My 2006 F-150 Lariat Super Crew 5.4 3v has 272,000 miles and has only had two sets of plugs and an intake cleaning. Everything else is original. Switched to 5W30 full synthetic years before I found Brian’s channel and his recommendation. Pulled a fifth wheel travel trailer multiple times a year until my wife died 3 years ago. Absolutely love this truck.
Same here but my 06 has 240k on it. I’m thinking it’s time to freshen her up. Edit: my condolences only read the first half of your comment, side not I switched it up after finding his channel. Can you guess how I found his channel? 😅
Check your truck frame. My 2006 died of frame rot, the 5.4 3v was running strong at 156,000 miles, the frames rot from the inside out. By the time you notice it, it’s already too late to save it. I didn’t want it to break apart on the highway unexpectedly, it had to go.
@@ronjohnson8816 it was a 1.5 day process dropped off in the morning went to the hotel for the day it was ready when I checked out the next day. As far as cost I’m not comfortable sharing simply because parts prices may have changed, I also had everything done including roller followers and lash adjusters as well as some other fluids serviced while I was there. Best bet for an accurate price would be to reach out to Brian directly. What I can also share is that he’s super professional and responsive to even the dumbest questions from guys like me. Highly recommend the trip and I think the pricing was fair and also very much in line with having somebody without his experience do the same job.
I did the same thing and drove over 2,000 miles which I drove none stop 26 hours to see Brian and he did the everything and I mean everything and some more and he was able to get it all completed in 2 in a half days. I would say hands down the best money spent and decision made.
@@HannibalAcrotices it was the best $6,500 spent Items replaced at 250,000 on original engine and transmission. The following items are replaced during the service: chains, tensioners, guides, tensioner arms, VCT solenoids, phasers, Melling HV oil pump, gaskets and oil change after. two heater hoses, oil pan removal for clean out, all engine mounts, transmission mounts, coolant hoses, new water pump, new spark plugs, new rocker arm, valve lifter, follower lash adjusters. All work was completed and done within 2 days.
This is why I fix my own stuff because a lot of shops just don't care or have the right people to do good work you are someone I would trust to do the job right
Same thing I do, even if I don't have the tools,I'll buy them, take my time and get it done properly, to many dealerships pay there mechanics by the job,not the hour, so it's quick, slam, bam, get it done, and the old saying applies, haste makes waste, when doing a job yourself, asking questions if you don't know, this channel is very good, he speaks in detail and knows his mechanics, most other mechanic channels leave out the details , not all,but most, he's all FORD, and FORDS have there problems, and you can't overlook them or you end up with a 2 ton radio .... 🎉 or scrap metal, or a 10k engine or transmission, especially the 09 to 2014 F - 150 that have transmission cooling lines that are defective and they burst if not changed, there goes the transmission, 6k or more for a rebuilt if you can find one..
Mr Mak, thank you for what is essentially a refresher on the three valve. What you covered you have previously illustrated well, going back I guess 5 or more years ago when you started your channel on the three valve engine. I studied your many videos on the 3 valve and on other subjects like it was my PhD project. Many people in the comments section are behind the 8 ball, several of them did not listen closely to what you said here, they are asking questions for which you have already given the answers again today. As a rule the recommendation is to use OEM Ford parts. The melling high volume pump is recommended and the new chain tensioner design, valve tensioners and followers are recommended, all from Ford except the oil pump. The cam bearing caps are not interchangable nor replaceable, they are made to fit only that head, I can't believe that question was asked in comments, after the time you took explaining that in this video. Finally you rightly stressed the need to do quality tech work, right down to proper cleaning of sealing surfaces and torque of fasteners. It is not rocket science but apparently it is beyond the scope of capability for some professionals and DIY types. I think you need to open some satellite shops, sounds like there would be plenty of business to keep them busy.
Been running a Cloyes kit with Melling HV oil pump on my 09 Expedition for probably 60k and no issues. Quiet and smooth. Did the job myself using some of his tips and been fine ever since.
@@matthew1992ya That's odd. I used a Cloyes timing kit on both my Explorer 4.0 SOHC and my Duratec Race car. In both cases the chains in the Cloyes kits were marked with the Morse brand, just like the OEM chains. They also appeared identical to the original chains. Same with the sprockets.
We put a Cloyes timing set in my son's 2012 Regal GS and thankfully it's been fine. I thought Cloyes was a good brand. We were concerned with going OEM GM since that set gave out at only 105K.
@@calholli I know a Ford tech who works on E350 airport shuttle vans. They recently replaced an engine on one of the vans at 960K. It was all original and still ran fine but they transport seniors from the Villages to the Orlando Airport (roughly 60 miles) and didn't want to risk it letting go and breaking down. Granted it's all highway miles and maintenance was kept up, but it shows that these can last if cared for. They had a bunch of "low mile" vans with only 400K on them and no plans to rebuild anytime soon. He wasn't so fond of the new Transit vans that they started buying, I'm guessing those won't last that long without major repairs. These two guys may still have some time left!
Our shop has performed the timing chain, tensioners, guides and roller followers from Ford (in accordance with Brian’s recommendations on this channel) The only non-Ford part we used was the Melling HO engine oil pump. That 2009 F-150 has over 25,000 miles since this service. The truck had 198,000 miles when this procedure was performed. We saw those Melling cast iron tensioners, but we chose to go with the upgraded Ford tensioners.
Love the videos 👍🏻 I did timing chain job on my 5.4L 3v I followed your video step by step and buy only ford parts except Melling oil pump Truck is still running no problems
I love your channel man. You do amazing work. Over the years of everything you have shown us has made me decide that with all the crappy cars that are produced and crappy mechanics in the country witch is probably about 99% of them I think its about time to go back to the old cars and trucks from the 70s and 80s. My old carb chevy Silverado gets 17mpg a d has 289k miles on it and ive changed the water pump, plugs and wires and it still runs good and has decent compression. Never costs me any money.
Brian, just saw this video and as a result we have reviewed this and can state that the timing chain shown is not a Melling chain. The Melling chain has the same smooth finish as the Ford OE chain.
Been watching your videos for years! My Mark LT has over 375,000km with a 93 octane tune and pulls amazingly! All thanks to you melling and ford oem parts!
Yeah for something this technical it’s very possible they will mess somthing up like incorrectly torquing phasers, not getting new phaser bolts, wrong timing, not changing vvt solenoids, not cleaning gaskets well etc…
It's because most shops don't pay crap. I get 15 an hour and I'm doing things as invasive as this to vehicles. I'm just trying to use this as a jumping off point to a better employer. My boss hates how long I take on stuff but I'm not doing stuff wrong just to ruin my reputation.
@@RejectReality97 Yep, they'll moan and complain that young people don't want to work, failing to realize that they pay worse than McDonalds, with less benefits and YOU are responsible for buying tools which will set you back a grand.
@@RejectReality97I’m a mechanic too you will get there. Often times leaving is the best choice, there are a lot of jobs open for mechanics. I’d recommend a dealership or CarMax for better pay. I work at CarMax currently
@@RejectReality97 Unfortunately, unless you're at a dealership that pays very well, time is money. Even construction work. getting paid by the hour, I was always rushed by bosses to go faster.
You have the best Ford vehicle videos. They are super informative and well done. You saved me a lot of money on my 2017 Explorer by just doing some maintenance instead of waiting for failure…especially the transfer case. Thank you sir! You have a PhD in Ford repairs.
I followed your videos and did a timing job on my 2010 F-150. I used all OEM parts except the Melling high volume oil pump. It's been almost 15k miles now, I was just starting to be able to sleep at night thinking I must have done okay. After watching this video I'm afraid I'll be waking up with cold sweats again wondering if I torqued everything right and if I got the cam caps back in the right spots and if... Dammit I hate you! Thanks for the great video and all your help. I know you've saved me thousands.
As much as it hurt, this is why I had the timing job done at Ford on my 2014 Explorer Sport. Some Independent's might say, sure we'll do it, but have done few.
Any competent mechanic should be able to do this job. Some of that shoddy work says hack even though they agreed to use parts that the customer wanted to use.
@@KStewart-th4sk not tightening the crank bolt properly and reusing it ( torque to yield ) is just incompetent and thus their negligence cos the customer t more money because now the crank is compromised.
I did my own timing job using your videos because I knew this could happen to me. I only use my expy for towing my rv now but your videos saved me. It took me a lot of time and I did make some mistakes along the way but nothing serious just a little time. These engines are so resilient I'm just shocked at all the hate they get. Over 300k miles so far..always start always gets me home
I really feel for this customer... I have an 03 2v 4.6L with 292K miles, the timing chain guides started making a hell of a racket during cold starts and would eventually subside when the truck warmed up. But then during warm idle in gear I would lose oil pressure (Timing guide debris was blocking my oil pickup!) This all happened about 3 weeks after I bought the truck so I decided to replace everything. I used the Cloyes timing set, and a Melling HV pump. But I also took the oil pan down, cleaned everything out, parts of the tensioners were in the pickup tube screen blocking it partially, the rest were in the bottom of the oil pan. If you ever have timing guide failure you MUST pull the pan & pickup tube out to get them clean. Added bonus... when I was buying this truck from the previous owner he said that he had new heads put on it due to a head gasket failure... I looked and indeed they were new heads, but not new cams, not new timing components... WHY would someone do that!!?? Well I also found out that timing was off on bank 1 by 4 teeth... yes, 4 teeth! I had been chasing down a rich code and THIS was the reason, unfortunately this was too little too late for my passenger Catalytic Converter. God knows how long the previous owner was driving on this. I've replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets along with the timing cover gaskets and a new crank seal. Also all new coils, spark plugs & Injectors. Now that all of this is done I don't think I'll have any issues, I also use 5w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic instead of 5w-20. This Truck has never run so good and been so quiet! All I hear is the Injectors ticking away, I'm Looking forward to another 200K. I do have plans to build an engine on the side with some work done to it in the meantime though, cores are cheap and I can just start building something to put into it if and when it's not worth fixing the existing engine. Thanks for everything you do Brian, I know I didn't use all Ford parts on this but I follow all of your procedures and of course I RTFM. 😃
I preemptively did a timing job on my 04 at 153k, following Brian's 4 part series. When I took off the front and valve covers, everything was perfect. I put a pint of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL in at every 5 k change. I did the timing job,melling hv oil pump, new followers and lash adjusters. ONLY USE FORD OEM PARTS. My truck now has 170k, runs like a watch.
@@AlanPhillips-g1c well, I'm 77, and I've been using it since I worked in a transmission shop starting at 11 yrs old on the advice of an old timer. Now I'm an old timer, and I still use it in every piece of equipment with an ICE engine I own. I also read a recommendation in American Modeler magazine to use it to winterize my little glow plug engines. My vehicles are a 1994 F150, and a 2004 F150. Both run like swiss watches. So I think I'll keep doing it my way.
That's an ongoing problem for many many years now. Aftermarket parts simply don't have the quality put in them like OEM parts, and consequently that leads to engine destruction. My 06 Nissan Frontier had the two chain tensioners that tighten the small intake cam gears to exhaust cam gears chains wore out and making variable noise as the vehicle accelerated. Fortunately I got into it before the metal to metal contact could lead to specs of metal inside the engine. Anyway, I hope the customer gets the vehicle fixed correctly and it's back in service soon. Good one Brian.
When doing this work, what would be the best way to keep the cam parts in the right order? Some kind of soft stamping on the parts or just a magic marker!
I can not say with certainity but there is a good chance the customer bought the Melling kit of Amazon and maybe it was a Chinese counterfeit parts kit
Our shop couldn’t get all the parts at the local Ford dealership. We ended up buying a kit from a Ford dealership through Amazon (all packed up in a large box). The only additional items we ordered through Amazon was the Melling engine oil pump.
I had a Toyota Cloyes timing chain tensioner seize up on me 6 months after I did the repair. Could have crashed the engine. Not worth aftermarket for critical components.
@@FordTechMakulocoI think I saw another TH-camr where they purchased a machined part from Summit that was supposed to have been made from a US company. The customer returned the part to the manufacturer and they found the part was a phony. Be careful
For heavy duty engine repair, I wouldn't take it anywhere else but your shop.....so sad to see how the mistakes this shop made really cost this guy. Thanks for the integrity with which you work!
4 yrs ago, had a full timing job done per your instructions on my 5.4L 3V 2008 Expedition Limited. (It's a late 01/08 build so part wise it is considered a 2009) I didn't know about upgrading the chain tensioners at that time. I also didn't know about keeping a record of the order of the cam caps but I did the new phasers and VCT components and the Melling Hi Volume oil pump. Few months later, cam caps and cams were chewed up. Had to replace the cams. The cam cap info in today's video is new information for me. I change my oil every 3,000 miles. A few weeks ago, the chain passenger side tensioner failed and it jumped time. It has 235K miles. Before it went down it seems the phasers were locking up (not sure the correct term). Supposedly no other engine damage occurred when it jumped time and there were no metal flakes in oil. I am the 2nd owner and I know how meticulously I have cared for the truck during the 10 years I have owned it but I am at the point of moving on due to the flawed engine design. I already purchased a new vehicle for my wife. I am debating whether or not to fix this 2008 to keep as a work vehicle. The haul space of an Expedition with flat folded seats is amazing. (Previously it was wife daily driver) Would you guys move forward with the 2nd timing job? Or I could sell it for approx $2k and walk away?
@@majickmeg I looked at the torn down engine in detail with my trusted mechanic who has rebuilt several engines for us. In days prior to this happening, the chain had slack upon start up due to a failed tensioner (bad design, common problem) and the plastic guide broke into peices and small plastic pieces goes under the timing chain causing it to skip 1 or 2 teeth then the plastic debris clogs the oil pick up. Thankfully we turned it off immediately when this happened so no further engine damage occurred. @fordtechmakuloco actually has a detailed video about this exact scenario and shows you in detail of how it happens using a torn down engine that had this same thing happen. This is a very common problem for this particular engine.
If you keep good care of it, I would bring it or ship it to Brian in Illinois for a timing job or new engine. Even at 10k (if you need a new engine) for the work it’s hard to find the value of the Expedition in today’s vehicles with the cost of sensors and such. I have an 2009 limited and really value the analog aspects of it.
@@enterprisar863 great points, yes prices have gone crazy. I like the analog comment bc I have pondered how newer vehicles will function when so much technology fails bc the more tech it has the more things to go wrong
@@gotellhismercy I worked for global automotive OEM on the repair side from 2016-2022. And I got a 1st had look at the ADAS systems (I.e all the modern safety systems) in vehicles. Oh you have a simple water pump to replace but to get to the water pump you have to take off an ADAS sensor, well you now have an ADAS repair because that sensors has to be recalibrated when you put it back on. I’m going to keep my 09 to it falls apart. My next vehicle will likely be 2019 something Toyota. After 2020 the ADAS on vehicles just got to crazy
I just did a cam/rocker replacement on a dodge 3.6. I marked every cam cap with a sharpie so no mixups can occur. The timing system in the 3.6’s seem pretty solid, but the rockers/fillers are pretty common failure point
Thank you for this video ! I guess I’m going to set aside my new Melling parts for the 5.4 2 valve, and try to obtain all Ford for timing set. 1998 Exp.
Love your videos. I do the timing job 4 years ago on my 08 Expedition with your videos. I use only Ford Parts to do this. Cost my round about $800 with shipping, tax and Customs duties to Germany. I found a metalplate on my Engine, that says, it was a original Ford Remanufactured Engine from 2012. And this Engine !!! has !!! bearings on the camshafts.
Was just in the game hunting for a used truck and had great luck with my old 96 F150 5.0, got over 300k hard working and off road miles and she still runs good but the truck has too many issues to keep throwing $ at. Had 10k cash and was really wanting a newer Ford but with that little amount of money was such a gamble with these Triton powertrains, some guys get 400k or more miles and some blow up under a 100k. Said to hell with it and bought a Tundra.
Great, this makes me nervous because i just did this job on my truck this past weekend. I used the amazon link from your previous videos to get the parts. I even used the plastic tensioners that you recommended, they look identical to those one from this video.
Got 06 expi, almost got the cloyes kit for 147k timing job, but took a warning from your content. Went all oem and used the link you posted for the kit. Couldn't be more happy now
Always so informational thank you. Have an 07 that needs to be. Gonna have to bite the bullet an take it to the dealer I hope that's the best place to. 🤞
Believe it or not, when I did a phaser job on my 04 Navigator, I discovered that from the factory they forgot that clip installed on the chain tensioner! It wore a little on the cover. Must have been installed on a Friday. I bought the Navigator cheap from a GM dealership, they were convinced the engine was bad. I could hear it needed a timing job. Turned out great with the help of your video series.
i used a cloyes kit on my 4.6 2v a couple years ago. still running great 10s of thousands of miles later, but i guess we'll see how much longer it lasts lol
I have a 2010 Expedition I bought used a few years ago. No issues with it as of now (149k). Wish I was closer to your shop to get some preventative maintenance done. I really don’t have much faith in shops in my area.
Where are all the aftermarket suppliers at? Ask a few companies to join in an give this owner a brand new engine with a few more add ons to the Truck. You'll get more viewership but most importantly a good feeling deep down inside.
Me and a buddy once did valve lash on his dad's Suzuki Sidekick. Forgot the detail about turning the engine to TDC on each cylinder - we just turned to TDC on cylinder #1 and did them all. After a few seconds of symphony of rockers after startup, we clued in to our mistake. Engine lived for many more years. I wish I could say we were in our teens, but it was much later than that. Oh, and filling a garage and neighborhood with smoke after putting too much oil trying to start a rotary.
I have a 2013 Expedition with high mileage (215K) that had timing chain/rocker arm issues when I got it. I made the common (apparently) mistake of buying a Chinese "kit" to fix it with. Everything was fine for the first 1,000 miles or so, then I started having problems with the Phasers. The driver's side cam kept getting out of phase when it wasn't supposed to. So I replaced that solenoid, didn't fix the problem. The engine is extremely clean. I even dropped the pan when I did the job to make sure it was cleaned out completely. Moving forward, I decided rather than spend more money on parts and taking it all the way back apart again, I did some research and decided to do a VVT delete on it. I'm aware of the pros and cons, it was my decision and I'm sticking with it. My question to you is this - I know I need to have a tune to disable the VVT logic so that it doesn't turn on the check engine light. Planning to have that done very shortly. However, it runs MUCH better now, but once it gets into a situation where the VVT tries to activate, it feels like it's pulling timing way back. And once the light comes on, it seems to remain in that state. Is this a normal "limp mode" when this malfunction occurs? P0014 & P0024. Just curious. Thanks for all the videos you post. Its good stuff.
Brian we really appreciate you telling us the truth out there it makes a big difference when we make decisions on fixing our cars with your knowledge thank you
Love your videos. I have repaired three 5.4 3 valve engines where someone had the timing 180 out, One on the left head and 2 on the right head. I was amazed that I was able to repair them. They did not have any valve to piston damage. I did a timing job on a 2010 5.4 where the owner broke the cam, chains and phaser. I was able to repair it with no valve damage. It has 60,000 on the repair. And only spent about $800 in parts. I have done several other timing jobs on almost every ford model. been doing it for 30 years, These engines are not throw away engines they can be repaired. Usually within one day.
Point taken. That being said, I haven't had any problems so far with Cloyes kits but will be mindful going forward. Factory Ford parts are quite a bit more when you put a kit together with various pieces. I wish my local Ford dealers had all of the parts in one box like Cloyes.
This is a great example of the difference between a technician and a parts changer. I feel bad for the owner. I don't know many people who can afford 10K to fix this mess. Hopefully the other shop will cover it. I doubt it, but maybe they will after receiving some encouragement
Yeah and in the rust belt putting $10K into an older vehicle is not feasible anyway as the body will rot off before a new engine wears out. At least if he takes them to court he'll have a nice video showing all of the faults!
The chain I absolutely see it the ford chain is made with flat links the melling it rounded it would definitely make sense it would ware out guides. Your videos are so informative I will tell you this my 08 expedition is nearing 250k is under boost and I’m has never been opened up for internal work. I will eventually do the lash adjusters and rollers but until I hear or notice a vct issue it’s staying the way it came. I do my own maintenance religiously and I also do all my own calibration work this maybe why I have had such good luck with my truck.
I always number my cam caps if they are ever pulled for motors I work on. You can’t mix them up because if I’m not mistaken the cam bores are line honed after a head is built and each cap belongs to it specifically tower.
I have a beautiful Truck took care of it 5.4 all the stuff you’re talking about is happening. I wish I could find someone like you to replace some parts.
I did phaser lockout outs and ecu programming from Drag Radial Performance on my 2010 with 205k. Best running truck I've ever had since. Super quiet and way more power.
It's funny you mentioned the tensioner being hard to push. On our 2010 5.4 that's missing like crazy brand new oem set the bank 1 tensioner wont push in like that and no milage on them the bank 2 is fine but it's missing on bank 1 so wondering if ford will exchange them they have since changed the oem set I bought right after I bought it
I remember speaking with gentleman. He was dropping his truck off at Brian's while I was picking my Explorer up from there. Darn shame; his Expedition looked really clean.
Thanks for all you videos on the 5.4 3v Good to know for anyone that has one or needs maintenance. With that said I have 2012 Ford Escape 3.0 v6 front wheel drive. I have ~175k Would love to have a 5 min. chat with you about it, no major issues, just want to know whether to keep it or upgrade it. I have a spreadsheet of my own repairs/maint. done thanks to your video series on these. Thanks.
No one in my Neck of the Woods likes to work on these 5.4 Triton Engines, my neighbor who has been a mechanic for 40 years at local Chevy/Toyota Dealership changed plugs on my truck at 100,000, he soaked the plugs threads down overnight with penetrating oil and eased all the plugs out with manual socket set, didn't break any plugs, he has done several since then the same way--all good results...
When I do the timing sets I use only Ford parts but I opt for the mechanical tensioners vs the oil ones I believe it's a 2000 4.6 model tensioner no more blow outs and I swap the oil pump for high volume
Wish you were closer to me.....I just turned 199,000 miles on my 08 KR coming back to Ga. from Maine....no noises truck runs like a dream.....but I looking for a good tech to do it with my parts.....
Good morning. Is there a good way to tell if I for sure need a timing job if the vehicle isn't running? I have a 2012 expedition with the 5.4. It just stopped going down the road. i have fuel to the rail and replaced the cam sensors as that code is showing up in forscan. I haven’t been able to get it to start since. I sure appreciate the knowledge you share in your videos.
I got an 05 F-150 with a 5.4 Triton in it I haven't had any major problems with the motor not one I got 320,000 on it I've rebuilt the front end now I need to replace the bed other than that I love the truck
The Melling service grade kits come with the cast iron tensioners and a Chain that looks identical to a ford OEM chain, Made in USA to boot, the Crank gear also is alot more quality than their cheaper kits!
This is a little off-topic, but kind of applies. My 3.5 EB has 225,000 km (138,000 miles). Started leaking about a year ago. As an AME, I'm used to stuff that goes 'round and 'round - so quickly diagnosed a rear-main oil seal leak. Got 3 estimates from Ford service depts, anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Went with a local shop that out-bid the dealers. OK, paid $700 got the leak "fixed". Two weeks later, it starts leaking. Shop blows me off - "ah, just monitor it...". Yeah right. Replacing the valve-cover really helped (heat-cycled gasket had hardened and cracked). Still leaking. Took it to my local Ford service dept and the tech confirmed - rear main seal is leaking. I'm getting he dealer to do the repair. It'll cost me almost $2,000, but it'll get fixed. Which saves me $70,000+ for a new truck. Moral of the story - if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Shoulda gone to the dealer about a year ago.
He does have other video's that go into details on the whole job, and they are fairly concise. Definitely not a job for the average "shadetree mechanic".
@@Internutt2023 I’ve watched them but I’ve always been informed that melling and cloyes make the parts for ford, so it’s crazy to see how bad the parts are if they actually do manufacture them for ford, except the oil pump is the only good aftermarket part from them.
I prefer the M340HV for the 3V, because it keeps the same maximum oil pressure, only brings up the minimum oil pressure. The M340HV was specifically designed for the 3V, the 360HV works well too, but it was designed for either the 2 or the 4V variant, I'm not sure.
I hope the shop makes it right for the guy. I can see a lawsuit in the future. I have an 06 F150 with 5.4. I would love to put a 4.6 or older 5.0. Got any suggestions? Thanks for all that you show us and for doing jobs the way they should be done.
I have an 07 5.4L F-150 with 183k miles. Engine has never quit on me but there is a loud ticking noise coming from it and it’s been there a long time. What could it be?
Is it realistic to get the camshaft journals line bored and bearing caps installed to fix the excessive wear in the cylinder heads? Can’t decide if I should do that or just get remanned heads. Frankly I’ll admit I did my own timing job recently and 100% mixed up the caps due to my own stupidity and getting too ahead of myself. I now have the engine fully out and am deciding on my next step. I did not run it for long like that but the grooves do catch my nails.
I am going to get into my mustangs timing system it’s a 4.6. I am considering the cast iron tensioners and the melling HV oil pump. Will only go with the Ford performance timing chains. What are your thoughts on the combo?
The confusion with Melling is due to them selling different grades. Theres a “service” grade and “professional” grade. I contacted Melling about the difference between the two. According to them the service grade is mostly import parts while the professional line is mostly US made (Ford OE) parts. But they didnt specify which parts were what. I just installed their professional grade with iron tensioners, Ford phasers/solenoids and Ford camshafts a couple months ago. Runs fantastic on an engine with 179k. Ive also used Melling on my 4.6 2v and its got 70k on it that kit. Not a single hiccup. Not all Melling stuff is junk. You need to do your own research though.
I did the same for my 3.5 Ecoboost. I ordered the professional timing kit from Melling through O’Reilly. It was chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket. Every single part had the Ford Motorcraft part number rubbed off with what looked like a dremel. Held up next to the OEM parts, they were exactly the same, just with a literally rubbed off FoMoCo part number. I used OEM phasers, but in the case of my Ecoboost, Melling seems to be supplier of the Motorcraft parts. There were zero casting issues or differences between what I removed from my engine.
For 04-08 5.4 3v owners I always put in 7 quarts but usually only get out 5 after draining the oil. That’s after adding one extra qt at 2,500 and changing at around 5000 miles. Semi synthetic 5w30. Truck has 240,000 miles & runs great Also trans fluid has never been changed is it worth doing?
On the 5.4 I rebuild the bottom but my cams lobe key got worn out so am thinking of get new heads for it. What's your thoughts on new heads for this engine?
Love your videos. I'm looking for new/rebuild engine for my 2011 E-350 van. Do you have a recommendation of quality and trustworthy places I can purchase from? Tired of half ass rebuilds. Let me know please if you don't mind. Thanks
I guess i did ok on mine thanks to you. Original failed at 90k. I Re built per your older videos. At 145k now. And there is a tick on startup that goes away after about 15-30 seconds. But it has been doing that for well over 10k. So not too worried at the moment. Unless you say i should worry about it😬
Great video! You said something at the end of the video that caught my attention. You mentioned dying at stop signs. I have a 2011 F150 EB that I did the timing chain, phasers, etc using your videos as my guide in 2020. Recently, while towing, I'll come to a stoplight and the engine will shudder and die. If I powerbrake at the light, it will stay running. I wonder if I should change from 5w30 to 5w40. Vehicle sees towing service only.
Just did total rebuild on this engine. It’s a beast to rebuild but I got it bored 20 over and changed $4000 dollars worth of parts. It can be done but you have to check your parts.
I have a question, i have 2010 f150 crew lariat 120k miles did the timing chain as you have instructed. changed the rollers etc double checked all points and bolts. i ran my finger over the driver side chain and very little wiggle, but the passenger side has visible slack about 1/4 inch side to side... is this normal ?
Where you located at brother? I’ve got a 2006 f250 with a 5.4 and a zf6 in it, she needs a timing set bad and I have absolutely no time to fool with it. My home garage can’t accommodate the length of my truck and still have room to work. I’d love to have you take care of it and have peace of mind knowing it was done right. TIA
The updated ford plastic ones are better. They’re non ratcheting unlike the cast iron ones. Makuloco recommends staying with the updated oem plastic versions. The ratcheting ones are known to stretch chains out
Know of any ways to keep mechanics honest? I've spent $1800 in recommended ford parts on this Timing/Rocker Arm Lash Kit, Oil Pump Upgrade and water pump to boot. I don't trust very many mechanics anymore, except Makuloco but he lives on the other side of the country.
You are correct as usual! Ive seen the best work and advice on your vids over the years! My Ford makes me loco. But, happy to have a go to place to keep it goin! Now, a video on fuel sending unit 2012 f-250 gasser? 😂
Does Ford still make available the timing chains, guides and tensioners for the 4.6L 2V? I purchased a Cloyes kit last time I did one. I find a similar issue with clutch kits, they all come with junk throw out bearings. I just replaced my clutch Mcleod and didn’t use the bearing supplied with the kit. I bought a Ford Performance bearing and clutch cable.
I recently did this job and used all ford oem parts except the timing chains and oil pump which are Melling, I have the ford updated tensioners installed, should I replace the Melling chain with the ford oem ones? Kinda scared of the Melling chains after hearing that they have broken before
Just to clarify, you saying they put cheap aftermarket roller followers with smaller oil holes ? or you saying they did not replace the new ford model factory oem roller followers that now have smaller holes in them ?
I bought a 2017 ford explorer police vehicle and have to change the PTU. I`ve been watching this creator's videos. Sadly, mine while it's working it is leaking fluid, the seals are shot. I have ALLDATA DIY so I'm looking up all the parts and so forth. Mine has the oil cooler which adds another variable because you either need to cap the pipes when removed really quick, or you drain the coolant.
1) Can the heads and caps be line bored to accept a bearing shell? 2) Why don't shops engrave those caps to ensure proper placement? 3) Is a 5K oil change interval OK for a 2013 Expy? 4) Will an oil test at Blackstone reveal damage like this?
My 2006 F-150 Lariat Super Crew 5.4 3v has 272,000 miles and has only had two sets of plugs and an intake cleaning. Everything else is original. Switched to 5W30 full synthetic years before I found Brian’s channel and his recommendation. Pulled a fifth wheel travel trailer multiple times a year until my wife died 3 years ago. Absolutely love this truck.
Same here but my 06 has 240k on it. I’m thinking it’s time to freshen her up. Edit: my condolences only read the first half of your comment, side not I switched it up after finding his channel. Can you guess how I found his channel? 😅
Sorry for your loss.
Check your truck frame. My 2006 died of frame rot, the 5.4 3v was running strong at 156,000 miles, the frames rot from the inside out. By the time you notice it, it’s already too late to save it. I didn’t want it to break apart on the highway unexpectedly, it had to go.
@@markk3652 My frame is perfect. I live very far away from the salt and rust belt.
@@markk3652There's a video of how strong those truck frames really are even incredibly rusted. Junkyard Digs did a video on it.
This is exactly why I drove the 2.5 hours to get my truck over to you for the bulletproof! Easiest and Best decision I’ve made in auto repair!
Can you share how long the work took and how much it cost? I'm thinking of driving 6hrs to BSG to have this done!
@@ronjohnson8816 it was a 1.5 day process dropped off in the morning went to the hotel for the day it was ready when I checked out the next day. As far as cost I’m not comfortable sharing simply because parts prices may have changed, I also had everything done including roller followers and lash adjusters as well as some other fluids serviced while I was there. Best bet for an accurate price would be to reach out to Brian directly. What I can also share is that he’s super professional and responsive to even the dumbest questions from guys like me. Highly recommend the trip and I think the pricing was fair and also very much in line with having somebody without his experience do the same job.
I did the same thing and drove over 2,000 miles which I drove none stop 26 hours to see Brian and he did the everything and I mean everything and some more and he was able to get it all completed in 2 in a half days. I would say hands down the best money spent and decision made.
@@906lanehow much was it?
@@HannibalAcrotices it was the best $6,500 spent
Items replaced at 250,000 on original engine and transmission.
The following items are replaced during the service: chains, tensioners, guides, tensioner arms, VCT solenoids, phasers, Melling HV oil pump, gaskets and oil change after. two heater hoses, oil pan removal for clean out, all engine mounts, transmission mounts, coolant hoses, new water pump, new spark plugs, new rocker arm, valve lifter, follower lash adjusters.
All work was completed and done within 2 days.
This is why I fix my own stuff because a lot of shops just don't care or have the right people to do good work you are someone I would trust to do the job right
Amen. It takes me longer than it used to, and I get sore as all get out and hurt for days afterward, but I still do it at 64 for the same reasons.
Same thing I do, even if I don't have the tools,I'll buy them, take my time and get it done properly, to many dealerships pay there mechanics by the job,not the hour, so it's quick, slam, bam, get it done, and the old saying applies, haste makes waste, when doing a job yourself, asking questions if you don't know, this channel is very good, he speaks in detail and knows his mechanics, most other mechanic channels leave out the details , not all,but most, he's all FORD, and FORDS have there problems, and you can't overlook them or you end up with a 2 ton radio .... 🎉 or scrap metal, or a 10k engine or transmission, especially the 09 to 2014 F - 150 that have transmission cooling lines that are defective and they burst if not changed, there goes the transmission, 6k or more for a rebuilt if you can find one..
Mr Mak, thank you for what is essentially a refresher on the three valve. What you covered you have previously illustrated well, going back I guess 5 or more years ago when you started your channel on the three valve engine. I studied your many videos on the 3 valve and on other subjects like it was my PhD project. Many people in the comments section are behind the 8 ball, several of them did not listen closely to what you said here, they are asking questions for which you have already given the answers again today. As a rule the recommendation is to use OEM Ford parts. The melling high volume pump is recommended and the new chain tensioner design, valve tensioners and followers are recommended, all from Ford except the oil pump. The cam bearing caps are not interchangable nor replaceable, they are made to fit only that head, I can't believe that question was asked in comments, after the time you took explaining that in this video. Finally you rightly stressed the need to do quality tech work, right down to proper cleaning of sealing surfaces and torque of fasteners. It is not rocket science but apparently it is beyond the scope of capability for some professionals and DIY types. I think you need to open some satellite shops, sounds like there would be plenty of business to keep them busy.
So if I swap the camshafts from a Mustang 2005 to a 2008, it will not work ?
Thanks to your videos, I just did a timing Job on my 05 f250 with 236,000 miles. It made my truck run great again
Make All Fords Great Again!!
I did a full timing job on my 08 f-250 and pulled the heads new lifters etc and runs like new !!! Thank you soo much for putting these videos out !!!!
Been running a Cloyes kit with Melling HV oil pump on my 09 Expedition for probably 60k and no issues. Quiet and smooth. Did the job myself using some of his tips and been fine ever since.
Those cloyes chains like to snap in half
@@matthew1992ya That's odd.
I used a Cloyes timing kit on both my Explorer 4.0 SOHC and my Duratec Race car.
In both cases the chains in the Cloyes kits were marked with the Morse brand, just like the OEM chains.
They also appeared identical to the original chains. Same with the sprockets.
We put a Cloyes timing set in my son's 2012 Regal GS and thankfully it's been fine. I thought Cloyes was a good brand. We were concerned with going OEM GM since that set gave out at only 105K.
Just hit 355k on my 04 5.4L. Still runnin strong
My 06 hit 376k before finally going out
You can't ask much more out of it. lol.. Her days are numbered
@@calholli facts. Got every penny out of er tho. Will miss it when it finally goes.
@@calholli I know a Ford tech who works on E350 airport shuttle vans. They recently replaced an engine on one of the vans at 960K. It was all original and still ran fine but they transport seniors from the Villages to the Orlando Airport (roughly 60 miles) and didn't want to risk it letting go and breaking down. Granted it's all highway miles and maintenance was kept up, but it shows that these can last if cared for. They had a bunch of "low mile" vans with only 400K on them and no plans to rebuild anytime soon. He wasn't so fond of the new Transit vans that they started buying, I'm guessing those won't last that long without major repairs. These two guys may still have some time left!
I suspect you guys are changing oil on a regular basis
Our shop has performed the timing chain, tensioners, guides and roller followers from Ford (in accordance with Brian’s recommendations on this channel) The only non-Ford part we used was the Melling HO engine oil pump. That 2009 F-150 has over 25,000 miles since this service. The truck had 198,000 miles when this procedure was performed. We saw those Melling cast iron tensioners, but we chose to go with the upgraded Ford tensioners.
Are you saying your shop did this job? I'm confused...
You gonna reply to the first question?
@@Nick-xs3bg so I'm not the only one that wondered?? That's good to hear. 😂
@@Traxxis03no, he said it was a 2009 F150. The vehicle in the video is a 2014 Expedition.
Love the videos 👍🏻
I did timing chain job on my 5.4L 3v I followed your video step by step and buy only ford parts except Melling oil pump
Truck is still running no problems
I love your channel man. You do amazing work. Over the years of everything you have shown us has made me decide that with all the crappy cars that are produced and crappy mechanics in the country witch is probably about 99% of them I think its about time to go back to the old cars and trucks from the 70s and 80s. My old carb chevy Silverado gets 17mpg a d has 289k miles on it and ive changed the water pump, plugs and wires and it still runs good and has decent compression. Never costs me any money.
Can’t beat em
Doting “ I’s “ & crossing T’s That’s what happens at BSG !
Great Job !
Thanks for the info Brian!
Brian, just saw this video and as a result we have reviewed this and can state that the timing chain shown is not a Melling chain. The Melling chain has the same smooth finish as the Ford OE chain.
Been watching your videos for years! My Mark LT has over 375,000km with a 93 octane tune and pulls amazingly! All thanks to you melling and ford oem parts!
Exactly why I don't take my vehicles to the shop. Unfortunately, most shops don't really know what they are doing.
Yeah for something this technical it’s very possible they will mess somthing up like incorrectly torquing phasers, not getting new phaser bolts, wrong timing, not changing vvt solenoids, not cleaning gaskets well etc…
It's because most shops don't pay crap. I get 15 an hour and I'm doing things as invasive as this to vehicles. I'm just trying to use this as a jumping off point to a better employer. My boss hates how long I take on stuff but I'm not doing stuff wrong just to ruin my reputation.
@@RejectReality97 Yep, they'll moan and complain that young people don't want to work, failing to realize that they pay worse than McDonalds, with less benefits and YOU are responsible for buying tools which will set you back a grand.
@@RejectReality97I’m a mechanic too you will get there. Often times leaving is the best choice, there are a lot of jobs open for mechanics. I’d recommend a dealership or CarMax for better pay. I work at CarMax currently
@@RejectReality97 Unfortunately, unless you're at a dealership that pays very well, time is money. Even construction work. getting paid by the hour, I was always rushed by bosses to go faster.
Thanks for showing the Ford parts vs. the aftermarket. That made the decision for -- I'm using the Ford kit.
You have the best Ford vehicle videos. They are super informative and well done. You saved me a lot of money on my 2017 Explorer by just doing some maintenance instead of waiting for failure…especially the transfer case. Thank you sir! You have a PhD in Ford repairs.
I followed your videos and did a timing job on my 2010 F-150. I used all OEM parts except the Melling high volume oil pump. It's been almost 15k miles now, I was just starting to be able to sleep at night thinking I must have done okay. After watching this video I'm afraid I'll be waking up with cold sweats again wondering if I torqued everything right and if I got the cam caps back in the right spots and if...
Dammit I hate you! Thanks for the great video and all your help. I know you've saved me thousands.
As much as it hurt, this is why I had the timing job done at Ford on my 2014 Explorer Sport. Some Independent's might say, sure we'll do it, but have done few.
Any competent mechanic should be able to do this job. Some of that shoddy work says hack even though they agreed to use parts that the customer wanted to use.
@@KStewart-th4sk not tightening the crank bolt properly and reusing it ( torque to yield ) is just incompetent and thus their negligence cos the customer t more money because now the crank is compromised.
I did my own timing job using your videos because I knew this could happen to me. I only use my expy for towing my rv now but your videos saved me. It took me a lot of time and I did make some mistakes along the way but nothing serious just a little time. These engines are so resilient I'm just shocked at all the hate they get. Over 300k miles so far..always start always gets me home
They deserve the hate. U confessed to doing a timing job so u r not making sense
I really feel for this customer... I have an 03 2v 4.6L with 292K miles, the timing chain guides started making a hell of a racket during cold starts and would eventually subside when the truck warmed up. But then during warm idle in gear I would lose oil pressure (Timing guide debris was blocking my oil pickup!)
This all happened about 3 weeks after I bought the truck so I decided to replace everything. I used the Cloyes timing set, and a Melling HV pump. But I also took the oil pan down, cleaned everything out, parts of the tensioners were in the pickup tube screen blocking it partially, the rest were in the bottom of the oil pan. If you ever have timing guide failure you MUST pull the pan & pickup tube out to get them clean.
Added bonus... when I was buying this truck from the previous owner he said that he had new heads put on it due to a head gasket failure... I looked and indeed they were new heads, but not new cams, not new timing components... WHY would someone do that!!?? Well I also found out that timing was off on bank 1 by 4 teeth... yes, 4 teeth! I had been chasing down a rich code and THIS was the reason, unfortunately this was too little too late for my passenger Catalytic Converter. God knows how long the previous owner was driving on this.
I've replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets along with the timing cover gaskets and a new crank seal. Also all new coils, spark plugs & Injectors.
Now that all of this is done I don't think I'll have any issues, I also use 5w-30 Mobil 1 full synthetic instead of 5w-20. This Truck has never run so good and been so quiet! All I hear is the Injectors ticking away, I'm Looking forward to another 200K.
I do have plans to build an engine on the side with some work done to it in the meantime though, cores are cheap and I can just start building something to put into it if and when it's not worth fixing the existing engine.
Thanks for everything you do Brian, I know I didn't use all Ford parts on this but I follow all of your procedures and of course I RTFM. 😃
I preemptively did a timing job on my 04 at 153k, following Brian's 4 part series. When I took off the front and valve covers, everything was perfect. I put a pint of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL in at every 5 k change. I did the timing job,melling hv oil pump, new followers and lash adjusters. ONLY USE FORD OEM PARTS. My truck now has 170k, runs like a watch.
You do everything right except for the Marvel Mystery Oil LOL
@@AlanPhillips-g1c well, I'm 77, and I've been using it since I worked in a transmission shop starting at 11 yrs old on the advice of an old timer. Now I'm an old timer, and I still use it in every piece of equipment with an ICE engine I own. I also read a recommendation in American Modeler magazine to use it to winterize my little glow plug engines. My vehicles are a 1994 F150, and a 2004 F150. Both run like swiss watches. So I think I'll keep doing it my way.
@@AlanPhillips-g1c i would agree, do not add contaminants to your engine oil!
Haven't seen you in a while, keep up the good work. Always love watching and learning something new from you
To save money, I almost purchased a aftermarket timing set for my 3v when I rebuilt the engine. Glad I got the Ford set.
That's an ongoing problem for many many years now. Aftermarket parts simply don't have the quality put in them like OEM parts, and consequently that leads to engine destruction. My 06 Nissan Frontier had the two chain tensioners that tighten the small intake cam gears to exhaust cam gears chains wore out and making variable noise as the vehicle accelerated.
Fortunately I got into it before the metal to metal contact could lead to specs of metal inside the engine. Anyway, I hope the customer gets the vehicle fixed correctly and it's back in service soon.
Good one Brian.
When doing this work, what would be the best way to keep the cam parts in the right order? Some kind of soft stamping on the parts or just a magic marker!
I just put a Melling kit on my 2V 6.8, and it came with the iron bodied tensioners.
Your videos for the 2V timing job were a HUGE help!
I can not say with certainity but there is a good chance the customer bought the Melling kit of Amazon and maybe it was a Chinese counterfeit parts kit
Summit Racing
Our shop couldn’t get all the parts at the local Ford dealership. We ended up buying a kit from a Ford dealership through Amazon (all packed up in a large box). The only additional items we ordered through Amazon was the Melling engine oil pump.
I had a Toyota Cloyes timing chain tensioner seize up on me 6 months after I did the repair. Could have crashed the engine. Not worth aftermarket for critical components.
@@FordTechMakulocoI think I saw another TH-camr where they purchased a machined part from Summit that was supposed to have been made from a US company. The customer returned the part to the manufacturer and they found the part was a phony. Be careful
@FordTechMakuloco Not much difference. Bought some Gorilla lug nuts from them to replace the sorry 2 piece ones on my F150, but that's about it.
For heavy duty engine repair, I wouldn't take it anywhere else but your shop.....so sad to see how the mistakes this shop made really cost this guy. Thanks for the integrity with which you work!
4 yrs ago, had a full timing job done per your instructions on my 5.4L 3V 2008 Expedition Limited. (It's a late 01/08 build so part wise it is considered a 2009) I didn't know about upgrading the chain tensioners at that time. I also didn't know about keeping a record of the order of the cam caps but I did the new phasers and VCT components and the Melling Hi Volume oil pump. Few months later, cam caps and cams were chewed up. Had to replace the cams. The cam cap info in today's video is new information for me. I change my oil every 3,000 miles. A few weeks ago, the chain passenger side tensioner failed and it jumped time. It has 235K miles. Before it went down it seems the phasers were locking up (not sure the correct term).
Supposedly no other engine damage occurred when it jumped time and there were no metal flakes in oil. I am the 2nd owner and I know how meticulously I have cared for the truck during the 10 years I have owned it but I am at the point of moving on due to the flawed engine design. I already purchased a new vehicle for my wife. I am debating whether or not to fix this 2008 to keep as a work vehicle. The haul space of an Expedition with flat folded seats is amazing. (Previously it was wife daily driver)
Would you guys move forward with the 2nd timing job? Or I could sell it for approx $2k and walk away?
How do you know it jumped time?
@@majickmeg I looked at the torn down engine in detail with my trusted mechanic who has rebuilt several engines for us. In days prior to this happening, the chain had slack upon start up due to a failed tensioner (bad design, common problem) and the plastic guide broke into peices and small plastic pieces goes under the timing chain causing it to skip 1 or 2 teeth then the plastic debris clogs the oil pick up. Thankfully we turned it off immediately when this happened so no further engine damage occurred. @fordtechmakuloco actually has a detailed video about this exact scenario and shows you in detail of how it happens using a torn down engine that had this same thing happen. This is a very common problem for this particular engine.
If you keep good care of it, I would bring it or ship it to Brian in Illinois for a timing job or new engine. Even at 10k (if you need a new engine) for the work it’s hard to find the value of the Expedition in today’s vehicles with the cost of sensors and such. I have an 2009 limited and really value the analog aspects of it.
@@enterprisar863 great points, yes prices have gone crazy. I like the analog comment bc I have pondered how newer vehicles will function when so much technology fails bc the more tech it has the more things to go wrong
@@gotellhismercy I worked for global automotive OEM on the repair side from 2016-2022. And I got a 1st had look at the ADAS systems (I.e all the modern safety systems) in vehicles. Oh you have a simple water pump to replace but to get to the water pump you have to take off an ADAS sensor, well you now have an ADAS repair because that sensors has to be recalibrated when you put it back on. I’m going to keep my 09 to it falls apart. My next vehicle will likely be 2019 something Toyota. After 2020 the ADAS on vehicles just got to crazy
I just did a cam/rocker replacement on a dodge 3.6. I marked every cam cap with a sharpie so no mixups can occur. The timing system in the 3.6’s seem pretty solid, but the rockers/fillers are pretty common failure point
Thank you for this video ! I guess I’m going to set aside my new Melling parts for the 5.4 2 valve, and try to obtain all Ford for timing set. 1998 Exp.
Love your videos. I do the timing job 4 years ago on my 08 Expedition with your videos. I use only Ford Parts to do this. Cost my round about $800 with shipping, tax and Customs duties to Germany. I found a metalplate on my Engine, that says, it was a original Ford Remanufactured Engine from 2012. And this Engine !!! has !!! bearings on the camshafts.
I have to redo my 2010 mustang 4.6L 3v. I brought the ford performance kit. I should be fine right?
Was just in the game hunting for a used truck and had great luck with my old 96 F150 5.0, got over 300k hard working and off road miles and she still runs good but the truck has too many issues to keep throwing $ at. Had 10k cash and was really wanting a newer Ford but with that little amount of money was such a gamble with these Triton powertrains, some guys get 400k or more miles and some blow up under a 100k. Said to hell with it and bought a Tundra.
Great, this makes me nervous because i just did this job on my truck this past weekend. I used the amazon link from your previous videos to get the parts. I even used the plastic tensioners that you recommended, they look identical to those one from this video.
Got 06 expi, almost got the cloyes kit for 147k timing job, but took a warning from your content. Went all oem and used the link you posted for the kit. Couldn't be more happy now
Always so informational thank you. Have an 07 that needs to be. Gonna have to bite the bullet an take it to the dealer I hope that's the best place to. 🤞
Believe it or not, when I did a phaser job on my 04 Navigator, I discovered that from the factory they forgot that clip installed on the chain tensioner! It wore a little on the cover. Must have been installed on a Friday. I bought the Navigator cheap from a GM dealership, they were convinced the engine was bad. I could hear it needed a timing job. Turned out great with the help of your video series.
Learned about the cam caps🎉😮
Always watch your videos closely, keep up the good work, I'm a fan for sure.
i used a cloyes kit on my 4.6 2v a couple years ago. still running great 10s of thousands of miles later, but i guess we'll see how much longer it lasts lol
I have a 2010 Expedition I bought used a few years ago. No issues with it as of now (149k). Wish I was closer to your shop to get some preventative maintenance done. I really don’t have much faith in shops in my area.
Very good video on diagnosioning each component. Great detective work. Thank you.
Where are all the aftermarket suppliers at? Ask a few companies to join in an give this owner a brand new engine with a few more add ons to the Truck. You'll get more viewership but most importantly a good feeling deep down inside.
so glad i can work on my own vehicles... with the great info you provide
Me and a buddy once did valve lash on his dad's Suzuki Sidekick. Forgot the detail about turning the engine to TDC on each cylinder - we just turned to TDC on cylinder #1 and did them all. After a few seconds of symphony of rockers after startup, we clued in to our mistake. Engine lived for many more years. I wish I could say we were in our teens, but it was much later than that. Oh, and filling a garage and neighborhood with smoke after putting too much oil trying to start a rotary.
I have a 2013 Expedition with high mileage (215K) that had timing chain/rocker arm issues when I got it. I made the common (apparently) mistake of buying a Chinese "kit" to fix it with. Everything was fine for the first 1,000 miles or so, then I started having problems with the Phasers. The driver's side cam kept getting out of phase when it wasn't supposed to. So I replaced that solenoid, didn't fix the problem. The engine is extremely clean. I even dropped the pan when I did the job to make sure it was cleaned out completely.
Moving forward, I decided rather than spend more money on parts and taking it all the way back apart again, I did some research and decided to do a VVT delete on it. I'm aware of the pros and cons, it was my decision and I'm sticking with it. My question to you is this - I know I need to have a tune to disable the VVT logic so that it doesn't turn on the check engine light. Planning to have that done very shortly. However, it runs MUCH better now, but once it gets into a situation where the VVT tries to activate, it feels like it's pulling timing way back. And once the light comes on, it seems to remain in that state. Is this a normal "limp mode" when this malfunction occurs? P0014 & P0024. Just curious.
Thanks for all the videos you post. Its good stuff.
Brian we really appreciate you telling us the truth out there it makes a big difference when we make decisions on fixing our cars with your knowledge thank you
Love your videos. I have repaired three 5.4 3 valve engines where someone had the timing 180 out, One on the left head and 2 on the right head. I was amazed that I was able to repair them. They did not have any valve to piston damage. I did a timing job on a 2010 5.4 where the owner broke the cam, chains and phaser. I was able to repair it with no valve damage. It has 60,000 on the repair. And only spent about $800 in parts. I have done several other timing jobs on almost every ford model. been doing it for 30 years, These engines are not throw away engines they can be repaired. Usually within one day.
Point taken. That being said, I haven't had any problems so far with Cloyes kits but will be mindful going forward. Factory Ford parts are quite a bit more when you put a kit together with various pieces. I wish my local Ford dealers had all of the parts in one box like Cloyes.
This is a great example of the difference between a technician and a parts changer.
I feel bad for the owner. I don't know many people who can afford 10K to fix this mess. Hopefully the other shop will cover it. I doubt it, but maybe they will after receiving some encouragement
Yeah and in the rust belt putting $10K into an older vehicle is not feasible anyway as the body will rot off before a new engine wears out. At least if he takes them to court he'll have a nice video showing all of the faults!
The other shop should pay 100% of the replacement cost. 10k is enough to go to court over.
Just aweful! I can hear the disgust in your voice. Thanks for sharing. You are the real Ford Boss!
Watching from Yosemite Kentucky.
Watching from Taylorsville Ky
Watching from earth. Third rock from the sun.
Watching from
The chain I absolutely see it the ford chain is made with flat links the melling it rounded it would definitely make sense it would ware out guides. Your videos are so informative I will tell you this my 08 expedition is nearing 250k is under boost and I’m has never been opened up for internal work. I will eventually do the lash adjusters and rollers but until I hear or notice a vct issue it’s staying the way it came.
I do my own maintenance religiously and I also do all my own calibration work this maybe why I have had such good luck with my truck.
I always number my cam caps if they are ever pulled for motors I work on.
You can’t mix them up because if I’m not mistaken the cam bores are line honed after a head is built and each cap belongs to it specifically tower.
I have a beautiful Truck took care of it 5.4 all the stuff you’re talking about is happening. I wish I could find someone like you to replace some parts.
I did phaser lockout outs and ecu programming from Drag Radial Performance on my 2010 with 205k. Best running truck I've ever had since. Super quiet and way more power.
How did you do the phaser lock out ? Mine runs good just loud as a F250 diesel 😢
Excellent review of what to do wrong. Thank you for the video.
It's funny you mentioned the tensioner being hard to push. On our 2010 5.4 that's missing like crazy brand new oem set the bank 1 tensioner wont push in like that and no milage on them the bank 2 is fine but it's missing on bank 1 so wondering if ford will exchange them they have since changed the oem set I bought right after I bought it
I remember speaking with gentleman. He was dropping his truck off at Brian's while I was picking my Explorer up from there. Darn shame; his Expedition looked really clean.
Thanks for all you videos on the 5.4 3v
Good to know for anyone that has one or needs maintenance.
With that said I have 2012 Ford Escape 3.0 v6 front wheel drive. I have ~175k Would love to have a 5 min. chat with you about it, no major issues, just want to know whether to keep it or upgrade it. I have a spreadsheet of my own repairs/maint. done thanks to your video series on these. Thanks.
What is your opinion on whether to use the synthetic blend or a full synthetic like mobile one on the 5.4L 3 valve. Mine is a 2014 with 170,000 miles
No one in my Neck of the Woods likes to work on these 5.4 Triton Engines, my neighbor who has been a mechanic for 40 years at local Chevy/Toyota Dealership changed plugs on my truck at 100,000, he soaked the plugs threads down overnight with penetrating oil and eased all the plugs out with manual socket set, didn't break any plugs, he has done several since then the same way--all good results...
When I do the timing sets I use only Ford parts but I opt for the mechanical tensioners vs the oil ones I believe it's a 2000 4.6 model tensioner no more blow outs and I swap the oil pump for high volume
Wish you were closer to me.....I just turned 199,000 miles on my 08 KR coming back to Ga. from Maine....no noises truck runs like a dream.....but I looking for a good tech to do it with my parts.....
Good morning. Is there a good way to tell if I for sure need a timing job if the vehicle isn't running? I have a 2012 expedition with the 5.4. It just stopped going down the road. i have fuel to the rail and replaced the cam sensors as that code is showing up in forscan. I haven’t been able to get it to start since. I sure appreciate the knowledge you share in your videos.
Can the journal caps be turned 180°? If not, what markings indicate proper installation?
I got an 05 F-150 with a 5.4 Triton in it I haven't had any major problems with the motor not one I got 320,000 on it I've rebuilt the front end now I need to replace the bed other than that I love the truck
The Melling service grade kits come with the cast iron tensioners and a Chain that looks identical to a ford OEM chain, Made in USA to boot, the Crank gear also is alot more quality than their cheaper kits!
So use the metal chain tensioner?
This is a little off-topic, but kind of applies. My 3.5 EB has 225,000 km (138,000 miles). Started leaking about a year ago. As an AME, I'm used to stuff that goes 'round and 'round - so quickly diagnosed a rear-main oil seal leak. Got 3 estimates from Ford service depts, anywhere from $1,500 to $2,500. Went with a local shop that out-bid the dealers. OK, paid $700 got the leak "fixed". Two weeks later, it starts leaking. Shop blows me off - "ah, just monitor it...". Yeah right. Replacing the valve-cover really helped (heat-cycled gasket had hardened and cracked). Still leaking. Took it to my local Ford service dept and the tech confirmed - rear main seal is leaking. I'm getting he dealer to do the repair. It'll cost me almost $2,000, but it'll get fixed. Which saves me $70,000+ for a new truck. Moral of the story - if it seems too good to be true, it probably is. Shoulda gone to the dealer about a year ago.
You probably paid 700 just for them to spray it off
So the only aftermarket part you recommend is the melling hv360 everything else OEM.
He does have other video's that go into details on the whole job, and they are fairly concise. Definitely not a job for the average "shadetree mechanic".
@@Internutt2023 I’ve watched them but I’ve always been informed that melling and cloyes make the parts for ford, so it’s crazy to see how bad the parts are if they actually do manufacture them for ford, except the oil pump is the only good aftermarket part from them.
I prefer the M340HV for the 3V, because it keeps the same maximum oil pressure, only brings up the minimum oil pressure. The M340HV was specifically designed for the 3V, the 360HV works well too, but it was designed for either the 2 or the 4V variant, I'm not sure.
I hope the shop makes it right for the guy.
I can see a lawsuit in the future.
I have an 06 F150 with 5.4. I would love to put a 4.6 or older 5.0. Got any suggestions?
Thanks for all that you show us and for doing jobs the way they should be done.
I have an 07 5.4L F-150 with 183k miles. Engine has never quit on me but there is a loud ticking noise coming from it and it’s been there a long time. What could it be?
Follower? Tensioner?
@@tongtongwang Ended up just being an exhaust manifold leak lol. Ford dealer said timing components and wanted to put in a new engine 😂
Is it realistic to get the camshaft journals line bored and bearing caps installed to fix the excessive wear in the cylinder heads? Can’t decide if I should do that or just get remanned heads.
Frankly I’ll admit I did my own timing job recently and 100% mixed up the caps due to my own stupidity and getting too ahead of myself. I now have the engine fully out and am deciding on my next step. I did not run it for long like that but the grooves do catch my nails.
Just get new heads lol
What kit would you suggest buying?
Any recommendations on brands for roller followers with smaller oiling ports? Having a hard time finding them. Thanks
Here- amzn.to/3Z8HQBp
What town Illinois are you located in ?@@FordTechMakuloco
I am going to get into my mustangs timing system it’s a 4.6. I am considering the cast iron tensioners and the melling HV oil pump. Will only go with the Ford performance timing chains. What are your thoughts on the combo?
is there a oil restrictor in the block going to the right side head?
If you can't find a good shop like Maculoco, then just watch his videos and do it yourself... It will save you thousands
The confusion with Melling is due to them selling different grades. Theres a “service” grade and “professional” grade. I contacted Melling about the difference between the two. According to them the service grade is mostly import parts while the professional line is mostly US made (Ford OE) parts. But they didnt specify which parts were what. I just installed their professional grade with iron tensioners, Ford phasers/solenoids and Ford camshafts a couple months ago. Runs fantastic on an engine with 179k. Ive also used Melling on my 4.6 2v and its got 70k on it that kit. Not a single hiccup. Not all Melling stuff is junk. You need to do your own research though.
So how did you know you got professional grade?
@@firstlast--- theyre listed as such on rockauto
@@alans.7733 is that what the s means at the end of the part number?
I did the same for my 3.5 Ecoboost. I ordered the professional timing kit from Melling through O’Reilly. It was chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket. Every single part had the Ford Motorcraft part number rubbed off with what looked like a dremel. Held up next to the OEM parts, they were exactly the same, just with a literally rubbed off FoMoCo part number. I used OEM phasers, but in the case of my Ecoboost, Melling seems to be supplier of the Motorcraft parts. There were zero casting issues or differences between what I removed from my engine.
@@beatachevy289 that was my hunch. Melling would do good to reach out and clarify all this with Brian. They’d sure sell a lot more kits by doing that.
For 04-08 5.4 3v owners
I always put in 7 quarts but usually only get out 5 after draining the oil. That’s after adding one extra qt at 2,500 and changing at around 5000 miles. Semi synthetic 5w30. Truck has 240,000 miles & runs great
Also trans fluid has never been changed is it worth doing?
What's the torque for the aluminum clamps on the camshaft please
89 inch lbs
On the 5.4 I rebuild the bottom but my cams lobe key got worn out so am thinking of get new heads for it. What's your thoughts on new heads for this engine?
Love your videos.
I'm looking for new/rebuild engine for my 2011 E-350 van. Do you have a recommendation of quality and trustworthy places I can purchase from?
Tired of half ass rebuilds.
Let me know please if you don't mind.
Thanks
I guess i did ok on mine thanks to you.
Original failed at 90k. I Re built per your older videos. At 145k now. And there is a tick on startup that goes away after about 15-30 seconds.
But it has been doing that for well over 10k. So not too worried at the moment. Unless you say i should worry about it😬
id be willing to bet its a cracked/leaking exhaust manifold!
Great video! You said something at the end of the video that caught my attention. You mentioned dying at stop signs. I have a 2011 F150 EB that I did the timing chain, phasers, etc using your videos as my guide in 2020. Recently, while towing, I'll come to a stoplight and the engine will shudder and die. If I powerbrake at the light, it will stay running. I wonder if I should change from 5w30 to 5w40. Vehicle sees towing service only.
Idle relearn after cleaning the throttle body.
Just did total rebuild on this engine. It’s a beast to rebuild but I got it bored 20 over and changed $4000 dollars worth of parts. It can be done but you have to check your parts.
I have a question, i have 2010 f150 crew lariat 120k miles did the timing chain as you have instructed. changed the rollers etc double checked all points and bolts. i ran my finger over the driver side chain and very little wiggle, but the passenger side has visible slack about 1/4 inch side to side... is this normal ?
Do you have any experience with e fan conversions? I'm going to put one on my 2005 f250 with the 5.4l 3v.
Where you located at brother? I’ve got a 2006 f250 with a 5.4 and a zf6 in it, she needs a timing set bad and I have absolutely no time to fool with it. My home garage can’t accommodate the length of my truck and still have room to work. I’d love to have you take care of it and have peace of mind knowing it was done right. TIA
The Ford store on Amazon gave me the plastic tensioners, can we demand the steel? Thank you
The updated ford plastic ones are better. They’re non ratcheting unlike the cast iron ones. Makuloco recommends staying with the updated oem plastic versions. The ratcheting ones are known to stretch chains out
Know of any ways to keep mechanics honest? I've spent $1800 in recommended ford parts on this Timing/Rocker Arm Lash Kit, Oil Pump Upgrade and water pump to boot. I don't trust very many mechanics anymore, except Makuloco but he lives on the other side of the country.
You are correct as usual! Ive seen the best work and advice on your vids over the years! My Ford makes me loco. But, happy to have a go to place to keep it goin! Now, a video on fuel sending unit 2012 f-250 gasser? 😂
Does Ford still make available the timing chains, guides and tensioners for the 4.6L 2V? I purchased a Cloyes kit last time I did one. I find a similar issue with clutch kits, they all come with junk throw out bearings. I just replaced my clutch Mcleod and didn’t use the bearing supplied with the kit. I bought a Ford Performance bearing and clutch cable.
Have you updated your timing Ford OEM timing system links?
I recently did this job and used all ford oem parts except the timing chains and oil pump which are Melling, I have the ford updated tensioners installed, should I replace the Melling chain with the ford oem ones? Kinda scared of the Melling chains after hearing that they have broken before
Just to clarify, you saying they put cheap aftermarket roller followers with smaller oil holes ? or you saying they did not replace the new ford model factory oem roller followers that now have smaller holes in them ?
I bought a 2017 ford explorer police vehicle and have to change the PTU. I`ve been watching this creator's videos. Sadly, mine while it's working it is leaking fluid, the seals are shot. I have ALLDATA DIY so I'm looking up all the parts and so forth. Mine has the oil cooler which adds another variable because you either need to cap the pipes when removed really quick, or you drain the coolant.
1) Can the heads and caps be line bored to accept a bearing shell? 2) Why don't shops engrave those caps to ensure proper placement? 3) Is a 5K oil change interval OK for a 2013 Expy? 4) Will an oil test at Blackstone reveal damage like this?
Yes they can align bore to accept bearing as almost all engine remanufacturers do.