em done) •changed and cleaned out throttle body And still won't turn over. My only suggestions are either clogged fuel injectors or a bad fuel rail. And I have to change my head gasket - on top of that.
😅 Im in same boat 😂👍 I know the feeling. I got my mot tomorrow and sometimes my car wont start when warm. Only sometimes. Ive tried few starter motors. Changed the battery. Crank sensor. Mass airflow sensor. Cam sensor. changed the fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the throttle body. Changed the ignition switch. Tested all electrical earths. Replaced all relays. Replaced fuel injectors . Had it on a obd diagnostics with no faults. Changed the coil pack and plugs. Changed the Alternator. Replaced the fuel cutout switch. Changed air filter. And its still doing it. 🤣🤣🤣 Im determained to sus this out. .. And i will. 😅 Update. Mot guy recons starter motor 🤔 that I should buy a new one we shall see. 👍👍👍
Have you looked for a fuel cut off switch. Usually in the glove compartment. Do some research where yours maybe. It is usually yellow and looks nothing like a switch. You never know. Good luck 👍👍
@@Alien_O1hahaha I'm in the same boat, changing my earths seemed to fix the problem a little... as in i do not have to wait 10 to 15 minutes before i can start the car again. But now it only takes 1 minute or 2 and the car starts right back up. Car temperature reads fine on Obd scanner and thermal temp gun but i have to say feels a little hotter than a normal engine, so I'm guessing maybe that my water pump may seem fine outside but on the inside it has poor/No water circulation. So thats my next move this week.
@@mrshaqs8507I wouldn't unless you have flushed your coolent and the water temperature is over heating like a kettel boiling and the thermostat has been changed or the pump is making a screaming noise. because the waterpump usually is connected to the timing belt. And thats easy if you know how. but nacker the timing and its bye bye engine. 😉👍 buy a brand new starter moter. thats usually the issue.
I got an 05 PT CRUISER. Starts fine runs fine but when you turn off the ignition, it won't start until it cools down.changed FUEL pump, serviced the ECU, changed cam position sensor with OEM sensor. Changed Crank position sensor. I do have a code for O2 sensor but changed them not too long ago. I'm out of options at this point. Any thoughts on this?
Map sensor was covered in oil cleaned it n now runs better also had a loose hose clamp on the pipe that runs to egr valve. Still is a little sluggish from a stop. Should i just replace the sensor? Also can a crank position sensor cause a acceleration issue from a stop?
I have swift 2005 1st gen. petrol cng i have change ECM as well as crank sensor but still my car got stuck in between or once we parked after long run my car is only crank for next 10mins then start after 10 mins. Please give me a suggestion what should i do now?
Hi mate I have a Great Wall Cannon 2.0 turbo diesel, and there was water in the fuel tank. GWM cleaned the tank and replaced the fuel filter, but they said three injectors failed. I took it of them because they wanted too much. I replaced four injectors from another used car with the same engine. I coded the used injectors and bled the system from the fuel rails and the injectors. But the car still won’t start. It used to start even when there was water in the tank, but it was running rough. Now, it just cranks. I’m looking for some advice on a few things. Do you have any recommendations? And only two codes came up in the scan tool. 183B.
2011 Dodge Charger overheaded changed radiator cause it was leaking and now it cranks and no start also changed cooliant temp sensor cam shaft sensor still no start also checked for 🔥 its good fuel pump is working need help any suggestions 🙏
Hello, I have a problem My MB E200 / 2007 - M271.956 with starting cold and even hot, after stopping for 1-2 hours it starts very hard. I have no errors on the tester and perfect operation. I replaced spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, cam sensor, crankshaft sensor. What can it be? Thank you very much!
2002 camry, 290k miles. Cut off while driving, no crank no start starter does not click, battery at full charge when car sut off and still is. Dash lights and headlights on. No blown fuses, no visibly burnt relays. Any thoughts?
I have a 1998 Volkswagen Passat that won't start it will crank but no start and I have changed the spark plugs and put fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank what would make it not start
I have a 2002 acura mdx that just gives one click when i try to start it. First couple times it was loose or dirty battery tremonals. Now its doing the same but i put new terminals. Battery is @ 98%. Any idea how to resolve this ?
My vehicle will start but it’ll crank for about 3-5 seconds before turning over when it’s hot outside. They said the battery, alternator and starter are good. I also changed the spark plugs and changed an ignition coil. Im not sure if anyone has experienced the same thing. If you have please reply!
When my truck is hot it will stall out and take forever to start again I was told it was the fuel regulator but I don't know if anyone has any idea thank you
I have a 05 Chrysler 300c 5.7L hemi I change all the sensors and replaced throttle body coils spark plugs and plug cables I checked the fuel injectors the car would start but once' it starts it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas
I have a crank no start. Only happens when the temperature drops to 70 degrees. Once it gets to 90 degrees outside it will start. I notice it won't start when the security light is flashing. What can I tell these people at the dealership to check since as they won't listen to a woman. I have spent so much on diagnostics, batteries, fuel pump, starter, alternator, spark plugs, sensors, and key reprogramming and I am having the same problem. Help 😢
I replaced the fuel pump and throttle body and spark plugs but when I go to crank it it sounds like huge sucking cup noise won't start 2010 chevrolet impala been to shops but all they do is lie to make u spend money I just need to know what's the problem to fix it . Fuel line
You're going to need to learn to test your fuel injectors, and clean.... wait a minute it's making a big sucking noise are your lines crossed the in for the fuel and the out for the fuel
I have a 16 Hyundai with the GDI 2.4. I can get the car to start and run for a few minutes before the motor starts to choke and dies. It won't refire unless I unplug the fuel pump fuse and turn it over a few times. It has a lot of gas in the oil after only one start with new oil. Could this be the fuel pressure sensor or something worse?
Okay see if you can figure this one out… I figured you of all people on TH-cam could figure this problem out. Since I bought this vehicle from a friend, I like most thought it would be like most to be a simple fix. I consider myself “Cum laude” of common horse sense when it comes to working on things. I take my time and do research and do a lot of reading before spending money. Just when you buy a part to fix it and go to start it you sigh because it doesn’t fix and it’s back to researching. I have a 2010 Dodge Journey with as of now 171,343 miles on it. It has a 2.4L 4 cylinder for an engine. I’ve replaced a lot of parts and I will list them. Throttle body Both cam sensors Crank sensor New battery (2 weeks ago) All fuel injectors Purge valve on firewall Fuel pump in tank New air filter Changed all plugs Changed all ignition coils Oil is clean and recently changed Just replaced the computer The codes that come up after driving after installing new computer are: -P0073 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Camshaft A -P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor -P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Bank 1 -P0073 (Repeat) -P0340 (Repeat) -P0365 (Repeat) Also the where I put my key fob into the module to start it and turn; it keeps on turn the starter over if I let go of the key fob. I know it’s that module but it’s too expensive to take it to a shop or dealership to get robbed. If I have to put too much more money into this then I’ll just hang onto it and buy another one. The issue is called hard starting. It does start but takes maybe the first or 3rd or even 5th attempt but when it does it’s purrs but like you said it simply just levels out everything that’s wrong.
also avoid car batteries that constantly have to be filled with lithium water or battery acid water. Any leak will really damage some parts and metal will corrode
I got no crank, all dash lights go out when I crank no sounds when you let go the key dash lights come back on. Dash states remove key starting disabled due to theft sustem
my car just have 3 weeks that the remote start dont not work l try to manny time yo see what is the problem' the battery is good' all the lights work' No Lights in the dash' the car can turn On if u inside but not with the remote start' l check every single doors are closet in nothing ldk what is the problem'
1995 Nissan 200sx no start was misfiring changed distributor cap and rotor plugs maf sensor car started misfire again after a week and shuts off idle at stops now we at no start point i took off the fuel filter no signs of clogs wtf i do now😢
My car doesn't start in first go but start after two to three time half crank... So i change new starter motor n new battery but still some... Please🙏 help
My car was running ok but at the light it started making a cranking noise then it shut off what can it be? When I try turning it on my rpm’s don’t go up and stay at 0
My o2 f150 crank and started fine just running very bad, extreme lack of pwer, backfiring and started knocking noise put it on a ramp to get under and investigate the sound and after driving it up that ramp it just wont start anymore still cranks but no start had to put it in neutral to push it back off the ramp. And now i cant figure out why tf it wont start. 😢
2009 subaroo impreza The car randomly stalls at low idle. Sometimes it will start in 20 min... sometimes starts hour or 2 sometimes won't start for couple days. During that time... no spark. And sometimes it starts. Zero codes. Once running runs 100% no issues... Will work sometimes for a month ... or two .. then will die again randomly. Has anyone had this????
I have 2002 BMW X5 4.4i it shut down but before it it told me STOP e gone oil levels low but they wasn’t and now it cranks but won’t start .. what do I do guys I need help bad 🤷♀️
i gotta crank no start on a 2005 volkswagen touareg, sprayed starter fluid in air box, tapped both fuel pumps and changed crankshaft sensor, relays and fuses good too...funny thing is when i unplug the throttle body it starts but shuts off after sputtering for a few seconds...any thoughts on this anybody?
Check under the car right by the doors sometimes it’s in the gas tank…look in your trunk and look for a 10” circle with 10 little bolts that the fuel pump inside of that is the filter or check under the backseat for the 10inch circle
Great video bro...My 95 Honda Accord EX will sometimes start then dies shortly after...Fuel pump,, filter,, spark plugs,, wires,, rotor button is all new & relay is clicking on...Any suggestions?
I own a 2003 mitsubishi lancer GLX, last night i went to the store it wouldnt start so i pushed it then started, i thought it had no fuel i filled the tank up, now the car cranks and wont start, tried every method i knew, no response from it
Anyone know if the battery can be a reason for this issue? Feel there were more but all these listed seemed complicated for me to follow along with not being smort
I've got a crank no start situation on my Audi A3 8L 1.6L petrol engine (engine code AVU). It doesn't start, only for the first 2 attempts, and only when warm. Not necessarily warm engine, but could be just a hot day! If I press the gas pedal while cranking the engine, it will start on first attempt. It doesn't keep happening for a while after it starts.This is an intermitent issue that's been bugging me for a couple of years now, and I still don't know what's causing it. No relevant codes stored on the ECU either. Any idea what's going on?
@slomo7118 Hey! Thank you very much for your reply. :) Yep, usually 3rd time is a charm. :)) Ooor, if I press the gas pedal, it starts right away. But it's not a healthy, joyful start. I know that's a poor way to describe an engine start, but I don't know how else to describe it lol. It's not like: "alright, let's go!" (like it is when it's cold outside). It's more like: "well, fine... If I have to go, then fine." It's not a healthy engine start. Then it works for a while, and then it reoccurs, under the same conditions. Maintenance should be ok. Also, it was doing that before the last maintenance as well, so it's not that. I'm pretty sure the issue is fuel-related. Either fuel pressure or...I don't know. I don't think it's the fuel pump itself...but I can't be 100% sure. Other people with identical issue on the same car (with no resolution unfortunately) also replaced the fuel pump (and many other components) and they said it didn't fix it for them. So I don't think that's the culprit. Battery is not the case because it was doing the same thing even before replacing the battery, and even with a new battery. Also, the battery has been tested in an auto shop. So that's out of the question, as well. I was thinking it could be the fuel pressure regulator (if you wanna google it, should be part nr: 037 133 035 C) which sits at the end of the injector rail, right on top of the engine block. Which would explain why it misbehaves even when hot outside (it's at the top of the engine, so pretty exposed to outside heat). The engine doesn't even have to be on. But it also occurs when the engine has been running for a while, like running for 15-20 minutes, then parking somewhere, and when you try to restart, it does this. So, same issue, different conditions, but probably the same cause: heat. I'm thinking the engine is probably fine. But something on the surface is creatine this issue. I'm also considering taking it to a mechanic, but they say I might need to leave the car to them for diagnostic. Which makes sense of course. But also it creates some issues for me, cause now I have to get someone to come with me and drive me back, since the service center is not close by. Already replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors, temp sensors and timing belt (it was doing that even before the replacement, so it's not timing; also, if it were timing, why would it behave like this only when hot?). Compression...could be. But....even with engine technically cold? Why would it be only when hot? That's what's driving me crazy. :)) Cause it's not all the time. It's really easily to replicate. You can't get consistent results all the time. Anyway, I don't know how to check compression, and I don't have the right equipment for it. So, this might have to be done by a mechanic. In the meantime, I was thinking maybe replacing that fuel regulator.
@slomo7118 also, another interesting thing (not sure if it's related or not to the starting issue), is that, when hot outside, the car doesn't have the same "pull" as it does when cold. The engine does rev up a lot, but it's struggling to gain speed. Not sure if this detail makes a difference or not. I just thought I'd mention it in case it does. :)
@slomo7118 Ok, youtube is definitely doing something funny here. My previous comment just got deleted for no reason. Anyway....the car sounds like it's struggling to pull. I don't know how to describe it. But it's like a lot of noise but not enough pull. It's not like it doesn't move at all. But it's definitely a lot less than when the air is cold. So it could be both normal and...not normal at the same time. :)) Needs to be checked, for sure. :) Maybe it's even related to the first issue.
@slomo7118 Ok, this is becoming really annoying now. TH-cam just decided to delete my comment (shows like it's posted, but disappears on refresh). And I'm guessing it also doesn't send you a notification.
@slomo7118 Well yeah, it is. But there are also some answers to your questions. OK, let's see if I can send it piece by piece. The maintenance was done by a friend of mine. He's not a mechanic, at least not a certified one, but he does have a lot of experience working on cars. Certainly more than me. :)) But I'm also considering redoing it, in case there's something he missed, and there's a clog somewhere. But the question remains: assuming it's a clog, why would it behave like this only when hot? If anything, I think it should be more obvious when cold, because materials shrink and stuff. So, if anything, it shouldn't occur when hot, but it should occur when cold. When in fact, it's the other way around. It only occurs when hot.
I have crank no start on my LR discovery 3 only when warm starting. Starting perfectly fine cold when starting to drive. After roughly 1 hr driving and having a short break for refueling, toilet, snack… it won’t restart. Funny thing, if I manually link my second battery you hear a faster cranking and then it starts after a few seconds. LR garage couldn’t find the cause so I am still living with this annoying problem… any ideas someone? Thanks 🙏🏻
@@greenflame8398 they already replaced all kind of stuff, all injectors, high pressure pump, checked sensors… no success… I need a LR3 expert who takes on the challenge and I would pay double the price but I don’t want to spend hundreds or 2-3 thousand on diagnosing and randomly replacing things and in the end problem is not solved
You need to change the big battery ( bigger than normal like your car battery 430 CCA you need to change to 620 CCA or 650CCA battery then you can start the car easy ( big battery better and it’s not damaged your car)
@@ThienTran-ko5xyboth batteries are new so this shouldn’t be the problem, it worked fine before with the original battery I guess so problem must be something else
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:-/ your method to clean the throttle body is absolutely wrong 👎
Please learn the proper method, so you don't cause permanent damage to the throttle body.
😮😮😮😂
This is the best vehicle related video I’ve ever seen.
It took forever to make, thank you!!
Pro tip :
Watch the RPM while cranking, a little raise in RPM indicates computer receiving a signal from crank sensor. If the RPM is not moving at all then there's an issue with Crankshaft sensor or something related to it.
I replaced the coil, and crankshaft sensor, I’ve seen other videos say it could be the distributor cap, any other recommendations?
Not always. Some sensors are not sensitive enough to read an engine turning over at 100rpm. And some sensors only communicate when the engine actually starts.
This is a great comment many mechanics I know use the RPM test under “live data” on the obd scanner to check to see if the crankshaft sensor is working
Ima have to use this my Honda Accord won’t crank
Not all cars
Super helpful. Just grabbed an obd2 from amazon because we have an old 2005 cavalier we are trying to fix up and it wont turn over. changed the whole fuel system. Pump, filter, spark plugs.... Still won't turn over. But your video now leads me to believe its an airflow issue somewhere so I'll check that tomorrow while I wait for the obd2 reader to arive.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is one of the best videos I have found on here by far. Very informative and easy to understand. I subscribed as soon as the video was over. Looking forward to whatever else u have!
I’m working on a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L. Never had any issues with the car until recently. This baby has been a BEAST! 250k+ miles. Never once broke down on me. Ever. Started quickly every time. Drove smooth.
I had a massive oil leak for a very long time. I had to carry 5qts on me at all times. It was bad. I took it to a shop to see where it was coming from. They told me to scrap it bc it was leaking everywhere it could. $2500 quote to fix maybe 40% of the leak. I decided to look myself. I narrowed it down to the vvt solenoid gasket. Changed it and no more oil leak! $10 fixed what I was quoted would be $2500-6k.
My ac control head would lose power. I could wiggle the harness around and/or flip the control head upside down/sideways and sometimes get it to come back on, until it wouldn’t anymore. I got a used control head and had ice cold air!
After this I decided to change my plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Might as well give her extra loving since I got the rest fixed.
Only after this have I had issues. It’s currently in my driveway not wanting to start. Last time it did this, after it sat for a week or so, it started. I drove it the other day and it died on me. I had to pull it home. Wife was in tears before it was over. Great times. (Not from me being a dick lol)
I first started noticing issues when I was using the air conditioner. Sometimes my rpms would get weird and act like the car wanted to die but wouldn’t. Then, all the sudden the air was only cold while I was driving. It may be my fan assy. I’m still checking into that. If the condenser fan isn’t working while I’m idle, I do understand it will cause the air to get hot. Just mentioning this incase it’s relative to the issue.
Very sorry this is so long. I’m hoping someone reads this and knows what my issue is. Can the ac cause the car to have issues where it will die and not start? I wouldn’t think so but I’m obv not a mechanic. After I changed the plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, plus got the ac working is when I started having issues. I don’t think it’s the ignition parts bc I checked if I had spark and I do. Plus it was running beautifully. All the noises I heard before were gone. It was running silent. I don’t think I’m getting fuel. Is this a coincidence or did the load from the ac cause this issue to arise? I checked all my fuel pump fuses/relay and they’re good. No blown fuses, the relay clicks when I turn my key like it’s working. When I sprayed starter fluid into my intake hose, the car will start right away. Obv it won’t stay running more than a few second but it starts. I changed the fuel pump and pump filter last night. (Just the fuel pump, not the whole assy. My gas gauge is working so didn’t need the whole thing) and the car still won’t start! What am I missing? Noway all the injectors have failed all at once. Maybe I got a bad part from oreillys… it happens.. could it be the fuel pressure regulator causing it to die and not start? I stopped and got a fuel pressure tester to use tonight. So we’ll see if that helps me.
Sorry again for this looooong ass novel 😬 💀 😂
Very good vid. You missed out one other probable cause and thats a fuel cut off switch that is usually in the glove compartment. They can trip if you hit a pothole. Thanks for this vid. Cheers. 🍻👍👍
Smart!
@@easyautofix narr just used to scrapyards 😂😂😂😅
Is this on a tahoe 04 tahoe??
Can u send me link to a video
lol I didn't know that could trip with a pothole, but checking this let my car turn on 😆 thanks homie!
I have a 01' lexus GS 300 with an intermittent crank no start. Leaving me stranded often. I replaced crank shaft POS sensor and no deal. Had the idea to : change the air filter, clean the mass air flow sensor, and run injector cleaner through it. Once i did all that i no lobger get the crank no start problem. I was thinking there might have been a carbon blockage in the fuel rail or something but i really dont know.
Hope this helps someone
😅
I changed battery,starter,alternator, fuel pump and still cranking, and at the end i replace all sensors and after changing maf sensor it was solved.I didnt have any error on diagnostic or dash.
Thank you for sharing!
At least the parts cannon wasn't a massive L like what happens with a lot of people
@@slomo7118 2 of 10 will hard start and had long crank with start up.Its very hard to find what it caused it.
What censors did you change
@@hazy-jgonzalez2468 map,maf, 2 types camshaft position, fuel pressure, fuel regulator sensor, glow plugs.. that all can cause long start with no error on dash.
Use your deductive skill and Spray starter fluid (ether) down the intake duct. If the engine runs on that the spark system is working, (crank sensor OK) so your problem is in the fuel system. Next step would be to verify fuel pressure at the supply to the injector rail (Screw gauge onto test port), then, verify fuel injectors are pulsing. If a bad crank sensor, I think the engine controller doesn’t even know the engine is turning over so it won’t spark our pulse injectors, and won’t throw a code. If your fuel pump fails on the road, try kicking the fuel tank as your key on and off and it might start turning again to immediately drive home or to a shop. Hope that helps but that’s what I did to figure out if it was a fuel issue or a spark/ignition problem. 👍🏻
What if it doesn’t start with a starter fluid?
Friend's '02 Camry. Picked it up on the side of the road, crank no start. Throttle body was siezed, plugs are shot, threw codes for cyl 3 and 4 misfire before it died.
Got new plugs in, I flooded the cylinders, so those are drying rn. Tomorrow is a compression test. I fixed the throttlebody, it now moves as it should. I have air, fuel, and spark. Timing is currently unknown. If I can't get her going tomorrow, I'll hit timing next.
2005 Toyota Camry 6cy I have a major coolant leak coming from the side where the water pump is at. Im not sure if the car overheated as my mom was driving at the time. Car won't start it cranks but won't turn over.
I have a 2010 jeep commander sport 3.7 v6 engine & I just replaced the flywheel with the new original part because it had loud idle knock sounds but car was running fine before changing the flywheel so turns out I checked with an ob2 & got several codes in regards to issues of crank no start. So since I do know my way around vehicles to a certain extent I changed the following myself new coils & plugs, new camshaft & crankshaft, bought & changed new ecm, did a whole radiator flush & a catalyc converter, egr valve & fuel injector cleaner, new oxygen sensor, new starter, I took off the map sensor cleaned it, checked my battery & alternator, the fuel pump & oil pressure, the plugs & coils have spark, the crankshaft & camshaft are working good as well the truck has gas too but still crank no start the only thing I need to check now is the gas fuel filter to see if it's not clogged to replace it with a new one & checking egr valve see if it needs replacing but other than that idk what else to do on it any ideas on what it can be everything I've replaced is new & are original parts since it's my daughter's truck I Love working on the little stuff myself everything except for motors & transmissions lol but please let me know what you think it could be thanks🙏
My truck starts but when I give it gas it boggs out it run w either then stops
My car cranking only at morning and it’s very hard to start if weather is very cold or rainy. If one’s it’s start again it’s working properly. What’s the fault with this?
I know this is for cars that arent suuuper old BUT, I bought a project car from the 1980s that would crank but would not start. For those doing a project car that was not running and has no OBDll port try to first address the fuel system as stated in the video. Previous owner tried to get it to start and changed new spark plugs (checked by taking them out) and new distributor.I changed the fuel pump and fuel sender unit on my datsun along with the fuel filter. It wouldn't crank. I checked the fuses... didn't crank. I was lost until I took it to a mechanic and they found the battery was properly grounded. they simply moved the ground onto a metal part on the actual engine cover and BOOM it ran. I replaced the fuel injectors since it was more than 20 years since it ran and so far it was good. Most people don't mention a bad ground since they assume its wired correctly but to those who have a project car or a car that someone else worked on try that.
I think if we could all just pull the codes or would make our lives easier and we wouldn't need to research symptom. The codes I got before my ECU was reset due to dead battery but the codes helped me find my first problem. Now I have to find what issues the burned wire meet had free caused as such as frying the ECU or other electronic components.
Great video and very informative!
Hello, very informative video!
I had a mechanic check out my car because it was cranking but the car would not turn over. In his recent diagnosis, “ Low pressure feed pump seemed to be working the whole time. I was mistaken about the 2nd line being a return. It was a vapor line for evap emissions. The mechanical high pressure pump also seemed normal. It would start the car as soon as the pressure sensor started to see fuel pressure. The problem was it couldn’t spin fast enough with just the starting rpm, that’s why the cold start injector is needed. That initial rev of the engine spins the high pressure pump fast enough to start building pressure and the direct injectors take over. The cold start valve is essentially doing the same thing as us shooting a shot of starter fluid to get it going. “
He thinks its the fuel injection cold start valve, but I personally think its the fuel pump.
Thoughts?
Keep me posted
My vehicle only does a single crank. Replaced the starter, o'reillys said the battery is good
I had replaced my crank sensor because it was cracked and car started up let it idle for a while drove it around but when to turn it on again and back to square one
😂👍 I know the feeling. I got my mot tomorrow and sometimes my car wont start when warm. Only sometimes. Ive tried 3 starter motors. Changed the battery. Crank sensor. Mass airflow sensor. Cam sensor. changed the fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the throttle body. Changed the ignition switch. Tested all electrical earths. Replaced all relays. Replaced fuel injectors . Had it on a obd diagnostics with no faults. Changed the coil pack and plugs. Changed the Altanator. Replaced the fuel cutout switch. And its still doing it. 🤣🤣🤣 Im determained to sus this out. .. And i will. 😅
@@Alien_O1 yeah man hopefully you figure it out
Any luck yet?
@@Wa77ido it ended up being the key fob
I have changed the crank sensor , alternator, starter , and still no luck 😢
Great video. What if no crack to begin with ?
I have the perfect video for you right here sir : th-cam.com/video/Q_Xw6fmvFZQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
I am currently dealing with this same problem myself on my 05 Nissan Altima
•changed spark plugs and ignition coils
•changed both cam and crank sensor
•changed fuel pump myself
•changed thermostats (just to get em done)
•changed and cleaned out throttle body
And still won't turn over. My only suggestions are either clogged fuel injectors or a bad fuel rail. And I have to change my head gasket - on top of that.
😅 Im in same boat 😂👍 I know the feeling. I got my mot tomorrow and sometimes my car wont start when warm. Only sometimes. Ive tried few starter motors. Changed the battery. Crank sensor. Mass airflow sensor. Cam sensor. changed the fuel pump and filter. Cleaned the throttle body. Changed the ignition switch. Tested all electrical earths. Replaced all relays. Replaced fuel injectors . Had it on a obd diagnostics with no faults. Changed the coil pack and plugs. Changed the Alternator. Replaced the fuel cutout switch. Changed air filter. And its still doing it. 🤣🤣🤣 Im determained to sus this out. .. And i will. 😅 Update. Mot guy recons starter motor 🤔 that I should buy a new one we shall see. 👍👍👍
Have you looked for a fuel cut off switch. Usually in the glove compartment. Do some research where yours maybe. It is usually yellow and looks nothing like a switch. You never know. Good luck 👍👍
Have you all checked fuses and relays?
@@Alien_O1hahaha I'm in the same boat, changing my earths seemed to fix the problem a little... as in i do not have to wait 10 to 15 minutes before i can start the car again. But now it only takes 1 minute or 2 and the car starts right back up.
Car temperature reads fine on Obd scanner and thermal temp gun but i have to say feels a little hotter than a normal engine, so I'm guessing maybe that my water pump may seem fine outside but on the inside it has poor/No water circulation. So thats my next move this week.
@@mrshaqs8507I wouldn't unless you have flushed your coolent and the water temperature is over heating like a kettel boiling and the thermostat has been changed or the pump is making a screaming noise. because the waterpump usually is connected to the timing belt. And thats easy if you know how. but nacker the timing and its bye bye engine. 😉👍 buy a brand new starter moter. thats usually the issue.
I got an 05 PT CRUISER. Starts fine runs fine but when you turn off the ignition, it won't start until it cools down.changed FUEL pump, serviced the ECU, changed cam position sensor with OEM sensor. Changed Crank position sensor. I do have a code for O2 sensor but changed them not too long ago. I'm out of options at this point. Any thoughts on this?
Map sensor was covered in oil cleaned it n now runs better also had a loose hose clamp on the pipe that runs to egr valve. Still is a little sluggish from a stop. Should i just replace the sensor? Also can a crank position sensor cause a acceleration issue from a stop?
I have swift 2005 1st gen. petrol cng i have change ECM as well as crank sensor but still my car got stuck in between or once we parked after long run my car is only crank for next 10mins then start after 10 mins. Please give me a suggestion what should i do now?
Which sensor is the one in the middle of the transmission housing
Hi mate
I have a Great Wall Cannon 2.0 turbo diesel, and there was water in the fuel tank. GWM cleaned the tank and replaced the fuel filter, but they said three injectors failed. I took it of them because they wanted too much.
I replaced four injectors from another used car with the same engine. I coded the used injectors and bled the system from the fuel rails and the injectors.
But the car still won’t start. It used to start even when there was water in the tank, but it was running rough. Now, it just cranks.
I’m looking for some advice on a few things. Do you have any recommendations?
And only two codes came up in the scan tool. 183B.
Hi brother , mine cranks starts and shuts off!! What could be causing this ? Already replaced crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor??
Can you tell me where to get the tools that you are using and they're names please
Thank you ! it help a lot! 👍
Understand my car more,thanks for the video
Glad to hear it!
Very important to buy a code reader they're not that expensive it will save you time and money if you work on your own car
2011 Dodge Charger overheaded changed radiator cause it was leaking and now it cranks and no start also changed cooliant temp sensor cam shaft sensor still no start also checked for 🔥 its good fuel pump is working need help any suggestions 🙏
I'm getting a start with rough idle but no idea why. Checked spark plugs, coil packs, camshaft and crank sensor were new but out of sync.
Possible dirty stuck egr valve
More than likely idle control valve depending on what type of car you should be able to take it out and clean it by hand
Wat does it mean when it makes popping noise and don’t crank and it was freezing cold
I have a video on a no crank no start. This should help! th-cam.com/video/Q_Xw6fmvFZQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
Hello, I have a problem My MB E200 / 2007 - M271.956 with starting cold and even hot, after stopping for 1-2 hours it starts very hard. I have no errors on the tester and perfect operation. I replaced spark plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter, cam sensor, crankshaft sensor. What can it be? Thank you very much!
crank but no start was a dirty and clog air filter, replace the air filter, crank and started just fine. 2010 toyota camry v4
If the car is made before 1996 then what can I use to read codes? Or is that off the table?
You would need to find an OBD1 scanner.
2002 camry, 290k miles. Cut off while driving, no crank no start starter does not click, battery at full charge when car sut off and still is. Dash lights and headlights on. No blown fuses, no visibly burnt relays. Any thoughts?
It could be, the maf sensor, clean it 1rs, if it starts that's your problem.
Also, try hitting the starter with a hammer like 5x; car off, if it starts that is your problem.
It cut off while driving initially, and now only turns on dash lights and fuel pump. No noise anywhere else
@@newprep3661if it started,after cooling off, it maybe the crank position sensor, but at 200+ miles; the fuel pump, coils, spark plugs.
I have a 1998 Volkswagen Passat that won't start it will crank but no start and I have changed the spark plugs and put fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank what would make it not start
I have a 2002 acura mdx that just gives one click when i try to start it. First couple times it was loose or dirty battery tremonals. Now its doing the same but i put new terminals. Battery is @ 98%. Any idea how to resolve this ?
My vehicle will start but it’ll crank for about 3-5 seconds before turning over when it’s hot outside. They said the battery, alternator and starter are good. I also changed the spark plugs and changed an ignition coil. Im not sure if anyone has experienced the same thing. If you have please reply!
Great video
When my truck is hot it will stall out and take forever to start again I was told it was the fuel regulator but I don't know if anyone has any idea thank you
I have Hyundai Eon. Cold start has no issue. Issue comes after 70kms + driven.
How can you do a crank relearn after replacing the sensor without a scan tool…. Specially 2.4l 2007 sonata
Hi my Chevrolet spark cranks but doesn't start, we checked the plugs and the crank sensor is ok
Thank for the valuable information.. Its really worked 🙏🙏
My polo 1.6 2008 model is not starting after parking long hours,I need to try 3 or 4 times to start
I have a 05 Chrysler 300c 5.7L hemi
I change all the sensors and replaced throttle body coils spark plugs and plug cables I checked the fuel injectors the car would start but once' it starts it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas
Throttle position sensor are the idle control sensor right next to it
Thank you for this informative video Friend!
✌🕶🔧
Great video
Thanks!
I have a crank no start. Only happens when the temperature drops to 70 degrees. Once it gets to 90 degrees outside it will start. I notice it won't start when the security light is flashing. What can I tell these people at the dealership to check since as they won't listen to a woman. I have spent so much on diagnostics, batteries, fuel pump, starter, alternator, spark plugs, sensors, and key reprogramming and I am having the same problem. Help 😢
Crank sensor
If the security light flashing that’s a key or key fob communication issue
@@Mooseknuckle713 I have had it reprogrammed twice.
@@Mooseknuckle713 they have changed the crank sensor too
@@Mooseknuckle713what if my light doesn’t pop up at all?
Incredible video
Incredible comment
🥳🎊🎉✨Excellent video!!! ✨🎉🎊🥳
I learnt in a few minutes what mechanics do for me at a cost
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good tips , thanks
I replaced the fuel pump and throttle body and spark plugs but when I go to crank it it sounds like huge sucking cup noise won't start 2010 chevrolet impala been to shops but all they do is lie to make u spend money I just need to know what's the problem to fix it . Fuel line
You're going to need to learn to test your fuel injectors, and clean.... wait a minute it's making a big sucking noise are your lines crossed the in for the fuel and the out for the fuel
Great video
I have a 16 Hyundai with the GDI 2.4. I can get the car to start and run for a few minutes before the motor starts to choke and dies. It won't refire unless I unplug the fuel pump fuse and turn it over a few times. It has a lot of gas in the oil after only one start with new oil. Could this be the fuel pressure sensor or something worse?
P0301 misfire in cylinder 1
P09100 fuel rail pressure sensor
P0140 02 sensor 2
P2297 o2 sensor 1
Okay see if you can figure this one out…
I figured you of all people on TH-cam could figure this problem out. Since I bought this vehicle from a friend, I like most thought it would be like most to be a simple fix. I consider myself “Cum laude” of common horse sense when it comes to working on things. I take my time and do research and do a lot of reading before spending money. Just when you buy a part to fix it and go to start it you sigh because it doesn’t fix and it’s back to researching.
I have a 2010 Dodge Journey with as of now 171,343 miles on it. It has a 2.4L 4 cylinder for an engine. I’ve replaced a lot of parts and I will list them.
Throttle body
Both cam sensors
Crank sensor
New battery (2 weeks ago)
All fuel injectors
Purge valve on firewall
Fuel pump in tank
New air filter
Changed all plugs
Changed all ignition coils
Oil is clean and recently changed
Just replaced the computer
The codes that come up after driving after installing new computer are:
-P0073 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Camshaft A
-P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor
-P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Bank 1
-P0073 (Repeat)
-P0340 (Repeat)
-P0365 (Repeat)
Also the where I put my key fob into the module to start it and turn; it keeps on turn the starter over if I let go of the key fob. I know it’s that module but it’s too expensive to take it to a shop or dealership to get robbed. If I have to put too much more money into this then I’ll just hang onto it and buy another one. The issue is called hard starting. It does start but takes maybe the first or 3rd or even 5th attempt but when it does it’s purrs but like you said it simply just levels out everything that’s wrong.
also avoid car batteries that constantly have to be filled with lithium water or battery acid water. Any leak will really damage some parts and metal will corrode
U the best bro
I got no crank, all dash lights go out when I crank no sounds when you let go the key dash lights come back on. Dash states remove key starting disabled due to theft sustem
How can i contacts tpu directly please
my car just have 3 weeks that the remote start dont not work l try to manny time yo see what is the problem' the battery is good' all the lights work' No Lights in the dash' the car can turn On if u inside but not with the remote start' l check every single doors are closet in nothing ldk what is the problem'
The problem is your skim unit I believe I have to do with the alarm in the auto start and all that crap
What about fuses. My Compass dashboard says NO FUSE! What is that.
This was as helpful as a sharp stick to the eye
Lmaooo 😂
My car Nissan sunny 2005 model crank but no start After 30 minute strat on /what problem is this😢
Lights come on but wont crank up it might be the starter or alternator thanks
I have a video on no crank no start, it should help you out! th-cam.com/video/Q_Xw6fmvFZQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
I don’t have a crank and it doesn’t start either. What could the possibilities be?
I made a video on this explaining in detail. It should help you out! th-cam.com/video/Q_Xw6fmvFZQ/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=EasyAutoFix
1995 Nissan 200sx no start was misfiring changed distributor cap and rotor plugs maf sensor car started misfire again after a week and shuts off idle at stops now we at no start point i took off the fuel filter no signs of clogs wtf i do now😢
Check fuel pressure at the rail.
My car doesn't start in first go but start after two to three time half crank... So i change new starter motor n new battery but still some... Please🙏 help
Thanks
And thank you!
My car was running ok but at the light it started making a cranking noise then it shut off what can it be? When I try turning it on my rpm’s don’t go up and stay at 0
Ur crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced
My o2 f150 crank and started fine just running very bad, extreme lack of pwer, backfiring and started knocking noise put it on a ramp to get under and investigate the sound and after driving it up that ramp it just wont start anymore still cranks but no start had to put it in neutral to push it back off the ramp. And now i cant figure out why tf it wont start. 😢
Sounds like fuel pump
@@bobbylong4443 has brand new fuel pump and injectors/ a few other parts.
Idle control valve sounds like an air or a timing issue
Thx❤
2009 subaroo impreza
The car randomly stalls at low idle.
Sometimes it will start in 20 min... sometimes starts hour or 2 sometimes won't start for couple days.
During that time... no spark.
And sometimes it starts.
Zero codes.
Once running runs 100% no issues...
Will work sometimes for a month ... or two .. then will die again randomly.
Has anyone had this????
Thank you you told me everything I already know.
I have 2002 BMW X5 4.4i it shut down but before it it told me STOP e gone oil levels low but they wasn’t and now it cranks but won’t start .. what do I do guys I need help bad 🤷♀️
Bemierfourms
i gotta crank no start on a 2005 volkswagen touareg, sprayed starter fluid in air box, tapped both fuel pumps and changed crankshaft sensor, relays and fuses good too...funny thing is when i unplug the throttle body it starts but shuts off after sputtering for a few seconds...any thoughts on this anybody?
IAC , are Volkswagen Center Bentley so it would be the idle control valve or one of the components
Where is the fuel filter on a 2015 chevy equinox lt 2.4?? No one has a video on it and im trying to find it so i can replace my fuel filter
Check under the car right by the doors sometimes it’s in the gas tank…look in your trunk and look for a 10” circle with 10 little bolts that the fuel pump inside of that is the filter or check under the backseat for the 10inch circle
Under the car next to the gas tank.
i put new transmission in my car it started up with no problem, i cut it off and now its just cranking and won’t start
Great video bro...My 95 Honda Accord EX will sometimes start then dies shortly after...Fuel pump,, filter,, spark plugs,, wires,, rotor button is all new & relay is clicking on...Any suggestions?
I own a 2003 mitsubishi lancer GLX, last night i went to the store it wouldnt start so i pushed it then started, i thought it had no fuel i filled the tank up, now the car cranks and wont start, tried every method i knew, no response from it
Clutch petal safety button there's a little relay or whatever underneath your collection let you know it's fully engaged before you start your vehicle
I got an e30 convertible for $900 because of a Crank no start that was do to an exhaust that was packed full of dog food lol
Where is the crank shaft sensor in the engin Renault Megane 2000 model
On google
Anyone know if the battery can be a reason for this issue? Feel there were more but all these listed seemed complicated for me to follow along with not being smort
did youfind the solution
Normally if it is the battery, it won't try to crank. You will just hear clicking.
any video on click present but no crank, no start in a vehicle with startstop button
I've got a crank no start situation on my Audi A3 8L 1.6L petrol engine (engine code AVU). It doesn't start, only for the first 2 attempts, and only when warm. Not necessarily warm engine, but could be just a hot day! If I press the gas pedal while cranking the engine, it will start on first attempt. It doesn't keep happening for a while after it starts.This is an intermitent issue that's been bugging me for a couple of years now, and I still don't know what's causing it. No relevant codes stored on the ECU either. Any idea what's going on?
@slomo7118 Hey! Thank you very much for your reply. :)
Yep, usually 3rd time is a charm. :)) Ooor, if I press the gas pedal, it starts right away. But it's not a healthy, joyful start. I know that's a poor way to describe an engine start, but I don't know how else to describe it lol. It's not like: "alright, let's go!" (like it is when it's cold outside). It's more like: "well, fine... If I have to go, then fine." It's not a healthy engine start. Then it works for a while, and then it reoccurs, under the same conditions.
Maintenance should be ok. Also, it was doing that before the last maintenance as well, so it's not that.
I'm pretty sure the issue is fuel-related. Either fuel pressure or...I don't know. I don't think it's the fuel pump itself...but I can't be 100% sure. Other people with identical issue on the same car (with no resolution unfortunately) also replaced the fuel pump (and many other components) and they said it didn't fix it for them. So I don't think that's the culprit.
Battery is not the case because it was doing the same thing even before replacing the battery, and even with a new battery. Also, the battery has been tested in an auto shop. So that's out of the question, as well.
I was thinking it could be the fuel pressure regulator (if you wanna google it, should be part nr: 037 133 035 C) which sits at the end of the injector rail, right on top of the engine block. Which would explain why it misbehaves even when hot outside (it's at the top of the engine, so pretty exposed to outside heat). The engine doesn't even have to be on. But it also occurs when the engine has been running for a while, like running for 15-20 minutes, then parking somewhere, and when you try to restart, it does this. So, same issue, different conditions, but probably the same cause: heat. I'm thinking the engine is probably fine. But something on the surface is creatine this issue.
I'm also considering taking it to a mechanic, but they say I might need to leave the car to them for diagnostic. Which makes sense of course. But also it creates some issues for me, cause now I have to get someone to come with me and drive me back, since the service center is not close by.
Already replaced camshaft and crankshaft sensors, temp sensors and timing belt (it was doing that even before the replacement, so it's not timing; also, if it were timing, why would it behave like this only when hot?). Compression...could be. But....even with engine technically cold? Why would it be only when hot? That's what's driving me crazy. :)) Cause it's not all the time. It's really easily to replicate. You can't get consistent results all the time. Anyway, I don't know how to check compression, and I don't have the right equipment for it. So, this might have to be done by a mechanic. In the meantime, I was thinking maybe replacing that fuel regulator.
@slomo7118 also, another interesting thing (not sure if it's related or not to the starting issue), is that, when hot outside, the car doesn't have the same "pull" as it does when cold. The engine does rev up a lot, but it's struggling to gain speed. Not sure if this detail makes a difference or not. I just thought I'd mention it in case it does. :)
@slomo7118 Ok, youtube is definitely doing something funny here. My previous comment just got deleted for no reason.
Anyway....the car sounds like it's struggling to pull. I don't know how to describe it. But it's like a lot of noise but not enough pull. It's not like it doesn't move at all. But it's definitely a lot less than when the air is cold.
So it could be both normal and...not normal at the same time. :))
Needs to be checked, for sure. :) Maybe it's even related to the first issue.
@slomo7118 Ok, this is becoming really annoying now. TH-cam just decided to delete my comment (shows like it's posted, but disappears on refresh). And I'm guessing it also doesn't send you a notification.
@slomo7118 Well yeah, it is. But there are also some answers to your questions.
OK, let's see if I can send it piece by piece.
The maintenance was done by a friend of mine. He's not a mechanic, at least not a certified one, but he does have a lot of experience working on cars. Certainly more than me. :)) But I'm also considering redoing it, in case there's something he missed, and there's a clog somewhere.
But the question remains: assuming it's a clog, why would it behave like this only when hot? If anything, I think it should be more obvious when cold, because materials shrink and stuff. So, if anything, it shouldn't occur when hot, but it should occur when cold. When in fact, it's the other way around. It only occurs when hot.
My car experience only single crank what's problem
How can we scan it if it doesn't start?
The key has to be in the on position. This powers on the engine control module which in turn communicates with the scanner.
Good
Pls i need help my fiat strada 1.2 won't start no spark
I have a 2006 infiniti m35 cranks but won't start
Just would like to know if you know any shop who are honest about there work and not just out to rip customer off. located DMV
No spark cranking long...,help me plz Bmw 320i e90 model 2006
Bimerfourms
I just with there were honest mechanics who actually want to help people. It's like they're extinct.
Mine cranks 3 times and stops help 😢
Try spark plugs
Okay
I have crank no start on my LR discovery 3 only when warm starting. Starting perfectly fine cold when starting to drive. After roughly 1 hr driving and having a short break for refueling, toilet, snack… it won’t restart.
Funny thing, if I manually link my second battery you hear a faster cranking and then it starts after a few seconds.
LR garage couldn’t find the cause so I am still living with this annoying problem… any ideas someone? Thanks 🙏🏻
My wife's car was doing exactly what you are describing. It was the fuel pump. Car runs like a champ now.
@@greenflame8398 they already replaced all kind of stuff, all injectors, high pressure pump, checked sensors… no success… I need a LR3 expert who takes on the challenge and I would pay double the price but I don’t want to spend hundreds or 2-3 thousand on diagnosing and randomly replacing things and in the end problem is not solved
You need to change the big battery ( bigger than normal like your car battery 430 CCA you need to change to 620 CCA or 650CCA battery then you can start the car easy ( big battery better and it’s not damaged your car)
@@ptb83have you tried reprogramming it?
@@ThienTran-ko5xyboth batteries are new so this shouldn’t be the problem, it worked fine before with the original battery I guess so problem must be something else
Looks like you forgot cam crank sensor and timing diag