I've got a Tormek grinder and I epoxied a couple strong rare earth magnets to the outside of the water box. Pulls the metal filings out of the water and keeps them off the stone. Just dump the water and wipe out the filings with a rag.
Dear, great tips for using this sharpening machine. From what I observed, you sharpen the chisel, turning it in the opposite direction to the piece. From what I researched, this procedure is best suited for axes and rough pieces, as the wear on the tool and the Japanese stone is much greater. However, in the direction of the tool towards the rear, the sharpening stone lasts longer and the wear on the tool is less. The main manufacturer of this type of machine does not recommend sharpening tools on the side of the Japanese stone. With the exception of diamond wheels, they even have a jig for this operation. I hope I have contributed and I wish you success and a big hug from Brazil Said Choucair
you can feel the sharpness, just by softly and slowly dragging your thumb across the edge, but don't drag your thumb along the edge, unless you want to cut your thumb off. I hae been sharpening blades for over 54 years.and professionals never cut the hairs off their arms etc.to test the sharpness. do you get a grinding wheel dresser, with this machine ?
I saved up and got the same triton unit you have. Such a great investment, I couldn’t be happier with the ease of use, quality and *mostly* the repeatability of the grind angle that I get.
Good work Jordan. I use waterstones as one of these machines was out of my budget but at $300 it would be on par with a full set of water stones plus flattening plate so definitely a solution I would consider.
Jordan, I notice that the direction of rotation is towards the chisel first stage and away from it for the second stage, can you please explain is this how it should be ?
Great to see you back . . . like your sharpening method, been around forever, but I still like Robins' method, the one I first saw Paul Sellers use. Great video, great taste in music.
For my plane irons I use a 1200 grit diamond stone and then polish the bevel with 6,000 and 12,000 grit waterstones. My chisels I just strop them often while using them on a piece of kangaroo leather charged with CrOx green crayon. Every 6-10months I will take the chisels back to the stones to re-establish a flat back and bevel angles. The biggest chore with sharpening is taking the damn iron out of the plane and then having to put it back together again!
Apart from HSS four sided moulder knives and woodturning tools, I have never created a sharp edge ready to go to work directly from a grinder or wheel strop. I have hollow ground my chisels before, but the edge is still effectively a flat grind after refining the edge on stones. The "flat" is just much shorter than without hollow grinding. So as far as durability goes, I have no idea. It's too hard to tell anyways because with hand tools the cut depth and feed speed is far too variable to get any conclusive data from. I can say that on a four sided moulder with HSS knives, I could get 1000 lineal meters of Tassie Oak through before regrinding. That's because the motors always had the same RPM, the feed was always 10meters/min, and therefore the cut depth or chipload in this case was always the same. The only thing which stopped things to a halt was rocks. Bloody god damned rocks!!!! ARGH!!! 😡
Enjoyed the video Jordan, a good refresher on using the wet stone grinder. I use a similar method to you, but I thought Robin Lewis in his video was making the best of the tools he had available. My biggest problem child is the wood chisel I use to pry off cover strips etc as it often hits nails and when I do sharpen it, I have to grind a new edge first.
had you ever thought about adding into your channel a section highlighting your subs work you know the people you have inspired and what they have made I know others have done it but I think it would lift your subs a bit more and I for one would love my work shown to others and I be others would also and its all thanks to you and what you have inspired in us all. thanks mate
what paul said :p but with a hollow grind the secondary bevel isnt such a necessity so i dont worry about grinding it in, just honing it in with the strop is good enough for me
The burr is a tiny wire of metal that has been displaced to the opposite side of the edge with the grinding in one direction. It is also a good indicator that you have finished that stage of sharpening on that face.
When checking sharpness with your nail, the areas that catch are actually the sharp areas. The blade is trying to cut into the nail. The areas that glide over the nail is doing so because the blade is dull there.
I've got a Tormek grinder and I epoxied a couple strong rare earth magnets to the outside of the water box. Pulls the metal filings out of the water and keeps them off the stone. Just dump the water and wipe out the filings with a rag.
@Big Nasty mine did not.
Good tip! I have done the same with my Scheppach Tiger and it works a treat.
Dear, great tips for using this sharpening machine. From what I observed, you sharpen the chisel, turning it in the opposite direction to the piece. From what I researched, this procedure is best suited for axes and rough pieces, as the wear on the tool and the Japanese stone is much greater. However, in the direction of the tool towards the rear, the sharpening stone lasts longer and the wear on the tool is less. The main manufacturer of this type of machine does not recommend sharpening tools on the side of the Japanese stone. With the exception of diamond wheels, they even have a jig for this operation. I hope I have contributed and I wish you success and a big hug from Brazil Said Choucair
you can feel the sharpness, just by softly and slowly dragging your thumb across the edge, but don't drag your thumb along the edge, unless you want to cut your thumb off. I hae been sharpening blades for over 54 years.and professionals never cut the hairs off their arms etc.to test the sharpness.
do you get a grinding wheel dresser, with this machine ?
I saved up and got the same triton unit you have. Such a great investment, I couldn’t be happier with the ease of use, quality and *mostly* the repeatability of the grind angle that I get.
Good work Jordan. I use waterstones as one of these machines was out of my budget but at $300 it would be on par with a full set of water stones plus flattening plate so definitely a solution I would consider.
Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
Jordan, I notice that the direction of rotation is towards the chisel first stage and away from it for the second stage, can you please explain is this how it should be ?
Great to see you back . . . like your sharpening method, been around forever, but I still like Robins' method, the one I first saw Paul Sellers use. Great video, great taste in music.
Great sharpening video
Awesome video I just picked up a sharpener like this. As of now I use whetstones with a bevel jig. Take care my friend
How do you charge the leather strop? I’m new to this so pardon the newbie question
For my plane irons I use a 1200 grit diamond stone and then polish the bevel with 6,000 and 12,000 grit waterstones. My chisels I just strop them often while using them on a piece of kangaroo leather charged with CrOx green crayon. Every 6-10months I will take the chisels back to the stones to re-establish a flat back and bevel angles. The biggest chore with sharpening is taking the damn iron out of the plane and then having to put it back together again!
do you find that with the flat 'grind' from the stone method gives you a more durable edge?
Apart from HSS four sided moulder knives and woodturning tools, I have never created a sharp edge ready to go to work directly from a grinder or wheel strop. I have hollow ground my chisels before, but the edge is still effectively a flat grind after refining the edge on stones. The "flat" is just much shorter than without hollow grinding. So as far as durability goes, I have no idea. It's too hard to tell anyways because with hand tools the cut depth and feed speed is far too variable to get any conclusive data from. I can say that on a four sided moulder with HSS knives, I could get 1000 lineal meters of Tassie Oak through before regrinding. That's because the motors always had the same RPM, the feed was always 10meters/min, and therefore the cut depth or chipload in this case was always the same. The only thing which stopped things to a halt was rocks. Bloody god damned rocks!!!! ARGH!!! 😡
Enjoyed the video Jordan, a good refresher on using the wet stone grinder. I use a similar method to you, but I thought Robin Lewis in his video was making the best of the tools he had available. My biggest problem child is the wood chisel I use to pry off cover strips etc as it often hits nails and when I do sharpen it, I have to grind a new edge first.
about time the weekly's came back Jord we've missed you mate :-)
cheers mate! im really excited to get into youtube again!
had you ever thought about adding into your channel a section highlighting your subs work you know the people you have inspired and what they have made I know others have done it but I think it would lift your subs a bit more and I for one would love my work shown to others and I be others would also and its all thanks to you and what you have inspired in us all. thanks mate
Robert Lee that’s a great idea! I’ll implement it throughout the week. Thanks
Awesome! Got one after watching this lol. But where did you get your knife jig with the long handle? Couldn't find the same one on Amazon.
Hey what happen with that video about the laser you got from China?
Nicely done
Can you show how to sharpen knives without a jig.
how do i polish rough stones using this grinder?
Nice one. You don’t use a secondary bevel? Any reason. Not saying you should, I wouldn’t know. Just how I (a gross amateur) was shown.
Jord said he got the micro/secondary bevel from the leather wheel
what paul said :p but with a hollow grind the secondary bevel isnt such a necessity so i dont worry about grinding it in, just honing it in with the strop is good enough for me
You could make an adjustable stop on either side of that chisel mount to stop being able to push it over the edge
or slap a spring clamp on either side of the bar.
He was only being to quick and probably distracted, doing commentary, it should never happen, with care.
Not going to recommend the Scheppach TiGer? ;)
Who knew that something that couldn't get things sharp could leave such deep scars!
Can I use it on a boat?
I don't think the edge of a blade is worked hardened by sharpening it usually work hardening is done by hitting and deforming the metal.
Hey y'all my new website is now live for wooden surfboard and SUP kits, Check it out: www.DIYsurfboardkits.com.au
why dont buy aproper tool...?
Tormek!!
What a "Berr?" :)
The burr is a tiny wire of metal that has been displaced to the opposite side of the edge with the grinding in one direction. It is also a good indicator that you have finished that stage of sharpening on that face.
When checking sharpness with your nail, the areas that catch are actually the sharp areas. The blade is trying to cut into the nail. The areas that glide over the nail is doing so because the blade is dull there.