Been following since last year, I got one of these chinese diesel heaters to keep my greenhouse frost free. Never expected it to not shut down / start up based on temperature. However a bit of arduino coding and a relay and aspirated sensor and some direct wiring to the control module of the heater has produced what I needed. It has been working flawlessly for over 6 months now, after debugging timings to initiate and shutdown the heater, and to allow for cooldown before attempting restart. Love your exploits and experiments and your last vid on the remote thermostat would have saved me a few hours work had it been available when I started the project. :) Keep up the great work if you can, I love your content.
Very cool... I love the engineering creativity ! Some of the new controllers do shut down and start based on temp, but most do not. Yes, the Bureck would have worked well for you, but I applaud your creativity. Thanks for sharing.
Also wanted to say that you have exactly the right outlook on life, prepare for an emergency before it comes, afterward is too late for many reasons. Civilization seems to have bred the survival instinct out of a lot of people.
🤣... My garage has hurricane straps with a double 2x6 base plate, 8" steel reinforced concrete retaining wall / footing, tied into my 8" high pressure concrete floor that is also rebar reinforced with stuff I got on Kijiji from commercial high rise leftovers. You might get hit with a piece of my garage door when it pops off 🤣
Your creativity and willingness to push the limits of these heaters is amazing. I look forward to seeing each one and have really become interested in getting a DH because of your efforts. Very educational! Thank you!
Hello ! This is the 2nd year that I have been using my heater with zero problems . But i just use Diesel and sometimes kerosene . Kerosene is more expensive than diesel in southern U.S. but I have a kerosene heater also. I enjoy watching you guys gumup your machines with all these burnt oil and used vegetable oil fuels . The pecking noise is the only problem I have . Maybe put the pump in a box like some do . I am thinking of hooking up a solar panel with batteries to run it , instead of a small electric battery charger with batteries that I now use . Stay safe ! I went through that unattached phase a few years ago and am enjoying my unsupervised 2nd childhood . Stay warm !
These heaters are great and generally don't have issues if you burn diesel, and the air fuel ratio is correct. I enjoy experimenting, so I'm glad you enjoy watching the experiments. I would suggest hanging your pump from a soft spring or springs. I have found that it makes a huge difference what they are mounted to and how rigidly they are mounted. Inside a box of foam peanuts or something like that is sure to work well, as well, but it's more about the transfer of the jolt than it is about the pump itself making noise. I think solar is a good idea in many cases... of course as long as you have a large enough battery for the sun down / cloudy time. It is currently -31ºC (-24ºF) and I have my heater running outside on a RV battery with a small charger.
commenting to help boost you! ive been enjoying these videos and picked up a pair of my own 5kw heaters off facebook, they are fun to fudge around with!
Oh Lawdy..Another heavily entertaining video as always risking life and limb and, well, equipment 😆 The ' Just send it' attitude keeps us coming back to your garage for intriguing shenanigans.. Stay safe my friend
LOL.,,. so ... I have responded to this comment twice already.... and it keeps showing up as unresponded to.... In the last two, I made a joke about a certain political party, and it looks like my comment is being blocked or deleted.
Thank you for these videos. Now I know what not to burn in my Diesel Heater. Here in Germany the cheapest fuel is "Heizöl" (Heating oil) for use in house heating. This stuff is almost the same as Diesel, but cheaper. It works perfect, no problems. Today we have -7°C and my Diesel Heater is heating my working room in the house. So I am still impressed how good these chinese Diesel heaters work if you use it Diesel or Heating Oil. I like to watch your experimments to learn what can happen... 👍
Thanks for your comment ! 😁 Yes, my videos are a great example of what not to do. I have heard that many places in Europe, that Kerosene, and heating oil are cheap. Where I live, road diesel, even with road tax, is less than half the price of kerosene, and heating oil is only sold on the east coast of Canada. If you have a 1000L tank, you can get farm fuel (no road tax diesel) and save some money, but the delivery trucks will generally not deliver less than $600 - $800. Today we had -21C and I was using my heater to heat my house for a test. It was able to maintain about 12C. I was quite impressed, but also cold, haha. I hope to keep you entertained with my upcoming videos. Take care and stay warm !
Aw, C'MON! You used NEW Varsol... What'll happen if you burned the greasy residue straight out of the parts washer just prior to it being changed? I see a whole pile of residue in that one. And a very short pump life.... 30 Meters! Atta boy! looking forward to the test!
Haha... good point. Now I have to go to some shop and be like... "look that way for a minute" ... Of just bring them a gallon of fresh stuff and say "wanna make a trade" I'm curious if it would effect the pump life. Some say these pumps are fussy and others like myself, have abused the crap out of them with no issues... Dave McLuckie pointed out that they use the same pump on the gasoline versions of these heaters.... So it doesn't appear that they need any lubricity, like many have claimed. It would be interesting to see of any of the fine grit caused a problem. That would be an interesting test... Though I feel it would have to burn several gallons.
A few people have been waiting really long for this one. To try to speed it up I have started adding Sausage fat as well... but it's the same thing... right ?
I really enjoy your videos! I live in the North of Scotland, and have just bought an HCalory diesel heater, but haven't used it yet. I find your tests of different fuels very interesting. As a retired Chief Marine Engineer, I would just say that, unless the fuel has some lubrication content, the fuel pump may have a short life!! (I'm sure you know that already!!).
Hello sir and thank you for your comment. A lot of people have this opinion of the pump life, but this type of pump doesn't seem to care. They use the exact same unit on gasoline fired heaters, and they run for years without issue. I have not had a single pump issue despite my abuse, so that says a lot for the durability of of them. From what I have heard, from reliable sources, what kills the pumps is the same thing that kills carburetors ... leaving them sit from long periods.... although I didn't think diesel went bad quickly.
@@charlesauld8494 Some people say my testing is pointless and proves nothing... I feel sorry for those people, because regardless of the silly experiment, you always learn something... It may not have anything to do with the test you are trying to perform, but you will learn something 👍
I agree 100%!!! I do like your attitude, and your commitment to your goal, no matter how silly it may appear! I'd have had you as my 2nd Engineer anytime!!
@@loweredexpectations4927 one thing I did learn is I can kill these pumps no problem lol just get them off there 45° angle either straight up and down when the pump starts going it will tick away until you shut it down I seized 2 pumps this way trying to make them quiet it worked for the most part my thinking is that the pump locked it self or the coil fried im not sure which hopefully in one of your experiments that you can take one apart and see how this pump actually works
Hi, I live in a 1-family house in Germany with an oil central heating system (which our "best government ever" has just banned. As soon as it breaks down, you are no longer allowed to install a new oil central heating system. At the same time, the CO2 air tax was raised prematurely here. I have a 5000 liter heating oil tank in the house for the central heating, but I only switch it on once a week for an hour to produce hot water in winter time. I have been heating my workshop in the basement of the house for a few weeks with a 5KW Vevor China Diesel Heater. I have installed the Vevor in an old PC tower housing and protected it from moisture with a tarpaulin. The Vevor stands in front of my basement window. I opened the window. Then I closed it again with an MDF pressboard. I sawed an approx. 100 mm hole in the MDF board to feed through the heating hose and the cables for the 12V and control unit. I then added a layer of thermal insulation board on the inside, which I cut to press-fit. I have the Vevor control panel on my desk. I made a holder with the 3D printer to put it up. I installed it so that the Vevor diesel heater outside the window transports fresh air from the outside to the inside and heats the air at the same time. This has the advantage that you always have fresh air in the heated room. The efficiency of the heating is then slightly lower, but you don't have to air the room every few hours. I have found a simple solution for tapping heating oil from my 5000 liter oil tank of the oil central heating system and then refilling 10 liter canisters. This is the cheapest way to heat in Germany. But I know that diesel is much cheaper in the USA, for example, because taxes are not as high there and there is no CO2 air tax. We are the front runner when it comes to high energy prices. This is not due to price fluctuations on the world market, but because the German government deliberately makes energy expensive. In Germany, heating oil currently costs €1.11 per liter, including delivery and taxes, for orders of 500 liters or more. Diesel costs €1.80 per liter including taxes at the filling station today. Further tax increases have already been announced for the coming years. Why the effort? I only heat one room (my workshop) to save costs. This is much cheaper with the Vevor than with central heating. With the Vevor diesel heater, I avoid heat loss by heating up the water and circulation. I have documented my consumption: From December 17, 2023 to today, it is 23.11 liters of heating oil consumption of the Vevor diesel heating system. I designed the Vevor heater so that it is not permanently installed. This means it is like a parking heater in a car and is not affected by the ban on oil heating in Germany. In the winter months, I place the heater in front of my cellar window. In summer, I can store the Vevor heater in the cellar, protected from the weather. In summer, I use my solar power system to generate hot water with an adapted electric boiler. I don't do this for the German "climate religion", but to save money. Hopefully I'll be able to survive another two years until we get a sensible government here in Germany again.
Yes, it is insanity. Our surcharges and carbon taxes have gone WAY up with our current government. It sounds like it will be worth repairing your oil burning instead of replacing it, if something happens. I have to wonder how far this nonsense will go before it all collapses and returns to "normal". It is now -28C here today and I am using my diesel heater as well as our natural gas furnace to keep my house warm. Your situation makes me think you should have a few diesel heaters as a back up or for when they decide to ban them... The government is supposed to work for the people, but I haven't seen a country yet where it actually works that way. Our leaders are complete clowns, and my current government is making laws so that they can lock my bank account or ban me from the internet for saying that. They forget that this is how rebellions happen.
Hi, Thanks for your response. Where I live, we're fortunately spared from temperatures lower than -5°C in winter. When it does happen, it's usually only for a few days. Living in a region where it gets as cold as -28°C is undoubtedly much more challenging. Currently, there's a requirement to replace oil heaters older than 30 years, with an exception for property owners who reside in the property themselves for at least 25 years. This exception applies to me. Currently, it's still allowed to repair existing oil central heating systems (up to the year 2045). I've taken it upon myself to acquire the knowledge to repair my oil heater and have even built up a stock of the most frequently needed spare parts. This way, I can continue to maintain the oil heater on my own for a longer period. Yes, I've even purchased a spare Vevor 5kW diesel heater. Additionally, I've stocked up on common spare parts for the Vevor diesel heater. Currently, I'm testing whether the Vevor heater is sufficient to adequately heat my working room. I've been using the Vevor heater since December 17, 2023, and it has been running smoothly with heating oil from my 5000-liter tank. I had to equip the large air intake opening with a hose to ensure fresh air is drawn directly from outside rather than from the surrounding PC enclosure. The problem was that when filling the Vevor tank, a few drops of heating oil would sometimes go beside the filling opening, causing the room to smell strongly of heating oil. The annoying smell disappeared only after attaching the air intake hose. It's not always possible to avoid a drop of heating oil during refueling. With this modification, I have now solved the problem. My goal was to find a legal alternative solution in case my oil central heating became irreparably damaged. However, I am now enthusiastic about the Vevor heater. It consumes less heating oil and simultaneously provides fresh air in the working room while heating. This is better than the traditional oil heater, which operates with convection, requiring regular ventilation but losing heat each time. I wish you all the best. I find your videos very entertaining. As a newcomer to the Vevor diesel heater, I initially had the impression that this heater is very unreliable and needs attention every two days. This perception arose because almost all TH-cam videos are about self-induced problems, with very few reports on how the heater functions when used correctly with clean fuel (diesel or heating oil). Due to its unbeatable price, I decided to test it myself and am so far very satisfied.
@@Aetek Good for you for taking action and preparing to repair your heater if needed. What is the alternative heat source ? What is everyone switching to ? It is much better to recirculate your air from the heater, and pull in fresh air somewhere else, if necessary. Your house will not be sealed up well enough that getting fresh air is a problem. If you have a forced air oil furnace, it will have a fresh air intake where some fresh air will always come in. It is currently -33C here today, but it is supposed to warm up over the next few days. Haha... yes, these heaters have been around for decades and used on vehicles. When run on diesel, they generally go thousands of hours without the need of any service. Parts are cheap and available, and they are very easy to repair when you do need to.
This is a great experiment. The Solvable brand sells 'mineral spirits' which would be an interesting comparison. My guess is that the mineral spirits will burn the cleanest.
I have an Ice fishing tent, and in the past I have used it at -15c with some good winds, with only a 5000btu propane heater and it was able to keep it warm, the issue is condensation. I have a feeling the diesel heater will have absolutely no issue keeping the tent warm, even on the lower settings.
I have been wanting to test this. I have a buddy that does some ice fishing and almost arranged a last minute trip out last week, but it didn't happen.
Really interesting. I find these alternative fuel videos not only really awesome, but I love that you tear them apart right after running them 🙂 Have you tried running seafoam in the heater, with diesel or waste oil, to see if it helps clean out any of the junk?
@@loweredexpectations4927 Oh interesting. I know when I sprayed seafoam into the intake of a vehicle and ran it around maybe 2000 RPM I got ALL sorts of black smoke out the exhaust.
i heard about the heater looked aroud on yt for a review as im thinking of geting one for my home and foud 'lowered expectations' and i have seen all his vid s on it have to say very entertaining
@@wallacegrommet9343 Yeah... they seem to be more similar to the Planar, but a little more reasonably priced. I don't know that the extra cost can be justified for the better quality components, unless you are installing on a vehicle. I currently had to upgrade the plug on BJ's 4Runner as it corroded away.
I saw the long exhuast pipe and my it reminded me of when i tried to max out the heat exchange using a long exhuast, like 12 feet vertical inside the garage, i figured it would still draft as it was vertical on the wall but man it got plugged after a very short time. It totally carbonized burn chamber and the whole pipe was so full of carbon i could have fillled a gallon jug. These machines need a short exhuast that stays oretty hot to prevent carbon build up
Haha... thanks for the heads up. I fully expect for this to happen.... My goal is to see how much is too much. I am fairly certain that the heat of the exhaust isn't the limiting factor. What I assume is happening, is the exhaust is causing a restriction. This means less air coming in for the combustion process and so incomplete combustion. If a person were to lower the heat setting, and put less demand on the flow, or lean out the fuel mixture, this could stop the soot. Ultimately, X flow is required for X kw, and the more restriction you add, the fewer kw you can produce without issues.
I'm hoping that I can get it to work better than my tests from last year, but expecting failure. I have a few plans to modify the chamber to hopefully help prolong the time between cleanings.
I have thought of that... I have a video where I tried pure Methanol and it sort of worked. It doesn't make very much heat... I'm guessing you could increase the fuel rate and it would work ok... I may try that again with my drip feed system. Thanks for the idea.
I have a package unit heatpump. I took the blower side door off and mounted it inside the unit piped it out and. Set it up so when its on the blower runs. Been using it about 2 months now. The temp was 15°f last week and with the 8k diesel the heat pump ran very little maybe 2-3 hrs total over 24hrs. Ordinarily it would run non stop and the heat strips would cycle to reach target temp with it that cold outside.
@loweredexpectations4927 the 4 ton heatpump part no but i have 2 for a total of 6 tons. The 15kw and 5kw heat strips yes, because the units run non stop in temps under 25° and the heat strips cycle every hour. My typical winter power bill is north if 650$ weather depending. My house is 2650sf and I can get away with running the diesel heater on 4 and leave the upstairs HP offcompletely. And maintain 68° in the house.
@@DAMAGE-X- Right on, thanks... I don't know much about heat pump systems. I thought the idea was that they both pulled heat from the earth in cool temps and put heat into it when it is hot. I do remember reading or hearing something about different styles.
The tent test sounds interesting. I imagine that the heater could be a little loud for sleeping. I'm Trying to figure out how I can make my heater super quiet
Many have battled with trying to make the heater quiet. There doesn't seem to be any one solution. It seems like just a small change at the air inlet or outlet (heating air ducts) can bale a huge difference. Putting a finger in front of the inlet can cut the sound in half, if you place it "right"
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes I kinda noticed that and were thinking of enclosing the burner in a box with maybe Rockwool or something like that maybe less sketchy because of glass fibres, but it must withstand heat.. Edit: maybe adding fan to reduce air resistance but that's challenging somewhere else due to different fan speeds of the heater. I'm going to try maybe with success :D
Hey Joel, Try DME, dimethyl either. Synthetic diesel you can burn in a spark ignition engine, I guess, that's what I read. Might burn better than diesel, lower ash?
Is this something that is readily available ? I did a quick search and could find what it was, but only a few lab suppliers that have it. One place that had a price and it was $104 a liter.
If you want to get rid of 15ft of that fuel line, I'll take some off your hands😊. Just bought 40 liters of diesel and need a long line to run from the jerry cans to the heater. With this cold snap I'm gonna be running the heater a lot!
Haha! I'm not sure what quality it is... I jumped on aliexpress and think it was a few dollars for 10 metres. I will have a bunch left over, you are welcome to at some point, but I can't vouch for the quality if it, haha.
Dont know where to message you, but i have an idea of a video! Testing the Seafoam products to clean the chamber while the unit is running !! Should be interesting!
Do you mean you are suking combusion air or air for the heat exchanger ? If you are sucking air in outside air for the heat exchanger, this will make a HUGE difference. If possible, you want to recirculate the heated air. If you are referring to the combustion air, (the 1 inch / 25mm hose) this make a lot less of a difference.
Could you tap a thread for a car injector to go in to atomize waste engine oil use a seperate pump for the pressure, and use the pulse that would normally go to the dose pump to trigger the injector. Hopefully getting a cleaner burn or finer particles that would make it out of the heater?
It would be great if you could.... and technically you could do something like this... but it is much harder than it may first seem. The biggest issue is the extremely small volume of fuel that these burn. On a larger heater this would be pretty easy to control, and this sort of how torpedo heaters work. These heaters take 1000 pulses of the pump to burn 22ml of diesel. That is about two tablespoons. When you break it down, the level of precision that you would need to control flow would be pretty crazy ... This is precisely why they use what they call a "dosing" pump. So while it could be done, it would mean running a high pressure pump, an very small and accurate injector with a much more sophisticated control system.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Thanks for taking the time to reply makes sense always wondered why they don't have injecton for super accurate burn. Love watching your channel!
@@Coffeebean1482 Last year I did work on a system that uses a SNA nozzle from a torpedo heater, but didn't get too far before spring came. Hope to try it again, but I don't think it will be user friendly.
@@loweredexpectations4927 looking forward to it I have lots of waste oil. I currently mix in waste veg oil but I can only add a very small amount per 20ltr tank about 1ltr to avoid plugging the heater up with soot
I have tried 20% peanut oil and managed to burn about 3 gallons before plugging up the burn chamber with a nasty sticky mess. Now waiting on new burn chamber mesh from China... I know you have done a lot of burn chamber mods so hope you have better results....
I haven't tried it. Sounds like it works about as good as most other oils. The stuff that causes the problems is glycerin. To make biodiesel, you can use methanol and lye to remove the lye... a bit of a process, but then you have useable fuel. Were you able to get your mesh out ? Some of them are spot welded in.
None of these petroleum-distillate solvents are precisely specified. If you did a lab analysis of Varsol (or similar) from batches in two different years, or from different source refineries, you'd probably find them to be different somewhat. Same is true for gasoline and diesel and kerosene, etc. Although fuel mixtures are likely more "tightly" specified.
Yeah... I can see how that makes sense. When you understand how these things are made (even on a superficial level) it's easy to understand that they aren't going to be exactly the same from batch to batch. I'm sure they all have standards / thresholds for the fractions and then different mix of this and that.
Have you tried Coleman Fuel or Crown Camp Fuel? The stuff used in liquid fuel camp stoves and lanterns. In theory it should have the same burn characteristics as Unleaded Gasoline but lacks any of the additives.
I have looked into this and plan on trying it. I can't get the crown stuff, from what I can tell, but Coleman is sold here. It costs twice as much as in the US , but I can get it, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 In my area, I see Crown fuel at Walmart, usually next to the Coleman Fuel (and a couple bucks cheaper) or the small propane bottles in the camping isle.
The flash point would be very very very dangerous. Coleman gas is as flammable as gasoline -- both of which will turn that diesel heater into a flame thrower. Do not do this -- unless you need a flame thrower for the zombie apocalypse.
Hello ... I do not have any experience with these heaters. I'm not sure what you mean by "set this up for best results"... I assume fuel ratio? If it has adjustable air fuel ratio, your best option is to purchase a good CO meter and set the ratio so that it is running with as little CO as possible. I have been able to get my heater between 15 and 30 PPM.
@loweredexpectations4927 - thx for input - i was thinking more on how to utilize the waterheater - i was thinking of using an old radiator or maybe some other setup. It will be used to heat my small isolated shed which is about 4m x 6m and about 2,5 m to ceiling.
@@aaronpeterson385 Yeah, I've seen a few of those videos. I suspect the sand battery for a heater won't be as efficient, but may have it's place. Sand batteries by nature, absorb energy a little slower than other mediums, like water, aluminum and copper .... but they also release the energy more slowly. If you are using a san battery and hope to actually heat a space with the stored energy, you either need a huge battery with a large surface area, and or a really well insulated area. The "battery" part of the sand means they are good at storing energy and don't release it quickly... You need to trap / insulate well enough so that the release rate of the energy from your battery is about the same as the release rate of your insulation... Wow... that turned into a rant.
Hey there I am from Red Deer just down the road from you I was thinking about putting one of these heaters in my RZR and using it as heat have you tried a mobile version or is that what your wheelbarrow is for I was wondering if they would flame out them on different angles and no tilt
Hey ! Not all burn chambers are the same. They all have a air hole to initiate the flame on start up, and the location of this is different. The reason this matters is fuel can come out of this with the heater at some angles. WIth my old heater, I could tip it past 90º side to side with no issue at all, but tipping it up or down past 45 would be an issue (with the air outlet pointing up, or down. They can be thrashed around without issue, but some angles can be problematic. Some chambers will have the air hole in one side and that means you can only tip one way about 45, and the other 90. Hope this helps.
I tried 70/30 and had issues pretty quickly. You may get away with a few percent as the unburnt stuff may get carried away with the exhaust, but I have tried lots of different mixtures and haven't had any luck.
i got this idea for you, i have been following your channel. i work with nuts and oils for food and i drive my car on WVO. Vevor sell a Oil press for foodoils. For views, content and promotion you could do a review of the Oil press i have been trying to find effenciy numbers for the oil extraction cause my Beechnuts are very expensive. but you can make oil from cheap or free acorns etc. burn it or use it for wood treatment. just a tip! :)
the product is also interesting for homesteading or preppers. A old diesel generator will run 4 ever on acorn oil surival tip 4 when the zombies arrive@@loweredexpectations4927
That depends a LOT on where you live. Where I am, in Calgary Alberta Canada, Diesel is currently $1.48 / litre and is the cheapest I can reasonably get. IF I had money to invest, I could buy a large storage tank, and take delivery of marked diesel / red diesel. This does not have road taxes so it is cheaper, but you generally can't just buy 100L of it. There is usually either a minimum order or a large delivery fee. I believe heating oil is the exact same stuff as marked diesel, and is more readily available on the East Coast of Canada but still has a minimum order. I have been told, in some places, Kerosene is less than diesel, but where I am it is between 2x and 4x the cost of road diesel. A few people have told me that where they are, cottonseed oil is very cheap and that they have been burning it, but I have not tried, and it is crazy expensive here. Many people have claimed that you can burn all sorts of waste petroleum oils, but from my testing, this is not true and you will have issues in just a few days, maximum. Others have said that you can burn all sorts of vegetable oils, but I have seen many videos and recieved many comments on disaster when trying to run this for more than a few days. You can use methanol and lye to convert veg oil into biodiesel, and this will apparently work fine, but I have not done it, and it takes a bit of work.
I have run my diesel heater on biodiesel and I have run it on only biodiesel i mix it a 10 % methanol and 7 % lye and I have run it on just wvo for up to 15 hour on setting 4.7 on my unit
Cool. Do you wash your biodiesel or just drain off the glycerin ? I would like to do this some day but feel like it's a lot of work unless you're doing it on a fairly large scale.
I have received my 16' of exhaust... so I may be able to make this happen. Supposedly, the exhaust heat is about 800 watts... I just Googled it most ovens are between 1000 and 2400 W... so a small oven at 800W should work, haha. I could use the oven in my shop, and just use the exhaust to heat it... maybe.
@@markhunt6573 Very interesting. Where I am, canola oil is a big thing, but the price of it is still very high. I don't think that anything is cheap here... but our fuel might be cheap compared to others. I just got gasoline $1.20/ litre and diesel $1.48/ litre. The only want to get cheap oil here is used stuff.
binged a bunch of your vids and superscribe have you thought about trying to use paraffin lamp oil? ive a few lamps around the house and think it be interesting
Thanks for the support and for the suggestion / comment ! I have looked into paraffin before and it is pretty expensive where I am. I'm looking for a more reasonable source as what I can find now is $50+ per gallon. It would be interesting !
Haha ! I knew this was coming sooner or later. I have tried burning Methanol and even with pure alcohol, these heaters are just barely able to keep running. The heat output is VERY low.
Varsol (according to MSDS) contains toluene, which doesn't burn cleanly, even producing small amounts of benzene in the process, which is double-plus un-good for you. I'm surprised you don't have more smoke, though.
Thanks for the heads up... I was planning on burning Toluene... Maybe I will pass on that one. I have been checking into how dangerous stuff is before I burn it... for any real "no nos" Yeah... there was no smoke at all, once it was fully warmed up.
I recall burning straight toluene on cattails when I was a kid--making burning torches for fun. It smelled nasty while burning, and produced copious amounts of stringy black soot. But, burning in a forced-air combustor is a different story. Even diesel produces some benzene in the combustion products, so I don't know how much more toluene produces. I do remember it smelling awful.
@@patchvonbraun "I recall burning straight toluene on cattails when I was a kid". Seems like something I would do. What is toluene used for... why did you have access to it ?
It's a pretty-generic industrial solvent, mostly used as a lacquer thinner, dissolves polystyrene--so often used in model-making styrene cements. Usually a component in both PVC and ABS cements for plumbing. My dad was a chemist, and there was usually a good stock of solvents around that I could pilfer some of for my own experiments. Some of those experiments were officially sanctioned by dad, others, perhaps not so much :)
HAHA... he doesn't always just let it happen... but I've gotten pretty good at it... We had to try 2-3 different harnesses before we found one that works. This one is all one string with a plastic piece that makes it cross on his back. You open the loop for his head (very large), put it on and cinch it up as you do this you are left with a clasp at the plastic piece and one that has to go around his belly. His mom isn't nearly as good at this and she often fails and has to give up. Once he's angry, you have to stop, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have a home built waste oil burner that heats my shop, but I was looking at these to experiment with burning waste oil, looks like they would need some modifications to burn the oil with out issue, I am sure it can be done, a little bit of trial and error to figure it out. here is a short that shows the flame I have, its almost over kill for my 1100 sqaure foot shop. th-cam.com/users/shortsEZ686iHP5jU?si=CQWFF0Xfcg_20GeL
I have some set aside and will be doing this test, if everything goes to plan. I will likely start by diluting it with diesel at first, as I have read accounts that it causes a lot of build up.
@@johnr8996 Thanks...Was this the fist "alternative" fuel that you tried ? Wondering if you started with a clean camber. I only ask because I did a lot of tests that viewers suggested, and was never 100% sure if my results were tarnished from not starting with a new chamber. I fully expect it to be the same as waste motor oil. Still going to give it a go though.
Okay... now what ? Haha. I'm not sure where you are going with this? There are a lot of things loosely labeled as "paint thinner", so my results are all over the places.
You hit the nail on the head with one of my costly "to-do" list items.... I've been wanting to do this for almost a year how, haha.... not with potassium nitrate though, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 As a kid I used to spray it in the carburetor of my pit bike when it didn’t want to start. I bet you can start a heater with it as well 🙂
"You smell that?" "Yep... Smells a little like cancer. You reckon we oughta leave the room?" "Nah, I don't know about you but the purple giraffe reminds me of the number Saturn 🪐... Trippy." (Imaginary conversations I could see happening) "....cuts the Hertz in half." "I don't think it hurts much at all."
@@loweredexpectations4927 my expectations are so low... I keep a watchful eye out for falling whale turds... And not so swimmy politicians. Lol .. ooh... I think I just found Jimmy Hoffa.... I mean some totally random person wearing a very stylish pair of concrete waterproof boots... Yeah, that's what I meant to say.
I really want to do that as well.... I've been trying to figure out the most cost effective way to get a gallon. I know I don't NEED a gallon, but I want to try to keep all the tests close to the same, so that the comparisons are fair. Algorithm gods have been appeased.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have got ONE other suggestion to try, but it's not fuel related. I've seen a few videos where people have run the exhaust through heat exchangers, and one where they used an old cast iron domestic steam radiator......... But what about one of the cheep modern pressed steel radiators? I'm thinking it would need a couple of large tubes welding into it for the exhaust to fit snugly into, and as the radiator would be inside (With the original exhaust connecting to it's outlet and threaded outdoors) it would also need the joints sealing pretty well, but I reckon once all the paint stopped burning off, the thing would be recovering a ridicules amount of heat........... But would the increased back pressure cause burn problems, Would it resonate like crazy, and would the radiator survive long at those sort of temperatures?
I'm not sure what you mean.... What is the lowest setting ? The lowest setting is 01 and the highest setting is 06. On this heater pushing the left button increases heat and the right lowers heat. On my other heaters they range from 1 to 10.
What I mean is, the lowest setting before it starts to malfunction,.the burning 🔥. I have been running myn for years on my possible lowest, which Is 9 pulsing of the pump. Once or twice a year I clean the burner by blowing it out with a compressor.
@@rudikessels9492 Ok. I understand a little more, but not fully. By "9 pulsing of the pump" do you mean 9hz ? 9 pulses per second ? If you have to clean it out that often, it means you are getting too much fuel, or not enough air. Are you able to post a video showing what you mean ?
ok, not enough air ratio . i understand , do you have a video about that how to change air feul ratio. thank you for responding by the way.@@loweredexpectations4927
@@rudikessels9492 I do not have a video specifically about this. I suggest watching David McLuckiee's video called Diesel heater tuning - using cheap CO gauge. There are others as well like Adjusting your Chinese Diesel parking heater for High altitude elevation or sea level use. I will try to post the links in a separate comment.
The two mixed together, or one and then the other ? I have some used ATF I plan on testing ... I may have a gallon of hydraulic fluid of some sort... Kubota tractor stuff.
Mine is currently running on a mix of used ulv transmission fluid diesel and a splash of gas, it’s been on non stop for 2 days no issues so far, I’d be curious how it would run on straight atf
@@isaacfast1057 I hope you don't' have issues, but from what I've heard from others, your issues will start to appear in another day or two. I haven't tried this myself, so I don't know if the issue is carbon, or some other build up. If you are using this as your main heat source / depending on this heater, it would be a good idea to have a spare burn chamber or to at least switch to diesel for a few hours. From experience, my heater would run ok on waste oil, then I'd shut it down and out wouldn't restart, or restart but work poorly and make a lot of smoke.
Well, I'm going through a separation currently and I'm likely not going to be able to afford the buyout on my house... If this is the case, I ma be homeless for a while or perhaps I'll rent some wearhouse space and live there.
@@loweredexpectations4927well, if you'd like to head south... C'mon down... I'm about in the middle of America... If you don't have passport, just walk across... I hear no one cares nowadays anyway.
You're going to have you shouldn't be exhausting that out the window right there they got a window right there why aren't you exhaust and get out the window so you don't have to smell it that's why it has exhaust
Thanks for your concern, Andy. Yes, these should be vented outside. The idea of these tests is to try to get an accurate comparisons between different chemicals. If I vent the exhaust, I would not be able to collect this data. From this test, we can clearly see that Varsol is much worse than diesel and paint thinner, but we wouldn't know this if the gasses were all vented outside. I monitor the fumes and limit my exposure by not spending much time in the garage. While the gasses by the exhaust are very bad, the gasses diffuse over distance and are not bad only a few feet away. I worked for many years as a mechanic and know that many people spend their entire day in much worse.
I has a strong suspicion that this was the case, but the "internet" says that kerosene has a lower flash point ... I haven't had much experience with kerosene, but the Varsol didn't want to burn as well as paint thinner or diesel.🤷♂️
LOL.... um... H2S... I'll just head to my local welding shop and ask for a few tanks full 🤣 I'm sure they won't look at me funny. I was going to say "Air Liquide" ... but unless your Canadian, I don't know if that's a thing.
Aaron has more experience with this than I do, so I would listen to him. Personally I think it has a lot to do with how you vent the air. I have noticed sometimes it's really loud, and simply changing the shape of the inlet by placing a finger in front of it makes a huge difference. I suspect that this wouldn't be an issue if you are willing to mess with it a little...
@@aaronpeterson385 I could do a quick test and see if it burns, but I am fairly certain it will ... I'd really like to run a gallon through and see what deposits are left behind.... that was I stay consistent with my other tests.
As interesting as this is it's not giving people cheaper solutions for heating get back to solving the burning waist oil problem and when you figure it out your views will be in the millions 🤑
Haha... yes.... I would love to solve this problem... especially as it is currently -31C and the temp is dropping for the next few days.... and fuel isn't cheap. I have a few burn chambers on order and have some stuff planned... I am going to try to make / test a extended use / less maintenance option.... and probably try a diesel / oil mix at lower oil ratios. I have been strongly considering building a full custom waste oil burner using only the control system from a diesel heater. I have a few ideas but have been very busy with other things.
@@loweredexpectations4927 last year we played with the % of mixing them for a few weeks until it got cold not -30c but cold enough that it needed to work reliability. I've got a idea instead of running a mix first change the settings to run as lean as possible and then figure out a way to add oil in front/after the diesel combustion chamber possibly just dripping it in a few mm in front of the washer onto something that's getting red hot from the diesel burning. By running it lean I'm hoping there's going to be enough oxygen left for the oil to burn clean it might need extra air. The main point in what I'm thinking is the diesel side won't get blocked up and the oil side could be designed to make cleaning simple and quick
@@colinhamer6506 Yes, the idea of injecting waste oil just after the baffle has been on my mind for quite some time... I had a few discussions with viewers about this last winter and have considered a few possible problems, but it should extend use. I always struggle with the implementation of this as there are a lot of unanswered questions. In my idea, the heater starts and runs on min with clean diesel. A second control system will then inject fuel in at a higher rate and take over control of the fan. I'm not sure if the "take over the fan" can be done with a diode, so that the first ECU doesn't pick up a fault, or if it would still fault... This could require some "fancy" electronics, and really don't want to get into that. It may very well be that the primary system can be shut down totally, but this is not part of my plan. Second problem is that you need extra air to burn the waste oil, but will this cause issues with the primary diesel burn or cause it to flame out ? I know that they run very cool if you put too much air, so 4000 rpm and 1hz will likely cause a flame out, but the waste oil will need that extra air. For this reason, I am designing (in CAD) and burn chamber that only allows a small amount of air flow into the primary (original) burn area, and delivers the majority of air to the area just outside of the baffled area. This is just one of my ideas... I have several other ideas and came up with a new one last evening that I think is really cool... even if it doesn't work, haha. I think the "real" trick here is to have the waste oil burn in a space where it is easily cleaned, as it is certain to get dirty. I have been spending a lot of time thinking about ways to incorporate the control system, (ECU, pump fans) into a burner made from a 20lb propane cylinder, or something like that.
@@loweredexpectations4927 sounds like you have a very similar idea in mind as I have. I've built a few big waste oil heaters the last one had a 🛢 on it's side on top of a gas bottle and when it was tuned in it got cherry red using around 3 litres a hour and no smoke at all. The problem I had was using a gravity drip feed the changes in viscosity of the oil as the temperature changed etc it needed a eye on it all the time a few years later I found a wibasto heater and got the idea of using the same sort of tec to make using waist oil safe. The burn chamber you are designed sounds good just make sure the air that goes to the oil is hot
How about trying to use the hot air from the diesel heater to inflate a tent, or one of those inflatable fancy dress outfits. Could you make it burn solid fuel? Moonshine, potato vodka.
I like this .... "but what's a fancy dress outfit" ? I have been considering firing it up on diesel with some hardwood inside of the burn tube... then trying to see if I can keep it going till it consumes it all... I like this. I had also considered Doritos ... I think you'd have to refill often.How about sugar... Some real good moonshine might work, haha.
Been following since last year, I got one of these chinese diesel heaters to keep my greenhouse frost free. Never expected it to not shut down / start up based on temperature. However a bit of arduino coding and a relay and aspirated sensor and some direct wiring to the control module of the heater has produced what I needed. It has been working flawlessly for over 6 months now, after debugging timings to initiate and shutdown the heater, and to allow for cooldown before attempting restart. Love your exploits and experiments and your last vid on the remote thermostat would have saved me a few hours work had it been available when I started the project. :) Keep up the great work if you can, I love your content.
Very cool... I love the engineering creativity ! Some of the new controllers do shut down and start based on temp, but most do not.
Yes, the Bureck would have worked well for you, but I applaud your creativity. Thanks for sharing.
Also wanted to say that you have exactly the right outlook on life, prepare for an emergency before it comes, afterward is too late for many reasons. Civilization seems to have bred the survival instinct out of a lot of people.
Haha.. yes, if you are not ready before shit hits the fan, you chances of figuring it out after aren't nearly as good.
Anxiously awaiting the view of the mushroom cloud over your part of town
🤣... My garage has hurricane straps with a double 2x6 base plate, 8" steel reinforced concrete retaining wall / footing, tied into my 8" high pressure concrete floor that is also rebar reinforced with stuff I got on Kijiji from commercial high rise leftovers.
You might get hit with a piece of my garage door when it pops off 🤣
Your creativity and willingness to push the limits of these heaters is amazing. I look forward to seeing each one and have really become interested in getting a DH because of your efforts. Very educational! Thank you!
Wow, thanks for the kind comment. I really enjoy tinkering with all things mechanical. I'm glad you are enjoying the content !
Hello ! This is the 2nd year that I have been using my heater with zero problems . But i just use Diesel and sometimes kerosene . Kerosene is more expensive than diesel in southern U.S. but I have a kerosene heater also. I enjoy watching you guys gumup your machines with all these burnt oil and used vegetable oil fuels . The pecking noise is the only problem I have . Maybe put the pump in a box like some do . I am thinking of hooking up a solar panel with batteries to run it , instead of a small electric battery charger with batteries that I now use . Stay safe ! I went through that unattached phase a few years ago and am enjoying my unsupervised 2nd childhood . Stay warm !
These heaters are great and generally don't have issues if you burn diesel, and the air fuel ratio is correct.
I enjoy experimenting, so I'm glad you enjoy watching the experiments.
I would suggest hanging your pump from a soft spring or springs. I have found that it makes a huge difference what they are mounted to and how rigidly they are mounted. Inside a box of foam peanuts or something like that is sure to work well, as well, but it's more about the transfer of the jolt than it is about the pump itself making noise.
I think solar is a good idea in many cases... of course as long as you have a large enough battery for the sun down / cloudy time. It is currently -31ºC (-24ºF) and I have my heater running outside on a RV battery with a small charger.
deffenetly NOT an idiot , i have looked on meny vids of yours and learned a lot! thank you
Well thank. you ! ... and thank you for your support.
commenting to help boost you! ive been enjoying these videos and picked up a pair of my own 5kw heaters off facebook, they are fun to fudge around with!
Thanks for your support ! They are fun to mess with and have the bonus of keeping you warm, is you don't mess them up too bad, haha.
Oh Lawdy..Another heavily entertaining video as always risking life and limb and, well, equipment 😆 The ' Just send it' attitude keeps us coming back to your garage for intriguing shenanigans.. Stay safe my friend
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad people are watching and enjoying, because I enjoy the experiments, haha.
If you don't like the cold. Maybe move south. Florida is nice. But only after you test every fuel possible.
LOL.,,. so ... I have responded to this comment twice already.... and it keeps showing up as unresponded to.... In the last two, I made a joke about a certain political party, and it looks like my comment is being blocked or deleted.
i was just being funny with ya. Love the show so far. @@loweredexpectations4927
Thank you for these videos. Now I know what not to burn in my Diesel Heater. Here in Germany the cheapest fuel is "Heizöl" (Heating oil) for use in house heating. This stuff is almost the same as Diesel, but cheaper. It works perfect, no problems. Today we have -7°C and my Diesel Heater is heating my working room in the house. So I am still impressed how good these chinese Diesel heaters work if you use it Diesel or Heating Oil. I like to watch your experimments to learn what can happen... 👍
Thanks for your comment !
😁 Yes, my videos are a great example of what not to do. I have heard that many places in Europe, that Kerosene, and heating oil are cheap. Where I live, road diesel, even with road tax, is less than half the price of kerosene, and heating oil is only sold on the east coast of Canada.
If you have a 1000L tank, you can get farm fuel (no road tax diesel) and save some money, but the delivery trucks will generally not deliver less than $600 - $800.
Today we had -21C and I was using my heater to heat my house for a test. It was able to maintain about 12C. I was quite impressed, but also cold, haha.
I hope to keep you entertained with my upcoming videos. Take care and stay warm !
Aw, C'MON! You used NEW Varsol...
What'll happen if you burned the greasy residue straight out of the parts washer just prior to it being changed?
I see a whole pile of residue in that one. And a very short pump life....
30 Meters! Atta boy! looking forward to the test!
Haha... good point. Now I have to go to some shop and be like... "look that way for a minute" ... Of just bring them a gallon of fresh stuff and say "wanna make a trade"
I'm curious if it would effect the pump life. Some say these pumps are fussy and others like myself, have abused the crap out of them with no issues... Dave McLuckie pointed out that they use the same pump on the gasoline versions of these heaters.... So it doesn't appear that they need any lubricity, like many have claimed.
It would be interesting to see of any of the fine grit caused a problem. That would be an interesting test... Though I feel it would have to burn several gallons.
Great video as always. It was funny at 12:20 when we got to see the top band of your G-String.
🤣🤣🤣 #onlyfans in description.
Keep rocking Joel.
Thanks Martin !
Anytime bud..
Really interested to see the bacon fat haha
A few people have been waiting really long for this one. To try to speed it up I have started adding Sausage fat as well... but it's the same thing... right ?
Totally
Great video once again, man!
Looking forward to the next! 😀
Thanks !! I enjoy experimenting and making these videos.
I really enjoy your videos! I live in the North of Scotland, and have just bought an HCalory diesel heater, but haven't used it yet. I find your tests of different fuels very interesting.
As a retired Chief Marine Engineer, I would just say that, unless the fuel has some lubrication content, the fuel pump may have a short life!!
(I'm sure you know that already!!).
Hello sir and thank you for your comment. A lot of people have this opinion of the pump life, but this type of pump doesn't seem to care. They use the exact same unit on gasoline fired heaters, and they run for years without issue.
I have not had a single pump issue despite my abuse, so that says a lot for the durability of of them. From what I have heard, from reliable sources, what kills the pumps is the same thing that kills carburetors ... leaving them sit from long periods.... although I didn't think diesel went bad quickly.
That information about the fuel pump is good to know, for me, a new owner. That's one of the reasons I enjoy your videos!!
@@charlesauld8494 Some people say my testing is pointless and proves nothing... I feel sorry for those people, because regardless of the silly experiment, you always learn something... It may not have anything to do with the test you are trying to perform, but you will learn something 👍
I agree 100%!!!
I do like your attitude, and your commitment to your goal, no matter how silly it may appear!
I'd have had you as my 2nd Engineer anytime!!
@@loweredexpectations4927 one thing I did learn is I can kill these pumps no problem lol just get them off there 45° angle either straight up and down when the pump starts going it will tick away until you shut it down I seized 2 pumps this way trying to make them quiet it worked for the most part my thinking is that the pump locked it self or the coil fried im not sure which hopefully in one of your experiments that you can take one apart and see how this pump actually works
Hi,
I live in a 1-family house in Germany with an oil central heating system (which our "best government ever" has just banned. As soon as it breaks down, you are no longer allowed to install a new oil central heating system. At the same time, the CO2 air tax was raised prematurely here. I have a 5000 liter heating oil tank in the house for the central heating, but I only switch it on once a week for an hour to produce hot water in winter time. I have been heating my workshop in the basement of the house for a few weeks with a 5KW Vevor China Diesel Heater. I have installed the Vevor in an old PC tower housing and protected it from moisture with a tarpaulin. The Vevor stands in front of my basement window. I opened the window. Then I closed it again with an MDF pressboard. I sawed an approx. 100 mm hole in the MDF board to feed through the heating hose and the cables for the 12V and control unit. I then added a layer of thermal insulation board on the inside, which I cut to press-fit.
I have the Vevor control panel on my desk. I made a holder with the 3D printer to put it up. I installed it so that the Vevor diesel heater outside the window transports fresh air from the outside to the inside and heats the air at the same time. This has the advantage that you always have fresh air in the heated room. The efficiency of the heating is then slightly lower, but you don't have to air the room every few hours.
I have found a simple solution for tapping heating oil from my 5000 liter oil tank of the oil central heating system and then refilling 10 liter canisters. This is the cheapest way to heat in Germany.
But I know that diesel is much cheaper in the USA, for example, because taxes are not as high there and there is no CO2 air tax. We are the front runner when it comes to high energy prices. This is not due to price fluctuations on the world market, but because the German government deliberately makes energy expensive. In Germany, heating oil currently costs €1.11 per liter, including delivery and taxes, for orders of 500 liters or more. Diesel costs €1.80 per liter including taxes at the filling station today. Further tax increases have already been announced for the coming years. Why the effort? I only heat one room (my workshop) to save costs. This is much cheaper with the Vevor than with central heating. With the Vevor diesel heater, I avoid heat loss by heating up the water and circulation. I have documented my consumption: From December 17, 2023 to today, it is 23.11 liters of heating oil consumption of the Vevor diesel heating system.
I designed the Vevor heater so that it is not permanently installed. This means it is like a parking heater in a car and is not affected by the ban on oil heating in Germany. In the winter months, I place the heater in front of my cellar window. In summer, I can store the Vevor heater in the cellar, protected from the weather. In summer, I use my solar power system to generate hot water with an adapted electric boiler. I don't do this for the German "climate religion", but to save money. Hopefully I'll be able to survive another two years until we get a sensible government here in Germany again.
Yes, it is insanity. Our surcharges and carbon taxes have gone WAY up with our current government. It sounds like it will be worth repairing your oil burning instead of replacing it, if something happens.
I have to wonder how far this nonsense will go before it all collapses and returns to "normal".
It is now -28C here today and I am using my diesel heater as well as our natural gas furnace to keep my house warm. Your situation makes me think you should have a few diesel heaters as a back up or for when they decide to ban them...
The government is supposed to work for the people, but I haven't seen a country yet where it actually works that way. Our leaders are complete clowns, and my current government is making laws so that they can lock my bank account or ban me from the internet for saying that. They forget that this is how rebellions happen.
Hi,
Thanks for your response. Where I live, we're fortunately spared from temperatures lower than -5°C in winter. When it does happen, it's usually only for a few days. Living in a region where it gets as cold as -28°C is undoubtedly much more challenging. Currently, there's a requirement to replace oil heaters older than 30 years, with an exception for property owners who reside in the property themselves for at least 25 years. This exception applies to me. Currently, it's still allowed to repair existing oil central heating systems (up to the year 2045). I've taken it upon myself to acquire the knowledge to repair my oil heater and have even built up a stock of the most frequently needed spare parts. This way, I can continue to maintain the oil heater on my own for a longer period. Yes, I've even purchased a spare Vevor 5kW diesel heater. Additionally, I've stocked up on common spare parts for the Vevor diesel heater. Currently, I'm testing whether the Vevor heater is sufficient to adequately heat my working room. I've been using the Vevor heater since December 17, 2023, and it has been running smoothly with heating oil from my 5000-liter tank. I had to equip the large air intake opening with a hose to ensure fresh air is drawn directly from outside rather than from the surrounding PC enclosure. The problem was that when filling the Vevor tank, a few drops of heating oil would sometimes go beside the filling opening, causing the room to smell strongly of heating oil. The annoying smell disappeared only after attaching the air intake hose. It's not always possible to avoid a drop of heating oil during refueling. With this modification, I have now solved the problem. My goal was to find a legal alternative solution in case my oil central heating became irreparably damaged. However, I am now enthusiastic about the Vevor heater. It consumes less heating oil and simultaneously provides fresh air in the working room while heating. This is better than the traditional oil heater, which operates with convection, requiring regular ventilation but losing heat each time. I wish you all the best. I find your videos very entertaining. As a newcomer to the Vevor diesel heater, I initially had the impression that this heater is very unreliable and needs attention every two days. This perception arose because almost all TH-cam videos are about self-induced problems, with very few reports on how the heater functions when used correctly with clean fuel (diesel or heating oil). Due to its unbeatable price, I decided to test it myself and am so far very satisfied.
@@Aetek Good for you for taking action and preparing to repair your heater if needed. What is the alternative heat source ? What is everyone switching to ?
It is much better to recirculate your air from the heater, and pull in fresh air somewhere else, if necessary. Your house will not be sealed up well enough that getting fresh air is a problem. If you have a forced air oil furnace, it will have a fresh air intake where some fresh air will always come in.
It is currently -33C here today, but it is supposed to warm up over the next few days. Haha... yes, these heaters have been around for decades and used on vehicles. When run on diesel, they generally go thousands of hours without the need of any service. Parts are cheap and available, and they are very easy to repair when you do need to.
😆 I love the way you don't do Vevor commercials. ( Even though the stuff they sell is really cool.)
Haha... I'm not sure Vevor feels the same way about my methods of promotion... but they keep sending me stuff !
Don't change a method that works.@@loweredexpectations4927
This is a great experiment. The Solvable brand sells 'mineral spirits' which would be an interesting comparison. My guess is that the mineral spirits will burn the cleanest.
Thanks for the comment. I have been looking into this.
I have an Ice fishing tent, and in the past I have used it at -15c with some good winds, with only a 5000btu propane heater and it was able to keep it warm, the issue is condensation.
I have a feeling the diesel heater will have absolutely no issue keeping the tent warm, even on the lower settings.
I have been wanting to test this. I have a buddy that does some ice fishing and almost arranged a last minute trip out last week, but it didn't happen.
Really interesting. I find these alternative fuel videos not only really awesome, but I love that you tear them apart right after running them 🙂
Have you tried running seafoam in the heater, with diesel or waste oil, to see if it helps clean out any of the junk?
I have not tried seafoam YET.... I have tried a Redline and STP additive at one point... but only with waste oil.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Oh interesting. I know when I sprayed seafoam into the intake of a vehicle and ran it around maybe 2000 RPM I got ALL sorts of black smoke out the exhaust.
i heard about the heater looked aroud on yt for a review as im thinking of geting one for my home and foud 'lowered expectations' and i have seen all his vid s on it have to say very entertaining
Haha... THANKS ! I'm using my to heat my house right now... Doing an emergency test. I'm still alive 🤷♂️
Look for a Lavaner Pro. It’s a step up with better accessories and controller.
@@wallacegrommet9343 Yeah... they seem to be more similar to the Planar, but a little more reasonably priced. I don't know that the extra cost can be justified for the better quality components, unless you are installing on a vehicle. I currently had to upgrade the plug on BJ's 4Runner as it corroded away.
I saw the long exhuast pipe and my it reminded me of when i tried to max out the heat exchange using a long exhuast, like 12 feet vertical inside the garage, i figured it would still draft as it was vertical on the wall but man it got plugged after a very short time. It totally carbonized burn chamber and the whole pipe was so full of carbon i could have fillled a gallon jug. These machines need a short exhuast that stays oretty hot to prevent carbon build up
Haha... thanks for the heads up. I fully expect for this to happen.... My goal is to see how much is too much.
I am fairly certain that the heat of the exhaust isn't the limiting factor. What I assume is happening, is the exhaust is causing a restriction. This means less air coming in for the combustion process and so incomplete combustion.
If a person were to lower the heat setting, and put less demand on the flow, or lean out the fuel mixture, this could stop the soot. Ultimately, X flow is required for X kw, and the more restriction you add, the fewer kw you can produce without issues.
That Brakleen on your bench looks pretty ominous, and I hear it comes in larger, non-aerosol sizes!
Haha... I have considered this as well. Just have to make very sure you get the non-chlorinated stuff ...😵
Looking forward to the motor oil
I'm hoping that I can get it to work better than my tests from last year, but expecting failure. I have a few plans to modify the chamber to hopefully help prolong the time between cleanings.
I have experimented with a moped exhaust muffler and that made my heater quieter and mounting backwards makes it even more quiet
Interesting. The shape of something can have a drastic effect on sound. That's cool.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes I found that by accident because it fits better that way
Keep the shenanigan's com'n
This is an expectation I can live up to ! Thanks !!
Should try windshield washer fluids the more for cold the more methanol
I have thought of that... I have a video where I tried pure Methanol and it sort of worked. It doesn't make very much heat... I'm guessing you could increase the fuel rate and it would work ok... I may try that again with my drip feed system.
Thanks for the idea.
Keep up the good work
The implication here is that I am currently doing good work... I'm not sure I approve of such a dangerous idea, haha ! Thanks.
Yeah I love these type of videos cool you do some interesting stuff I started looking at your other videos you do some really cool things
Thanks ! I really enjoy messing around with stuff.
I have a package unit heatpump. I took the blower side door off and mounted it inside the unit piped it out and. Set it up so when its on the blower runs. Been using it about 2 months now. The temp was 15°f last week and with the 8k diesel the heat pump ran very little maybe 2-3 hrs total over 24hrs. Ordinarily it would run non stop and the heat strips would cycle to reach target temp with it that cold outside.
Woah ! Very cool. Does the heat pump consume quite a bit of power normally, when heating ?
@loweredexpectations4927 the 4 ton heatpump part no but i have 2 for a total of 6 tons. The 15kw and 5kw heat strips yes, because the units run non stop in temps under 25° and the heat strips cycle every hour. My typical winter power bill is north if 650$ weather depending. My house is 2650sf and I can get away with running the diesel heater on 4 and leave the upstairs HP offcompletely. And maintain 68° in the house.
@@DAMAGE-X- Right on, thanks... I don't know much about heat pump systems.
I thought the idea was that they both pulled heat from the earth in cool temps and put heat into it when it is hot. I do remember reading or hearing something about different styles.
The tent test sounds interesting. I imagine that the heater could be a little loud for sleeping. I'm Trying to figure out how I can make my heater super quiet
Many have battled with trying to make the heater quiet. There doesn't seem to be any one solution. It seems like just a small change at the air inlet or outlet (heating air ducts) can bale a huge difference. Putting a finger in front of the inlet can cut the sound in half, if you place it "right"
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes I kinda noticed that and were thinking of enclosing the burner in a box with maybe Rockwool or something like that maybe less sketchy because of glass fibres, but it must withstand heat..
Edit: maybe adding fan to reduce air resistance but that's challenging somewhere else due to different fan speeds of the heater. I'm going to try maybe with success :D
Cool test
Thanks !
Hey Joel,
Try DME, dimethyl either. Synthetic diesel you can burn in a spark ignition engine, I guess, that's what I read.
Might burn better than diesel, lower ash?
Is this something that is readily available ? I did a quick search and could find what it was, but only a few lab suppliers that have it. One place that had a price and it was $104 a liter.
Maybe like they did in the 1996 movie Down Periscope, try just thinning the mix by adding a little whiskey to the fuel.
Heard of it. Haven't seen it. I'm not sure whiskey will mix with diesel🤔
If you can get some, you might want to try exxsol D60/D80
I have no idea what that is, but I will look into it, haha.
If you want to get rid of 15ft of that fuel line, I'll take some off your hands😊. Just bought 40 liters of diesel and need a long line to run from the jerry cans to the heater. With this cold snap I'm gonna be running the heater a lot!
Haha! I'm not sure what quality it is... I jumped on aliexpress and think it was a few dollars for 10 metres. I will have a bunch left over, you are welcome to at some point, but I can't vouch for the quality if it, haha.
Today I'm running the heater in my truck for one test, and the heater attached to my house for another test. Lots of diesel being consumed.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I'll take it. If its bad quality and doesn't work, there will be two mushroom clouds over the city.💣💥
@@PUBHEAD1 Well... when it gets here, I will let you know.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Awesome. Keep that heater running, supposed to be in the minus 40s this week🥶
Dont know where to message you, but i have an idea of a video! Testing the Seafoam products to clean the chamber while the unit is running !! Should be interesting!
Thanks for the comment / idea... I have had a few people suggest this and it is on my list of things to do.
I am wondering if you mixed acetone with your oil burning setup if it would clean the chamber. Something for a future video
I have had a few people suggest this. I am considering trying this in the future 👍
I got A 8 kW diesel air. Have a Sucking air from outside. I was wondering if I put a return line on it. Would it be better?
Like more heat.
Do you mean you are suking combusion air or air for the heat exchanger ?
If you are sucking air in outside air for the heat exchanger, this will make a HUGE difference. If possible, you want to recirculate the heated air.
If you are referring to the combustion air, (the 1 inch / 25mm hose) this make a lot less of a difference.
Could you tap a thread for a car injector to go in to atomize waste engine oil use a seperate pump for the pressure, and use the pulse that would normally go to the dose pump to trigger the injector. Hopefully getting a cleaner burn or finer particles that would make it out of the heater?
It would be great if you could.... and technically you could do something like this... but it is much harder than it may first seem.
The biggest issue is the extremely small volume of fuel that these burn. On a larger heater this would be pretty easy to control, and this sort of how torpedo heaters work.
These heaters take 1000 pulses of the pump to burn 22ml of diesel. That is about two tablespoons. When you break it down, the level of precision that you would need to control flow would be pretty crazy ... This is precisely why they use what they call a "dosing" pump.
So while it could be done, it would mean running a high pressure pump, an very small and accurate injector with a much more sophisticated control system.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Thanks for taking the time to reply makes sense always wondered why they don't have injecton for super accurate burn. Love watching your channel!
@@Coffeebean1482 Last year I did work on a system that uses a SNA nozzle from a torpedo heater, but didn't get too far before spring came. Hope to try it again, but I don't think it will be user friendly.
@@loweredexpectations4927 looking forward to it I have lots of waste oil. I currently mix in waste veg oil but I can only add a very small amount per 20ltr tank about 1ltr to avoid plugging the heater up with soot
@@Coffeebean1482 Yeah... I have over 300L of oil to burn.... I need to get on that, haha.
I have tried 20% peanut oil and managed to burn about 3 gallons before plugging up the burn chamber with a nasty sticky mess. Now waiting on new burn chamber mesh from China... I know you have done a lot of burn chamber mods so hope you have better results....
I haven't tried it. Sounds like it works about as good as most other oils. The stuff that causes the problems is glycerin. To make biodiesel, you can use methanol and lye to remove the lye... a bit of a process, but then you have useable fuel.
Were you able to get your mesh out ? Some of them are spot welded in.
None of these petroleum-distillate solvents are precisely specified. If you did a lab analysis of Varsol (or similar) from batches in two different years, or from different source refineries, you'd probably find them to be different somewhat. Same is true for gasoline and diesel and kerosene, etc. Although fuel mixtures are likely more "tightly" specified.
Yeah... I can see how that makes sense. When you understand how these things are made (even on a superficial level) it's easy to understand that they aren't going to be exactly the same from batch to batch.
I'm sure they all have standards / thresholds for the fractions and then different mix of this and that.
Have you tried Coleman Fuel or Crown Camp Fuel? The stuff used in liquid fuel camp stoves and lanterns. In theory it should have the same burn characteristics as Unleaded Gasoline but lacks any of the additives.
I have looked into this and plan on trying it. I can't get the crown stuff, from what I can tell, but Coleman is sold here. It costs twice as much as in the US , but I can get it, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 In my area, I see Crown fuel at Walmart, usually next to the Coleman Fuel (and a couple bucks cheaper) or the small propane bottles in the camping isle.
The flash point would be very very very dangerous. Coleman gas is as flammable as gasoline -- both of which will turn that diesel heater into a flame thrower. Do not do this -- unless you need a flame thrower for the zombie apocalypse.
how about using white gas / coleman fuel - have you tried that
That is on my list of things to do... Thanks !
Hello - I have an old Eberspächer Hydronic D5WSC diesel heater - how would you set this up for the best result?
Hello ... I do not have any experience with these heaters.
I'm not sure what you mean by "set this up for best results"... I assume fuel ratio?
If it has adjustable air fuel ratio, your best option is to purchase a good CO meter and set the ratio so that it is running with as little CO as possible. I have been able to get my heater between 15 and 30 PPM.
@loweredexpectations4927 - thx for input - i was thinking more on how to utilize the waterheater - i was thinking of using an old radiator or maybe some other setup. It will be used to heat my small isolated shed which is about 4m x 6m and about 2,5 m to ceiling.
@@larsskytte Oh yes... any old car radiator will do the trick ! Preferably with a fan to circulate the heat.
Hi, tomorrow I will try to make a sand battery with the exhaust if you would like I can give you an update
Sure, that's cool. I am planning on doing this as well, for a future video... it's pretty cheap and easy for people to do, so why not ! That's great !
Saw I guy somewhere on TH-cam make a sand battery with a huge water tank for his house
@@aaronpeterson385 Yeah, I've seen a few of those videos. I suspect the sand battery for a heater won't be as efficient, but may have it's place. Sand batteries by nature, absorb energy a little slower than other mediums, like water, aluminum and copper .... but they also release the energy more slowly.
If you are using a san battery and hope to actually heat a space with the stored energy, you either need a huge battery with a large surface area, and or a really well insulated area. The "battery" part of the sand means they are good at storing energy and don't release it quickly... You need to trap / insulate well enough so that the release rate of the energy from your battery is about the same as the release rate of your insulation... Wow... that turned into a rant.
Hey there I am from Red Deer just down the road from you I was thinking about putting one of these heaters in my RZR and using it as heat have you tried a mobile version or is that what your wheelbarrow is for
I was wondering if they would flame out them on different angles and no tilt
Hey !
Not all burn chambers are the same. They all have a air hole to initiate the flame on start up, and the location of this is different. The reason this matters is fuel can come out of this with the heater at some angles.
WIth my old heater, I could tip it past 90º side to side with no issue at all, but tipping it up or down past 45 would be an issue (with the air outlet pointing up, or down.
They can be thrashed around without issue, but some angles can be problematic. Some chambers will have the air hole in one side and that means you can only tip one way about 45, and the other 90.
Hope this helps.
PS... I know all of this from actual testing and not just guessing or what I read online, haha.
Did you try just 80 diesel to 20 oil. Just to use up oil laying around
It would be better then throwing it away.
I tried 70/30 and had issues pretty quickly. You may get away with a few percent as the unburnt stuff may get carried away with the exhaust, but I have tried lots of different mixtures and haven't had any luck.
i got this idea for you, i have been following your channel. i work with nuts and oils for food and i drive my car on WVO. Vevor sell a Oil press for foodoils. For views, content and promotion you could do a review of the Oil press i have been trying to find effenciy numbers for the oil extraction cause my Beechnuts are very expensive. but you can make oil from cheap or free acorns etc. burn it or use it for wood treatment. just a tip! :)
Hmmmmm that's a very interesting idea ! Things are a little uncertain for me at the moment, but perhaps when this settle. I like it.
the product is also interesting for homesteading or preppers. A old diesel generator will run 4 ever on acorn oil surival tip 4 when the zombies arrive@@loweredexpectations4927
Great chamnel
Why, thank you !
What would be the cheapest fuel that can work with the heater?
That depends a LOT on where you live. Where I am, in Calgary Alberta Canada, Diesel is currently $1.48 / litre and is the cheapest I can reasonably get.
IF I had money to invest, I could buy a large storage tank, and take delivery of marked diesel / red diesel. This does not have road taxes so it is cheaper, but you generally can't just buy 100L of it. There is usually either a minimum order or a large delivery fee.
I believe heating oil is the exact same stuff as marked diesel, and is more readily available on the East Coast of Canada but still has a minimum order.
I have been told, in some places, Kerosene is less than diesel, but where I am it is between 2x and 4x the cost of road diesel.
A few people have told me that where they are, cottonseed oil is very cheap and that they have been burning it, but I have not tried, and it is crazy expensive here.
Many people have claimed that you can burn all sorts of waste petroleum oils, but from my testing, this is not true and you will have issues in just a few days, maximum.
Others have said that you can burn all sorts of vegetable oils, but I have seen many videos and recieved many comments on disaster when trying to run this for more than a few days.
You can use methanol and lye to convert veg oil into biodiesel, and this will apparently work fine, but I have not done it, and it takes a bit of work.
I have run my diesel heater on biodiesel and I have run it on only biodiesel i mix it a 10 % methanol and 7 % lye and I have run it on just wvo for up to 15 hour on setting 4.7 on my unit
Cool. Do you wash your biodiesel or just drain off the glycerin ? I would like to do this some day but feel like it's a lot of work unless you're doing it on a fairly large scale.
just drain the glycerine and run it
How about 50/50 diesel and used cooking oil?
Yes, that is one of the things that I would like to try. Thanks.
Varsol is refined one more step to reduce odor
Compared to Diesel or Paint thinner ?
Its properties are closer to paint thinner than diesel.
You should build an oven using the exhaust, seal off the "exhaust/heat" chamber to not ruin the food. I will eat food out of it.
I have received my 16' of exhaust... so I may be able to make this happen.
Supposedly, the exhaust heat is about 800 watts... I just Googled it most ovens are between 1000 and 2400 W... so a small oven at 800W should work, haha.
I could use the oven in my shop, and just use the exhaust to heat it... maybe.
You should try cotton seed oil….works on my heater
Interesting. Is this cheaper than diesel where you are, or do you have unusual access to a supply of it?
@@loweredexpectations4927 yes it’s a lot cheaper to get. Some of the old cotton mills still keep bunch of barrels stored there.
@@markhunt6573 Very interesting. Where I am, canola oil is a big thing, but the price of it is still very high. I don't think that anything is cheap here... but our fuel might be cheap compared to others. I just got gasoline $1.20/ litre and diesel $1.48/ litre.
The only want to get cheap oil here is used stuff.
@@loweredexpectations4927 gas is $2.39 gallon and diesel is $3.01 gallon
binged a bunch of your vids and superscribe have you thought about trying to use paraffin lamp oil? ive a few lamps around the house and think it be interesting
Thanks for the support and for the suggestion / comment !
I have looked into paraffin before and it is pretty expensive where I am. I'm looking for a more reasonable source as what I can find now is $50+ per gallon. It would be interesting !
Lamp oil is essentially ultra refined kerosene
@@Mastermindyoung14 Yes, it can be, but, at least where I am, it is of often liquid paraffin as well.
Whiskey, rum, vodka, everclear….. LoL
Haha ! I knew this was coming sooner or later. I have tried burning Methanol and even with pure alcohol, these heaters are just barely able to keep running. The heat output is VERY low.
The SDS says 100% Stoddard solvent. It’s a petroleum distillate.
That's what Varsol is ? Is that the same as mineral spirits ?
5 x 5
Does this mean 5 out of 5 stars ? ... or am I missing a deeper message ?
Varsol (according to MSDS) contains toluene, which doesn't burn cleanly, even producing small amounts of benzene in the process, which is double-plus un-good for you. I'm surprised you don't have more smoke, though.
Thanks for the heads up... I was planning on burning Toluene... Maybe I will pass on that one. I have been checking into how dangerous stuff is before I burn it... for any real "no nos"
Yeah... there was no smoke at all, once it was fully warmed up.
I recall burning straight toluene on cattails when I was a kid--making burning torches for fun. It smelled nasty while burning, and produced copious amounts of stringy black soot. But, burning in a forced-air combustor is a different story. Even diesel produces some benzene in the combustion products, so I don't know how much more toluene produces. I do remember it smelling awful.
@@patchvonbraun I guess I should look into it further.
@@patchvonbraun "I recall burning straight toluene on cattails when I was a kid". Seems like something I would do. What is toluene used for... why did you have access to it ?
It's a pretty-generic industrial solvent, mostly used as a lacquer thinner, dissolves polystyrene--so often used in model-making styrene cements. Usually a component in both PVC and ABS cements for plumbing. My dad was a chemist, and there was usually a good stock of solvents around that I could pilfer some of for my own experiments. Some of those experiments were officially sanctioned by dad, others, perhaps not so much :)
Sea from I would like to see what happens with straight sea from
I have been looking into this . I would love to. it is about $104 for a gallon. I could burn less, but I'd like to keep all of the tests the same.
how did you manage to put a harness on your cat, mine is resistant and it's mission impossible
HAHA... he doesn't always just let it happen... but I've gotten pretty good at it... We had to try 2-3 different harnesses before we found one that works.
This one is all one string with a plastic piece that makes it cross on his back. You open the loop for his head (very large), put it on and cinch it up as you do this you are left with a clasp at the plastic piece and one that has to go around his belly.
His mom isn't nearly as good at this and she often fails and has to give up. Once he's angry, you have to stop, haha.
make some black diesel and test that, 25% diesel mixed with 75% used oil.
I have tried that in a series of videos I did starting last december. I have over 30 videos dedicated to trying to burn waste engine oil.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have a home built waste oil burner that heats my shop, but I was looking at these to experiment with burning waste oil, looks like they would need some modifications to burn the oil with out issue, I am sure it can be done, a little bit of trial and error to figure it out. here is a short that shows the flame I have, its almost over kill for my 1100 sqaure foot shop. th-cam.com/users/shortsEZ686iHP5jU?si=CQWFF0Xfcg_20GeL
Burn some Moonshine or any flammable booze.
You are like the 6-7th person to recommend some sort of alcoholic beverage, haha.
I would like to see new and old automatic transmission fluid
I have some set aside and will be doing this test, if everything goes to plan. I will likely start by diluting it with diesel at first, as I have read accounts that it causes a lot of build up.
It doesn’t work very well I tried.
@@johnr8996 Thanks...Was this the fist "alternative" fuel that you tried ? Wondering if you started with a clean camber. I only ask because I did a lot of tests that viewers suggested, and was never 100% sure if my results were tarnished from not starting with a new chamber.
I fully expect it to be the same as waste motor oil. Still going to give it a go though.
All the paint solvents are 3 times the cost of diesel. No point. Only if you really need too thats for sure.
Yes, the point if this isn't to find a practical /cost effective alternative to diesel. It was to see what would happen.
Search varsol vs paint thinner.
Okay... now what ? Haha. I'm not sure where you are going with this? There are a lot of things loosely labeled as "paint thinner", so my results are all over the places.
Born RC nitro methane and potassium nitrate mixed together who knows what will happen!
You hit the nail on the head with one of my costly "to-do" list items.... I've been wanting to do this for almost a year how, haha.... not with potassium nitrate though, haha.
You should run it on WD40!
Yes, this is the $50/gallon item I really want to try ! Thanks for the comment !
@@loweredexpectations4927 As a kid I used to spray it in the carburetor of my pit bike when it didn’t want to start. I bet you can start a heater with it as well 🙂
@@familiekruit6068 Haha... We've all been there. I tend to use brake and parts cleaner or either, but have used wd40 ...
THIS SECTION RESERVED FOR TELLING JOEL ABOUT HOW HE LOWERED YOUR EXPECTATIONS. 😁
Now go back and make sure your hit that 👍👍
"You smell that?"
"Yep... Smells a little like cancer. You reckon we oughta leave the room?"
"Nah, I don't know about you but the purple giraffe reminds me of the number Saturn 🪐... Trippy."
(Imaginary conversations I could see happening)
"....cuts the Hertz in half."
"I don't think it hurts much at all."
Lets get things started. My expectations were so low that I find myself looking up to politicians !!
Team mascot Tilly !
@@loweredexpectations4927 my expectations are so low... I keep a watchful eye out for falling whale turds... And not so swimmy politicians. Lol .. ooh... I think I just found Jimmy Hoffa.... I mean some totally random person wearing a very stylish pair of concrete waterproof boots... Yeah, that's what I meant to say.
[Random algorithm appeasing comment]
Have you tried running it on barbeque lighter fluid yet?
I really want to do that as well.... I've been trying to figure out the most cost effective way to get a gallon. I know I don't NEED a gallon, but I want to try to keep all the tests close to the same, so that the comparisons are fair.
Algorithm gods have been appeased.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I have got ONE other suggestion to try, but it's not fuel related.
I've seen a few videos where people have run the exhaust through heat exchangers, and one where they used an old cast iron domestic steam radiator......... But what about one of the cheep modern pressed steel radiators? I'm thinking it would need a couple of large tubes welding into it for the exhaust to fit snugly into, and as the radiator would be inside (With the original exhaust connecting to it's outlet and threaded outdoors) it would also need the joints sealing pretty well, but I reckon once all the paint stopped burning off, the thing would be recovering a ridicules amount of heat........... But would the increased back pressure cause burn problems, Would it resonate like crazy, and would the radiator survive long at those sort of temperatures?
Glad you plan to freeze ur buttox off for our sake, I can't stand the cold either, UGH.
Haha... Currently freezing my butt off... House temp is 12.5C and I had some battery issues... so the heater shut down twice... Oops.
what i the lowest setting on your heather ,mijn is 09
I'm not sure what you mean.... What is the lowest setting ? The lowest setting is 01 and the highest setting is 06. On this heater pushing the left button increases heat and the right lowers heat.
On my other heaters they range from 1 to 10.
What I mean is, the lowest setting before it starts to malfunction,.the burning 🔥.
I have been running myn for years on my possible lowest, which Is 9 pulsing of the pump.
Once or twice a year I clean the burner by blowing it out with a compressor.
@@rudikessels9492 Ok. I understand a little more, but not fully.
By "9 pulsing of the pump" do you mean 9hz ? 9 pulses per second ?
If you have to clean it out that often, it means you are getting too much fuel, or not enough air.
Are you able to post a video showing what you mean ?
ok, not enough air ratio . i understand ,
do you have a video about that how to change air feul ratio.
thank you for responding by the way.@@loweredexpectations4927
@@rudikessels9492 I do not have a video specifically about this. I suggest watching David McLuckiee's video called Diesel heater tuning - using cheap CO gauge. There are others as well like Adjusting your Chinese Diesel parking heater for High altitude elevation or sea level use. I will try to post the links in a separate comment.
I wonder how this would run on unused ATF an d hydraulic fluid
The two mixed together, or one and then the other ? I have some used ATF I plan on testing ... I may have a gallon of hydraulic fluid of some sort... Kubota tractor stuff.
Mine is currently running on a mix of used ulv transmission fluid diesel and a splash of gas, it’s been on non stop for 2 days no issues so far, I’d be curious how it would run on straight atf
@@isaacfast1057 I hope you don't' have issues, but from what I've heard from others, your issues will start to appear in another day or two. I haven't tried this myself, so I don't know if the issue is carbon, or some other build up.
If you are using this as your main heat source / depending on this heater, it would be a good idea to have a spare burn chamber or to at least switch to diesel for a few hours. From experience, my heater would run ok on waste oil, then I'd shut it down and out wouldn't restart, or restart but work poorly and make a lot of smoke.
Burn breakfluid
Will brake fluid burn ? ...🤔
tldr, What will happen is you'll go bankrupt.
Well, I'm going through a separation currently and I'm likely not going to be able to afford the buyout on my house... If this is the case, I ma be homeless for a while or perhaps I'll rent some wearhouse space and live there.
@@loweredexpectations4927well, if you'd like to head south... C'mon down... I'm about in the middle of America... If you don't have passport, just walk across... I hear no one cares nowadays anyway.
Hello : )
Took me a second to understand 🤣 Thanks !
You're going to have you shouldn't be exhausting that out the window right there they got a window right there why aren't you exhaust and get out the window so you don't have to smell it that's why it has exhaust
Thanks for your concern, Andy. Yes, these should be vented outside.
The idea of these tests is to try to get an accurate comparisons between different chemicals. If I vent the exhaust, I would not be able to collect this data.
From this test, we can clearly see that Varsol is much worse than diesel and paint thinner, but we wouldn't know this if the gasses were all vented outside.
I monitor the fumes and limit my exposure by not spending much time in the garage. While the gasses by the exhaust are very bad, the gasses diffuse over distance and are not bad only a few feet away. I worked for many years as a mechanic and know that many people spend their entire day in much worse.
Varsol is actually kerosene lol just under the varsol name
I has a strong suspicion that this was the case, but the "internet" says that kerosene has a lower flash point ... I haven't had much experience with kerosene, but the Varsol didn't want to burn as well as paint thinner or diesel.🤷♂️
@@loweredexpectations4927 that stuff could of been on the shelf for years they rotate it new with old you don't know what your getting half the time
@@petedebo6906 That's true... big box stores sometimes have stuff for 8 or 10 years, haha.
16 feet i'm in 😂
I wanna say have you ever took your H2S but I'm dumb
I'm curious to see if the heater will run with all 16 feet on there.
LOL.... um... H2S... I'll just head to my local welding shop and ask for a few tanks full 🤣 I'm sure they won't look at me funny.
I was going to say "Air Liquide" ... but unless your Canadian, I don't know if that's a thing.
Run it outside then run it inside with the exhaust and I bet it runs better vented outside ???
@@Joe-hj6pg That would make sense.
q:; can you watch tv with the heater on in the same room norn vol? if i get one it carnt go outside some crack head will nick it
I’m watching TV now with mine going. It’s about 15 feet away. On lvl 6 have to turn the volume up, lvl 1 you can hear it but it’s not bad.
Aaron has more experience with this than I do, so I would listen to him. Personally I think it has a lot to do with how you vent the air. I have noticed sometimes it's really loud, and simply changing the shape of the inlet by placing a finger in front of it makes a huge difference.
I suspect that this wouldn't be an issue if you are willing to mess with it a little...
Thanks for replying... I appreciate it !
Try WD40. Don’t care f you do or not. Just adding a comment to help you out.
That's the $50/ gallon item on my "to-do" list, haha ! Gotta make that happen !!!
@@loweredexpectations4927 shouldn’t have to buy a gallon to test. But yes it does cost around $50
@@aaronpeterson385 I could do a quick test and see if it burns, but I am fairly certain it will ... I'd really like to run a gallon through and see what deposits are left behind.... that was I stay consistent with my other tests.
@@loweredexpectations4927 there is that!
Dude burn wast fat and a touch of solvent. You know dilute bacon fat with paint thinner
That sounds interesting. I'm not sure that I have enough for multiple tests... but I suppose that could be my one test.
Ethyl Benzene, Napthalene, Nonane, Trimethyl Benzene. None of that stuff is healthy.
MSDS for Varsol.
Yeah... It's pretty nasty. I'm sort of shocked that it didn't make more nasty VOCs even after it was warmed up.
As interesting as this is it's not giving people cheaper solutions for heating get back to solving the burning waist oil problem and when you figure it out your views will be in the millions 🤑
Haha... yes.... I would love to solve this problem... especially as it is currently -31C and the temp is dropping for the next few days.... and fuel isn't cheap.
I have a few burn chambers on order and have some stuff planned... I am going to try to make / test a extended use / less maintenance option.... and probably try a diesel / oil mix at lower oil ratios.
I have been strongly considering building a full custom waste oil burner using only the control system from a diesel heater. I have a few ideas but have been very busy with other things.
@@loweredexpectations4927 last year we played with the % of mixing them for a few weeks until it got cold not -30c but cold enough that it needed to work reliability.
I've got a idea instead of running a mix first change the settings to run as lean as possible and then figure out a way to add oil in front/after the diesel combustion chamber possibly just dripping it in a few mm in front of the washer onto something that's getting red hot from the diesel burning.
By running it lean I'm hoping there's going to be enough oxygen left for the oil to burn clean it might need extra air. The main point in what I'm thinking is the diesel side won't get blocked up and the oil side could be designed to make cleaning simple and quick
@@colinhamer6506 Yes, the idea of injecting waste oil just after the baffle has been on my mind for quite some time... I had a few discussions with viewers about this last winter and have considered a few possible problems, but it should extend use.
I always struggle with the implementation of this as there are a lot of unanswered questions. In my idea, the heater starts and runs on min with clean diesel. A second control system will then inject fuel in at a higher rate and take over control of the fan.
I'm not sure if the "take over the fan" can be done with a diode, so that the first ECU doesn't pick up a fault, or if it would still fault... This could require some "fancy" electronics, and really don't want to get into that. It may very well be that the primary system can be shut down totally, but this is not part of my plan.
Second problem is that you need extra air to burn the waste oil, but will this cause issues with the primary diesel burn or cause it to flame out ? I know that they run very cool if you put too much air, so 4000 rpm and 1hz will likely cause a flame out, but the waste oil will need that extra air.
For this reason, I am designing (in CAD) and burn chamber that only allows a small amount of air flow into the primary (original) burn area, and delivers the majority of air to the area just outside of the baffled area.
This is just one of my ideas... I have several other ideas and came up with a new one last evening that I think is really cool... even if it doesn't work, haha. I think the "real" trick here is to have the waste oil burn in a space where it is easily cleaned, as it is certain to get dirty.
I have been spending a lot of time thinking about ways to incorporate the control system, (ECU, pump fans) into a burner made from a 20lb propane cylinder, or something like that.
@@loweredexpectations4927 sounds like you have a very similar idea in mind as I have.
I've built a few big waste oil heaters the last one had a 🛢 on it's side on top of a gas bottle and when it was tuned in it got cherry red using around 3 litres a hour and no smoke at all. The problem I had was using a gravity drip feed the changes in viscosity of the oil as the temperature changed etc it needed a eye on it all the time a few years later I found a wibasto heater and got the idea of using the same sort of tec to make using waist oil safe. The burn chamber you are designed sounds good just make sure the air that goes to the oil is hot
@@colinhamer6506 I am, for now at least, trying to make it so the average person can perform the modifications... but that may go out the window.
How about trying to use the hot air from the diesel heater to inflate a tent, or one of those inflatable fancy dress outfits. Could you make it burn solid fuel? Moonshine, potato vodka.
I like this .... "but what's a fancy dress outfit" ?
I have been considering firing it up on diesel with some hardwood inside of the burn tube... then trying to see if I can keep it going till it consumes it all... I like this. I had also considered Doritos ... I think you'd have to refill often.How about sugar...
Some real good moonshine might work, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 guess you would call it a costume. Google "inflatable costume". You would have to do your own risk assessment 😄