How to Build a Ford 5.4L 3V Engine - Part 7: Timing Set and Camshafts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2023
- Today we continue our "How to Build a Ford 5.4L 3V" series sponsored by @SummitRacing In this video I show you exactly how to put on the timing set and camshafts. This is a very easy thing to get mixed up on and something that has to be exactly right. If you have an questions please leave them below and I will answer it. Thank you so much for watching!
Camshaft Tower Bolts: www.summitracing.com/parts/AR...
Timing Set: amzn.to/46kHdVi
Vct Control Solenoid: amzn.to/47GKNKs
Gasket Set: www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...
Timing Set Tools: amzn.to/46t6tsm
Torque Wrench w/Angle: amzn.to/40WIwsr
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So I was mistaken when I said the Cam Tower bolts are TTY. They are reusable just torque to 89 inch pounds in sequence. But I do recommend the ARP ones because they are so good! Thanks for watching!
Where I can find the engine block cam caps?
@@joseaguilar3978those are lined bored when engine is new. You cannot just buy new ones. They would to be machined.
Another great episode! Can’t wait to see this dropped back in your truck and running. Keep ‘‘em coming!
Thank you for watching! Coming soon!
Best engine rebuild video ive seen to date. Keep up the good work. Awesome instructions. One question tho. Roughly how much would a job like this cost. (Parts and machine shop etc...) i think in part 4 you mentioned listing the prices. But i think i missed it that part.
Such a great series! Keep them coming!
Ryan, your remark about the cam cap bolts being TTY and therefore junk was something I had not heard. Having recently done the timing on my 4.6L 3V, which has the same heads as this one, and having done so with replacement TTY phaser bolt and an ARP crank pulley bolt (because stock is also TTY), but having kept and reused the cam cap bolts, I was a slight bit afeared I'd messed up with this new information.
So I went a-huntin', and I read the 'LH Camshaft Replacement' section in the Ford repair manual for the Mustang. And nowhere does it say to discard the bolts, as it does for the TTY phaser bolt. Others in other sites have said simliar: cap bolts are reusable. I'm fairly certain the 5.4 3V would be the same if I had a hold of that book?
That's not to say that on a brand new build like this I wouldn't recommend ARP for all the things, so I whole heartedly approve for sure, but I just thought I'd run that by ya and see what you had for thoughts. Thanks for what you're doing, very much enjoying the series on this rebuild!
I have read that they are TTY on some sites and on others it's just 89 inch pounds so not TTY. I just looked up the Ford service resource and it just says 89 inch pounds so that is the resource I would trust. I believe you are right and the stock bolts are most likely fine to use again. I will leave a pinned comment to correct myself.
Thanks for watching!
Great job on this video really well explained well shot and very very clear thank you
Thanks so much for watching!
1st off, love your video series on the motor builds.
Would love to see you guys do a 5.7 hemi build. Keep the videos coming
Thanks so much!
I would love to do one too!
@@2carpros I have a 2019 charger pursuit awd with the 5.7. It doesn't have the dreaded tick yet. Would love to see a take on a rebuild where maybe it would take care of the lifter problem and some performance options
Show the whole process to finish, running in the truck,very informative
I do. Thanks for watching!
Is there an specific reason you didn't installed the cam followers before the camshaft, did you installed them after?
The Ford factory service manual reinstalls followers after the timing chain and tensioners are installed using the special tool. Would you rotate the crankshaft keyway from 11 to 12 or 6 before reinstalling the followers to neutralize potential interference? Instead of reinstalling followers using the special tool one by one, could you carefullly loosen the cam caps and slide them under and then torque the caps?
When timing aren’t you supposed to turn crank clock wise instead of of turning it back to the left like you did and what position are the piston locations because you don’t want valve meating piston
the cam with the longer snout goes on the side that requires a shorter one?
Hi a have question I did all the timing change and before I put the timing cover i turn my crank shaft to see my marks still line up but they r not I guess my question is I shouldn’t turn the crank it all after doing the timing change
Great Job
Just wanted to get it right because I’m doing my 4.6 L three valve. I’m doing the timing I’m doing the heads so I want to get it right
I've seen in there that you rotated the engine counter. Clockwise, aren't you supposed to rotate it clockwise always just an observation. , but very good information
Only if you are worried about the crank bolt coming out, which I wasn't. I just needed it to turn back a tiny amount anyhow. But if you are concerned about that feel free to rotate it all the way around clockwise. Thanks for watching!
I just did mine on my f250 and now I got the p0345 p0349 and from what I know I'm off by 1 tooth so how do I go back an reset the timing on bank 2 1 tooth again. It runs amazing but the check engine light keeps coming on after I changed the cam sensor an the pigtail. What do I do?
@carpros can you do a tear down and rebuild for a coyote motor?? Please 🙏🏾 😊
If I had the money I would! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros thanks for responding I just want to tell you thank you, I watched your 302/347 stroker engine break down and rebuild and I didn’t realize building a short block isn’t that bad ..your video really boosted my confidence in doing the assembly myself for my 92 foxbody..also I have a 2008 4.6 mustang and was wondering is the assembly process the same as in the 5.4 video you did? Thanks again
Ryan, is this procedure the same with the Ford 4.6 3V year 2006?
Yeah it is basically the same engine but a bit smaller. There is some parts that are specific to the 4.6 so I wouldn't use every link blindly, just verify that they fit the 4.6 before you order. But the process is the same as I understand it, probably different torque specs though so I'd look those up too. Thanks for watching!
Ok I’m confused because you say have the line up at 12 o’clock but fordtechmakeuloco says have it at 6 o’clock so can you explain why you two have a different answer? And also just because it’s at 6 or 12 shouldn’t it be at tdc on cylinder 1 and how do you know it’s at tdc on cylinder one just because the key way is positioned right? Because the crankshaft doesn’t rotate at the same rate as the camshaft so you can have multiple revolutions to 6 or 12 before a specific cylinder is at tdc
I haven't watched his video so I can't comment. All I know is I followed what Ford says to do and my truck runs without issue so I did it right. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I watched it incorrectly he was just saying put it at 12 o’clock to remove the first 6 roller followers then put it at 6 o’clock to remove the rest of them. And on reinstall do the same I love your build series and it’s great to watch! Also what is you opinion on aftermarket timing kits such as melling?
I could've wrong but left side phaser is not the passanger side?
It is from the perspective of the driver's seat, so from behind the engine the driver's side would be the left bank. I know confusing. Thanks for watching!
Keyway goes at 12 or 11 o’clock?
Get timing tool auto parts loan them
Even a 5-year-old child can install those timing chains because they have very clear markings and no one is going to make a mistake, but what is worth worrying about is if you don't mount the tensioner guides where they go, you will have to check the engine litgh. I won't explain. something that not everyone knows, and that is that the tensioner guides are not the same, one is thicker than the other, one is right and the other is left and they are not marked
Right which is why I pointed out which one goes where. Thanks for watching!
I never seen that , installing those cam caps studs by hand only with silicon , without torquing them .
Every single stud I have ever installed instructions have always told me to install with hand tight only. Then torque the nuts. Thanks for watching!
I mean, you could have your crankshaft 360° out of phase.
360 out of phase? Then it would be correct. Do you mean 180 out of phase? And that isn't possible with the timing marks where I left them. The truck started up and works great so it is correct. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros lol yeah. 360° out of phase is only possible when the timing system is already assembled.
Why did you put the entire timing set together without the roller followers in?
You’re gonna have to take all that back apart to put them under the cams.
That’s why you have so much free play and the cams just spin about all freely.
Nope. You have to put the cams in first then the roller followers. There is a special tool that pushes down on the valve so you can get the roller follower in. Thanks for watching!
I am wondering the same thing ??
So the timing can't be properly done with followers already installed under the cam?
One you are time and you never did say nothing about top completion stroke.
As long as all the marks line up it is timed. It would be at TDC on compression. Thanks for watching!
Why use the old shitty plastic tensioners that cause alot of problems. Should of used the cast iron ones
Those are for the 2v not the 3v and can also cause problems check this video from Brian th-cam.com/video/mVXx8pVYc1c/w-d-xo.html
I am concerned confused if you put the crank straight up. I have a tool that holds crank in place while you do the top end timing it is at 11:00 O'clock.