Hi Keith love seeing this quality of workmanship, where is the son to learn and inherit dads business,my automotive machine shop is still running but not with the type of guarantees I gave. Now at 80 yrs of age I get untold pleasure just watching the procedures, all the best Nev.
I really don't think you give yourself enough credit I enjoy your work and I think that was a very good job that's not a patch that's a very good repair
Keith, Have you considered pre-heating with a propane torch? With the size of the part, bringing it to ~500f+ with a simple weed burner might give you the results you're after without the O/A bill.
Keith, great repair as usual. Thanks for flashing my back to my days in the US Navy, where we painted everything with either PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, LIGHT or PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, DARK. I guess it was easier for the Bosun to have only two choices. A common saying was, "If it moves, salute it; if not, paint it."
The downside is when you acquire a piece of equipment from the Navy. I have a surplus 1966 Springfield 280 lathe that I'm restoring right now. There are so many layers of gray paint, I think I'm going to lose my mind.
Sometime in the way distant future, someone may turn that casting over and marvel at the GREAT repair and say, "I would love to have met the man who repaired this to as good as new."
I also really like using an oil based enamel on machinery. I've found that a 100mm (4") foam roller works really well for getting large areas covered quickly, and once you know what you are doing, you can sort of simulate a painted orange peel effect. The other advantage of a single pack enamel is because it takes so long to cure, overcoating windows are really easy to work with, so you can get two coats on over two days. I personally like a thin coat of red oxide primer on my machinery, but as you say Keith, it's all personal preference.
I like to braze cast iron too. I have an old welding book and it shows where to preheat on various shapes. It also shows the order of preheating and brazing a broken spoked wheel or pulley and where to preheat the rim for brazing each spoke.
Keith, I have to say that the brush finish that you have shown on your lathes, drill, etc. has looked far superior (at least on the video) to my spray finish on my Southbend Lathe restoration. I think your paint work looks very good. Gary, 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in N.W. Arkansas
the man talks sense. I can hear my dad saying "big bushy flame" and I think youre spot on about enamel. give it a month and its a nice finish. thanks for a great video again, see you next weekend.
I actually heard you slip up & use the phrase "ya'll" like a true southern!!! Good for you boy!! I hate to see southern folk on TH-cam that have been "yakee-mo-tized" into using the phase "you guys." Here in the south we have girls & gals (they are very beautiful) & they are NOT guys!!!
First Class Job. PS, you are right about no need to prime, only thing is to make sure you clean the casting real good and apply 2 coats of finish, lightly sanding between coats for better adhesion. ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Keith I know everybody has there own way of doing things and everything worked out for you , but if I would have been installing that plate and couldn't clamp it I would have install one screw, then center punch the other three, having the one screw clamp the plate for me...I'm not knocking your repair job it was a great job , and I just wanted to point out a clamp method on that plate which I'm sure just hadn't entered your mind at the time...you know how it is "everybody is a armchair quarterback"...nice repair two thumbs up !! Great video...!
I would have got the plate to actually sit flat onto the surface, so that it actually did something. In fact, I would have brazed the plate on there as well.
I don't know why but this has got to be my favorite repair and restore job since the Vance. No idea why, this was relatively tame compared to the Vance but it just had a good feel to it. Great job so far!
The curse of getting old and forgetful, I forgot what I wanted to say! I can say great job. I can't wait until it's together and I can see what the whole machine does
Looks like a good functional repair to me. You spent more time smoothing it down than I might have given what it was for, but might as well make it look as good as possible. I definitely agree on the brush vs sprayer. If it's strictly a functional part, I'd use a brush every time (a disposable one). It makes sense not needing the primer as well. This is not a surface that's going to get a lot of direct wear and no primer makes for easier touch ups down the road if needed. plus it's less to clean up and less time waiting for paint to dry. I'm sure not arguing with somebody with the years of experience you have with this. Right way or not, the way that gets the job done and works is often the best way.
One of the reasons for primer is that paint was very expensive 19th century through early 20th. Primer, not having all of the expensive color, was noticeably cheaper, so it was used as an undercoat. Additionally, back then, shops weren’t air conditioned, because it hadn’t been invented until the 1930’s, or so, and was very expensive. Factories couldn’t condition that much space, and so, leaded primers were used to prevent rusting, and to fill defects. Unless a machine is going to be subjected to heavy moisture, modern enamels are rust preventative enough.
The only time I have used primer is when I couldn’t get all the rust off. Your right brush on paint is fast and easy no clean up fills the pits better as well👍
Hi Keith, I was with you all the way to the dots for holes. I wouldnt bother with threads and bolts. I would have drilled 6 to 8 holes and c/s them and big gas torch to braze the entire under surface of the new plate. Because I can.
I have used the rose bud tip on large parts for years. Best tip for large parts. Down side the greater amount of acetylene and oxygen used because of the tip. Good luck too.
Kieth, that was a stroke of genius to make a pattern and have a casting made! The repair is fantastic. I usually spray paint most everything but unless I put several coats it is nowhere near as durable as a nice thick coat of brushed on enamel. I use enamel formulated for painting tractors, mainly because it will stick to dirt, oil, or other contaminates. After all when did some farmer ever clean his equipment to a spotless condition before painting it?
Another reason to brush, rather than spray, is that you can paint a custom color, without the bother of cleaning up a spray gun. Just toss the brush. See you next Saturday at the Bar-Z. Jon
Great video, and very useful info. Thanks. Also, let me thank you for having a very short intro and exit music. Some TH-camrs try to impress the viewers with their video production skills with minutes wasted on intro and exit footage.
I agree, I have started to hit the progress bar to skip past the intro music for those channels because I am not interested in watching fancy intro graphics and music for 45 seconds and credits roll at the end.
Great job, I like the plate, looks like it would work like a shock absorber for the cast iron. Lots of people will tell you what you did wrong, but most would never try to repair something back to usable condition. You are going to be getting jobs done and they're just complaining.
Tractor Supply use to sell a hardener to use with enamel paint .. I have used it with paint I painted lathes with and it really makes the paint harden nicely.. You get better gloss and the paint is much harder than without the hardener...I think the brand name is valspar.. Small can with plastic screw on top...Mike in Louisiana
Thanks Keith. Timely video for me. Im in the process of putting a Hardinge TM UM Mill together and have been looking for the best way to paint the mill and I think I am going to follow your preference of SW Enamel without primer. Great job thanks again.
Sherwin Williams has about the best DTM (direct to metal) out there, only issue I have seen is flashing and losing its gloss on a single coat. Really good adhesion properties.
I just used their Sher-Kem DTM to repaint two Snap-On boxes. Surprised how easy it was to get a nice finish, even with a $15 “disposable” Harbor Freight gravity feed HVLP spray gun. Time will tell how it holds up.
nice job keith ! i have been waiting for this vid for ages i was wondering how you would get over the missing piece . i have an old archdale drill that needs repairs of this nature . i would have peened the weld/braze as a little bit of a stress relief tactic and probably used a cutting torch for the weld/braze well we call it bronze welding here , brazing tends to refer to sweating a joint with brass , but we get the drifft of it all . cheers .
No problem with belt and suspenders,paint looks good after all it's there for protecting the metal right. So hopefully we can see this thing working soon , have you got a place picked out for it yet?
Very nice 👍 as always. What about the coplanarity of the feet to the circular surface? Perhaps it was checked and not covered on video, or the rest of the contraption allow you to compensate for that? Looking forward to seeing how it awl comes together
It was an assumption on my part that it would be desirable to have the feet bottoms be coplanar with the circular feature upper surface. Essentially, if they were coplanar, then when the feet rest on a level surface, the upper circular surfaces would be level as well.
Nice work on the brazed joint. I do not understand the sense of the small screws and the plate as a gusset at the bottom though. I would expect a brazed on gusset would give way more strength compared to the small screws. Do you have special reasons for the screws? Just to help me understand what type of goal should be achieved.
Keith. It’s too bad that your beautiful brazing job won’t hold since @chris0tube said in the last video that it won’t work because he’s an expert. 🤣😂 Great repair Keith. It should last a lifetime
Hi Keith love seeing this quality of workmanship, where is the son to learn and inherit dads business,my automotive machine shop is still running but not with the type of guarantees I gave. Now at 80 yrs of age I get untold pleasure just watching the procedures, all the best Nev.
Awesome repair Keith, a job to be proud of. Looks like it never was repaired.
I really don't think you give yourself enough credit I enjoy your work and I think that was a very good job that's not a patch that's a very good repair
Like your way of dealing with the disagreements before they happen... Polite but to the point. With you on brazing.... There's something satisfying
Looks really good Keith!
Keith, Have you considered pre-heating with a propane torch? With the size of the part, bringing it to ~500f+ with a simple weed burner might give you the results you're after without the O/A bill.
Keith, great repair as usual. Thanks for flashing my back to my days in the US Navy, where we painted everything with either PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, LIGHT or PAINT, ENAMEL, NAVY GRAY, DARK. I guess it was easier for the Bosun to have only two choices. A common saying was, "If it moves, salute it; if not, paint it."
Air Force added a stage, If it moves salute it, if it does not move pick it up, if you can not pick it up paint it.
The downside is when you acquire a piece of equipment from the Navy. I have a surplus 1966 Springfield 280 lathe that I'm restoring right now. There are so many layers of gray paint, I think I'm going to lose my mind.
Masterful work as always.
Spectacular repair.
This was a great series to watch and the results are stunning. Great work, as always!
Aesthetically & structurally, the restoration.....works better than is necessary..... Kudos!
Sometime in the way distant future, someone may turn that casting over and marvel at the GREAT repair and say, "I would love to have met the man who repaired this to as good as new."
GREAT repair job. I've never seen a brazed joint that big! Def well done!
I also really like using an oil based enamel on machinery. I've found that a 100mm (4") foam roller works really well for getting large areas covered quickly, and once you know what you are doing, you can sort of simulate a painted orange peel effect.
The other advantage of a single pack enamel is because it takes so long to cure, overcoating windows are really easy to work with, so you can get two coats on over two days.
I personally like a thin coat of red oxide primer on my machinery, but as you say Keith, it's all personal preference.
What an awesome job!
I like to braze cast iron too. I have an old welding book and it shows where to preheat on various shapes.
It also shows the order of preheating and brazing a broken spoked wheel or pulley and where to preheat the rim for brazing each spoke.
Happy Father's Day Kieth.
Keith,
I have to say that the brush finish that you have shown on your lathes, drill, etc. has looked far superior (at least on the video) to my spray finish on my Southbend Lathe restoration. I think your paint work looks very good.
Gary, 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in N.W. Arkansas
the man talks sense. I can hear my dad saying "big bushy flame" and I think youre spot on about enamel. give it a month and its a nice finish. thanks for a great video again, see you next weekend.
Perfectly fit for purpose.
great repair
I actually heard you slip up & use the phrase "ya'll" like a true southern!!! Good for you boy!! I hate to see southern folk on TH-cam that have been "yakee-mo-tized" into using the phase "you guys." Here in the south we have girls & gals (they are very beautiful) & they are NOT guys!!!
Your brazing is always first class. Great repair.
First Class Job. PS, you are right about no need to prime, only thing is to make sure you clean the casting real good and apply 2 coats of finish, lightly sanding between coats for better adhesion. ‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸
Keith I know everybody has there own way of doing things and everything worked out for you , but if I would have been installing that plate and couldn't clamp it I would have install one screw, then center punch the other three, having the one screw clamp the plate for me...I'm not knocking your repair job it was a great job , and I just wanted to point out a clamp method on that plate which I'm sure just hadn't entered your mind at the time...you know how it is "everybody is a armchair quarterback"...nice repair two thumbs up !! Great video...!
I would have use 3/8 or 5/16, since the screws will take the force from the 1/4 plate
I would have got the plate to actually sit flat onto the surface, so that it actually did something.
In fact, I would have brazed the plate on there as well.
Rose bud did fine job I used a cutting torch other day to braze hyd. line on tractor use what you got.
I don't know why but this has got to be my favorite repair and restore job since the Vance. No idea why, this was relatively tame compared to the Vance but it just had a good feel to it. Great job so far!
The curse of getting old and forgetful, I forgot what I wanted to say! I can say great job. I can't wait until it's together and I can see what the whole machine does
Looks like a good functional repair to me. You spent more time smoothing it down than I might have given what it was for, but might as well make it look as good as possible. I definitely agree on the brush vs sprayer. If it's strictly a functional part, I'd use a brush every time (a disposable one). It makes sense not needing the primer as well. This is not a surface that's going to get a lot of direct wear and no primer makes for easier touch ups down the road if needed. plus it's less to clean up and less time waiting for paint to dry. I'm sure not arguing with somebody with the years of experience you have with this. Right way or not, the way that gets the job done and works is often the best way.
I seem to remember the Lipton name in the ABANA circle. Very well thought of person, if it is the same person!
Excellent project!
Love your reinforcement plate idea...I am brushing paint on my logan lathe also...no overspray to worry about in my garage
One of the reasons for primer is that paint was very expensive 19th century through early 20th. Primer, not having all of the expensive color, was noticeably cheaper, so it was used as an undercoat. Additionally, back then, shops weren’t air conditioned, because it hadn’t been invented until the 1930’s, or so, and was very expensive. Factories couldn’t condition that much space, and so, leaded primers were used to prevent rusting, and to fill defects.
Unless a machine is going to be subjected to heavy moisture, modern enamels are rust preventative enough.
The only time I have used primer is when I couldn’t get all the rust off. Your right brush on paint is fast and easy no clean up fills the pits better as well👍
Hi Keith, I was with you all the way to the dots for holes.
I wouldnt bother with threads and bolts.
I would have drilled 6 to 8 holes and c/s them and big gas torch to braze the entire under surface of the new plate.
Because I can.
Nice video series
Anything other than oil based enamel and I feel like I'm painting with house paint. Nice job as usual.
How's paint
How's it sticking?
That was a fantastic repair.
Very good job, excellent job brazing
We "thumb'ed" up as many times as we could!!
Nice repair Keith. Great video. 👍
Beautiful job Keith
I have used the rose bud tip on large parts for years. Best tip for large parts. Down side the greater amount of acetylene and oxygen used because of the tip. Good luck too.
Very good TY Kieth.
Best part of brushing is no darned over spray!
No over spray and for something that small it just isn't worth it to get out the spray rig when all you need is a brush.
Nice job Keith 😊👍
Kieth, that was a stroke of genius to make a pattern and have a casting made! The repair is fantastic. I usually spray paint most everything but unless I put several coats it is nowhere near as durable as a nice thick coat of brushed on enamel. I use enamel formulated for painting tractors, mainly because it will stick to dirt, oil, or other contaminates. After all when did some farmer ever clean his equipment to a spotless condition before painting it?
Yeah, you’ve got to look, look hard, but you can see it. Maybe. Great job.
Wonderful fix. Keep up the good work!
Another reason to brush, rather than spray, is that you can paint a custom color, without the bother of cleaning up a spray gun. Just toss the brush. See you next Saturday at the Bar-Z. Jon
Great video, and very useful info. Thanks. Also, let me thank you for having a very short intro and exit music. Some TH-camrs try to impress the viewers with their video production skills with minutes wasted on intro and exit footage.
I agree, I have started to hit the progress bar to skip past the intro music for those channels because I am not interested in watching fancy intro graphics and music for 45 seconds and credits roll at the end.
I never thought of a mechanical reinforcement of a braze or weld. Terrific.
Great job, I like the plate, looks like it would work like a shock absorber for the cast iron. Lots of people will tell you what you did wrong, but most would never try to repair something back to usable condition. You are going to be getting jobs done and they're just complaining.
Great job!
Great Job Keith I really wanted to see this finished just to see what's possible with a cast iron repair.
Tractor Supply use to sell a hardener to use with enamel paint .. I have used it with paint I painted lathes with and it really makes the paint harden nicely.. You get better gloss and the paint is much harder than without the hardener...I think the brand name is valspar.. Small can with plastic screw on top...Mike in Louisiana
Nice Work turned out great.
Braze in the plate for consistent repair technology across the repair? maybe? Beautiful job
Thanks Keith. Timely video for me. Im in the process of putting a Hardinge TM UM Mill together and have been looking for the best way to paint the mill and I think I am going to follow your preference of SW Enamel without primer. Great job thanks again.
Enjoyed the video Keith, even the drillpress gray color. Thanks for sharing.
Great job Keith thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
Outstanding!
Nice job Keith. Top man!
Sherwin Williams has about the best DTM (direct to metal) out there, only issue I have seen is flashing and losing its gloss on a single coat. Really good adhesion properties.
I just used their Sher-Kem DTM to repaint two Snap-On boxes. Surprised how easy it was to get a nice finish, even with a $15 “disposable” Harbor Freight gravity feed HVLP spray gun. Time will tell how it holds up.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice repair as always.
Thanks Keith for sharing good content keep up the videos. Job well done 👍 👍👍
Excellent work done,
Looks nice!
nice job keith ! i have been waiting for this vid for ages i was wondering how you would get over the missing piece . i have an old archdale drill that needs repairs of this nature . i would have peened the weld/braze as a little bit of a stress relief tactic and probably used a cutting torch for the weld/braze well we call it bronze welding here , brazing tends to refer to sweating a joint with brass , but we get the drifft of it all . cheers .
Great job, thank you.
when are going to get band saw? an old one would be nice to rebuild. thanks for show. love it
Texaco used to hand paint their petrol tankers years ago
looking great! thanks for sharing!
Well done and thanks
Top job Keith, you are a clever boy.👍🇦🇺 Now we just have to learn how to change tyres/tires.😁
Looking good 👍
Nice job!
Thanks for the video.
Grate video, and it looks grate. Keep up the good work and video coming. I always learn a lot from your videos.
It wasn't a GRATE. It was a base PLATE.
Pro work, thank for sharing
Exactly, Keith, you need the heat and the rosebud is the only way...
Nice Job.
Uno aprende mucho viendo tus videos.
Muchas gracias !!!!!
Awesome job, I see your not afraid to show a skinned knuckle on your project
I love your videos, look forward to every one of them. Keep up the awesome work!
Enjoyed! Thanks!
Nice Job, quality
No problem with belt and suspenders,paint looks good after all it's there for protecting the metal right. So hopefully we can see this thing working soon , have you got a place picked out for it yet?
Very nice work! Thank you sir :-)
Great repair really it is . Well thought out . But you already know that.
My Best Tighe
Very nice 👍 as always. What about the coplanarity of the feet to the circular surface? Perhaps it was checked and not covered on video, or the rest of the contraption allow you to compensate for that? Looking forward to seeing how it awl comes together
This belongs to a universal table for a large radial drill. Before using the drill, the table will be trammed in.
It was an assumption on my part that it would be desirable to have the feet bottoms be coplanar with the circular feature upper surface. Essentially, if they were coplanar, then when the feet rest on a level surface, the upper circular surfaces would be level as well.
Great video! Is there a possibility that you do a shop tour of your facility for us newer viewers?
Nice!! Great job and video series... :-)
Nice work on the brazed joint.
I do not understand the sense of the small screws and the plate as a gusset at the bottom though. I would expect a brazed on gusset would give way more strength compared to the small screws. Do you have special reasons for the screws? Just to help me understand what type of goal should be achieved.
Keep brushing ķeith i find it quite satisfying
Nice repair. If it wasn't for that bit of brass on the machined face there, you'd never know it had been fixed.
That paint laid on that nice a brush was the way to go.
It is perfectly good BUT - the primer fills the roughness and the paint gets Very Smooth. The new part is less rought than the original casting
Keith. It’s too bad that your beautiful brazing job won’t hold since @chris0tube said in the last video that it won’t work because he’s an expert. 🤣😂
Great repair Keith. It should last a lifetime
Outstanding job..take a break.
Very nice repair, saving a valuable piece of equipment. Thanks for the share. Philip Ballman
Grande Keith omonimo del grandissimo Fenner