I've watched countless how-to videos while fixing cars/trucks. I wish your videos were the standard. I can't thank you enough for how much time you put into this video because you saved me a bunch. You really made it easy for the rest of us.
The best video possible on this. I spent hours looking at forums to be sure I was getting the correct stuff and knew what I was doing before tearing mine apart only to discover this video. Well done man!
@raincitywrench117 I'm doing the ball joints, wheel bearings and locking hub. After a failure. What is the seal number on the axle shaft at the end of the tube. The one that I got doesn't look like the original.
I watched about 30 videos collectively researching how to do all the frosnt suspension and seals on my 05 F350. For what's covered in your video, top notch! One of theeeee best on YT!
One item not done was to replace the differential tube seals were the axle goes into the tube. I'm overhauling my front end and have replaced every seal, bearings, studs, nuts, bolts, fluid on my 14 dana 60 front end. Already replaced all 5 ball joints and seals so far. Next is the axle u joints and seals, then radius arms and springs.
I’ve done this more than once on my driveway and in my home garage with the truck on jack stands. I wish I watched this video before I did it. I did buy the seal tool from Amazon. The hardest part for me was reinstalling the damn snap ring on both side axles. One took me 15 minutes and you just snapped it right in! Nice work!
key to this going easy, clean, clean, clean, lube, lube, lube, i use a large cotter pin with emery cloth on it with a drill to clean the axle joint journals, works great, having the seal installer is a must, i have both in my box, if i remember right, 2003 and under takes one style installer and 2004 and up is the second style installer, definite must have for the job, great info vid RCW, (even with the right tools, you had an easy one......lol), keep em coming my friend....
Thanks Kevin! I just ordered the small and medium lisle u-joint pullers today. They make the job go quicker. My last employer had them, will just keep adding to my tool arsenal. Damn good idea with the cotter pin, will try it out next time.
Thank You! I would say good to bad techs is 50/50. Of the 50% bad is lack of tools/experience & the other half don't care or aren't willing to go the extra mile.
This video was everything I needed to fix my auto locking hubs. What a feeling of accomplishment when you apply the vacuum to check everything and the hub is locked. 😂
MAN sure does feel great to see a Mechanic do a job you just did and not feel like you did a really piss poor job afterward lol! My passenger side on my '00 fought me for a week of me working on it at night after work. When I got out the MAPP torch I was starting to think maybe I ought to stick just to plumbing! But i reckon with enough force and on em you can get anything loose. I got fed up with it today and took my grinder to the U-Joint, and the ol bosch bulldog to the caps that were left over in the yokes lol. Destructive yet effective. I hope mine go in easy like yours did when I do it tomorrow man I'm tellin ya. Great video, wish I woulda seen this before my methods so at least I didn't feel like I was going crazy when I couldn't get that thing to break free
Hey, whatever works 🤷♂️ Hope it all went well. Some u-joints are a real PITA especially if it's been driven in the rustbelt. My first u-joint was replaced in the driveway on an International Scout back in high school 😂
What part number is the vacuum/wheel seal. I need to do the seal as it got destroyed when replacing the wheel hub. Now my auto 4x4 doesn’t work and the lockout is binding and very hard to turn. I think because the axle isn’t centered due to the busted vacuum seal, it makes the hub lock bind. Great video, would love to know a part number for that vacuum seal
Yes. It's deep inside the differential tube. Not sure on a 2003 but think the front cover has to be removed, carrier pulled and then the axle seal pressed out and back in from inside the pumpkin housing. Not a quick or easy job unfortunately 😢
First off great video. Very well explained! Second have a question need your advice/ opinion. I won’t take this as gold just need your thoughts. 2001 excursion, when i hit 50 their is a definite wobble/vibration up front. When braking definitely feel it. when turning yep. Upper ball joint is bad, u joint move. any thoughts?
First off, rotate the front tires to the back and see what happens. Second, jack each side on the front and pry up under tire to see if lower ball joints are loose. Also when it is lifted up make sure each front tire spins freely and a caliper is not hung up. Check each front u-joint and make sure there is no rust around the cups. If so then the u-joints could be binding. Good luck!!
Great video. I replaced the front wheel hubs on a 2017 f350. But I've noticed a growling noise after replacing the bearings. Is their a vaccuum line or proper way to put the 4x4 hub cover back on correctly? Thanks
Sounds like one of the front axles is spinning all the time. Jack each front tire off the ground, rotate tire while watching each axle. They shouldn't spin unless the hub is locked. You may have a sticky hub lock.
Thank You! The snap ring set I have is identical to this. I think proto made it for snap-on. Proto J361www.ebay.com/itm/284088376812?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=284088376812&targetid=1068323850430&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033404&poi=&campaignid=12593971817&mkgroupid=122682656871&rlsatarget=pla-1068323850430&abcId=9300522&merchantid=118890254&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyZmEBhCpARIsALIzmnI_O-sAkSDucIrrIQFGTg0BOCRXDm5Gu-KD5kJE8qdpoSZZ2VLSHhAaAlbxEALw_wcB
Really great video, yeah I miss Seattle no rust there.. was easy to do brakes and hubs..etc.. now I’m living in the salt belt in PA and it sucks need to buy kegs of never seize.. I noticed you pulled the u joint caps off without looking at the needle bearings I know those are very delicate.. also that dust seal on the inner didn’t look sealed when you pressed in the axel? Is it supposed to have that much of a gap? Again great video I’m about to pull my front axels after watching I suspect u joints.. keep making more videos your lighting and commentary are great 👍🏻
Pretty much need a cutting torch in Pennsylvania. The new u-joint caps are greased, the needle bearings will stick to the outside unless you drop the cap and yes I've done that before. The plastic cap that presses on the axle is just a guard to keep stuff like gravel from going inside. The axle seal is deep inside the tube which can't be seen in the video. I was real careful to hold the axle up so it does not scrape on the inside bottom of differential tube picking up dirt before it slides into the seal. I recently picked up a u-joint puller which makes this job way easier. Good luck to you! www.amazon.com/Tiger-Tool-Automotive-Universal-10105/dp/B000FN4NV4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoP6LBhBlEiwAvCcthJXDB2uS6QveN5WT8Rv--dSt4xcRmDK08t_xQKqjGvbF3XrhHhj8VBoC2SAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=548152218147&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033404&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4463199733923157068&hvtargid=kwd-335615626510&hydadcr=29035_10165969&keywords=u%2Bjoint%2Bremoval%2Btools&qid=1635820722&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1TTM1UEZGSEpDWVYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMjE3MzQyNUtYWElKS1NKRzgxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMTkxNjQzSzdRU0NVSDdWMFpMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Sweet...I need to replace the u-joints on the front axle of my 2001 Excursion so this video is a God-send; thanks for posting this! Question regarding the differential tube- is there a dust seal there? Should it be replaced? How is it removed? Do I use the OTC 6697 tool to drive the new one in place? Thanks in advance!
The axle seal is deep inside the tube and you won't have to mess with it. The OTC tool installs the large hub seal onto the axle and then seats it to the correct depth inside the Knuckle when the axle is reinstalled. There is a plastic ring at the end of the axle that acts as a dust shield so large debris won't enter the tube.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for replying...perhaps the plastic ring at the end of the axle tube is my concern; should that be replaced? Or should I leave it alone, too?
How important is that little plastic guard on the axle close to the ujoint ? My mechanic broke a piece off that shield when swapping out the inner differential seals 😮
It's a shield to keep large debris from getting into the axle tube. Dust and sand can still work it's way in but the seal is deep inside next to the housing. I guess a rock could bounce and wedge in between the axle and tube but I don't think you will have a problem.
What about the seal on the end “opposite of the vacuum seal”. Where you cleaned out with the rag on the serp tool? Is there not a bearing in the axle housing? Or is that lip seal just on the end of the shaft to keep debris out of the housing? I noticed mine looked pretty bad when I was changing the hub.
Correct. Plastic guard is just to keep large debris from entering the tube. Sand, dirt and water can still enter over time which is normal if truck is driven on gravel roads or out wheeling. The oil seal rides all the way inside the tube without a bearing. I have yet to see one of the internal oil seals fail and leak gear oil out the tube. It doesn't matter what the plastic guard looks like just as long as it's there 🙂
Yes, that's odd... I'm in the middle of doing mine today (99 F250 S.D.) What's even odder, is the axle housing tube is machined as if it is to receive a press-in seal. I've checked several sources, mine just takes a flimsey double rubber seal that presses on the axle shaft and "loosely" goes into the axle tube.
Hey bud, I got the tool No. 6697 (Axle shaft seal installer). The literature says 2005 and newer. I'm working on a 1999. Any idea if there's a difference? Wondering if I need to send this back to Amazon???
I believe you need #6695 205-429 tool www.amazon.com/Axle-Shaft-Seal-Installer-Tool/dp/B07Z5D6JYC/ref=asc_df_B07Z5D6JYC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693319229662&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4852600444531113043&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033389&hvtargid=pla-1948269742009&psc=1&mcid=c2cf40dcc3a63fad90c99aa5e8e4ddd2
@@raincitywrench117 they are toast. The vacuum lines and solenoid were fine. Both hubs are toast. Probably gonna just do the works, wheel bearings, ball joints, hubs, seals, maybe even u joints. One and dkne
Question…. I did this job about a month ago and the seal already failed. I just reinstalled a new one, but want to sanity check myself. I used the special tool to drive the new seal on and used it to drive it into the knuckle, but there was about 1mm of gap from the install tool and the knuckle flange. When the hub is installed, it should draw the axle in the rest of the way, correct? Or is that possibly why my seals are going bad? Is the hub not supposed to contact the seal at all? I figured it could touch the metal part of the seal since that part of the seal and the hub both rotate.
When installing axle, the tool needs to bottom out on the knuckle flange otherwise the seal will not be fully inserted. The hub should not touch the seal because in 2wd the the hub will turn but the axle will not rotate. Only in 4wd will both the hub and axle turn at same speed. The hub will not draw the axle into the differential. It sounds like the axle is not fully seating into the differential carrier when you are pressing in the seal. If it fails again, I would carefully inspect inside the axle tube to see if there is an obstruction. Or maybe wrong axle?
If it were the wheel bearing then it would make the noise going straight also. I would check to see if the front hubs are in lock mode. When in auto, the front driveshafts won't spin. If they spin in auto then something is wrong inside the hub.
@@raincitywrench117 I drilled it out and then couldn’t find one. I went to my local Ford dealer and they only sell them in a kit for $65. They found one in the spare parts bin and donated it to me.
Did you find it? Pretty sure it's FC3Z-3220-B www.oemford.parts/oem-parts/ford-axle-shaft-fc3z3220b?c=Zz1mcm9udC1kcml2ZS1heGxlJnM9YXhsZS1zaGFmdHMtYW5kLWpvaW50cyZsPTYmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89Zi0yNTAtc3VwZXItZHV0eSZ5PTIwMTkmdD14bCZlPTYtN2wtdjgtZGllc2Vs
The vacuum is just for the auto 4x4 function. The hubs still give you manual lock ability. My 2022 Super Duty had the hubs locked in from the factory and was noticing noise turning tight in parking lots before I realized they were locked in.
These hubs can be manually locked in by rotating the lever on the outside or if left in auto, they will be vacuum actuated when switching control to 4x4 on the dash.
@raincitywrench117 on a truck that has manual locking hubs the 4×4 knob on the dash only turns on the transfer case. There's no vacuum lines connected to your hub so it's just a inner knuckle seal correct?
Yes. If you turn the front driveline by hand, both front axle shafts will turn but when pickup is in 2wd the front driveline and axles will not turn unless it is placed in 4wd or the hubs are manually turned to "lock"
It's a royal PITA. Used an air hammer working on one side while a coworker was holding and tapping on the other side with a hammer. Once you get the seal to "bite" on the yoke then it can be gradually work it all the way on with a hammer while pounding in a circular fashion.
Hi Steve. Yep, I'm hourly. Worked flatrate for 24 years. My employer agreed to hourly for this gig. I do almost no preventative maintenance, completely opposite from my last job. Sales dept. just wants what's broken fixed plus they throw me the occasional comeback, problem child, screwup, last minute job, etc. Oh yea, almost forgot the warranties.
Outer Seal - Ford (5C3Z-3254-B) www.varsityfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-outer-seal-5c3z3254b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgOefBhDgARIsAMhqXA73u-YyNJnpS18VFmiJdiOPwMWHHs4ZcGnNA2dvoULejKh_uabs99EaAizPEALw_wcB
Damn I have to say this was an extremely well done video.
Showed exactly what was required to do to complete this repair. No BS.
I've watched countless how-to videos while fixing cars/trucks. I wish your videos were the standard. I can't thank you enough for how much time you put into this video because you saved me a bunch. You really made it easy for the rest of us.
The best video possible on this. I spent hours looking at forums to be sure I was getting the correct stuff and knew what I was doing before tearing mine apart only to discover this video. Well done man!
You're welcome!
@raincitywrench117 I'm doing the ball joints, wheel bearings and locking hub. After a failure. What is the seal number on the axle shaft at the end of the tube. The one that I got doesn't look like the original.
Thank you for this great video and demonstration. I hope that you continue with these repair videos on the Ford Pick-ups.
I watched about 30 videos collectively researching how to do all the frosnt suspension and seals on my 05 F350. For what's covered in your video, top notch! One of theeeee best on YT!
One item not done was to replace the differential tube seals were the axle goes into the tube. I'm overhauling my front end and have replaced every seal, bearings, studs, nuts, bolts, fluid on my 14 dana 60 front end. Already replaced all 5 ball joints and seals so far. Next is the axle u joints and seals, then radius arms and springs.
I’ve done this more than once on my driveway and in my home garage with the truck on jack stands. I wish I watched this video before I did it. I did buy the seal tool from Amazon. The hardest part for me was reinstalling the damn snap ring on both side axles. One took me 15 minutes and you just snapped it right in! Nice work!
The snap rings are a PITA without some heavy duty pliers 🙂
Very nice! I like that you tested the vacuum portion after completion. Great job!!!
Excellent video of a very professional mechanic
key to this going easy, clean, clean, clean, lube, lube, lube, i use a large cotter pin with emery cloth on it with a drill to clean the axle joint journals, works great, having the seal installer is a must, i have both in my box, if i remember right, 2003 and under takes one style installer and 2004 and up is the second style installer, definite must have for the job, great info vid RCW, (even with the right tools, you had an easy one......lol), keep em coming my friend....
Thanks Kevin! I just ordered the small and medium lisle u-joint pullers today. They make the job go quicker. My last employer had them, will just keep adding to my tool arsenal. Damn good idea with the cotter pin, will try it out next time.
Thank you so very much for the excellent demonstration. Restored my respect for dealer professionalism.
Thank You! I would say good to bad techs is 50/50. Of the 50% bad is lack of tools/experience & the other half don't care or aren't willing to go the extra mile.
How much was that special tool you ordered
2 pry bars on the back side of the axle shaft. And use the magnet on the back of the screw driver to get the snap ring out
If you remove the grease zerts the caps come off easier…..
Awesome video that’s some nice work!!!!!!
This video was everything I needed to fix my auto locking hubs. What a feeling of accomplishment when you apply the vacuum to check everything and the hub is locked. 😂
u can use the wheel bearing hub asmily to press it back in i have done it
If the ujoint was trashed. I guess you can torch it out too. But the ball joints press worked it magic. Thank you sir
Really great detailed how-to instructions. Subscribed!!! 👍👍
Did one Monday. He's right on point. Don't you just love Ford Engineering. All that for that seal that fails and makes noise.
What a great informative video, the best I have seen! Thank you!
Wow, thank you!
MAN sure does feel great to see a Mechanic do a job you just did and not feel like you did a really piss poor job afterward lol! My passenger side on my '00 fought me for a week of me working on it at night after work. When I got out the MAPP torch I was starting to think maybe I ought to stick just to plumbing! But i reckon with enough force and on em you can get anything loose. I got fed up with it today and took my grinder to the U-Joint, and the ol bosch bulldog to the caps that were left over in the yokes lol. Destructive yet effective. I hope mine go in easy like yours did when I do it tomorrow man I'm tellin ya. Great video, wish I woulda seen this before my methods so at least I didn't feel like I was going crazy when I couldn't get that thing to break free
Hey, whatever works 🤷♂️ Hope it all went well. Some u-joints are a real PITA especially if it's been driven in the rustbelt. My first u-joint was replaced in the driveway on an International Scout back in high school 😂
Damn man! You actually make that look fun. Realistically, what a pain in the ass!! I don’t know if I’ll attempt it. Thanks for the upload!
What part number is the vacuum/wheel seal. I need to do the seal as it got destroyed when replacing the wheel hub. Now my auto 4x4 doesn’t work and the lockout is binding and very hard to turn. I think because the axle isn’t centered due to the busted vacuum seal, it makes the hub lock bind. Great video, would love to know a part number for that vacuum seal
Wish I watched your video before I started😂
Nice complet video with out skipping any parts
Hi, nice video, I have a 2003 F350 and oil is coming out of the axle shaft housing, is there a seal that goes there on the front axle housing?
Yes. It's deep inside the differential tube. Not sure on a 2003 but think the front cover has to be removed, carrier pulled and then the axle seal pressed out and back in from inside the pumpkin housing. Not a quick or easy job unfortunately 😢
Far and above the best hub/u joint/seal video I've seen. Atta boy from me! Sub'ed.
Appreciate that!
First off great video. Very well explained! Second have a question need your advice/ opinion. I won’t take this as gold just need your thoughts.
2001 excursion, when i hit 50 their is a definite wobble/vibration up front. When braking definitely feel it. when turning yep. Upper ball joint is bad, u joint move. any thoughts?
First off, rotate the front tires to the back and see what happens. Second, jack each side on the front and pry up under tire to see if lower ball joints are loose. Also when it is lifted up make sure each front tire spins freely and a caliper is not hung up. Check each front u-joint and make sure there is no rust around the cups. If so then the u-joints could be binding. Good luck!!
Best video on TH-cam for this job Buddy!
Good Stuff, Great Tips👍🏿😀 2016 F250 XLT 4W 4D (Stock)
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video, I have the same issue with my 2019.
Didn't the front hubs have a 3 washer pack behind the snap ring? My 2002 F-250 has them...
No. The newer pickups don't use any shims. I think they stopped around 2010.
Bout to do this to my 2014 f350 next week. Great video, if you want to swing by my house that would be great 😂
😆
I like those snapring pliers, can you share the brand and part #?
Blue-Point PR50A. www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Retaining-Ring
Could you list the press and special tools you bought to do this job? I think my front hub seals are bad.
Nice video and job, mine needs new seals as well.
Thanks 👍
Use Dry Silicone spray. When it is wet, it is super slippery. But when it dries out in 20 minutes it is like a super-glue.
Great video. I replaced the front wheel hubs on a 2017 f350. But I've noticed a growling noise after replacing the bearings. Is their a vaccuum line or proper way to put the 4x4 hub cover back on correctly? Thanks
Sounds like one of the front axles is spinning all the time. Jack each front tire off the ground, rotate tire while watching each axle. They shouldn't spin unless the hub is locked. You may have a sticky hub lock.
Beautiful video. You should make more and more often. Any link to that ratcheting snap ring pliers?
Thank You! The snap ring set I have is identical to this. I think proto made it for snap-on. Proto J361www.ebay.com/itm/284088376812?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=284088376812&targetid=1068323850430&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033404&poi=&campaignid=12593971817&mkgroupid=122682656871&rlsatarget=pla-1068323850430&abcId=9300522&merchantid=118890254&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyZmEBhCpARIsALIzmnI_O-sAkSDucIrrIQFGTg0BOCRXDm5Gu-KD5kJE8qdpoSZZ2VLSHhAaAlbxEALw_wcB
Great job on the video. But I believe you may have put the seal on backwards.
Nope. It’s installed correctly. Black dust shield towards whee.
No way! LOL. Now I have to watch the video back. You may be right but it hasn't come back.
I do agree. Great video, but the seal is backwards. The thin metal ring does go toward the wheel.
Careful to SEE how old seal came off !!! I Believe he put seal on backwards...
Really great video, yeah I miss Seattle no rust there.. was easy to do brakes and hubs..etc.. now I’m living in the salt belt in PA and it sucks need to buy kegs of never seize.. I noticed you pulled the u joint caps off without looking at the needle bearings I know those are very delicate.. also that dust seal on the inner didn’t look sealed when you pressed in the axel? Is it supposed to have that much of a gap? Again great video I’m about to pull my front axels after watching I suspect u joints.. keep making more videos your lighting and commentary are great 👍🏻
Pretty much need a cutting torch in Pennsylvania. The new u-joint caps are greased, the needle bearings will stick to the outside unless you drop the cap and yes I've done that before.
The plastic cap that presses on the axle is just a guard to keep stuff like gravel from going inside. The axle seal is deep inside the tube which can't be seen in the video. I was real careful to hold the axle up so it does not scrape on the inside bottom of differential tube picking up dirt before it slides into the seal.
I recently picked up a u-joint puller which makes this job way easier. Good luck to you! www.amazon.com/Tiger-Tool-Automotive-Universal-10105/dp/B000FN4NV4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwoP6LBhBlEiwAvCcthJXDB2uS6QveN5WT8Rv--dSt4xcRmDK08t_xQKqjGvbF3XrhHhj8VBoC2SAQAvD_BwE&hvadid=548152218147&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033404&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4463199733923157068&hvtargid=kwd-335615626510&hydadcr=29035_10165969&keywords=u%2Bjoint%2Bremoval%2Btools&qid=1635820722&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1TTM1UEZGSEpDWVYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwMjE3MzQyNUtYWElKS1NKRzgxJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMTkxNjQzSzdRU0NVSDdWMFpMJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
I didn’t see the thrust washer?
that stuff looks pretty good rust free lol
The only rusted vehicles I see are from Canada or they are transplants from Montana, Illinois, New York, Pennsylvania, etc.
Sweet...I need to replace the u-joints on the front axle of my 2001 Excursion so this video is a God-send; thanks for posting this! Question regarding the differential tube- is there a dust seal there? Should it be replaced? How is it removed? Do I use the OTC 6697 tool to drive the new one in place? Thanks in advance!
The axle seal is deep inside the tube and you won't have to mess with it. The OTC tool installs the large hub seal onto the axle and then seats it to the correct depth inside the Knuckle when the axle is reinstalled. There is a plastic ring at the end of the axle that acts as a dust shield so large debris won't enter the tube.
@@raincitywrench117 Thanks for replying...perhaps the plastic ring at the end of the axle tube is my concern; should that be replaced? Or should I leave it alone, too?
heat and air hammer to get ujoints off...no chance of bending the ears
Best video out there 👍 that tool is a must for that repair 🧑🔧
How important is that little plastic guard on the axle close to the ujoint ? My mechanic broke a piece off that shield when swapping out the inner differential seals 😮
It's a shield to keep large debris from getting into the axle tube. Dust and sand can still work it's way in but the seal is deep inside next to the housing. I guess a rock could bounce and wedge in between the axle and tube but I don't think you will have a problem.
Putting axle shafts back in, can't get the splines to line up.
What about the seal on the end “opposite of the vacuum seal”. Where you cleaned out with the rag on the serp tool? Is there not a bearing in the axle housing? Or is that lip seal just on the end of the shaft to keep debris out of the housing? I noticed mine looked pretty bad when I was changing the hub.
Correct. Plastic guard is just to keep large debris from entering the tube. Sand, dirt and water can still enter over time which is normal if truck is driven on gravel roads or out wheeling. The oil seal rides all the way inside the tube without a bearing. I have yet to see one of the internal oil seals fail and leak gear oil out the tube. It doesn't matter what the plastic guard looks like just as long as it's there 🙂
Yes, that's odd... I'm in the middle of doing mine today (99 F250 S.D.) What's even odder, is the axle housing tube is machined as if it is to receive a press-in seal. I've checked several sources, mine just takes a flimsey double rubber seal that presses on the axle shaft and "loosely" goes into the axle tube.
Hey bud, I got the tool No. 6697 (Axle shaft seal installer). The literature says 2005 and newer. I'm working on a 1999. Any idea if there's a difference? Wondering if I need to send this back to Amazon???
I believe you need #6695 205-429 tool
www.amazon.com/Axle-Shaft-Seal-Installer-Tool/dp/B07Z5D6JYC/ref=asc_df_B07Z5D6JYC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693319229662&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4852600444531113043&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033389&hvtargid=pla-1948269742009&psc=1&mcid=c2cf40dcc3a63fad90c99aa5e8e4ddd2
how much time from start to finish on this job?
good demonstration thankyou
My excursion won’t hold vacuum on either spindle when I use a mighty vac. Must have a massive leak. Pump pump pump and nothing builds.
If they don't build vacuum fast and hold then yes they are toast. I feel your pain 😥 Not a quick easy job especially if everything is rusty.
@@raincitywrench117 they are toast. The vacuum lines and solenoid were fine. Both hubs are toast. Probably gonna just do the works, wheel bearings, ball joints, hubs, seals, maybe even u joints. One and dkne
Question…. I did this job about a month ago and the seal already failed. I just reinstalled a new one, but want to sanity check myself. I used the special tool to drive the new seal on and used it to drive it into the knuckle, but there was about 1mm of gap from the install tool and the knuckle flange. When the hub is installed, it should draw the axle in the rest of the way, correct? Or is that possibly why my seals are going bad? Is the hub not supposed to contact the seal at all? I figured it could touch the metal part of the seal since that part of the seal and the hub both rotate.
When installing axle, the tool needs to bottom out on the knuckle flange otherwise the seal will not be fully inserted. The hub should not touch the seal because in 2wd the the hub will turn but the axle will not rotate. Only in 4wd will both the hub and axle turn at same speed.
The hub will not draw the axle into the differential. It sounds like the axle is not fully seating into the differential carrier when you are pressing in the seal. If it fails again, I would carefully inspect inside the axle tube to see if there is an obstruction. Or maybe wrong axle?
My truck ratcheting or clicking, sound, moving and turning at the same time. Would that be caused by the same bearing issue?
If it were the wheel bearing then it would make the noise going straight also. I would check to see if the front hubs are in lock mode. When in auto, the front driveshafts won't spin. If they spin in auto then something is wrong inside the hub.
Great video
This tool will work on my 2014 ford f550 4x4 6.7? Let me know if is the same or I need a different one?...thanks...
OTC 6698 fits Ford F-450/550 Wheel Knuckle Vacuum Seal Installer 2006-up.
www.jegs.com/i/OTC+Tools/717/6698/10002/-1?gclid=CjwKCAjw6p-oBhAYEiwAgg2Pgqnnn4hKbzz27JjtQLrkN5GVC7Dw336OGvmXlbzw-IOiTTsQeiRiXxoCPfIQAvD_BwE
how about the alignment of the spline into the differential as you install? does is just self alighn???
Yea. Once it slips through the axle seal inside the tube it self centers.
What’s the name of the tool used for the seal
Can you share the name / product number of your master ball joint press c-clamp kit please? The big one.
OTC 6530 www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6530?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-tools&gclid=CjwKCAiA-vOsBhAAEiwAIWR0TdOnFGpLhsgGgpZZtVw0LbbhXQoTZRCGIVA2oxWIwrb6zebaANljyBoCDToQAvD_BwE
Thank you for a great video
I have been fitting that damn snap ring for over an hour and half and still can’t get it out.
It's a tough one. Hope you got it out.
@@raincitywrench117 I drilled it out and then couldn’t find one. I went to my local Ford dealer and they only sell them in a kit for $65. They found one in the spare parts bin and donated it to me.
good job on the video, good explanation !
The cups will come out easy if you don’t put the grease nipple on
Quick question: How long does it take to change both side vacuum hub seal on a F-250 super duty 2017 ?
Between 4-6 hours depending how rusted everything is.
Can u help me find the axle shaft part number or where i can find one for a 2019 f250 superduty 6.7 4x4 front driver side..
Did you find it? Pretty sure it's FC3Z-3220-B
www.oemford.parts/oem-parts/ford-axle-shaft-fc3z3220b?c=Zz1mcm9udC1kcml2ZS1heGxlJnM9YXhsZS1zaGFmdHMtYW5kLWpvaW50cyZsPTYmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89Zi0yNTAtc3VwZXItZHV0eSZ5PTIwMTkmdD14bCZlPTYtN2wtdjgtZGllc2Vs
Do we need to install the vacuum hub seal if we are running manual 4x4?
Yes. They will keep all the crud out from entering the locking hub but the seals don't need to hold vacuum if you are manually locking them in 🙂
If you have lock out hubs does the vacuum assist in engaging or is it just there for the auto hub option?
The vacuum is just for the auto 4x4 function. The hubs still give you manual lock ability. My 2022 Super Duty had the hubs locked in from the factory and was noticing noise turning tight in parking lots before I realized they were locked in.
@raincitywrench117 10-4 thanks.
WELL DONE THANKS
I just replaced the vacuum seal and need take it out again. If pry it out without damaging it. Can I reuse it ? Or do you recommend buying a new one ?
You can reuse but may be a real chore do not damage it.
Ok thank you.
How would it be a vacuum seal if its a manual locking hub?
These hubs can be manually locked in by rotating the lever on the outside or if left in auto, they will be vacuum actuated when switching control to 4x4 on the dash.
@raincitywrench117 on a truck that has manual locking hubs the 4×4 knob on the dash only turns on the transfer case. There's no vacuum lines connected to your hub so it's just a inner knuckle seal correct?
@@azeeninety55 If your setup doesn't have vacuum operated hubs then correct 👌
Hello I am trying to do the work
nice work....doing this tomorrow i have done the earlier ones a few times hey i subed
Awesome! Thank you!
not in a rust belt state stuff comes apart alot easy lol
Western Washington. Nothing is rusty here which is real nice. I can only imagine the horror stories that rust belt guys have 😂
When I put the shft back in, should it turn when I turn the drive shaft?
Yes. If you turn the front driveline by hand, both front axle shafts will turn but when pickup is in 2wd the front driveline and axles will not turn unless it is placed in 4wd or the hubs are manually turned to "lock"
Is that approximately the same job on a 2010?
Yep
Yes it is, same procedure.
Where are tie rods
Really???
Is this the same for a 2000 F350?
Pretty much the same procedure but will need 205-429 installer and 205-199 driver to install the seal
What is the tool called that seats the seal
6697 Wheel Knuckle Vacuum Oil Seal Installer
www.amazon.com/Wheel-Knuckle-Vacuum-Installer-Current/dp/B07ZD37CZ6/ref=asc_df_B07ZD37CZ6/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=424795251518&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14979249506072792723&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-899875214857&mcid=b21df32e9a693b7f9e4d57506e8de8c0&ref=&adgrpid=96227116502&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH50559Z0jAFjbEEVEKQ1YsOF9V0BLPLTciTT414S3fKQPEh3Z224zqcaAuUOEALw_wcB&th=1
How did you do it without that tool?
It's a royal PITA. Used an air hammer working on one side while a coworker was holding and tapping on the other side with a hammer. Once you get the seal to "bite" on the yoke then it can be gradually work it all the way on with a hammer while pounding in a circular fashion.
Do you have link for the seal press tool
Here you go: www.amazon.com/OTC-6697-Knuckle-Installer-Current/dp/B004FZ5ZJC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2HFXLR2UUDL44
Why the torch
Really helps to remove the u-joint cups. Sometimes they are completely bonded into the yoke.
@@raincitywrench117 thank you God bless you
are you hourly
Hi Steve. Yep, I'm hourly. Worked flatrate for 24 years. My employer agreed to hourly for this gig. I do almost no preventative maintenance, completely opposite from my last job. Sales dept. just wants what's broken fixed plus they throw me the occasional comeback, problem child, screwup, last minute job, etc. Oh yea, almost forgot the warranties.
Owner of truck still going a hard time putting in and out of 4wd manually. Not supposed to be not that hard.
Those manual locking caps get corrosion inside. I have to use pliers sometimes to get them to turn.
He didn't install a inner axle seal
22:35
U have the part number
Outer Seal - Ford (5C3Z-3254-B) www.varsityfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-outer-seal-5c3z3254b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiAgOefBhDgARIsAMhqXA73u-YyNJnpS18VFmiJdiOPwMWHHs4ZcGnNA2dvoULejKh_uabs99EaAizPEALw_wcB
Dude it's not that easy
Old u-joint ate up with grease.
s good a tutorial as money can buy. free
Great video
Great video