I've been putting my heater inside and pipping the exhaust outside. Haven't had any issue and also never saw double digit CO level. Based on your review, it seems like even if there was an exhaust leak, you wouldn't really get that high of CO anyway (just smoke and smell).
Thank you for an outstanding video. CO is very dangerous, about 6 yrs ago a camper in the UK picked up a stone cold disponible BBQ and put it inside the flap of the tent. His wife died and he came very close to death.
I gave your comment a like and run my diesel heater on k1 (I have spare pumps but no problems) and no exhaust smoke or fumes...safer and cleaner than diesel and the price is low for me. A CO meter like HVAC people use is common sense protection plus it can be used for propane etc. . The home meters measure over time usually and do not go down to 0ppm. These heaters set up correctly will run safely for years. Sounds like you know all this. Have a good one.
Depends on how the wind blows. Smell sensitivity to diesel exhaust is really high to people. If that was the first time using it, yes you do get the plastic new "car" smell. I'm using dryer vent hose since it's made with high heat in mind. The smell does go away.
Interesting. Thanks for the video. Maybe it’s fine to get one of those anyhow, I have been questioning it a bit. Anyhow, just for extra safety.. put a hose on the intake and take the air further away. Understandable you don’t want the hot exhaust danging around. But you got option to get the air from farther away instead. Cheers.
@2Awolf I admire your transparency. To find out with your audience whether or not you’ve made a good or bad decision, for the sake of teaching others, is highly noble of you. Thank you for sharing this life-saving information with us all. The Lord bless you, Sir!
I would route the exhaust out the other side of the heater so there was no chance of it getting sucked into the fan and entering the camper. Your heater is obviously tuned correctly for your elevation but if you use it at high elevation it'll burn rich and CO will increase. Also any restriction to combustion air intake or exhaust will increase CO. Could be something as simple as a spider building a web in the intake tube.
There's a small rubber gasket on those heaters where the fuel delivery pipe goes in. It's often not sealed well, and silisone sealant can cure it. That's the route for exhaust gases to get in, because some get sucked in the burner intake, and then escape into the interior through that hole..
This is the one topic nobody ever talked about. these things are very popular, their original use was the heater for Semi truck sleepers, to keep warm without running the big diesel engine all night. They've been and still are a VERY common item in sleeper semi's... and ya NEVER hear of problems. (Wobasto is the original that all the cheap chinese ones have copied. I knew they were clean & safe, but i was very surprised to see the exhaust itself was also very clean... granted, oxygen did drop... but many enclosures have fresh air sources or just plain leak. I know a guy who used/uses one of these things to heat his garage.... it runs pretty much 18hours a day.... he foolishly never even ran the exhaust outside.... But even after years of use, & him in there every day for long periods of time... it never seemed to cause any issues for him or anyone who hung out in there.... I still think running the exhaust outside would've been preferred... but he wasn't allowed to drill any holes in his garage.... I guess this is why he's still alive lol.... Great video... BTW, since yours is mounted to your camper, the fuel pump ticking is likely amplified on the camper wall... there are some new cheap heaters that are significantly quieter than yours. I have an old Vevor that was loud like yours... I just got a Silvel & it's Significantly quieter...
Great info video. I tried my diesel heater first time at high altitude and my wife and daughter were coughing due to smell. The diesel heater was 10ft away from tent on the ground. I think what they were smelling was melted plastic from the tube leading from the heater into the tent. Can you confirm? What type if tubing do you use and the smell normal (plastic smell)? Thx
Agree on CO monitor. Get a HVAC type that does propane etc so you can get instant results and down to zero. My brother was a Diesel mechanic and was found stopped at a traffic red light by a policeman who thought my brother was drunk or on drugs. The policeman figured out things because of my brothers mechanic uniform and brought him to the ER. My brother was in the real life risking danger zone. They have big exhaust hoses etc at the top notch truck business my brother worked at but just the cumulation of CO of my brother working around the diesel rigs slowly got him into trouble.
I always keep a window opened a bit whether I am in a vehicle or indoors. I like fresh air ..I have breathed enough crap from working around vehicles, fuels, heaters, welding etc . I have probably shortened my life somewhat from running my chainsaws too.
Not really sure. However, if the heat exchanger has a leaking o-ring or seal, all exhaust would not go out the exhaust. This would allow the exhaust fumes to mix with the flowing warm air. Having it twice is rare, but not impossible. 200ppm is too high to continue using it.
I got one of these for a workshop and measured 200ppm at the warm air outlet. I figured it was faulty and bought another, same deal. Exhaust is routed outside and air intake further away. I even used heat resistant silicon on the exhaust flange to ensure no external cross contamination. Any ideas what the problem could be? It's a vevor, same thing..
If you want to stay safe you will also buy a CO detector for your rig. Anytime you are using a combustible fuel for heating you are at risk of CO poisoning. A faulty heat exchanger can also cause CO to enter your heating space. You can have the best exhaust system in the world and still die because of a faulty heat exchanger or an air intake drawing in exhaust. The proximity of the cold air for heating intake and the exhaust makes these types of heaters extremely dangerous if you don't take the necessary precautions. CO detectors are cheap life insurance.
Seems like the smart move would be to follow the manufactures instructions. 1 locate the heater inside the camper. 2 Exhaust vented outside the camper. How valid is your test inside the closed garage with the door to the camper open to the room where the exhaust is being discharged? Walt
Thanks Walt. Since the MSA Altair 5 works immediately, the exhaust outside could not have gotten inside that fast and with positive pressure from the heat being pumped into the sleeping area, it would be very difficult to get the CO to enter.
There's a small rubber gasket on those heaters where the fuel delivery pipe goes in. It's often not sealed well, and silisone sealant can cure it. That's the route for exhaust gases to get in, because some get sucked in the burner intake, and then escape into the interior through that hole..
Use k1 if the price is right and the heater will not soot up. If your k1 kerosene does not have enough lubricity for pump you can ad a 10% mix of diesel. I run straight k1 with no pump failure but I also have spare pumps just in case. Seriously, who knows what is in each batch of fuel out of the fuel pumps...my k1 might easily be something else lol.
@@kevingeaney7741 Good point. That is correct!! Earlier I had a failure due to low spot in the hose I had on the ground. It got filled with condensation.
Also you want all the soot etc to blow out and down the exhaust. The exhaust should ideally at least slope continually down. You can tell when folks have not read the operation manuals when they have the exhaust bent up or kinked. The more you can keep all hoses etc straight...the better. Block the heater legs up so you do not need to bend hoses so much and it is much easier to work on. I foresee problems because these were originally used in semi trucks and were not all in one units. Ideally the fuel tank should be lowest below intake on unit and then the fuel line(nylon 2m and not the green Chinese line) slope up to a filter (that is installed with the flow in the correct direction) and then to the pump (that should be tilted up towards inlet at least 15 degrees, more degrees up to 90 is best). The pump produces air bubbles that can get trapped in pump or line (especially the larger surface area green line). With everything installed correctly, air bubbles flow through pump and into heater (you can watch the little bubbles move). There are a lot of small technical details that are often overlooked and the units run fine but the heaters run a lot longer and safer when installed correctly. Put heavy gauge wiring to fuse etc so glow plug gets good juice. Enough...I can ramble on lol. Get a CO HVAC meter good for propane and a bunch of everything and be safe!
Hi, Thanks for sharing. Once thing to think about is that, while the heater is not creating much CO, it still is creating CO2, and reducing oxygen, so you still might want to install an exhaust extension to remove the possibility of it picking up CO2, which, in large concentrations can also be harmful. Not as worrisome as CO, but still not great if, especially it replaces the oxygen. That's the issue Apollo 13 had.... The other thing to consider would be to bring the air from the area you are warming to the heater body inlet from inside your conditioned space. It would reduce the heating requirements as the air being heated would not be as cold once the cab starts to heat up. Let me be clear -- I am NOT talking about using air from the conditioned space as the source for your combustion air. Let the combustion air be drawn from outside as it is now, hopefully with some kind of mesh filter on it to keep mud daubers from building nests in there. Of course, if your intent is to provide fresh air in addition to the heat by using outside air for your conditioned air space, you would want to leave it the way it is, even though it would use more diesel. I am going to install one of these in a boat I am restoring, but will always have a CO monitor on when using it. Especially when sleeping. If the aluminum combustion chamber cracks, you could get CO that way, and if sleeping, that could be deadly. It's the same reason it's always a good idea to have a CO monitor in a house that has a furnace or water heater that uses combustion to produce heat. If you have electric heat r (hopefully like a heat pump )and electric water heater, you don't need to worry about this unless your auxiliary/backup/emergency heat is a gas or oil furnace. Cheers from Oregon, Philip
Ive come where there is a leak between the combustion chamber and the heat exchanger. Its a simple fix certainty one you shpild test. Also the exhort has to be taken far enough away from the air intake or ventilation
Your smelling diesel on the warm up due to incomplete combustion, someone cut the end off one and filmed it, early on its a very poor yellow flame but once up to temp, it burns with a blue gas like flame.
I am very wary of carbon monoxide output on these heaters , you clearly havent tuned your diesel heater properly and you should not have any carbon monoxide emissions from your diesel heater, check the seal on the top of the glow plug as sometimes it doesnt seal properly and alows carbon monoxide to escape from the burn chamber into the hot air stream. from the glow plug breathe hole, yes the tiny little breathe hole, you wouldnt believe it was true. next you need to get into the special settings menu on the blue lcd screen enter either 1866 or 9009 on the four dashes accessed by pressing the top left button on the lcd screen to enter the menu and adjust the heater at the lowest top fan setting and Hz setting that allows the two red bars to show on the display, adjustments to the top fan speed, you can turn the heater down with the lcd remote in the mnual setting using the remote to see what the lowest setting is that allows the two red bars to light up on the lcd screen.. this will allow it to burn very lean using only 1 to 2 litres of diesel in a 12 hour period. we run ours all night in a caravan at 1.7 hz we have carbon monoxide alarms set up to activate if it is being produced at all. our top fan speed is 4500 and our top temperasture setting is 5.1 Hz (or pump speed if you will) this may differ on yours. we first took delivery of the same unit as yours it was producing 33 parts per million of carbon monoxide, now it is tuned through the special settings it produces zero carbon monoxide emissions, its no good telling you my settings as every diesel heater has a slightly different combustion output even though they all appear to be the same design. try turning the rubber mount for the pump upside down so that the pump rests on the rubber mount rather than hanging from it ours is a little quieter now.
You think the external exhaust was coming into the back door? Remember, the back area is positive pressure ventilation. It would be difficult but possible. Thanks
It doesn't produce CO if it has absolutely perfect combustion (You live on a planet with 100% oxygen atmosphere). Even a well tuned heater will produce CO because we live in an imperfect world.
@@2awolf817 We serve railroad workers sickened by diesel exhaust and other railroad carcinogens. Railroad workers are often exposed to other toxins such as asbestos, solvents, fuels, welding fumes, silica, and creosote. Our experienced railroad cancer lawyers take all those exposures into account when consulting with experts and determining whether your illness is work-related. from the website. not just diesel
100% it does. His heater is newer and in good working condition, wait till the burner cokes up a bit. Why chance it, just put the rubber hose on and vent it farther away.
I've been putting my heater inside and pipping the exhaust outside. Haven't had any issue and also never saw double digit CO level. Based on your review, it seems like even if there was an exhaust leak, you wouldn't really get that high of CO anyway (just smoke and smell).
Thank you for an outstanding video. CO is very dangerous, about 6 yrs ago a camper in the UK picked up a stone cold disponible BBQ and put it inside the flap of the tent. His wife died and he came very close to death.
wow. yep this stuff happens all the time. Terrible..
Ive been running these heaters full-time for 8+ years..... Zero issues or problems........ Alot safer than propane.... A must have.😎👍👍
I gave your comment a like and run my diesel heater on k1 (I have spare pumps but no problems) and no exhaust smoke or fumes...safer and cleaner than diesel and the price is low for me. A CO meter like HVAC people use is common sense protection plus it can be used for propane etc. . The home meters measure over time usually and do not go down to 0ppm.
These heaters set up correctly will run safely for years. Sounds like you know all this. Have a good one.
Depends on how the wind blows. Smell sensitivity to diesel exhaust is really high to people. If that was the first time using it, yes you do get the plastic new "car" smell. I'm using dryer vent hose since it's made with high heat in mind. The smell does go away.
Interesting. Thanks for the video. Maybe it’s fine to get one of those anyhow, I have been questioning it a bit. Anyhow, just for extra safety.. put a hose on the intake and take the air further away. Understandable you don’t want the hot exhaust danging around. But you got option to get the air from farther away instead. Cheers.
I still haven't had any major problems. Love it. Thanks for the note.
@2Awolf I admire your transparency. To find out with your audience whether or not you’ve made a good or bad decision, for the sake of teaching others, is highly noble of you. Thank you for sharing this life-saving information with us all. The Lord bless you, Sir!
Thank you.
@@2awolf817 Would you have a personal recommendation on a reliable gas/co meter under $100? I trust your judgement.
I would route the exhaust out the other side of the heater so there was no chance of it getting sucked into the fan and entering the camper. Your heater is obviously tuned correctly for your elevation but if you use it at high elevation it'll burn rich and CO will increase. Also any restriction to combustion air intake or exhaust will increase CO. Could be something as simple as a spider building a web in the intake tube.
There's a small rubber gasket on those heaters where the fuel delivery pipe goes in. It's often not sealed well, and silisone sealant can cure it. That's the route for exhaust gases to get in, because some get sucked in the burner intake, and then escape into the interior through that hole..
This is the one topic nobody ever talked about. these things are very popular, their original use was the heater for Semi truck sleepers, to keep warm without running the big diesel engine all night. They've been and still are a VERY common item in sleeper semi's... and ya NEVER hear of problems. (Wobasto is the original that all the cheap chinese ones have copied. I knew they were clean & safe, but i was very surprised to see the exhaust itself was also very clean... granted, oxygen did drop... but many enclosures have fresh air sources or just plain leak. I know a guy who used/uses one of these things to heat his garage.... it runs pretty much 18hours a day.... he foolishly never even ran the exhaust outside.... But even after years of use, & him in there every day for long periods of time... it never seemed to cause any issues for him or anyone who hung out in there.... I still think running the exhaust outside would've been preferred... but he wasn't allowed to drill any holes in his garage.... I guess this is why he's still alive lol.... Great video... BTW, since yours is mounted to your camper, the fuel pump ticking is likely amplified on the camper wall... there are some new cheap heaters that are significantly quieter than yours. I have an old Vevor that was loud like yours... I just got a Silvel & it's Significantly quieter...
Good note. Thank you.
Good video,just installed one in my garage,and bought a house carbon monoxide alarm and it's always at the back of your mind, cheers Ian 🇬🇧
Thank you Ian
Great info video. I tried my diesel heater first time at high altitude and my wife and daughter were coughing due to smell. The diesel heater was 10ft away from tent on the ground. I think what they were smelling was melted plastic from the tube leading from the heater into the tent. Can you confirm? What type if tubing do you use and the smell normal (plastic smell)? Thx
Good point. We also crack the vent open a little.
Agree on CO monitor. Get a HVAC type that does propane etc so you can get instant results and down to zero. My brother was a Diesel mechanic and was found stopped at a traffic red light by a policeman who thought my brother was drunk or on drugs. The policeman figured out things because of my brothers mechanic uniform and brought him to the ER. My brother was in the real life risking danger zone. They have big exhaust hoses etc at the top notch truck business my brother worked at but just the cumulation of CO of my brother working around the diesel rigs slowly got him into trouble.
I always keep a window opened a bit whether I am in a vehicle or indoors. I like fresh air ..I have breathed enough crap from working around vehicles, fuels, heaters, welding etc . I have probably shortened my life somewhat from running my chainsaws too.
Not really sure. However, if the heat exchanger has a leaking o-ring or seal, all exhaust would not go out the exhaust. This would allow the exhaust fumes to mix with the flowing warm air. Having it twice is rare, but not impossible. 200ppm is too high to continue using it.
I got one of these for a workshop and measured 200ppm at the warm air outlet. I figured it was faulty and bought another, same deal.
Exhaust is routed outside and air intake further away. I even used heat resistant silicon on the exhaust flange to ensure no external cross contamination. Any ideas what the problem could be? It's a vevor, same thing..
If you want to stay safe you will also buy a CO detector for your rig. Anytime you are using a combustible fuel for heating you are at risk of CO poisoning. A faulty heat exchanger can also cause CO to enter your heating space. You can have the best exhaust system in the world and still die because of a faulty heat exchanger or an air intake drawing in exhaust. The proximity of the cold air for heating intake and the exhaust makes these types of heaters extremely dangerous if you don't take the necessary precautions. CO detectors are cheap life insurance.
Crazy how much CO gas the truck engine is producing!!!! good video, I'm going to get one of those meters. thanks.
You don't want to buy one out of your pocket. There run about $1800 and that doesn't include calibration gas..
@@2awolf817 They are pricey for sure . I used to calibrate these units with the dual pumps and the smaller ones.
Seems like the smart move would be to follow the manufactures instructions. 1 locate the heater inside the camper. 2 Exhaust vented outside the camper. How valid is your test inside the closed garage with the door to the camper open to the room where the exhaust is being discharged?
Walt
Thanks Walt. Since the MSA Altair 5 works immediately, the exhaust outside could not have gotten inside that fast and with positive pressure from the heat being pumped into the sleeping area, it would be very difficult to get the CO to enter.
There's a small rubber gasket on those heaters where the fuel delivery pipe goes in. It's often not sealed well, and silisone sealant can cure it. That's the route for exhaust gases to get in, because some get sucked in the burner intake, and then escape into the interior through that hole..
There are places where exhaust can leak into the fresh air check the gaskets. Use brand-new gaskets if you take them apart and clean this heater.
Use k1 if the price is right and the heater will not soot up. If your k1 kerosene does not have enough lubricity for pump you can ad a 10% mix of diesel. I run straight k1 with no pump failure but I also have spare pumps just in case. Seriously, who knows what is in each batch of fuel out of the fuel pumps...my k1 might easily be something else lol.
Pipe exhaust overhead, above the roof. Thank You for sharing!
In our case, our roof vent is open slightly when running the heater. But good thought.
No... the water vapour in the exhaust will build up in the pipe and will choke off the combustion. It must hang down.
@@kevingeaney7741 Good point. That is correct!! Earlier I had a failure due to low spot in the hose I had on the ground. It got filled with condensation.
Also you want all the soot etc to blow out and down the exhaust. The exhaust should ideally at least slope continually down. You can tell when folks have not read the operation manuals when they have the exhaust bent up or kinked. The more you can keep all hoses etc straight...the better. Block the heater legs up so you do not need to bend hoses so much and it is much easier to work on.
I foresee problems because these were originally used in semi trucks and were not all in one units. Ideally the fuel tank should be lowest below intake on unit and then the fuel line(nylon 2m and not the green Chinese line) slope up to a filter (that is installed with the flow in the correct direction) and then to the pump (that should be tilted up towards inlet at least 15 degrees, more degrees up to 90 is best). The pump produces air bubbles that can get trapped in pump or line (especially the larger surface area green line). With everything installed correctly, air bubbles flow through pump and into heater (you can watch the little bubbles move).
There are a lot of small technical details that are often overlooked and the units run fine but the heaters run a lot longer and safer when installed correctly.
Put heavy gauge wiring to fuse etc so glow plug gets good juice. Enough...I can ramble on lol. Get a CO HVAC meter good for propane and a bunch of everything and be safe!
Hi,
Thanks for sharing.
Once thing to think about is that, while the heater is not creating much CO, it still is creating CO2, and reducing oxygen, so you still might want to install an exhaust extension to remove the possibility of it picking up CO2, which, in large concentrations can also be harmful. Not as worrisome as CO, but still not great if, especially it replaces the oxygen. That's the issue Apollo 13 had....
The other thing to consider would be to bring the air from the area you are warming to the heater body inlet from inside your conditioned space. It would reduce the heating requirements as the air being heated would not be as cold once the cab starts to heat up. Let me be clear -- I am NOT talking about using air from the conditioned space as the source for your combustion air. Let the combustion air be drawn from outside as it is now, hopefully with some kind of mesh filter on it to keep mud daubers from building nests in there.
Of course, if your intent is to provide fresh air in addition to the heat by using outside air for your conditioned air space, you would want to leave it the way it is, even though it would use more diesel.
I am going to install one of these in a boat I am restoring, but will always have a CO monitor on when using it. Especially when sleeping.
If the aluminum combustion chamber cracks, you could get CO that way, and if sleeping, that could be deadly. It's the same reason it's always a good idea to have a CO monitor in a house that has a furnace or water heater that uses combustion to produce heat. If you have electric heat r (hopefully like a heat pump )and electric water heater, you don't need to worry about this unless your auxiliary/backup/emergency heat is a gas or oil furnace.
Cheers from Oregon,
Philip
Wow. Thanks Philip!
Great info! Thanks
Yup, either duct the fresh air intake up, away from the combustion exhaust. Or vent the exhaust down away from the fresh air intake.
Wow. Thanks for sharing
Ive come where there is a leak between the combustion chamber and the heat exchanger. Its a simple fix certainty one you shpild test.
Also the exhort has to be taken far enough away from the air intake or ventilation
Your smelling diesel on the warm up due to incomplete combustion, someone cut the end off one and filmed it, early on its a very poor yellow flame but once up to temp, it burns with a blue gas like flame.
🤔 Pretty sure it's supposed to re circulate air inside the van and if you test the hot air for C0.. To tune it you measure the exhaust..
What kind of ducting is that on your heater?
It's like that flexible sewer type hose for a RV.
I am very wary of carbon monoxide output on these heaters , you clearly havent tuned your diesel heater properly and you should not have any carbon monoxide emissions from your diesel heater,
check the seal on the top of the glow plug as sometimes it doesnt seal properly and alows carbon monoxide to escape from the burn chamber into the hot air stream. from the glow plug breathe hole, yes the tiny little breathe hole, you wouldnt believe it was true.
next you need to get into the special settings menu on the blue lcd screen enter either 1866 or 9009 on the four dashes accessed by pressing the top left button on the lcd screen to enter the menu and adjust the heater at the lowest top fan setting and Hz setting that allows the two red bars to show on the display, adjustments to the top fan speed, you can turn the heater down with the lcd remote in the mnual setting using the remote to see what the lowest setting is that allows the two red bars to light up on the lcd screen..
this will allow it to burn very lean using only 1 to 2 litres of diesel in a 12 hour period. we run ours all night in a caravan at 1.7 hz we have carbon monoxide alarms set up to activate if it is being produced at all. our top fan speed is 4500 and our top temperasture setting is 5.1 Hz (or pump speed if you will) this may differ on yours.
we first took delivery of the same unit as yours it was producing 33 parts per million of carbon monoxide, now it is tuned through the special settings it produces zero carbon monoxide emissions, its no good telling you my settings as every diesel heater has a slightly different combustion output even though they all appear to be the same design.
try turning the rubber mount for the pump upside down so that the pump rests on the rubber mount rather than hanging from it ours is a little quieter now.
wow. Great feedback!! Thank you very much!
You shouldnt have carbon monoxide because diesel doesn't produce it
Where did you get the tester?
From work. Made sure it was calibrated and ready to go before samples
@@2awolf817 Better check the O2 calibration. A bit off. Cheers
I don't remember if I calibrated it that day but the MSAs are pretty accurate. Thanks
@@2awolf817 If it is reading 20.3% and there isn't and issue such as a confined space, it is out of calibration (20.9%).
Do a proper test with the door closed.
that is the exact methode
Shouldnt you have the doors closed?
And maybe, not test in a closed garage? 😂
Maybe. That MSA monitor is pretty accurate. It may have gone up a tad but we leave a vent open a little while running the heater anyways.
So those heaters are waterproof?
I don't think there "water proof" . They do run on 12v. If it gets wet enough, I would put the fuse or ruin the controller.
You modified it if the exhaust came out of the bottom instead of under the intake fan you wouldn't have a problem
Great demonstration..... Thanks
Your test is flawed. You should have run it outside with a pipe far away from the vehicle to what gets in the vehickle.
You think the external exhaust was coming into the back door? Remember, the back area is positive pressure ventilation. It would be difficult but possible. Thanks
Diesel doesn't produce carbon monoxide. Only CO2 and no2
Sure does see dieselinjurylaw.com
It doesn't produce CO if it has absolutely perfect combustion (You live on a planet with 100% oxygen atmosphere). Even a well tuned heater will produce CO because we live in an imperfect world.
@@2awolf817 We serve railroad workers sickened by diesel exhaust and other railroad carcinogens. Railroad workers are often exposed to other toxins such as asbestos, solvents, fuels, welding fumes, silica, and creosote. Our experienced railroad cancer lawyers take all those exposures into account when consulting with experts and determining whether your illness is work-related.
from the website. not just diesel
100% it does. His heater is newer and in good working condition, wait till the burner cokes up a bit. Why chance it, just put the rubber hose on and vent it farther away.