Troubleshooting 10 Gen Honda Civic 1.5t poor performance and MPG issues
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2024
- My 2017 Honda Civic with 1.5 liter turbo L15B7 engine and almost 110k miles on the clock started having performance issues and poor gas mileage.
While troubleshooting these issues I looked into the air intake system and checked things like intake valves, turbo, intake leaks, etc.
Spoiler: The problem was a damaged intercooler which developed a leak
Congrats on solving the problem!! I'm quite surprised how clean those intake valves are after 100k+ miles, especially for a turbo GDI motor. I think they must have positioned the injector such that the intake valves get some fuel mist to wash them off during the intake stroke. If you look at teardowns of this motor it certainly seems like that was the intent of the designers. Honda engineering never ceases to impress me
I was expecting significantly more fouling as well. Not sure how they do it, but it is well designed indeed.
@@tranquilizator Honda keeps the intake valves clean on their direct injected vehicles with trimming. The intake valve hangs open for just enough time for fuel in the cylinder to get sucked back into the intake valve washing of the back of the intake valve off.
@@Scottstunts That's very interesting, first time I hear of it. What causes the fuel mixture to go back into the intake valve? Shouldn't the intake ports be under higher pressure due to turbo?
@@tranquilizator probably when the piston goes up the valve is still slightly open for a very small amount of time before it completely close
I wonder if this design is a cause and effect of oil dilution from fuel getting into the crankcase
Awesome video. I've been looking for some photos or video of 1.5T valves with some miles on them. Those are clean AF, and that makes me feel a lot better about my Civic now. Thank you.
Thanks for your feedback Jimmy. Glad I could help!
Great video. My brother-in-law has a '17 Civic SI and he inspected the valves around 80k and said they looked very good with minimal carbon build-up. Thanks for sharing!
that's great to hear!
I found it funny when you showed the mpg since my 20 Civic Sport Hatch Cvt gets 25 MPG...but I mostly commute in inner city Chicago "grid". Definitely a really informative video, thanks!
I have a 21 hatch ex and i only average about 26-29 so idk why this dude is complaining about 33 haha. I do have a few mods and im ktuned. But the best i got was 41 on a road trip.
@@vincentbaker1996 Civics should be 35-40 mpg
@@jamesmedina2062Not the sport trims. They tend to have the worst mpg among all the other trims.
Shouldn’t city mileage be 32mpg?? I drive mainly in city too, and get 24-26 mpg… is this normal on a 2017 EX-T w. 102k miles??
@@Val_tini. CVT? 6MT?
The filming in this video was awesome.
Great detailed video! I had over 128k miles on my 2016 before it was totalled. It still ran great and was Ktuned for 65k miles.
How did it get totaled
@@sirleme6522 I want paying attention and rear ended a car.
@@genenie5981 thanks alot for sharing i thought the engine exploded for no reason etc etc
@@sirleme6522 I now have a 2017 that had 46,000 miles on it when I bought it. Now I'm at 73,000 and I put Ktuner on it at 51,000.
@@genenie5981 there is a video where a guy shows some internal components of civic fk7 that are very thin i think they are parts of the engine. He says they cant support alot of HP without breaking because they are very thin. Be very careful.
Great video sir. Keep it up for all us Civic owners
Thanks Trent!
You are the real doctor on this one. Thank you for the video
Thanks! I'm glad you found the video useful
I just bought a 2016 Civic and thought that I should be getting more power. So now thanks to this video I'm off looking for a leak in my intercooler
interccooler is for air. you mean radiator?
leaking water is normal for the AC condenser
I believe he is talking about an air leak. That's the condition I described in my video - when intercooler develops a hole or there is a bad seal, compressed air escapes, creating an air leak. This will affect engine performance
@@tranquilizator oh that makes sense.
Thank you for sharing this. I've been having the exact same problem with my Civic for a while now. It has less than 70,000 miles on it so I wasn't sure where to look first. I'll follow your lead and look into spark plugs and intake manifold first but I wouldn't be surprised if my intercooler was messed up too.
@Nick Schroeder , found the fix?
@@ripstah187 no. There are too many factors with my problem. My mileage changes with the weather (Minnesota winters are cold), my average speed, and even the gas I use. I don't think I have a leak in the system. But after changing my air filter among other things my mileage went up to ~35mpg. And I'm good with that.
I have almost all the same issues as the guy in the video and mine is under 70,000 miles also, I think it’s close to 65,000. Bought it last year, off the lot it was giving me an average of 40 mpg and now it’s doing 30 at best. I gotta bring this in now 🤧 MN weather here too
My 2018 Accord 1.5T just had a fuel injector fail at 58k error code P0172 (posted on my channel). Modern Honda look amazing but once the 3yr/36k warranty expires you're on your own and you have no idea how expensive modern Honda engines are to fix. Oil changed at 80%, Shell regular used 80% of the time, always did warm up the car in the winter. Dealer so out of touch they recommended brake fluid replacement at 30k. I've never seen this part fail in ANY of my past cars. When asked why the injector failed so early Dealer said they see them all the time and cost of replacement is $1600-$2500 (must replace all 4) and the new injectors warranty is only for 12k/12mos! I was in love and bought the 1st Accord on the lot with series ending in -0001 but when I made a case with Honda to see if it could be part of a bad batch all I got was the VM of the case manager for weeks on end. Very diassapointed
Cool thanks for stepping through the process and showing the valves. We got a CRV and are having worse that expected MPG even though it's at 25k. So I'm just running through all the possibilities to learn and not waste money at a dealership. Confirms what others were saying that the intake doesn't need cleaning and Honda specifically designed around it. I'll have to look at the intercooler, but with more ground clearance ours is probably fine. It's nice that it's 99% the same as the civic platform so we'll be able to get high quality parts till hell freezes over. If anyone has any suggestions it's a 2020 so it should have the new firmware.
Come to think of it I am kinda confused because I thought the ECU was supposed to notice loss of metered air or poor running.
Probably wasn't bad enough, or perhaps didn't last long enough for the ECU to take notice.
Awesome shot of the valves there's some buildup, but no airflow restriction. I'm currently around 67500 miles on my 19 sport touring. Usually being mostly city, averaging 37mpg every tank. My record was 42.8mpg on a road trip.
My record on the 2016 2.0 ex was 46 with 3 people inside
If you were having "MPG" issues, you might just remove the 02 sensor right in the front (below the Intake Charge tube) and clean it off with some Throttle body spray, put some copper anti-sieze around the threads and put'er back in. You could do this for BOTH the 02 sensors if you chose to.
Cleaning out the throttle body and MAF spraying the MAF sensor as well will bring a lot of life back (especially if you haven't done those).
Apparently you didn’t watch until the end.
@@SMuss50 Forget the end, they didn't even watch until the halfway point. Worse yet the people who liked the comment.
He has "Key moments" moments in the description which allows you to goes wherever you interests lie. Just have to use them.
You must drive mostly highway miles to get 40 mpg. That’s awesome!
My 2018 Civic EX-T (bought new) has over 88,300 miles and currently averages 33.0 mpg. However, it’s averaged over 34 mpg as recently as last month. It’s never exceeded much past 34 mpg. I drive about 60/40 highway to city. Obviously, the more city driving, the lower the mpg. I’ve never driven over 140 straight highway miles at one time yet I rarely drive short city trips either. I experience no hesitation although the turbo lag is evident but everything seems normal. It drives as well today as when I first drove it new.
I'm guessing that your about to begin the issues right about now depending on how cold it gets in your area. But the battery is a joke in these Hondas!We own a 2017 civic sport touring 1.5L turbo engine, And with all of the electronics in the car it's an overload on the battery. Not to mention the underhood temperatures that this car experiences in the summer heat cooks the battery! We also experienced a coolant leak ( Or so I thought! ) But when the weather cooled down it stopped loosing coolant! I assume it was getting so hot down at the bottom of the radiator at the elbow as the exaust runs very close to it with just a thin heat shield in between the two, That it was boiling it off right at the bend. I had a hard time getting my wife to listen to my suggestion to change the oil every 1500 miles enstead of every 3000 miles! But it certainly smooths out the engine with fresh oil! She knows not to challenge my experience in automotive knowledge though! I have 30+ years experience underhood and I'm always correct in my diagnostic abilities!😉
@@tonymayhew191
I’m currently at 93,500 miles averaging 33.3 mpg. I live in Westchester county, NY and I get a moderate amount of snow for the northeast. I replaced the battery at about 77,000 miles which, after three years, is about the normal time to change the battery with modern cars. I perform early maintenance, between 3,800-4,200 mile intervals. That’s actually very early for full synthetic 0W-20 oil. If I were to change the oil any earlier like you, I would be doing it every two weeks. I’ve had no issues so far. I replaced the transmission fluid twice and flushed the coolant. I also bled/changed the brake fluid and replaced all four brake pads. I also changed the spark plugs early at 67,000 miles. My Honda dealership recently recommended replacing the water pump and serpentine belt as part of routine maintenance. I will do that when I hit 100,000 miles. Anyway, I’m heading into the winter with no concern. With my aggressive maintenance schedule, my hope is to get at least 300,000 miles before any major repairs are due with either the engine or transmission.
@@tonymayhew191
I put 1500+ miles on my odometer every month. I always do an oil change right before winter and right before summer. My '18 Civic Hatch EX with the 1.5L Turbo is doing great. Pro tip: switch to the new ILSAC GF-6B 0W-16 oil. No more oil dilution problems. Quick starts in the winter and the engine runs cooler in the summer.
I have recently started using Amsoil 0-20w oil that has zinc in it ! I heard that honda civic 1.5 turbo engine is using the engine oil to cool and lubricate the bearing in the turbo which is reaching temperatures of 360degree! Way too hot for off the shelf oils to withstand causing the oil to loose its viscosity and lubrication properties and wearing shit out at break neck speed in your engine!
UPDATE: I’m just over 102,000 miles. No issues so far. Today, I’m having the oil/filter changed with 40% oil life left. I’ll probably have the water pump and drive belt changed with my next oil change interval later this spring.
I love my '17 sport touring. Just passed over 100k miles, and my mpg average is singing proudly at 43.5mpg's with premium fuel.
Impressive!
You know how you pull up to a parking spot and you go to park and you touch the curb or parking block, this car is so low stock already that easily hit. This is probably what plagued my car back then. Ive since upgraded everything and even the engine. This process you used was amazing man! I liked how simple you made it seem. Thanks for taking your time to make this video. Im sure its gonna help a lot and i had never thought about checking the entire unit i always just looked at the boost tubes. Its kinda protected there but you hit it hard enough for sure it can do dmg!!!
Just stop short of curbs and parking blocks, problem solved! That's what I do.
Great video! Thanks for making this!
Glad you liked it!
I hope to not ever get this problem. I have a 2018 1.5T civic EXT with 6 sp. manual tranny but I only have about 46,000 miles on it, since I don't drive it much in the winter. This helps minimize the oil dilution somewhat but they still get gas in the oil even during a hot summer!! The deal about them only having the problem is cold weather is a myth. It's just not as bad in the summer. In the summer I get up to 48mpg on the interstate trips. Mostly because of our thin Utah atmosphere. Both very hot temps of around 100F and the high elevation over 4,000 feet or more makes for thin air. So the car doesn't have much air resistance even at 80 mph!! So fuel efficiency soars! The same trip in the winter with the much denser air yields only 42 mpg at most. And in rural areas, the speed limit on interstates is 80 mph. I'm taking great care of mine because the 2018 model year they made very few EXT (mid level trim) with both the 6 speed manual shift and the dual exhaust. Mine was the only one they could find like in Utah and all the surrounding states. I had my dealer get it from another dealer and they did! They made a trade for it.
I have the same 1.5t at 102k miles. Trying to figure out why it averages only 26mpg 😩
Good catch and I have seen a few go bad like that, also they will pop off during boost and come completely apart. Nothing you did as your bumper damage is pretty light inop. They should have given you new seals when you bought the OEM one.. bummer. Sometimes putting the bumper on its tricky to reset that lower IC deflector into the lower grove of the bumper, just try again :)
Very informative video. Thank you!
i like your leak test procedure, but i would rather use a vacuum pump, they are quite inexpensive and less prone to damage something on the intake system. great video and thank you for sharing.
Good tip! Thanks for sharing!
Actually why I chose the 2L naturally aspirated. I knew turbos cause these issues so I opted not to have a turbo. I wanted to negate as much upkeep on the engine for longevity as I could when buying a Honda.
I already have a fast weekend car and wanted a reliable daily driver so I bought a 2020 Civic Sport Sedan with the 2.0 naturally aspirated port injected engine and a 6 speed manual transmission.
Would NEVER buy a Civic with a CVT!
understand your reasoning. Only, thing, is the Sport (and LX) do not have as many options as the Touring models. I had to have!! Lol But, it's awesome to see the valves at 109k and they were fantastically clean. Very happy to see that!
The sport has tuned shocks, different control arms and bigger sway bars that the touring doesn’t have.
I’ve driven the touring but it doesn’t handle nearly as good as the sport in stock form.
I’m not a fan of sunroofs at all, and the touring definitely rides better. Also when it’s optioned with the leather interior it definitely feels like a more premium car inside.
I already have a fast weekend car, and wanted reliability why I went with the 2.0 and manual as my daily. But HATE the electronic ebrake.
The Hondas/acuras I had in the 90s were far more analog feeling and didn’t have all the electronic gizmos which I prefer.
However I have friends with the 1.5 with over 150,000 miles so the reliability issues often associated with them are overblown, they are very reliable engines and better on gas as well as more performance 👍🏻
@@bretthansen8166 ... I also had a 2002 Civic EX (bought it new) and loved the Vtec. I agree the 10th Gen is a good modern reliable car. But, I do like my tech. haha
Are you sure there are no leaks anymore? Since the pressure is still dropping slowly. Isn't it supposed to stay??
My 2017 1.5 now has 140,000 as of Nov 2024 and daily drive to work is 120 miles a day over 30,000 a year. I got it in Oct 2020 from my local Honda dealership certified used with just under 16,000 miles. I drive conservatively and sometimes hyper mile it. My best one way trip to work 60 miles i got 64 mpg. I still can get well over 50 mpg one way and average 48 mpg on a tank of gas. My best fuel milage for a tank of gas was 702 miles a tank after filling up from an empty tank so the computer said. Computer said my average speed was 40mph and total driving time with the tank of gas was 17 hours and 30 minutes. Very impressive for a non hybrid and hard to believe from a car made in 2017. Ive had zero issues with it and even got 105,000 miles from the original tires it came with. Heck i could have gotten more out of the tires but didn't want to push it with my long drives back n forth to work.
You changed the coolant too right?
What is the car assembled in the US or EU. just curious, sorry.
UK assembled car. No worries!
I have a 2017 1.5 LITER turbo civic coup. I never hear blow off. Where's the extra boost go when I lift off the excelerator
These have a bypass valve rather than a blow-off valve. They do similar thing - relieve intake pressure when the throttle is closed, but unlike the blow-off valve which just vents directly to the atmosphere, bypass valve recirculates the air back to the intake upstream of the turbo. Bypass valves are not as loud as blow-off valves and you are unlikely to hear it under normal operating conditions.
Cheers
Quick question: did you still could hit full boost on the dashboard meeter when you had the leak?
I've owned different Honda's for over 25 years. The 1.5L engine is hit or miss. Carbon build up appears to be the biggest issue. I just ordered my 2023 Honda. Had to go with the 2.0L. It's not a speed king, but it's bullet proof.
No carbon build up is the not the biggest issue with the 1.5t nor is it oil dilution. It’s blown head gaskets. My. 1.5T blew one. And apparently it’s the biggest issue with this motor if you’re not using premium gas. Honda techs have been talking about it and raising concerns for a while
@The Holt2ic2, were you running premium? Were you running extra boost with a tune? Also,what was the failure milage?
@@robme3660 No, the car was completely stock. Got an oil change by the dealer every 5k until it blew at 75k. I complained to Honda corp and they helped me with $4000 as the dealer quoted me $4800 + plus tax. I didn’t even talk to the dealer and went straight to corporate. It was out of warranty at 60k. Didn’t use premium as the manual and a lot of people even the dealer said 87 is fine. 87 is fine if you literally never push the car ever. But now after it got the head gasket replaced I only put premium. I took care of the car and couldn’t believe it and after doing research this is happening a lot mainly with Accords.
@@theholt2ic219 Yea any forced induction or high compression engine needs to run premium top tier fuel no matter what anyone says. They probably said it was ok to use 87 because it makes it more appealing to customers that don’t want a car that requires premium fuel. Pre detonation and knock will destroy head gaskets very quickly.
Im going to have to check this out. I've bottomed out at a few driver ways over the years but didnt notice lag and loss of power till about a year ago. Also my MPG city is like 30 to 29 compared to 35 and up when I first got the car. I also have serious loss of power at speeds over 100 now. She wont go 130 easily like it used to. Do they sell compression kits like this and what are they called?
My Highway mileage has not changed, still get amazing highway MPG
My FK7 has about 54,000 miles, newish airfilter, no new sparks, stock boost and tubro. New tires are rated for 140+ MPH. used 91 only since I purchased the car from Shell gas only or cheveron.
I don't know if they sell compression kits... I just put this together with Home Depot hardware basically.
Did you clean the intake valves while you were in there? With like crc intake valve cleaner?
Haven't cleaned the intake valves. Probably should have, though my primary goal was to find the issue first.
I was completely illiterate about this part came in . Thanks for making this video i have the same issue with my car it idles a lot and i have to press the gas petal to 2800rmp to get to 60mphr what can be the issue here .
question: why my civic 2019 if accelerating that boost is going up its bogging down and when accelerating slowly it run fine
do you drive your civic hard? Driving it harder causes the intake valves to be warmer which also causes the carbon to burn off along as well. According to VW and Mazda its about 380 to 400° C temp on the intake valves will make the carbon burn off and not stick to the valves.
I wouldn't say I drive it particularly hard, but some days harder than others. Thanks for the tip, I'll keep it in mind.
Is the build up of deposits from the outside air like fumes from traffic?
how much was the intercooler? Thanks.
Don't you have to cap the pipe before throttle body? What if the air flows into the cylinder and escape to the exhaust?
That shouldn't happen since both intake and exhaust valves shouldn't be open at the same time.
Hey Tranqulizator. Do you still own your Civic? If so, can you give an update?
I’m trying to accumulate data and satisfaction of long term ownership of the 10th gen Civic.
Hi txmoney. Still have the civic. Over 145k miles now. Pretty happy with it still. Had a weird error code about a month ago that threw a check engine light - something to do with boost pressure, don't remember exactly. Was about to start troubleshooting it but the issue went away on its own in a few days. Let me know if you have any specific questions I can answer.
Cheers
@@tranquilizator
Thanks for the update. Great to hear you’re still going strong with your Civic.
At 116,300 miles, my Civic had a water pump leak detected from the weephole. At 120,100 miles, I replaced the water pump, drive belt, and PCV valve (total cost $1045.00). Aside from that and an earlier AC Condenser replacement (fully covered under Honda’s extended warranty), I’m going strong.
Currently at 121,800 miles averaging 34.1 mpg.
@tranquilizator hey man. I'm having acceleration and jerking issues. Changed almost everything except the turbo itself, and the part u just replaced in the video. Could it be fuel pump or related
If the system couldn't hold pressure, how come the pressure sensor didn't let you know?
Within parameters of error. Until the car starts running rich the ecu will keep its mouth shut.
Hello,
Did you get any under boost codes? or any codes at all?
No, none at that time.
Ive been getting 39mpg sometimes mid 40's depending on how I drive.
Do you have problems with the oil dilution issues i keep hearing about??
I haven't noticed any oil dilution symptoms so far.
there should be a boost pressure gauge in your dash to keep an eye on your boost , the 2018 I have has one built into the dash .
Yeah, that's a good accessory to have, I'll install one sometime. Interestingly, I've checked boost pressure when troubleshooting this (though not on video) and found that boost was building (albeit slower). I don't have enough experience to tell there was a problem in the readout (HONDATA) therefore I moved on to other troubleshooting steps.
@@tranquilizator To diagnose a boost leak with software for any turbo engine, you need to look at these three parameters: target boost pressure, actual boost pressure and waste gate duty cycle. If actual boost pressure is slow to reach target or never gets there, combined with high WGDT that is a good indication of a leak. Nonetheless impressive that you managed to diagnose this yourself!
Well done 👍
Thank you 👍
A few people here said they are "surprised at how little fowling" the intake side has. I am sorry but that is still pretty bad in general. Grab any toyota motor and you will find nearly NO fowling, not even a little. Dual injection > GDI only even if it costs more to build the engine. And compared to port injected engines, this is horrible.
The issue isn't "restricting" airflow, but making the airflow turbulent (meaning worse tumble flow), as well as incomplete valve closing and opening, valves getting stuck, as well as carbon build up falling into the cylinder itself creating micro damage and further build up to the cylinder linings.
Does the dipstick smell like gas ?
Nope
@@tranquilizator You are lucky. my 2020 Si sedan's dipstick smells like straight up GAS
@@tranquilizator only 9K miles on it
@@baggedtuned8569 that's not good.. how would gas even get into the oil?
@@tranquilizator look up oil dilution for honda 1.5L turbo engines. It affects the CRV's and Civics bc they have Direct Injection.
Any updates? I'm gonna be buying a used civic so would appreciate any advice.
Hi Carl, sorry for late reply, I don't check the comments as often as I should. Still have the car, still love it. Around 37mpg combined now, no issues. Had AC work done under recall, that's about it as far as I can remember. 140k miles
I’m getting poor mpg on my 2019 civic ext . It only has 19000 miles . Any suggestions ?
Check the voltage system for low voltage! My civic sport touring 1.5L turbo engine model started having issues and slowly losing power. I found information about the piece of crap battery that was put in these cars that is like 14 pounds liter then the Canadian model to save weight. But I can assure you that if you are knocking that kind of weight off of a battery! That is where all your reserve compassady is stored in the lead plates inside the battery! And these cars are so full of electronics that there is no way the system can keep up with the demand to keep things working properly! I believe we had 24000 thousand miles on our civic when I figured out what was wrong and changed the battery. When purchasing a new battery, Make sure you get the platinum top of the line made especially for a car that has all the heated seats and everything is electric, These cars take a massive amount of power to run everything! And the colder it gets the worst your battery performs! And low voltage is a trickle down effect on sensors or anything that is supposed to operate with 12 volts to make it work, It starts causing one problem after another! Two things to remember, cold cranking amps are not as important as reserved compassady, And these cars with the turbo charged engines are horrible for underhood heat and will bake the battery if not maintenanced!That means forget that bullshit about maintenance free battery! Not true! You need to remove the hold down brace across the top of the battery, Remove the sticker and unscrew the six plugs in the top of the battery and physically look down inside the cells to make sure that the lead plates are submerged completely under the water/Acid and it needs water added you cannot use tap water from your kitchen sink! The chlorine in this water will cause a chemical reaction with the acid in the battery! You must use distilled water to add to it 😉
How poor? Is it consistently poor or fluctuates? Do you notice loss of power? There are many things that can cause this problem. In my case it was an intake leak, in your case it could be something else. Unless you are really trying to get down and dirty with it, I would take it to the dealer and have them chase down this problem since your car has low mileage and is still under warranty. The dealer has all kinds of diagnostics hardware that will shave days off troubleshooting something like this. Whether or not a dealer will entertain this or consider this a real issue is another story...
If you are inclined to look at it yourself - here are some things to check that my give you a clue as to what's wrong:
- Check electrical basics like Tony mentioned below. Take a voltmeter to the battery when the car is off and when it's on, there are guides on how to do this best and what values to look for. Make sure all connections are solid
- Make sure your air filter is clean and installed properly
- Take plugs out and check them, there are guides on that as well, complete with what exactly to look for
- Look for damage to intercooler or other engine components in the front and under the car
- Lift the car up on a lift or do one wheel at a time and make sure they all spin freely. Silly as this is, the problem can come from excessive friction in one of the wheels, due to brakes, bearing or something else
Hope this helps
Mine was poor u til about 35k on the dash. I was getting max 28mpg now it's 34/ 35 mpg mixed driving
I’m still having the same issue . I changed my battery , changed my spark plugs and still the same issue. I also did oil and filter change. I need to fix this issue even more now that gas prices are this crazy
@@Jahtav I think these engines have a very tight tolerance. I believe you need to just break in the engine. I have a small leak in my intercooler and still 35ish right now. No maintenance other than oil change.
Are you running 87 octane most of the time?
I'm running 92 or 93 exclusively in this car.
Plastic engine?
Shit glad I swapped for a Mishimoto already, won't have to worry about this
Pcv valve is a big maintenance item. Year late dollar short I guess.
Also was wondering if you use top tier gas? And honestly, there's more buildup on the ports that the valves, which I'm sure is normal. Honda definitely knows how to engineer engines!
I try to fill up at well established franchise gas stations and use 93 octane since that's what the tune calls for. Definitely not as much fouling as I was expecting. My mechanic was surprised too when I showed him the video of the valves
@@tranquilizator what gas stations do you use ?
My 17' Si is 32-33 MPG Average. It's over 118K. I have driving habits and am impatient. 😂
Why didn't you use scanner to prove it..
There were no trouble codes.
Hmmm lately Ive been having an issues that the Honda dealers cant figure out and ive taken it to other ppl and they say the same. Can’t figure it out. Anytime I let off the throttle or press it to accelerate the car rpms jump before climbing or dropping making the car feel a jerk anytime im on or off the gas. Or is that just a civic si thing it’s my first SI. 10th gen. Do you guys have any ideas lol 😂
Thats the CVT. my wifes 2017 civic does it too. look on the CivicX forum for more info
@James SI doesn't have cvt man. It's a 6 speed.
Maybe check motor mounts?
revhang?
My FK7 1.5T CVT 2019. uses 9.2L/100km in the city. On paper it should be 8.1.
It has 60K kilometers.
Did this car have a check engine light on?? I just bought a 19 CRV EX L with the 1.5T. On the highway I get something like 35+ MPG, but in the short city commutes to work very poor MPG, like 13 MPG. That certainly is not what I should be getting, but with no CEL I just figured its what it was. Car has 69k on the odometer. I am now shocked to read some of the comments regarding what others are getting MPG wise. Car runs fantastic, and is super clean, its clear who ever had it before me took uber good care of the car and I absolutely baby the car due to concerns with the CVT, which I can certainly not afford to replace.
My car didn't have CEL on. As far as yours - 13MPG city is concerning. Probably warrants looking into
@@tranquilizator Yes it is, but its getting good MPG on the highway. I just bought it used and reset all the MPG indicators and normally only drive it 2 miles to work and back, which is apparently not a good thing for this vehicle, Im hearing. Maybe it just needs to be driven more to get the average MPG up?? I noticed on the way home today its up to 14MPG. Ill keep my eye on it. Thanks for replying.
I have a 1.6 diesel version of this car and easily get 60mpg Most economical car I’ve ever had.
I had a 2011 civic and it got crap gas mileage. It’s sad cause there good cars.
Only problem with this car is oil delusion problem because it has a small engine and giant turbo, the heat this creates is too much and the piston rings let some petrol out. You can easily smell petrol while changing the oil.
I haven't noticed that. This engine is pretty well built as far as I can tell.
6:44 thats why you need an Oil catch can. also some of that is bc of Oil dilution
Oil can would have helped, no doubt, though I am surprised how little fouling there was after 100k miles. Was expecting much more
@@tranquilizator they have a built in catch can at the rear of the intake manifold and the oil drains back in to your crank case ,they thought of every thing . my wife drives a 2018 civic touring 1,5 t. I change oil at 50% oil life ,and use 5/30 syn and use top tier gas never any gas with ethanol . .and no oil dilution yet ever ,good job !.
@@oldbiker9739 Where do you find ethanol free gas? all the gast stations on my state have 10% ethanol.
@@Kagemusha320 Canada , and military wont use it or boat docks gas stations
@@oldbiker9739 oh ok.
I Bought a 2016 civic EXL in 2017 brand new. I put 100k miles mostly freeway miles 76miles an hour crusing. Get 42-43 miles to gallon. But this year I started Doordashing alittle bit put maybe 2k miles maybe 3k and had valve 2 stick lost all power had to crawl home. Put an addive in the oil and ran some c-foam through the intakes and it started throwing missfires on all cylinder but cylinder 2 was fixed. I did have 0 compression in cylinder 2. Now since then I have been burning oil now massive amounts of black smoke at intersections. Cleaning with valve cleaner was a bad idea i guess Im sure something got dislodged. Now going to cost if anyone has any ideas would love to hear them.
Not sure what you mean by valve 2 sticking, but if you lost power then I would assume it was something more serious than what additives and cleaners could remedy. I would have the engine looked at by a reputable shop. Zero compression in a cylinder indicates a major mechanical failure - if I were you I'd stop driving that car and take it to the shop. Hope this helps.
I have a 1.5T 2016 EX-T and my dash looks totally different than yours. Weird
Cause he has a lx
Head gasket problem brotherr
Negative, head gasket is not the problem. I've put on 70k miles since this video came out, car runs fine.
Must always change your oil ahead of recommendation interval.
30% life is my minimum for an oil change. I have gone down to 10% only once because I couldnt get scheduled on time.
My 2017 civic hatchback sport has 188,686 miles.. ac just went out
Is it CVT transmission? Any trouble oil change for cvt. I’m gonna buy one but in doubt of cvt reliability. Thank you 🙏!
@@kr9181 yes it is, I did the oil changes every 25,000 Miles with honda Trans oil. It's
A good car. Now that ac went out, dealer didn't want to honor extended warranty for ac condenser.
That's a shame that the dealer won't honor AC condenser repair. It's a known issue and they should stand by the brand and make it right.
Honda extended the A/C warranty to 10 years, unlimited miles, so check on this! I got a notice in the mail for my 2018 Civic hatchback. So your mileage doesn't matter.
@@travelguy1564 I took it to my local Honda Dealer, were gonna charge me 996. For freon, to " verify" the ac condensor was at fault. If it was no charge if it wasnt I was gonna get charged. I ended up decling the work, paid the diagnostic fee 167.00. Later, i ended filing a complaint with Honda of America against the dealer. What I was I told over the phone, dealers are getting away from doing the work. Because they dont make enough money for fix. My honda AC still....isnt working. Luckily I have a secound vehicle.
Mine is at like 26.4 mpg. It’s been getting low and lower over the past two years
That isn't right. Unless all you do is send it, I'd start looking for the source of the issue.
Got that bro
Oh man I want the new 2022 civic but I think I'll avoid the turbo model.
The turbo motor is great. Awesome power band and very tunable. I would definitely go for the turbo
Is it the same engine as the CRV? Avoid the 1.5 L turbo engine since they have had oil dilution problems in the CRV. .Some say that trying 91or 93 octane gas may be an idea to help. Some videos are suggesting to add an oil catch can. . No one seems to know for sure if a CRV software update is the answer. Honda should have kept the old 2.4 L engine. No problems with that one. The Honda CRV Hybrid model is different engine and probably better. .
BTW Toyota Rav 4 has a normal ,non turbo engine and a normal transmission, not CVT .
Oil dilution is a none issue. Hard to dilute a quality full synthetic 0w-20.
Drive the snot out of it, keep it in sport mode in winter till its fully warmed up. Really cold days it stays in sport mode for my 20 mile highway commute.
You could drive it 100mph and it would still be more fuel efficient then a half ton truck. Lol
It will go 100mph on a crapy highway to boot if you want.
I have a 2017 sport touring 1.5L turbo engine civic and I'm almost positive that fuel ending up in the oil was due to the battery taking a big doo doo on me and causing low voltage and not burning the fuel efficiently enough! Although I have went around with my wife about the fact that she got her civic with 1600 miles on the odometer and not a clue how the engine was broken in for the first 500 miles of it's life! And I can only imagine that if you only had the car 1600 miles before getting rid of it! That it had to be someone who didn't give two shits about how hard they drove the piss out of it! Someone else can have it and all the damage they did to the engine while it was still breaking in the piston rings to cylinder hone that is so critical to the life of the engine! And I watch the youth of today beating the hell out of these cars like they think it's a video game or something! If they could see all the maintenance needed to be able to drive an engine full throttle in racing engines ( Valve springs get punished and anyone with racing knowledge changes them frequently! ) They might not be so quick to beat the crap out of the car! Enstead! They get the biggest, Loudest fart can muffler that they can get their hands on! And have absolutely no knowledge on tuning for such a radical change to the system that was designed for what the manufacturer made it for, An accasional fun run! But it's been my experience that if you have anything flowing past the rings and ending up with excess fuel in the oil you didn't break the engine in the way you were told!ending in failure due to stupidity on the first owners of the cars negligence!
@@tonymayhew191 I methodically broke in my engine and have not had any loss of oil but I have had fuel in the oil to a pretty low percentage of less than 3%. My oil being 5w30 or slightly heavier has helped to lessen the fuel but with mapping for my 2017 being 1st generation, it is bound to happen. Honda has new cold-start mapping but refuses to just flash my ECU for free so nothing has been updated. Very fine fuel droplets get on the cylinder walls and since the walls have honing to hold oil, it does mix with oil and it is probably far less when the engine has warmed up.
There are plenty of 1.5T out there with over 250,000 miles on them. So your point is invalid.
No , everything I said about the 1.5! Turbo is true. It’s real. Thousand of crv had the same issue for years . gas in the oil is a problem. It may be corrected by now. Yes I’m sure there are some cars that last a long time. But avoiding that engine and buying the hybrid instead. Is. A safer option .. why gamble ? Personally I prefer the rav 4.
👍👍
I say, F%#k Jake from state farm! Your da man!😄 I watched this video and went outside and took a look at the intercooler on are 2017 civic sport touring 1.5L turbo engine, And I be damned if there wasn't a hole in the intercooler where a rock hit it and knocked a hole big enough to suck my gas mileage right through it! Good call my man! Your a trooper and a scholar! 😉
Thanks Tony! Glad you found this helpful!
im getiing 25... on a ex-t 2018
easy test if you have a boost leak ,you will see a cloud of smoke 😂,i blew a hose off and you will know, stock psi is 15.7, you used hondata to turn it up to 21psi ,its crap stock intercooler
I hate new cars they have no room to work on every space is tight
Indeed. It's a mess in there
if you turn off tracking control ,car takes off better , turn off the brake sensor crap
use fuel interjector cleaner and engine restorer after every oil change, lucas oil fuel injector cleaner and its called engine restorer, dump it in the oil 🛢 goes ,car run fine
That pipe is not a charger pipe ,its called turbo inlet pipe, charge pipes are connected to your intercooler, wow 😂😢
These cars were made in China!!! I was shocked when I saw the assembly line there of these cars. I rented one made in China and it threw a rod at 60k! I believe Japan moved them back. Not positive but that's what Japan said during COVID.
Not sure about now, but mine (2017) was made in the UK.
Bad worn out sparkplugs
These are pretty recent. Definitely ahead of Honda suggested replacement schedule. Thanks for the input - I'll be changing them soon.
This is the worse Honda engine ever made. The oil dilution problem is a significant fault by Honda.
Only the average joe issue
That's a lot of mileage you put in there. I would avoid any 1.5
What kinds of real world failures has the 1.5T seem? Mines a champ. Way better and lower maintenance then my step dads GM v8 truck of similar age and millage.
@@Yotaciv the 1.5 has proven reliable despite all of the internet noise on fuel dilution
I think engine design has much greater impact on performance and longevity than pure displacement. Had a 1.5 non-turbo Toyota Yaris in the past, no issues whatsoever with the engine after 180k miles.
Another misinformed expert.
Nearly fell asleep.
you over boosted a stock intercooler, lol yeah i got all 27won turbo kit , that intercooler will have heat soak car sucks with stock intercooler
i get 27.8 mpg on mine lmao
Shouldn't be so low unless you send it 100% of the time and let it idle overnight while you sleep :)
Clean the throttle body
My 2002 accord gets 33 mpg lol
lol, the air comes threw the intake, which is connected to the turbo inlet pipe ,wow charge pipe you called it ,lol ,look dont buy hondata an turn up your boost 6psi on a stock car 😂😢
I recommend a boost gauge, I installed one on my civic sport hatch and I can know my boost levels, if you had a boost gauge you would have known you had a boost leak and make diagnosis easier
Good point. I'll consider it.