For those of you wondering, the correct seal driver tool is Rotunda tool numbers 205-935 for the actual seal driver, and 205-440 for the driver handle. Excellent tutorial as usual.
Seal Driver - as several folks below have pointed out, 3" PVC pipe will work for a driver. However, if you don't already have some 3" PVC to work with - buying even a short section is going to run $7.50 plus. If that's your situation (it was mine) - you can purchase a 3" cleanout adaptor with the cap as a whole fitting for $7.50 from Home Depot (or your favorite home improvement or plumbing supply) and you have a ready made driver. With the cleanout cap screwed in, you have something to drive and the open end will cover the lip of the seal perfectly. I'd suggest using a rubber mallet - to avoid breaking the fixture. If you don't break it - you can use it for a plumbing project - or your next 3" seal.
Awesome video, I just changed my rear diff fluid in my 2017 6.2, took it for a test drive and the pinion was splashing out small specks of fluid, realizing that i didn't wait long enough for the new fluid to drain out the fill plug, I tightened it up as fluid was still coming out. This caused excessive aeration and built up pressure causing the pinion seal to leak within 10-15 minutes of driving. Lesson learned and now I can use this video as a step by step to replace the pinion seal after i make sure that a little more fluid drains out of the fill hole. Thanks
Check vents too. I have an 11 F150 w/6.2 and the vent is in the bed frame support, all clogged with debris. Before I fixed it I got a new tube for the vent, no more leak. Going to change fluid next
Have to give you a thank you for this video ! Dealership wanted $500 😭 i had to buy a better impact wrench and the 1-11/16 socket but i did it at home for under $200 and the bulk of that money was for the tools ! Keep up the good work Sir ! 💪🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺😁
Thank you for taking into account that many may not have special tools. We have a very well outfitted shop, but certainly not every tool on the planet. AND, your discussion about work-arounds is a very valuable lesson as well. Great video. Thank you!!
Just replaced on 04 f350 this past weekend and was super easy!! The explanation in this video is perfect. The only thing that we had trouble was getting our hands on the exact puller from this video. Even O'Reilly's puller looks the same but is to small. So we had to use a puller that only had 2 points of attachment. Other than that this video is super informative.
You don’t need that puller to do this job. I found it way easier to use a 90° angle pick and hammer it into a groove then just pry with flat head around till it pops loose
Just finish mine on 2014, in my gravel driveway, laying on cardboard, lol. Your video was a great help. Took me about 2 hrs once I rounded up tools I needed. Thanks again.
Got a $10k quote from the Ford dealer so have my tyranny out in the driveway. Couple tips. Be sure to mark it like he shows in the video. I did, but didn't line them up on reassembly. Backlash was way off. Repulled and lined up and it was just like when I took it apart. Second, 1 5/8" NEW socket from Oreilys was WAY too tight. Couldn't get it off the nut. Had to borrow a very well used one of same size from a tech buddy. Worked perfect.
Had the exact same problem the 1 5/8 socket from autozone was just a little tight so i figured must be the chrome plateing so I tapped it on with a hammer turnes out my impact isn’t strong enough and now I can’t remove the socket…..I’m so tired of Chinese manufacturers I searched everywhere to confirm it’s 1 5/8 only found a couple forums about it but the consensus was indeed the bolt was 1 5/8s
Working for Uhaul we normally had extra exhaust tubing, from the E450s used that worked every time, just had a welded brace across one side so we could hit it in the center while installing it, so many leaking pinion seals haha
Just went thru this on my 17 f250 The autozone/orielys 1-5/8 is to tight buy the next size up Your gonna need a strong impact to take the nut off and on I had to buy a better gun got the (earthquake) from harbor freight Remember when hammering the flange on that this is a crush sleeve pinion so don’t bottom it out You should use lock tight on the pinion nut. Before you do anything… get a feel for your lash….just incase you deform the sleeve when installing your flange….and you have to go by feel and not your marks
In the past I have cut out a piece of wood with a hole in the center and tapped on it to drive the pinion seal in. I placed an old rag against the seal and then put the piece of wood against it to keep dirt, dust, wood shavings, etc... from getting into the seal as I tapped it with a hammer.
I would make a seal installation tool. Cut a piece of 2×6. Drill a 2" hole in it. Screw another 2×6 over the drilled part. Put it over the shaft and drive the seal in. The wood also stops you from damaging the seal.
When I was built swap buggies back in the 80’s I took a short 2x4 and then a jigsaw to cut the proper size hole ( back then you could get longer jig saw blades, you really can’t find them today) it worked really well. Buy then again it was a swamp buggy and not a real passenger vehicle. My favorite drive line combo was a 300 6 cylinder, I would bolt two auto trannys together, then a new process 205 gear, not belt driven, divorced transfercase with the original old school Dana 60 differentials, and warn manual locking hubs. Back then limited slip WAS limited slip and you didn’t have to apply brake pressure to get it to engage like you have do in the Tremor, it knew when it was slipping and then just locked up. Those were the days !!
PERFECT Timing! I was just under my truck (looking at the exhaust - and I noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking! Great to be able to see the whole procedure on video. Mine just failed around 215K miles (2011). Semi-silly question - but what kind of marker is that - in bright colors and tough enough tip to write on rusted surface?
Hi, thank you so much for the video...I will be doing this on my Excursion and my F 350 dually in coming weeks. I do not have any power tools but I have breaker bars from ranging from 1' to 4' ;) I may swing by HF and buy their electric torque wrench.
I like your method of install. 1 question. How do you know its not to lose or to tight besides your mark spots because will either way it effects the gear in the rear ended being to tight or lose?
It is easy to tell. The assembly has slop in it until the last full turn. Once you feel the slack start to come out check your mark. When you line it up the rotational slack should feel just like it did before you removed it.
Great video! I had this done at the end of last year. I looked at it and I was not sure if I had the right tools for the job. Looks like I may have made the right call for me, but next time I think I will give it a shot. Great info Sir!
Great video, and thank you for the information. Question for you would it be similar process for front diff pinion seal as well? Just came back from a trip in my 04 F550 and I developed a leak there. Thank you for sharing!
It’s to set the right amount of preload. There’s a crush washer u put in during new pinion install. It’s obviously already crushed as much as it would be, the torque values used during new install would likely put too much preload on bearings causing premature failure of the bearings.
Hey brother, i love your videos, thanks for teaching us so much, i noticed mine was leaking today, i work a lot, is this something that can wait few days of does it need to be done immediately? thanks in advance
When replacing the pinion nut - how do you know when you are on the correct rotation of the nut? Should you take an initial measurement from the flange to the housing for comparison? I get that ultimately we will line up our marks - but the mark on the nut will be lined up once every rotation. Maybe a silly question - perhaps more obvious when I am actually doing the work. But planing to take a measurement between the flange and housing before if that's possible. But would like to hear you comment on if this is/isn't needed in order to get the pinion nut back to the same location.
@@alexmartinez-iw3le - yes, thanks for that excellent suggestion. I found in my case (already done) that indeed it was obvious when the nut was in the right neighborhood. Was taking significantly more torque to move. I had some idea what the pre-load should "feel" like - and when I got close, it was obvious (to me). I do think counting threads is a great idea though.
Had this done on my 2009 6.4. 1 month later pinion bearings blew apart. I told the guy they went bad because they didn’t index and probably tightened the nut too far and had too much preload on it. Their heads exploded and told me that pinion bearings can just “go”
I just had to replace the pinion seal in my 2022 F250 at 8,000 miles! Any idea why it would have to be replaced so early? It seems premature. Is there any preventative measures that I should be taking?
Very cool repair! Learned a good bit from this. I don’t know why but I loved poppin off the link to the transmission to put it in neutral! Never knew that 👌🏼
Done many Jeep Dana 30 and 35s. My 04 Ford super duty never leaked once in 274k I owned it. Gots 21k on my 17 super duty, this one has a m275 rear end though. Is it pretty much the same or way different than the 10.5?
Husband having extremely hard time finding a wheel puller wide enough to pull pinion. Can you recommend one and vendor. Have purchased two but either the spread is not wide enough for the bolts or.... the stock bolts will not go thru the puller holes because of the diameter. Truck is down. May day, May day.
Big second on that. My contractor compressor couldn't keep up with my air impact needs. Took about 5 mins of hammering, waiting then hammering again. No way without a powerful impact of some kind.
Do you put any gasket sealer between the seal and the diff to stop any leaks in that manner? I did the 2 times so far and i have a seep but it's coming from the seal to the housing it looks like. Thanks
I have a 2020 f250 with only 8700 miles and mine is leaking already. I think i got a Friday afternoon built truck. It seems everytime I turn around I am having an issue with something.
Hey brother love everything about your show and your videos. I was wondering if you might know anything about Ford motor company and the upper oil pan issue? Do you think they’ll have a recall on that eventually? In reference to the sealant used.? Awesome channel awesome videos.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thanks for getting back to me so soon brother. I was just wondering because I thought about it a lot after you explained the issue of using the wrong sealant and you having to redo the upper oil pan seal every 20 to 30,000 miles because of it. Thanks for getting back to me so soon and have a great day.
Why did truck manufacturers get rid of the u-bolts that holds the u-joint in the yoke like the trucks back in the 70's....those bolts that just screws into the flange look like they will shear off if enough torque is applied
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I just did mine. When I backed the nut out the outer collar got kinda mangled from where it was staked. I put it back on bc I needed to get it back together. Didn't do locktite because you didn't. But when I restaked the nut, the collar tore a bit. Now I'm really worried it's gonna back off. Get a new nut? Or should be fine
For those of you wondering, the correct seal driver tool is Rotunda tool numbers 205-935 for the actual seal driver, and 205-440 for the driver handle. Excellent tutorial as usual.
Seal Driver - as several folks below have pointed out, 3" PVC pipe will work for a driver. However, if you don't already have some 3" PVC to work with - buying even a short section is going to run $7.50 plus.
If that's your situation (it was mine) - you can purchase a 3" cleanout adaptor with the cap as a whole fitting for $7.50 from Home Depot (or your favorite home improvement or plumbing supply) and you have a ready made driver. With the cleanout cap screwed in, you have something to drive and the open end will cover the lip of the seal perfectly.
I'd suggest using a rubber mallet - to avoid breaking the fixture. If you don't break it - you can use it for a plumbing project - or your next 3" seal.
Awesome video, I just changed my rear diff fluid in my 2017 6.2, took it for a test drive and the pinion was splashing out small specks of fluid, realizing that i didn't wait long enough for the new fluid to drain out the fill plug, I tightened it up as fluid was still coming out. This caused excessive aeration and built up pressure causing the pinion seal to leak within 10-15 minutes of driving. Lesson learned and now I can use this video as a step by step to replace the pinion seal after i make sure that a little more fluid drains out of the fill hole. Thanks
Check vents too. I have an 11 F150 w/6.2 and the vent is in the bed frame support, all clogged with debris. Before I fixed it I got a new tube for the vent, no more leak. Going to change fluid next
Have to give you a thank you for this video ! Dealership wanted $500 😭 i had to buy a better impact wrench and the 1-11/16 socket but i did it at home for under $200 and the bulk of that money was for the tools ! Keep up the good work Sir ! 💪🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺😁
Ayeeee! Thanks brah 🫡
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARoddidn't mark the pinion bolt before removal. How do I set the pinion preload?
Thank you for taking into account that many may not have special tools.
We have a very well outfitted shop, but certainly not every tool on the planet.
AND, your discussion about work-arounds is a very valuable lesson as well.
Great video. Thank you!!
We appreciate your comment see ya next round
Just replaced on 04 f350 this past weekend and was super easy!! The explanation in this video is perfect. The only thing that we had trouble was getting our hands on the exact puller from this video. Even O'Reilly's puller looks the same but is to small. So we had to use a puller that only had 2 points of attachment. Other than that this video is super informative.
You don’t need that puller to do this job. I found it way easier to use a 90° angle pick and hammer it into a groove then just pry with flat head around till it pops loose
Thanks for the video! Saved me $600 in labor. Much clearer than the service manual.
Nice
You should sue whoever quoted you $600 in labor. This job takes less than an hour for most.
Just finish mine on 2014, in my gravel driveway, laying on cardboard, lol. Your video was a great help. Took me about 2 hrs once I rounded up tools I needed. Thanks again.
Got a $10k quote from the Ford dealer so have my tyranny out in the driveway. Couple tips. Be sure to mark it like he shows in the video. I did, but didn't line them up on reassembly. Backlash was way off. Repulled and lined up and it was just like when I took it apart. Second, 1 5/8" NEW socket from Oreilys was WAY too tight. Couldn't get it off the nut. Had to borrow a very well used one of same size from a tech buddy. Worked perfect.
Had the exact same problem the 1 5/8 socket from autozone was just a little tight so i figured must be the chrome plateing so I tapped it on with a hammer turnes out my impact isn’t strong enough and now I can’t remove the socket…..I’m so tired of Chinese manufacturers I searched everywhere to confirm it’s 1 5/8 only found a couple forums about it but the consensus was indeed the bolt was 1 5/8s
Hopefully you fixed your tyranny and are left with liberty.
Easy
PVC pipe of similar diameter works great for installing seals
Good job man. Very informative for those who have never had the pleasure of this job.
I'm here for the knowledge this man sharing with us.
Brother we gotta catch up....hope your well 🫂🤙🤝
great video. should mention doing the front also because now mine started leaking 6 months after the back was done.
Working for Uhaul we normally had extra exhaust tubing, from the E450s used that worked every time, just had a welded brace across one side so we could hit it in the center while installing it, so many leaking pinion seals haha
Just went thru this on my 17 f250
The autozone/orielys 1-5/8 is to tight buy the next size up
Your gonna need a strong impact to take the nut off and on I had to buy a better gun got the (earthquake) from harbor freight
Remember when hammering the flange on that this is a crush sleeve pinion so don’t bottom it out
You should use lock tight on the pinion nut.
Before you do anything… get a feel for your lash….just incase you deform the sleeve when installing your flange….and you have to go by feel and not your marks
In the past I have cut out a piece of wood with a hole in the center and tapped on it to drive the pinion seal in. I placed an old rag against the seal and then put the piece of wood against it to keep dirt, dust, wood shavings, etc... from getting into the seal as I tapped it with a hammer.
I had to do this on my 2000 SD DRW with 34k. Thank goodness, I put it together just as you have. Love the channel!
Thanks brother!!!
I would make a seal installation tool. Cut a piece of 2×6. Drill a 2" hole in it. Screw another 2×6 over the drilled part. Put it over the shaft and drive the seal in. The wood also stops you from damaging the seal.
When I was built swap buggies back in the 80’s I took a short 2x4 and then a jigsaw to cut the proper size hole ( back then you could get longer jig saw blades, you really can’t find them today) it worked really well. Buy then again it was a swamp buggy and not a real passenger vehicle. My favorite drive line combo was a 300 6 cylinder, I would bolt two auto trannys together, then a new process 205 gear, not belt driven, divorced transfercase with the original old school Dana 60 differentials, and warn manual locking hubs. Back then limited slip WAS limited slip and you didn’t have to apply brake pressure to get it to engage like you have do in the Tremor, it knew when it was slipping and then just locked up. Those were the days !!
When driving in seal I did not have large socket so I used a piece of 3 in pvc pipe pvc coupling sch 40
Great work around!
I will be doing this per your step by step instruction to my 2008 F350. I am assuming it is the same for the Diesel SW version.
Yepp, gas or diesel
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Starting my 2008 F350 Diesel's Pinion Seal right now with laptop next to me for step by step instruction!
🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
My "goto" for seal removal is a bodywork slide hammer. I hammer it in to start the screw then slid hammer it right out.
You know I dont like cummins...
PERFECT Timing! I was just under my truck (looking at the exhaust - and I noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking!
Great to be able to see the whole procedure on video. Mine just failed around 215K miles (2011).
Semi-silly question - but what kind of marker is that - in bright colors and tough enough tip to write on rusted surface?
Awesome, now you can refer back to thee video. Just an ol paint marker.
Do you ever use a little bit of shop air to make sure the vent is clear? I know that if the vent is obstructed the leaks will come right back.
Yepp, blew that thing out at the end
Good mention. Muddabber Wasps like to fill in the vent hole.
Just noticed my 19' leaking. Great video, ty.
This training video put me much at ease to do the pinion seal myself. Thank you .
Getting ready to do Chevy 2500 with sleeve and seal
Excellent tutorial I have a 2006 f250 with a leaking seal confident to tackle the project now 😊
Was there a crush washer that should have been changed and then torque the pion nut?
Hi, thank you so much for the video...I will be doing this on my Excursion and my F 350 dually in coming weeks. I do not have any power tools but I have breaker bars from ranging from 1' to 4' ;) I may swing by HF and buy their electric torque wrench.
Did it on my late 99 with the 10.5. Went about like yours did wish you had put this video out 5 years ago lol. Good job ptt
😝😝😝 always late to tha pwarty
What about taking a few pieces of 2x6 and drilling a hole to accommodate the shaft, Stacking them, and using them to drive the seal in?
Absolutely
My e450 seal is leaking, only 12.5k miles on it :/ glad I found this video.
I like your method of install. 1 question. How do you know its not to lose or to tight besides your mark spots because will either way it effects the gear in the rear ended being to tight or lose?
Cuz that nut is stoppin. If i were to have gone further my mark would have been off. Have to use ALL your senses
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod ah ha. Thanks, good point.
😉😉🤙🤙
It is easy to tell. The assembly has slop in it until the last full turn. Once you feel the slack start to come out check your mark. When you line it up the rotational slack should feel just like it did before you removed it.
Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t you need to change the flange nut since it’s now damaged from the locking points?
No
Great video! I had this done at the end of last year. I looked at it and I was not sure if I had the right tools for the job. Looks like I may have made the right call for me, but next time I think I will give it a shot. Great info Sir!
Awesome
How much did it cost you, if you don't mind me asking?
Great video, and thank you for the information. Question for you would it be similar process for front diff pinion seal as well? Just came back from a trip in my 04 F550 and I developed a leak there. Thank you for sharing!
It wld
greatly appreciate this video - i have a 2017 powerstroke and this seal started leaking a couple weeks ago. i will be doing this at home in my garage.
Same 17 with 40,000
You don't replace the nut?
How is indexing the nut better and tightening it until the marks line up better than using a torque wrench on reassembly?
It’s to set the right amount of preload. There’s a crush washer u put in during new pinion install. It’s obviously already crushed as much as it would be, the torque values used during new install would likely put too much preload on bearings causing premature failure of the bearings.
Man, you can only hope your local Ford Tech is as through as ARod…👊🏻🇺🇸
Ur my only hope obi1
RIGHT
Agreed
Mine definitely isn't. 3 times ive had to go back and put everything together correctly
Nice video. Got me to go out and take a look under my truck. All dry, and will use this knowledge in the future.
Finally some 1 who did
Thanks for the video, I'm going to be doing this next week when my parts arrive.
Hey brother, i love your videos, thanks for teaching us so much, i noticed mine was leaking today, i work a lot, is this something that can wait few days of does it need to be done immediately? thanks in advance
Better keep it full then
This is next on the list for me with the old 7.3. Great video!
Thanks pal
Mine keeps leaking done it 4 times since a shop put 4:30’s in front and rear axles leak is only in the rear?🍻
I know its an l know its an old video, but is it the same process for the 2017 F450?
Pretty much
When replacing the pinion nut - how do you know when you are on the correct rotation of the nut?
Should you take an initial measurement from the flange to the housing for comparison?
I get that ultimately we will line up our marks - but the mark on the nut will be lined up once every rotation.
Maybe a silly question - perhaps more obvious when I am actually doing the work. But planing to take a measurement between the flange and housing before if that's possible.
But would like to hear you comment on if this is/isn't needed in order to get the pinion nut back to the same location.
We went over that in the comments
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod sorry - I'll read through them to find - my bad.
Thank u sir
You can also count the threads to help you
@@alexmartinez-iw3le - yes, thanks for that excellent suggestion.
I found in my case (already done) that indeed it was obvious when the nut was in the right neighborhood. Was taking significantly more torque to move. I had some idea what the pre-load should "feel" like - and when I got close, it was obvious (to me).
I do think counting threads is a great idea though.
Please tell me how you can get the axle lined up if you didn't mark the line on it from the start?
Ooooooof then ya gotta follow the whole procedure for setting up the rear end...pinion pre load
Is there a specific video for a 2002 F350 rear differential seal?
Great video! Have you done a video on a ignition kill switch? If not, could you please?
U have to email us at killswitchmeptt at G mail dot com
looking good brotha
do you check the pinion backlash?
Can’t find a video for a 05 6.0 F-250 would this be the same process for that truck?
Same!
Awesome thank you mines leaking like a bad habit haha
i got dana 80 with big 16 in brakes on my 450 2011 .its suppose to be a dana s 110 ,with 16 in brakes ,!!!
What do you do when that spring pops out? Are you not supposed to just lose it or is there a step for replacing it?
Had this done on my 2009 6.4. 1 month later pinion bearings blew apart. I told the guy they went bad because they didn’t index and probably tightened the nut too far and had too much preload on it. Their heads exploded and told me that pinion bearings can just “go”
🤔
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh yeah they was a Ford dealer… if i would have known i would have done it myself
🤦♂️😔😔
same process for a 17+??? 6.2 aswell bout to take on my fathers truck
I just had to replace the pinion seal in my 2022 F250 at 8,000 miles! Any idea why it would have to be replaced so early? It seems premature. Is there any preventative measures that I should be taking?
For reallll?
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodsame process? bout to take on my old man's 17 6.2 350
Very cool repair! Learned a good bit from this. I don’t know why but I loved poppin off the link to the transmission to put it in neutral! Never knew that 👌🏼
Neutral baby
Why do you perfer air over a nice electric impact?
I use a pvc coupling to drive seal all different size
Done many Jeep Dana 30 and 35s. My 04 Ford super duty never leaked once in 274k I owned it. Gots 21k on my 17 super duty, this one has a m275 rear end though. Is it pretty much the same or way different than the 10.5?
Yepp, same thang
Husband having extremely hard time finding a wheel puller wide enough to pull pinion. Can you recommend one and vendor. Have purchased two but either the spread is not wide enough for the bolts or.... the stock bolts will not go thru the puller holes because of the diameter. Truck is down. May day, May day.
Maybe a tool truck would have a puller
Great job on that repair!!!
Cool ARod. So far both of my dog's are dry as a bone. But good info.
Late to the party but , pick up a 2lb slide hammer and make a "L" attachment ,pull seales all day.
Possible to do this without impact wrench/air or would you advise against doing with only hand tools?
Naw man ur gonna need power
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod appreciate that!
Big second on that. My contractor compressor couldn't keep up with my air impact needs. Took about 5 mins of hammering, waiting then hammering again. No way without a powerful impact of some kind.
No joke
@@justinthomas3253 Appreciate that!
Do you put any gasket sealer between the seal and the diff to stop any leaks in that manner? I did the 2 times so far and i have a seep but it's coming from the seal to the housing it looks like. Thanks
They shld be installed dry.
I have a 2020 f250 with only 8700 miles and mine is leaking already. I think i got a Friday afternoon built truck. It seems everytime I turn around I am having an issue with something.
Hmmmmm
Just so happens my 2012 is leaking a little and I was getting ready to tackle it this weekend
Yeeee haw
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod it should be a large time. Few bolts here few beers there, who knows what could happen
Where u located, need my rear differential service done, got 2014 F350 6.7 diesel, dually, it has 240,000 mi
Detroit
Thank you for another great informative video...
U bet brotha
Hey brother love everything about your show and your videos. I was wondering if you might know anything about Ford motor company and the upper oil pan issue? Do you think they’ll have a recall on that eventually? In reference to the sealant used.? Awesome channel awesome videos.
Thanks guy. There is no issue. Some leak some dont. I highly doubt there will be a recall
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thanks for getting back to me so soon brother. I was just wondering because I thought about it a lot after you explained the issue of using the wrong sealant and you having to redo the upper oil pan seal every 20 to 30,000 miles because of it. Thanks for getting back to me so soon and have a great day.
U too pal
Noticed mine leaking but want to try the cheapest and easiest option first, AT 205 reseal
Great video. Thanks
Is that a Saleen in the background?
Nopppe 94 GT
Nice vid. Going to do my pinion seal Pretty quick like
What holds that weight into place
I did this job in my 2015 in June followed the steps in this video, removal and Install went smoothly, but now the new seals leaking again. 😢
Did u use a ford seal
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 6.2L Gas Flex Fuel 4W 4D (Stock)
32k subs - lets get you to 40 by years end!! Wahoooooo. Then onward to the goal - 100k for the glass plaque!!!!!
Yeaaaaa boii
Hello sir how do I know what size pinion I have , I know i have the 3.31 gearing...
Beats me. I never been asked that. I don't know how to tell either
Nice work.
Is the pinion nut 1-5/8” on the M275 axle as well? 21 F350
That I'd have to look up
Hey how u no that the red dot on the nut is gone line back up ain't it's a serting way u have to screw it on in order for it to line back up with it
Count the revolutions of the nut
Muy trabajador el señor.👍
Great video and very helpful.
Nice job
I don't have the tools for that. How much should I expect to pay to have it done?
What are the torque specs for the 4 drive shaft bolts?
What is the torque spec for the pinion nut?
Clean job! I like it
yes i did my dana 80 i was luky i had a big socket as driver ,lolll
Nice!
DS$@#$&
Why did truck manufacturers get rid of the u-bolts that holds the u-joint in the yoke like the trucks back in the 70's....those bolts that just screws into the flange look like they will shear off if enough torque is applied
No new pinion nut or locktite?
Nope
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I just did mine. When I backed the nut out the outer collar got kinda mangled from where it was staked. I put it back on bc I needed to get it back together. Didn't do locktite because you didn't. But when I restaked the nut, the collar tore a bit. Now I'm really worried it's gonna back off. Get a new nut? Or should be fine
If u get a flat blade and stake it again, ull be fine
What size was Pinion nut
Can you just use some grease on the back of that seal?
Si