We have some 'How To' videos coming up soon. I likely will not mold a medallion, because I have no need for one. However, I have a photomontage sequence of molding ornamental stepping stones which would be very comparable. Thank you for commenting... and please stay in touch. Michael
@@ShapeShifters-TVthank you, as an interested viewer rather than someone with skin in the game, seeing how the simpler things are done is always interesting. I’ll def keep on watching
Walking to California... I forgot I said that! Actually, my wife and I are working on a plan to move to California. Got my eye on land in Sonoma Valley. :) Glad you are enjoying the videos... so many more to come. Cheers, Michael
Thanks for another insight into mold-making, Michael. What kind of pigment would you use to tint silicone? Would you mix into the catalyser first and then mix it into the silicone component?
I always used powdered red iron oxide. You don't need much (a couple pinches for small batches) and it can be added after you add the catalyst and begin mixing. It will not effect the cure. Also, to change the color between layers, just add a bit more of the same iron oxide. Although the same pigment, the color tone change will be enough for you to see differences between layers. After a darker layer, just pull back or don't use the oxide. Dark, light, dark, light works just the same as adding a bunch of different colors. Happy Casting! Michael
I forget the chemical name of it... but it was always called 'silicone thinner'. Same thinner will work for Tin or Platinum Cured. If it is a mold that you are going to keep for awhile, stay below 10% weight. I only added that amount when I was cutting the viscosity to integrate recycled material. 5% will help the flow substantially. Run a few tests. Heads up... The molds with thinner will give off oil as they sit over time. Cheers, Michael
@@ShapeShifters-TV I've looked up a big brand name's silicone thinner. Seems to be plain silicone oil. Of course nobody would tell you if it was. But being in the 10% max range seems to fit the bill. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, it's highly appreciated!
@@MrSubstanz understood! Less than 10% if you are starting w a low durometer...shore A 30 or lower. I used when recycling regrind or softening shoreA 50s
@@pułkownikkaczodziobyzpodlasia Waxes are perfectly fine. And...Vaseline can be thinned to a liquid using a heat gun....but it is easy to apply too much if your not paying attention. Be sure to remove excess and don't let it pool in detailed areas. Light application...
Hi Michael, how do you normally shred silicone or urethane for re-using? I normally use urethane for my mother molds. At first I used to chop and cut up molds that I no longer used but it was such a pain in the ass to chop them and cut them up that I just stopped doing it.
It's a total pain in the arse....I cheat...bought an industrial Grinder. Beast mode. I don't use it anymore after we bought metered dispensering eq. No waste with those. If you can ebay an electric meat Grinder, that would likely work. Otherwise it's hand chunking which is only good for small DIY
I assume that took days, if not weeks of intensive work to complete. I could print it in less than 5 hours while sunbathing in my pool. Also, mine would look better and be far less fragile. Try to keep up with technology.
I’d love to see a video of you making a similar mold with your techniques for comparison
We have some 'How To' videos coming up soon. I likely will not mold a medallion, because I have no need for one. However, I have a photomontage sequence of molding ornamental stepping stones which would be very comparable. Thank you for commenting... and please stay in touch. Michael
@@ShapeShifters-TVthank you, as an interested viewer rather than someone with skin in the game, seeing how the simpler things are done is always interesting. I’ll def keep on watching
I laughed at the comment about walking to California. I'm thinking, if you do, come visit! Love the videos. I am learning as I watch.
Walking to California... I forgot I said that! Actually, my wife and I are working on a plan to move to California. Got my eye on land in Sonoma Valley. :)
Glad you are enjoying the videos... so many more to come.
Cheers, Michael
Thanks for another insight into mold-making, Michael. What kind of pigment would you use to tint silicone? Would you mix into the catalyser first and then mix it into the silicone component?
I always used powdered red iron oxide. You don't need much (a couple pinches for small batches) and it can be added after you add the catalyst and begin mixing. It will not effect the cure. Also, to change the color between layers, just add a bit more of the same iron oxide. Although the same pigment, the color tone change will be enough for you to see differences between layers. After a darker layer, just pull back or don't use the oxide. Dark, light, dark, light works just the same as adding a bunch of different colors. Happy Casting! Michael
19:15 what do you use as a thinning agent for silicone; naphtha, silicone oil?
I forget the chemical name of it... but it was always called 'silicone thinner'. Same thinner will work for Tin or Platinum Cured. If it is a mold that you are going to keep for awhile, stay below 10% weight. I only added that amount when I was cutting the viscosity to integrate recycled material. 5% will help the flow substantially. Run a few tests. Heads up... The molds with thinner will give off oil as they sit over time. Cheers, Michael
@@ShapeShifters-TV I've looked up a big brand name's silicone thinner. Seems to be plain silicone oil. Of course nobody would tell you if it was. But being in the 10% max range seems to fit the bill.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, it's highly appreciated!
@@MrSubstanz understood! Less than 10% if you are starting w a low durometer...shore A 30 or lower. I used when recycling regrind or softening shoreA 50s
I really like beeswax or dish soap as mold release, though I often don’t use any, but I wonder how thin you could get vaseline?
@@pułkownikkaczodziobyzpodlasia
Waxes are perfectly fine.
And...Vaseline can be thinned to a liquid using a heat gun....but it is easy to apply too much if your not paying attention. Be sure to remove excess and don't let it pool in detailed areas. Light application...
Hi Michael, how do you normally shred silicone or urethane for re-using? I normally use urethane for my mother molds. At first I used to chop and cut up molds that I no longer used but it was such a pain in the ass to chop them and cut them up that I just stopped doing it.
It's a total pain in the arse....I cheat...bought an industrial Grinder. Beast mode. I don't use it anymore after we bought metered dispensering eq. No waste with those. If you can ebay an electric meat Grinder, that would likely work. Otherwise it's hand chunking which is only good for small DIY
@@ShapeShifters-TV Thanks!
Just FYI, the "glove" was urethane, not silicone. That explains some of the differences.
Yes, exactly. I caught that late and put a note in the description before uploading . You get the eagle eye award!
I assume that took days, if not weeks of intensive work to complete. I could print it in less than 5 hours while sunbathing in my pool. Also, mine would look better and be far less fragile. Try to keep up with technology.
I own a precision tooling shop and travel in both worlds. Thanks for tuning in. Cheers, M