Best mechanic ever. It worked on my truck. Real thing no bull**it like other videos. He is keeping it short and helpful. DONT FORGET ABOUT THE BOLT IN EGR( the highest point ) or else it will overheat.
Your comments and video were spot on for my 2010, 6.7l. I would not have done the job, had I not found this video. I did go with a Cummins thermostat as I understand that when it fails it fails open (exactly how mine failed)......big difference. Thanks very much.
I just noticed mine is leaking around the thermostat right now. I have an '09 and it started running hot yesterday. I had to hook up to my trailer today and I got over 220 which is where my defuel is set. Finally found out where it was leaking but I didn't know how to do the thermostat. Good vid. I hope that fixes the issue I'm having.
Top Tip..... yes a short length of rubber hose to stop splashing out of the bucket, that glycol in the anti freeze is poisonous, just prop the hose over the outlet and let it hang down into the bucket.No more splashing..... done my fair share...... Regards Charles
That was good dude you didn't sit there and blah blah blah about your effing dog and take us on a tour of your tomato garden thank you keep them short to-the-point like that and I'll keep watching
That drives me crazy too! People have a 15min video on what can be a 3 minute video because they feel we want to see a fancy intro graphic and they talk about all kinds of stuff for 10 minutes or more before video-ing what we came here for. Then they all feel we need to here megadeath drowning out the narration.
Lol I just watched some idiot talk for 15 minutes about his wife, dog, dog pissing on snow and a tour of his chicken coop before telling me bleeding the air didn’t work. I wanted to slap him. Should have been a 2 min video.
Another great video. I screwed up and used a couple of the longer 25mm bolts of the four that hold the upper plastic shield in place. When almost done two of the bolts were to short for up on top. Had to go back and remove the longer bolts from the thermostat housing. Dropped one down inside the radiator shroud. While recovering that Bolt I bumped over an open jug of coolant. One of them kind of days.
Good video. Ditto on the radiator cap being replaced. The 4th Gen 6.7 should be heating up to 200F not 190F. Might want to keep an eye on that. I noticed, those crappy Chinese connectors fell out of your EGR, mine did too. ;) (that and a Banks Cold Air Intake and Banks Monster Exhaust pushed my MPG up 4 MPG. We have a 2012 RAM 2500 w/ 6.7. You also might want to invest in a coolant filter because the fluid draining looked a bit rusty. But that might have been the color. Anyway, it's a really simple add-on that filters coolant. Cummins also recommends using a special flow control adapter when filling the radiator which seals like the radiator cap and doesn't allow any air into the system as you fill. You want ALL of the air out of the system because the EGR cooler can and does rupture if air get into it. For more DIY 6.7 repairs I recommend Motor City Mechanic.
Another great video Tom it is always a good idea to replace vehicle parts with original parts when you can most after market parts are less quality and don't always work!
Liked the video Tom, but my 2012 sure isnt coming apart as easy as yours did and i only have 50,000 miles. Got to be our lovely New York Winters. Have one question, i see a hose barb on the right hand side of the engine about midway back. Its coming out of the Valve Cover. Any idea if something belongs over that or connected to it?
Hey, I was wondering if you could help me? I live in NM it’s now going to 100 degrees everyday until august. So anyway I own 2015 2500 6.7 cummins. What is normal operating temps with it being so hot outside? I usually run about 190 degrees. But all day today I was running 208-213 degrees! I am not towing. The water pump was replaced at 47k miles I current am right under 70k. I’m not sure where I should start or if I even have a problem. I just want to be safe any info would be greatly appreciated! Btw your videos working on your 3500 are very informative and well filmed.
3-2-22 Another great video man. 2nd one I watched today and learned a lot. Viewer feedback- which isn’t negative record more of what you do. I’m not complaining, they’re just that good. Lol thanks and keep the content coming.
Followed your vid and I’m getting a p0118 code, engine coolant temp high. Cranked the truck this morning and it went straight to and held at 194..is that sensor you and I removed the coolant temp sensor?
I know it’s been a few years, but did you ever do a video on flushing the heater core on this truck? I want to do it, and can’t find a video of this exact engine. Thanks for considering it
This is six in a row jim again highly recommend drain at all I’ll fill it back up with the distilled water and drain it several times again use a siphon hose to make it easier drive it around till it’s fully warmed up flush everything out real good with distilled water then put about 2 1/2 maybe 3 gallon antifreeze and I recommend Amsoil antifreeze your water pump will last longer I know mine has in my old Dodge
I’ve been getting off and on the P0128 code on my 2010 6.7 I got both the Cummins original part 190 and the oem 200 degree thermostat stock tunes but fully deleted debating which one to use they are so close.
Love your Videos... But I was wondering if there are ways to save on your Diesel fuel , Do you use any special cards , stations or truck stops to save on fuel prices , Ones that you find better then others ?
Rich M I’m not sure where you live but Valero and maverick is ALWAYS cheaper than shell and chevron, etc. But I will say the shells in my area support Kroger rewards for grocery shopping. So if I have fuel rewards through any of Kroger brand store you get money off, up to $1 off 30 gallons. Plus during the summer Kroger offer 2x fuel point when shopping Thursday-Sunday. Circle offer easy pay in the app that usually takes 10-15 cents off just for paying with the app. Hope that helps when I got my truck that’s what shook me the most was $90 to fill up.
Go to a truck stop or chevron. Never cheap out on fuel. Your injectors and pump will thank you. If you have the 6.7, you can delete the egr assembly for better fuel economy. Also, check your fuel filter, air filter, boost tubes/intercooler, tires, trans fluid, and your oil for better fuel economy
Thanks for sharing. I think it's a very good idea to always keep an extra thermostat on-hand. Best to replace it any time a vehicle has experienced overheating (even due to some other cause) as thermostats can be damaged, and it's usually a very cheap part (even OEM is cheap). Leaving old one in post-overheating is not worth the risk. Same w/ radiator and/or reservoir cap! I hate when manufacturers obstruct quick & easy access to the thermostat. Cummins should change that. By the way, in a pinch (like stranded on roadside) when thermostat has failed you can remove it entirely and run the engine without it until you can get one. That said, I wouldn't do it long term as this makes the engine take longer to warm up to best operating temperature... so install another thermostat asap.
You'd change the radiator if you overheat? How does that make sense? Sure, maybe clean it. But if it's not damaged that's a huge waste of money and time. Make sure it's not leaking and not obstructed and move on. Consider the fan/clutch too.
No no no! Do not operate a Cummins B-seies engine without a thermostat ever. You can either take my word or you can find the Cummins Operation and Maintenance manual free online as a PDF for verification.
In the future when you go to drain your coolant use a siphon hose take your cap completely off and stick that hose down at least halfway down to the radiator and siphon it out you won’t have to crawl on the ground and it works real good one advantage of a crossflow radiator this is six in a row jim saying have a good day
We modified the engine a bit and it performs best there and gives a bit more headspace before getting warm, I would not do that if you are still running stock.
@@MortonsontheMove It was the thermostat. Replaced it and all is back to normal. I'm fully deleted so it was just the 3 bolts for the housing. Super easy
What can happen on the thermostat is over time it can lose the paraben charge that opens it when it warms up causing it to not fully open or stay closed.
You should always completely drain the coolant when replacing an 8 year old thermostat. You should leave the bleeder bolt loose to vent the sir out of the block. Checking the overflow tank right after running the engine can't show you anything. The overflow tank can not refill the radiator while the engine is hot. That is simple physics. Hot radiator had high pressure. Overflow tank has no positive pressure. You should always use new gaskets. Reusing old gaskets is foolishness.
Putting an EGR back onto any vehicle is just foolish, the automobile makers should be in Guantanamo bay for letting the oil companies put something on the engines that reduce fuel mileage, power, and reliability.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
Best mechanic ever. It worked on my truck. Real thing no bull**it like other videos. He is keeping it short and helpful. DONT FORGET ABOUT THE BOLT IN EGR( the highest point ) or else it will overheat.
Your comments and video were spot on for my 2010, 6.7l. I would not have done the job, had I not found this video. I did go with a Cummins thermostat as I understand that when it fails it fails open (exactly how mine failed)......big difference. Thanks very much.
So glad this helped you out!
I just noticed mine is leaking around the thermostat right now. I have an '09 and it started running hot yesterday. I had to hook up to my trailer today and I got over 220 which is where my defuel is set. Finally found out where it was leaking but I didn't know how to do the thermostat. Good vid. I hope that fixes the issue I'm having.
Good video. I deleted 90% of that stuff so it definitely makes it easier
Top Tip..... yes a short length of rubber hose to stop splashing out of the bucket, that glycol in the anti freeze is poisonous, just prop the hose over the outlet and let it hang down into the bucket.No more splashing..... done my fair share...... Regards Charles
That was good dude you didn't sit there and blah blah blah about your effing dog and take us on a tour of your tomato garden thank you keep them short to-the-point like that and I'll keep watching
That drives me crazy too! People have a 15min video on what can be a 3 minute video because they feel we want to see a fancy intro graphic and they talk about all kinds of stuff for 10 minutes or more before video-ing what we came here for. Then they all feel we need to here megadeath drowning out the narration.
Lol I just watched some idiot talk for 15 minutes about his wife, dog, dog pissing on snow and a tour of his chicken coop before telling me bleeding the air didn’t work. I wanted to slap him. Should have been a 2 min video.
@@zash008 exactly. NO ONE CARES. Just show us what we came for
Another great video. I screwed up and used a couple of the longer 25mm bolts of the four that hold the upper plastic shield in place. When almost done two of the bolts were to short for up on top. Had to go back and remove the longer bolts from the thermostat housing. Dropped one down inside the radiator shroud. While recovering that Bolt I bumped over an open jug of coolant. One of them kind of days.
Thank you! And we hope you were able to get it all worked out in the end. :)
Your video was a big help. I changed out mine on my 2011 Ram. It took about an hour and saved me $170.
Awesome! Glad it helped!
What does your 2011 run at with no load?
Your smart guy .Appreciate you catching the rubber seal missing on that thermostat.Ive never caught that myself and now ya showed me brother*
Good video. Ditto on the radiator cap being replaced. The 4th Gen 6.7 should be heating up to 200F not 190F. Might want to keep an eye on that. I noticed, those crappy Chinese connectors fell out of your EGR, mine did too. ;) (that and a Banks Cold Air Intake and Banks Monster Exhaust pushed my MPG up 4 MPG. We have a 2012 RAM 2500 w/ 6.7. You also might want to invest in a coolant filter because the fluid draining looked a bit rusty. But that might have been the color. Anyway, it's a really simple add-on that filters coolant. Cummins also recommends using a special flow control adapter when filling the radiator which seals like the radiator cap and doesn't allow any air into the system as you fill. You want ALL of the air out of the system because the EGR cooler can and does rupture if air get into it. For more DIY 6.7 repairs I recommend Motor City Mechanic.
That’s a Dodge fur ya... Good vid, don’t ya just love all the back seat mechanics... Thanks for taking the time to make the vlog and for sharing.
I must say this was very good video and instruction. TYVM!!!
My 2007 3500 6.7 was pretty much the same. Thanks for the VID sir.
Another great video Tom it is always a good idea to replace vehicle parts with original parts when you can most after market parts are less quality and don't always work!
Liked the video Tom, but my 2012 sure isnt coming apart as easy as yours did and i only have 50,000 miles. Got to be our lovely New York Winters. Have one question, i see a hose barb on the right hand side of the engine about midway back. Its coming out of the Valve Cover. Any idea if something belongs over that or connected to it?
Hey, I was wondering if you could help me? I live in NM it’s now going to 100 degrees everyday until august. So anyway I own 2015 2500 6.7 cummins. What is normal operating temps with it being so hot outside? I usually run about 190 degrees. But all day today I was running 208-213 degrees! I am not towing. The water pump was replaced at 47k miles I current am right under 70k. I’m not sure where I should start or if I even have a problem. I just want to be safe any info would be greatly appreciated! Btw your videos working on your 3500 are very informative and well filmed.
You ever figure this out? Sounds like something was going bad to me. Or low coolant
3-2-22 Another great video man. 2nd one I watched today and learned a lot. Viewer feedback- which isn’t negative record more of what you do. I’m not complaining, they’re just that good. Lol thanks and keep the content coming.
Thank you! :)
Good job, Tom. Y'all Be Safe!
Only takes 2 min on a 5.9L. LOL. Good video
Yeah those were the good ole days. No egr bs
Followed your vid and I’m getting a p0118 code, engine coolant temp high. Cranked the truck this morning and it went straight to and held at 194..is that sensor you and I removed the coolant temp sensor?
I know it’s been a few years, but did you ever do a video on flushing the heater core on this truck? I want to do it, and can’t find a video of this exact engine. Thanks for considering it
So much faster when your truck is deleted lol came here because the thermostat has all them holes ha ha must be a factory thing thanks for the vid
This is six in a row jim again highly recommend drain at all I’ll fill it back up with the distilled water and drain it several times again use a siphon hose to make it easier drive it around till it’s fully warmed up flush everything out real good with distilled water then put about 2 1/2 maybe 3 gallon antifreeze and I recommend Amsoil antifreeze your water pump will last longer I know mine has in my old Dodge
I’ve been getting off and on the P0128 code on my 2010 6.7 I got both the Cummins original part 190 and the oem 200 degree thermostat stock tunes but fully deleted debating which one to use they are so close.
I really have no clue if there is a difference with regard to engine performance of longevity, i just like to have that extra headspace in temp.
Thanks very much. this was very helpful
Glad my 6.7 cooler got stolen it take me 5 min
Saved me about 20000$. I was almost going to replace the whole engine
Love your Videos... But I was wondering if there are ways to save on your Diesel fuel , Do you use any special cards , stations or truck stops to save on fuel prices , Ones that you find better then others ?
Rich M I’m not sure where you live but Valero and maverick is ALWAYS cheaper than shell and chevron, etc. But I will say the shells in my area support Kroger rewards for grocery shopping. So if I have fuel rewards through any of Kroger brand store you get money off, up to $1 off 30 gallons. Plus during the summer Kroger offer 2x fuel point when shopping Thursday-Sunday. Circle offer easy pay in the app that usually takes 10-15 cents off just for paying with the app. Hope that helps when I got my truck that’s what shook me the most was $90 to fill up.
Go to a truck stop or chevron. Never cheap out on fuel. Your injectors and pump will thank you. If you have the 6.7, you can delete the egr assembly for better fuel economy. Also, check your fuel filter, air filter, boost tubes/intercooler, tires, trans fluid, and your oil for better fuel economy
I get 22-23 mpg in my 6.7. Deleted, minimaxx tuned.
Please change your radiator cap it will save your engine
Why is that?
Hey thanks for the video! Helped a lot.
My 12 valve is doing the same. Just changed the crusty thermostat I'll see what it does!
Thanks for sharing. I think it's a very good idea to always keep an extra thermostat on-hand. Best to replace it any time a vehicle has experienced overheating (even due to some other cause) as thermostats can be damaged, and it's usually a very cheap part (even OEM is cheap). Leaving old one in post-overheating is not worth the risk. Same w/ radiator and/or reservoir cap! I hate when manufacturers obstruct quick & easy access to the thermostat. Cummins should change that. By the way, in a pinch (like stranded on roadside) when thermostat has failed you can remove it entirely and run the engine without it until you can get one. That said, I wouldn't do it long term as this makes the engine take longer to warm up to best operating temperature... so install another thermostat asap.
You'd change the radiator if you overheat? How does that make sense? Sure, maybe clean it. But if it's not damaged that's a huge waste of money and time. Make sure it's not leaking and not obstructed and move on. Consider the fan/clutch too.
@@Mikey83943 i think he means rad cap.
No no no! Do not operate a Cummins B-seies engine without a thermostat ever. You can either take my word or you can find the Cummins Operation and Maintenance manual free online as a PDF for verification.
Wuaoo sin saber inglés solucione el problema de mi carro gracias a este señor, muchas gracias por tu video
Are there any gaskets or seals that need to be replace during this install?
In the future when you go to drain your coolant use a siphon hose take your cap completely off and stick that hose down at least halfway down to the radiator and siphon it out you won’t have to crawl on the ground and it works real good one advantage of a crossflow radiator this is six in a row jim saying have a good day
Thanks for the tip, Jim!
just do full delete man
So there's no gasket under the housing, it just uses the rubber seal around the thermostat?
Very helpful. Thank you
My ram 3500 always 150°F It is normal?? I have remplace the termostate? But the sensor p0128 appear. Thanks.!
Great video help me lots thanks buddy 👍
Glad it helped :)
I noticed the new t-stat is a 190 and the old was a 200 why did you go with the lower temp.
We modified the engine a bit and it performs best there and gives a bit more headspace before getting warm, I would not do that if you are still running stock.
Thank you
My dodge ram 2500 2018 is heating up only to 170 and my check engine light is on …you think i might be the thermostats
Is the same for 2012 ???
I think there may be a slight difference in the hose to the thermostat, but otherwise it should be, its in the same place.
Thanks for sharing ☕
It would have been perfect time to disassemble egr valve and soak/clean
I like the kobalt tools too
Great that you can do your own maintenance. Until you get the Rivian...
Tansk very much
Great video! But you need to do a delete on your Cummins! The EGR and the whole system is a waste! Mine operated much better after a full delete.
My truck isn't heating up and then overheating on the highway. My overflow is way over the max fill line, almost to the top. I'm thinking thermostat.
Hmm thats weird, check for exhauset smell in the tank too to check for head gasket issues.
@@MortonsontheMove It was the thermostat. Replaced it and all is back to normal. I'm fully deleted so it was just the 3 bolts for the housing. Super easy
Good way to test thermostats is stick them in boiling water.
What can happen on the thermostat is over time it can lose the paraben charge that opens it when it warms up causing it to not fully open or stay closed.
Thanks man.👍
Man there are way to many parts on that 6.7, that poor Cummins
Coolant on ram cummins goes bad at 3 years and 48k miles
Your thermostat stuck close. Which is causing it to over heat. 200k. Should had replaced it before long trip.
I have the same motor and dont have any of that California shit. Only took 5 minutes. Good video tho
Why are there wishbones under that truck
You should always completely drain the coolant when replacing an 8 year old thermostat. You should leave the bleeder bolt loose to vent the sir out of the block. Checking the overflow tank right after running the engine can't show you anything. The overflow tank can not refill the radiator while the engine is hot. That is simple physics. Hot radiator had high pressure. Overflow tank has no positive pressure. You should always use new gaskets. Reusing old gaskets is foolishness.
We had new gaskets and didn't drain all the way because we had done a coolant replacement recently already.
Putting an EGR back onto any vehicle is just foolish, the automobile makers should be in Guantanamo bay for letting the oil companies put something on the engines that reduce fuel mileage, power, and reliability.
First